Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

sunburn · October 2001

To get door moldings for a QC from Dodge, the price is a bit steep, $160-$200, depending on where you go. I found moldings from Trim-Gard, which are pre-cut, 1 3/8" wide, with tapered ends. You can go to www.auto-extra.com to order them. They aren't listed in their online catalog, but they can get them. The price is $52 + $10 shipping. Much more reasonable.

davewarwick1 · October 2001

I now have 7k miles on my 4.7, 3.55, all bells/whistles DDQC. Cannot find the appropriate manner to have the auto trans shift smoothly. Seems like during hard accel it works best. Early morning (not quite awake) takeoff with steady throttle or slight accel and it is rough "klunky". Even when warm it fairs not much better. Before I go back to the dealer, I wanted some opinions.

Also, first time drive (or after the truck has sat for some time) of the day yields an actuator type noise (best way I can describe it) from under the floorboard. It is usually heard just before the door locks lock but varying the takeoff speed can change the time when it is heard. Again dealer was no help so I am looking for yours.

The dealer also verified the 24 gallon tank but to this date, I have not put in more than 19 gallons even though the guage is flashing. 15.4 MPG is max to date.

dodgetrukn · October 2001

I have the supposedly 24 gal tank also, and always seem to put in 18-19 gallons after my low fuel light comes on..Once drove 20 miles after the light came on, pulled into gas station and
truck stalled..NEVER has it stalled ever.Filled up with 19 gals.I thought I don't have 24 gal tank. I gotta check into that!! Otherwise no problems ~ 7k miles now..Love that iat adjuster.saving my pennies for a cold air intake, then exhaust! Ger

mopar67 · October 2001

ahhhhh, well.
Seems I am not the only one with a grouchy 45RFE.
Thanks for your post. I felt like one legged man at an *** kicking contest here. Seems everyone else thinks I am full of it when I complain about the tranny.
ANy old how, all I can offer is good luck. I have bitched, complained, reasoned, argued, discussed, and just plain yelled to no avail. Last time it was in (for brakes but thats another matter) the smart [non-permissible content removed] tech stated on work order "transmission functioning as designed" I plan to keep that piece of paper and make the snot nose moron eat those words when (not IF but WHEN) the tranny goes out. WIsh I could offer more. The only thing I am certain of is the fact that Chrysler went so far backwards with this design, it will take them years to get back to where they were on transmissions where once they were challenged by none, envied by all.
Good luck.

sunburn · October 2001

Went to see my new QC today. In the course of finalizing the financing, I got the extended warranty sales pitch. I've never purchased one before with any of my previous new vehicles, but they all been imported vehicles. Given some of the posts I've read in this and other forums it may be good insurance to get a service contract that extends out to 6 years or 60K miles. The DC 6/60 contracts are $750(powertrain and A/C only)-$990(powertrain, A/C, suspension, cooling, fuel, electrical, and brakes). Third party prices I've found on the internet can be up to about $200 less than DC's, but it is hard to find any information about the reputations of some of these companies. Does anyone have any thoughts on DaimlerChrysler service contracts or service contracts provided by third parties. Any inputs would be appreciated.

bookitty · October 2001

Todd, sometimes you can negotiate with the dealer for an extended warranty. There is a great deal of mark up involved, and the dealer has considerable latitude. I worked out a 7 year 75K maximum care with a $100.00 deductible for $600.00
and by showing it to another dealer got the same deal for my wife's vehicle (different brand). These policies, are nothing but underwritten insurance policies, and there are third party names like GE who do this. Shop around and don't be afraid to tell your dealer that you are looking for the very best deal. Good luck.

Bookitty

davewarwick1 · October 2001

Thanks for the replies on the tranny and gas tank situation. The rough transmission shift bothers me. I have spent the majority of the time with the trans in OD and by going to the "regular" mode, the trans is smoother but not what it should be.

