It's not a Soob, but at least it has a working (yes, I tested it) rear LSD, a longitudinally mounted engine, alloys, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a 5 speed. And no more FWD!
Insufficient funds for the WRX wagon crushed that dream.
Mike Smith and I will be in the market at the same time!! Look out, sales people, bring your dramamine!
Hmm, Winchester Subaru is 12.8 miles from Summit Point Raceway. Loosh, we'll sign up for a Friday track day, then take a WRX sedan and WRX wagon out for "test drives". I'll remind the dealer to bring a helmet (track safety rule, ya know!)
Staggering cars: Our last two were 91 Legacy L+ wagon and 93 Civic LX sedan. Since they were but 2 years apart, it seemed like we were replacing wear items (brake, exhaust, CV boots) in bursts. Not good on the wallet AND inconvenient if you're a two-car family. Replaced 91 with a 00 GT wagon (did I say woohoo! ?), kept the Civic. When it's time for a new car (2005?), maybe I'll keep the Civic as a third vehicle but.. ugh, it's a Civic Very reliable, though. Except when I leave the lights on and drain the battery. Let's see, the last time I wanted to turn off the motor and leave the lights on was, um.. oh that's right, NEVER! (yeah, yeah, of use in a campground -- gimme a switch for that rare moment) And no map lights! Oh, the humanity!
For what am I in the market (in 2005)? A GT-B turbocharged wagon, of course! Or maybe a B4 RSK sedan. Since I don't live in Japan and I doubt we'll see these in North America, I'll just fantasize. I like the size of the Legacy though the smaller WRX wagon has potential; too bad the WRX wagon doesn't have wheel blisters and wide tires like its sedan sibling. If it ends up being a sedan, my wife might end up with the new ride as she doesn't think we need two wagons. All I want is a wagon, so I'd get the current 00 GT. Maybe I'll have worn the struts on the track by then that they'll need replacing (woohoo!) with something stiffer.
An advantage of planning that far down the road is that SoA will have time to read this post, revamp their five year NA distribution plan, get the 2.0l turbo EPA certified, and introduce the GT-B to North America!
In that case I'll put in my 2 cents' worth for the 2005 marketing plan.
Give us a WRX roadster. OK, that's $28 grand, you say.
Now strip off all the cosmetic stuff, like the rear seat (!), power windows, power locks, power mirrors, A/C, spare tire (use Michelin PAX tires), carpeting, cup holders (sorry, Mike), and cruise control.
That'll get the price down to $24 grand or so, just under a well equipped Miata or MR2.
Call is the WRX America and sell only a limited run, the first of which can be sent directly to my home address.
I replaced mine with two Highway blaster Low note horns - 130db. The stock horns that I removed are: Behind grill 105db Low and behind the headlight 108db High. The one behind the headlight was very easy. After reading Juices directions for removing the front grill that one behind the grill was even easer.
Good idea, but the group that organizes the track days I want to attend do not allow convertibles . Plus I don't care for FWD, which kind of eliminates CRX. Additionally, I live in a neighborhood which is in, shall we say, transition. Right now, there are far too many yo boyz running around in slammed hondas and clear taillights for me to stomach holding the keys to a honda.
Mike-
GOOD plan! I'll bring a helmet for the salesperson!
The highway blaster is very easy. It comes with universal hardware. You don't even have to follow their list of which models it would fit - just get the sound you want (deep, loud = D).
The most you'll have to do is bend a metal bracket slightly and tighten a couple of nuts and bolts.
Loosh: change schoools! Miatas are excellent for autoX. Not even hardtops?
hi all, OK finally after my last autoX event on Sunday which btw I did well. the winter shoes are in. Swapped in my stock 15 alloys with them el cheapo BFG T/As. I tell ya I will pay dearly for this one day. Anyhow along the way I installed yet another el cheapo mudflap. It is quite a bugger as Subaru has weird screws. So the ones that came with the flaps didn't fit. Worse still the subaru screws were flat and not pointy this screwing a hole onto the flap is pretty much impossible. It was cold, I was hungry, tired and I was pissed. Tinkered with it for 40 minutes (world's longest tire change ever!!!) I found out that my folks have a power drill. Duh! So went downstairs and grab it. Within moments I managed to get the flaps on and continue with my err... practise as a Ferrari F1 pit crew tire changer. The flaps are not great as Colins. I could've got a nicer rubber like material from Canadia tire but decided to cheap out cus I wanted to save the cash to buy a Taco Supreme down the road. So ended up spending CDN$4.99 for a pair. I only installed the front ones as I still have Subaru's mud guard at the rear and I am too tired to care about the look of my car. Sides it's winter who cares.... They are coming off once the snow's gone!!! .... no more mods!!! You guys better stop tempting me!!!
