...will produce no significant change in handling UNTIL the car is really at the limit of its cornering capacity. It is at this point that lateral flex becomes noticeable and, therefore, a brace really makes a difference. Or so I am told
Just curious: how disarming to oncoming drivers would it be if I replaced just the fog lamp bulbs with Hella Premium H3s? I'm okay with the factory headlamps' illumination (thought that may change with my age in a couple of years) but I honestly haven't seen where the fogs improve my vision - only make my car more visible to oncomers. Maybe it hasn't been foggy enough when I used them?
Thanks for the info...I think the Hella Optilux is the way to go. I wasnt planning on buying replacements for the foglight, but do you think it will improve visibility at all? If I do get foglights should I also go with the Optilux bulbs?
Also, how hard is it to replace the light bulbs? I am pretty handy but I dont want to damage the car.
lark6: the fog lights are aimed too low to be of much use. I've adjusted them all the way up and it's still only useful very close up. Go for the new bulbs on the regular headlights.
ramon: that reminds, me. Was it you or Colin that saw a carbon fiber strut tower brace that broke?
Anyway, if that's the case, there is definitely some serious stress going on there, at least at the limit (in autoX, for example).
If you want to go for the yellow light for the foglamps, I'd go with the PIAA ion crystal bulbs. All of the other yellow bulbs seem to compromise some brightness for the colour. Autosupermart.com sells the PIAA Superwhites and Ion Crystal bulbs.
The foglamps are supposed to spread light low and wide, below the fog so that the light doesn't reflect back into your eyes. If you really want to improve visibility significantly, driving lamps are the way to go. They extend down the road more than 10X further than your foglamps.
AFAIK, the Forester uses the 55w H4 bulbs for both the low and high beams (you'll need a pair of these) and 55w H3 bulbs for the foglamps.
The bulbs should be pretty easy to change. Instructions are in your owner's manual. Just be careful not to touch the glass with your fingers. The oil from your skin can dramatically reduce bulb life. If you do touch the glass, you should clean off the oil with some rubbing alcohol.
I just have to say: please not another massive thread on replacement lamps, HID, Xenon, whatever, etc. Check the ealier posts, there were dozens back there, also in the other Subaru modifications topic. Tnx, DZ
bykston -- One thing to note is that higher temperature light (blue) will scatter more in rain, sleet & snow than lower temperature light (red). Yellow lights benefit you in that they reduce glare under such conditions. I don't think it will make a big deal with the Optilux bulbs, but they do have a higher color temperature than standard halogens.
Since the PIAAs/Optilux/Bluevisions/CoolBlues bulbs are higher in colour temperature, but a more intense white (and not at all blue like those cheap immitation blue tinted bulbs), the scatter problem that Ken brought up is not an issue at all. The scatter and glare problem is also why those cheap immitation blue tinted bulbs, or the Hiper Whites/Blues, etc. are illegal.
I mentioned a while ago about a few comparison pictures that a Nissan Maxima owner snapped after swapping a variety of bulbs on his car. Here they are:
PIAA Superwhites on the driver's side, and Sylvania Cool Blues on the passenger side. Note that the PIAAs have a higher colour temperature (whiter with less yellow, but no blue whatsoever):
PIAAs on the left, and stock bulbs on the right:
Maxima with stock bulbs on the left, and Maxima with PIAAs in both headlamps and foglamps on the right:
nope. not me. I say you shud invest on a rear tower brace though. It would definitely strengthen the rear of your Forester big time! kick some CRV asses...
Juice: Thanks for the pat on the back, My police career spans almost 20 years here in NYC, and the change has been dramatic. Though I don't snap the cuffs on many perps anymore, I have been assigned to the Aviation Unit for the last five years:) I find myself coming back to this forum nightly now that my new soob is only 2 weeks from delivery! I too am a "gadget" guy:) I want to have some gadgets and mods ready to go when the new Forester arrives. So far I plan on replacing the stock headlight bulbs with the Hella Optilux units previously mentioned, by the way, what size and wattage is appropriate for the Forester? H4 100?. I would also like to install a gooseneck lamp or even a Grimes cockpit chart light in the cabin, I will look into this further and advise. I regret my decision to order the "S" w/o the premium package now:( So many of you have waxed poetic on the moonroof...oh well I still can not wait to officially join your ranks!
100 watt bulbs may cause problems with your headlamp setup. I suggest that you stick with the stock 55 watts instead. H4 style bulbs are for your high/low beams and H3 for your foglamps.
How about an autodimming rearview mirror as your next gadget? ;-)
ramon: yeah, baby, but I already do that routinely!
The rear brace blocks the cargo area, doesn't it? Plus, I don't AutoX (yet, at least). Hmm, what class would a Forester run in, anyway? Ever seen one at an AutoX event?
Q: would the rear brace allow for oversteer (i.e. more or less)? Having fun is more important than ultimate speed to me.
I'm with Drew on the wattage. I've heard horror stories.
Can't stand those CRVs really. Well I know the Cusco rear towers brace can be easily unbolted if I want to move my rear seat down in my OBS. I would guess your Forester would use the same brace as my OBS too. No I have yet to see any Foresters autoXing. Would be awesome to see Foresters, CRVs, RAV4s, Xterras and other tiny utes racing thru a rallycross though!
James -- Here's a crazy thought -- if you really wanted the Premium S and aren't in a rush, have the dealer change your order. It might piss them off, but hey, it's your $25K. Spend it the way you want on what you want. I wouldn't want to spend the next few years thinking "I should have gotten the Premium". Also, I'm sure the dealer would be able to sell the vehicle you current have on order.
