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Thanks!
I had this item on my list when I took the car in for its first maintenance last summer and of course, I got the old "we couldn't duplicate it" bull. I guess it is hard to hear when the mechanic has the A/C on full blast and the stereo blaring at the threshold of human tolerance.
Anyway, please excuse my rant. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? I am completely ignorant of auto repair. And how can avoid the "cannot duplicate" excuse that the dealers always try to hand you?
I did have another "cannot duplicate" problem by the way. After the car sat overnight or at work for eight hours, when you first put it into gear, the car would shudder and hesitate as if it was going to stall. The dealer maintenance crew said that the diagnostic computer reported no irregularities. Well I guess I was just dreaming that it was happening EVERY SINGLE DAY because the computer's report is gospel! I tried 89 octane gas on my own, by coincidence, and the problem seems to have stopped. What gives?
BTW, the reason why I bought the Taurus was because I had a 93 Taurus GL as a company car, I put 90,000 miles on it in 2 1/2 years and had absolutely no problems with it whatsoever. Not even any weird noises. But I hear more noises with this car than at a "STOMP" concert!
Thanks for your advice.
The CV joint (actually the boot) goes around 60k.
The front end goes at 80k.
The car is actually a good car & safe. Just you will pay for it in the end.
They tell us we need a new tranny. Do we? Could this be electrical? Could there be some SMALL part of the tranny that could be fixed? (i.e. cheap??)
If we ditch it, we need something else. We are expecting our 4th child and we need something with more seats. Everyone says go with an Accord or a Camry. Our family wont fit. Is there anything out there with more seats and a decent repair history? HELP!!
Thanks,
Sarah and Tom
As for the '93, it sounds like the transmission is on it's last leg. You need to figure out what your car is worth and decide if it is worth it. Otherwise, use it as a trade-in.
Have you checked out our Sedans conference yet? That's probably the best place to find folks who are considering or have recently purchased a new Taurus. Try this topic: Ford Taurus. And you can also use the Topic Search feature on the left sidebar to find other conversations on the Taurus.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Is the car worth repairing and keeping? Otherwise the car has run well with few repairs (i.e., new batteries, tire, struts-last year, air conditioning) over the years. Thanks.
I saw a TSB with a title alluding to this problem so it must be a common problem. Unfortunately didn't see the TSB contents.
Does anyone know how expensive this is to repair? Does it require replacement parts? Can it be fixed at home? Does Ford have a secret warranty for this?
Thanks in advance.
Besides many small things we've had done on the car I have replaced the air conditioning, just replaced the radiator and now my most immediate problem is starting last summer my car would shut down in warm weather (humid, 80 degrees or above after driving for about 1.5 to 2 hours.
Once the car cools down and the weather does slightly the car will work again. Of course I have had this into several dealerships with no resolve.
I have suggested the head gasket (because of the recent recall) but they have insisted that this is not the problem.
My engine light goes on when this happens but leaves no codes in the computer. Of course because this is intermittent they can not give me any answer except, they can start replacing parts and wait to see if I know longer have the problem, which would be very expensive.
I no longer consider this car reliable and we are looking to get a Toyota Sienna, but plan on still keeping the car for around town driving as I know we will not get much for it.
Does anyone out there have this or have had this problem with their Taurus. I would love some feedback. Thanks
Now my Volvo problem was that in Ohio when the outside temperature reached 80 degrees, which doesn't happen often there, the car would stall even if it were moving. Again, the longer you let it cool down, the longer it would be until the next stall out. After one year of this, I dumped the car for a loss and found out a neighbor down the street bought it. Knowing more than I at that time in my life he explained that was what he did to fix the problem. And went on to about 250,000 miles.
Now the reason why the dealerships couldn't find the problem. Note, they always put the hood up to check the engine. This prevents the coil from overheating and shorting out. The coil of the Taurus is above everything in the engine compartment. Of course, when I told the Ford customer hot line, they told me what I could do with my solution.
One last part of the story is that when I went to my other brother-in-law's NAPA store to get my new ignition coil, a guy came in with the disassembled parts of a Taurus distributor in his hand. He said his problem was the engine kept stalling as he would wait at a stop light. I told him the Good news was that his distributor was not his problem. The Bad news was that I had just bought the last ignition coil that my brother-in-law had.