As for the gas tank. When the light comes on, guess i can go ~ 100 miles before I call the wife and tell her to bring the gas can. Maybe the dealer can "tune" the electronics. I really hate to drive when the gas light is on even though I can go quite a distance before empty. Unfortunately, there is nothing more satisfying knowing you ran it dry (not quite), and got full use of the tank.

tuvtest · October 2001

I believe the light is set to go on at 1/8 tank remaining. I have personally put 24.29 gal in on a fill up.

bookitty · October 2001

Harold, you must love "pushing the envelope." I usually wimp out when the light and chime call attention. Too much Air Force in me.

Bookitty

ferous · October 2001

Boo, I think age might have something to do with how close you get to E. With driving 500 miles a week, I'm comfortable with filling up just as the needle is about to hit E. I have never put more than 23.1 gallons in, and I average 21 gallons on my fill ups. With my 2wd getting 22 MPG and driving ~500 miles a week. I fill up every Thursday morning. I have driven 523 miles on 1 tank.

ferous · October 2001

I filled up my truck for 99 cents a gallon last week. Wow, 7 weeks after gas hit $4 plus (9/11) I never thought I would be paying only 99 cents.

bookitty · October 2001

Thad, I do 20 and 21 gallon fills, but 24.29 is testy. Gasoline in New Jersey is as low as $97.9. At least that is the lowest I have seen. And for all that, an attendant fills your truck (no self service except for diesel fuel).

Bookitty

tuvtest · October 2001

Yah, I know, I was dangerously close to walking on that one.. Circumstances and my desire to only use "good gas" had me push it that far. Most of the time I also fill it between 20-22 gal.

An attendant????you mean the guy actually comes out of his little bulletproof cubbyhole?...I do remember hearing legands of such things when I was a child. Suburban Chicago prices are running about $1.25 for name brand gas

bookitty · October 2001

Harold, we live in PA just about on the line separating PA and NJ. Our beach house is in NJ, so we usually fill up on the way home on Sunday evening. NJ has a law prohibiting customers from dispensing fuel. Thus, the stations are manned. In addition, the prices are $.25 or more lower per gallon in NJ. Everyone in this area who travels through NJ for whatever reason fills up there. Saving money while someone fills your car or truck is not too bad.

Bookitty

wcoleman1 · October 2001

I have a 2001 Quad Cab with 21,000 miles on it. I have had extensive problems with the front end suspension. It squeaks like a 10 year old truck when going over even the smallest of bumps. I drive the truck about 30% on dirt roads/70% on pavement in Vermont. I have also had to replace the ball joints once and the front end still does not seem as tight as it was when new. The dealer has been lubing the suspension at oil changes, but this only temporarily solves the squeaking problem. The squeaks come back very quickly. The dealer has replaced the rear shackle bushings and will probably replace the front sway bar bushings this next oil change. Has anyone else had problems with their suspension?? Noises?? I really love everything about this truck, but the suspension should not be this problematic to maintain. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. --WTC

slickwilliedj · October 2001

i purchased my ext warrt through WARRANTY GOLD.COM I bought the 7/70 diamond policy with 0 deduct for around $1100.00. this policy mirriors the factory warranty and also allows for towing and car rental.u might want to ck them out. i found that dc's ext warrt were over priced and didnot cover as many components.

slickwilliedj · October 2001

i have a 01/qc 4x2 with 9000k. since new I have had a popping/snapping noise from the front end while turning and braking. truck has been into dealer numerous times but they can find nothing wrong and the noise is sometimes difficult to repeat as you go around the same turn twice and do everything the same and truck won't dup the noise as it did the first time. you might want to consider the lemon law in your area

themacguy · October 2001

hey all, got up this morning, logged on to AOL, and what did i see on the welcome screen? a shiny new dodge dakota quad cab over the caption "30 most wanted cars" issued by Edmunds! made me happy as a proud new papa. seems they really like this little sucker, and i'm sure the comments by bookitty and others might've had something to do with it...

auto tranny on my 4.7 - sorry there's some of us having trouble with this tranny. for the life of me i can't imagine why yall's aren't as good as mine. i have over 60k of some really 'vicious' use / abuse on mine, and it's never grumbly at all. smooth as silk. i changed my fluid at 30k to synthetic, and once since then. but that's it. i use the truck about 2/3 on pavement and 1/3 on caliche - with towing duties of about 25% of total miles to date, with loads of 1500# - 5500# (well over the max. recommended for my 2wd/3.55 ratio truck. i've also auto-x the truck some... only difference in mine MAY be that i don't have a lsd?

