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My 2006 Ford Mustang GT wont Start....Help

msbeehavensmsbeehavens Member Posts: 4
edited March 2020 in Ford
Ive replaced the fuel pump, cut off switch, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump driver module, fuel rail pressure sensor,, the relay and the fuse. Turns over but wont start.....and kicks no codes. I am at a loss of what to do next Any suggestions?

Answers

  • msbeehavensmsbeehavens Member Posts: 4
    Oh and the gas guage stopped working at the same time
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Have you considered that this may be a grounding issue?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 13,665
    Can you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key? Have you tried to clean the injectors?
    2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 22,644

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • msbeehavensmsbeehavens Member Posts: 4
    Yes the fuel pump turns on. I did think about a ground issue, guess ill clean the fuel injectors next and see what happens
  • msbeehavensmsbeehavens Member Posts: 4
    Found the fuel pump fise blown, put another one in and it blew too
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Check the wiring for the pump to look for worn sheathing. That bundle runs all the way to the tank, so it is possible you have a short somewhere in there before you even get to the pump. If you already verified that the pump works, then hopefully there's no need to dig into the tank.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745

    Yes the fuel pump turns on. I did think about a ground issue, guess ill clean the fuel injectors next and see what happens

    Found the fuel pump fise blown, put another one in and it blew too

    So the pump actually doesn't run. Did the fuse blow instantly when you plugged it in or did it blow after you turned the key on? I suspect the latter so I will will write this from that perspective. Adjust this if required.

    To try locate where the "short" is in the circuit is you can rely on just trying to look for wiring damage and you might find it or you can use a strategy like this:

    Take a sealed beam headlight and make jumper wires to conect it to the fuse block in place of the fuse. Once connected turn the key on and now instead of a fuse that will fail from too much current flowing the headlight will limit the current and the short is just a switch that is turning the light on. Now you can follow the harness, wiggling it and/or unplugging connectors if available (such as the inertia switch) to see if the the failure is before or after a given area. For example, if the light goes out when you unplug the inertia switch then the problem is towards the tank. Remember that the engine control module controls the relay to put power to the fuel pump and it needs to see engine RPM to keep the relay turned on. You might have to command the relay on yourself or jumper that connection with the headlight instead of the fuse to power the circuit the entire time.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745

    Try this:

    That's a classic failure that we use in our DSO (digital storage oscilloscope) classes. We used it to help teach techs how a scope works as well as how Ford's PIP and SPOUT circuits worked at the same time.

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