Right concept. But it's the valve's opening and closing times relative to the position of the pistons that are controlled by the belt and the overhead cam. When the valves open and the piston moves to the top in some engines, the piston hits the valves. Very hard on the valves and pistons. This causes damage and broken parts which might go on to break other parts.
Best to keep belts up-to-date on service.
Don't become alike Cavalier on the interstate I saw... A car of young adults pulled over into the left lane in front of me. Apparently he gunned the motor to accelerate to pull in front of me. After he moved over there was a cloud of blue smoke and oil mist. Then there were pieces of metal that I was running over with my Michelins. Apparently his motor blew up. I couldn't see due to the haze. My windshield was covered with oil. My wife had just had day surgery and we were on the way home. Scary experience with other traffic on the 2-lane interstate at normal speeds.
The Camry 4-cylinder engine, at least from 1997-2001 (and probably 1992-1996) is a non-interference design, so if the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves don't collide. There will be no engine damage, but of course the engine will quit on the spot.
I had the timing belt break prematurely on my 1980 Volvo 240. It also had a non-interference engine, so no damage was done. Still, it was a major hassle because we were on our way on a short vacation trip. The belt broke on a main city street in Baltimore. I didn't immediately know what happened, but all the warning lights went on. Thinking fast, I had my wife immediately make a right turn onto a quiet side street before the car lost momentum.
This was in 1990, before cell phones were common, so we had to find a phone and locate the nearest Volvo dealer. Luckily they sent both a tow truck and a "chase" car, so my wife and sons didn't have to be crammed into the tow truck. Needless to say, we cut our vacation short and just went to an Orioles baseball game that evening.
Toyota upped the timing belt replacement interval to 90K miles as of the 1998 model year.
I have the same problem. If the car has not been run for couple of hours and i then try to turn it on, I can hear a lound noise. I have a 2002 camry xle 2002 and it is V4.
What on the earth is a logical reasoning that since it is a V4, there will be a noise in the engine at a startup?
Hello! I have a 2000 Camry and I have over 115K on her. TheCheck Engine Light came on around 70K for or the first time and I was told by the dealership that some chip needed to be replaced and I got it done promptly. C/E light comes on again around 95 K and it was the catalytic converter that time, supposedly (I am still not sure if people had their C?E lights coming ofn for coverters...) Got that addressed too. Now, I have the c/e light on again and I am being told that my tranny needs replacement and that It is gonna come to $3200. Never had any issues otherwise all these days and she has been a trusted companion on all occasions. I wonder if I am being painted the true picture here. :confuse: Just curious to see if anyone else had similiar issues. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank You! --njexpress
After 450 miles the engine is a little noisy. I went by the dealer and listened to the same V-6 3.3L in a Highlander. The Highlander did have a noticible pecky valve noise, but I had to lean over the engine to hear it.
On my SE V-6 you can hear it through the firewall.
I just came out of a 2003 Avalon with the 3.0 V-6. That engine was much quieter. Was there some type of lifter change in the 3.3L or the 2005 model year?
I am definitely looking to get a second opinion. Yes, for some reason, Check Engine Light did not add up to a new Tranny / TransAxle?!?!? Thanks again for getting back. I will post my findings after I find out more. Cheers!! --NJEXPRESS:)
After some searching on the web, I did learn that the OBD II (2nd generatio on-board diagnostics) can pull information from any system tied to the vehicles computer, which would include the transmission. However, you still need to get that 2nd opinion before spending that much. Good luck.
I had a similar problem immediately after I bought a certified used 1999 camry with a 2.2 liter engine last year. The dealership replaced something they called the idle control module, even though it tested okay, and that solved the problem.
Pleeeease Helppppp!! I'm having the same problem. My car started but the battery light came on and continued to flicker along with flickering abs and dash lights. Went home and restarted car but now no lights come on. Only dome ,chime, seatbelt and door light. Checked fuses. What should I look for? Any suggestions? Has any one given you any suggestions?
'97 Camry 4 cyl., 147k (timing belt done less than a year ago).
I hate to ask what could be a simple question and issue, atleast I would love to hear so! But any help from you will be greatly appreciated. For past few months my '97 camry has started showing symptoms that something is not right somewhere and calling for the attention. The problem is as follows and I think its related to the power steering system (I could be gravely mistaken though).
(a) When the steering wheel is turned at haste (or even moderately quicker) towards either side, it gives out a screeching noise (like a high pitch sound) coming from under the hood and lasting no more than a fraction of a second. I have seen that if I am careful and turn the steering rather slowly & steadily, then no such sound results.