mpg - i use the lowest grade of chevron out here in W. TX. (87 oct.) and i get 15 - 20 mpg. 21 mpg on night trips at 65 mph. 22-24 mpg in the Colo. mtns. at ave. speeds of about 40-50 mph. this 4.7's mileage is REAL sensitive to rpm's. on my usual jaunts into midland, tx. i'll 'sort of' get frisky with other truck drivers, and my mpg will drop noticeably, if you know what i mean, and i think you do. ;-)

fuel tank - i routinely fill mine up at 22 gal. or more, once at 23.991 gallons (remembered that one cause i couldn't believe it and wrote it down!) - truck wasn't stumbling, so maybe it'd gone a few more miles and would've been over 24 at the fill. i always fill the filler tube up as well, so maybe there's a few tenths there. W. TX. gas stations can be 100's of mile's apart.

sorry everyone's experience with this truck hasn't been as great as mine. it's never ONCE been in the shop for anything. maybe it's blessed. i picked it up on Christmas Eve 1999. :-)

dagobran · October 2001

I was just logging on tonight to ask about the "actuator noise" you described. I have a 2000 QC 4.7/Auto Full-time 4WD. I have the door locks turned off and hear a click and buzz between 12-15 mph the first time I go through that speed after starting the truck. On my test drive with the service manager I made it happen every time I stopped and restarted the engine and accelerated past 15 mph. Last week the dealer said it was the 4-wheel ABS doing its system check and is normal. Are other people hearing this sound? Folks with the BOB, does it refer to the ABS system check?
Thanks, Dave

quaddub · October 2001

My guess is the rolling door locks, eventhough "turned off" at the CTM, still allow the power lock motor to operate without actually locking doors. I hear this noise at the exact same speed point(15mph) as before locks were disabled. (Dealer used scan tool to reprogram CTM)

The ABS self test occurs when ignition switch is turned to Run position (NOT at 15mph). A controller breifly cycles the pump and solenoids to check operation (this is audible).
Same controller monitors wheel speed continuously when truck is in motion. Another dealer half- truth.
G'day

zonk · October 2001

Have you had any brake problems? Rotor warpage, inordinate pad wear, brake squeal - those types of things? I don't seem to remember anything from you about this subject. By the way, my '01, 4.7L, auto, 2wd Sport+ has a very smooth transmission, too (knock on wood!). Only problems have been the brake squeal (twice in the shop for that).

zonk · October 2001

themacguy - I just saw your brake experience on another thread. I even remember you posting that many moons ago.

phishcranium · October 2001

I just bought the 02 Dakota Quad. 4.7l/Auto/LSD.
Does anybody notice when you come to a a stop and move from Drive to Neutral you get a "thunk" and the vehicle motions backwards. The subsequent shift from Neutral to Park doesn't seem to be bad. Also, moving from Park to drive there doesn't seem to be problems. Wondering if others are experiencing this. Thanks.

stnick · October 2001

Todd, Been off here a few days, so hopefully this will still do you some good. I was offered DC warr through mail after I bought my truck . $790.00 for 100.00 deduct 5/60,000. Dealer was 850.00 to 950.00. On this forum was posted a dealer in DeMoines,Ia. Web address is www.chryslerwarranty.com . I bought Mine from them. 6/60,000 50 deduct Chrysler warrany for $685.00. They may have gone up some as this was 10 or so months ago. They were nice to deal with. Nick

themacguy · November 2001

ALL that i remember, due to my absence, is the 'many moons ago' stuff!

hey, is a_j still around, or do i need to check the obituaries up in the 'great white north' (again) for him. ;-)

zonk · November 2001

I haven't seen anything from him in a long, long time. Maybe Boo knows.

enfurio · November 2001

Well, it's finally official! I am the proud owner of a 2002 graphite metallic 4X4 QC (4.7L, 5 sp. sport, 3:92 LSD, all the goodies). I must say that I am impressed and a little bit smitten with my new toy (of course I haven't made my first payment yet). I work as an engineer in the automotive industry and cannot find any glaring issues with this vehicle (which is extremely rare for me). I just hope everything goes ok and I don't warp rotors, get cracked fog lights, hear popping noises, etc. The only complaint I have so far (that I will just have to get used to) is the relative height of the windshield. I have noticed that I must bend forward sometimes just to see traffic lights. Small beans. The only other problem is my rusty manual transmission skills (an excuse to go and practice!)

