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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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I noticed that a few of the lights on my spoiler went out. I was wondering if it was possible to change it myself and if i can, which bulb would i need to get? Thanks!
-Will
Never have I seen a "higher end" automobile use such small suspension components that utilize rubber. I personally do not recommend taking your Camry to a dealer as my customer was hit with a $1400 + estimate and was told "this may fix the noises, if not we will have to dig further and find out exactly what component is making the noise." My opinion.... why wouldn't you properly diagnose it in the first place??
Good luck to you all ! ! ! !
Seems to me your prior comment addressed your own rhetorical question - your tacit admission that even you may have to resort to digging further. So, what makes come from the factory with harsh-riding, creaky, urethane suspension bushings besides specialty and some European quasi-performance rides? It's one thing for a car with 79,000+ miles to have rotted suspension bushings, but we're talking about new, or nearly so, cars here. My last car, a '96 Accord (presumably with the dreaded nitrile suspension bushings), was still rattle free seven years later when I bought my current car.
1. I found the tail light, but how to pull the bulb? Should I simply pull it out? It looks like the bulb is quite tight.
2. I removed the plastic pin to hold the front turn signal housing, according to the instrution manual, I should rotate it toward me in order to reach the signal bulb. However, it looks hard to rotate it. I just don't want to move it so hard to cause it broken.
Can anybody share their experience on this? Many thanks!
the bulbs have tiny metal posts in the bulb base that are designed to follow a groved track in the socket (the track is sort of "L" shaped with a position at the extent of the "L" to hold the bulb fast under spring pressure from the base of the socket). this "keying" also makes sure that a tail-light, which actually has 2 filaments for different functions, lines up properly with the proper connectors in the socket.
if you've never replaced one of these bulbs before, you can find them in Walmart or a local Automotive Parts store (PepBoys, NAPA, Advance Auto, AutoZone), etc.
sorry - can't help with your second question.
And therein lies the shame. Most of the cost, whether replacing a timing belt or a water pump, comes down to shop labor charges (which can be considerable when hard to access coverings, themselves often covered by other components that have to be removed first, have to be removed). Figure a timing belt probably retails for 50 - 70 dollars. Figure the price of a water pump will be 80 - 100 dollars. Then add in several hundred bucks in shop labor and shop supplies/disposal fees. You learned too late why the smart money's on having the water pump just swapped out as prophylaxis at the time a timing belt is changed. I'm surprised if the tech didn't recommend doing so. The Heisenberg Uncertainty Principal, aka, Murphy's Law - "Whatever can go wrong, will."
When I unbolt the In and Out lines will gas spurt out? How do I prevent gas from streaming out?
Can I unbolt the In line from the engine bay or is it usually accessed from under the car? The Out line looks easily accessible from the top of the engine bay.
I rather not go to a garage or dealer for this fuel filter change.
Thanks in advance for any step by step instructions or advice. John
i think you need to research the value of that vehicle. $5500 seems a couple of grand low. i believe that would be even less that a dealer would give you for a trade.
With that thought in mind has any one tried one of the various HP "boost" systems(***) that modify the IAT (Intake Air temperature) signal? These systems seem to falsify the IAT signal in a way that results in running a richer mixture than the optimum insofar as lower emissions levels are concerned.
Seemingly the same effect as using a higher octane in that the engine would be less likely to knock or ping.
***:
[url=http://www.hurricane-horsepower.com]http://www.hurricane-horsepower.com[/url]
Or search on Ebay or google for:
"progressive tuner"
For best, lowest, emissions 14.7:1 is optimal and for fuel economy some engines will go as high as 16:1. Personally I think that latter figure is what Toyota and Lexus are trying to do by using a more sensitive knock sensor.
We all know, or ceratinly should know, that leaning out the mixture can result in engine knock/ping.
So if the aftermarket "tuner" devices work as advertised, and I for one suspect that they might, their use results in a (slightly) richer mixture than Toyota/Lexus engineers "desired", that might result in the same effect as using premium fuel, maybe even equal to 100 octane.
If you have oil gelling, you need to show reasonable evidence of regular oil and filter changes over the life of the car. You need to present your receipts to a Toyota dealer. If the dealer performed the oil changes, then he/she will have the appropriate records.
The original equipment battery in my then 5-year-old Nissan Frontier (with only about 35K miles at the time) "blew up" when I shut off the engine and then restarted it. There was a muffled "boom" and a puff of smoke from under the hood where the battery was located.
It didn't blow itself to bits as I had feared, but the cap over 3 of the fill holes blew off and some battery acid was blown onto the underside of the hood. I never found the cap.
Needless to say, the battery was history and the truck couldn't be started. Luckily, I was less than a mile from home and had my truck towed there.
Looking back, there were warning signs: a good deal of corrosion on top of the battery indicating that hydrogen gas had been venting at a pretty good clip.
Unfortunately, you are out of luck regarding any warranty claim if fallout was the cause.
I can't see how it would help.
But in tracking the various posts on the internet, all over the internet, involving "engine hesitation on Toyota and Lexus V6/5-speed transaxles there does seem to be this evidence.
Just as jbuchanan says he changed out a MAF that fixed the problem, with no foreseeable reason, all paths must be pursued until we find the pot of gold.
Is there a coal-burning power plant nearby? The sulfur dioxide emissions from burning the coal could add sulfuric acid to the rainwater. I suppose the plant could even be far away and the emissions carried by the wind.
I'd check with company to see if defect in paint clear coats occurred at time yours was built.