Ramon & juice,
Here's a link to a Japanese Forester's owner website where he shows how to install a rear strut tower in a Forester. The text is all in Japanese, but there are enough pictures to make it worthwhile to look at.
The guy comments that he can still recline his rear seat about 3 "clicks" so the tower really doesn't get in the way for everyday use.
I concur with Ken. If you like S+, change your order. Foresters sell very well, so I don't think dealer would be all that unhappy. I know, it's unpleasant thing to do, but if you like S+, go for it. I planned to buy L, but found S+ so much more attractive and loaded! I find the price difference between S and S+ quite small, for all the extra goodies you get.
I was grumbling on this forum a couple weeks ago about how Subaru no longer sells inexpensive cars. After that I did a thorough price comparison on CR-V, RAV-4 and Forester, and I have to admit you just cannot beat Forester's value. Some of the options you get on low-end Forester L, are not available on high-end CR-V or RAV-4.
Ken & Kate: The thought did cross my mind! My situation is that I am returning a leased vehicle when my Forester is ready, I tried to get the lease end and the new soob to coincide. I know it's possible to extend a lease but I am already 1000 over the allotted mileage, and I sense that expensive items might start to balk soon! The moonroof IS nice, no question! Here's my plan: I am going to the dealer tomorrow to see what his August Forester allocation consists of, if there is a Premium avail with most of my option choices, I am on it! If not, I will love my new S without the extra opening! Drew: Ordered the auto-dimming mirror/compass from the get-go! I wish I could afford to put some avionics in too!
Avionics? ;-) How about a nice Alpine GPS system? That ought to make up partially for it.
WRT the map lights, I've seen some pretty nifty ones at an Import car accessory store. They were imported from Japan, I believe, and used LEDs (blue or red) instead of bulbs. Some were even custom made for particular vehicles (ex. Integra Type R printed in nice lettering on the unit). They plugged directly into the cigarette lighter outlet, or had little extensions. I have to say that I was tempted (they were only about CDN$25), even though my vehicle already has 4 map lights in front.
The autodimming mirror is great. It makes night time driving so much easier. Juice, do you have this gadget yet?
Donnelly sells an autodimming mirror with both compass AND map lights at the base of the mirror (best position since you don't get blinded at night). Check it out here: http://www.donnellye.com/prod02.htm
Don't worry guys, I won't go down that long road again. I just didn't recall anyone addressing the issue of replacing only the fogs - which I guess I won't do.
Forester tripped over 10K miles this AM on the way to work. I'd call it an unqualified blast but for the rear wheel bearings going at 8900 and the faulty fuel gauge sensors. Hope neither recurs as the driving and utility experience has been great.
Cool, nice not to limit ourselves to US mods! The finished job looks good, too.
It's just that I fold down the seats quite often, it seems.
Notice the head rests are different than any US Forester?
Sorry to pile on the pressure, but $896 @invoice for the side air bags, the moonroof as big as the Texas sky (per Motorweek), and the monotone paint are easily worth it.
You could always add it afterwards, like I did, but it won't be that size.
No, Drew. Not yet
ramon: well, yes, sort of. It's really a "test drive", but it's completely unsupervised, and the staff were giving us tips like "turn the Trac OFF". Our kind of guys.
You got one lap, but Hutch and I rode together and kept swapping, so we went progressively faster. It felt like a mini autoX, and was definitely the hardest I've ever pushed each of these vehicles.
They lined up cones for a quick acceleration test (to about 40mph), then a right/left/right handling area, followed by a slalom (6 cones in the SUV area, only 3 with the Bimmer and Lexus). Then it was two hair pin lefts, and zig and a zag. The off road section was next, and finally, a bumpy area to try out the ride, and a braking area.
We did every test (except my first, to learn the course) ALL OUT. Tires were howling the entire time, pedal to the medal. It's a ball.
I just bought a Alpine Flex-4 amp to drive my 6x9s in the rear hatch of the OB. The reason being is that I blew one of the 6x9s from pushing too much bass and the head unit clipped, and blew the speaker.
The Flex-4 amp was $183 US (bought in Canada for 279 including taxes from Natural Sound in Kitchener, Ontario). It's 4-channel and has hi-lo pass filters, so that I can add a Bazooka passive tube later. I'm getting it installed on Monday.
Forget to mention the head unit I'm using is a Sony Minidisc player (5970) which is 35x4 watts currently driving 8 speakers. (Subaru tweeters, stock fronts, stock rears, and the Sony Xplod 6x9s I added in the rear). The amp I'm adding (Flex-4) will help immensely in reducing the load on the head unit while getting more volume out of the 6x9s.
If anyone is interested in knowing - I'm having the amp installed right underneath the cargo mat cover in the storage compartment above the temp wheel. Height and width wise it fits well. May have to drill a hole to allow proper ventilation though.
they have new heads and camshafts available. Now we're talking! They say the stock ECU is very limiting in their ability to make a good cam...too bad, cos I know we can order Japanese Zero/Sports, SYMS or Prova chips.
>>..the head unit I'm using is a Sony Minidisc player..<<
Cool, I just bought my wife a portable minidisk player/recorder to replace her old cassette walkman. She likes it a lot, and I'm going to be borrowing it next month when I go out of town. I'm surprised they aren't as popular in the US as they are in other countries. About how much for a mobile unit like yours?
I paid about $300 US for mine last year on sale. You can find some models with prices listed at Planet Minidisc at http://www.planetminidisc.com/carmd.html. (Crutchfield has a whole set of others (but they're more expensive.)
