They didn't want to get wet-couldn't resist. FYI my honda dealer charges $80 to hook up his code reader-takes maybe 2 minutes. Wow AZ for free be a good deal even if u have to wait till dry weather.
Never mind - it was BS. I went to another Auto Zone in the area and they scanned the code, free and in the rain. Lo and behold, it came up with a P0773 for E-shift solenoid! Something the dealership said they had replaced! Now on Monday they want me to pay for something not covered under warranty.
I am living proof that you have to watch out for these dealerships, especially if you're a woman. They obviously thought I was too stupid to figure this out myself. Monday, they will rue the day they ever met me.
one of the heavy-duty mechanics should cogitate this first and post. the error codes do N O T say, "E666 - dead sensor, replace immediately," they identify issues in the system(s) related TO the part they can talk to. in other words, it's not a "replace this immediately!" warning. the proper response is to get out the diagnostic test tree of things to check for that error code and doing all the tests in the order prescribed will lead a tech to an error condition or a most-likely-faulty part.
now, the mechanic at the dealership might not have done that, just plugged a part and gone home, but let's have one of the online experts like alcan or 0patience do his usual fine and welcome volunteer act, look up the code and the tree for the car, and advise further.
then, if you have good reason to tear a strip off, you will have some solid extra facts to print off and take in with you.
But will post it here also, for everyone elses benefit.
The shift solenoid valve SL is turned ON and OFF by signals from the ECM to control the hydraulic pressure acting on the lock-up relay valve, which then controls operation of the lock-up clutch. Fail safe function If the ECM detects a malfunction, it turns the shift solenoid valve SL OFF.
Possible causes: Faulty ECM Fautly Shift solenoid valve SL Open or short in the shift solenoid valve circuit.
Since they supposedly replaced the shift solenoid valve, then it is likely that there is a problem with the circuit for the shift solenoid. My question is, why did they replace the shift solenoid valve?
I tightenend up the gas cap, figuring that would be the likely culprit. The light now remains on but I wonder if it would take a certain number of restarts before it would reset itself? I couldn't see anything obviuosly wrong with the gas cap, but I had this problem before on both a chevy and a honda.
Do you think I should try purchasing a new gas cap??
I have scheduled the car to go in for service on Tuesday. I have a very nice and good private mechanic close to my home (a true blessing). I'll keep everyone informed.
Although the gas cap is the most common cause, I'd hold off until your mechanic has a chance to look at it. And you're right about a given number of drive cycles required to turn off the CEL if the fault's no longer present. The fault code will remain in the computer's memory, though. Let us know what he finds.
I own a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1L 45,000 kms. The Check Engine light came on under code P1404 for the EGR valve. The GM dealership said this is a common recent problem in GM vehicles (such as Montana) that will cause the PCM to fall out of calibration and trigger false codes. Therefore, they re-flashed the PCM and made the light dissapear.
I wondered if they'd just changed the trigger range so the light wouldn't come on that easily. GM says they trust their factory trained techs and advised me to contact the dealership, which I did, they offered the "out-of-calibration" explanation. Montanafan directed me (thanx) to this site http://calid.gm.com/vci/ where you can check Part numbers (that's like software versions) and Calibration ID's.
The help page says:
"The last line of each table indicates the latest part number issued for your vehicle....
In addition to the information in these tables, you also need to know the calibration ID(s) and Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) currently contained in your vehicle to determine if there is a later calibration available. Service scan tools have the capability to read calibration ID and CVN values from the vehicle controller...."
There is a blank space after the word PART# on my work order, although THERE IS an 8-digit part# printed for a door clip they replaced the same day, so I'm going to have a little Monday morning conversation with them ;-) Thanks.
0patience - thanks for your input as always. I went into the dealership stating my case this morning. Miraculously and without stuttering, the advisor knew exactly what code I was speaking of, and explained why it may be there. (Amazing that he pretended he was clueless when I asked him for the code last week, isn't it?) Anyway, he explained that there may be faulty wiring in association with the solenoid, which sounds like the third cause you listed. I don't know if you know anything about Toyota warranties, but would you know why if a shift solenoid is covered 5-year/60K miles, then why would its wiring only be covered 3-year/36K? I still feel like I'm getting cheated somehow.
I realize that much of your questioning the motivation behind your Toyota dealer's attitude may well be rhetorical, with the intent of shining some light on all too common poor behavior in the industry. It is my understanding that among the various corporations offering motor vehicles for sale in America, those that are identifiable as exclusively offering foreign brand names are the worst at customer satisfaction. I further understand that the trend analysis shows the greater the market share, the greater the potential for customer dissatisfaction. These factors are chiefly responsible for my seeking ways to avoid those brands when shopping for new vehicles. Your current experience may push you in this direction for the future, as well. Good luck and keep us informed. We all "need to know."