I had a problem once where the upper radiator hose had a very small crack right where it turns to enter the intake manifold. When the engine would torque, such as pulling away from a stop, a small stream of coolant would shoot out on the coil, stalling the engine for about 10 minutes until it dried out. It stalled several times with me standing there scratching my head until I finally figured it out.
Also, with the open frame coil, if you hit a large puddle hard enough, water would splash up on the coil and stall the engine.
I can't figure out Ford's decision in placement and type of coil in the older cars. It's a long way from the distributer, and it has no shielding from moisture.
That sounds a little fishy. If I were you, I would call the dealership and find out what went wrong with the transmission the first time. Or, call another dealership. They should be able to bring up the service history on the car. If the problem is the same, you absolutely have the right to complain. Otherwise, if the problem is not in any way connected, I'd say that "stuff" happens, and you shouldn't complain. Pay to get it fixed, and drive it home.
Then about two months ago, I started to get a squealing shrieking sound whenever I applied the brakes at slow speeds (i.e. when I am in reverse or slowly creeping along in bumper to bumper traffic). The sound is most certainly coming from the rear wheels. I took it back to Just Brakes and they took a look at it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. But the problem is still there. Any suggestions?????
Should I take it to the dealer or back to the chain?
Any help would be most most welcome
have always had a gas smell in the passenger
compartment in the summer time. I brought to the
dealer before the warranty was up and he said he
could not duplicate the smell. It happens after I
have been driving the car for 1/2 hour (highway),
less time in stop and go traffic. If the windows
are closed and the AC is on, it comes in through
the vents. When I get out of the car to check any
loose connections I can't smell it anywhere. Every
year it gets worse. Has anyone else experienced
this? Please help!
that a lot of owners of the 2000 Accord are having a lot of mechanical problems. They are complaining on the Accord Problems board here on Edmunds. There seems to be common problems with the transmission, some fuel 'boiling' problems, engine hesitation, rattles, and other problems like oil leaks etc. These problems are all on nearly-new 2000 Accords.
For those of you who have purchased a 2000 Taurus,
have you had any mechanical problems? I'm not concerned with older Taurus', just trying to get a feel of how the new 2000 Taurus's holding up.
Thanks in advance for the info!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I have a friend who used to work at Ford as a mechanic. He said that the transaxle control module needs to be reprogramed at a Ford dealership. When I took it to the dealership, they told me the transaxle has internal damage and that the motor mounts are shot. My friend says they're full of it.
Has anyone heard of this?
opinions on the car: too much wind noise; the upgrade sound system isn't worth the money; looks better without the spoiler.
203k on your car - wow - I never had a car last that long myself. Is your transmission an automatic and is it original to the car?
A friend of mine recently picked up an '88 taurus wagon.
How has this car been for you? (repair history?)
Have done a heater core replacement on my car about 9 months ago. What a pain in the you know what! I had to literally rip the whole dashboard out of the way..... took about 6 hours total time for the entire job. I don't have a/c in this car.
It would be quicker to get a plug in heater, however, I would doubt that it would be helpful to defrost the windshield in winter. I live in NJ so a properly working defroster was necessary for me.
If your car is equipped with air conditioning, this will have to be ripped into as well because the evaporator is close to the heater core. Both come out together. It will require a mechanic to deal with the freon, etc.
If it were me, and the car does not have a/c, then I would replace the heater core.
If your winters are not too bad, then a plug in heater would probably get you by for awhile.
With 203k miles, how much life is really left with this car?
BTW, an underseat heater like the one in my 55 Buick would be perfect. It's very flat with a circular core and a short squirrel cage fan, and the hose connectors go through the floorboard and connect to the hoses under the car. If you could locate one in a classic car junkyard it could be a solution.
I have a '95 Taurus GL that has 94,700 miles on it. I have maintenance performed regularly on it and so far so good. However...my car has developed a front-end vibration that appears on acceleration around 40mph and disappears at approximately 45mph. The tires are in good shape and I have had my brakes worked on. (The problem appeared before the brake work.) Any ideas as to what this could be? Thanx, Anne
Thanks!
Tracey