One things for sure -- you can't beat the ease of use in the car. They're small and less likely to be damaged because of their protective casings than CDs are.
Heyas. Just to confirm everything after I read all the responses, if I want to put my bike on the rear of my Forester, then I should consider the rear hitch over the roof rack. I currently have the roof one but it's too high to lift (and I'm about 5'10") my bike. So I figure I'll see if I can sellback the roof rack...and I guess I'll get the rear hitch and bike hitch.
Question: Is it fairly easy for *ME* to take off the bike hitch when I don't want it on, like for the winter months?
Also, does the ball hitch itself add any length to the Forester?
Also, the consensus was to NOT use one of those tabbed rear racks, right?
I have a Thule bike rack that goes into a 1/4" U-haul hitch. This is secured by one screw. Easy to put on / easy to take off.
If you don't plan on doing any towing, no need to get extension w/ ball (which would stick out). I don't have the extension and can't see the hitch on my Outback without looking carefully.
Not sure what you mean by tabbed rear rack, but bikes sit on two rubber pieces with straps that rap around the bike frame. The Thule also folds out away from the car so I can get access to the rear.
For my last car, a Plymouth Acclaim, I had bought a removable rack that was mounted on the trunk and secured by these "tabs" which both were in the back of the trunk as well as the sides and the bottom of the car. Know what I mean? So the tires were loose and hanging, while the bike itself was secured horizontally on the frame.
I don't know if that would work on the Forester due to the height change, but maybe such a thing exists. That way, I don't need a ball hitch for the times I don't want the bike on, and also I can safely remove the bike rack whenever.
The Subaru hitch receiver is just that -- just a receiver. It is a Class I hitch (1.25 inch, 200 lb tongue weight, 2000 lb trailer weight) and it just presents a square hole into which you plug something else. It *comes with* a steel plug-in that takes a ball; you have to buy the ball separately.
To use the hitch with a bike rack, you get a bike rack thing that plugs in to the receiver. There is still no ball, just a steel riser that plug into the receiver, goes back a way, then bends around to come up to where the rack itself hangs. Most (all?) of these are actually hinged as well, so that you can swing them down out of the way in order to open the back of the car, without having to remove them entirely from the hitch.
The relatively low tongue weight of a Class I hitch (200 lbs) limits the number of bikes you are supposed to put on a hitch-mounted rack, usually to two. This is one place those bigger SUVs have an advantage -- they mostly have Class III receivers.
>>I had bought a removable rack that was mounted on the trunk and secured by these "tabs" which both were in the back of the trunk as well as the sides and the bottom of the car. <<
I have one of those. Mine is made by Rhode Gear. You can use them on almost any vehicle, no matter the height. I put it on the back of my old Plymouth Voyager and carried two bikes from Missouri to New Hamshire and back. The misconception you seem to have is that the top bar must be "over the top" like it is when you put it on the trunk of the car. In the case of an SUV or van, the upper tabs slip into the top edge of the lift gate, and the upper bar (with foam collars of course) rests on the rear windshield. It sounds a little weird pressing that weight against glass, but even on the very large piece on the back of the Voyager it was not problem. It's a little trickier getting it in place, but once you get the straps tightened, it's quite secure. I've also used it on the back of my Legacy Wagon when I was carrying four bikes. (the other two on the roof)
Finally getting back in the groove, just cooling down from a sweltering autocross. I chugged probably 2.5 gallons of water over 6.5 hours in the sun, but I still felt a little dizzy after chasing cones. Work early, run late... Gotta remember that next year. (I have a permanent number.)
Anyway, as of the 5th (of 6) heat I was holding down 2nd in STS. This class allows a fair bit of modifications, but no lightening (i.e. gutting) and maximum 225mm wide street tires. I was beat by the same Saturn SC2 that always beats me-- it's a lighter car but I've got him badly in traction and power, but the real difference is the driver. I'm getting there though.
DaveZ was mentioning something about Cobb Tuning's new parts. Their cams and heads are going to be ready for sale soon, but it's not cheap. Clearly they are recouping their R&D expense, which is their right, but I'd have to see some compelling dyno gains (which they are dyno testing very soon) and even then the cost versus what I think it's worth isn't looking good.
I've had a number of conversations with Trey and I really respect him, but $650 for reground cams (after you get your $400 core refund) is a bit hard to swallow. The dyno will tell, but I would think the conservative nature of the cams (they're published on the site) to work with the OBDII ecu hurts them. To me it would be smarter to drop $1,000-2,000 on a fully programmable ECU and then get wilder cams.
Maybe I should have been an AMC hotrodder in my former life instead of a Chevy guy. The sticker shock of all these (very) low volume Subaru parts still gets me.
-Colin PS, my latest modification will be front & rear pairs of solid swaybar links. Stock are some sort of hard plastic, which deflects before the bar starts to twist. This gives a strange handling sensation and I'll report on the performance and NVH change when I get them in 3-6 weeks.
Good to have u back with us, your tech knowledge is a great asset to us here! I, too, am waiting for those dyno results. Though by now I am only slightly shocked at Subaru perf. prices. They seem to be de rigeur.
Back to Paeco: I got their catalog and they offer 2.5L SOHC cams in three different grinds for around $300, but again, I've never known anyone who actually HAD one!
I tried for the final time to put my bike on the Yakima roof rack, but no go. I think my bike is just too big for the rack; is that possible? I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara.
I still have that Rhode Island Gear mountable rack for the trunk, so I'll be bringing it to the bike store this week to have it installed since I lost the manual and can't figure it out.