No, actually my questions weren't necessarily rhetorical because I'll admit I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to mechanical issues. But I do make every effort, as I am now, to become more learned and well-informed about the problem at hand. What I seem to encounter is that (and I may be just paranoid here, but...) when they see a young woman come in, especially without a man by her side, service reps tend to patronize and act as if she has no clue. So I went on this website and to Autozone to prove them wrong. I notice that when I walked in with the trouble code on a piece of paper, I was given a more detailed and explanatory response than I had received in the past visits.
Concerning the origin of the make, I agree wholeheartedly that the level of quality and customer satisfaction is the same, if not worse, with foreign cars. I love my Solara and have had no other issues/problems aside from this, but I'll tell you - I had a '91 Pontiac Sunbird before this car, and even though the cars are hardly comparable, I loved that car just as much and, aside from a faulty speedometer, never had any major problems with it at all. I think "American" cars get a bad rap. And that is pointless anyway, when it seems 75% of a so-called foreign car is made in the U.S. I would go back to a Pontiac any day.
Good post-several years ago I saw a customer satisfaction with dealer article I believe in CR and it had Honda and Toyota at the bottom of the list. So if the dealer with a product that has a lot of demand can get away with treating the customer poorly-he will do it-human nature.
I am in the med systems business and you talk about arrogance-there are some companies out here that think they have exclusive products and the way they treat their clients-oh it is goood to be able to evict those arrogant people.
Yeah as a Honda owner, I would like to have an Ami made option but IMHO-it ain't out there yet.
FYI to those interested: My car was amazingly returned the same night, so I can tell you what happened. The correction listed on the invoice said "Tech rewired and replaced connector for ECU to trans solenoid".
The good news is that it didn't cost nearly as much as I expected--only $164. Maybe I shouldn't say this until I wait a while, but the dealership was actually quite courteous to me today, the technician supposedly sympathized and stayed late to fix this, and therefore I wasn't forced into getting a rental, plus I think he knocked a few dollars off the bill. Sure, maybe it's BS, but my soft side almost feels bad for ragging on them here so much.
Thanks for your help, guys! Hopefully I won't have to come back here with a negative follow-up.
My 91 Honda CRX-DX auto trans.w/163k won't start. I have proper timing based on camshaft alignment and TDC at #1 cylinder, spark, fuel pressure & fuel to cylinders but all it does is crank. I am at a loss as to what the problem is. It started like this..... Car sat for 3 days, started it to move out of way, moved it 20 feet and shut it off, went out next day and all it did was crank. I tried spraying ether while cranking and still no start. I installed new plugs thinking that was it (old only had 30k on them) but to no avail. I pulled #1 plug and reconnected to wire to check spark, all OK, in fact you should see the flame shoot out of the cylinder while cranking with plug over top of hole, so I know I'm getting fuel to cylinder. The distributor was replaced at Honda dealership 18k ago, new alternator & battery 7k ago, new fuel filter & fuel pump 30k ago, new timing belt & water pump 42k ago. HELP if you can PLEASE !!!!!!! I dread having to take it back to Honda dealer since last time there they replaced distributor but never checked timing and had to bring it back because it was pinging so bad, got their typical response "it was within spec but we readjusted"
Man, the one vehicle I am clueless on. I'll try and get you in an area, but to be honest. This is one for one of the guys who are familiar with Hondas. Hondadude and Mr Donut (hey, they chose their names) are probably the best Honda guys. Click on my profile and go to Imports.
Anyway, first thing we need to do is confirm compression on all cylinders. Next, Pull out the ignition timing adjusting connector located right under dash and connect the BRN and GRN / WHT terminals with a jumper wire. Connect a timing light to the No.1 plug wire; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover. Adjust ignition timing, if necessary. Standard model: 18°±2°BTDC (RED) at 750±50 rpm in neutral Adjust if necessary by loosening the distributor adjusting bolts, and turn the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard the timing. Tighten the adjusting bolts and recheck the timing. Remove the jumper wire to the ignition timing adjusting connector.
If the timing is close, then there may be a fuel problem. Whether it is fuel quality or fuel pressure, that needs to be determined. There are some tests that you can perform with a DVOM to check the injector resistance.
