Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • my grandfather cheked the manual when the problem first occurred and that's where he saw that the radio was on the same fuse, so it's def not the fuse unless the cig. lighter only works when both are functioning and there's another one i haven't found yet. sounds like even if the lighter assembly/relay is busted it should be an easy fix for someone to do on their own if they knew what they were looking at right?
  • Hi every one I have XLE Camry V6-2000 if any one can help me to fix all these faults codes shown below:

    1- P0303 Ignition failure cylinder
    2- P0171 B1 Mixture too lean
    3- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater
    4- P0440 Evap. emiss. control system
    5- P0441 Evap. emiss. Sys. Flow in correct
    6- P0446 Evap. emiss. syst. Vent. circ
    7- P1130 O2 Sensor Circuit range B1 S1
    8- P1150 O2 Sensor Circuit range B2 S1
    9- P0141 Sens. Circ. B1 S2 S. heater

    Note:both of the TRAC OFF and Check eng. lights on.

    I need someone to explain what exactly I need to do to fix all these faults and if you can help me to get a kind of faults explanation paper or book so I can know what's the problem before I go to the mechanics because we don't have Toyota dealer in Iraq/Baghdad and I appreciate any kind of help.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    even though your grandfather checked the manual and the fuse, please do so again. you need to become familiar with the manual and your vehicle anyway. this should be a simple check for you. i'm not saying don't believe him, but...everyone is human, and we've all made mistakes. i know i have. ;)

    it is possible there is a main fuse combined for both radio and cig lighter, but like i said, i doubt this very much - then again, i'm not an automotive expert. a sympathetic automotive parts store clerk might help you out... ask what an in-line fuse recepticle looks like if you are unfamiliar with them.

    as i said, i suspect there is also an in-line fuse (i.e. as part of the wiring) on the negative or ground side of the circuit, and it's probably not located far from the cig lighter recepticle. have you taken a look? i may be confusing you: a fuse in the fuse recepticle and also a fuse in inline with the wiring from the recepticle to ground. why would they do such a thing someone may ask? because, the manufacturer would want to protect against people attempting to power a wide range of devices via the cig lighter recepticle - with variations on the types of short-circuits either to the plus side or negative side of the battery. double fusing protects against a wider range of potential problems (at least this is how i understand it).

    doing this sort of checking, looking in the manual, examining the fuses (2), trying to troubleshoot the problem, researching replacements for and changing the antenna (as someone else suggested), all these things help you take real "ownership" of your vehicle and hopefully save you some $$$.

    i went to google and used the following search term:
    +toyota +camry +wiring +diagram

    there was a hit for autoshop101
    select the toyota wiring diagram
    it does look like there may be a double-sided fused circuit (a main and in-line fuse) for the cig lighter outlet.

    you can do it! hope it helps. ;)
  • Hey I have a 95 camry and all of the sudden while my sister had the car the signal lights stopped working at some point by the time she gave it back i checked all of the fuses they are all perfect i am wondering if there is maybe a fourth fuse box that might contribute that is semi hidden or maybe you know of an existing issue with this. Where would I begin my search for a short any suggestions would be great.
  • mh38mh38 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Toyota Camry Wagon that passed inspection recently, but have one tiny problem I can't figure out. This does not happen every day, but maybe a few times during the week. While I am driving, and reducing my speed, the car begins to tremble, and sometimes shuts off by itself. It only happens when I am reducing or coming to a stop. Any help???

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I am a little unclear. Do you have a problem right now (cracking belts or leaking fluids)?

    If not, the drive belts can be inspected at any time (you can do it yourself). I think the V6 still had multiple drive belts at that time, not one serpentine belt like the 4-cylinder. If there's evidence of cracking, glazing, or slipping, you should consider replacing them. If not, they can wait until you change the timing belt.

    The timing belt replacement is ordinarily done at 90,000 miles, so I suspect the dealer is suggesting s shorter interval. Go by the owner's manual, not the dealer.

    Some say that you may as well replace the water pump at the same time the timing belt is done, since it's very accessible at that point. Otherwise, if you wait till the water pump fails, then you have to repay for all the labor to get at it.

    OTOH, if you're going to trade in the car in another 30K miles or so beyond that, you might elect NOT to replace the water pump.
  • slim2slim2 Posts: 20
    I can't really tell from the manual when the Trans fluid fo my '03 Camry 4 cyl is due to be changed . Should service just be the 2 quart and filter change, or all the fluid changed out ?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Technically, if you go by the book, under normal service conditions, you never have to change it.

    However, most people here would disagree with that. Personally, I'd just drain and refill at about 30K mile intervals. Unbolt the plug to drain it, and fill with a narrow funnel through the dipstick tube.