I have a couple of questions for you long time owners (especially those with the 5 speeds):

- The owner's manual mentioned something about a light in the center console (front buckets). I do not have a light there, does anyone else?

- There are 2 cup holders in my console. One big one behind the stick, and one off near the drivers right shin. Is the second one new? I know some of you guys have problems crushing your taco bell 64 oz. drinks when you shift.

- It seems that there is no "up-shift" indicator light with the 4.7 L manual trans set up (which is fine by me). I was just wondering if other years had this item.

- I read before that a few of you regularly started out from a stopped condition in second gear. The gearing seems to allow this, but I was just wondering if it has caused any of you problems (clutch wear, stalling, etc.).

- What are your thoughts on downshifting (engine braking). I have been told that the trans synchros are not designed for this unless you are traveling at slow enough speed for a lower gear.

- Where the hell do I check the manual trans. fluid?

- Has anyone removed either of the rear seats for extra storage space? (i.e. bulky, boxy items that can't get wet).

Thanks!
It's good to belong to such an informative, well versed group (have you ever read some of the other forum topics? Sheeeesh! Where do these people come from?)

bookitty · November 2001

Jack, Bill, I have not heard anything from Andy for a long while. I might try to Email him again (andy_jordan@mail.com.). Maybe we should all try, but I am not certain if he still has that address.

Bookitty

(I Emailed him and I will let you know. I sent a copy to themacguy)

ford_bii · November 2001

The second cup holder is not new.

I don't pull out in second, why burn the clutch up when you don't have to.

No up shift light on the 4.7.

I downshift all the time to engine brake. This truck is tough to shift perfectly, it takes a few thousand to get the timing perfect. You're right, it downshifts much better if you do it at lower rpm's.

To check the tranny fluid? Get under there with a wrench and take the fill plug out! I think only autos usually have a dipstick for this.

BTW: I have a 2001 with 9k miles. Not a hint of rotor warpage yet.

sunburn · November 2001

Just picked up my new 2002 Flame Red QC 4x4 Sport Plus(4.7, auto, 3.92, LSD). So far, everything appears perfect. It's so nice after shuffling around in an 11 year old 4 cyl Toyota 4x4. I just have to learn to keep my right foot out of it for the first 1000 miles. I want to unwind it so bad... Oh well, a little patience.

ferous · November 2001

No shift light

Starting in 2nd gear:
- First, I have the small P215 tires.
- Second, I use to drive a E-150 6 cyl with the 3 on the tree shift. Starting in 2nd with my Dakota requires a lot less slipping then a 3 spd. I had over 120K on that 3 spd with the original clutch. With 39K on my 4.7L 5 spd, the clutch is still strong.
I Downshift all the time. I usually coast a little then use just 3rd gear for slowing down. You will find your own sweet spot.

jebsdaddy · November 2001

I had the same question re: the shift light with the 4.7 liter and the 5 spd. The 4.7 liter eng. does not use the shift light and that is stated in a chart in the owners manual. The light is hooked up however and you can see this when you turn the key on. I have the split bench seat and it only has one cupholder up front. I found a factory looking 2 place add on cup holder at wal-mart that is USA! made and fits perfectly on the trans. hump next to the seat. It is called "Spill-Master" of all things. I don't start out in 2nd but do keep it in 2nd to proceed forward if I am moving forward with any speed at all. The 5-spd. gear ratio for the NV3500 is 4.03/1 in first and 2.33/1 in 2nd.

sunburn · November 2001

Just looking over my new 2002 QC this afternoon and noticed a few differences from the 2001s.