Fuel filter was done along with the fuel pump 30k ago. I'd love to check timing with the light but I can't get it started to do so. I failed to mention that I did have a friend move distributor while I was cranking to see if it made any difference, it didn't. (Yes I marked it before I moved it) This is very frustrating and I'm totally bewildered. I was going to check cylinder compression but have to get a different tester since mine is to short to fit down inside valve cover. I'll try posting this on the board you mentioned. Thanks
Doesn't need to be running to check it with a light. Someone will have to crank it over while you try and check the timing. Remember to only crank for a little at a time, let the starter rest for a while before cranking again, to prevent the starter burning up.
I had posted previously about the check engine light returning to my Jetta after the dealer had cleared it when my wife brought it in about a month ago. Well it went away this morning after a long drive in to work. I was scheduled to return to the dealer on monday for them to have another look at it. I have 2 questions for the folks here 1. Is it pointless to keep this appointment now that there is no longer a light? 2. The vehicle has to have the gov't emissions test done before the end of the month. I don't want to run the risk of it failing, could the check engine be related to emissions from the vehicle.
I agree with Alcan. One thing to add, Alcan knows more about the Canadian emissions than I do, so he might be able to confirm, but I think if an emissions code is present when you go to get the emissions test done, they may fail you, whether the light is on or not. Hopefully, Alcan can confirm if that is so or not.
1) Yes, I had taken my car in several times where the light was off, on the dealership's request; they said they didn't care if it was on or off. But I believe that's because it is only necessary for the light to be on in order to retrieve the trouble code(s). As long as they know what the codes are, they should still check it.
2) As the others have said, I've read many postings in the past month of people who have had their check engine light on for emissions problems. I'm sure if you do a search for that subject in this message board, you'll find answers.
Well, I got my Chrysler 300M into my mechanic earlier this week. They did a "complete" check and were unable to find any problem which would explain the light coming on. They reset the light and told me to bring it back in if it came back on.
My mechanic told me that some of these check engine light faults are quite specific and complicated. He told me one check was done only below a certain temperature WITH less than half a tank of gas, and so on...
The car has been running fine throughout all of this and the light hasn't come on since Tuesday (Friday here now). I hope it won't become a chronic problem, now (around Christmas) is not a good time for my pocketbook!!
Just a thought, you might check the neutral start switch on your car, I have seen these go bad and will not allow the vehicle to start in park or neutral. I'm not a mechanic but I have seen this problem before.
I haven't read all the posts in this forum so I don't know if this has been posted before but I have a suggestion for everyone. For whatever type of vehicle you own, find out if the manufacturer sells the "shop manuals" for your car. These range from $40 to about $150. These are very detailed repair books that the dealer mechanics use, MUCH better than Haynes/Chilton manuals. I don't know if they are available for every vehicle but you should find out. For example I have a "shop manual" for my 1986 Kawasaki motorcycle. The manual walked me through every single step of dismantling the entire engine, including detailed step by step instructions with pictures of almost every bolt/nut/connector needed to be removed, and which step to do it in. My "shop manual" for my 95 Eagle Talon TSi cost me $48 and has TONS more info in it than the Haynes manual, it is also specific to my car instead of grouping several like cars into one book. In addition to the "shop manual" you should try and find a code reader for your vehicle. 1996 and newer cars all go by the ODB II standard and these code readers can cost from $90 - $500. There are also many code readers for older cars. I picked up a cheap code reader for my 1989 S10 Blazer for about $20. With both the shop manual and a code reader you greatly increase your chance of correctly diagnosing your problem and possibly fixing it yourself and saving tons of cash. Even if your car is still under warranty, I still recommend obtaining these items. I have read several posts here where the average person feels that they have been cheated by a dealership. I don't believe all dealers are shady but there are some that are less than reputable. With these 2 items and a little time spent on your part, you should have a general idea of what/where the problem may be BEFORE taking your car to the shop. My sister had a fuel injector go bad in her minivan and took it to the dealer. They said it was an "electrical problem" that was no longer covered under the electrical warranty 3/36,000, her van had 56k on it. I checked the code with code reader and looked it up in the shop manual. I don't remember off hand exactly what it was but it was dirrectly related to the injector that WAS covered under the 6/60,000 powertrain warranty. In the end she got the right part replaced for free. I don't mean to be long winded but for a couple hundered dollars, you can possibly save yourself thousands. Now this is not a fix-all solution. Even with these items you still may need an experienced mechanic to look at your car, but at least if your check engine light comes on, you can quickly find out if your car is experiencing mechanical failure that needs to be fixed right away, or if the problem is minor and will not cause the power train any harm if you continue driving and fix the issue when it is convienent for you.