(b) Sometimes, during the instances when sound mentioned above results, it also accompanies with internal resistance from the steering system whereby, for a moment it becomes almost impossible to turn the wheel any further (kind of the wheel refuses to turn any more). The good thing is, this frozen wheel lasts just for a fraction of a second and then it fixes itself and sets the steering loose so that it can be once again manipulated.
Both these symptoms do not occur each time I am turning the wheel, but happens at least few times every day. Over the past months, the problems has NOT worsened (as in, it's occurance has not become more frequent now than what it was a few months ago) and my power steering fluid reservoir is always to the level where it should be. I also feel that during winter mornings, the problem was more frequent during the initial few minutes that the car warms up, but got better once the car had already warmed up.
Thanks for reading the post and any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
"When the steering wheel is turned at haste (or even moderately quicker) towards either side, it gives out a screeching noise (like a high pitch sound)..."
Sounds like your steering pump belt is slipping (I assume it runs off the serpentine belt). Has it ever been replaced?
Thanks Imacmil; I had the dealer change all the belts under the hood during last timing belt replacement (less than a year ago). I would have to check on this but, I dont recall him calling for the power steering belt as one of the belts replaces. Is this belt visible once you pop open the hood? thereby I can atleast check by its looks compared to the other belts and determine if it was ever replaced?
MY check engine light came on at 55000. The dealer said it would cost $502 and was an EGR valve, VSV and a diaphram. The $502 didn't include the diaphram. What could happen if I ignore the repairs?
I had a brake job done 9/04 includes pads resurface rotors, etc. The brakes squeeked from the first day. They are Wagner ThermoQuiet #562. I've been back 4 times. The rotors have been resurfaced 2 times. A new pair of pads were installed last week. Still squeek. Is there a solution besides turning up the volume on the radio? Thanks.
I don't know if the steering pump is driven by the serpentine belt or it own. If you can find the steering pump reservoir (which you should because it has a filler cap) and follow the hose coming out the bottom to the pump, you should be able to tell if it's got its own belt or not. I just looked at my 3.3 liter and it appears to have its own belt but it's so darn crowded, it's difficult to tell.
If you ignore the CEL, you will be spewing more pollutants and probably reduce your gas mileage. Engine my run rough also.
The solution to your brake squeal is probably to use Toyota pads. The aftermarket pads were not developed specifically for your vehicle which may be why they are noisy. Most OE pads have a thin, rubber coated shim on the steel side to reduce noise.
I forgot to include in my original post that the engine check light goes on for a few days, then goes off for a week, then repeats the cycle. The muffler like sound is a bit louder -- like a muffler pin hole may make. My engine runs smoothly, the gas mileage hasn't changed. The pollutants are the real problem!
The check engine light came on yesterday in my 2003 V6 Toyota Camry. After reading some of the posts here, I took it to an Advanced Auto Parts store and had them scan the DTC code. It came up as P2238 (02 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Positive Current Circuit Low).
Could someone please help me interpret this result? Does this mean that an oxygen sensor is shot? What kind of repair bill might be associated with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
It does sound like it's the power steering belt or pump. If it's just the belt that could be a cheap fix. It's kind of hard to find...on my 99 camry it's connected to the drive belts and runs down below. It's hard to see anything in that area due to the cover over the timing belt. Even if it was fine when it was last checked it seems like it may be an easy fix for your problem. It could be some other problem with the steering as well, but belts do often cause a screech.
It might be best to have them check that the oxygen sensor or fuel/ratio sensor (depending on the car) is working properly. They can do this by checking the resistence. If you can find out what the normal resistence is either you or the local auto store people could check it. You may also be able to check the wires to it and make sure they're ok. A new 02 sensor is really easy to put in yourself, but you dont' want to do it unless you have to because they're around $200 or so. It also depends if it's the upstream or downstream 02 sensor. I would think a repair bill wouldn't be any more than a hour of work...took me 5 minutes to change mine (if that).
Thanks for the response. I replaced the IAC valve (careful autozone.com sent the wrong one for my model car) and it worked like magic. The cold start problems were gone. I've heard lots of people say cleaning them out works...but I guess mine was too far gone.
I've had a problem that when it's wet out or a drive through a puddle there is a sever vibration from below the car. Usually only when I go through a puddle, but more recently it's happened when it's just wet out or was wet out recently. I just had my tires alligned and balance and checked for problems. So ruling out tires...any ideas what could be causing this? Could water be getting somewhere it shouldn't?
