I support you voicing your concerns and not sugar coating the issues -- especially with Subaru staff checking these boards. I agree that in the end, they will result in better vehicles.
I also had some major repair work done on my Forester too. I had the clutch replaced and the pistons overhauled (to name a few) all under warranty. In my case, the repairs fixed the problems so I decided to keep it. If they hadn't, I would probably would have sold too.
i have a problem. i put H&R srpings on my car and they are great. after a couple of weeks my car has settled and now i have a sound. it sounds like the spring is hitting against metal. i have looked and can't see anything obvious. does anyone know what is going on?
jack up end of car noise seems to be coming from with a floor jack under the engine crossmember or rear differential as appropriate.
remove both wheels on that half. inspect wheel wells.
if you see any scuffing, you have the top hat installed incorrectly. this is a common mistake that can only be resolved by disassembling the strut / spring and aligning the strut top correctly.
if you don't see scuffing, something else is making the noise.
According to Nov. 2000 issue of Automobile, the new Impreza sedan will have a 254 bhp engine. In Japan, there's the 276 bhp, along with an STi tuned model with even more power. also in japan is a 2.0L WRX rated at 154bhp. available only to japan as usual, are three different AWD systems, including manu-matic steering wheel mounted buttons.
Nothing immediately after selling the OB. I'm moving to London, England next spring (so I'm likely keeping the OB for the winter months and then sell it).
Then when I come back, who knows...
(The WRX wagon does get me real excited, but first I need to convince myself that it won't be a another car with problems)
Sorry to hear the bad news, Ash. I was prepared for potential problems (I'm not trying to diminish your problems or feelings). The 3rd generation Legacy was introduced in Japan as MY99 and in North America as MY00, so a MY99 JDM = MY00 NAM. Thus Graham Peters' MY99 OB, built in Japan, looks like your MY00 OB, built at the SIA plant in Lafayette, IN (it took me a while to figure this out so I thought I'd share what is probably obvious to most enthusiasts). In my mind, this makes a MY00 NAM vehicle the 2nd year of engineering and 1st year of manufacturing. For me, this was an acceptable risk, even though my mindset is based on a MY91 FWD Legacy L+ wagon with a few problems (thankfully not engine-related). Per Consumer Reports, MY90,91 Legacys are less reliable than later years (and yours [sorry for that last one, I'm trying to inject humor into a moment of sorrow]
A manufacturer's perceived level of quality will be no higher than its least reliable component, whether it be an automobile, a toaster oven, a computer, or the space shuttle. The larger the number of components in a system, the greater the odds that the manufacturer will encounter a supplier with quality problems. I'm not making excuses for Subaru or FHI.. maybe I'm free associating.. I don't know what I'm doing.
I've enjoyed your contributions to the forum and I'm truly saddened to hear this news. As Ken said, we hope you hang around. Your 1.3 cents US is welcome any day.
Juice, I think the visors are different in the 2001MY Foresters. It sure looks like they're stickers (they're definitely not printed directly on the visor). If they're not stickers, it's one heck of a good optical illusion.
Anyway, it seems the sticker is very thin and stuck on really well - plus the texture and softness (?) of the visor makes it difficult to grab the edges of the sticker.
I guess my questions are: is it legal to remove these warnings? if so, has anyone done it? if so, what technique(s) did you employ?
Shane- I agree with you that those stickers are annoying and yet another example of our overly litigious society. I've not had any luck peeling mine off either. Hopefully Colin's mineral spirit tip will do the trick.
Ken: homepage.com should give me more space - my site gets 1500 hits per week!
Ash: let us know. The WRX would be high risk, though. You're talking about basically an in-house tuner car extracting extremes out of every component. Our aussie friend said the clutches don't last, and Í believe it.
Heck, BMW 540s are problematic.
Seamus: I've seen an Integra with short springs, and you have to make sure the spring is seated properly every time you jack up the car. My friend would hold the spring in place (use a wrench, not your hand!) while I slowly lowered the jack.
