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Comments
Being a 'techie' engineering type of person. I always like to see REAL measurements that prove (or disprove) the value of any changes.
Being able to MEASURE the 'before' and 'after' is the basis of all engineering disciplines.
My wifes 91 honda pumps out 46 degrees at idle!!, and her low side- system is already insulated from the factory. I can collect inside/outside temp now and post readings.
Maybe someone else could collect the Before-Mod readings.
Stay cool ! Ger - Sr. Electronics Test Engineer.
I see you sign as a Sr. Electronics Test Engineer. I happen to work at one of the worlds premere semiconductor manufacturing sites. We have 100s of Test Engineers at this plant. As I recall livnlrn also works at the same plant. (although I have never met him)
I help write the sofware that collects the data from the testers at ALL of our manufacturing plants worldwide that the Test Engineers use. (Please ref my profile)
Now I see why you like to take measurements too 8-)
On a side note...I hear a slight ping on my 4.7 when I get on the throttle. Not to the floor but somewhere about 3/4 throttle deflection. I seem to remember some posts about this a while ago. was there a remedy to this?
John
You may find this is happening on HOT days with a HOT engine. Using fuel of a low octane will tend to pre-ignite. YOu might want to try using a hi-test fuel for one tankful. Ill bet the problem will be gone.
You may even want to try a fuel-injector cleaner in the gas tank. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can "glow" and cause the fuel to ignite a bit too soon too.
As I said... This is not a big problem if it only happening under load.
i could not find the sticky insulation so i used fiberglass strips,wrapped in tin foil,held together by duct tape and wire.the self adherring pipe insulation was a breeze.
we expect another 90 days hotter than hell so the test is at hand.
once again thanks,
stephen
Note: This was after I had tie-wrapped the adhesive foil I had wrapped on the 'can' near the firewall. The adhesive wrap around the bottom of the cylinder and underneath was hanging off after 1-2 days. #1757 -slr9589 used the duct tape.. I went with the tie wraps. I also tie wrapped the pipe insulation there and at the compressor.. Just preference.
I adjust my temp control knob ~ > 9 -9:30 oclock now.for normal use at that outside temp and, just put it on full to see any temp difference from the mod...
Would love to test this on vacation on fri,,,in ft myers,fla, but went with the airline tickets and rental car instead. The quad will rest for a week as I will too! Going to make up for the lack of beer-per jobs done, fish, and enjoy!! Ger
Bookitty
it turns out that I had placed a male trailer hitch electrical connector into my one on the truck to keep moisture out. what I failed to do was tape the loose wires on the male end.they had managed to touch each other and apparently caused a short or some abberent connection which caused my flasher not to work right. i fixed the wires and all is back to normal.
just thought i'd pass it on .
stephen
Bookitty
hmm working on the beer to labor ratio...
Thanks to everyone here for the valuable information.
Mark
I plan on changing the rear axle fluid this weekend (goin with synthetic) and wondered about the capacity, didn't find it in my owners manual but was told "a little over three qts".
I bought 4 qts. of RED LINE 75W-90 with the friction modifier.
Can anybody with a shop manual confirm the capacity?
I would hate to have the axle cover off and discover the 4 qts. I bought ain't going to do it.
Also any opinions on using a gasket when re-installing the cover or just using a premium gasket sealer.
Thanks in Advance.
Cowtownkid
The capacity of the 9.25 diff on your dakota is 4.9 pints. you will have plenty of fluid. The manual said to fill 1/4 inch below the fill plug, but concensus in this board and the dml said fill it to the bottom of the plug.
Just use the black permatex, and you will be fine. there are other options out there if you don't want to wait the 12 - 24 hours to fully cure, but someone else will have to fill you in on those details.
enjoy.
Blue
John
John
I guess I COULD have done the 5SP and xfer case myself.
I bought all of the REDLINE for $7.25/qt locally and took it all to my favorite mechanic with specific instructions. (This is a better price for REDLINE than I could find anywhere on the web)
He mentiond that the front axle was "a tight spot". I also suspect that for the 5SP and xfer case and front axle, putting the lube IN was the hard part.
Draining the 5SP and xfer case is as easy as pulling the drain plug and giving it time to drain.
I have looked under my Dak and saw that the cover on the front diff was about 2 inches from a frame-member. Since the front axle is solidly bolted to the engine, this clearance never changes. (IFS on the 4X4 starting in 2000)
John
Do not forget that the torque-converter tends to hold some fluid that does not get drained.
There are 'special instrictions' in the shop manual about installing the filter properly. I have seen at least one case on the forums that even a xmission shop did not install it properly.
(this is on the 45RFE on the 4.7L)
QUESTION: What are you using in your xfer case? I used the D4ATF that RED LINE recommended.
John
Bill
Now the surprise.. ruts deeper on the back. towards the hub. Corrosion and caked on dust. I didnt even think twice... new rotors. thoroughly cleaned the hub, and surrounding area.. installed new rotors, Raybestos ceramic pads.. definitely much better.
Also while it was in the "shop" I removed the clamps on the front antisway bars and lithium greased toughly and reassembled.
Took her for a test drive and the brakes were so much better and QUIET! NO chirping or the warped rotor shimmy. No popping in the front during sharp turns either.
