Not hardly. All dealers pay the same price for parts.
Juice....you were right. SOA does offer incentives, but I've never been real big on that. After 20 years of selling their parts, so far I've received certificates (worth nothing) and I did win the Circle of Excellence once. I got a gold Subaru ring and a check for $500.00
I would rather sell their products at a reasonable price than win anything they offer. (wish all dealer parts depts. would think that way)
Hey Colin: Got some feedback on the MAF sensor failure due to the intake. After further back and forth emaail, I'm about 95% into buying the intake. The 5% is just the worry I guess...purchasing a product from a company out of the US, although they have the experience and reputation (not to mention they deal with Imprezas, WRX's, etc.) I guess warranty is selling the 5% doubt. Anyway, this is what he replied when I mentioned what you told me: The only reason that the MAF sensor would fail is that the filter has been reoiled and TOO MUCH oil applied. The oil (and I mean way too much - so it is dripping off the filter) can be sucked through and coat the sensor (more than what can be burnt off during the normal cleaning cycle). To have this happen though is being REALLY negligent. It has never happened to any cars that we have fitted the Rampod to (Liberty's, WRX's, 2L Imprezas, etc).
Hey...here's a dumb question... If I change the stock intake on MY00RS, that avoids me buying the K&N air filter right? Or is that another mod? Sorry for my naiveness, I just haven't seen a good pic where the intake replaces all. Like the Weapon R, I guess. Thanks for any info.....
Bigelm, that's exactly what I expect Brett to say... assuming he replied to your question.
In reality MY99 Imprezas using a MAF sensor all over the world have experienced sensor failure at a rate much higher than earlier cars. Bad batch, bad design, who knows. Search the UK bbs if you are interested, there's a link at www.scoobynet.co.uk
I have a photo of my hobby car before and after repaint. It's a bitmap and I don't know how to link it to my post. Please advise and I'll do it.
Colin:
I spoke with Mike Shields @ SPD last night. He told me that the bushings didn't need greasing and that they weren't greased on the Imprezas. (I owners: verify?) The clunk isn't regular but intermittent; I fear it's something in the cargo bay. I removed everything above and below decks in the bay save for the spare and the jack, and tightened them down so they wouldn't wiggle. My ears may not be sharp enough but I think the clunk is coming from just to the right of the spare. I'll be embarrassed but relieved if it's not something mechanical.
On the bummer side I think one or both rear wheel bearings are starting to fail. At 8500 mi. I don't think this is acceptable. I made a service appt. with the dealer who sold it to me for next Tuesday. Over the phone I got the impression that he knew this sort of thing has been happening to Foresters. A bit of tarnish appearing on this so-far shiny ride.
Ed, Mike Shields is dead wrong. All swaybar bushings should be lubed. The purpose of the bushing is to control angular deflection, not to resist the bar's twisting. The bar itself is what resists twisting.
I know Mike was the first real tuner on the scene in the US but he's wrong. He started out with an Impreza before the rest of us and followed rallying and talked to folks in the UK and Japan long before Subaru of America dreamed up the '98 2.5RS. That doesn't mean he's right about the bushing. Whiteline, Cusco and SYMS all ship a small tube of grease with their bars and bushings. ____
I hear you. Some of the Studebaker guys I know lightly lube theirs with spray lithium lube. That'll be my most likely route. Not trying to dis Shields - I think his website has some good info, especially re wasting your money on boy racer stuff - but just passing along his input.
Got my Amsoil air filter last night. I purchased model TS74 that's designed as a drop in replacement for the 98 Forester & Impreza RS.
A couple notes on the installation:
- The overall shape and size seemed very close to the stock paper filter I was using. The bottom is made of a coarse foam and the top consists of finer foam and a wire mesh. The big difference is that the Amsoil filter is almost completely made from foam so it's "floppy" compared to the Subaru OE filter. - The softness of the filter actually made it more difficult to get it to 'sit' square in the airbox. I had to try a couple times to make sure that the lower corner of the filter didn't dip downwards creating an ineffective seal. - The airhose on top of the airbox makes it difficult to close the airbox. You need to push down a bit to get the lower clasps to fit properly. - I needed to use a bit of elbow grease to get the airbox closed. It seems as though the Amsoil filter might be just a tad big when new. Maybe it's designed this way since foam will compact over time.