Thanks, after comnpression test this weekend which turned out fine I am just even more baffled. It will crank it's heart out but won't start. Gas is there, spark is there, timing is dead on but won't start. There has to be some kind of sensor bad or , as my boss says, "computer's bad". I hate to replace parts on the hit or miss level that gets expensive. Frustration level is high enough that if I don't figure it out by xmas it's going to a shop & I'll have to grin and bear it. I hate electrical problems on these newer cars !
Reminds me of my wonderful, old 1978 Chrysler New Yorker. It had one of those porcelain resistor things on the firewall. In those days, it was pretty well understood by most garage people that when one of these porcelain monsters went out, that no amount of grinding the starter would ever get that rascal started again. For $2.50 one could be bought, and they were easy to install. Including my tow from the Interstate rest stop on down to Newark, Delaware, the cost was well over a hundred bucks.
just got the service manual for my explorer, on CD, and they actually have a computer to alternator link that will cut back or turn off the alternator if enough sensors agree you are trying to punch the gas pedal and zoom ahead.
now more than ever, just throwing parts over your shoulder until the car runs is not a winning strategy.
Just talked to a Acura Service Tech & Service Mgr. gave them the run down on car & service tech said there was a problem with the Dual Point systems related to bad ground on throttle body unit and to remake the ground. It would or would not always throw a code. So something more to try tomorrow. He also asked about the igniter. He said just because they replaced distribuor assembly does'nt mean it came with a new ignitor those are usually swapped out along w/coil pack. So another theory to check. Since I have good spark I kinda ruled that out but......
Well in any event Merry Christmas to All and Your Families !
I have a 2000 4Runner and the check engine light came on a couple of days ago after a gas fill up. I opened and closed the gas inlet line a few times and the next day there was no light. Since then the light has not come on. This has happened twice before over the last several months. Any comments out there?
Have someone with a code reader or scan tool check the stored trouble code (AutoZone can do it). Probably code P0442, Evaporative Emission Control System Small Leak Detected. If so, replace the gas cap.
I apologize in advance if I don't give enough info for this is my first time to post on a message board.
I have a '99 Rodeo V6 LS, 58,000 miles, which I have owned it for two years and it's been taken to the dealer more than 10 times. The check engine light is on. They fix it -- they say -- and less than 20 miles later, it comes back on.
My warranty has now expired, and Isuzu will have nothing to do with me. Three months ago, I took it to an independent mechanic shop (referred by several at my office) they read the code of "Camshaft position sensor" and replaced it. Light came on again, twenty minutes later. I took it back, they said they would need to break down the cam...sound right?
I tried to get it inspected, but it failed, with the code of OBD Failure (PO342).
Help, this has been an extreme headache for too long.
Does your state insist that the light be out during a state inspection, or some such? If so, I don't see how Isuzu could ignore you under the many years of warranty they MUST give you for air quality control equipment. Perhaps my thought is a stretch, but if your Rodeo cannot pass a state clean air equipment examination, then... ? Or, if the light on indicates a problem with the vehicle that needs to be repaired, and you have pursued it during warranty time... ? Maybe you need to contact the state officials or an attorney. If Isuzu cannot repair the vehicle, don't they owe you a new one?
when we had EPA-mandated inspections a few years ago, I seem to remember you could get a waiver if $250 wouldn't correct the issues. this did NOT include adding back federally-required antipollution equipment if some bozo pulled it off.
your state may have such a cheater provision. in any event, fleetwoodsimca is right, isuzu has to make the system right... assuming you can prove you didn't mung up the car and have all your papers showing the dealer hasn't got it right yet.
the OBD code indicates the AREA or SYSTEM that is screwing up, not necessarily the exact part, setting, or bolt tension that is causing the issue. if you can get ahold of the service specs for this vehicle, and chase down the service tree for this condition, it will list additional things to check out that should contribute to a final fix. it is highly likely that a worn cam, nutty valves or seals, incorrect base timing, or a tooth busted out of the timing set may be listed as things to be checked for this condition. in which case a partial teardown of the front and/or upper bolt-ons may indeed be needed for diagnosis.
the isuzu dealer's people should have been at least this educated (and I picked up a lot of what I know about the $$$ light from references on these boards and a link to another board frequent posters maintain,) and should have been able to fix this. it's a beef you have with the dealer, not necessarily isuzu, and once you eventually get this pinned down, the old saying has it that you will tell 30 times more people about how those guys screwed you that would have been told about a good repair.
they probably have earned it. but I would speak to one learned in the law in your area and see if you can get them to discharge their duty.
DTC P0342 is: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. It means that the PCM is not receiving a signal from the cam sensor. The sensor generates an AC signal which is converted by the ignition control module to a digital input to the PCM. The last one I had with that code had a broken wire in the firewall harness connector. Could also be a defective sensor, missing/damaged magnet on the cam sprocket, or defective ignition module. Easiest to trace down with a portable oscilliscope or Snap-on Vantage, hooking it up at various circuit connectors and looking for a signal dropout while on a road test or performing a wiring harness "wiggle test".
