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Comments
sounds cool, A.J. Wish I could make gettysburg and have alook-see.
I put up about a dozen new pages, check it out!
I installed the fender flares, and personally I love them. The driver side rear door had a ding and it covered it, plus it serves to prevent future door dings on the rear doors. My wheels' offset was such that the rims stuck out a bit, so it's purposeful too.
Check out the air filter swap, and the two cold air intake pages, those are my favorite. Much thanks go to Ramon and Colin for the tips and the encouragement.
I redid the horn I had gotten, and guess why? Remember I didn't notice much change? There was NO change, there are two horns and I swapped the wrong one! DOH!
The one behind the grille must be for the alarm, even though I don't have it! The actual horn is behind the passenger side head light.
Now it does sound noticeably deeper, thankfully. Before I did not recommend it, but now I do, just make sure you don't goof like I did.
Thanks to Ken, I also swapped to Hella xenons, and you can see the difference in my photo. I took a picture against a wall, and yes, it's both brighter and slightly whiter.
I also did the full 30k service and took photos, but if you're reading this topic you probably already know how to do all that anyway, so I'll save that discussion for the Maintenance topic.
Commentary?
-juice
PS The whine persists. I'll reset the ECU, then try the battery. Will the keyless still work? I don't have the alarm. I'll also try to hear where it's coming from.
Hey, I always wonder the realiabiltiy of those jacks you use. I have one at home and I dare not crawl underneath the car with it. Do you think those stuff works?
NE ways congrats on taking out that hideous snorkus! It's so...evil looking eh?
I took Monday off, so it was about two days' worth of work (Sat and Mon). Plus half day putting it up on the web on Tuesday!
The floor jack is great. I've had it for a decade and it's been perfectly reliable. I also got ramps, though, to do the hitch, and now for oil. Ramps are easier and perhaps safer but the jack is more versatile.
What do you think is causing the high-pitched whining noise?
-juice
Have you tried to localize the problem by leaving the engine running while parked in your driveway and moving around the car? (I'd start under the hood.)
-Colin
I'll try the fuse reset, and the battery, and try to trace the noise.
-juice
Great work! Wow, a DIY 30K maintenance and a dozen pages to document it. You da man!
I liked your cold-air intake pages. I'm going to try that very soon myself. That "evil-looking snorkus" comment cracked me up. Sure does look evil -- kind of like a big tumor you pulled out from the Forester.
Actually, the horn for the alarm (at least in my vehicle) is located just next to the air filter box. If you go to my webpage and check out the Amsoil air filter, it's just above the "B" on the first picture. Wonder what that other horn-thing does...
Glad you liked the Xenons. I think it's a great mod. Have you tried driving at night yet?
I'd love to see how your vehicle looks from the side with the fender flares. Any photos like that?
Finally, can you describe the whining noise a little more? Is it coming from a general area? Any changes with RPM or speed?
A couple questions on the cold air intake:
- Did you need to remove the front right tire in order to get the snorkus out?
- Quite a few people complained about the plastic tabs you need to remove in order to get behind the fender. Were these the two tabs you describe?
Ken
I'm just brain storming, and I think the humming could be the horn. What else would have such a high pitch? I'll check tonight.
I'm confused now, do you have 3 horns? Check behind your grille, and behind the passenger head light. I had two round metal-type horns in those places. What is the mystery horn behind the grille for, then?
Have not driven at night yet. Should be sweet.
Kill the snorkus tips: I pulled it out from the bottom, and did not have to open up the wheel well or remove the tire. I did have it up on ramps, though.
I had the main bottom cover off, and removed the two plugs (yes, the ones everyone complains about) for the side cover and just pried it back. Ramon was right, they were damaged, but still usable, but I'll probably order new ones from Darlene.
I was then able to reach up and mingle it around. I believe there is one bolt in that well that is tricky to reach, so have a flashlight handy.
I managed, though the side cover tore slightly. It really does not matter - that's where it's sucking air from, so the bigger the hole the better! You don't notice anyway, even if you look.