After about 20 minutes of wrestling with the airbox, I felt I had a good fit and took the Forester out for a spin. I took the engine revs up high but didn't notice any immediate difference.
Back in my garage, I proceeded to reset the ECU by removing fuse SBF-2 in the engine compartment.
Tip: Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry up one side of the fuse to get it out.
I let the car sit overnight, plugged the fuse back in this morning and started the engine cold. After some of the posts I've read on resetting the ECU, I was expecting the engine to run rough but it didn't seem any different from my normal startups. I wonder if leaving SBF-2 unplugged overnight is enough to drain the ECU capacitors.
After 15 minutes of idling, I shut the engine off, restarted and drove off to work. Again, I didn't perceive any difference in performance. I tried revving the engine up to about 4K but everything seemed the same -- no better no worse. I'll keep you all posted if I see any changes.
Yes, I've been thinking I should be taking photos of all this stuff so I can share with other owners. I'll hopefully be getting a digital camera by year end so it'll make the process a lot simpler.
Running rough after an ECU reset... never noticed that myself, either method. If you pull the battery for comparison, make sure you have your remote in hand when you reconnect it if you have an alarm.
About refitting the airbox-- there is a hose clamp on the piece of flexhose you're talking about. I loosed that clamp and totally removed the whole assembly then when I reinstalled I moved it around to my liking. It is a bit challenging to close the intake box.
My car seems to rev easier, but I also removed the silencer / snorkel that draws air from the engine compartment. I'll say again that if you're thinking of doing this that there will be an audible intake honk for about 1000 RPM starting between 3500 and 4000 RPM at wide-open throttle.
Damn, I knew that grease in the plastic pouch was there for a reason, dummy me!!! I wasn't too sure if it also applied to the Impreza. I heard the bushings didn't need the grease. C*ap, now I gotta get it greased up! I'm guessing the greasing occurs on the inner part of the bushing, right? (to flex btw the bushing and the sway bar...)?
Hey Juice, Thnx. When I get the mod I'll take some pictures. I'll keep you guys (and gals) posted.
Thanks for the tip, Colin. I don't know why it didn't occur to me to try and remove the hose clamp at the time. Guess I was getting too into putting the darn airbox cover back on.
Is the silencer/snorkel, that thin, closed tube that comes off of the airhose at about 90 degrees (don't know if it's the same on the 99s)?
Bigelm, yep the grease goes inside the bushing so that the bar spins freely.
Ken, that thing is might be some kind of resonator tube that damps reversion to keep the MAF from getting strange readings when the throttle snaps shut suddenly. It could also just smooth flow... Either way, I'm sure it was fluid modeled and the size and position chosen deliberately. I haven't touched anything between the airbox and throttle body.
When you replaced the filter, remember seeing that big round hole going into the fender? On the other side of that hole inside the fender is the silencer. It has a nearly direct path right back through the fender into the engine compartment, but it also feeds into a big silencer chamber (maybe 1-1.5 gallon displacement). The part that re-enters the engine bay has an L-shaped piece of plastic attached at the fender.
I've got to get a digital camera and send some stuff to juice, it would help so much.
Indeed, the air filter goes in #1. What I meant to say was that it's difficult to close #1 because #2-4 are attached to it. They limit the motion of #1.
I know that you can remove the 2nd air filter on the Phase II engines, but I haven't heard anything about ours.
Oh that's the same as the '98RS. You guys have the *good* MAF sensor (2 in the picture), the one that doesn't break all the stinking time like the 99RS and various Impreza turbos had.
If 6 is underneath 1, then yes it's the silencer. I believe #1 is actually the exact same on both cars and I'll check the PN for the amsoil filter in mine tonight.
Yep, I've got AMSOil TS74 in my '99RS too so the airbox must be the same.
As far as whether or not you should remove the silencer... well, I *think* it did help from 4000 rpm up a bit, but the noise is a factor. Additionally it's not easy to remove or reinstall so that's something to consider. If it only took 5 minutes I'd say 'go for it' without reservations...
At least amsoil's comparison charts (bar graphs, really) depict their filter as flowing roughly equal to cotton gauze (k&n) but they rate the particle filtration and reusability higher.
Those flow rates don't look right. I had a K&N in my Escort, and never noticed a difference in performance. I actually lost a bit of power once when I put too much oil.