the cat back and intake will have to wait. i have to do my 60,000 mile stuff in a couple of weeks. i talked to my mechanic and he said it would be $300 + for my timing belt alone. does that sound right.
a clutch question. when i get a little excited and race my car i have a problem when shifting. when i throw it into third i hear a little skreech, like tires on pavement, but a little different. could that sound be me wearing the clutch out? can i buy a better clutch/master cylinder?
Seamus, refresh my memory. Do you have a DOHC model? (96-98 2.5L any model, 99 2.5L outback/legacy) If so $300 is probably fair. If it's SOHC (99 2.5L impreza/forester, 00- 2.5L any model, 93-up 1.8L / 2.2L) then I think that's a bit high, but not horribly bad. DOHC is more difficult because the cams can (and will!) rotate independently. Dealers have a tool that locks them together, which makes it almost as easy as SOHC. (Enthusiasts-- You could buy that tool from www.spxkentmoore.com if you care.)
Describe your screech a bit better... first, are you sure it's not a grinding? Does it ever happen in any other gear or at any other time? Do you feel anything in the clutch pedal or shifter when it happens?
Pictures? The iclub accepts html commands, as does WellEngaged. (I can't remember if the new software, if we'll see it again anytime soon, did or not.)
i am sure that it is a skreech not a grind. i put my head out the window to listen when i shifted into second and i heard the sound and the sam ething happened when i put it into third. this only happens when i let the rpm's go up around 4000 and throw it into second or third and pop the clutch. i'm sure that it is just my enthusiastic driving.
i have a 1996 2.2 L. i'm not sure if it's a sohc or dohc.
MR2 would be nice, actually. Doubt you could fit a cello though.
ramon: gotta have the right tools! Got any pix from the AutoX?
Colin: like night and day. You got that URL? Clicking on the photo does nothing.
No snow tires for me. Winters are mild, and besides, I wouldn't mind a LITTLE drama. The OE tires were too good (i.e. no fun). The Nittos ought to allow for a bit more play, without being Skatorbacks.
at least my year is a 2.2 SOHC phase II block. pix? yeah. I dunno where to host them. photopoint is quite a prick sometimes when i need to upload.... let me try.
The 2.2L were all SOHC, except the 22B of course. Seamus, that means you can change your timing belt all by yourself with a bottle of whiteout, a Haynes service manual, a new belt, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets. Should take the average enthusiast about an 90-120 minutes.
Can't argue with your logic. E30 track car makes sense and certainly a big support group in the BMWCCA among others.
Competition bug starting to bite me, especially since I've been following that "Autocrossing a Forester" thread over on i-club (Juice, I plugged your page over there). I'd like to give that a shot, and I'm also interested in taking part in some timed rallies either in my Forester or my Studebaker. I also have this wild hair about doing the One Lap of America in the Stude...but that's way off topic.
I have the bug, too. I'd like to try auto-x, but now know the OB isn't the right car for this. Tires are too tall, and I have too much roll. Hence this 325 idea- it is just so cheap! even if I had to put a grand into it, I'm still out only $2500, for a car with a torquey, smooth straight 6 and great handling. Funny, I've been thinking about One Lap myself......hmm.....where are you, anyway?
Now that would be interesting.... imagine a lightweight simpleton bimmer. it better not be FWD! And kept the price down. Nah not gonna happen. I'm getting a WRX. 'nuf said. My OBS will eithe rbe a grocery getter or an all out modified wagon. yup. gonna rip the seats out and install a roll cage. While the WRX will be used as daily driver. hahahahah....
appears to be doing ok I have just got back from a six day trip to the north of the state. did 1400kms. fuel consumption was over 27.5 m/usg for the three fill ups i had. the best was 28.1 m/usg. that's around 2->3 m/usg better than what I have been getting. so over the long haul the outlay may be worth it. it's your call.