Had alot of fun doing the work and very pleased with the results.
Definitely a 6-pk job (the road test was the next day)
Since I have LSD rear end. I selected the REDLINE 75W90. (which contains the LSD additive allready)
This was used in BOTH the front and rear Axle.
I have been running that combonation for 2 months now and still notice the difference.
In hindsight, If you were to read any of the "tests" of the Dakota, they all mention the "weak" brakes.... this problem is GONE once the powerslot/Raybestos are installed.
I had even WORSE luck than you describe. I had to 'grind' the 1/8" of rust from the inside circomfrence of the old rotors to get them to respond to my baby sledge coaxing. Once removed, the 'hub' itself was virtually rust-free.
It took my wifes Honda 8 Vermont winters before the rotors were rusted badly.... and they STILL were not as bad as the Dakota after 3 years.
Seems the "gremlins" have followed me.
A week ago, the vitara was chugging along fine when I stopped to get gas. Given the fact it does not have gauges but "idiot" lights, I never knew the battery wasn't charging but I did notice the turn signals were a tad slow, this I attributed to the cooling fan and the interior fan running at high amp draws (remember this sentence, its significant)
Well I go to start, and it barely turns over but thanks to FI, it caught and ran fine. SO, I figured better get the hell home before something happens.
I never made it. WHile sitting at a stoplight, I started to lose all power to all systems. First the tach went, then the gauges for gas and cooling. Then the engine began coughing and sputtering (now go back and read the paragraph above for a refresher) In the end, she died. Total flatline here.
Well, I check it out and I already knew the alternator wasn't putting out (I know a vehicle can be kept "running" off alternator current ASSUMING it puts out and, you don't shut it off!)
Why wasn't the alternator putting out anything? WEll the main harness to the battery and starter relay had totally melted, I mean to the point there was NO insulation on the wire from the alternator to the starter relay and for about six inches on the splice to the batter terminal itself.
Diagnosis........current overload....melted wires.
WHy did the system overload? Good question!
Results.....I get an Esteem (which does little for MY esteem) to drive while Country motors tries to figure out why the cannot get an alternator from Suzuki. Good news is they have the harness.
Ahhhhh.......hey ahasher......I had a beer tonight to celebrate one week without a new vehicle.....I guess I am pretty familiar with that.
Moral.....well, I guess the Asian cars have their issues too.
put a new tank of brand name regular in the truck today and all appears to be well.no surging,no skips,no anxiety .
so maybe bad gas was the diagnosis after all.
all for now,
ps;my condolences to mopar67 on his vitari meltdown.
welcome to my world LOL....
good luck,
robert
Perhaps this is not the first time they needed one!! (Remember that they only stock hi-usage items at the dealership.)
2. Got it back today. To relate to #1 above, the new harness is MUCH stiffer either due to more insulation or, hopefully, heavier gauge wire.
3. The alterntor is slightly different in appearance than the OEM one which had a Mitsubishi tag on it. This one has a Suzuki tag on it but I cannot decipher the numbers to determine the AMP rating.
4. no conclusion after talking to two techs on why this one went south like it did. Perhaps a fluke like ahashers underhood BBQ????
But its back. Bottom line, if it can happen, then it will. OR did someone else say that?
I believe the 2001 has a button (not on the 2000)to turn the compressor on and off. Is the smell there when the compressor is off? There is a small radiator like device (heater core) inside the air ducts. Since it uses engine coolant to provide heat if you had a small leak in this it would give you the antifreeze odor. Have you checked the antifreeze level under the hood? Time to have the dealer look at your problem, it is not common. Rick
I have a 2001 QC. I'll try to figure it out.
Bookitty
I too had trouble getting powerslot brand rotors so went with a highly recommended make a friend told me of, bought it locally for about the same price.
If you need the part numbers for the pads. I will get them tonight.. good luck
I also mentioned to them when I took the truck in that I was starting to hear a popping sound when I made a right hand turn and they said they fixed that problem which was something to do with hub bearings(?) that they replaced.
I'm not a mechanical genius and I got the phone call during a nap, so that's why I put the (?) by the 2 items.
They don't have a few parts available so I won't see the truck till Friday evening at the earliest they tell me, so I'll give a full final update after I go pick up the truck and talk to them in person and get the work order.
Ford_bii, if you are smelling the same odor on occasion, you might want to look at the tranny, but I hope in your case it's something else.
Thank goodness she's under warranty.
I'll keep ya'll posted.
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner
Add oil system conditioner
Service throttle body assembly
Fuel injector flush
Air filter (done)
Brake inspection
Rear brake service
Other than a brake inspection which I have no problem with, is any of that other stuff really neccessary?
I have an article on maintenance that I printed out from About.com where the writer recomends replacing air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve and filter every 15,000 miles. Obviously I will not have to replace my K&N air filter every 15K but what about fuel filter and PCV valve and filter?
I realise this is a long post and a lot to ask but I L-O-V-E love this truck. I would like to keep it running well.
PS I notice Red Line offers a Manual Transmission Fluid. Was wondering if any of the manual owners out there have or ever intend to change out the man. trans. fluid?