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Comments
Shouldn't they just be changed at 60k, not just inspected?
-juice
Most all of the 2.5's will bend or warp the valves if they break.
I'd recommend checking it at 90k just to be safe.
Darlene
The speakers are standard 6-1/2" round. Not sure about the depth, but www.crutchfield.com can provide a list of which speakers will fit. Most good speakers will have no problem handling the measly power of the factory radio (if that's what you have).
Craig
vintagajoe: if that's the same air suspension the XT has, they are prohibitively expensive to fix when they go. Does anyone know if that is the same suspension?
-juice
As for door speakers - do the front doors first, that's where you will be! I've also heard that the factory speakers are nothing fancy, so any upgrade will sound better.
Cheers,
WDB
The fender well has air holes towards the bottom. It's just not that well sealed. That plus air gets in around the fog lights.
I drilled holes at the very bottom plastic cover for good measure, though I doubt it was necessary.
I'll be interested in seeing your before/after photos.
So, the Phase II's aren't as noisy, eh?
-juice
So you notice no difference in noise with and without the snorkus? How about at high rpms?
I don't think you'll need to make any additional holes to allow your engine to breathe from the fender. Just don't forget to cover up the holes leading to the engine bay.
Ken
Also, see the thread 1255converting air to strutsClubs on the Ultimate Subaru Message Board, New Generation forum. This board is very helpful for mechanical questions and has a search function. Good luck.
..Mike
..Mike
-Colin
Craig
I imagine the snorkus is designed with computer modeling. They come up with the craziest design that keeps things quiet.
-juice
Dave
Those of you with an EJ25 SOHC should consider the Cobb Tuning street cams *if* you often drive spiritedly. Their effect isn't felt until ~3500 rpm but it makes things above that rpm range quite a bit more entertaining.
The cams are $499 and expect to pay another $400-600 for installation unless you are a nut like me.
-Colin
Now we have our Snorki straight.
seamus: take photos if you can. It'd make it a lot easier to diagnose any potential problems.
Colin: I'd call it $1000. No way even I'd try that alone. BugBomb's brother is a mechanic and has weekend access to his shop, and I'm STILL not sure I'd do it ourselves!
How did that turbo group buy go? Were any delivered yet?
-juice
My fender well acts as a "Bionic Charged Cold Air Compression & Turbulence Chamber".
What kind of ducting do you plan to use? I've seen some metal tubing that bends into shape. Plastic would be more insulated, though.
Any plumbing experts out there?
-juice
Besides, what is the goal of removing them? Is there a noticeable performance improvement? I cannot imagine that Subaru designed, molded, and installed a thingie like that unless it had a purpose. Simply making the car quieter could be accomplished with a straight tube, so there has to be more to it than that. Any airflow techies out there?
Regards,
WDB
I notice better performance and more noise, but only when tapping into that performance - high rpm and WOT.
In the Phase II's, it's hard to say. Frank didn't notice much difference in sound.
-juice
If you can find it, there is a flexible accordian/bellows type of aluminum tubing that is used for a variety of venting, ducting, and HVAC applications. I've seen it in diameters ranging from about 2" to 6". I imagine you could find it in the local home center. It should be rigid enough for an engine intake, but double-check to make sure it doesn't collapse under the suction! Once you bend it to the right shape, the flex in the pipe should be enough to accomodate motion of the engine relative to the fenderwall (just be sure to build in enough slack). If you go with a rigid tube, make sure there is a flex joint somewhere.
Craig
PS: get as large a diameter duct as possible -- it will lower the air velocity and decrease losses.
Designing chambers into a duct can be an effective way of killing noise, much more so than a straight duct which just propogates the noise (and can actually intensify it in many cases). Some of my colleagues work on duct acoustics, and they do this sort of thing to quiet down jet engine inlets, HVAC systems, etc.
Craig
Time for Frank to hit Home Depot.
I have a question for your work friends - how else can you quiet that hum the Phase I's get when the silencer is removed.
Could it be the same phenomenon that happens to some radio antennae (I forget what it's called)? Mine is wrapped with a twisting piece of fiber.
Would something like that in the intake plumbing function to quiet the noise without restricting air flow?
-juice
I also have a 98 Forester (Phase I engine) with the Snorkus V1.0 removed and the engine feels more lively past 3500RPM.
From idle to 3000RPM, there isn't much difference in intake noise or performance. At around 3000 -3500RPM, intake noise gets very noticeable with a low booming sound that makes the glove box vibrate a bit. After that, the booming noise goes away and it becomes a nice growl. From 3500RPM and up, it just feels like the engine "opens up" and it pulls hard to redline.
---
juice,
You might want to try buying a simple 3" diameter intake hose from a local auto shop and allowing that to connect your air box to the fender area. You may have to cut it a bit so that it doesn't dangle too far into the fender space. I did that on my Forester I don't hear any humming noise.
