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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair
Hi! my name is tatchy. I have question about
Taurus. What should I know about Taurus' repair and
maintenance when I purchase or lease it? Would you
please answer me!
Taurus. What should I know about Taurus' repair and
maintenance when I purchase or lease it? Would you
please answer me!
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never hold it contents long enough. How Ford escaped environmental class action suite - that what makes me wonder.( I forgot, 20 bil in cash reserves probably outweigh big hole in ozone layer).
Three transmissions,2nd engine,Every time I
have the a/c repaired it lasts one season then
springs a new leak.
Numerous other problems. I don,t drive my vehicles
hard and they are well maintained.
Run as fast as you can from a Taurus
Check this out
miles. It was used when I got it with about a year and 10,000 miles on the original 5yr/60000 warranty. It was fine until 65,000.......then all trouble. If I wasn't an old mechanic it would have been in the junkyard long ago. Just a brief list:
All catalytic converters replaced at 70,000 (there is 3 on this model).
AC work at about 80,000
Trans rebuild at 125,000 (from what I hear this was really good mileage for the original trans)
All catalytic converters replaced again at 135,000 (this time I found the reason-front converters are to close to the exhaust ports-the input side of the converter gets to hot and breaks down. They did this to get the converters hot enough to operate without having air injection)
At about the same time, did major tune up work- cap, wires, plugs, injectors, fuel pump, some faulty sensors.
This is only the major stuff. I estimate the cost of maintenance would have been 8-10K if I had to pay regular price.
I like driving the car and its good for long trips (if your not to nervous about breakdowns).
Uh-oh!! Something in the front end is making noise! Here I go again!!
Has anyone ever changed the power steering hoses on one of these monsters? It's a nightmare with the hoses snaking all over the place.
I'm debating to go ahead and trade or fix the problems and keep awhile. I think I owe more than its worth. Opinions?
Does the engine sometimes start hard or turn over slow due to water in a cylinder? How much coolant are you using? Do you need to put it in daily? Do a cooling system pressure check to see if any leaks are apparent. Don't forget to check heater core area. Also, look at seals between plastic side tanks on radiator and radiator core itself-if its moist or there are coolant tracks it could be time for a radiator.
Also, on 3.8 check the upper radiator hose where it turns to go into gooseneck on intake-sometimes the hose develops a hairline crack here, but only leaks when the engine torques.
Your AC problem sounds like it isn't too bad. Has motor mount been replaced?
100K on a 95 is a good bit of mileage, about 25K a year. What kind of driving do you do? City or country? It makes a big difference.
I did the repair myself, but had a shop rebuild the heads. It was about $300 for the head work, all the exhaust valves were replaced, and heads were surfaced. You have to replace the head bolts, they aren't re-usable. This is not an easy job on a Taurus. It's difficult to get to the rear head and exhaust manifold.
One thing though, double check that upper hose where it goes into the manifold. I've had two cars that leaked there, but only when the engine torqued. It wouldn't leak just idling or off, even when the cooling system was pressurized! On one car, the coolant would stream out when you pulled away from a stop and squirt right on the ignition coil, causing the engine to stall! This was on an 88, I don't know if a 95 has an exposed coil or if it is in the same position.
I think most of these cars, along with the Mercury Sable, end up in the junk yard before their time, not just for mechanics, but because of the lousy paint, especially the metallics. My 88 LX has 147,000 now, but I can do most of the work myself and know the car real well. I don't work as a mechanic anymore, but did for years, so most repairs I can do myself. I wouldn't tackle the transaxle, had that rebuilt at a shop ($1800!). Since we're a "throw away society" now anyway, most people don't do major repairs, just buy something new.
Is it worth repairing and keeping a high mileage Taurus/Sable? Depends on the person. I like to get at least 150K on a car. I once figured that the cost of the repairs I did were considerably less than buying new. My 88 looks real good (has been painted), runs strong, uses only normal amount of oil between changes (1 quart, with changes every 3,000), and the velour interior has worn like iron. I've never had any trouble with electronics or vacuum controls, which I consider
one of the most frustating things to repair. I did disconnect the heater because the core started leaking. I just can't bring myself to taking the dash out to get to the core. In So. Cal. we really don't need heaters anyway! Good luck!
If so, what will you spend for an engine overhaul or (even better) a new engine vice a new car? The other items you mentioned are pretty much normal maintenance items. You got 90,000 miles on it. Not great, but in all, not bad either!