I know how you hate to be left dangling when offering advise and never finding out end results so here goes, got my 91 CRX w/1.5 DPI back from Acura dealer yesterday. They said they found a wire crossed on one of the two injectors (I hadn't touched them), changed the oil since it had a strong gas odor to it (no wonder, I had cranked it enough troubleshooting) they did compression check and found I had neglible compression due to washing out the cylinders from cranking so much. They put a squirt of motor oil into each cylinder to recoup the compression and wahla it started ! I tried a new ignitor just before I had it towed in to dealer out of another best guess and that didn't work either, wasted $92 for that part. That was the last straw for me. Well end result I have something else to right down in my memory for "first's" in my many years of do it yourself car repair.
I had posted previously (in the Pontiac Board) and I was asked to repost here. I just bought a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire (49 k miles). The next day the check engine Enhanced traction control system lights were staying on. I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced a computer part. A couple days later, the lights came back on. Plus, I heard a clicking sound in the left rear of the car and detected a burning smell in. I sent it back to the dealer for repair, but I'm wondering if the car is no good. Any ideas?
Keep on them. Keep all documentation. If you need to go to court, you will need all of it. Make sure they write your concerns down on every repair order and that you get a copy, fixed or not. Some states you can return the vehicle with in so many days of purchase. Did they tell you what trouble codes they were getting?
Thanks. Writing everything down is a good idea. This morning I had the car towed to them at their expense. They told me they fixed a fuel injection problem and got the lights to go off. By codes do you mean specific numbers? I'm not knowledgeable about such stuff. What I'll do is tomorrow send them a fax outlining my concerns, the number of times I had to bring the car back and why, and say I'll want my money back if there's another problem. I'll also take it to a mechanic for a diagnostic. I'm not sure what else I can do.
Yes, we would need to know what the specific trouble code numbers they obtained would be. It will give us a general idea of what kind fo problem you are running into.
At exactly 60,000 miles on my 2000 Grand Marquis the check engine light came on. After referring to owner's manual and finding it really is not a serious warning, I am suspicious that is only a marketing gimmick to get you into the dealer so they can do the 60K maintenance. Anyone have a similar experience?
Some vehicles are "programmed" to turn on the check engine light at certain mileage points. An example was my 1990 Dodge Ramcharger. The idea behind it was to have to pay attention to the emissions system, and to be sure it was adequate every 60K. It cost me $65.00 to get a dealership shop to turn the light off, and to tell me the system was perfectly fine, no problems what so ever. FYI: I was very unhappy about this situation...
1990 Dodge Truck D 150 Ramcharger V8-360 5.9L The CHECK ENGINE lamp is located in the instrument panel of the vehicle, and it is illuminated for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (bulb test).
This lamp is also used as a warning lamp to indicate immediate service of the engine control system is required. This light will illuminate if an improper or missing signal, from certain sensors or emission related devices (California models only), is received by the engine controller. If this light is ON while the vehicle is driving, it is an indication that the engine control system has entered its "Limp-In Mode" to try to keep the vehicle operating until it can be serviced.
The CHECK ENGINE lamp can also be used to display fault codes that have been stored in the engine controller's memory due to a system failure. To display codes with the CHECK ENGINE lamp, cycle the ignition switch ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON within five seconds and all of the fault codes stored will be displayed in a series of flashes representing digits. Fault codes can also be extracted using the DRB II or an equivalent scan tool.
Emission Maintenance Reminder Light On certain models, this Emission Maintenance Reminder System is incorporated into the engine controller. The controller stores vehicle mileage into its memory every 8 miles, then at 60,000, 82,500 or 120,000 miles it will illuminate the EMR lamp. When the indicated mileage is reached or the EMR lamp is on at all times, the following parts must be replaced and the EMR lamp reset.
At 60,00 miles, proceed as follows: Replace EGR valve. Clean EGR passage. Replace PCV valve. At 82,500 miles, proceed as follows: Replace oxygen sensor. At 120,000 miles, proceed as follows: Replace EGR valve. Clean EGR passage. Replace PCV valve. On 1990-95 models, after necessary emission maintenance has been performed, connect Diagnosis Read-Out Box II (DRB II) to the on-board diagnosis connector. See images above. On all models, Follow instructions indicated by DRB II tool.