Ken
In my experience, air intake can affect outflow also. MGBs, back when they had 2 carburetors, had 2 separate, very large air cleaners inside metal housings, one bolted to each carb. Folks used to take them off and put cute little chrome things on there, and when they did their MGB lost a significant portion of one of its most charming features - its perfectly marvelous, deep, throaty exhaust note.
Speaking of airflow going out, has anyone installed the Subaru-supplied "sport" muffler on a Legacy? I'm interested in "hearing" about one.
Cheers,
WDB
I've heard Stromungs and Borlas, and both are deep and burble nicely. They're louder pretty much all the time, even at idle.
The one on BugBomb's RS did emit a "POP!" on occasion if you let off the gas, but overall it was cool.
The catch is it's loud in normal use, so everyone will notice. I've taken a stealth approach so far. I may be able to get away with an Unorthodox Racing Pulley swap, but not much else.
I suggest you attend any i Club event. Almost half have aftermarket exhausts.
Any ideas what a rear disc brake retrofit would cost? And how much work it would be?
-juice
-Colin
-Frank P.
Not only that, but those stairs from the finale are right here in Georgetown.
That means it's very likely those spirits literally traveled into my very own snorkus!
OUT, I tell you!
-juice
I don't think the snorkus hum is due to the same thing, but it could certainly be a flow instability of some sort. Do you think it's a mechanical noise coming from the engine that was induced by removal of the snorkus, or is it noise from the intake flow itself?
Specifically, I have two questions for you:
1) Do you think the hum is always there, and removing the snorkus allows us to hear it (ie, the snorkus is there specifically to silence the hum)?
or
2) Does removing the snorkus actually cause the hum? (because of increased airflow, free breathing, etc)
Maybe we can narrow down the thinking from there. If it is flow instability exciting a mechanical part, it's relatively easy to fix (assuming you have access to the part!). If it's flow noise, that's pretty easy to tackle too -- it may just take some experimentation with different baffles, suppressors, inlets, etc. Porous materials can reduce noise as well. I once silenced a noisy shop-vac with a plastic soda bottle!
Craig
-Colin
www.cobbtuning.com
dave
A new fuel riser from www.spomotorsports.com plus a throttle body and even those new heads and cams would make a wild Subie by any definition short of Prodrive. Colin, you're the man! Go out and get those heads and TB to go with your new cam!
Dave
I think I read somewhere that getting a bigger throttle body won't help an N/A engine very much.
Anyone else know?
Ken
After removing the big fat snorkus, I noticed one small hole plus a larger tube attached to the air piping. Obviously if these were blocked more air would get to the engine...right? Or are those outlets needed for the fizziks of making air properly flow into the intake?
BTW there is a hole in the fender too. I may experiment with some heat-resistant tubing from the air filter box straight to the fender, but the ram air scoop seems like it would feed more air to the engine. Of course any HP gains will be very small, but hell, why not. Thoughts?
Dave
I'm not familiar with the 2000OB engine layout, but there's plenty of info on the i-club website with the Phase II engines.
As for the hood scoop, I've seen people try and position their intakes directly below it, but rainwater seems to be an issue. Unfortunately, our NA engines don't seem to get much power from ram air effects.
Ken
I'm waiting on dyno results for the throttle body. The heads are way out of my comfort zone. I did a little head work of my own while installing the cams, and no matter how good they are I'm not forking over more than $2K for ported stock heads. I would much rather spend that kind of money on suspension or a programmable ECU.
Loosh, on a budget I highly recommend Valvoline Synpower brake fluid. Great performance, very cheap, available at most autoparts stores and even Wal-Mart. Probably too late to help you this time though.
-Colin
It's all the time, and my guess it's the rush of air resonating. Sounds like a tuning fork. Lucien nailed one point - it does take about a second after you cut the engine to fade off.
Soda bottles?
What about lining the inside of the tubing leading to the fender well with some texture, like that stuff they use for undercoating?
Dave: just be careful about water. Those holes are probably water drains.
Colin: You can't mix brake fluids, though, right? If he goes with synthetic, doesn't he have to drain the entire system first, then refill and bleed properly?
You thinking about the SAFC? Those are cool looking, I saw Justin's a while back. His was running 2% leaner and making 40 lb-ft more than stock (he had dyno charts), but he did have other mods.
ramon: have fun and yes that is CHEAP! FATT was $150 for a day. US dollars, too.
-juice
Chuck
Chuck
The first thing I would do, if it's easy enough, is to remove your intake plumbing -- just leave the air filter box. If the hum is still there, then tweaking the plumbing/airflow won't do much. If not, you can add back parts one at a time, until the hum returns. This will allow you to pinpoint which part is causing the hum. Who knows, maybe the fender cavity is causing the noise!
Craig