Of course, there is the placebo effect. Whenever you get something new you're hoping for more power, and may even drive a bit harder to wring it out.
Colin: how long to take the silencer out? Did you rig it to pull air from outside the engine compartment, and if so, how?
You know what I just thought that would be really funny? Why don't we call Amsoil and ask them how flow rates compare?
There's a hill nearby, that's very steep and very long. If I do any intake work, I'll measure trap speed at the top of that hill, with a rolling start from the bottom to eliminate variations and shifting at the same rpm (only one shift is required), then compare the two.
You'll note that I wrote 'FWIW' at the beginning of my post. Translation: "For What It's Worth." Of course it's slanted to K&N's favor--although they fully document the filters used and so on.
I might add that if you're short on cash and really feel K&N is lying, you could sue them for big bucks for misrepresentation and false advertising. In this day and age I doubt they'd risk a lawsuit, so there must be some measure of truth to the claims.
Not that I care either way, hehehe. I'm just parroting what is written on the side of my K&N filter box. Unlike the recent Amsoil filter install described here by a poster, the K&N works pretty well for me and coupled with the Stromung exhaust you can definitely feel a power gain. Why spend money if there isn't a noticeable increase?
My conclusion: Unless you're drag racing all the time or driving off-road a lot, both brands should do fine. At the worst, you have a reusable filter that will save you $$ in the long run.
To blame his V8's death on the air filter is a bit ridiculous. I ran 107k miles on my engine with the K&N and it never even burned oil.
It's counter-intuitive to me, though, that the K&N would trap less dirt than a paper filter. It just seems liks any "wet" filter would grab (and hold) dirt much better.
My K&N used to get filthy, more visibly so than paper filters would. It was a pain to clean, but trapping dirt didn't seem to be a problem, at least.
Hey - I finally, finally saw the Motorweek episode that featured the 22B. Sweet!
Theirs hit 60 in 5.5 seconds, even though the clutch was fried. C&D tested one that reached 60 in the low 4's. They raved about the handling.
They also had a project car they called the RX, which was essentially a slammed RS coupe. It had a turbo, intake, exhaust, recaros, suspension, and wheels/tires, and hit 60 in a whopping 5.1 seconds! Though the handling wasn't as balanced as the 22B, and they said it had typical tuner car hard edges.
Intake noise, perhaps? %*}
The footage also had a group of i Clubbers from this area - some I recognized. One guy had a turbo kit, STi wing, etc. Another slammed an Outback Sport with turbo and, get this, NITROUS! In an OBS! Ramon - it can be done!
I taped part of it - but not the first few minutes (had to rewind the tape). At least I got to see it all.
The guy with the turbo kit was Adam Bloom, a young investment banker in Long Island. He's installing a nearly-new WRX STi version 6 engine (claimed 280HP, 255lb-ft) and already has a WRX transmission installed from a type RA, so it's has gear ratios appropriate for rally. Anyway, he sold the turbo kit to a guy in the UK! I suspect the UK guy will be building up a 2.5L. Now here's the ironic part. Adam had a 2.5L turbo and is going to the WRX STi motor. Jay (in the UK) had a WRX STi 4 and is probably building a 2.5L turbo. Just seems funny to me.
The outback with nitrous was Kevin Thomas. He posts infrequently on the iclub, used to post more.
Is that the same Adam that put the turbo kit for sale at the i Club forum? Must be.
That swap is bizarre. I guess their just gear heads and love to keep experimenting with mods. Perhaps UK guy is looking for more torque, while Adam wants the higher revving 2 liter?
Wish I had that kind of "play" money.
-juice
PS Guess they became celebrities at i Club after that Motorweek episode, eh?
yeah, he's adam99rs on the iclub. A polite way of saying it would be that each wants what they don't have. A more critical way would be that Jay already knows what a tweaked 2.0L turbo feels like and wants more displacement.
Hmm, attack the corner and lift, can you say drop-throttle oversteer?
I wonder if you ran over something that caused the tire to lift momentarily.
Mine haven't rubbed, and I have had it loaded down to the full payload. I went 10mm wider than the Forester S, though, you went 20mm. Also, my wheels' offset so the tires are further out.
Which is why I'm getting fender flares. Like Dr. Ruth says, to keep it clean.
When I get home the fender flares I ordered may arrive, so we may have some more mods to chat about next week.
The hitch is on back order, so that'll be early August. Oh well...