Then, I'll have to go to Subaru and see if they can take the roof rack back - they must - even if to prove my bike can't fit on it.
I tried for the final time to put my bike on the Yakima roof rack, but no go. I think my bike is just too big for the rack; is that possible? I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara.
I still have that Rhode Island Gear mountable rack for the trunk, so I'll be bringing it to the bike store this week to have it installed since I lost the manual and can't figure it out.
Then, I'll have to go to Subaru and see if they can take the roof rack back - they must - even if to prove my bike can't fit on it.
>>I tried for the final time to put my bike on the Yakima roof rack, but no go. I think my bike is just too big for the rack; is that possible? I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara.<<
I'm not sure what a Gary Fisher Tassajara looks like, but I can tell you that some bikes will not attach to the rack you get from Subaru. The people at Yakima, who manufactures the rack, told me it wouldn't work with my bike. It's mostly a case of an aero down tube that the clamp thingy can't get around securely. However I was able to get a different type of Yakima rack called the Ankle Biter that works with virtually any bike by attaching to the crank instead of the down tube.
I was going to suggest checking your owners manual to see how to install the strap on rack, but since you don't have it, yeah, the folks at a bike shop will know how. If I had more time I'd throw mine on the back of my wagon and take a picture of it, but it's getting late. Maybe tomorrow if I have time. Good luck.
Maybe you could try the roof mount that requires front wheel removal - it is a lot easier because with the front wheel removed you don't have to lift the bike nearly as high. Plus, I have yet to find a front fork that didn't go into a fork mount rack. I had this same setup on my Jeep GC which has a higher roof than the Forester or my Outback - no problem and I'm 5'10 also.
2ndwnd: The specific problem with the bike and rack was the straps which were supposed to clamp the tires...well, if the strap is in the middle of one tire, it is on the edge of the other tire. Maybe the rack needs adjustment for the bike? Also, the raising tower thing which is supposed to clamp onto the spoke doesn't seem to stretch wide enough. Too much of a hassle. I'll prolly just return it and use the trunk one by Rhode.
John: I've seen those, but never heard of a specially-ordered one. Are they cheap?
Ash: holy cow! Should sound sweet! Got photos of the finished product?
guxx: I can relate. My bikes are heavy with all my accessories, so lifting them is a pain (literally). You can probably sell the bike rack in the i Club classifieds.
The Rhode Gear rack is likely much better than my Allen rack, which is junk.
If you do get the hitch mounted rack, I've been pleased. It's easy to remove, just one bolt.
Since you asked, the hitch itself is tucked away nicely and does not even affect the angle of departure. You add the hitch receiver and it sticks out almost a foot or so (as the shin I banged into it this weekend proves).
I bought a hitch ball this weekend, too, since RSHolland came by with his trailer. I got a 2" ball, with a 3/4" bolt (that's the size of the hole in the Subaru OE hitch receiver).
I'll share photos later.
Colin: how much for the solid sway bar links? I was under the rear and noticed the Forester has rubber (!) links that I'm sure cancel much of the benefit of having a sway bar in the first place.
If you could, take photos, so I can determine if they are the same as mine. The track is wider on the Forester, so I'm not sure.
Good point Juice. I'll go ahead and order this digital camera I've had my eye on for a while. (ps for anyone shopping -- c/net has some good reviews and price queries. great stuff.)
I'm getting the links for $50 each pair, which is a lot less than locals sell them for. At least two people have machined their own but I think the Whiteline links are fine-- even if they are a simple rolled coil of steel. (The machined ones are aluminum.)
It does make a difference but what happens is that the play in the rubber/plastic links is more pronounced. Say a 20mm bar gives 2.5x the torsional rigidity of the stock 13mm bar (the math is actually easy to compute, but it's not needed here). What happens though is that for the first 1-2" of twist the bar doesn't twist-- it just takes up the slop in the links. You keep cornering hard and suddenly the full force of the 20mm is there in living color.
I just got a Forester and am looking for the bike rack. Can you tell me how much is was? I also have a Gary Fisher bike so I'm curious as to if it will fit.
kenric: FYI, QSubaru sells the roof bike rack for $170 with clamps and shipping included.
The hitch bike rack is just under $156 but requires that you have a hitch, of course. It clamps on to the top bar in the frame, but has rubber to protect the finish. The bike does not touch the car.
Hey everyone, I finally had PIAA 1000 series driving lights installed on my wifes OB at Showcase Custom Automotive (south of St. Louis). If my stupid scanner worked there would be a picture here. For now just imagine them mounted under the bumper next to the licence plate where there is an narrow wide cavity (they are recessed into the cavity). I selected PIAAs over the CATZ MSX because they cost less. The CATZ may actually fit better but I'm not sure.
The REASON: I really did not like the low beam performance on the 2k OB so this was primarily done to try and combat what I(and my wife) considered poor visibility at night. In particular, she was unhappy with the low beam performance in the driving through poorly lit sections of town where high beams could not be used because of traffic.
The GOOD: The difference, in one word.....WOW!!!!!! It's like someone turned on the sun!!!! You can blow out peoples rentinas if thats your thing. Currently, I have them aimed very conservatively but I am still messing with the angle. I do not want to upset other drivers so I am aiming them very carefully. They are extremely bright and would blind traffic if not properly aimed. I dont by into all the PIAA 55w=85w and Super White stuff but I have to say the the lamps are really impressive regardless of what one believes or not. The construction is also first rate when compared to the other makes of lamps I looked at (other than CATZ). They are very bright and they are also produce light that is extremely white. I could care less about the really white light. If they had a yellow tint like normal halogen lamps I would not have cared. I did not get the weird blue ones, just the clear ones. I dont have them wired hot so they turn off with the car so basically there is no way to leave them on. There is also a switch (comes with the kit) in the car to turn them on and off so I choose when and if to use them. You can also have them wired to automatically come on and off with the low beams. The total time for the job was under 2 hours. Enough time to eat at Red Lobster, dessert at Dairy Queen, then read the sports section of the paper.