Let me know if you want the original, unshrunk and non-cropped photos.
-juice
My "S" has been promised for next week, we shall see! I don't want to spend too much time in my folk's spare car (a 1977 Caprice wagon!)
Anyway, along the lines of better lighting. I replaced the backup lights in my Volvo 240 with halogens, great in dark driveways. Would anyone know which manufacturer/bulb would be suitable for the Forester as a brighter replacement?
Juice-Nice job on your site!
Popped open the hood and looked around for horns. There are three in my Forester:
- Behind the grille just to the left of the driver's light (this is the one you orginally replaced)
- Behind the passenger side headlight in the engine compartment (the one you recently switched to)
- The alarm siren located just behind the airbox
Anyone want to take a stab as to why there are two horns in two different places?
I knew it! So I have two horns, you actually have 3 in your alarm-equipped S. I still have no idea what the one behind the grille does. It made no difference when I disconnected it.
-juice
PS The high pitched humming seems to be coming from the intake. Probably a loose air filter? I'll remove and replace it tomorrow, since I'm off again.
..Mike
..Mike
I'm also polishing my writing skills, and my problem-solving abilities.
Now I hear TWO high-pitched whining sounds...
:b
-juice
..Mike
..Mike
I'll get you back September 10-16 though. OBX bay-bee!
Though I'll mist the Mid-Atlantic i Club meet at Bull Run Park. Darn, just the place to show off my new mods!
-juice
I'm curious. You've seen those STI foglamp covers that 2.5 RS folks can get? (They're also on the WRC cars.) Any clue as to whether they're available for the Forester? I've been mulling using these as an option to the grilles if I don't expect to use the fogs for a while.
Thanks,
Ed
Ed -- I think I've seen a photo of a tricked out Forester in Japan with foglight covers. Let me look through my magazines and try and figure out which one it was. Unfortuantely, the Forester's fogs are square so the STi ones probably won't fit.
Good point about being in reverse for short periods, Ken, never thought about that!
-juice
Keep me posted...
Thanks,
Ed
Going for 50 percent Madico Autolux tint on driver's and passenger side windows Monday. Its risky but light enough and offset by the 20 percent tint on the rear that I think I will be okay... this is in prep for my 2 month 7k road trip stating 9/6.
Bit
-juice
Anyway we travel mostly 2 lane, camp or stay in the older small hotels like the Wig Wam on rte 66 in Holbrook Arizona. I will try and get on line once and a while and post updates to our trip. The GT has 1100 miles on it now and will be over 8k when we return.
Bit
Try to take some interesting photos to share.
-juice
That would seem to defeat the purpose of covering the fogs up completely when not in use. The safer thing to do (from a standpoint of preventing damage to the lens) would be to get hold of some of that clear adhesive or cling-on film and cut it to shape over the lenses. Ditto for the headlight lenses. Probably a lot cheaper, definitely a lot easier, and less of a poseur statement.
Thanks for the info,
Ed
Drew
Thanks!
Patti
Thanks!
I personally don't like the "bras", or front-end covers, as Subaru calls them, but they are available relatively cheap.
Then there are also the front mounted bug deflectors. They're black plastic and much more pleasing to my eyes. They mount with two self-tapping screws and some clips. I saw Garry's this weekend at the SCOA meet in Gettysburg.
It'd probably be OK to leave both on if you're hand washing.
-juice
I had to remove the foam insulation, since it was nearly sucked into the air box! To make sure the air comes from the fender well, I then sawed off a small part of the "evil snorkus", just an elbow to ensure the air is not sucked in from the engine bay.
The kept the part with the bolt, so it bolted on nicely and looks more stock than before. I have photos to share but they'll probably only be up and running tomorrow. It quieted the humming slightly, too.
I'll share details with the photos.
-juice
thanks for your help!
bcant
In my opinion, it's best to keep your front unprotected because of the added trouble of maintaining the protection.
Front end masks may protect your hood from stone chips but they can also hurt your paint finish. Unless you're very careful, the masks can trap moisture which can do more damage to the paint below. You probably would need to remove it every time it gets wet and then clean the front end of your vehicle before you put it back on.
