2002 escalade my service engine light is on. Code 107.. Help Please

warpig23warpig23 Van Nuys, CaliforniaMember Posts: 5
edited December 2020 in Cadillac
I have a 2002 escalade my service engine light is on,I checked with code reader and got code 107 absolute manifold low pressure. I looked it up and it means Bad map sensor. So I installed a new map sensor and erased the code. But engine light is still on and 107 code still appears on code reader. I cant seem to figure out what is the problem. The vehicle seems to run good but it has been sitting for a few years. I did change the oil and flushed radiator,changed air filter. I need to get a smog but cant with light on. I thought maybe someone on this site might of had this problem. I would very much appreciate any help/info someone might be able to share with me. Thanks for your time.

Answers

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,465
    warpig23 said:

    I have a 2002 escalade my service engine light is on,I checked with code reader and got code 107 absolute manifold low pressure. I looked it up and it means Bad map sensor.

    This is a common misconception pushed by many marketers of these tools. "P0107" doesn't mean that it is a bad sensor. P0107 means that the engine control module saw the sensor signal voltage go below .1v for more than four seconds. While a sensor failure "could" do that it's far more likely that the voltage to the sensor is going open (bad connection) OR, the signal wire between the sensor and the control module is open (bad connection) or it is grounded. (shorted).

  • warpig23warpig23 Van Nuys, CaliforniaMember Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I have look everywhere for any info on this problem. So I should look for a bad wire/conection around the map sensor.I will go try to see if I can locate the bad connection.I appreciate your help. Hope I can find the problem.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,465
    The only place to "look" is on the car. A report about what was wrong on someone else's car which is what you will find using Google is really meaningless. The only thing that matters is what is wrong with yours and that is found by understanding what the failure means and how to test and prove it. The code is nothing more than the identification number of a test that the computer has run that is failing. Figuring out how to test the same way that the computer does leads you straight to the answer and no guessed parts. The information I gave you is exactly what you need to solve this. All you need is a voltmeter, a scan tool that displays data and the wiring schematic.
  • warpig23warpig23 Van Nuys, CaliforniaMember Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help very much appreciated.I think I fixed it,got light to go off and code reader shows no codes. I look around and checked the wires like you said and noticed one of the wires going to the map sensor connector was busted. So I spliced it back together and seems to work for now. Hopefully I will be able to pass smog. Again thanks for you help.. :)
  • warpig23warpig23 Van Nuys, CaliforniaMember Posts: 5
    Now I have another problem. I took vehicle to smog place they hooked it up and when they were done. They told me I did not pass. They asked me if I changed the battery recently. I told them yes new battery. They said I have to drive the car 150 miles and then bring the vehicle back and try again. Reason being there is no info in the computer. I cant drive the car around for 150 miles with no registration. My tags are 2012. Is there any way to get around this procedure. And I noticed it starting to idle rough now. This really sucks. Just wondered if you had any advice. Thanks
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,465
    You don't need to drive it 150 miles, you only need to complete a drive cycle. Park the vehicle for at least 6 hours. Have the fuel in the tank between 1/4 and 3/4s full. (Empty or Full will block some tests from running) Start the vehicle and let it idle for thirty seconds, then drive the vehicle at speeds up to 45mph for the first five miles with several stops and starts. Then get on a highway and drive for about five miles at normal speeds. Exit the highway and follow this part exactly. You need to be on a road that has you driving about 45mph. Let off the throttle and coast for twenty seconds. Speed back up to 45, mph and coast for another thirty seconds. Repeat that for a third time. Now as quick as you can, pull off the road and come to a stop, in gear and just let the engine idle for two minutes. Now drive back home, and park the car for at least thirty minutes. You should be ready for emissions testing at that point. If the vehicle isn't ready check for pending codes and from there diagnostics concentrating on misfires and fuel trims will be required.
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