    You get about half of the fluid out each time you do this. It used to be 2.5 quarts on my previous-generation '97 Camry with the 4-cyl, 4-speed auto. Your owner's manual will list the amount; also use the recommended Toyota-specific transmission fluid.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Or you can do as the dealers recommend, the honest ones anyway, and check the condition of the ATF each time the engine oil is changed. Mine was fine until almost 40,000 miles and then it turned dark and smelled slightly burned.
  • I have a 2003 Camry XLE and had a question about where I can get a missing screw…The other day, I started noticing something rattling at times underneath my car especially when I was on roads that weren't very smooth. In looking underneath my car, I noticed that there seems to be a screw missing that holds together, in the middle, 2 plastic pieces. I don't know what these pieces are called but I'll describe where it is. If you look underneath the car, these plastic pieces attach with screws to the back of the front bumper. These pieces extend back underneath the car a few feet (basically below the engine area). In looking where these 2 plastic pieces meet, I can see where a screw would have been but somehow it's not there now…Aside from where it attachs to the front bumper with regular screws, the other screws that attach this plastic piece and keep it up and in tact have big flat heads (about an inch in diameter)…Does anyone know which type of screw is supposed to attach the 2 middle plastic pieces together? Is this screw easy to find at an auto store? Thanks for any help people can provide.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    This is for the splash shield. The easiest thing (besides going to the dealer) is to remove one of the other identical screws and then take it to an auto parts place or hardware store and find a match.
  • I'm not sure how to describe this, but here goes. After I start my '93, I4, XLE after it's been sitting for awhile, and start to turn the wheels, I hear a whining(grinding?) noise from outside the car when i go all the way right or left. Even if I'm not moving and am turning the wheels in place, all I have to do is hold the wheels all the way right or left, i hear the "noise". This only happens when I turn the wheels all the way right or left and usually is gone after 10 mins or so. There doesn't appear to be anything hitting anything else, and one of my friends thinks it might have something to do with the power steering system. any ideas?
  • kenm6kenm6 Posts: 14
    marce12, did you fix the problem?
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Some noise at full turn-in lock is normal. It's just an internal pressure-relief valve doing its job. When the fluid is cold, the pressure would logically be at its highest since that's when the fluid is most viscous. Additionally, in certain PS systems, really cold weather brings out an initial squeal due to the shearing effect on the PS fluid when it's cold. It's harmless. (My Sonata grinds and howls like a banshee, but the owner's manual states it's normal when temps drop to -4 F. or below.) Just to be on the safe side, check the powersteering fluid level in its reservoir if you haven't done so lately. If it needs topping up, ANY automatic transmission fluid is perfectly fine.* Do NOT use motor oil, though. If it turns out you're low and need to top up, do several full lock-to-lock turn-ins with the engine idling afterword to work any trapped air out of the system. Avoid holding any full turn-in lock any longer than necessay.

    *except in Hondas and Acuras - those makes need a special Honda PS fluid.
  • I have toyota camry,1995,6cylinders,3.0 engine. I do not have a manual.What type of gas I should use(87,89,91,93)
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I'm betting a car that old only requires 87 octane, but, experiment. Run your car until it's almost empty and fill about half way with 87 octane unleaded regular. Drive the car a few days over mixed terrain. If the engine doesn't ping ascending grades, you're good to go with 87 octane. If you notice pinging, even "light" pinging, when ascending grades, finish filling the remaining tank volume with 91 octane. If doing that elliminates the pinging, fill afterwards with 89 octane. (87 + 91 = 178;
    178/2 = 89) However, if half-and-half 87 + 91 octane still pings when ascending grades, better use 91 octane for all future fill-ups. There is NO way you'll need to resort to 93 octane in that engine. (Go to a Toyota dealership's parts department and order a replacement owner's manual. There's no excuse to leave yourself in the dark about your car, its various features, and its service requirements.)
  • ebykebyk Posts: 7
    I have a 98 camry that has run 94000 miles. LAst week I had a compelete replacement of the EVAP system. Two days ago when i had taken it for inspection the computer threw out a code to a problem which my mechanic says is "O2 sensor lean". At the same time I have experienced a very peculiar problem. It only happened twice since the EVAP system was replaced last week. When I climb uphill i can see my RPM change from 2500 to 1500 and then the car struggles to bring it back to 2500. It feels as if the car will come to a halt immediately but has not done so. It bothers me. I will be taking it to Toyta tomorrow but would like to know if someone has had a similar problem. I would like to have a second opinion before the service guys at Toyota tells me to replace some costly stuff again. Please respond.
  • They are usually clips and not screws. They have fallen off a couple times on my car mainly due to trama when i drive it. But anyways, i usually bring it to toyota during my oil changes and they put new clips in for free since they are cheap little things.
  • I did a search on "accelerator" and found a lot of acceleration/hesitation problems. My problem is the accelerator itself. Most of the time it is easy to push down, but sometimes it will be very hard to push down. You can imagine how troubling this is, not knowing if it will go or not. I have looked under the accelerator to see if the carpet is causing the problem, but it is not even close to it. Anyone familiar with this problem? Thanks.
    This is a 2000 Camry.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Sounds like the cable may be binding in its sheath. Try having it lubed.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    It's likely that the throttle plate needs cleaning of carbon deposits. It's located where the rubber air intake hose from the air filter connects to the intake manifold. The plate and pivots need to be cleaned periodically with carb cleaner sprayed on a q-tip.
  • Hi,