Comments
Juice....you were right. SOA does offer incentives, but I've never been real big on that.
After 20 years of selling their parts, so far I've received certificates (worth nothing) and I did win the Circle of Excellence once.
I got a gold Subaru ring and a check for $500.00
I would rather sell their products at a reasonable price than win anything they offer.
(wish all dealer parts depts. would think that way)
We can let that be like hot dogs: we don't need to know how it's made, we just know we like 'em!
Don't mind me, I'm just thinking out loud...
-juice
And I still have retail customers.
Darlene
Got some feedback on the MAF sensor failure due to the intake.
After further back and forth emaail, I'm about 95% into buying the intake. The 5% is just the worry I guess...purchasing a product from a company out of the US, although they have the experience and reputation (not to mention they deal with Imprezas, WRX's, etc.) I guess warranty is selling the 5% doubt.
Anyway, this is what he replied when I mentioned what you told me:
The only reason that the MAF sensor would fail is that the filter has been reoiled and TOO MUCH oil applied. The oil (and I mean way too much - so it
is dripping off the filter) can be sucked through and coat the sensor (more than what can be burnt off during the normal cleaning cycle). To have this happen though is being REALLY negligent. It has never happened to any cars that we have fitted the Rampod to (Liberty's, WRX's, 2L Imprezas, etc).
Hey...here's a dumb question...
If I change the stock intake on MY00RS, that avoids me buying the K&N air filter right? Or is that another mod? Sorry for my naiveness, I just haven't seen a good pic where the intake replaces all. Like the Weapon R, I guess.
Thanks for any info.....
Try to take photos and notes whenever you do mods like this - I'll post them for you. I'm sure it'll come in handy to someone at some point.
-juice
Darlene is the greatest!
Frank P.
In reality MY99 Imprezas using a MAF sensor all over the world have experienced sensor failure at a rate much higher than earlier cars. Bad batch, bad design, who knows. Search the UK bbs if you are interested, there's a link at www.scoobynet.co.uk
-Colin
I have a photo of my hobby car before and after repaint. It's a bitmap and I don't know how to link it to my post. Please advise and I'll do it.
Colin:
I spoke with Mike Shields @ SPD last night. He told me that the bushings didn't need greasing and that they weren't greased on the Imprezas. (I owners: verify?) The clunk isn't regular but intermittent; I fear it's something in the cargo bay. I removed everything above and below decks in the bay save for the spare and the jack, and tightened them down so they wouldn't wiggle. My ears may not be sharp enough but I think the clunk is coming from just to the right of the spare. I'll be embarrassed but relieved if it's not something mechanical.
On the bummer side I think one or both rear wheel bearings are starting to fail. At 8500 mi. I don't think this is acceptable. I made a service appt. with the dealer who sold it to me for next Tuesday. Over the phone I got the impression that he knew this sort of thing has been happening to Foresters. A bit of tarnish appearing on this so-far shiny ride.
Darlene is the greatest!
Frank P.
I know Mike was the first real tuner on the scene in the US but he's wrong. He started out with an Impreza before the rest of us and followed rallying and talked to folks in the UK and Japan long before Subaru of America dreamed up the '98 2.5RS. That doesn't mean he's right about the bushing. Whiteline, Cusco and SYMS all ship a small tube of grease with their bars and bushings.
____
Now about the clunk, what about the tire tools?
-Colin
Ed
A couple notes on the installation:
- The overall shape and size seemed very close to the stock paper filter I was using. The bottom is made of a coarse foam and the top consists of finer foam and a wire mesh. The big difference is that the Amsoil filter is almost completely made from foam so it's "floppy" compared to the Subaru OE filter.
- The softness of the filter actually made it more difficult to get it to 'sit' square in the airbox. I had to try a couple times to make sure that the lower corner of the filter didn't dip downwards creating an ineffective seal.
- The airhose on top of the airbox makes it difficult to close the airbox. You need to push down a bit to get the lower clasps to fit properly.
- I needed to use a bit of elbow grease to get the airbox closed. It seems as though the Amsoil filter might be just a tad big when new. Maybe it's designed this way since foam will compact over time.
After about 20 minutes of wrestling with the airbox, I felt I had a good fit and took the Forester out for a spin. I took the engine revs up high but didn't notice any immediate difference.