"the engine check light goes on for a few days, then goes off for a week, then repeats the cycle."
The CEL will usually go out after a certain number of starts without detecting a fault. Probably means whatever is causing the light isn't totally failed yet but dying slowly. Btw, did you know that a loose gas cap can cause a CEL?
I'll admit I had a really difficult time getting the o2 sensor out. Fortunately, it was in a really good spot to put a lot of pressure on it without the possibility of damaging any other parts on the car. Your supposed to do it when the car is cool, but I did it shortly after driving...probably made it harder.
The biggest thing is to find the code...a gas cap can give a p0441...or somemthing similar which relates to the evaporative emmissions system. A gas cap can be on tight but still cause the problem if the rubber seal is deteriorated.
My 1995 V6 XLE Camry has a problem with automatic transmission. I cannot shift it out of park. I have had the same problem a few times during the nine years I have owned the car, but the problem was always transient before, lasting just a few seconds before the gear shift started behaving again. I have parked the car for almost two years (it worked fine when I parked it). But I put in a new battery yesterday, turned the engine on (engine started perfectly), but could not shift the car out of park. Why did this happen, and how do I fix it? :confuse:
The same thing is happening on my 03 Camry. Started with the driver side front door, now is happening to front passenger side and rear driver side. Am going to the dealer this weekend.
When it first happened, I was under warranty. They said an actuater had gone bad, and replaced that. Guess now I need it done to all the other doors too.
Am going to be a pain about them fixing this, because I think it's a safety issue. When I get in the car with my daughter neither the look control on the door or the remote will lock or unlock the doors - they have to be adjusted manually.
Hi, I'm new to this post, so I'll keep this quick. My wife's got a '99 solara sle with 120,000 miles. She took it in yesterday for the scheduled service (hasn't missed one yet). She's driving today and car suddenly makes loud whirring noise and doesn't respond correctly. After driving back to the dealership, she eventually is told that the transmission broke and it's a fluke and it's $3,300 for a new transmission but they'll discount it to $2,700. I've heard a little talk about the damage that can be caused by flushing the system and I refuse to believe that this is a "fluke" and it could have happened at any time. Can anyone give me some quick advice or help with this? I've got to make a decision fast. Thank you all in advance!
During the day my brake light works fine, but at night when the brakes are applied the brake light comes on but and goes back off when the brakes are released. Can anyone help me?
It has about 57,000 miles on it, so I don't think it will covered under warranty. Bummer! I am going to take it in to a dealership tomorrow. Thanks for you reply.
Any little thing could set off the check engine light. If the engine is running fine, your gas mileage is fine, just go ahead disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and reconnect it. In most cars, the check engine light goes away.
If you have a persistant problem like vaccum leaks or sensor problems, then the light comes back. This will save you some unnecessary trip to the dealer.
My front Driverside door went a month after the warranty expired. A month after that, the rear driver-side door. I can live with manual mode if it cost too much to fix. Anyone know what replacing each of these little actuators will be ? If it's common, I'd call that a defect and kind of expect Toyota to isse a bulleting on them to fix them for free. That is, if they want me to buy my third Camry.
Just checked with the dealer who says each actuator is $205 and 80 per door to install. 2 Doors x 300 per door , $600. Is this a common problem ? If so, I've bought my last Camry.
My Camry had 54000 miles and out of warranty when the check engine light came on. The warranty was for 36,000 miles. I talked to the dealer's warranty manager.She offered to "participate" in the repair. Meaning: the dealer will pay for the labor if I pay for the parts. You might want to ask the dealer's warranty manager if they will "participate" in the repair of your Camry although your car may be out of warranty. If the repair is expensive enough you may want to reread your Owner's Warranty Information booklet which came with the car. Mine has a Customer Assistance Center phone number (1-800-331-4331) which may be the phone number of a warranty person at the national level. Good luck!
The drivers side door handle will not open the door. How do you take the door handle apart to fix the problem? I can tell that a wire came off of the door handle on the inside but could not get to fix it by taking the door panel of on the inside. Is there a way to remove the handle from the outside to fix the problem?
I have 98 XLE Camary. The CD player works fine but the Cassete player and Radio do not work. The audio display shows the correct frequency etc for Radio but no sound is comming for Cassete player or Radio. I have seen this problem another Camary as well.