1) If you have alloy wheels, the spare is now a steel wheel.
2) The ashtray is gone.
3) The "Quad Cab" badge on the back of the cab is gone. Should have seen this one coming once the "V-6" and "V-8" badges disappered last year.
4) The elastic straps underneath the rear seats are gone.
5) The standard overhead console has one large compartment instead of two smaller compartments - one for sunglasses and one for a garage door opener.
6) The "Sport" sticker has a different "font" and is much smaller. From 30 ft away, it is barely visible.

I hope this is the extent of the DC cost cutting/changes.

So far I've only found two minor problems: 1) one of the clips for the ABS sensor wire on the left front wheel wasn't connected. Easily fixed; 2) the right windshield wiper does not park in the horizontal position. It points up slightly. Just minor nits.

enfurio · November 2001

Hey Sunburn

I just noticed today (before reading your post) that my passenger side windshield wiper wasn't in the "horizontal" position either. Oh well, no biggie.

jebsdaddy - My IP console has no upshift light at all (there is nothing there when I turn on the ignition OR in bright sunlight). More DC SCORE ideas (cost savings) I guess.

Thanks for the responses on shifting, I seem to be getting better at it every time. Can't wait to install the hurst kit with the glowing shift knob when I'm all broken in!

http://www.cenman.bitshop.com/FLAMEBALL.htm

Does anybody have the Borla Stainless Steel muffler installed? Granted, it sounds REAL good stock, but sometimes I can't hear or feel the RPM's. Man, is it hard to keep your foot out of the kitchen on this truck! I am, of course, treating it gently. Tryin to keep the RPM's under 3000 for the first 1000 miles.

jebsdaddy · November 2001

I also thought the windshield wiper on the passenger side was angled up too much when the wipers are parked. I bought the factory manual and in it I found out that when you are looking at the parked wiper from outside the truck, the wiper should line up with the line on the windshield or be within +/- 1/2" if I remember correctly. If it isn't, remove the plastic cap covering the nut that retains the arm. Remove the nut. Use a GOOD quality battery terminal puller to remove the arm and reposition it to better line up with the mark on the windshield. Note: when the wiper arm is in the correct position it will still look like it is angled up too much when you sit in the drivers seat but that is how it is supposed to be. Don't forget to wet the windshield with water before turning on the wipers so as not to scratch the windshield. Hope this helps.

billarf · November 2001

I have an '01 4.7 Dakota Quad Cab and I replaced the muffler with a stainless steel BORLA muffler.

The muffler # of the BORLA I used is #40665. I bought the muffler from Summit Racing Equipment (best price I could find) and it cost me $137.99 plus $6.75 handling and shipping was free. Took about 3 days for the muffler to arrive after ordering. After the muffler arrived I took it to a local Meinke Muffler Shop and then installed. Took about 40 minutes and they charged me $50.00. The old muffler came off undamaged by the way. My warranty is in no way voided and I was assured that by the dealer. The truck now has a nice rumble when it starts and when I accelerate. I can feel a difference in power also as the truck runs stronger. The BORLA is not as loud as other aftermarket mufflers but loud enough that some heads turn. Should mention that the muffler I installed (BORLA 40665) is an easy install and all that is needed to do the install is one muffler clamp and a male/female piece of pipe about 6 inches long that the muffler shop has or you can buy at say an AutoZone store. The STOCK Dodge exhaust is not welded but when they put the exhaust clamps on the pipes get crimped/dimpled and that makes the system hard to take apart. It's a bear to get the muffler separated from the exhaust pipes that's why I just had a muffler shop do it versus fighting with the damn thing. By the way for a less expensie, louder muffler look into Dynomax mufflers Stainless steel or welded Ultra Flo mufflers but do know they are much louder. They have a universal size that fits your truck. I looked into this one but decided to loud for me. Anyway, hope this helps! Bill in NY http://www.auffarth.com/dodge.html

http://www.borla.com/uk.melloprimo/?cartID=2001062413372812.79.135.79 <----- BORLA

http://www.summitracing.com <---- Summit

http://www.dynomax.com <---- Dynomax

gregp5 · November 2001

Had the first opportunity to use the heater in my 2001 QC. It seems no matter what position I had the rotary dial in, a good amount of hot air also blows through the dashboard vents, right into my face, which I cant stand. I suppose I could close the vents, but I don't think I should have to. Guys, this isn't normal is it?

