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Stories of INCOMPETENT MECHANICS - post yours!

13

Comments

  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Before I started working on cars I had a run in with them charging $500.00 for a brake job. It's called there lifetime brake pads scam....Sorry to hear that you had to return 4 times joeg26er over the wrong part. But that's what happens when a company works on all types of cars they sometimes don't know what they are ordering....

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    My recent close encounter with struts on the Beater Buick had me at home with the rear struts off the car and two boxes containing the wrong struts. Fortunately we had two other cars and I actually could have walked the two blocks to the parts store if truly desperate.

    I don't know how different the parts are between the automatic and the manual transmission vehicles so it is hard to say if the shop screwed up or the parts supplier sent the wrong item. But after the seal failed, if I were the shop manager, we'd have tried something else.

    Perhaps they didn't want to eat the cost of the axle and were trying to make the one installed "work"

    Cheers,

    TB
  • joeg26erjoeg26er Member Posts: 10
    ...is what they are -
    Yeah- so cheap they would not pay to replace the trans oil plug!

    Now a little about a year and a half later - the left CV is clicking!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I got a call from a fellow this weekend who bought the truck I recently traded in. The battery had been disconnected during an alternator replacement and he needed the code to turn the theft lock off on the radio. He said that in addition to the alternator going out (very common for the miles) the Goodyear store told him the battery was bad and sold him a new one. I didn't have the heart to tell him the truck had a brand new 7year commercial Delco battery in it that would not have been hurt by being run down, and even if it had, it was still under full replacement warranty. What do you bet that somewhere out there is a Goodyear employee with a $150.00 Delco battery under the hood of his car.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I'm no fan of Goodyear and have stories which shall remain untold.

    Still...that battery could have failed.

    But you would think that the Goodyear guy would see it was new and suggest he take it to a Delco dealer....?
  • icicilesiciciles Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a used 95 Buick Riv 3.8 Schgd. Pretty clean car but needed new rubber and some various thumps from the front end when turning and going over speed bumps. Took it in to Goodyear in Poway, CA. Being a MN backyard mech. all my life, I felt pretty safe that I could see through any California slick talk. They replaced the tires at a fair price and I took the mech/manager out for a spin to troubleshoot the thumps. He, at first, did not hear them but then said he did. I had to go back to work for a few hours and upon return (to work) I received a call saying they found that the entire Magnasteer component should be replaced (2200 dollars) They said it was leaking and said it was about due anyway. I declined because I was underneath the car a couple days before and it was dry. He then studdered over a sentence saying that they would need to tighten four carriage bolts that held the steering component to the frame...sounded logical. 1hour labor-$60. The car was delivered to my work after their hours had closed and I drove it home (65 miles one way). No improvement. I returned the next day to ask which bolts it was that he tightened and he couldn't find them...in fact, it took him 5 min. just to locate the rack and pinion assembly. Goodyear sucks!
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    This happened at a Goodyear in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area about 10 years ago.

    I took my car in to have the coolant flushed and refilled.

    I got a call at work that day, they said the car needed new wiper blades (matter of opinion) and a new muffler (it did need that, it was rusted out and loud).

    I declined the $30 wiper blade replacement and asked how much it would be to replace the muffler. "Well, the exhaust system in one piece all the way from the front to the back on this car. We can't just replace the muffler, we have to replace the whole system." I recall they wanted around $350 to do it.

    I declined that too. That evening I picked up the car and drove across town to Farm & Fleet. At the auto parts counter I opened their exhaust system book and ordered - you guessed it- just a muffler for the car.

    I ended up having to buy a couple of new clamps and replaced it myself for around $60.

    I also swore off doing exhaust system work ever again. I really do not like little flakes of rust in my eyes!