Automobile now says 254hp? Man, the speculation varies wildly.
Hmm, if you remove the air bag stickers, which do have yellow, just remember you're losing some horses...
Agree on the Miata. The visor, when down, ends up directly in my line of site.
Thanks for the replies - I'll try the suggestions. By the way, my last car (for 3 years) *was* a Miata and I'm 6ft. So maybe I now have less patience with annoying visors!
Juice, there should be a slot in the caliper expressly for examining pad thickness. The stock pads are low dust so it shouldn't take much Simple Green or whatever.
I got those three stuck bolts out last night. The last one didn't fare so well. Last resort was a chisel and hammer and fortunately it broke loose.
That was a Torx Plus, yes. There are six of them plus six hex bolts per cylinder head and they retain the camshaft cap. On a EJ SOHC head, they have this plate (cap) about 3/8" thick that holds the camshaft in place. DOHC has individual bearing caps that hold each of the cams. I'll provide pictures once I'm done... Maybe even some explanations too.
Brakes: I would worry more about the cleaning the caliper.
I definitely recommend the right tool -- $8.49+s/h but Trey says he'll include them in future cam kits-- and an high torque air ratchet. If you don't have one, be very careful. Once the first one strips a little you'll have to pull the heads like I did to get much leverage on it (force downwards on the bolt).
BTW, Darlene came through in a big way as the parts arrived today. The gaskets were more expensive than a small block chevy (duh!) but considerably discounted from MSRP. She also threw in the bolts and overnight shipping, because I don't see that on the invoice at all. Total was $52... Awesome service.
Put in another 6 hours or so today, and have the car just about back together. My dad has to get up at 4am tomorrow though so we called it quits.
Did some port matching on the intake side today, and cleaned carbon off the piston tops, valves and combustion chambers. There was a whole lot of crap on the back side of the valves...
Still need to install timing belt, air intake, exhaust manifolds & gaskets, put in oil & coolant and break in the cams. It looks a lot more complete under the hood now though compared to yesterday.
Now the bad news... I left my digital camera behind today, so I can't show you all the port work, valves, pistons... A lot of neat stuff. Sorry, guys.
Congratulations! I just read through your post on i-Club. 20HP on the butt-dyno sounds pretty impressive. Is that all high-end gain?
The smoke you saw when re-starting your engine is apparently normal. When I had my pistons overhauled, the mechanic said he had to drive around for about 30 minutes for all the excess oil to burn off.
I installed the air filtration kit this past weekend. The kit came with a set of instructions, but I did refer to your website for verification -- thanks.
The only minor "tricky" issues were cutting into the plastic (my utility knife kept getting stuck and the blade snapped a couple times) and finding a #2 phillips head screwdriver with a short enough handle to get at the second screw. I ended up going to my local HW store to buy a short handled screwdriver to complete the job.
Aside from a slight decrease in airflow (to be expected) and a very slight noise from the filter seal, it works great.
Juice, total spent on the cam project, including unforseen tool & part purchases, was ~$475. No way you can even get a sniff of a turbo for that. Then again, any sort of forced induction at even 5psi puts you into the low 200HP range (maybe 220 at most), which I am fairly certain is more power than I'm making now.
But is is possible for cams, intake, headers, and exhaust to give more power than a low pressure turbo for less money? Only one way to find out!
Question: do you feel any rough edges? Not that I'd do open-heart surgery like that, but if the cams are ideal for high revs, is the engine running rough at lower revs?
Oh for autocross I'm in a totally different class now. I'm in street modified now, and in our region that's anything goes as long as it's street legal (tagged, working lights, etc).
I think the engine might idle ever so slightly rougher, but maybe I'm just looking for that. There is no perceptible loss below 3k and it starts to hum above that.