The BAD: The lamps dont fit exactly flush (I knew they would not). They stick out a couple of cm beyond the bumper. If this bothers you then you may want to go with the CATZ or other brand. You can mount PIAA flush if you 1) dont want to have any play in aiming them or 2) want to cut the bumper behind the lamp. I did not want the bumper cut and I need to aim them low so mine stick out. Its more difficult to aim them properly then I thought. It takes lots of fiddling. I'm basically using a wall to aim them and then asking friends if they are offensive at I drive toward their cars. I'm eventually going keep them at the point where most(all???) dont mind.
The cost was approx. $320 including the lamps, installation, and tax. It can be done for less (about $25-35) but the guys as Showcase seemed the most willing to listen, seemed very competent, and gave me a price in writing. The cost of what I had done was a little more because I had some special wiring done (nothing big). If you do it yourself it then you can knock about $100 bucks off the price.
A plug for Showcase: They just opened a web page in case anyone wants to contact them or need specific information. I am not affiliated with them in any way at all. I was just happy with the work they did so I thought I would throw them a plug on this board. Their focus is slamming and lifting trucks/cars but they also so exhaust, tinting, and other performance/paint/show aftermarket work. http://www.showcaseauto.com/
In summary: The performance difference is truly AMAZING and totally worth the extra cash.
If someone wants a picture of my wifes 2k OB with the PIAAs to scan and put on their web site I can s-mail you a picture. I can be reached at sudhir2@genetics.wustl.edu
Why the Steelhead? I found it to provide the most secure hold on your bike and it accepts a wider range of bikes compared to the Lockjaw (same as Subaru OE bike rack).
The downside of the Steelhead is that it can only mount to a Yakima crossbar and you need to remove the front tire.
I believe I purchased everything (2 racks, crossbar, cross towers, adapters) for about $350-400.
Saturday was the i Club meet at Dave & Busters, and I made it a point to photograph some mods.
There was a sweet looking intake for the '98 Phase I engine (i.e. same as mine), with a partition to keep engine heat out. The tubing was labeled "Rallispec" but I think it's another name. Photos coming soon.
Took some photos of an exhaust, too, but I couldn't really get the underside.
The same RS had the twin spoiler from the STi - looked sweet. He had STi fog light covers, decals, all done tastefully.
No forced induction. Shucks.
Lots of home-made mods. Insulated tubing for cold air intakes. You guys MUST attend a similar event in your region.
Comments
I really need to get off my butt and get some Hella Premium H4's and Yellow Star H3's. I've been meaning to do that for some time now.
-Colin
Just curious: how disarming to oncoming drivers would it be if I replaced just the fog lamp bulbs with Hella Premium H3s? I'm okay with the factory headlamps' illumination (thought that may change with my age in a couple of years) but I honestly haven't seen where the fogs improve my vision - only make my car more visible to oncomers. Maybe it hasn't been foggy enough when I used them?
Also, how hard is it to replace the light bulbs? I am pretty handy but I dont want to damage the car.
ramon: that reminds, me. Was it you or Colin that saw a carbon fiber strut tower brace that broke?
Anyway, if that's the case, there is definitely some serious stress going on there, at least at the limit (in autoX, for example).
-juice
If you want to go for the yellow light for the foglamps, I'd go with the PIAA ion crystal bulbs. All of the other yellow bulbs seem to compromise some brightness for the colour. Autosupermart.com sells the PIAA Superwhites and Ion Crystal bulbs.
The foglamps are supposed to spread light low and wide, below the fog so that the light doesn't reflect back into your eyes. If you really want to improve visibility significantly, driving lamps are the way to go. They extend down the road more than 10X further than your foglamps.
AFAIK, the Forester uses the 55w H4 bulbs for both the low and high beams (you'll need a pair of these) and 55w H3 bulbs for the foglamps.
The bulbs should be pretty easy to change. Instructions are in your owner's manual. Just be careful not to touch the glass with your fingers. The oil from your skin can dramatically reduce bulb life. If you do touch the glass, you should clean off the oil with some rubbing alcohol.
bykston -- One thing to note is that higher temperature light (blue) will scatter more in rain, sleet & snow than lower temperature light (red). Yellow lights benefit you in that they reduce glare under such conditions. I don't think it will make a big deal with the Optilux bulbs, but they do have a higher color temperature than standard halogens.
DZ -- Point taken. Nuff said on this topic.
but a more intense white (and not at all blue like those cheap immitation blue tinted bulbs), the scatter problem that Ken brought up is not an issue at all. The scatter and glare problem is also why those cheap immitation blue tinted bulbs, or the Hiper Whites/Blues, etc. are illegal.
I mentioned a while ago about a few comparison pictures that a Nissan Maxima owner snapped after swapping a variety of bulbs on his car. Here they are:
PIAA Superwhites on the driver's side, and Sylvania Cool Blues on the passenger side. Note that the PIAAs have a higher colour temperature (whiter with less yellow, but no blue whatsoever):
PIAAs on the left, and stock bulbs on the right:
Maxima with stock bulbs on the left, and Maxima with PIAAs in both headlamps and foglamps on the right:
I say you shud invest on a rear tower brace though. It would definitely strengthen the rear of your Forester big time! kick some CRV asses...