Had car been waxed since you bought it?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I understand Florida gets lots of rain showers, followed by intense heat in the summer. Add acid rain to the mix, and I don't think it would take much for the clearcoat to be eaten away. And you have a power plant nearby -- not good if it burns coal.
No point in calling Toyota -- no manufacturer covers environmental paint damage, certainly not after two years. And you're right that a repaint will never look as good as the factory finish, so I think your only recourse is to wax more often, and if possible, wipe off any raindrops after each storm.
Personally, I started using Eagle One's Wax-As-You-Dry, not as good as regular paste wax, BUT it's so easy to use, I use it every time I wash the car. So the car gets some wax protection with each wash.
What evidence - there's either a TSB from Toyota or there isn't. Anything else is Kentucky windage speculation. I noticed that the link you provided for this wonder-widget is no longer in service. Another fly-by-night entreprenure one step ahead of the authorities? Anyway, I hope you install one of these glorified rheostats and report back your experience. Good luck.
Addendum - the link you provided does work - your url had a double entry. Having successfully accessed the link finally, I'm more convinced than ever you're on a gasoline-wasting, catalytic-converter killing, wild goose chase.
(After re-reading your unnecessarily "sharp" response to my first post, I'm having another evil thought, too, but I won't engage in that speculation publically...)
He said the water drops from the dew and the rain focus the sun's light and heat to a point and as the water drop evaporates the concentration of the acidity or contaminant increases which along with the higher activity due to the heat causes deterioration of the clear coat.
I didn't believe we have any real acid rain problem here in western Ohio. Clearcoats also have improved since the 93 for GM. Our 98 had a much different clearcoat.
I recall he suggested washing your car every day, tongue in cheek.
I would check wtih Toyota and check with a good Toyota body shop guy. If there is a problem verified later with clearcoats you have a better chance of compensation than with some other car companies. The body shop guy may tell you what Toyota won't admit to. Good luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That does make sense. Even minus acidity, the focus aspect of water droplets in direct sunlight could still conceivably lead to spot finish damage. Acidity can have sources other than industrial pollution, too. Bird droppings are acidic as are insect droppings. Mix in a little rain or morning dew, and... I read about automotive paint problems from Mercedes down to Ford Focuses (Foci?). The problems aren't confined to specific makes.
I would report this to the NHTSA. They track these types of incidents.
I purchased my car from a local dealer (Brunswick Toyota, NJ) - and it was sold me as a "new" car. Soon I found that the paint on the rear bamper is getting "bubbly" after each and every rain. After many months of Toyota USA and the dealership playing balls with me, the car was finally inspected by the dealership's, and - I was told that the rear bumper was re-painted! I was even told that "its okay" since many cars are received from manufacturer with one or another type of damage and they are usually "fixed" at the dealership. And - "its okay" that they did not say a single word about re-painting in any of the papers that I've got with the car. Now, imagine: you are getting a diamond and the seller tells you: "hey, it was scratched but we polished it so it is okay now, and you have to pay a full price!"
I wonder, if there is anybody on the Forum who agrees with such statement and the way the dealer works with his customers?
Otherwise nice car, my "bubbly-paint bumper" Toyota has yet another problem. From the very first day, I have noticed that it takes a huge effort to stop the car and I have to push the brake pedal with such effort as if I am a Flinstone cartoon character! It happend so that I know some people who also have 2002 Camry with ABS, and one person has a Nissan Altima 2003 (aslo with ABS). Now, i emphasize ABS option since I was told that ABS may cause somewhat longer stopping distance. All other cars I have tested, have 10-20% shorter stopping distance compare to my Camry, and yet - I hear "its okay" from the dealership's service department.
Is it really "okay"? Or - is it a well-known situation where "once you bought it - we don't care"? :confuse: :sick:
don't know what else to check
Please, : anybody has any advice
:confuse:
drive the other person's Camry with the ABS. if it is taking a lot of effort in your vehicle, but not theirs, there is something wrong.
follow your instincts.
The cooling system does hold pressure.
It will boil over.
With the radiator cap removed and the car at operating temperature I can not see the coolant circulating.
Water does not come out of the exhaust.
With the heat on I get a fog out of the vents.
Do I have two problems?
A bad water pump and leaking heater core?
*I have no idea what the so-called low-tox antifreezes which use propylene glyclol smell like.
As user777 said, how does your car compare with your friends' Camry and Altima? You're not totally clear on that point.
Regarding the bumper cover re-paint, unfortunately it's not all that uncommon for dealers to improperly fix cosmetic damage that may have occurred during shipping. You should have complained loudly the first time it became obvious. It's probably too late now for the dealer to do anything on their dime, as the car is 3 years old.
The SOUL purpose of ABS is to allow you to maintain directional control.
elongate relative to what?
If you're on ice and you don't have ABS, the operation of the ABS will shorten your stopping distance by keeping each wheel effectively in rolling contact with the surface and allowing maximum decelleration. Otherwise one and more wheels would keep locking up, giving no stopping power, and you would release the brake pedal then reapply and start the process over again.
The ABS can shorten the stopping distance on poor surfaces compared to not having ABS operating, but the stopping distance would be longer than on a normal dry asphalt surface.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On wet surfaces, it's no contest, because the ABS allows directional control, especially if one side of the pavement is more slippery than the other.
The only situations where ABS may "elongate" stopping distances is when a wedge of material (wet snow or loose gravel, for example) builds up in front of locked wheels, permitting shorter stopping distances for non-ABS vehicles. Another is on extremely bumpy pavement, where one or more tires may lose contact with the pavement altogether.
Can anyone shed light on what it usually cost to get emission issues cleared up so I don't walk into the dealership at their mercy?