Is this something that I can fix on my own or do I need to buy a new Music system.
Hi, I'm looking to bye my first camry. I test drove the car today (2000 LE 2.2 v4) and it seems to handle well and sound good. The car has 57K miles and seems to be well kept apart from some pretty stained carpets. Here's the question. It has a small oil leak which the owner says he had checked and it is a rear oil seal problem and should be a cheap fix (about $200) Does anyone know if this is a normal problem with 2000's or could it be something else? And, should this prevent me from buying the car? Please help!!!!
The other day I shifted my camry into reverse, then the car just immediately cut off. But I noticed if I shifted into reverse and gave the car some gas quickly it wouldnt cut off but it jerked while in motion. Then I tried driving it today and now it cutsoff just sitting at a stop light along with the reverse problem metioned . Any one have any suggestions of what might be the problem? I also have an engine light illuminated.
I have a 2005 Camry SE and I would like to know if there is a way to get rid of that annoying seat belt chime. I always use my seat belt but I don't use it in the driveway or parking in a tight spot and then you have to listen to it ding about 50 times before it shuts off. Is there a way to disconnect it? Thanks.
My mom owns a 2004 LE with a 4-cyl. Today she went to start the car and it wouldn't start! What are some possibilities? Car is full of gas. Battery is charged.
Car started perfectly fine in the morning, was reversed and parked, shut off. Family cleaned the car. The ignition was set to "accessories" so they could listen to the Radio. When they tried to start the car, it turned over fine, cranked fine, made no funny noises, but it would not start. They tried to start it over a period of 5 hours. Obviously after 5 hours, the battery is now drained.
My mom has had trouble like this one before, at the car wash. Car was shut off at the car wash. Car was washed. When they went to start it again, it wouldn't start. After 15 minutes of waiting, they tried again and it started fine. Took it to the dealer and they found nothing wrong.
Tomorrow car will be towed to Toyota. I HOPE it doesn't start so they can find a problem. This is serious. Imagine being on the highway, stopping for a break, then trying to start and it won't. I'm VERY dissappointed with Toyota, I think they are a great company and we plan on buying either a Highland or 4runner soon.
Comments
Best to keep belts up-to-date on service.
Don't become alike Cavalier on the interstate I saw... A car of young adults pulled over into the left lane in front of me. Apparently he gunned the motor to accelerate to pull in front of me. After he moved over there was a cloud of blue smoke and oil mist. Then there were pieces of metal that I was running over with my Michelins. Apparently his motor blew up. I couldn't see due to the haze. My windshield was covered with oil. My wife had just had day surgery and we were on the way home. Scary experience with other traffic on the 2-lane interstate at normal speeds.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I had the timing belt break prematurely on my 1980 Volvo 240. It also had a non-interference engine, so no damage was done. Still, it was a major hassle because we were on our way on a short vacation trip. The belt broke on a main city street in Baltimore. I didn't immediately know what happened, but all the warning lights went on. Thinking fast, I had my wife immediately make a right turn onto a quiet side street before the car lost momentum.
This was in 1990, before cell phones were common, so we had to find a phone and locate the nearest Volvo dealer. Luckily they sent both a tow truck and a "chase" car, so my wife and sons didn't have to be crammed into the tow truck. Needless to say, we cut our vacation short and just went to an Orioles baseball game that evening.
Toyota upped the timing belt replacement interval to 90K miles as of the 1998 model year.
What on the earth is a logical reasoning that since it is a V4, there will be a noise in the engine at a startup?
I have a 2000 Camry and I have over 115K on her. TheCheck Engine Light came on around 70K for or the first time and I was told by the dealership that some chip needed to be replaced and I got it done promptly. C/E light comes on again around 95 K and it was the catalytic converter that time, supposedly (I am still not sure if people had their C?E lights coming ofn for coverters...) Got that addressed too. Now, I have the c/e light on again and I am being told that my tranny needs replacement and that It is gonna come to $3200.
Never had any issues otherwise all these days and she has been a trusted companion on all occasions.
I wonder if I am being painted the true picture here. :confuse: Just curious to see if anyone else had similiar issues. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You!
--njexpress
I thought the c/e light related to the emission system. Go to Autozone and have them pull the code. I would get a 2nd opinion for sure.
On my SE V-6 you can hear it through the firewall.
I just came out of a 2003 Avalon with the 3.0 V-6. That engine was much quieter. Was there some type of lifter change in the 3.3L or the 2005 model year?