The light on, in the dash panel, didn't introduce itself in any way I could use to differentiate it from when it acts as the check engine lamp. My manual told me it was programmed to come on simply to cause me to investigate the emissions equipment. I took the rascal to a Chrysler dealer nearby. They stated in writing that my system did not require ANY repair or maintenance (according to their computer) and they extinguished the light. I was then "light" by $60.00. I sold the truck not too awfully long thereafter. I must declare that I did very good periodic maintenance on that vehicle, so I was not surprised at all that it needed nothing more than the light turned out. By the way, I am seeing more and more ads for consumer-type OBD code readers on sale at places like Autozone. What do you think of them, say, compared to jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable? I'd like to be able to "turn out the lights" for less than $60.00 per shot! (And diagnose, as well)(:o]
By the way, I am seeing more and more ads for consumer-type OBD code readers on sale at places like Autozone. What do you think of them, say, compared to jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable?
OBD or OBD2? OBD, if you are buying it to reset the maintenance required trigger, forget it, it won't do it. OBD2, then I would be concerned about what you are spending your money on. Can you tell me what the brand and model they are selling?
Clarify jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable. Not sure what you mean.
Comments
I am living proof that you have to watch out for these dealerships, especially if you're a woman. They obviously thought I was too stupid to figure this out myself. Monday, they will rue the day they ever met me.
now, the mechanic at the dealership might not have done that, just plugged a part and gone home, but let's have one of the online experts like alcan or 0patience do his usual fine and welcome volunteer act, look up the code and the tree for the car, and advise further.
then, if you have good reason to tear a strip off, you will have some solid extra facts to print off and take in with you.
The shift solenoid valve SL is turned ON and OFF by signals from the ECM to control the hydraulic pressure acting on the lock-up relay valve, which then controls operation of the lock-up clutch.
Fail safe function
If the ECM detects a malfunction, it turns the shift solenoid valve SL OFF.
Possible causes:
Faulty ECM
Fautly Shift solenoid valve SL
Open or short in the shift solenoid valve circuit.
Since they supposedly replaced the shift solenoid valve, then it is likely that there is a problem with the circuit for the shift solenoid.
My question is, why did they replace the shift solenoid valve?
Do you think I should try purchasing a new gas cap??
I have scheduled the car to go in for service on Tuesday. I have a very nice and good private mechanic close to my home (a true blessing). I'll keep everyone informed.
Greg
I wondered if they'd just changed the trigger range so the light wouldn't come on that easily. GM says they trust their factory trained techs and advised me to contact the dealership, which I did, they offered the "out-of-calibration" explanation. Montanafan directed me (thanx) to this site http://calid.gm.com/vci/ where you can check Part numbers (that's like software versions) and Calibration ID's.
The help page says:
"The last line of each table indicates the latest part number issued for your vehicle....
In addition to the information in these tables, you also need to know the calibration ID(s) and Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) currently contained in your vehicle to determine if there is a later calibration available. Service scan tools have the capability to read calibration ID and CVN values from the vehicle controller...."
There is a blank space after the word PART# on my work order, although THERE IS an 8-digit part# printed for a door clip they replaced the same day, so I'm going to have a little Monday morning conversation with them ;-) Thanks.
These factors are chiefly responsible for my seeking ways to avoid those brands when shopping for new vehicles. Your current experience may push you in this direction for the future, as well. Good luck and keep us informed. We all "need to know."
Concerning the origin of the make, I agree wholeheartedly that the level of quality and customer satisfaction is the same, if not worse, with foreign cars. I love my Solara and have had no other issues/problems aside from this, but I'll tell you - I had a '91 Pontiac Sunbird before this car, and even though the cars are hardly comparable, I loved that car just as much and, aside from a faulty speedometer, never had any major problems with it at all. I think "American" cars get a bad rap. And that is pointless anyway, when it seems 75% of a so-called foreign car is made in the U.S. I would go back to a Pontiac any day.
Sorry to get off the topic....
I am in the med systems business and you talk about arrogance-there are some companies out here that think they have exclusive products and the way they treat their clients-oh it is goood to be able to evict those arrogant people.
Yeah as a Honda owner, I would like to have an Ami made option but IMHO-it ain't out there yet.
The good news is that it didn't cost nearly as much as I expected--only $164. Maybe I shouldn't say this until I wait a while, but the dealership was actually quite courteous to me today, the technician supposedly sympathized and stayed late to fix this, and therefore I wasn't forced into getting a rental, plus I think he knocked a few dollars off the bill. Sure, maybe it's BS, but my soft side almost feels bad for ragging on them here so much.
Thanks for your help, guys! Hopefully I won't have to come back here with a negative follow-up.