    Dave
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Exhaust systems always have some type of particle just waiting for the second when you look up... Than it falls right in that's why I usually put on my safety glasses. Not the big huge things that cover your whole face. (I hate thoses)

    Kristina/co host our Turn
  • schaffs2schaffs2 Member Posts: 12
    I took my new-used 95 Mitsubishi mirage into a local Goodyear to have some new rubber put on the front. They gave the itres at a good price, and proceeded to bust out the center caps of my alluminum rims and not tell me. (I found them in the cneter console) They also put the new tires on the back instead of the front, mananged to get the HEADLINER dirty, and not own up to any of it. By the way, my McGaurds locking lugs were in the center consol with the center caps, even though they had the lug key attached to the key ring. This is just the beginning. Against my advice, and pleading from another friend, (Both of us gearheads) one of my friends took his high milage Escort there to have the clutch done. it seemed ok until the day the gears LITTERALLY came apart, blew a hole the size of a pop can in the tranny, and came to a hault. When taken to a highly respected transmission shop, they noticed one of the six bolts that held the 5sp to the engine, missing, and three of them loose. Did I mention they deny responsibilty?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    A co-worker took his Jetta VR6 to a local Goodyear shop; they managed to break all four of the VW locking lugs. I only refer bitter enemies to Goodyear Service Centers.
  • lwyoderlwyoder Member Posts: 1
    Avoid Toth Buick/Pontiac in Akron, Ohio. I have had to install four gas tanks on my 93 LeSabre and they don't have a clue as to what is causing the leaks. Three were under warranty, the last one cost me about $600 and still no cause was determined.
  • tubongkalibotubongkalibo Member Posts: 3
    I recently had my 1993 VW Cabriolet serviced for its 100,000 miles check-up. Well, they did the oil change with a DIFFERENT OIL. It took them three days (3) to do the oil change and valve cover gasket. I already had an appointment with them but it still took three days. Also, they never called up to tell me when it would be ready. Anyway, I finally got hold of somebody there and he said that it was ready and will cost me about $120. After two days of using this car I again have to bring it back.

    This time, the oil has to be replaced. Also, somehow, the ignition key is not working anymore. They informed me that it will cost me at around $200. It's been three days (3days) now and they still have not called up. Of course I have been calling them and leaving several message but to no avail. Still waiting for their phone call on when my car would be ready.

    So, in other words, the SERVICE is BAD.
  • carshatemecarshateme Member Posts: 4
    Here's a couple little stories about my '87 Accord: For about the first ten months or so that I had Buttercup (my car)she worked great. The brakes were a little spongy though, so when I took her in for inspection I wasn't suprised when they said she needed some brake work. I was billed about $300 for it, they car passed inspection and I went on my merry way.
    Well. The fist tip-off that something was wrong should have been that the brakes felt as spongy as they did before the repairs, but I just told myself, "hey, this car is almost as old as you, what do you want!!" So I kept driving. Stupid me.
    One day I was on my way out to run some errands, and I braked for the stop sign at the end of my street. The pedal went all the way to the floor and nothing happened. Remembering my Drivers' Ed training (who would have thought!) I tried the parking brake. NOTHING-- that had gone too. Somehow I maneuvered the car to the side of the road by shifting gears --reverse, neutral, drive, etc-- just before I would have drifted on to a busy street.
    Back to the brake shop where I'd had my inspection performed a month earlier. They confirmed that my emergency brake was indeed not functioning, and they also revealed that my brake pads were not worn but MISSING. Somehow they overlooked that when they were inspecting my car. (!!?!)
    Here's the worst part: My dad took the car in to get the brake pads and emergency brake fixed while I was, unwittingly, at work: I didn't get to ream them out for allowing me to drive a potential death trap. When I asked him what excuse they gave as to how they overlooked my brakes, they fed him some rhetoric about how it must have happened after the inspection (they just FELL OFF? without me noticing? uh-huh). Long story short: I was out another $600.
    Story #2, only slightly less irritating: I got my CV's replaced, both sides. Buttercup still made her characterstic "clicking" noise when she turned. Before I even had the chance to make an appointment, I was at a drive-thru ATM and the CV's just BROKE. That's the only way I can describe it; there was this horrible crunching sound and then my car wouldn't shift into gear or go anywhere. I pushed the car into an empty parking space and had it towed back to the repair shop, where I demanded they fix the CV's and right this time. They did it, reluctantly (trying to tell me it was something else)and still refused to pay the towing costs. ARRRRGH!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Find a different mechanic!!
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Even one you trust to do a good job may not have the time ( should have it but?) to inspect and assure all is okay. Simple fluid changes always check the level as soon as you get home to assue it is within the specifications, especially the transmission and check for leaks. They really don't measure how much they take out and can overfill or underfill the transmission, happened to me yesterday. Too many horror stories of loose oil filters leaking (that hand tighten crap doesn't work) loose bolts on the transmission pan etc. etc. Quality parts another isssue, especially brake pads. I have now come to the conclusion only original equip parts last, the aftermarket stuff is garbage!!!!!
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Ohh My!!!! Just reading your post makes me feel sorry for what you have gone through.. It's not that cars hate you people just aren't fixing them properly.. How could they miss putting on your brake pads??? I'm glad you weren't injured.

