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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
what you could do is have a local automotive parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, PepBoys, etc) read the code(s) for you.
Then you could google those codes and camry and see what you get in terms of probable cause and part location.
Then you could go to an online auto-parts website dealing in Toyota and get an idea of the cost of the part.
Then you could get a local independant quote the confirmation of the diagnosis and contingent replacement of the part for comparison.. (ie labor).
Hopefully, the process that I describe in general will yield some useful information to you.
Their posted prices seem much cheaper (even with the shipping) than getting OEM parts from my local Toyota dealer.
After that, the beeping system went off after I locked the driver's door with the latch on the side of the door. Instead of one beep, it began sounding like a sick cow. I tested this twice after and the same thing happened. The only way to shut off the sound was by hitting the "unlock" on the remote. I brought the car back to the dealership for the second or third time and, of course, it did not happen again.
Today, the horn started blaring again as I shut off the ignition (remember -- there is no longer an alarm system in the car). I called the service manager again today and he suggested that I go the lemon law route because he cannot find a problem.
I am not crazy. These things have happened. I have been driving quite happily for about 45 years. I am a serious driver (although not a 'car gal'), and I like to love my cars. This is the first car I have owned, from new, high performance luxury cars (8 cyl, 400+ hp) to used econo-boxes (4 cyl, 90 hp) that I have not even liked.
Has anybody else found a similar problem. I don't really want to go the Lemon law route because it's a pain in the neck. I'd much rather get some input from people like you who have actually thought about these problems so that perhaps I can present a possible solution to the service manager at my dealership.
My hunch is that the alarm system, when it was installed, was connected to the horn system, and the underlying problem is somehow connected to the horn.
Many thanks for any information you can give me.
Can someone please help?
Thanks.
When you say "transmitter," I guess you mean the transmitter in the remote. Yes?
Thanks again.
(I was lucky - my dad went halve-sies with me on a '56 Plymouth beater in 1962 that he and I overhauled during spring break in my junior year in high school. That experience made me a lifelong believer in 3,000 mile routine oil changes. Some have ridiculed me for my conservative maintenance philosophy, but, that's OK. I'd rather be ridiculed for giving my personal experience advice than embarrassed at having to seek and submit to common-sense advice.)
Now park the car in the garage at night with the windows down so the condensate on the A/C evaporator vanes can evaporate and be "convected" out of the cabin each and every night after you use the A/C.
Google for: EED, electronic evaporator dryer, at airsept.com for my detail.
Is anyone else experiencing these problems? Most specifically the emissions issue? If so, what is the root and how much should I be looking to pay? I will take it to the dealership as a last resort because they rape their customers. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.
This will be my last Toyota.
Coming Home from work yesterday I noticed both turn signals did not work.
Is this a Fuse? Or something else?
Thank You in Advance...
Maybe. Another possibility that immediately comes to mind is a failed turn signal flasher.
My concern was going to a Dealership with no other information than what I had about why it failed. Thank you for the info re: to check my warranty to see if this is covered. This is the kind of information I was looking for.
Do you know where the fuse might be?
or the turn flasher?
Thanks
Paul
thx
nick
Depends. If it's a pale, mayonaise-like consistency, it isn't sludge - merely an oil and moisture condensation mixture that's harmless. (When present, it tends to collect on cool or insulated surfaces and most oil caps are plastic these days.) If the glop is BLACK, then it's probably sludge. But this location would be unusual. Sludge is typically found in the bottom of the oil pan or on the hotter engine parts where it can chemically bake to its gelled consistency.
Today, I started the car as usual, but then when I wanted to put it into reverse to back out of the driveway, I discovered that the gear shift was extremely loose - and wasn't shifting the gears at all. I can move it back and forth as much as I like, but it's not moving the car out of "Park."
I assume I need to get it towed to get it fixed. My uneducated guess is that somehow the gear shift lever has become separated from the mechanism that shifts the transmission.
2 questions:
1) Does my diagnosis sound correct, or am I missing something?
2) Does this sound like the scary (expensive) type of transmission problem that requires a transmission specialist, or is any decent car repair place likely to be able to fix it?
Thanks.
The warning light means one of your 4 taillight bulbs is burned out.
When I put the key in and turn to ON position ( Not start ) every warning light on the panel turn on except the check engine light is not turn on.
2/ the light on the gear ship (automatic) is not on, maybe the bulb is dead
anyone know where is the bulb locate.
thanks, dp
I found a description in another post that nails what I am asking about, so I borrowed the text:
"The "fast rattle" sound comes only for a second or so during the acceleration from a complete stop or while accelerating on an uphill.
The sound comes from the right side of the engine."
Thanks for any information provided.
Thanks for the response.