Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I am living proof that you have to watch out for these dealerships, especially if you're a woman. They obviously thought I was too stupid to figure this out myself. Monday, they will rue the day they ever met me.
now, the mechanic at the dealership might not have done that, just plugged a part and gone home, but let's have one of the online experts like alcan or 0patience do his usual fine and welcome volunteer act, look up the code and the tree for the car, and advise further.
then, if you have good reason to tear a strip off, you will have some solid extra facts to print off and take in with you.
The shift solenoid valve SL is turned ON and OFF by signals from the ECM to control the hydraulic pressure acting on the lock-up relay valve, which then controls operation of the lock-up clutch.
Fail safe function
If the ECM detects a malfunction, it turns the shift solenoid valve SL OFF.
Possible causes:
Faulty ECM
Fautly Shift solenoid valve SL
Open or short in the shift solenoid valve circuit.
Since they supposedly replaced the shift solenoid valve, then it is likely that there is a problem with the circuit for the shift solenoid.
My question is, why did they replace the shift solenoid valve?
Do you think I should try purchasing a new gas cap??
I have scheduled the car to go in for service on Tuesday. I have a very nice and good private mechanic close to my home (a true blessing). I'll keep everyone informed.
Greg
I wondered if they'd just changed the trigger range so the light wouldn't come on that easily. GM says they trust their factory trained techs and advised me to contact the dealership, which I did, they offered the "out-of-calibration" explanation. Montanafan directed me (thanx) to this site http://calid.gm.com/vci/ where you can check Part numbers (that's like software versions) and Calibration ID's.
The help page says:
"The last line of each table indicates the latest part number issued for your vehicle....
In addition to the information in these tables, you also need to know the calibration ID(s) and Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) currently contained in your vehicle to determine if there is a later calibration available. Service scan tools have the capability to read calibration ID and CVN values from the vehicle controller...."
There is a blank space after the word PART# on my work order, although THERE IS an 8-digit part# printed for a door clip they replaced the same day, so I'm going to have a little Monday morning conversation with them ;-) Thanks.
These factors are chiefly responsible for my seeking ways to avoid those brands when shopping for new vehicles. Your current experience may push you in this direction for the future, as well. Good luck and keep us informed. We all "need to know."
Concerning the origin of the make, I agree wholeheartedly that the level of quality and customer satisfaction is the same, if not worse, with foreign cars. I love my Solara and have had no other issues/problems aside from this, but I'll tell you - I had a '91 Pontiac Sunbird before this car, and even though the cars are hardly comparable, I loved that car just as much and, aside from a faulty speedometer, never had any major problems with it at all. I think "American" cars get a bad rap. And that is pointless anyway, when it seems 75% of a so-called foreign car is made in the U.S. I would go back to a Pontiac any day.
Sorry to get off the topic....
I am in the med systems business and you talk about arrogance-there are some companies out here that think they have exclusive products and the way they treat their clients-oh it is goood to be able to evict those arrogant people.
Yeah as a Honda owner, I would like to have an Ami made option but IMHO-it ain't out there yet.
The good news is that it didn't cost nearly as much as I expected--only $164. Maybe I shouldn't say this until I wait a while, but the dealership was actually quite courteous to me today, the technician supposedly sympathized and stayed late to fix this, and therefore I wasn't forced into getting a rental, plus I think he knocked a few dollars off the bill. Sure, maybe it's BS, but my soft side almost feels bad for ragging on them here so much.
Thanks for your help, guys! Hopefully I won't have to come back here with a negative follow-up.
The distributor was replaced at Honda dealership 18k ago, new alternator & battery 7k ago, new fuel filter & fuel pump 30k ago, new timing belt & water pump 42k ago.
HELP if you can PLEASE !!!!!!! I dread having to take it back to Honda dealer since last time there they replaced distributor but never checked timing and had to bring it back because it was pinging so bad, got their typical response "it was within spec but we readjusted"
Ray T.
I'll try and get you in an area, but to be honest.
This is one for one of the guys who are familiar with Hondas. Hondadude and Mr Donut (hey, they chose their names) are probably the best Honda guys. Click on my profile and go to Imports.
Anyway, first thing we need to do is confirm compression on all cylinders.
Next,
Pull out the ignition timing adjusting connector located right under dash and connect the BRN and GRN / WHT terminals with a jumper wire.