Back in my garage, I proceeded to reset the ECU by removing fuse SBF-2 in the engine compartment.
Tip: Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry up one side of the fuse to get it out.
I let the car sit overnight, plugged the fuse back in this morning and started the engine cold. After some of the posts I've read on resetting the ECU, I was expecting the engine to run rough but it didn't seem any different from my normal startups. I wonder if leaving SBF-2 unplugged overnight is enough to drain the ECU capacitors.
After 15 minutes of idling, I shut the engine off, restarted and drove off to work. Again, I didn't perceive any difference in performance. I tried revving the engine up to about 4K but everything seemed the same -- no better no worse. I'll keep you all posted if I see any changes.
Colin -- is this similar to your experience?
Ken
You can have your photo hosted for free by PhotoPoint.
Then either share the URL, or used embedded HTML to put it in an actual post, right here.
Catch 22 - I can't show you the syntax because it would interpret it as HTML itself.
So, e-mail me for more hints if you'd like. Or, just e-mail me the original and I'll put it up on my site. That's the easiest for you, of course
-juice
Yes, I've been thinking I should be taking photos of all this stuff so I can share with other owners. I'll hopefully be getting a digital camera by year end so it'll make the process a lot simpler.
About refitting the airbox-- there is a hose clamp on the piece of flexhose you're talking about. I loosed that clamp and totally removed the whole assembly then when I reinstalled I moved it around to my liking. It is a bit challenging to close the intake box.
My car seems to rev easier, but I also removed the silencer / snorkel that draws air from the engine compartment. I'll say again that if you're thinking of doing this that there will be an audible intake honk for about 1000 RPM starting between 3500 and 4000 RPM at wide-open throttle.
-Colin
-juice
I wasn't too sure if it also applied to the Impreza. I heard the bushings didn't need the grease. C*ap, now I gotta get it greased up! I'm guessing the greasing occurs on the inner part of the bushing, right? (to flex btw the bushing and the sway bar...)?
Hey Juice,
Thnx. When I get the mod I'll take some pictures. I'll keep you guys (and gals) posted.
BigElm
Is the silencer/snorkel, that thin, closed tube that comes off of the airhose at about 90 degrees (don't know if it's the same on the 99s)?
Ken, that thing is might be some kind of resonator tube that damps reversion to keep the MAF from getting strange readings when the throttle snaps shut suddenly. It could also just smooth flow... Either way, I'm sure it was fluid modeled and the size and position chosen deliberately. I haven't touched anything between the airbox and throttle body.
When you replaced the filter, remember seeing that big round hole going into the fender? On the other side of that hole inside the fender is the silencer. It has a nearly direct path right back through the fender into the engine compartment, but it also feeds into a big silencer chamber (maybe 1-1.5 gallon displacement). The part that re-enters the engine bay has an L-shaped piece of plastic attached at the fender.
I've got to get a digital camera and send some stuff to juice, it would help so much.
-Colin
But Colin - isn't yours the SOHC model? Isn't the intake a lot different on yours?
Is your primary air filter above the block, toward the firewall, or to the left and up front, like DOHC
-juice
Way different from you '98 Forester guys?
-Colin
-juice
I labeled the various parts 1 thru 6, with 6 being out of the picture, though I believe it's similar to yours.
1 - filter housing
2 - air flow sensor, I'm guessing?
3 - overflow something or other?
4 - intake hose
5 - 2nd filter housing
6 - is that the snorkel you're talking about?
What I've heard is that you can't do much down stream from #2 to the DOHC engines, leaving us with few options.
What's the verdict?
-juice
Colin -- what I was referring to was #3 on juice's photos.
juice -- it was the combination of 2,3 & 4 that was making it difficult to get the air filter box top back on. The intake hose has a mind of it's own!
Also, if you do get the Amsoil, can you remove the 2nd air filter (in #5 I'm guessing) and use a gasket instead?
-juice
Indeed, the air filter goes in #1. What I meant to say was that it's difficult to close #1 because #2-4 are attached to it. They limit the motion of #1.
I know that you can remove the 2nd air filter on the Phase II engines, but I haven't heard anything about ours.
If 6 is underneath 1, then yes it's the silencer.
-Colin
What about removing the silencer, any noticeable difference, you think?