-James
How about an autodimming rearview mirror as your next gadget? ;-)
Drew
The rear brace blocks the cargo area, doesn't it? Plus, I don't AutoX (yet, at least). Hmm, what class would a Forester run in, anyway? Ever seen one at an AutoX event?
Q: would the rear brace allow for oversteer (i.e. more or less)? Having fun is more important than ultimate speed to me.
I'm with Drew on the wattage. I've heard horror stories.
-juice
Well I know the Cusco rear towers brace can be easily unbolted if I want to move my rear seat down in my OBS. I would guess your Forester would use the same brace as my OBS too.
No I have yet to see any Foresters autoXing.
Would be awesome to see Foresters, CRVs, RAV4s, Xterras and other tiny utes racing thru a rallycross though!
Basically, we did race Foresters, CR-Vs, RAV4s, and XTerras though a mini rally cross! Plus 4Runners, Durangos, and Grand Vitaras.
The CR-V was leaning and onto its sidewalls at the first cone. Needs VTEC too.
In that class, Forester rules. Even stock.
-juice
Ramon & juice,
Here's a link to a Japanese Forester's owner website where he shows how to install a rear strut tower in a Forester. The text is all in Japanese, but there are enough pictures to make it worthwhile to look at.
The guy comments that he can still recline his rear seat about 3 "clicks" so the tower really doesn't get in the way for everyday use.
http://member.nifty.ne.jp/andou/rtower.htm
I concur with Ken. If you like S+, change your order. Foresters sell very well, so I don't think dealer would be all that unhappy. I know, it's unpleasant thing to do, but if you like S+, go for it. I planned to buy L, but found S+ so much more attractive and loaded! I find the price difference between S and S+ quite small, for all the extra goodies you get.
I was grumbling on this forum a couple weeks ago about how Subaru no longer sells inexpensive cars. After that I did a thorough price comparison on CR-V, RAV-4 and Forester, and I have to admit you just cannot beat Forester's value. Some of the options you get on low-end Forester L, are not available on high-end CR-V or RAV-4.
The moonroof IS nice, no question! Here's my plan: I am going to the dealer tomorrow to see what his August Forester allocation consists of, if there is a Premium avail with most of my option choices, I am on it! If not, I will love my new S without the extra opening!
Drew: Ordered the auto-dimming mirror/compass from the get-go! I wish I could afford to put some avionics in too!
WRT the map lights, I've seen some pretty nifty ones at an Import car accessory store. They were imported from Japan, I believe, and used LEDs (blue or red) instead of bulbs. Some were even custom made for particular vehicles (ex. Integra Type R printed in nice lettering on the unit). They plugged directly into the cigarette lighter outlet, or had little extensions. I have to say that I was tempted (they were only about CDN$25), even though my vehicle already has 4 map lights in front.
The autodimming mirror is great. It makes night time driving so much easier. Juice, do you have this gadget yet?
Drew
Forester tripped over 10K miles this AM on the way to work. I'd call it an unqualified blast but for the rear wheel bearings going at 8900 and the faulty fuel gauge sensors. Hope neither recurs as the driving and utility experience has been great.
It's just that I fold down the seats quite often, it seems.
Notice the head rests are different than any US Forester?
Sorry to pile on the pressure, but $896 @invoice for the side air bags, the moonroof as big as the Texas sky (per Motorweek), and the monotone paint are easily worth it.
You could always add it afterwards, like I did, but it won't be that size.
No, Drew. Not yet
ramon: well, yes, sort of. It's really a "test drive", but it's completely unsupervised, and the staff were giving us tips like "turn the Trac OFF". Our kind of guys.
You got one lap, but Hutch and I rode together and kept swapping, so we went progressively faster. It felt like a mini autoX, and was definitely the hardest I've ever pushed each of these vehicles.
They lined up cones for a quick acceleration test (to about 40mph), then a right/left/right handling area, followed by a slalom (6 cones in the SUV area, only 3 with the Bimmer and Lexus). Then it was two hair pin lefts, and zig and a zag. The off road section was next, and finally, a bumpy area to try out the ride, and a braking area.
We did every test (except my first, to learn the course) ALL OUT. Tires were howling the entire time, pedal to the medal. It's a ball.
-juice
The Flex-4 amp was $183 US (bought in Canada for 279 including taxes from Natural Sound in Kitchener, Ontario). It's 4-channel and has hi-lo pass filters, so that I can add a Bazooka passive tube later. I'm getting it installed on Monday.
Should sound good !
-- ash
If anyone is interested in knowing - I'm having the amp installed right underneath the cargo mat cover in the storage compartment above the temp wheel. Height and width wise it fits well. May have to drill a hole to allow proper ventilation though.
-- ash
they have new heads and camshafts available. Now we're talking! They say the stock ECU is very limiting in their ability to make a good cam...too bad, cos I know we can order Japanese Zero/Sports, SYMS or Prova chips.
Anyone know of reviews of the Cobb equipment?
Sony Minidisc player..<<
Cool, I just bought my wife a portable minidisk player/recorder to replace her old cassette walkman. She likes it a lot, and I'm going to be borrowing it next month when I go out of town. I'm surprised they aren't as popular in the US as they are in other countries. About how much for a mobile unit like yours?
Dave B
One things for sure -- you can't beat the ease of use in the car. They're small and less likely to be damaged because of their protective casings than CDs are.