Connect a timing light to the No.1 plug wire; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover.
Adjust ignition timing, if necessary. Standard model: 18°±2°BTDC (RED) at 750±50 rpm in neutral
Adjust if necessary by loosening the distributor adjusting bolts, and turn the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard the timing.
Tighten the adjusting bolts and recheck the timing.
Remove the jumper wire to the ignition timing adjusting connector.
If the timing is close, then there may be a fuel problem. Whether it is fuel quality or fuel pressure, that needs to be determined. There are some tests that you can perform with a DVOM to check the injector resistance.
When was the fuel filter last replaced?
Thanks
Ray T.
1. Is it pointless to keep this appointment now that there is no longer a light?
2. The vehicle has to have the gov't emissions test done before the end of the month. I don't want to run the risk of it failing, could the check engine be related to emissions from the vehicle.
thanks.
One thing to add, Alcan knows more about the Canadian emissions than I do, so he might be able to confirm, but I think if an emissions code is present when you go to get the emissions test done, they may fail you, whether the light is on or not.
Hopefully, Alcan can confirm if that is so or not.
2) As the others have said, I've read many postings in the past month of people who have had their check engine light on for emissions problems. I'm sure if you do a search for that subject in this message board, you'll find answers.
My mechanic told me that some of these check engine light faults are quite specific and complicated. He told me one check was done only below a certain temperature WITH less than half a tank of gas, and so on...
The car has been running fine throughout all of this and the light hasn't come on since Tuesday (Friday here now). I hope it won't become a chronic problem, now (around Christmas) is not a good time for my pocketbook!!
Happy holidays all.
Greg
In addition to the "shop manual" you should try and find a code reader for your vehicle. 1996 and newer cars all go by the ODB II standard and these code readers can cost from $90 - $500. There are also many code readers for older cars. I picked up a cheap code reader for my 1989 S10 Blazer for about $20. With both the shop manual and a code reader you greatly increase your chance of correctly diagnosing your problem and possibly fixing it yourself and saving tons of cash. Even if your car is still under warranty, I still recommend obtaining these items. I have read several posts here where the average person feels that they have been cheated by a dealership. I don't believe all dealers are shady but there are some that are less than reputable. With these 2 items and a little time spent on your part, you should have a general idea of what/where the problem may be BEFORE taking your car to the shop. My sister had a fuel injector go bad in her minivan and took it to the dealer. They said it was an "electrical problem" that was no longer covered under the electrical warranty 3/36,000, her van had 56k on it. I checked the code with code reader and looked it up in the shop manual. I don't remember off hand exactly what it was but it was dirrectly related to the injector that WAS covered under the 6/60,000 powertrain warranty. In the end she got the right part replaced for free. I don't mean to be long winded but for a couple hundered dollars, you can possibly save yourself thousands. Now this is not a fix-all solution. Even with these items you still may need an experienced mechanic to look at your car, but at least if your check engine light comes on, you can quickly find out if your car is experiencing mechanical failure that needs to be fixed right away, or if the problem is minor and will not cause the power train any harm if you continue driving and fix the issue when it is convienent for you.
I hate electrical problems on these newer cars !
Ray T.
now more than ever, just throwing parts over your shoulder until the car runs is not a winning strategy.
Well in any event Merry Christmas to All and Your Families !
HoHoHo
Ray T.
I have a '99 Rodeo V6 LS, 58,000 miles, which I have owned it for two years and it's been taken to the dealer more than 10 times. The check engine light is on. They fix it -- they say -- and less than 20 miles later, it comes back on.
My warranty has now expired, and Isuzu will have nothing to do with me. Three months ago, I took it to an independent mechanic shop (referred by several at my office) they read the code of "Camshaft position sensor" and replaced it. Light came on again, twenty minutes later. I took it back, they said they would need to break down the cam...sound right?
I tried to get it inspected, but it failed, with the code of OBD Failure (PO342).