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Missing brake pads??? Didn't that sound a bit fishy to you...?
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    It sure did!!! How could you let a car leave with no brake pads. The pedal wouldn't just be spongy.. An how would they get it out of the shop to give it to the customer without noticing this problem????

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • gtt1gtt1 Member Posts: 63
    I used to be a tech at a dealer then at a national trans chain before I opened my own shop, the reason I quit turning wrenches is because of people complaining about stuff I never touched on their car. ie:I did a water pump on a guys car. 2 months later he comes back saying I messed up his brakes!!! This kind of thing happend on a weekly basis. Yes, there are a few times that I screwed up, and usually I made it right. I don't work on other peoples car anymore, because of this. They took the fun out of it.
    For my INCOMPETENT MECHANIC story: I changed the oil on the wife car the other day, and she came a told me that there was a leak under it now. Turns out I left the old filter gasket on and didn't notice when I put the new one on! :)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I can top that: one day I was changing the oil and while pouring in the first quart of fresh oil I happened to notice the drain plug still sitting on the fender. I set a world record for diving under the car an reinstalling the plug. I barely made it, though. Then there was the time I decided to change the oil on my wife's Volvo 740 Turbo. Everything was going fine until I removed the filter from the topside and then realized that there wasn't enough room to lift it out from the top. Did I mention the car was not on a ramp or jack stands? Had to go get my wife, crawl/wedge myself under the car, and hand her the new filter from below. Moral: Just because you can see it and loosen it doesn't mean you can remove it...
    And now for an incompetent dealer mechanic story: One day my wife's best friend mentioned that the wiper arms would continually loosen up on her new Accord. She had taken it back to the dealer THREE times. Each time they would tighten the nuts and the fix would last for a month or so. The dealer told her that they didn't know what else to do. I went out to the car, removed the nuts, put a drop of blue Loctite on the threaded shafts and retightened the nuts. My fix lasted until she sold the car some three years later. I also suggested she find another shop; if those bozos couldn't resolve that "problem", what would they do when they ran into something REALLY tough???
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yeah, the more I think about that, I simply don't believe the story. If the pads had been left out, it seems the calipers would have blown when the brakes were applied.

    Sorry, but I don't swallow the story.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Yes, Isellhondas, I also wondered about driving without brake pad(s). However, is it possible that the caliper piston has sufficient length to allow the piston to contact the rotor if the inside brake pad had been left out? If so ... the hydraulic function could have remained intact...
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    My Mom insisted on bringing her new Subaru Outback Sport (Impreza) into Midas for an oil change... she knew the owner or manager or something. Well... they proceeded to drain her rear diff and refill it with motor oil and sent her on her way. Spewing black smoke, she flatbedded the car to the Subaru dealer (finally listening to me) who fixed her up and sent her on her way and telling her that there really was no damage done, and that she was lucky. Midas was of course, SO SORRY, and offered her... get this... a free oil change!!