I looked at juice's how to guide and set out to replace the horn behind the headlamp. I tested it before with help of my wife and that one did work. When I got the horn out of the car, and before installing the new Highway Blaster, I tested it again expecting not to hear a horn, but I heard the 2nd horn. I gather it may be behind the grill. Does any one know where the 2nd horn it is and how to replace it.
I have a horn behind the grille on the right, but mine doesn't seem to work, only the one behind the headlight does.
I'm sure yours is in the same place. Be careful removing the grille - you have to remove four clamps from the top (use a flat screw driver to push the locking clip in), and then slide the entire grille upward to remove it from the other three clamps. You should not have to force it and that way no clamps break.
Thanks Juice. I will try to pull the grill as soon as I get some free time Probably next week. It seems that the 2001 has a two horn system. The 1st highway blaster changed the sound, and it is now louder. I believe when I get the 2nd one in it will really sound great. I will keep you all posted.
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Comments
I support you voicing your concerns and not sugar coating the issues -- especially with Subaru staff checking these boards. I agree that in the end, they will result in better vehicles.
I also had some major repair work done on my Forester too. I had the clutch replaced and the pistons overhauled (to name a few) all under warranty. In my case, the repairs fixed the problems so I decided to keep it. If they hadn't, I would probably would have sold too.
So what are you getting next?
Ken
seamus
remove both wheels on that half. inspect wheel wells.
if you see any scuffing, you have the top hat installed incorrectly. this is a common mistake that can only be resolved by disassembling the strut / spring and aligning the strut top correctly.
if you don't see scuffing, something else is making the noise.
-Colin
dave
Then when I come back, who knows...
(The WRX wagon does get me real excited, but first I need to convince myself that it won't be a another car with problems)
-- ash
A manufacturer's perceived level of quality will be no higher than its least reliable component, whether it be an automobile, a toaster oven, a computer, or the space shuttle. The larger the number of components in a system, the greater the odds that the manufacturer will encounter a supplier with quality problems. I'm not making excuses for Subaru or FHI.. maybe I'm free associating.. I don't know what I'm doing.
I've enjoyed your contributions to the forum and I'm truly saddened to hear this news. As Ken said, we hope you hang around. Your 1.3 cents US is welcome any day.
Sincerely,
..Mike
..Mike
2001MY Foresters. It sure looks like they're
stickers (they're definitely not printed directly
on the visor). If they're not stickers, it's one
heck of a good optical illusion.
Anyway, it seems the sticker is very thin and
stuck on really well - plus the texture and
softness (?) of the visor makes it difficult
to grab the edges of the sticker.
I guess my questions are: is it legal to remove
these warnings? if so, has anyone done it? if
so, what technique(s) did you employ?
Another member was also interested in this info.
Thanks.
ash-
sorry to hear it. Hope you stick around!
Why bother? Your car won't go any faster or handle any differently.
>handle any differently.
Not even if I replace them with big yellow
stickers? I thought that added at least 5hp...
Seriously though, they are rather big and
annoying. I'm fully warned and I'd rather
not have to look at them every time I'm in
my car.
I did this modification and more in the wife's Miata-- took off both visors completely. If you've driven a Miata and you're above 5'7" you know why.
-Colin
-Frank P.
Ash: let us know. The WRX would be high risk, though. You're talking about basically an in-house tuner car extracting extremes out of every component. Our aussie friend said the clutches don't last, and Í believe it.
Heck, BMW 540s are problematic.
Seamus: I've seen an Integra with short springs, and you have to make sure the spring is seated properly every time you jack up the car. My friend would hold the spring in place (use a wrench, not your hand!) while I slowly lowered the jack.
Automobile now says 254hp? Man, the speculation varies wildly.
Hmm, if you remove the air bag stickers, which do have yellow, just remember you're losing some horses...
Agree on the Miata. The visor, when down, ends up directly in my line of site.
-juice
Shoot. Now I forgot what I want to post. Dang you juicer! >:|
Tire rotations: is it just front-to-back and vice-versa on each side, or do you criss-cross them? I'm guessing the former, but any thoughts?
