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Comments
Let me know if it works for you!
The left and right "eye brows" attach to the center deflector via 1 screw. However, you need to use adhesive tape to keep the far end of the "eye brows" attached to the hood.
I have pictures of the EGR air deflector posted on the web. Click the link below. Good luck!
'00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile: http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/
For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
J
One potential flaw in their argument could certainly be proven if any truck, with a drive train identical to ours, does NOT have this offset rear axle? Should all of those owners then demand a "fix" for their perfectly aligned rear end?!
So, any one with a '01 Quad/ 4.7 /multspd.auto/ tire&hndlng/3.55 anti spin willing to measure to see if they too have this weird geometry?
Your help will not go unnoticed--but probably unrewarded $ :-)
Bookitty
I'm interested to know how you purchased the truck and what it cost to have the truck shipped to the Holy City??? Don't forget to have the truck blessed!!! <:.)
p.s. gookitty, I think was a cartoon character on "Gumby". Bookitty is our esteemed friend, kind of like a Bishop... no, Cardinal,.. to those of us on this forum!!!
After 2 Month waiting - im driving a Dodge.
It is a great Truck and there are not much Dakotas in Austria. After ordering this truck, i am reading allways this Messageboard and there are good tips und information in it. It is a big Site and I hope, i can get any information i need.
My QC Sport had 4,7 Engine, Leer Top, black clearcode, and all Items from the Doge List.
Iám very Happy !!!
I personnally feel that white is rather low maintenance compared to darker colors especially from a distance (I know that my dark green truck shows dirt terribly).
You will find that Bookitty and several others make up a veritable wellspring of pertinant knowledge concerning dodge daks, some of it terse, others saturated with humor (usually dry).
good luck with your truck, It's good to know people in "high" places!
scottie
best of luck, I know you'll like your truck!
drive safely
scottie
I'm trying to decide between a sprayed in liner and the bed rug. If I go with sprayed in I thought of going with Rhino. Is there any "padding" with the Rhino when you're crawling around in there?
The one thing that worries me about the bed rug is I'll be hawling an ATV with a plow in the winter at times, and am afraid the snow, etc may get under it and freeze until spring.
Thanks for any input.
The (large!) package arrived yesterday, I took it home and unpacked everything for a more thorough inspection. Quality of the parts looks very good, though labeling could be a little better. I hope to install it something this week.
Anyway Dave's Tonneau covers were good to deal with and had favourable pricing -- I paid $695 including shipping. You can reach them via http://www.davestonneaucovers.com/
I chose the Roll-n-lock over the pace edwards for two primary reasons:
1) R-n-L offered much more thorough information about the construction of their product, and from that it appeared to be of high quality; and
2) R-n-L has an integrated tailgate lock which appears to be well designed. Adding a lock to the P-E product would have reduced the price difference somewhat and it wouldn't have been as cleanly integrated.
I don't expect either product to be totally waterproof and I made no determination about which of the two gave the impression of better water resistance.
Once the cover is installed I'll report back.
twj
Some posts have 'em; some don't.
Is there a way for us "computer-challenged" folks to flap our flags on these posts????
Personally, I live in the State of Confusion, so I don't know what flag to fly.
GATOR72
I have a white '01 QC SLT+, 4.7L, auto, T&H, 4X2 w/fender flares. I bought the QC bed MAT. It's heavy rubber but slides out easily; (ie. to dry out the water). It fits perfectly.
My 2 cents: I would go with the spray-in liners, bed rugs or rubber bed mats. I would NOT go with a bedliner. Many friends did and found extensive rust after only a year or two. Water gets trapped and can't get out.
GATOR72
To answer your question - the hood deflector requires four holes drilled though the underside of the plastic grill -- not the hood. The eyebrows don't require any drilling.
Good luck with your installation.
heads in Austria. Drive carefully. Let's hear from you.
Bookitty
Made a 600 mile round trip to Lake George NY with a 2500lb trailer, about 900 lbs in the bed and 3 adults. The 4.7 ran well up and down the hills, but the box sagged about 3" from normal ride height.
Mileage with the trailer varied between 10-12 in the mountains and up to 13 on the flats. My milage returning with out the tailer was 16.5-17. That was mostly 70-75mph with a bed full of odd shaped cargo. I'm sure that added to the drag. I have gotten 18.5 with an empty bed on other shorter trips.
