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Comments
bsparx - thanks for the excellent info! I live in an urban area (Los Angeles/Orange County) so obviously on-road performance is important (although the way they're tearing up the LA roads you better have 4x4 just to go to the friggin' market these days! Talk about lousy road crews). My off-road usage will mostly snow (mountain driving in the sierras and off-road in snowy areas) and desert/sand ala Baja. I am around construction sites, so a good tough tread and sidewall are important. Speed is not an issue as I'm not a racing guy and rarely will get the truck up beyond 75-80 highway. Never go more than 25 off-road, less in black ice and snow for safety, obviously. Your last point about putting appearance factors last is extemely important. As is the safety issue, as we all know re the headlines. I don't know why people don't give more consideration to tires? I From your comments, it sounds like a P-rated tire (do the BFG's only come in LT?) would be the way to go. Wish I knew a way of testing each brand I'm looking at in real-world conditions. Guess I need to start writing for C&D or Edmunds Online to pull that one off without forking out any cash!
Dave.
By the way, I've found acceleration a bit better if you disable overdrive. Of course, I only use that at certain times like when some hot-rod kid is next to me and I need to boost my ego a bit!
fat_fenders
For mostly off-road I'd absolutely go with the BFG tires. The Michelins don't work out here in the Mesquite trees (thorns), and the Pirellis, well they just plain suck! But on my Datsun roadster they stick like glue... they just wear quickly, like Dunlops D40-M2's.
Strong caveat: These are MY opinions, relating to MY driving conditions, notably: HIGH heat most of the year, high(er) road speeds of 80-90 mph for short spurts, very little below freezing weather, lots of sand, human sized potholes, LOTS of thorns and screws and stuff, 80% on road / >10% caliche 'fireroads' / <10% medium to heavy duty off road muck. And absolutely NO help for hours if you come up with a tire problem. I know, I (and my dad) had to walk in August mid day heat for 3 hours with 2 brand new General tire blow-outs (bought at Sam's the day before) back in '90. One of the counties I have wells in has the lowest pop. in the U.S. (Loving County, TX pop. = about 6 and covers umpteen thousand miles), and no tire stores (but a first class little Post Office). :-O
A nice bonus: they're the cheapest tires I've ever used on a truck (about $380 per set out the door with a lifetime 'NO hassles' guarantee). Amazing.
In my case, the molding looks great because the entire truck is trimmed out black-on-white (brush guard, step bars, tonneau, etc.). Whether it'll someday save me a ding or two is questionable... Though I did do a "test crash" at a local supermarket... At least it fended off one wayward shopping cart!
Between 1200-1500 RPM at constant speed, I have a terrible shake. It is very noticeable. Your cheeks vibrate, etc. Also, when I accelerate and it kicks into high gear, the light starts blinking.
I stopped at my local dealer first thing today but he can't get me in until Monday. I asked if it was safe to drive until then and he said, "I wouldn't say that."
Anyone else have any similar troubles or advice?
Between 1200-1500 RPM at constant speed, I have a terrible shake. It is very noticeable. Your cheeks vibrate, etc. Also, when I accelerate and it kicks into high gear, the light starts blinking.
I stopped at my local dealer first thing today but he can't get me in until Monday. I asked if it was safe to drive until then and he said, "I wouldn't say that."
Anyone else have any similar troubles or advice?
nthdgreee: I called DC with my VON (vehicle order #). They gave me codes as to where it was during manufacture. THEN, I got the VIN once it was built and ready for shipment. I asked for the name of the carrier (in my case Norfolk & Southern RR). DC gave me the SN of the rail car on which my QC was loaded. THEN, I did a net search for the home page URL for N&S-RR and clicked on "Track a shipment." Using the SN of the rail car, I've been able to track its movement from Warren to Dallas.
Sounds like a lot to do but I sure enjoyed the process. It was like watching your child grow in your wife's body - imagining all the parts coming together and the whole becoming a "living" thing that will be an important part of your family.
New vehicles are like young women. Beautiful, crisp, spotless but without personality for they have no experience of life. My '92 Chev 2500 has 130K+ and I'd not trade her just to get that "young thang." I know her every mood and quirk. She knows mine. The smoothness of her steering wheel in the two places I always hold her is MY indelible mark just as the dented tailgate and scratched front fender. We have aged together. She has taken me many, many miles in all weather and done it safely. I owe her respect and care.
Oh, we will be delighted with the new Quad but, like a toddler, she will have to be trained and will train us.
Best of luck to us both ........ chiefdoc
Bookitty
As to pricing sites, my recommendation would be
invoicedealers.com
When I ordered, their specs and pricing lined up EXACTLY with the dealer order book.
Good luck!