-juice
I've stuck to front-to-back since that's what is recommended in the owner's manual. Never had any problems with pulling or uneven wear.
Ken
suggestions. By the way, my last car
(for 3 years) *was* a Miata and I'm 6ft.
So maybe I now have less patience with
annoying visors!
Anything specific to look for? Anyone have any tips?
-juice
I got those three stuck bolts out last night. The last one didn't fare so well. Last resort was a chisel and hammer and fortunately it broke loose.
Reassembly starts tonight assuming Darlene delivers!
-Colin
I'm relatively familiar with the front discs. The rear drums are more foreign to me. Guess I'll check pad thickness on both and clean them off.
-juice
What's the immediate benefit of cleaning brake pads? It sounds like a good idea, but I've never tried it myself.
Ken
Brakes: I would worry more about the cleaning the caliper.
-Colin
-juice
BTW, Darlene came through in a big way as the parts arrived today. The gaskets were more expensive than a small block chevy (duh!) but considerably discounted from MSRP. She also threw in the bolts and overnight shipping, because I don't see that on the invoice at all. Total was $52... Awesome service.
-Colin
Did some port matching on the intake side today, and cleaned carbon off the piston tops, valves and combustion chambers. There was a whole lot of crap on the back side of the valves...
Still need to install timing belt, air intake, exhaust manifolds & gaskets, put in oil & coolant and break in the cams. It looks a lot more complete under the hood now though compared to yesterday.
Now the bad news... I left my digital camera behind today, so I can't show you all the port work, valves, pistons... A lot of neat stuff. Sorry, guys.
-Colin
Good luck -- we're looking forward to your results.
Ken
Craig
http://www.impreza-rs.com/NonCGI/Forum15/HTML/005281.html
Big thanks again to Darlene for getting the needed parts to me on time.
-Colin
Dirty valves already? How many miles were on your engine? Also, even with premium fuel, eh?
Some photos I've seen reveal enormous looking pistons.
Hey - that's a bum link, repost?
-juice
http://www.impreza-rs.com/NonCGI/Forum24/HTML/000008.html
-Colin
Sounds like some serious labor to install it. And plenty of over-torqued bolts along the way!
-juice
ash
Congratulations! I just read through your post on i-Club. 20HP on the butt-dyno sounds pretty impressive. Is that all high-end gain?
The smoke you saw when re-starting your engine is apparently normal. When I had my pistons overhauled, the mechanic said he had to drive around for about 30 minutes for all the excess oil to burn off.
Ken
I installed the air filtration kit this past weekend. The kit came with a set of instructions, but I did refer to your website for verification -- thanks.
The only minor "tricky" issues were cutting into the plastic (my utility knife kept getting stuck and the blade snapped a couple times) and finding a #2 phillips head screwdriver with a short enough handle to get at the second screw. I ended up going to my local HW store to buy a short handled screwdriver to complete the job.
Aside from a slight decrease in airflow (to be expected) and a very slight noise from the filter seal, it works great.
Ken
-juice
But is is possible for cams, intake, headers, and exhaust to give more power than a low pressure turbo for less money? Only one way to find out!
-Colin
-juice
I think the engine might idle ever so slightly rougher, but maybe I'm just looking for that. There is no perceptible loss below 3k and it starts to hum above that.
-Colin
Guess I'm asking because that way you'd have a before/after reference on lap times.
I'm also guessing that's not the case, though.
-juice
-Colin
TIA
Russ
I'm sure yours is in the same place. Be careful removing the grille - you have to remove four clamps from the top (use a flat screw driver to push the locking clip in), and then slide the entire grille upward to remove it from the other three clamps. You should not have to force it and that way no clamps break.
-juice
I will try to pull the grill as soon as I get some free time Probably next week. It seems that the 2001 has a two horn system. The 1st highway blaster changed the sound, and it is now louder. I believe when I get the 2nd one in it will really sound great. I will keep you all posted.
Russ