There's more on Minidiscs at http://www.minidisc.org
-- ash
Question: Is it fairly easy for *ME* to take off the bike hitch when I don't want it on, like for the winter months?
Also, does the ball hitch itself add any length to the Forester?
Also, the consensus was to NOT use one of those tabbed rear racks, right?
Thanks alot!
If you don't plan on doing any towing, no need to get extension w/ ball (which would stick out). I don't have the extension and can't see the hitch on my Outback without looking carefully.
Not sure what you mean by tabbed rear rack, but bikes sit on two rubber pieces with straps that rap around the bike frame. The Thule also folds out away from the car so I can get access to the rear.
Tom
I don't know if that would work on the Forester due to the height change, but maybe such a thing exists. That way, I don't need a ball hitch for the times I don't want the bike on, and also I can safely remove the bike rack whenever.
To use the hitch with a bike rack, you get a bike rack thing that plugs in to the receiver. There is still no ball, just a steel riser that plug into the receiver, goes back a way, then bends around to come up to where the rack itself hangs. Most (all?) of these are actually hinged as well, so that you can swing them down out of the way in order to open the back of the car, without having to remove them entirely from the hitch.
The relatively low tongue weight of a Class I hitch (200 lbs) limits the number of bikes you are supposed to put on a hitch-mounted rack, usually to two. This is one place those bigger SUVs have an advantage -- they mostly have Class III receivers.
Chris
I have one of those. Mine is made by Rhode Gear. You can use them on almost any vehicle, no matter the height. I put it on the back of my old Plymouth Voyager and carried two bikes from Missouri to New Hamshire and back. The misconception you seem to have is that the top bar must be "over the top" like it is when you put it on the trunk of the car. In the case of an SUV or van, the upper tabs slip into the top edge of the lift gate, and the upper bar (with foam collars of course) rests on the rear windshield. It sounds a little weird pressing that weight against glass, but even on the very large piece on the back of the Voyager it was not problem. It's a little trickier getting it in place, but once you get the straps tightened, it's quite secure. I've also used it on the back of my Legacy Wagon when I was carrying four bikes. (the other two on the roof)
Dave B
Anyway, as of the 5th (of 6) heat I was holding down 2nd in STS. This class allows a fair bit of modifications, but no lightening (i.e. gutting) and maximum 225mm wide street tires. I was beat by the same Saturn SC2 that always beats me-- it's a lighter car but I've got him badly in traction and power, but the real difference is the driver. I'm getting there though.
DaveZ was mentioning something about Cobb Tuning's new parts. Their cams and heads are going to be ready for sale soon, but it's not cheap. Clearly they are recouping their R&D expense, which is their right, but I'd have to see some compelling dyno gains (which they are dyno testing very soon) and even then the cost versus what I think it's worth isn't looking good.
I've had a number of conversations with Trey and I really respect him, but $650 for reground cams (after you get your $400 core refund) is a bit hard to swallow. The dyno will tell, but I would think the conservative nature of the cams (they're published on the site) to work with the OBDII ecu hurts them. To me it would be smarter to drop $1,000-2,000 on a fully programmable ECU and then get wilder cams.
Maybe I should have been an AMC hotrodder in my former life instead of a Chevy guy. The sticker shock of all these (very) low volume Subaru parts still gets me.
-Colin
PS, my latest modification will be front & rear pairs of solid swaybar links. Stock are some sort of hard plastic, which deflects before the bar starts to twist. This gives a strange handling sensation and I'll report on the performance and NVH change when I get them in 3-6 weeks.
Back to Paeco: I got their catalog and they offer 2.5L SOHC cams in three different grinds for around $300, but again, I've never known anyone who actually HAD one!
That SC2 driver will fall soon enough, good luck!
dave z
I still have that Rhode Island Gear mountable rack for the trunk, so I'll be bringing it to the bike store this week to have it installed since I lost the manual and can't figure it out.
Then, I'll have to go to Subaru and see if they can take the roof rack back - they must - even if to prove my bike can't fit on it.
I still have that Rhode Island Gear mountable rack for the trunk, so I'll be bringing it to the bike store this week to have it installed since I lost the manual and can't figure it out.
Then, I'll have to go to Subaru and see if they can take the roof rack back - they must - even if to prove my bike can't fit on it.
Yakima roof rack, but no go. I think my bike is
just too big for the rack; is that possible? I have a 2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara.<<
I'm not sure what a Gary Fisher Tassajara looks like, but I can tell you that some bikes will not attach to the rack you get from Subaru. The people at Yakima, who manufactures the rack, told me it wouldn't work with my bike. It's mostly a case of an aero down tube that the clamp thingy can't get around securely. However I was able to get a different type of Yakima rack called the Ankle Biter that works with virtually any bike by attaching to the crank instead of the down tube.
I was going to suggest checking your owners manual to see how to install the strap on rack, but since you don't have it, yeah, the folks at a bike shop will know how. If I had more time I'd throw mine on the back of my wagon and take a picture of it, but it's getting late. Maybe tomorrow if I have time. Good luck.
Dave B
-john
John: I've seen those, but never heard of a specially-ordered one. Are they cheap?
guxx: I can relate. My bikes are heavy with all my accessories, so lifting them is a pain (literally). You can probably sell the bike rack in the i Club classifieds.
The Rhode Gear rack is likely much better than my Allen rack, which is junk.
If you do get the hitch mounted rack, I've been pleased. It's easy to remove, just one bolt.