    Avoid the chains... they really DON'T save you money... EVER.
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    I had a Sentra come in for a noise the other day. Well the drive belts were dry rotted and cracked,so the were replaced. The car had a few other problems that the customer was informed of prior to fixing the belts. Well they came back stating the noise was still their and wondering why the problem wasen't fixed... There were a couple of noises on the car that they were informed of an decided not to fix them. Then they come back blaming us for the noise not being fixed. Sometimes no matter how much you love working on cars having customers come back like that can make you not want to work on cars...
    Ohh and the customer that claims while the car was up on a lift part of the under panel was crushed!!! This is why I note everything on the ticket sometimes the service writers don't see that damage that was already there.. If you don't write it down your shop will be paying for damage someone else caused..

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    When I ran a shop we were often blamed for things we didn't do. If the car was missing a hubcap or had a fresh scratch we would try to notate that on the work order. Still, even that didn't work.

    " It never did that before you worked on it"

    Ever hear that one?

    Or the guy whose transmission started leaking right after we did a brake job?

    This guy complained so much that he went over my head and I had to do a reseal job on his transmission!!

    I remember the convertor o ring came out in pieces. Our fault....yeah, right!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well...maybe.

    Still, that would have made a LOT of noise!

    I still can't believe the story.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Buddy and I take in his '93 Bronco with 120000 miles on it to get howling rear diff replaced. Was told that CV joints on front driveshaft was worn. We said we'd be back next paycheck for CV joints. After spending almost $1000 for everything the truck won't start in the service bay. The shop leaves us alone to diagnose problem. We check inertia switch; fuses; go buy some gas etc.. After a while the shop manager,Karen, comes out and says we're not allowed to work on the truck ON THEIR LOT!!! She has US push the truck off the lot. As we're fuming wondering what to do, the original mechanic comes out and removes the skid plate and finds the wires he'd pinched/severed. My friend read the riot act to the manager and all she would reply was the insurance would cancel them if we were working on the truck and that Danny would be upset. I asked calmly if she understood why we were upset, she said, "no" and said the insurance baloney again.

    Don't use Dan's Driveline in Las Vegas. Thank You.
  • smoresmore Member Posts: 25
    How's this for competence? While on vacation, the starter on my Dodge Daytona started acting up. It still worked, but sometimes it would just click rather than engage. I drive it to a local shop near where we were staying and explain the problem. This car ran like a Honda. Just that the starter was acting up. When I go to pick up the car a few days later, the owner tells me that now the car doesn't run at all, and, although he replaced the starter, he thinks the whole wiring harness gave out. I fight and fight and fight with him saying the car always ran like a Honda. He won't give in saying he did nothing wrong. Picture this, we're on vacation, NEED A CAR, and have no way to get home with tons of luggage. Anyhow, this guy says if I leave the car, he will figure it out. I have no choice because the car won't run. I told him to put the old starter back in but he refused. Two weeks go by and I call him everyday. He changed EVERY computer, the fuel pump, the distributor and countless other parts. FInally, I say Fxxx this, take a day off of work, drive to where the car was, and arrange to have it flatbedded to a highly recommended diagnostic center. I explained the whole story to the diagnostic center, and within a half hour the car was running perfectly fine. The first idiot put in the WRONG STARTER and couldn't even figure out what he had done wrong. Needless to say I never paid him. But, the moral of the story, hold your ground (the first guy wanted me to junk the car stating that the wiring harness mysteriously went bad) and be careful where you bring your car! As the guy at the diagnostic center said (referring to the first place) "you have tire changers working on the electical system of your car!"
  • don434don434 Member Posts: 43
    Took my prior Suburban into a local repair shop. Engine had run a little rough for past two days. Noticed whiteish exhaust and sure enough could smell gasoline odor at exhaust pipe.
    Rather than hurting a newly installed artificial hip I elected to have a local repair shop change out the fuel pump. The mechanic looked at my vehicle and agreed that my fuel pump was bad.While signing the work authorization I remembered that my next oil change was almost due. I had them add a oil and filter charge to my order.
    This action cost me $1,000.00.