A true 2002 successor would have manual crank windows and no ABS. It has to be very light, say 2300 lbs. Seriously. Otherwise it'll just be a trendy pretender.
Well, at least it's good to know you and ramon have your priorities straight!
I just need this 325 to hang in there for two or three years, until I get some personal things sorted out, then maybe consider something like a WRX. I read that article too, with even more coverage in this months "CAR" magazine....the 2 series will definitely be on the shopping list at that time.
Plus, Soobs will only get more interesting. By then you may be able to choose from an H6 Forester, a turbocharged GT, an SVX, as well as several limited edition WRX models.
PS If you spend those two years fine-tuning your driving skills, by the time you got a WRX you could be humiliating a few Bimmer drivers on the course!
Can anyone explain what is involved in adding the auto dimming mirrors to a 2001 Outback? Also, is there another aftermarket mirror/compass that works better than Subau's?
fule filters? My hesitation is back again. =( Sux. So I doubt it's bad gas. Most likely fuel filter as prior to all these ugliness, I ran to empty (light came on for a while) before refilling it. Also how hard it is to install yourself?
Bit: check a shop manual to find out the OE specification for the gear oil weight. Anyone know off hand?
I think it's about 80w90, but don't quote me. That means the synthetic is slightly thinner oil, but that's the only way you'll find it.
The short shift lever from SPT is awesome, and I imagine Cobb's is just as good. My lever is a bit short (it also changes the leverage), but I love the way it feels, and you only work from the top. You can probably use a lot of these instructions.
If you want to change the bushings, you'll have to crawl underneath, and it's a lot more work.
ramon: yes, the fuel filter is right in the engine bay, and a piece of cake to swap. I had a little fuel leak out, but if you use one of those quick-grips vise thingies you can pinch the fuel line and avoid that.
Here are full instructions for mine; yours should be the same. Darlene has the part.
I'd also consider the plug wires, and spark plugs if you haven't already.
Mostly for your own safety, I would make sure it's cool. Don't want any spilled gas lighting up! Talk about pinging! %*}
Do you have anything to use as a clamp? The quick grips are good, but I had to use a long nail so that it could pinch a small enough portion to close it.
Try to imagine it like this:
/ ---------- ====/==== ---/------ /
Where the top and bottom lines are the pads on the quick vise grip, the = is the fuel line, and the nail is squeezed in the middle, perpendicular to the fuel hose, to pinch the line.
I used a nail because the sides are smooth and won't puncture the fuel line. A pencil would also do.
Be creative, I'm sure you'll figure it out. I'm not sure that'll solve a hesitation problem, though. Any other suggestions?
my car has accumulated over 32,000km. So I guess it wouldn't hurt to change the filter.
juiceman, i don't really understand the nail pinch thingy. I will prolly get some fren of mine to hold the fuel lines tight while I change it.... will that help?
the heck is a golf tee? You mean those little sticks that holds golf balls before you whack 'em? You can tell I am no golfer. I think I can use some of my roomie's.
The on thing about Fords with its fuel pump inertia switch is that it makes it easy to replace the fuel filter, release the pressure and shut off the fuel. When you replace the filter you should try to release the pressure from the line, with Subies its a little hard because there is no switch, but try this. Most of all do this with a cool engine so as not get fuel spraying on a hot block which could result in it getting even hotter. I changed my filter in the morning so everthing is cool. Open up the gas cap to vent out any pressure that is still built up and then close the cap up. I use small vice grips with just enough pressure to pinch the lines at the filter. there will be some spillage so I place a garbage can cover upside down on the ground to catch the gasoline.I have several small vice grips to do this but you can do one at a time and just place the lines on the new filter. Do the lines going to the engine side first, then those coming from the fuel tank. using the old filter for reference. Hope this helps.
I also posted to the i-club board regarding this subject. I did get one response confirming the grinding gear issue Juice mentioned. But the poster was using the Red Line 75W90NS which has a friction modifier thereby limiting the functionality of the syndros. BTW the Soob spec is for 75W90.