Since you asked, the hitch itself is tucked away nicely and does not even affect the angle of departure. You add the hitch receiver and it sticks out almost a foot or so (as the shin I banged into it this weekend proves).
I bought a hitch ball this weekend, too, since RSHolland came by with his trailer. I got a 2" ball, with a 3/4" bolt (that's the size of the hole in the Subaru OE hitch receiver).
I'll share photos later.
Colin: how much for the solid sway bar links? I was under the rear and noticed the Forester has rubber (!) links that I'm sure cancel much of the benefit of having a sway bar in the first place.
If you could, take photos, so I can determine if they are the same as mine. The track is wider on the Forester, so I'm not sure.
-juice
I'm getting the links for $50 each pair, which is a lot less than locals sell them for. At least two people have machined their own but I think the Whiteline links are fine-- even if they are a simple rolled coil of steel. (The machined ones are aluminum.)
-Colin
People have been recommending a fatter rear sway bar, but with those rubber links it wouldn't make a difference.
-juice
-Colin
The hitch bike rack is just under $156 but requires that you have a hitch, of course. It clamps on to the top bar in the frame, but has rubber to protect the finish. The bike does not touch the car.
-juice
I finally had PIAA 1000 series driving lights installed on my wifes OB at Showcase Custom Automotive (south of St. Louis). If my stupid scanner worked there would be a picture here. For now just imagine them mounted under the bumper next to the licence plate where there is an narrow wide cavity (they are recessed into the cavity). I selected PIAAs over the CATZ MSX because they cost less. The CATZ may actually fit better but I'm not sure.
The REASON:
I really did not like the low beam performance on the 2k OB so this was primarily done to try and combat what I(and my wife) considered poor visibility at night. In particular, she was unhappy with the low beam performance in the driving through poorly lit sections of town where high beams could not be used because of traffic.
The GOOD:
The difference, in one word.....WOW!!!!!! It's like someone turned on the sun!!!! You can blow out peoples rentinas if thats your thing. Currently, I have them aimed very conservatively but I am still messing with the angle. I do not want to upset other drivers so I am aiming them very carefully. They are extremely bright and would blind traffic if not properly aimed. I dont by into all the PIAA 55w=85w and Super White stuff but I have to say the the lamps are really impressive regardless of what one believes or not. The construction is also first rate when compared to the other makes of lamps I looked at (other than CATZ). They are very bright and they are also produce light that is extremely white. I could care less about the really white light. If they had a yellow tint like normal halogen lamps I would not have cared. I did not get the weird blue ones, just the clear ones.
I dont have them wired hot so they turn off with the car so basically there is no way to leave them on. There is also a switch (comes with the kit) in the car to turn them on and off so I choose when and if to use them. You can also have them wired to automatically come on and off with the low beams. The total time for the job was under 2 hours. Enough time to eat at Red Lobster, dessert at Dairy Queen, then read the sports section of the paper.
The BAD:
The lamps dont fit exactly flush (I knew they would not). They stick out a couple of cm beyond the bumper. If this bothers you then you may want to go with the CATZ or other brand. You can mount PIAA flush if you 1) dont want to have any play in aiming them or 2) want to cut the bumper behind the lamp. I did not want the bumper cut and I need to aim them low so mine stick out.
Its more difficult to aim them properly then I thought. It takes lots of fiddling. I'm basically using a wall to aim them and then asking friends if they are offensive at I drive toward their cars. I'm eventually going keep them at the point where most(all???) dont mind.
The cost was approx. $320 including the lamps, installation, and tax. It can be done for less (about $25-35) but the guys as Showcase seemed the most willing to listen, seemed very competent, and gave me a price in writing. The cost of what I had done was a little more because I had some special wiring done (nothing big). If you do it yourself it then you can knock about $100 bucks off the price.
A plug for Showcase:
They just opened a web page in case anyone wants to contact them or need specific information. I am not affiliated with them in any way at all. I was just happy with the work they did so I thought I would throw them a plug on this board. Their focus is slamming and lifting trucks/cars but they also so exhaust, tinting, and other performance/paint/show aftermarket work.
http://www.showcaseauto.com/
In summary:
The performance difference is truly AMAZING and totally worth the extra cash.
If someone wants a picture of my wifes 2k OB with the PIAAs to scan and put on their web site I can s-mail you a picture. I can be reached at sudhir2@genetics.wustl.edu
Later
I currently use a Yakima Steelhead bike rack with my Forester. Here are some photos of it:
http://ken.s.homepage.com/bikerack.html
Why the Steelhead? I found it to provide the most secure hold on your bike and it accepts a wider range of bikes compared to the Lockjaw (same as Subaru OE bike rack).
The downside of the Steelhead is that it can only mount to a Yakima crossbar and you need to remove the front tire.
I believe I purchased everything (2 racks, crossbar, cross towers, adapters) for about $350-400.
Let me know if you need any more info.
Ken
There was a sweet looking intake for the '98 Phase I engine (i.e. same as mine), with a partition to keep engine heat out. The tubing was labeled "Rallispec" but I think it's another name. Photos coming soon.
Took some photos of an exhaust, too, but I couldn't really get the underside.
The same RS had the twin spoiler from the STi - looked sweet. He had STi fog light covers, decals, all done tastefully.
No forced induction. Shucks.
Lots of home-made mods. Insulated tubing for cold air intakes. You guys MUST attend a similar event in your region.
-juice
- Amsoil air filter installation
- Xenon bulb installation and comparison
- Bike racks
- Window tints
Check out my website at:
http://ken.s.homepage.com/
Let me know what you think. I'll keep working on it.