The distributor was replaced at Honda dealership 18k ago, new alternator & battery 7k ago, new fuel filter & fuel pump 30k ago, new timing belt & water pump 42k ago.
HELP if you can PLEASE !!!!!!! I dread having to take it back to Honda dealer since last time there they replaced distributor but never checked timing and had to bring it back because it was pinging so bad, got their typical response "it was within spec but we readjusted"
Ray T.
I'll try and get you in an area, but to be honest.
This is one for one of the guys who are familiar with Hondas. Hondadude and Mr Donut (hey, they chose their names) are probably the best Honda guys. Click on my profile and go to Imports.
Anyway, first thing we need to do is confirm compression on all cylinders.
Next,
Pull out the ignition timing adjusting connector located right under dash and connect the BRN and GRN / WHT terminals with a jumper wire.
Connect a timing light to the No.1 plug wire; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover.
Adjust ignition timing, if necessary. Standard model: 18°±2°BTDC (RED) at 750±50 rpm in neutral
Adjust if necessary by loosening the distributor adjusting bolts, and turn the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard the timing.
Tighten the adjusting bolts and recheck the timing.
Remove the jumper wire to the ignition timing adjusting connector.
If the timing is close, then there may be a fuel problem. Whether it is fuel quality or fuel pressure, that needs to be determined. There are some tests that you can perform with a DVOM to check the injector resistance.
When was the fuel filter last replaced?
Thanks
Ray T.
1. Is it pointless to keep this appointment now that there is no longer a light?
2. The vehicle has to have the gov't emissions test done before the end of the month. I don't want to run the risk of it failing, could the check engine be related to emissions from the vehicle.
thanks.
One thing to add, Alcan knows more about the Canadian emissions than I do, so he might be able to confirm, but I think if an emissions code is present when you go to get the emissions test done, they may fail you, whether the light is on or not.
Hopefully, Alcan can confirm if that is so or not.
2) As the others have said, I've read many postings in the past month of people who have had their check engine light on for emissions problems. I'm sure if you do a search for that subject in this message board, you'll find answers.
My mechanic told me that some of these check engine light faults are quite specific and complicated. He told me one check was done only below a certain temperature WITH less than half a tank of gas, and so on...
The car has been running fine throughout all of this and the light hasn't come on since Tuesday (Friday here now). I hope it won't become a chronic problem, now (around Christmas) is not a good time for my pocketbook!!
Happy holidays all.
Greg
In addition to the "shop manual" you should try and find a code reader for your vehicle. 1996 and newer cars all go by the ODB II standard and these code readers can cost from $90 - $500. There are also many code readers for older cars. I picked up a cheap code reader for my 1989 S10 Blazer for about $20. With both the shop manual and a code reader you greatly increase your chance of correctly diagnosing your problem and possibly fixing it yourself and saving tons of cash. Even if your car is still under warranty, I still recommend obtaining these items. I have read several posts here where the average person feels that they have been cheated by a dealership. I don't believe all dealers are shady but there are some that are less than reputable. With these 2 items and a little time spent on your part, you should have a general idea of what/where the problem may be BEFORE taking your car to the shop. My sister had a fuel injector go bad in her minivan and took it to the dealer. They said it was an "electrical problem" that was no longer covered under the electrical warranty 3/36,000, her van had 56k on it. I checked the code with code reader and looked it up in the shop manual. I don't remember off hand exactly what it was but it was dirrectly related to the injector that WAS covered under the 6/60,000 powertrain warranty. In the end she got the right part replaced for free. I don't mean to be long winded but for a couple hundered dollars, you can possibly save yourself thousands. Now this is not a fix-all solution. Even with these items you still may need an experienced mechanic to look at your car, but at least if your check engine light comes on, you can quickly find out if your car is experiencing mechanical failure that needs to be fixed right away, or if the problem is minor and will not cause the power train any harm if you continue driving and fix the issue when it is convienent for you.
I hate electrical problems on these newer cars !
Ray T.
now more than ever, just throwing parts over your shoulder until the car runs is not a winning strategy.
Well in any event Merry Christmas to All and Your Families !
HoHoHo
Ray T.
I have a '99 Rodeo V6 LS, 58,000 miles, which I have owned it for two years and it's been taken to the dealer more than 10 times. The check engine light is on. They fix it -- they say -- and less than 20 miles later, it comes back on.
My warranty has now expired, and Isuzu will have nothing to do with me. Three months ago, I took it to an independent mechanic shop (referred by several at my office) they read the code of "Camshaft position sensor" and replaced it. Light came on again, twenty minutes later. I took it back, they said they would need to break down the cam...sound right?