If not, give to an approved charity and take the tax write off. Then spend the money as an upgrade to an option on your new car.
Rick
It was a bad pickup in the distributor. Under $60
150,000 miles and still going...
Rick
If the head gasket was leaking badly for a long time it could cause bearing failure.
The noise most often happens when you brake and then as soon as you release the brake....that ring goes back into the frame and makes a very loud thud. It won't make the noise until you release the brake. I am thinking about welding the ring to the subframe to keep it from happening. Has anyone else experienced this noise? There are also other loud thunking noises that seem to come from the struts.
I have had many front suspension noises. Most were easy to fix. Also, check parking brake cable coupling on left rear almost under back left door. If its loose or the cushion pad on the frame is worn through, it can bump against the body/frame and cause a noise when going over bumps, etc. Of course the brake has to be off.
In addition, worn inner tie rod ends on the steering rack can cause front end noises.
Let me know if you find a solution. I have a noise that sounds similiar to what you describe, but it seems to be more bump related than brake related. I haven't found the source yet, but it's getting worse.
It is the lower strut support bar that I'm referring to. You can see the bushings standing, if you look (flashlight helpful) in front of the right front wheel, just beyond the corner of the subframe. A ford mechanic told me that those will go because of the oil changes and getting oil on the bushings breaks them down....but this noise is definitely metal on metal, ie the ring going in and out of the frame.
Two transmissions
Both steering racks and steering pump
Electrical problems that affected the horn and cruise control
Early replacements of radiator hoses and drive belts
Head gasket
And now there is no compression in cylinder number four. We are shopping for a new car and you get bet your entire net worth that we are not even considering an American manufacturer. Don't but a Taurus!
3 trannys, 2 sets of tie-rod ends, struts, motor mounts, recalls, rust, leaky oil seals, air bag problems, electrical malfunctions, poor mileage, slowness (w/a V-6?!)
The dealers say I should be glad I don't have the 3.8L V-6, it blows head gaskets! FoMoCo has given me the runaround, if they respond at all. The dealer network sucks...etc...
The car has been babied, garage kept, in the south for 3 years (no snow, no salt) washed, waxed, oil changed every 3-4K, etc...
WILL NEVER BUY another UAW made/American car. Had enough of their BS, poor quality and workmanship.
Don't know why I waited so long! I was stubborn, thinking I was doing the "right thing" by supporting an industry that my whole family has or still works in. My grandfather was hired by Henry Ford Sr. to work in the River Rouge steel plant in Detroit. Big Deal. Ford could give a crap about that when I try to tell them I shouldn't have to pay for a 3rd tranny because the dealer didn't install tranny #2 properly...
Idiots!
Junk
Did I say JUNK!
I give up, throwing in the towel. My new Toyota Camry REALLY makes my Ford seem like junk!
My Toyota was built in KY, USA (non-UAW) my Dodge truck was built in Mexico!
Things are getting confusing folks...Better check where YOUR car was built!
Just be aware that the dealer won't want your car either. They know the troubles with them, so start writing your own blues songs now!
The good news...Wait till you drive your first Camry or Accord V-6........................WOW!
After reading here on the net of trans problems with the Taurus, we have decided to trade it in. We put a sizeable down payment, so we are ahead of depreciation. We looked at a '99 ZX2 and are happy with the value. Call me a glutten for punishment if you will, but the plan is to trade it also around the end of its warranty.
Will post later to let you all know what happened.
Faron.
My Tortoise problems were/are very similar. Bad news is that they may not give you much on trade. And my experience witrh the dealers and FoMoCo is horrible, they have a &*%$ you attitude!
Good news is: Wait till you see how nice a Camry V-6 drives!
And ignore GUS, he's obviously never driven a V-6 Accord or Camry, they are a blast and will indeed be reliable. If the costs of maintenance and gas are that much of a concern, go for the Civic or Corolla. But whatever the costs are with these cars, they'll be LESS than the Tortoise!
Once you drive the V-6 Accord or Camry you'll never look back...
I like the Camry but can't get into one for under 22% interest.
This really helped my decision.
Dumped the Tortoise today for an Escort ZX2 HOT.
Nice car. Rides a rougher than the Tortoise
but has a brand new warranty.
Thanks again.
My 3.0L Toyota leaves my 3.0L TORTOISE in the last county...