I thought those of you debating on the towing axel vs the 3.55 would be interested in reading this. I'd definitely go for the 3.92 if I lived in an area with a lot of hills and planned on towing a lot. For flat land, the 3.55 does great but will downshift a lot on inclines if you are in overdrive. Perhaps the added torque of the 5.2 ie 5.9 would be even better.
One last note for those traveling that return route. Don't miss the turn off for 77 North in Wytheville Va. It makes for a tense situation with the wife when you have to backtrack 65 miles and add 2 hours to an already too long trip. I tried to blame it on the dog but no luck.
2nddak
Problem - '96 GC 3.3L with 94,000 miles. The "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on today. I cycled the key 3 times to see if I get a code, but no luck. Then I noticed that the "SES" light was flashing in a pattern. Does anyone know what the 1-2-2-1-5-5 pattern means???
21 Upstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) ** or
Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency or value does not go above .65 volts. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Neither rich nor lean condition detected from the downstream oxygen sensor. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
55 Completion of fault code display on Check Engine Lamp. (end of codes) *
* Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will not illuminate when this code is stored
** Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will illuminate when this code is stored
*** Generator lamp illuminated
Based on the above I'd guess your oxygen sensor is bad. Rick
THANKS for the info on bug deflectors . . . I understand how the mopar one installs now!!!
I can get mobile one syn. here should I use this or regular oil?
please help
It was nice to see your post. Very informative.
I too, was thinking of building a platform in my QC for my dog on the long trip back home to Indiana (sounds like a song) from here on the east coast.
Could you send me a picture of what you did and any advice on building it. I am sure you had some things that you dicovered when doing that project and I would love you advice if you don't mind.
Thanks
hope this helps
Bookitty
What is the red line for the 4.7L V8. My tachometer has no red line on it.
Mark
Robert H is the forum member that gave me the info. I have the springs tightened down all the way & it lifted the back of the truck about 2". I have not done any heavy towing with the new OL's, other that a aluminum boat but it sure lets my truck ride smoothly.
For my part: I really do like the LP15's
Thanx,
Cowtown Aggie
Climbed underneath to try to verify DC's claim that this is a "design feature" (I agree that they should then be able to EXPLAIN why the offset exists.)
My observations:
Drive shaft takes a slight diagonal path from tranny to differential. Because...
Differential is offset on the axle itself. (Measuring from edge of case to nearest U-bolt, it's 2.25" further over to the right) btw, right side tire is out about .75" further . In the case of our truck though, if diff. was centered, then dshaft would be to close to that nice big gas tank. Really--take a look for yourselves.
Now I'm not an engineer or even a mechanic , but it seems like in a perfect world, all of these components should have symmetrical geometry (line up, be centered, etc. Maybe they expected us to race these trucks in the Super Modified class). A driveshaft that doesn't follow a straight path to rear end seems like it might exert some sideways torque and begin to wear gears. But I could be way off. It might even be a separate issue. Any one with more knowledge in this area please set us straight or provide some reassurance that all is OK. I will ask questions, but please don't wait for me. Call up higher and higher until a satisfactory answer is received!
Thanks to all for noticing this "problem" to begin with and your work so far.
Steve
Also to whoever was asking about freezing Bedrugs...Yes they do trap water on the surface (not underneath) and therefore you get surface ice.
I want the bed to be left open without a cover.
The 2 issues I've been grappling with are: 1) whether to keep the Jet Stage II chip or go with the custom PCM flash from Mike Leach & Co. -- equivalent to the MOPAR PCM upgrade; and/or 2) whether to return the Jet chip and just leave my PCM alone.
I have tested the Stage II chip with 86 octane, 89 octane, 93 octane, and 93 octane plus octane booster. It ran fine with 86 and 89 octane gas, but I noticed the engine ran a little hotter with the lower octane fuel than with 93. But installing a 180 degree thermostat would probably help solve this, which is a mod I plan to do anyway.
