1998 Ford Windstar minivan 3.8L drives for 20 minutes from cold then stalls.
fordwindstar98
Member Posts: 4
1998 Ford Windstar minivan 3.8L drives for 20 minutes from cold then stalls. Wait 20 minutes for 5 minutes of drive time, then starts pinging w/power loss increasing.
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Hi! Just bought used 1998 Ford Windstar minivan 3.8L 200k miles, check engine showed 4 weaks later, CAM alignment sensor, diag showed CAM alignment synchronizer, paid mechanic to replace. Pulled out of garage and stuck pedal to metal 4500 RPM. Turned around drove quarter mile sputtered to stop. Stalling loss of power, back to garage, brownish oil high on dipstick, mechanic ordered/installed Blue Devil head gasket sealer. Sat overnight. Engine will run from cold about 15 minutes then stalls out, sputters, hard to start. After 20 min cool down will run for 5 minutes. Drove 60 miles like this! Paid for oil change, tech said "intake manifold/valve cover gaskets appear to be leaking". $125/hour diagnose no time estimate.. internet is free how 'bout it?
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Hi! Just bought used 1998 Ford Windstar minivan 3.8L 200k miles, check engine showed 4 weaks later, CAM alignment sensor, diag showed CAM alignment synchronizer, paid mechanic to replace. Pulled out of garage and stuck pedal to metal 4500 RPM. Turned around drove quarter mile sputtered to stop. Stalling loss of power, back to garage, brownish oil high on dipstick, mechanic ordered/installed Blue Devil head gasket sealer. Sat overnight. Engine will run from cold about 15 minutes then stalls out, sputters, hard to start. After 20 min cool down will run for 5 minutes. Drove 60 miles like this! Paid for oil change, tech said "intake manifold/valve cover gaskets appear to be leaking". $125/hour diagnose no time estimate.. internet is free how 'bout it?
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xwesx
Member Posts: 17,502
The harmonic stabilizer is very important for inline and 'V' engines , as it offsets the weight on the other side of the crankshaft. Without it, or with an issue there, that vibration will potentially cause heavy wear on the internal moving parts.
To be perfectly honest, you might be better off just replacing the long block on this one. It's hard for me to say what is going on there, but if the issues compound as the engine warms (and metal parts expand), it may be reaching the point of being headed to "grenade mode..." just waiting to find a time and place to detonate!
Unless you want to really tear into this to find out what, exactly, is going on, I cannot see it being worth the time and effort.2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 1005 -
xwesx
Member Posts: 17,502
Well, good luck to you, whatever may happen down the road!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 1005
Answers
As for the actual running characteristics, I suspect that there are problems with the computer feedback when the car moves into a closed loop situation. When you start the car cold, the engine generally runs from a saved pattern in terms of timing, fuel trim, air trim, etc (this phase is "open loop"). Once it warms to operating temperature, it goes into a "closed loop" where it is receiving feedback from all of the sensors, including oxygen sensors in the exhaust system, mass airflow sensor in the intake, camshaft, crankshaft, and knock sensors. If one or more of these is giving erroneous feedback or no feedback, the car will not run correctly (or, possibly, at all).
With a coolant leak, you are likely getting some that is fouling the exhaust, which will also quickly foul the oxygen sensors. You must address the coolant leak before it makes any sense at all to address any electronics.
Is there some issue with manifold grommets? (saw old post) re:98 windstar
btw, thanks for ideas!!