The deflector is good, but as juice mentioned, it physcially "clips" on to your hood. I bought one long ago but I found it to get in the way of washing and it also caused my side mirrors to vibrate at speeds over 80mph. Also, I noticed that the clips actually left light scuff marks on my hood probably from me taking it on and off every time I washed my Forester.
Another option is to go for those clear strips that are custom shaped for your vehicle. They're pricey but it probably will have the least damage to your vehicle.
As for myself, I've just accepted the fact that chips are part of the ownership experience. Like juice, I keep a good coat of wax on my hood and I keep plenty of distance behind trucks.
Ken
Also, the deflector doesn't have to be smoke tinted. One can easily get it painted to match the body colour for minimal cost (I've seen tons of these in the US, but strangely very few in Canada). When painted, they're not even really noticable from far.
Drew
Then again, the buckle might not fit through. Take your seat to a model at the dealer that has one and try it out.
-juice
The intake fine-tuning was pretty creative. My "foam" seal was a bad idea - it sucked, literally, into the air box.
Check out the Gettysburg page to see Justin's fuel computer, a cool gadget.
-juice
How does the top end of the snorkus fit into the airbox? I was wondering if a little rubber/PVC tubing might be able to do the same trick. I'm just thinking of how I could preserve the snorkus just in case I wanted to reverse the modification.
Do you remember the diameter of the snorkus outlet?
Ken
A-ha, that's why my web site warns of the point of no return. My snorkus is trash indeed.
Though with the plastic plug from the 2000 RS, it'll look completely stock. I doubt even a dealer would notice.
The diameter is about 2" or so. I didn't measure, but you can actually see the mouth of it if you pop the hood.
-juice
BTW, I believe the part to cover up the hole in the engine compartment after removing the air intake is:
46059FA000
I found it on the I-club forums.
Ken
-Colin
Use this site:
http://powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi/
235/55R16 is actually a better match. The diameter is virtually identical to stock.
225/55R16 is a little shorter, so you'd lose ground clearance, but that may be a desired effect. You also get higher gearing.
I doubt either one would rub. The new wheels' offset would likely be 40mm or less, since stock is 55mm I believe.
Mine are 225/60R16s, and they're taller than either of the ones mentioned above.
-juice
Darlene is going to be busy today.
-juice
Again, if anyone doesn't yet know about QSubaru from juice's posts, they're great to deal with. Darlene is very helpful and responsive. Very low prices and they include shipping. I'm saving about $40 on the sway bar from the lowest price I could find at other places!
PS:
Colin -- Do you normally need to apply lithium grease or some kind of lube to sway bar bushings?
Ken
If you don't grease the bushing it will bind, resulting in some undesirable handling traits... not to mention noise.
-Colin
Obviously I'm asking because I may hop on the band wagon!
Colin: for the 30k service, what should I be lubing? Door hinges? Suspension bushings? Anything else?
What about manual tranny fluid? Brakes were bled with the recall.
Any other suggestions?
-juice
You got it. Actually, it's probably the easier and more noticeable mod of the two.
BTW, did you resolve the humming noise issue? How's your version 2 intake modification holding up?
Ken
Once I get the plastic cover from Darlene, I'll share more photos.
I still hear a very faint humming, but noone else does. Am I being anal?
I think I'll try to open the bottom of the fender well a little bit, perhaps drill holes into the plastic, so the noise can "escape" some where. So that's two upgrades for 3.0.
Some guys on i Club are trying to talk me into a Kartboy shifter (cheap, at $150 or so), but I want to check if it'll fit and compare prices to Darlene's, since the SPT carries one too.
It's nice to have even minor options that yeild a noticeable difference for under $200. A Rallispec muffler is a hard sell to my CFO (read: wife) since this is the family hauler.
-juice
The '98 linkage is pretty sloppy compared to the '99-up. The STi shifter fixes that, you get a whole new linkage and shorter shift lever. The part number is C1010FA000
-Colin