-juice
As far as whether or not you should remove the silencer... well, I *think* it did help from 4000 rpm up a bit, but the noise is a factor. Additionally it's not easy to remove or reinstall so that's something to consider. If it only took 5 minutes I'd say 'go for it' without reservations...
-Colin
Amsoil Foam 376cfm
New Paper: 508cfm
K&N: 887
At least amsoil's comparison charts (bar graphs, really) depict their filter as flowing roughly equal to cotton gauze (k&n) but they rate the particle filtration and reusability higher.
-Colin
-Colin
Of course, there is the placebo effect. Whenever you get something new you're hoping for more power, and may even drive a bit harder to wring it out.
Colin: how long to take the silencer out? Did you rig it to pull air from outside the engine compartment, and if so, how?
-juice
There's a hill nearby, that's very steep and very long. If I do any intake work, I'll measure trap speed at the top of that hill, with a rolling start from the bottom to eliminate variations and shifting at the same rpm (only one shift is required), then compare the two.
-juice
I might add that if you're short on cash and really feel K&N is lying, you could sue them for big bucks for misrepresentation and false advertising. In this day and age I doubt they'd risk a lawsuit, so there must be some measure of truth to the claims.
Not that I care either way, hehehe. I'm just parroting what is written on the side of my K&N filter box. Unlike the recent Amsoil filter install described here by a poster, the K&N works pretty well for me and coupled with the Stromung exhaust you can definitely feel a power gain. Why spend money if there isn't a noticeable increase?
You should tape some audio of the exhaust and put it up on your site - that would be schweet.
-juice
http://www.amsoil.com/products/G44_bar.gif
Kind of laughable, but it kind of shows that there is equally unconvincing data from both sides.
In general, it seems as though K&N flows better but doesn't do as good a job in trapping dirt.
Here's an interesting link:
http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/toy_root/techtalk/engine/air_fltr.htm
My conclusion: Unless you're drag racing all the time or driving off-road a lot, both brands should do fine. At the worst, you have a reusable filter that will save you $$ in the long run.
To blame his V8's death on the air filter is a bit ridiculous. I ran 107k miles on my engine with the K&N and it never even burned oil.
It's counter-intuitive to me, though, that the K&N would trap less dirt than a paper filter. It just seems liks any "wet" filter would grab (and hold) dirt much better.
My K&N used to get filthy, more visibly so than paper filters would. It was a pain to clean, but trapping dirt didn't seem to be a problem, at least.
-juice
If you're like me though you'll actually spend 60-90 minutes doing it.
-Colin
6 hours for a silencer. Boy!
-juice
Theirs hit 60 in 5.5 seconds, even though the clutch was fried. C&D tested one that reached 60 in the low 4's. They raved about the handling.
They also had a project car they called the RX, which was essentially a slammed RS coupe. It had a turbo, intake, exhaust, recaros, suspension, and wheels/tires, and hit 60 in a whopping 5.1 seconds! Though the handling wasn't as balanced as the 22B, and they said it had typical tuner car hard edges.
Intake noise, perhaps? %*}
The footage also had a group of i Clubbers from this area - some I recognized. One guy had a turbo kit, STi wing, etc. Another slammed an Outback Sport with turbo and, get this, NITROUS! In an OBS! Ramon - it can be done!
I taped part of it - but not the first few minutes (had to rewind the tape). At least I got to see it all.
-juice
The outback with nitrous was Kevin Thomas. He posts infrequently on the iclub, used to post more.
-Colin
That swap is bizarre. I guess their just gear heads and love to keep experimenting with mods. Perhaps UK guy is looking for more torque, while Adam wants the higher revving 2 liter?
Wish I had that kind of "play" money.
-juice
PS Guess they became celebrities at i Club after that Motorweek episode, eh?
-Colin
I'll have to set up a bogus free account just to register.
Jeez. The Emunds folks offer much better support.
-juice
I actually had that problem too but it was immediately after the last big redesign (June 99).
-Colin
I wonder if you ran over something that caused the tire to lift momentarily.
Mine haven't rubbed, and I have had it loaded down to the full payload. I went 10mm wider than the Forester S, though, you went 20mm. Also, my wheels' offset so the tires are further out.
Which is why I'm getting fender flares. Like Dr. Ruth says, to keep it clean.
When I get home the fender flares I ordered may arrive, so we may have some more mods to chat about next week.
The hitch is on back order, so that'll be early August. Oh well...
-juice