    After about 5 hours the shop called me and said that my engine needed a short block since it had suddenly started to rap. Couldn`t understand that but needed the car back for hospital transportation use so I agreed for this monster repair. It cost me about $1,000.00 extra for a fuel pump repair.

    Two weeks after my neighbor asked me about my braking down on Camp Meade Road - about three miles from my home and maybe three miles from the repair shop. When I questioned him about the date it was on the day of the fuel pump repair and about 3 1/2 hours after I dropped off my Suburban.

    Anyone suspect - like I do - that someone drained the oil and then the mechanic changed the fuel pump and then someone took it on the road for a test run or to bring back lunch. Runing a car without oil has been known to cause you to have a block replacement.
    Couldn`t prove it weeks later but they lost my business and I have advised everyone gassing up at a adjacent gas station of my suspicions. I took great care of my burb and would not have anyone else touch my baby but for my recent new hip. What goes around comes around!!
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    You must of had a better built Daytona then I had... My Daytona never ran like a Honda it ran like a Old Dodge!!!! I had a 87 Daytona took it to a Transmission Repair Shop for a rebuilt Trans. They found two motor mounts broken and so I told them to repair it. Well $1,500 spent on an old Dodge was not worth it, a few months later the whole body of the car started shaking sometimes it was hard for me to drive over twenty miles an hour... Well those two motor mounts that were broken must have somehow not been replace at all. Needless to say they refused to repair the mounts or even look at the car...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • smoresmore Member Posts: 25
    I know historically Dodge Daytona's were not good cars. I got extremely lucky because i had TWO that both ran like Hondas. The first one had 200k virtually trouble free and the second one had high mileage too. Chrysler 2.5 litre engines (definitely the non turbo one) are almost indestructible with regular oil chages. I just bought a Y2K Honda and already it's been loads of trouble, although most of that is from complete incompetence at the dealer. If Dodge still made Daytona, I'd be on my third! I don't deal well with car trouble or car dealers.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Yes, these are good engines. @.5 is just an enlarged 2.2. They occasionally blow head gaskets, but seem otherwise indestructible. I have a 2.5 liter 1990 Spirit with 145,000 miles with no problems.

    I don't think that the Japanese are necessarily any better. I think that owners do better maintenence on them, and since the resale value is higher, them tend to fix things when broken rather than junking the car.
  • arjay1arjay1 Member Posts: 172
    I may be wrong but I thought the 2.5l engine that Chrysler started using was sourced from Mitsubishi! I didn't think it was a relative of the old 2.2l but like I said, I may be remembering incorrectly.
  • smoresmore Member Posts: 25
    The 2.5 is a Chrysler engine, and, runs better than any Honda. I've had both I know. The 2.6 is probably what you're thinking of, that's a Mitsubishi engine. I've had about 5 Chryslers with 2.5 litres, they are like a modern slant six for reliability.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    The 2.5 is a longer-stroke version of the 2.2 engine. I agree that they are good engines but the head gasket replacements are disappointing. I have encountered a few with worn wrist pins which produce a very unpleasant metallic rattle at idle. Is the wrist pin problem widespread?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I like that ! :)
  • smoresmore Member Posts: 25
    I have two questions for you:

    1) Where do you work if you don't mind saying?
    2) Are all Honda dealers incompetent? The one by me is the WORST car dealership (in every aspect) I've ever dealt with

    TKs
  • smoresmore Member Posts: 25
    I didn't realize that metallic rattle you're referring to on the Chrysler 2.5L engine was worn wrist pins but I think it's totally harmless. I've had many, some with serious mileage, and never done anything more than a timing belt on any of them. I had one Daytona with 200K that I beat unmercifully for the last two years (expecting it to die anyhow) and it would not die. Never replaced a head gasket on any of them. I swear they're like the old Chrysler slant six... if not more reliable.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I don't use these forums to advertise and really try to do the opposite. If you REALLY want to know, e-mail me.