    I have a toyota camy 2000 with 65K miles. The check engine light came on about few
    months back and I went to mechanic and he told me the problem was "EGR
    Valve Insufficient Oxygen Flow" after reading the computer code. But he
    said that I can wait for a while before replacing it. There after, the
    engine light goes on and off. I don't want to get it replaced if I can
    avoid it as the total cost would be around 350$. So, I want to ask the
    experts that:

    a) I've read that EGR valve can be cleaned. Can I clean it by using
    some fuel injector cleaner or some other thing?

    b) Will driving the car with this problem affect any other engine

    c) Can I replace the valve on my own and if yes, is there a
    manual/document that I can refer to?

    Please reply.

  • When the weather turns cold (approx 30 degrees and below) the brake light on my dashboard goes on and off regardless how long I let my car warm up (in garage overnight). The brake pads were recently replaced and are in good condition. It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the car (drag) and all of the fluid levels are full. What is causing it necessary to bring it to a mechanic or can I fix this myself?
  • My keyless remote quit, I tried the second one also - it doesn't work either. Went to dealership - they tried both, changed batteries in the remote, programmed a new set to my car, it still did not work, they reprogrammed my old set back to my car - handed me my keys - could not figure it out - it still does not work - any suggestions? :cry:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Slightly low brake fluid or possibly e-brake switch slightly out of alignment.

    Cold.......brake fluid volume when cold.
  • Well, if three separate transmitters exhibit the symptom, it's safe to say the transmitter(s) aren't the problem. It's obviously with the receiver itself.
    However, if you have the RS3200 (or whatever) security system, it's all integrated and a replacement module for that is gonna cost big bucks.
    Have you tested the security system to see if the rest of it works? Could be your entire security system has crapped out.
  • Hi there, i have a few suggestions for you. First make sure no little critters made a nest in your engine compartment. Second, when you open your hood you will see 2 black cables on the drivers side of the engine compartment, one is your throttle cable and the other is your cruise control cable. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the ends of the cables and they are mounted in their holes correctly (they have balls at the end that sit in holes). If everything looks in order take it to A dealer or repair shop and have a throttle flush done to clean the throttle body(sometimes carbon builds up on the throttle plate) hope this helps
  • The noise you are hearing is the pump starving for fluid, check the power steering fluid level (open the hood it's over passenger's side wheel, in a yellowish container with a black cap).. there are 4 markings full/hot low/hot full/cold and low/cold. it sounds like you have low fluid and after the fluid warms up it expands and stops the noise. Check the reservoir in the morning before you start the car it should be at full/cold or a little bit higher. If it's low top it off with Dextron 2 or 3 ATF (automatic transmission fluid) the cap will tell you the same thing. If it's low you should get the system checked for leaks. The pump it'self may not be leaking but suffering from loss of fluid.
  • 2003 Camry LE: I live in NJ, and this is my third winter where my windshield washer fluid lines freeze up when the temperature is below 20 degrees. In a snowstorm or on thawing, sloppy roads, not being able to clean the windshield is a real problem, as salt and streaks build up. My dealer service department's only solution: run the car for 30 minutes. My commute to work is at least 30 minutes, and the lines still do not thaw until later in the day if/when the temperature rises. It should not be the washer fluid, which has a very low freezing point. I've even tried the yellow washer fluid which is more expensive - still freezes.

    Anyone else out there with the same problem, and if so, do you have a solution? :(
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    If you're using a concentrate that requires dilution with tap water, there's your problem. I have no idea what type of washer fluid you filled the reservoir with, but a true winterized washer fluid consisting mainly of denatured alcohol will not freeze at any temperature above -40 F. I doubt it gets that cold in New Jersey. (So-called "wind-chill" factor readings don't count.) You should be able to find it at WalMart for around $1.25/gallon. Do NOT dilute this stuff - pour it in straight up and "neat" after empyting the reservoir of whatever's currently in it. Then follow up by running the windshield washer for at least 10 seconds steadily to clear the rubber lines of whatever's in them.
This discussion has been closed.