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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
25 mpg maximum.
Starts rough most of the time.
Bumpy, rough ride, not "smooth" like everyone says.
Hard steering wheel (not soft/grippy like most cars).
Front doors need to be slammed shut to close.
Other than that, it's fine. 68 db of sound at 70 mph, but low frequencies (<500 hertz) can really hurt my ears, even at low speeds (<30 mph), other cars (like Honda Accord) don't do this at all, interesting.
Because of the bad ride, bad gas mileage, and ear hurting low frequencies, I'm trading the car in.
I went through the whole deal with Toyota about fixing the bad gas mileage, they will talk to you all day, but they will never admit or fix anything.
Six months or so prior to having the mounts replaced I had them replace the exhaust pipe coming off of the engine because it was cracked and a bit noisy. They didn't think it needed replacing, but the crack opened under acceleration and bugged me. Then it cracked again and they found the broken mounts. At least the replaced the pipe for free the second time around!!
A former Toyota service manager told me to leave the timing belt alone because they seldom break and it won't do any harm anyway. I had it done at the dealer when it was on sale for $169 or something fairly reasonable.
John
Thanks, Mike
My 96 V-6 is turning 60K, and I would like to skip the belt change at 60K and go for 80K. Everyone says this engine is the type that no engine damage results if the belt snaps, so I am pushing it. I hate to take my car to the dealer for any reason. So far, I have been lucky.
How much was the timing belt replacement cost?
If your shop will do the job (ie bring your own parts in) order the belts from at wholesale http://www.toyotapart.com/ and have them installed. My dealer charges $194 labor and belt plus another $50 or so if you want the two other belts done.
I have had mine done at 60,000 and 120,000 but up to you
I just purchased a '98 Camry LE 4cyl with 44,000 miles. The previous owner had the windows tinted at a well established shop. The tinting paperwork shows rear & 4 windows; no windshield tint. But I noticed some ripples, almost like the small distortions you get from tint film. I've taken the car back to the shop that did the tint. They say it has no tint on the windshield.
I took the car to one dealership. Before I could say 3 words, the service gal shut down all options; saying that the windshield was no longer warranteed because tint had been applied. She implied that the application process may have damaged the windshield.
I think the windshield is obviously low quality/defective. There is enough distortion to make reading street signs difficult.
Has any other Camry owner noticed distortions in their windshields?
The car is out of its 3yr/36,000 warranty, is there still a chance I could have Toyota replace the windshield?
Does anybody have experience with tinting to believe the application process could ever in any way damage the glass such that it would cause visual distortions?
hunch). I was hoping that someone out there may be able to point me in the right direction.
BTW - I have checked all of the fuses, and they check out.
Specialized auto electrical shop will do it also
Only took about 1/2 hour to change each one. So you would have $900 in parts and $100 in labor if the dealership did it. That gives them $800 to fix the power door locks? That's alot of padding if you ask me. I would try an independant shop, nothing fancy about the windows/door locks on a camry. Nobody makes aftermarket regulators, so Toyota or salvage is your only choice. If I was fixing a 9 year old vehicle I'd go the salvage yard route, and find a mechanic if you can't do it yourself. $1800 is easily approaching 1/3 of the value of your car (on a good retail day)!
I have looked at the wind deflector when sunroof is open and do not see anything unusual, nothing is bent, torn, or out of place. I regularly apply silicone spray to rubber seal around the sunroof whenever I treat the door seals. At highway speed, the wind noise is high.
I just bought a 92 BMW 325i. There is no wind noise at all in sunroof area(or anywhere else).
Does anyone know how to fix this problem? By the way, there is no water leak at car wash either
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Maintenance & Repair.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Let it air dry for about 30 minutes.
Using masking tape and newspaper cover all areas except the rotor and caliper.
Spray the area with black primer. Let it air dry for 10 minutes, and put the wheel back on.
Thanks.
If the light comes on when you are stopping you should check it out quickly. It may be telling you of an impending brake system failure.
Drive safely,
Mike
the flywheel. is that true??? what's the reasonable price to fix this? How much for a flywheel?
Thanks!
P.S. this is a repost since it didn't get any attention in M/R thread.
The problem I have now is that when I try to start a cold engine (such as in the morning), I have to keep the gas pedal slightly depressed to keep the engine from stalling until it warms up a bit.
Once the engine has warmed up, I have no idling or starting problems.
Any suggestions & estimated cost to fix??
thanks
How about the wires? I forgot about those; I changed them around 80K because of starting problems (same as with bad plugs) and that cured it. I don't know what they cost for the 4cyl, but my V6 wires run me close to $80. Seems like these engines don't exhibit "common" symptoms of plugs/wires/etc., they just start funny when somethings wrong. I'd probably change the plugs again since you're in there pulling out the wires.
won't start when it's hot/after a long driving. I bought this car about 8 monthes ago, it only happened twice, all in the summer. When I turn the key to start, starter won't crank, and everyting is quite, but I know power is ok. After few tries, it starts. what's the problem?
1. after only 1 year. my front struts started
making noise. a dealer had to be convinced to fix
it.
2. when it would cold start - lots of white smoke.
they told me to change timing belt. no avail.
then another engineer discovered a engine warranty
repair to the engine stem cells. which fixed it since it was under 60k miles.
3. i had to do all my brakes. transmission etc.
4. what tires are recommended other than Michelling for 97 camry
For car mechanics out there: what should I start changing now? i.e. new starter? new alternator? etc... I would rather be proactive than reactive...Thanks for your comments.
I like Goodyear Eagles HP, seems to handle and wear as well as Michilins.
cduong
You certainly change your plugs very often, guess your year does not have platinum plugs but the ole copper. My 92 goes 60,000 with plugs. Assume tha tyou replaced hoses and coolant as well and PCV valve and fuel filter over the years.
Is exhaust system still original?
a friend in office had same problem and went to dealer -$2500 - oil is cheaper.
Brian
Wedge the "Club" between the seat & the pedal and check again.
Anyone else had this problem????
Try the TRD HP pads for the Camry. They cost a little more, but last much longer than the soft OE pads.