    I agree with you that the 2.5 Chrysler engine is a very good one. They do tend to blow an occassional head gasket, but so what? Replace it and drive another 100,000 miles.

    But...comparing it to the slant six? That might be going a bit far. They were one great engine!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Of course, all Honda service departments aren't incompetent! I'm sure you'll find the vast majority to do a great job.

    However,a shop is only as good as it's worst employee and things can happen even in the best of shops.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    We're getting a bit off topic but I agree, smore, that the "noisy" wrist pins can probably be ignored for 50K miles or more. Several reputable mechanics in my area were unable to diagnose this problem. In my stubborn pursuit, I found the worn wrist pins on a 2.2 engine which apparently had been driven hard. Cylinder surface condition was excellent and oil usage had been only slight. Replacement of the pistons and pins cured the problem. You are fortunate not to have become "better acquainted" with head gaskets on these cars. Thanks.
  • arjay1arjay1 Member Posts: 172
    Having never owned one or worked on one is my excuse. But being in my late 30's I am old enought to remember them. Here is my question:
    Why is that particular engine referred to as a "slant" six. The six part I understand, so I don't want any of your smart-[non-permissible content removed] replys regarding the number of cylinders (I know this group too well!) But feel free to haze me for my ignorance of the "slant" part. But please, after abusing me for my ignorance, remember to also answer the question.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    We're getting further and further from the "Incompetent Mechanics" stories that are the focus of this topic.

    How about you folks talking about the Chrysler engines go over to our Chrysler Reliability topic to continue?

    (We also have Honda topics galore if others of you want to continue that conversation in a more relevant forum.)

    Thanks.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    If you have ever seen under the hood of a slant six equipped car, you'd know why it was called that! They were installed slanted off to one side, on a slight angle.

    I'm just speculating here, but I'm guessing this was because the six was an old engine first designed when hoodlines were much taller. When styling changed, instead of designing a new engine, they decided to tilt it over a bit to make it less tall.

    And yes, I used to own a car with one (hasn't everyone)? It was a 1973 Plymouth Duster. I bought it back when I was in college, around 1985 or so, for $100. I had it for about a year when the frame rusted out and one of the torsion bar mounts broke off. I put it up on a street corner with a $50 price tag on it and sold it in about an hour. Guess I should have asked more!

    Dave
  • arjay1arjay1 Member Posts: 172
    I will to stay on topic but the fun of conversation is that it can move around a little. However, I will not embarrass myself by being seen in the "Chrysler Reliability" forum. That place is full of poor souls, like me, who where stupid enough to buy a Chrysler minivan and I am in denial that I am part of that crowd.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    :-)

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • papa4papa4 Member Posts: 2
    Before I begin, let me confess to a low IQ for owning a Jaguar. Jags are widely known to be unreliable and expensive to fix. Now, to the bad mechanic.

    Instrument display died on my 91 XJ6. Also had a nonfunctioning door lock and a knocking hydraulic system (rear leveling system)along with a couple of other small items. Took the car to Checkered Flag in Virginia Beach, VA. After $800 in diagnostics charges, they finally told me the instrument panel had a bad wire.
    The knocking sound from the rear was the hydraulic pump trying to level the car, but the rear end wouldn't hold the fluid since it was worn out. Dealer said I need a replacement rear end for $1100 (he admitted Jag didn't build them to last. The car has less than 60K miles.).