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Comments
It's not a Soob, but at least it has a working (yes, I tested it) rear LSD, a longitudinally mounted engine, alloys, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a 5 speed. And no more FWD!
Insufficient funds for the WRX wagon crushed that dream.
-juice
Hmm, Winchester Subaru is 12.8 miles from Summit Point Raceway. Loosh, we'll sign up for a Friday track day, then take a WRX sedan and WRX wagon out for "test drives". I'll remind the dealer to bring a helmet (track safety rule, ya know!)
Staggering cars: Our last two were 91 Legacy L+ wagon and 93 Civic LX sedan. Since they were but 2 years apart, it seemed like we were replacing wear items (brake, exhaust, CV boots) in bursts. Not good on the wallet AND inconvenient if you're a two-car family. Replaced 91 with a 00 GT wagon (did I say woohoo! ?), kept the Civic. When it's time for a new car (2005?), maybe I'll keep the Civic as a third vehicle but.. ugh, it's a Civic
For what am I in the market (in 2005)? A GT-B turbocharged wagon, of course! Or maybe a B4 RSK sedan. Since I don't live in Japan and I doubt we'll see these in North America, I'll just fantasize.
An advantage of planning that far down the road is that SoA will have time to read this post, revamp their five year NA distribution plan, get the 2.0l turbo EPA certified, and introduce the GT-B to North America!
..Mike
..Mike
Give us a WRX roadster. OK, that's $28 grand, you say.
Now strip off all the cosmetic stuff, like the rear seat (!), power windows, power locks, power mirrors, A/C, spare tire (use Michelin PAX tires), carpeting, cup holders (sorry, Mike), and cruise control.
That'll get the price down to $24 grand or so, just under a well equipped Miata or MR2.
Call is the WRX America and sell only a limited run, the first of which can be sent directly to my home address.
-juice
Can I combine the C & D horns for a really awful noise?
Cheers!
Paul
Behind grill 105db Low and behind the headlight 108db High. The one behind the headlight was very easy. After reading Juices directions for removing the front grill that one behind the grill was even easer.
Overall allow 1/2 hour for each.
Russ
Mike-
GOOD plan! I'll bring a helmet for the salesperson!
The most you'll have to do is bend a metal bracket slightly and tighten a couple of nuts and bolts.
Loosh: change schoools! Miatas are excellent for autoX. Not even hardtops?
-juice
OK finally after my last autoX event on Sunday which btw I did well. the winter shoes are in. Swapped in my stock 15 alloys with them el cheapo BFG T/As. I tell ya I will pay dearly for this one day.
Anyhow along the way I installed yet another el cheapo mudflap. It is quite a bugger as Subaru has weird screws. So the ones that came with the flaps didn't fit. Worse still the subaru screws were flat and not pointy this screwing a hole onto the flap is pretty much impossible. It was cold, I was hungry, tired and I was pissed. Tinkered with it for 40 minutes (world's longest tire change ever!!!) I found out that my folks have a power drill. Duh! So went downstairs and grab it. Within moments I managed to get the flaps on and continue with my err... practise as a Ferrari F1 pit crew tire changer. The flaps are not great as Colins. I could've got a nicer rubber like material from Canadia tire but decided to cheap out cus I wanted to save the cash to buy a Taco Supreme down the road. So ended up spending CDN$4.99 for a pair. I only installed the front ones as I still have Subaru's mud guard at the rear and I am too tired to care about the look of my car. Sides it's winter who cares.... They are coming off once the snow's gone!!! .... no more mods!!! You guys better stop tempting me!!!
a clutch question. when i get a little excited and race my car i have a problem when shifting. when i throw it into third i hear a little skreech, like tires on pavement, but a little different. could that sound be me wearing the clutch out? can i buy a better clutch/master cylinder?
seamus
Describe your screech a bit better... first, are you sure it's not a grinding? Does it ever happen in any other gear or at any other time? Do you feel anything in the clutch pedal or shifter when it happens?
-Colin
It's just the usual [img src=http://blah.com/blah.jpg]
except <</A>> instead of []
i have a 1996 2.2 L. i'm not sure if it's a sohc or dohc.
seamus
MR2 would be nice, actually. Doubt you could fit a cello though.
ramon: gotta have the right tools! Got any pix from the AutoX?