Note: Someone has mentioned here (way, way back in time) that you have three days (that would be uhhh tomorrow) to consider your purchase a 'done deal.' Supposedly most states will let you 'give' it back to the dealer - I'm sure with him kicking & squealing like a stuck pig. Not sure how that works - IF it does, but I'd sure look into it.
You might get the codes and work from there (actually, here), first.
On a lighter note... Can anyone tell me what the 3 loops of belt are for along the top of the back seats? For the life of me, I can't figure it out.
Thanks again!
Thoughts of my truck rarely leave my mind. I'm probably driving my wife crazy. It's really fun though.
Now a little about me, I'm a lifelong Mopar fanatic and only strayed from the fold once ( 1988 Mustang Police Interceptor..pretty peppy, but not brutally fast). My employment (it's definatly not work) is as a product safety technician, which is a fancy way of saying I get paid to break things for a living and make sure you all don't get hurt. I'm a former part-time Firefighter/Paramedic and Dodge dealer employee. Hobbies include Cars(duh), woodworking,camping, looking for Mrs. She'll Do, and reading (especially anything Mopar or musclecar related. I live and work in the northern Chicago suburbs. I am also a member of the Chicago Mopar Connection car club and would encourage and others in the area to check us out.
Anyway, enough about me, back to the truck.
- 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab Sport 4x4
- 4.7L V-8
- 5 speed stick
- part-time 4x4
- Bright Silver Paint
- Sport Plus Pkg.
- Heavy Duty Service
- Towing Pkg.
- 3.55 Sure-Grip
- ABS
- Rear defogger Pkg.
- Deluxe Conv. Grp.
- Power Conv. Grp.
- Block Heater
- Am/FM/CD Infinity Stereo
- Alarm
Planned Modifications
- Sprayed in Bedliner
- Wheels & Tires ( American Racing 767's and BFG All-terrrains)
- Bed extender
- Roof Rack
- Mud Flaps
- Cat-Back Exhaust (Gibson??)
- Homemade Air Intake w/K&N
- Euro Style grille guard (recommendations?? w/o headlite covers)
- KC lights on above
- CD changer
Wow, sorry for the long post, but on last thing.
I want to thank all the regulars and non-regulars (you know who you are) for sharing their knowledge and insight to all and making these groups a great place to spend some time.
They are out of 4x4 with the optons I want. Does anyone hink I should go ahead and get the truck (21k with most options and bed cover+ side bars), or wait for the 4x4 to come in. I do travel to GA and I am not sure if the Rw drive will cut it on the harder stuff yet alone the snow up here. Please help.
P.S.
I took it to the car wash before I went back to the dealer.
-Chris
I'm thinking that maybe the computer needs to "learn" that in the fall, the air is cold in the morning and warm in the afternoon. I do park in an insulated garage so the truck is warm when I get in it, but I don't think that is making the difference.
in the winter season. Whatever route you choose, we wish you the best, and someone is always here to help answer your questions. Good luck.
Bookitty
I plan on adding splash guards, step bars, fiberglass bed cover, and maybe a Gibson muffler later on. No problems at all with the truck so far.
dave g.
I'll keep everyone informed of my progress.
P.S. The truck is great in every other aspect but this kind of mechanical problem bothers me.
I just bought my '00 on Monday. The dealer told me that at 4000 mi. the computer automatically cuts the idle back. He said this was to save fuel. At the time I thought it was a cool thing, now I'm not so sure. I can't think of the conversion off the top of my head (mi --> km) but you might be right around there.
Imagine my excitement when I call them today and they tell me it was already in paint (code F) and would be hitting trim (code G) very soon. As far as the rep. knew she said it was scheduled to be loaded on the rails TODAY!! THIS IS THREE WEEKS EARLIER THAN WAHAT I WAS TOLD FOUR DAYS AGO!! I'm not complaining believe me.
I don't know how assembly lines work but can they ship a vehicle so soon after painting? It's probably not painted the way I think it is.
Anyway, you guys on this board are great! I've gotten so much information from you all that it has really made a big difference my excitement level. I'll keep you all posted as things develop.
Steve
tuvtest: i bought the mopar bed extender installed, which includes two bars that the extender snap into, and it extends further than most aftermarkets, for under $200. i know that most people are picking up the aftermarket for around $179 after shipping, but ask them how installation went. you might find that the little extra is worth it.
gaquad: i have the slider and have no problem with the noise, in fact i kind of like to hear the slight purrrr of the 4.7 when it isn't on a flatbed.(i'm not bitter at all).
any info from my fellow quaders would be greatly appreciated, and i will post on any progress.
victx thanks for the stereo info. greatly appreciated.
Evan
Well I couldn't resist anymore. I finally called out to DC again just to see and hope that maybe they pushed my build date up. It was originally scheduled to be built and shipped during the first week of October. The last time I called them was this past Monday 9/11.