    The front passenger door lock would cycle but not unlock. Dealer said I needed a new lock motor. Dealer replaced motor, I took the car home, and the SAME problem occurred the next day. Took the car back, and dealer said they lubricated, aligned, and cleaned the system, but I have a bad "latch" which may cause the problem to recur, and they couldn't be responsible if that happened. Told me this when I came to pick up the car. I had two questions: why didn't you ask if I wanted to replace the "latch" while the car was there and being worked on; why was the door lock cycling the EXACT SAME WAY AFTER YOU "FIXED" it. I didn't need to be a Rhodes Scholar to determine the aligning/lubrication was all it needed in the first place. $400 gone.

    To top it all off, Checkered Flag wouldn't provide a loaner car while the car was in the shop. I had to buy my car there to get a free loaner. Of course, you can rent a car through the conveniently located Checkered Flag rental car office located in the dealership, which I did. Problem is, what was scheduled to be a four day fix/rental turned into the dealer making excuses for why my car repair was repeatedly delayed. First, it was parts. Then, a technician quit. 4 days turned into over 2 weeks!! And guess what--Checkered Flag wanted me to eat the cost of the rental car, despite the delays beign their fault. When I questioned the sanity, and conflict of interest,of asking the customer to pay rental costs from a dealer rental agency, when the dealer caused the delay, the service rep said he was "sorry." I told him I would not pay anything more than the originally scheduled 4 days. The service rep said he'd have to check with the service manager, and they agreed to only 4 days charges. But why did I have to fight on such a clear issue??

    Finally, the moral to this long story. Jaguars are notoriously unreliable, and they didn't improve much from 1991 to 1996 if Edmunds long term test drive results of a '96 XJ6 are any indication. Also, anyone doing business with Checkered Flag in Virginia Beach should be careful. My XJ6 is having problems again, and I'll flatbed it 75 miles to another dealer before leaving one more dime at Checkered Flag.
  • 93sentra93sentra Member Posts: 2
    My worst case scenerio of mechancs was from an incident involving a Chevy Sprint I once had--the horn wasn't working and I took it to several mechanics, but all the would do is scratch their heads. They put it up on the lift, fiddled
    with things, etc., but nobody could figure out what was wrong. After taking it to like three different places, I took it to a Chevy dealer who tried to convince me what I needed was an entirely
    new steering wheel, which would have to be ordered and which would cost $$$. I just looked
    at him and left.

    Later, in chatting with relatives about it, my sister, who knows even less about cars than I do, said something about, ``Isn't there a plug behind the front grill somewhere, near the radiator? Have you checked that, because sometimes you hit a bump and it can come loose.'' I went and checked and, sure enough, the ``plug'' for the horn had come unplugged. I plugged it back in
    and it worked fine after that.

    Seems to me that's my worst case scenerio of
    dealer rip off, though there were a few other
    instances in dealing with that car.
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Now that would be a good test for your dealer/mechanic. Break something like that and take your car in for an estimate.

    The one who says you don't need a repair and fixes this for little or no charge because it is so insanely simple is a shop you should keep around for a while.

    Cheers,

    TB
  • sugardogsugardog Member Posts: 41
    I thought that I was the only person experiencing problems with incompetant mechcanics and dealer bull****.
    I am very frustrated, where can a person take a car for maint and be assured that the work will be done properly and with no add-on problems?

    My problems are with Toyota, but this may be intrinsic with all car dealers and shops today.
    Without going into the horror stories, read above if you need that.
    The bottom line is, how can we as comsumers protect ourselves against this.
    One way is, before a shop does any work, get someone to inspect the car and sign a statement that the car is inspected and no problems exist, be specific as you can, list:
    leaking radiator?
    leaking CV boots?
    leaking tranny?

    When the car is picked up, do not pay the bill until you have a chance to inspect it yourself and
    do not accept it if you see any problem.

    The above is a lot of extra work, but it is a lot easier than going to small claims court.
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