Our Tortoise can't even get out of it's own way!
I'll take on any 3.8L Tortoise with my Camry as well, it blows their doors off. My Bro-in-law is unlucky enough to have a Sable 3.8L which he just got new head gaskets on ($$$). Even with the new gaskets it's wheezing to keep up with my USA built Toyota.
Compare the Honda 4cyl to the Taurus 4cyl...if you can still find one that runs!
Furthermore, you'd be surprized at the new Accord 4cyl. it just may keep up with your 3.8!
But...lets keep this a fair fight, ay?
apples to apples!
The first time I ever heard it called a Tortoise was by a high ranking FoMoCo employee in Detroit!
They are well aware of the vehicle's shortcomings!
The Escort, one of the best in the FoMoCo lineup (reliability) is to be scrapped!
No sense!
I really considered the Taurus sedan until I saw it up close. It looked like a "Fart in a Bubble".
I very quickly passed it up.
LSC
Now, the concern: transmission has started occasionally "clunking" or "jolting" when decelerating at about 45-50 mph. Happens less than daily, but last time it did the jolt was fairly pronounced. Also, vague feeling of soft torque-converter lock up when accelerating in same speed range. Is my ATX on the way out, or is there some adjustment possible? Anyone hazard as to how long I have to go, or know how much it costs to rebuild?
I work on Toyotas. I've driven many V6 Camrys, and I've driven several V6 Accords. I'm not saying they're not a blast to drive. I'm not saying that they're not good, reliable cars. I'm saying that the power is negligible if you're looking for a practical car.
If the costs of maintenance and gas are that much of a concern, go for the Civic or Corolla.
You're restating my point. Take this into consideration. 60k service for a mid-90s Camry includes a timing belt, valve adjustment, coolant change and fuel filter. On a four-cylinder Camry, the cost is under $1000, perhaps $750. On a six-cylinder Camry, the cost is over double that.
Gus
Conference Host
By the way, my persistent front end noise finally turned out to worn front sway bar links. Very hard to diagnose.
I won't say that a Taurus is a "reliable" car in the strictest sense of the word, but I've never had this type of long term use with any Toyota I owned (never had a Honda, so can't comment there). The interiors fell apart sooner, and the body got very loose causing a lot of rattles and noises. Could be that newer models are better. Mechanically, my Toyotas were more reliable, but they were no easier or less expensive to service than anything else.
I thought folks bought Toyotas and Hondas for low cost of ownership? Whats the book time for V6 service...15 hours? You could drop the subframe and remount in that time; It can't be that hard to work on. I suspect Toyota service departments are making money on this one.
I agree on the V6 vs 4 cyl statement. I don't believe many folks buying the V6 in these cars stop to calculate the increased fuel costs and maintenance costs over the long term.
I would compare the '93 V6 Accord to my '93 V6 Sable, if one existed. The V6 option was not added until 1995 for the Accord (according to what I found on Edmunds.) Shouldn't we compare similar age cars. It isn't exactly fair to compare the '95 newly redesigned ('94) model of the Accord to the older generation Taurus. The '91 and '93 were the same generation of the Accord. I think it is very fair to compare my Sable to my dad's Accord because the design of the '91 Accord was still sold in '93. OK, compare the '95 V6 Accord to the '95 V6 Taurus. That is okay. My comparison was between the '93 versions... and my Sable kicked some rear!!!
Zachy:
Comparing a V-6 to a 4 for acceleration is ridiculous at any age or year. Compare similar items is all I'm saying!
Gus:
There is no scheduled maintenance at 60K on my Toyota, period. AND, it's no longer recommended to change any timing belt either. I do know dealer that'll take as much as they can from you fro "scheduled maintenance"...
You are still missing my point. Back in 1993, when my car was made, there was no V6 Accord. There was only a 4 cylinder Accord. Shouldn't you compare similar year cars. It isn't exactly fair to compare the engine of a 1998 car to the engine in a 1993 car now is it? If you want to make that comparison, sure maybe the 1998 Accord is more powerful than my 1993 Sable, but the 1998 Sable is most likely more powerful than a 1993 Accord.
You should only compare similar cars. What you are doing is what most people do. I constantly read people saying that their new Accord or Camry is much better than their early 80's Chevy. Well, IT SHOULD BE!!! Newer cars are generally more powerful, more fuel efficient, and safer.