Help, this has been an extreme headache for too long.
your state may have such a cheater provision. in any event, fleetwoodsimca is right, isuzu has to make the system right... assuming you can prove you didn't mung up the car and have all your papers showing the dealer hasn't got it right yet.
the OBD code indicates the AREA or SYSTEM that is screwing up, not necessarily the exact part, setting, or bolt tension that is causing the issue. if you can get ahold of the service specs for this vehicle, and chase down the service tree for this condition, it will list additional things to check out that should contribute to a final fix. it is highly likely that a worn cam, nutty valves or seals, incorrect base timing, or a tooth busted out of the timing set may be listed as things to be checked for this condition. in which case a partial teardown of the front and/or upper bolt-ons may indeed be needed for diagnosis.
the isuzu dealer's people should have been at least this educated (and I picked up a lot of what I know about the $$$ light from references on these boards and a link to another board frequent posters maintain,) and should have been able to fix this. it's a beef you have with the dealer, not necessarily isuzu, and once you eventually get this pinned down, the old saying has it that you will tell 30 times more people about how those guys screwed you that would have been told about a good repair.
they probably have earned it. but I would speak to one learned in the law in your area and see if you can get them to discharge their duty.
Well end result I have something else to right down in my memory for "first's" in my many years of do it yourself car repair.
Thanks for your input anyway.
Ray T.
Thanks
I just bought a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire (49 k miles). The next day the check engine Enhanced traction control system lights were staying on. I took it to the dealer and they said they replaced a computer part. A couple days later, the lights came back on. Plus, I heard a clicking sound in the left rear of the car and detected a burning smell in. I sent it back to the dealer for repair, but I'm wondering if the car is no good.
Any ideas?
Make sure they write your concerns down on every repair order and that you get a copy, fixed or not.
Some states you can return the vehicle with in so many days of purchase.
Did they tell you what trouble codes they were getting?
What I'll do is tomorrow send them a fax outlining my concerns, the number of times I had to bring the car back and why, and say I'll want my money back if there's another problem. I'll also take it to a mechanic for a diagnostic.
I'm not sure what else I can do.
It will give us a general idea of what kind fo problem you are running into.
IS THIC COVERED BY EMISSION WARRANTY BY GM?
ANY INPUT/IDEAS. TKS.
He could be right, then again, could be something else.
We have ablsolutely no idea if he is in the right area or not without some numbers to go by.
Is it covered by warranty? Not likely, since the longest emissions warranty I know of is 5 years.
It is not a marketing ploy.
There are a hundred different causes that can make the light come on, so unless you know what turned the light on, anything is a guess.
The CHECK ENGINE lamp is located in the instrument panel of the vehicle, and it is illuminated for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (bulb test).
This lamp is also used as a warning lamp to indicate immediate service of the engine control system is required. This light will illuminate if an improper or missing signal, from certain sensors or emission related devices (California models only), is received by the engine controller. If this light is ON while the vehicle is driving, it is an indication that the engine control system has entered its "Limp-In Mode" to try to keep the vehicle operating until it can be serviced.
The CHECK ENGINE lamp can also be used to display fault codes that have been stored in the engine controller's memory due to a system failure. To display codes with the CHECK ENGINE lamp, cycle the ignition switch ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON within five seconds and all of the fault codes stored will be displayed in a series of flashes representing digits. Fault codes can also be extracted using the DRB II or an equivalent scan tool.
Emission Maintenance Reminder Light
On certain models, this Emission Maintenance Reminder System is incorporated into the engine controller. The controller stores vehicle mileage into its memory every 8 miles, then at 60,000, 82,500 or 120,000 miles it will illuminate the EMR lamp. When the indicated mileage is reached or the EMR lamp is on at all times, the following parts must be replaced and the EMR lamp reset.
At 60,00 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace EGR valve.
Clean EGR passage.
Replace PCV valve.
At 82,500 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace oxygen sensor.
At 120,000 miles, proceed as follows:
Replace EGR valve.
Clean EGR passage.
Replace PCV valve.
On 1990-95 models, after necessary emission maintenance has been performed, connect Diagnosis Read-Out Box II (DRB II) to the on-board diagnosis connector. See images above.
On all models, Follow instructions indicated by DRB II tool.
By the way, I am seeing more and more ads for consumer-type OBD code readers on sale at places like Autozone. What do you think of them, say, compared to jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable?
OBD or OBD2?
OBD, if you are buying it to reset the maintenance required trigger, forget it, it won't do it.
OBD2, then I would be concerned about what you are spending your money on. Can you tell me what the brand and model they are selling?
Clarify jury rigging a system with an old computer and adapter cable.
Not sure what you mean.