At first, I didn't feel the chip added that much to my 5.9L engine. I had just installed my 3" catback system which did add some noticeable torque and hp. So at best, it felt like the chip added maybe another 5 hp to the rear wheels instead of the 18 hp gain claimed by Jet. Now that I've had the chip on for 1 week, taken it off for almost 1 week, and then put it back on running 93 octane + octane booster, I can say that I DO feel the difference. It is not a HUGE difference -- but it does make the truck nicer to drive. It seems to give me just a little more power throughout the power band, especially between 3300 rpm to 5200 rpm where I get a pretty nice torque surge -- sort of feels like a short turbo boost. I'm definitely more willing to pass vehicles on the road and under certain conditions that I maybe would've thought otherwise about before. The engine also feels like it runs smoother/less inhibited.
While I think the Mike Leach PCM flash would be even nicer, I don't plan to street race with my 4x4 so the high rev limiter and speed limiter are not a factor. The sportier auto trans shift points and greater cruise control range would be nice, but is probably not worth the extra $$ and hassle involved with removing the PCM from my truck. Mike Leach & Co. was pretty honest with me and told me that even with their program, the difference wasn't really that dramatic on my 5.9L as it would be on the 4.7L. He also recommended a shift kit for my auto trans since I complained it tends to upshift too early.
So long story short, on issue #1, I've decided to keep the Jet Chip vs the custom PCM flash. As for issue #2, ie. is the difference worth $250+? I've decided it is b/c it does make my QC that much more fun to drive!
'00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile: http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/
For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
I have an '01 QC SLT+, 4.7L, T&H, etc. I have the in-dash CD/cassette player with Infinity speakers and equalizer.
I preparing for to go the dealer for my 1st oil change. I'll ask dealer to check out the CD player then; (along with the popping/creaking noise from the right front when braking).
I would appreciate any feedback that anyone can offer.
THANKS,
GATOR72
Thanks for the info. I updated my profile, but, still no flag. Maybe it takes a while to work?
Why is Texas is NOT listed in there? (My original home). I heard somewhere that the Republic of Texas joined the Union, but, thought it was just a rumor.
Thanks Again,
GATOR72
In reality, most of the problems are minor. Some are just a matter of perspective. I commend Edmund's for hosting this website to give us owners a place to compare notes; and gripes!
I've been buying NEW vehicles since the early 70's. Been driving since the mid-60's. In spite of what the old folks tell you, ALL vehicles are made better TODAY than they used to be; they last much longer, too!
My 2001 Dakota QC SLT+, 4.7L is one of the best I've ever owned. Having said that - NO vehicle is perfect. Some are better than others. I've had good Toyotas and bad Toyotas; good Chevys and bad Chevys, etc. All things being equal, the Dodge Dakota is a solid, well-built vehicle. Based on the time I've owned it, I believe it will give good service well into the foreseeable future.
GATOR72
Regarding pride, Amen to your post.
Bookitty
Good to know for the next time I put my foot in it.
It is wierd that the tach has no indication on it. Usually there is a yellow, then a red zone or a similar indication.
Do the 2000 models have any such markings on the tachometer?
Gator72: They forgot to tell you that Bill pardon Santa Ana and gave Texas back to Mexico on his last day in office. The idea is that a foreign national cannot hold office and Al gets it by default. He also gave the Florida courts jurisdiction in the matter. That is why it is taking so long to resolve. Of course, anyone who has traveled I-10 will tell you that Mexico is already in charge of the southern half of the state. When the fast food is called El McDonald's or Senorita Wendy's, you start looking out for the Federales.
I'll go along with what you remember about drive shafts, but I guess the main issue is with the geometry of all four wheels. If back set of wheels, on their axle, don't line up with front, this causes a "crab walk" down the highway. It can't be right.
When the NASCAR boys tap the wall hard with either the front or the rear you see them in the pits with a string(or some thing similar) pulled tight between the two. They are certainly checking for something that is more than just an annoyance, ie., mechanical.
Now, I'm really just continuing to throw this out there for discussion, because I feel there are some knowledgeable mechanic types who are willing to help explain the basics to us dummies. I'd probably let it go(on this board)if mine was the only truck affected. Otherwise I'm very proud of my Quad-it's a beauty. Thanks everyone--Town On!
I take this as the 4.7 "Red-Lining" @ 5500RPM, as i have never wanted to push a motor into this "red-Zone"....I have been know to get all in the yellow, but NOT the red...This does take some self control on the drivers part because this is such a sweet reving engine...especially in the upper RPM band...
Chad
Greensboro, NC
'01 might not have colored tach, but it does have 7000. Cool.