ferous · November 2001

I have a 2000 which is different in the dash area, but when I choose the floor position, I do not get any air out of the vents.

ahasher · November 2001

for the FWIT category, I have the MPGs from my recent trip to South Florida. My average was right at 19 MPG. AC only on for a short period in late afternoon. It dropped when I hit construction traffic of course, but very light traffic overall so I kept the cruise at 75 MPH as much as possible.
My QC performed flawlessly, steady idle, great acceleration and the tranny shifted as smooth as I could ask for, making for a very good trip overall.
Refresher, 2000 4.7 auto, 3.92, T&H, Extang soft tonneau.
19 PG average made me very happy considering the it's a V8 and MPGs have been reported as much lower for some.

surffla1 · November 2001

As a prospective buyer I will appreciate any help from out there. The info. You have already provided has been invaluable!

1. Got a call today from my assigned Autobytel dealer in Winter Park, FL (Holler Dodge). Already he is saying "do not expect your Edmunds invoice prices and ours to match but I assure you, our invoice price is the true invoice price of the truck." Should I duck and run already?

2. He is already telling me that their "dealer fees" which included advertising, and a "prep" fee is a total of $500.00 and will be included in the final contract no matter what. Any thoughts please?

3. Since I know most of you who factory ordered did so to get the 5 speed manual 4.7 (like me) please tell me your opinions on the bench seat vs. the high back buckets? I found the bench seat to be quite comfortable when I test drove but of course it was automatic. I have no way of testing the ergodynamics of the 5 speed shifter with bench seats vs. buckets?

Hope this isn't asking too much from a "rookie" to the board but I would sincerely appreciate any advice. Thank you all.

rjay · November 2001

Just found out that my new QC was built at the factory yesterday. Now I've always heard that you shouldn't buy a car built on a Monday, as the quality Monday morning isn't as good. Lord knows I don't function as well on Monday morning... should I be concerned about this??

ALso - does anyone have a good delivery checklist to go over when picking up your new ride??

Thanks

ferous · November 2001

I ordered my truck (Jan 2000) because I wanted the 5 spd, but also everything is an option on this truck. So to get what I wanted, I had to order.
I never looked into Autobytell, but I spent hours going over the option pages from Edmunds to learn and understand which option codes included what, and required what. When I went into my local Dodge dealer I had a spread sheet with option codes, and descriptions (all from Edmunds) and showed it to the salesperson. When they priced out my truck, every dealer invoice price MATCHED Edmunds invoice prices. I checked it out after they wrote it up. I wouldn't pay any prep fee, because I was paying invoice price and I felt the prep fee was part of their 3% of invoice that they got. Knock on wood, but I've never been back to the dealer since I picked it up in Mar of 2000 (39K miles ago)

jebsdaddy · November 2001

This is to surffla1 and anyone else it may help:

I ordered my 2001 Dakota and helped my grandfather order a ford f-150. My best price was found by listing all of the codes on a piece of paper and the description of the codes beside the code. I faxed this to 8-10 dealers in my area and all of them responded quickly. The ironic part when ordering my grandfather's truck was when I used an on-line service for a quote. It turned out to be the highest quote of them all. Go figure. The edmunds web site is good but I like to use the edmunds book along with the web site.

Note: Advertising fees add up to a chunk of change. In my area, local advertising code #A44 was $160.00 and national advertising code #T44 was $320.00 for a total of $480.00. All of the quotes that I rec'd were consistent on this. You won't see this $480.00 on a window sticker on the lot because it is rolled into the msrp.

The bucket seats are identical to the bench seat. I prefer the bench because it looks like the buckets with the arm rest down but it gives the added function of more room in a pinch.

bookitty · November 2001

Patrick, you are correct when you mentioned a special order for 5 speed with 4.7. I have the 2000 Quad Cab, 5 speed, 4.7, 3.55 LSD, 4X4, HD service option, tow package, larger mirrors, SLT, rear slider, tire and handling, rub strips and more. I paid a little below invoice, but did get hit with the local and national advertising (about $400.00). I also invoked the Farm Bureau discount of $500.00 which came off the price prior to sales tax. (http://www.fb.com) I have the bench seat, as I was not enamored with the buckets. I had the bench seat in my 1995 Dakota Club cab as well, and I am well satisfied. Hope that this helps.