Colin: like night and day. You got that URL? Clicking on the photo does nothing.
No snow tires for me. Winters are mild, and besides, I wouldn't mind a LITTLE drama. The OE tires were too good (i.e. no fun). The Nittos ought to allow for a bit more play, without being Skatorbacks.
The Miata will be parked, probably covered.
The 2.2s were all DOHC, right ramon?
-juice
pix? yeah. I dunno where to host them. photopoint is quite a prick sometimes when i need to upload.... let me try.
-Colin
Too bad you're not a bit (a lot) closer. It'd be cool to watch one race.
Wow, so you guys have 4 sets of rims for 2 cars?
Man, that clearance is TIGHT. I have acres compared to that. I could probably go 235/60 if I remove or shave the front mud flap.
-juice
Competition bug starting to bite me, especially since I've been following that "Autocrossing a Forester" thread over on i-club (Juice, I plugged your page over there). I'd like to give that a shot, and I'm also interested in taking part in some timed rallies either in my Forester or my Studebaker. I also have this wild hair about doing the One Lap of America in the Stude...but that's way off topic.
Maybe my bookmark is bum. Can't get in right now.
-juice
I have just got back from a six day trip to the north of the state. did 1400kms. fuel consumption was over 27.5 m/usg for the three fill ups i had.
the best was 28.1 m/usg. that's around 2->3 m/usg better than what I have been getting. so over the long haul the outlay may be worth it. it's your call.
gus
Well, at least it's good to know you and ramon have your priorities straight!
-juice
Plus, Soobs will only get more interesting. By then you may be able to choose from an H6 Forester, a turbocharged GT, an SVX, as well as several limited edition WRX models.
-juice
Rear dif
75W90 gear oil is probably the only choice
Tranny
MTL 75W/80W or MT -90 75W/90W?
Any thoughts?
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/drivetrain-shift.html
Anyone know anything about this shifter?
Bit
Be careful. I would search and then ask around on the iclub (since many members have done it)... some have reported grinding since switching.
What I think is happening is that the oil they put in is too slick and the synchronizers can't work properly.
-Colin
I think it's about 80w90, but don't quote me. That means the synthetic is slightly thinner oil, but that's the only way you'll find it.
The short shift lever from SPT is awesome, and I imagine Cobb's is just as good. My lever is a bit short (it also changes the leverage), but I love the way it feels, and you only work from the top. You can probably use a lot of these instructions.
If you want to change the bushings, you'll have to crawl underneath, and it's a lot more work.
ramon: yes, the fuel filter is right in the engine bay, and a piece of cake to swap. I had a little fuel leak out, but if you use one of those quick-grips vise thingies you can pinch the fuel line and avoid that.
Here are full instructions for mine; yours should be the same. Darlene has the part.
I'd also consider the plug wires, and spark plugs if you haven't already.
-juice
So the fuel filter is that donut ring thingy then eh?
how do i get hold of darlene?
It looks like a metal bottle, and sits on the driver side - not hard to find or reach at all.
-juice
Do you have anything to use as a clamp? The quick grips are good, but I had to use a long nail so that it could pinch a small enough portion to close it.
Try to imagine it like this:
/
----------
====/====
---/------
/
Where the top and bottom lines are the pads on the quick vise grip, the = is the fuel line, and the nail is squeezed in the middle, perpendicular to the fuel hose, to pinch the line.
I used a nail because the sides are smooth and won't puncture the fuel line. A pencil would also do.
Be creative, I'm sure you'll figure it out. I'm not sure that'll solve a hesitation problem, though. Any other suggestions?
-juice
juiceman, i don't really understand the nail pinch thingy. I will prolly get some fren of mine to hold the fuel lines tight while I change it.... will that help?
-Colin
I think I can use some of my roomie's.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/gearoil/index.html
I also posted to the i-club board regarding this subject. I did get one response confirming the grinding gear issue Juice mentioned. But the poster was using the Red Line 75W90NS which has a friction modifier thereby limiting the functionality of the syndros. BTW the Soob spec is for 75W90.
Bit
Bit