Anybody else notice this condition?
Thanks again for getting back. I will post my findings after I find out more.
Cheers!!
--NJEXPRESS:)
4 cyl., 147k (timing belt done less than a year ago).
I hate to ask what could be a simple question and issue, atleast I would love to hear so! But any help from you will be greatly appreciated. For past few months my '97 camry has started showing symptoms that something is not right somewhere and calling for the attention. The problem is as follows and I think its related to the power steering system (I could be gravely mistaken though).
(a) When the steering wheel is turned at haste (or even moderately quicker) towards either side, it gives out a screeching noise (like a high pitch sound) coming from under the hood and lasting no more than a fraction of a second. I have seen that if I am careful and turn the steering rather slowly & steadily, then no such sound results.
(b) Sometimes, during the instances when sound mentioned above results, it also accompanies with internal resistance from the steering system whereby, for a moment it becomes almost impossible to turn the wheel any further (kind of the wheel refuses to turn any more). The good thing is, this frozen wheel lasts just for a fraction of a second and then it fixes itself and sets the steering loose so that it can be once again manipulated.
Both these symptoms do not occur each time I am turning the wheel, but happens at least few times every day. Over the past months, the problems has NOT worsened (as in, it's occurance has not become more frequent now than what it was a few months ago) and my power steering fluid reservoir is always to the level where it should be. I also feel that during winter mornings, the problem was more frequent during the initial few minutes that the car warms up, but got better once the car had already warmed up.
Thanks for reading the post and any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like your steering pump belt is slipping (I assume it runs off the serpentine belt). Has it ever been replaced?
I had a brake job done 9/04 includes pads resurface rotors, etc. The brakes squeeked from the first day. They are Wagner ThermoQuiet #562. I've been back 4 times. The rotors have been resurfaced 2 times. A new pair of pads were installed last week. Still squeek. Is there a solution besides turning up the volume on the radio? Thanks.
The solution to your brake squeal is probably to use Toyota pads. The aftermarket pads were not developed specifically for your vehicle which may be why they are noisy. Most OE pads have a thin, rubber coated shim on the steel side to reduce noise.
Thanks for the brakes advice.
I forgot to include in my original post that the engine check light goes on for a few days, then goes off for a week, then repeats the cycle. The muffler like sound is a bit louder -- like a muffler pin hole may make. My engine runs smoothly, the gas mileage hasn't changed. The pollutants are the real problem!
Thank you.
Could someone please help me interpret this result? Does this mean that an oxygen sensor is shot? What kind of repair bill might be associated with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The CEL will usually go out after a certain number of starts without detecting a fault. Probably means whatever is causing the light isn't totally failed yet but dying slowly. Btw, did you know that a loose gas cap can cause a CEL?
That is if you can get the old one out. I couldn't once when I tried even with the special O2 sensor socket.
The gas cap was the first thing I checked. My gas cap was not loose.
I have parked the car for almost two years (it worked fine when I parked it). But I put in a new battery yesterday, turned the engine on (engine started perfectly), but could not shift the car out of park.
Why did this happen, and how do I fix it? :confuse:
When it first happened, I was under warranty. They said an actuater had gone bad, and replaced that. Guess now I need it done to all the other doors too.
Am going to be a pain about them fixing this, because I think it's a safety issue. When I get in the car with my daughter neither the look control on the door or the remote will lock or unlock the doors - they have to be adjusted manually.
Good luck - sounds like this is a common problem.
If you have a persistant problem like vaccum leaks or sensor problems, then the light comes back. This will save you some unnecessary trip to the dealer.
Joe
The current powertrain warranty is 5/60,000. You may be ok.
Please Help!!!!
Is this something that I can fix on my own or do I need to buy a new Music system.
My mom owns a 2004 LE with a 4-cyl. Today she went to start the car and it wouldn't start! What are some possibilities? Car is full of gas. Battery is charged.
HELP! How embarrassing! A Camry!
My mom has had trouble like this one before, at the car wash. Car was shut off at the car wash. Car was washed. When they went to start it again, it wouldn't start. After 15 minutes of waiting, they tried again and it started fine. Took it to the dealer and they found nothing wrong.
Tomorrow car will be towed to Toyota. I HOPE it doesn't start so they can find a problem. This is serious. Imagine being on the highway, stopping for a break, then trying to start and it won't. I'm VERY dissappointed with Toyota, I think they are a great company and we plan on buying either a Highland or 4runner soon.
Hope this helps.