I tried to get it inspected, but it failed, with the code of OBD Failure (PO342).
Help, this has been an extreme headache for too long.
your state may have such a cheater provision. in any event, fleetwoodsimca is right, isuzu has to make the system right... assuming you can prove you didn't mung up the car and have all your papers showing the dealer hasn't got it right yet.
the OBD code indicates the AREA or SYSTEM that is screwing up, not necessarily the exact part, setting, or bolt tension that is causing the issue. if you can get ahold of the service specs for this vehicle, and chase down the service tree for this condition, it will list additional things to check out that should contribute to a final fix. it is highly likely that a worn cam, nutty valves or seals, incorrect base timing, or a tooth busted out of the timing set may be listed as things to be checked for this condition. in which case a partial teardown of the front and/or upper bolt-ons may indeed be needed for diagnosis.
the isuzu dealer's people should have been at least this educated (and I picked up a lot of what I know about the $$$ light from references on these boards and a link to another board frequent posters maintain,) and should have been able to fix this. it's a beef you have with the dealer, not necessarily isuzu, and once you eventually get this pinned down, the old saying has it that you will tell 30 times more people about how those guys screwed you that would have been told about a good repair.
they probably have earned it. but I would speak to one learned in the law in your area and see if you can get them to discharge their duty.
Well end result I have something else to right down in my memory for "first's" in my many years of do it yourself car repair.
Thanks for your input anyway.
Ray T.
Thanks
I just bought a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire (49 k miles). The next day the check engine Enhanced traction control system lights were staying on. I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced a computer part. A couple days later, the lights came back on. Plus, I heard a clicking sound in the left rear of the car and detected a burning smell in. I sent it back to the dealer for repair, but I'm wondering if the car is no good.
Any ideas?
Make sure they write your concerns down on every repair order and that you get a copy, fixed or not.
Some states you can return the vehicle with in so many days of purchase.
Did they tell you what trouble codes they were getting?
What I'll do is tomorrow send them a fax outlining my concerns, the number of times I had to bring the car back and why, and say I'll want my money back if there's another problem. I'll also take it to a mechanic for a diagnostic.
I'm not sure what else I can do.
It will give us a general idea of what kind fo problem you are running into.
IS THIC COVERED BY EMISSION WARRANTY BY GM?
ANY INPUT/IDEAS. TKS.
He could be right, then again, could be something else.
We have ablsolutely no idea if he is in the right area or not without some numbers to go by.
Is it covered by warranty? Not likely, since the longest emissions warranty I know of is 5 years.
It is not a marketing ploy.
There are a hundred different causes that can make the light come on, so unless you know what turned the light on, anything is a guess.
The CHECK ENGINE lamp is located in the instrument panel of the vehicle, and it is illuminated for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (bulb test).
This lamp is also used as a warning lamp to indicate immediate service of the engine control system is required. This light will illuminate if an improper or missing signal, from certain sensors or emission related devices (California models only), is received by the engine controller. If this light is ON while the vehicle is driving, it is an indication that the engine control system has entered its "Limp-In Mode" to try to keep the vehicle operating until it can be serviced.
The CHECK ENGINE lamp can also be used to display fault codes that have been stored in the engine controller's memory due to a system failure. To display codes with the CHECK ENGINE lamp, cycle the ignition switch ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON within five seconds and all of the fault codes stored will be displayed in a series of flashes representing digits. Fault codes can also be extracted using the DRB II or an equivalent scan tool.
Emission Maintenance Reminder Light
On certain models, this Emission Maintenance Reminder System is incorporated into the engine controller. The controller stores vehicle mileage into its memory every 8 miles, then at 60,000, 82,500 or 120,000 miles it will illuminate the EMR lamp. When the indicated mileage is reached or the EMR lamp is on at all times, the following parts must be replaced and the EMR lamp reset.
At 60,00 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace EGR valve.
Clean EGR passage.
Replace PCV valve.
At 82,500 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace oxygen sensor.
At 120,000 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace EGR valve.
Clean EGR passage.
Replace PCV valve.
On 1990-95 models, after necessary emission maintenance has been performed, connect Diagnosis Read-Out Box II (DRB II) to the on-board diagnosis connector. See images above.
On all models, Follow instructions indicated by DRB II tool.
By the way, I am seeing more and more ads for consumer-type OBD code readers on sale at places like Autozone. What do you think of them, say, compared to jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable?
OBD or OBD2?
OBD, if you are buying it to reset the maintenance required trigger, forget it, it won't do it.
OBD2, then I would be concerned about what you are spending your money on. Can you tell me what the brand and model they are selling?
Clarify jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable.
Not sure what you mean.