Bookitty

curious_gorge · November 2001

I just placed a special order for my truck and the dealer's base invoice for a 02 QC SPORT 4x4 is 21,224 (FWP). This came from the program they used to generate my special order pricing. This price and their price for my options matched almost exactly the pricing generated from an invoice website (it's someting like autoinvoice.com); within $100. As for the extra charges from the dealer, that still has to be negotiated, but they gave me a rough ballpark, though. (I have no problem giving the dealer a profit, but only around 3%, same as a realtor which is 3% to selling realtor, 3% to buying realtor with a lot of companies.)

jimt · November 2001

I think there have been some discussion on light scratching sound from steering wheel/column in the past, but could not find it. Just had the clock spring replaced on my '01 quad and still have some noise ( about same as before replacement). I can only hear this at slow speeds with stereo off. Am I too critical? Other than service, this truck has been great! 21,000 miles and no other complaints. Had the tranny fluid changed last week and will do the differentials next. Any input on the noise would be appreciated. JimT

enfurio · November 2001

I wouldn't worry too much about your vehicle being built on a Monday (its not like you have any control or say in the matter.) The quality control dept at the plant should catch any issues before it leaves. Some vehicle lines have a 50% quality re-work incidence (1 out of every 2 cars ends up on a hoist or in a stall within the plant to fix something before it leaves.) You just gotta check your vehicle when you pick it up and keep on top of it with the dealer if there are issues.

Vehicle checklist (it's for the Ram, but it works well)

http://dodgeram.org/buying_info/Inspect.htm

I blew the sales people away by mulling over my new QC for 2 hours in the cold when I picked it up. You WILL get dirty, but it's totally worth it. I found a few minor paint blemishes that they are going to fix.

I just picked mine up a week ago and have not experienced any major problems, I really like this truck.

SURFFLA: I prefer the "buckets" even though the benches are basically the same(albeit with more passenger room.) The center console you get with the buckets is larger (deeper), solid, and is a great place to rest your shifting arm. I don't know if the console with the bench seats is as "tall".

Mike

2002 4X4 QC 4.7L, 3:92 LSD, Sport, Manual trans, HD, towing pkg.

skylerk · November 2001

I have enjoyed participating in this forum for the past year since I got my custom-ordered 2001 QC on 11/1/2000. Unfortunately, our family needs have evolved and we have decided that a Suburban would serve better as our main family vehicle, so we are reluctantly selling our favorite red truck to finance the Suburban purchase.

If any of you know somebody that might be interested in buying a "like new" 2001 Dakota QuadCab 4x2 near Seattle, WA, have them check out the following web page and then contact me via the phone number or e-mail address listed at the bottom of the web page: http://dustin.kelm.com/dakota/

Skyler Kelm, Everett, WA

surffla1 · November 2001

Wow everyone, thanx for the responses. Think I might opt out of the bucket seats. One of my dealers just got in some 5 speed 6 cylinders. I'm going to drive them just to get the feel of shifting in the bench seats.

One other question I forgot to ask. The dealer in Winter Park wants $1000.00 up front prior to ordering. Is that standard? And if so (I neglected to ask when speaking to the dealer on the phone) is it refundable if for some strange reason not satisfied with the truck as delivered?

By the way I am leaving right now to go join my local county farm bureau!

Thanx again all!

ferous · November 2001

I'm not up to date on the 2002 model. Is the 6 cyl a new motor or the old 3.9? If it's the old 3.9, I would suggest getting the 4.7. More power and better MPG. (Old vs New engineering) If I remember correctly, the 5 spds are different between the 6 & 8 cyl too. The 4.7 has a newer heavier designed tranny.
I was only asked to put $500 down. Back in early 2000, I remember most of us were asked to put $500. My deposit was refundable if the dealer couldn't produce what we had agreed upon.

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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