Imagine my excitement when I call them today and they tell me it was already in paint (code F) and would be hitting trim (code G) very soon. As far as the rep. knew she said it was scheduled to be loaded on the rails TODAY!! THIS IS THREE WEEKS EARLIER THAN WAHAT I WAS TOLD FOUR DAYS AGO!! I'm not complaining believe me.
I don't know how assembly lines work but can they ship a vehicle so soon after painting? It's probably not painted the way I think it is.
Anyway, you guys on this board are great! I've gotten so much information from you all that it has really made a big difference my excitement level. I'll keep you all posted as things develop.
Steve
#40-0145 Can't wait to Install it. Should get it by next Thursday.This is a 1 piece so it has to be shipped Via truck freight.
I himmed and hawwed between Westin and Manik. Not an easy choice.In the end Westin has a 5 year warranty as opposed to the 3 year with the Manik. That said you could just flip a coin on the fit and finish..I'll post on the install when complete.
As far as going off road well,at least you know you can if you put one on yours..Just be careful as to not scratch the paint.
Allen-
Without taking a measurement, it seems that the mouldings for a Durango would fit. At least the front one for the Qcab. The front doors appear to be the same. The benefit is that the Durango mouldings come in COLORS !
Although the Durangos don't come in Amber Fire, they do have the Lt. Driftwood Satin. The same as the Tu-Tone Dak color on the bottom. If anyone has looked at this closer, please post your findings.
Jim
1) The shop manual does not mention this "feature" at all. (This manual is quite explicit in operational characteristics)
2) I heard this 4K mile rumor when I received my rig and actually slowed down and let the 4K mile mark 'click' past... no idle change at all.
I would sooner think that the programming for the idle is somewhat different for the first 4K miles to allow for break-in. The tolerances on the 4.7L hemi are VERY tight and it takes time for it to "loosen up".
There is NO QUESTION that environmental changes (cold mornings) will take time for a new rig to "learn" how to idle. Again, the shop manual describes the learning process which is an algorithm with many inputs for the computer to contend with. The learning process is based on "similar circumstances", time, and is continually updating the computer programming on the fly as more data is collected. (fuzzy logic)
As a programmer by trade... I can relate to what the designers have attempted to do. Its not perfect but should result in a better-running engine as more miles are accumulated.
I have already described in the past my opinions about the idle programming on the 4.7L and look forward to a FLASH to update the code within the computer. My rig did not begin to idle respectfully until beyond 8K miles and still has its moments when presented with uncommon situations.
A WORD OF WARNING Be wary of 'fixes' the dealer does by "resetting" the computer or disconnecting the battery. The computer may end up jut like a BRAND NEW system that is "stupid" (ALL PREVIOUS LEARNING MAY BE FORGOTTEN)
Bookitty
Just wondering what you paid for the truck. Looks like the same options I would like to get. I have seen quite a bit of disparity in costs for DQC's with similar options.
Does anyone know of the availability of an aftermarket electric rear sliding window. In my s-10 I can reach it and it does balance the airflow through the truck. Will order the QC with solid rear glass and rear defrost and hope to add electric rear slider later if available.
I purchase the moldings (black, fitted standard on SLTs) for my '00 Sport and slapped them on myself. For my purposes (all black-on-white trim), it works perfectly.
BUT... For those with colors that match the Durango line, provided the Durango moldings are as long or longer than required, trimming them would be a simple matter!
You'd need an angle-cut on each non-tapered (90 degree) end... Very simple! Measure and mark the molding, slip it into a miter saw and make the cuts... CAUTION!!! When cutting any plastic or hard rubber material in a power miter, remove and install the blade in REVERSE first.
Wish I'd thought of that! Might have gone with white molding on my QC!
Doing so should increase idle rpm slightly and I would be interested to see if it makes a difference. I am woundering if I will face the same problems when the first "blue northerner" rolls in, probably about January by the way things are going....92 degrees today!
If anyone has already thought of this please inform the rest of us.
Thank you
I have had trouble finding a dealer in my area to look at one or get a price quote. Anyone have better luck?
I went with the small, simple Westin brush guard/light bar. I chose it for two reasons: First, as a "sacrificial" component in honor of those who can't resist practicing the art of "touch-parking." Once the mounts are installed on the frame, the bar itself is easily removed/replaced quickly/cheaply by popping two bolts (much cheaper than a bumper replacement). Second, I chose it simply as a place to hang some decent fog lamps to supplement the pitiful factory lamps. A word of caution on the Westins, however... It AIN'T easy to install the mounts to the frame and still retain correct bumper-to-body alignment and clearance!
ROADMASTER -- Has anyone installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension units on the rear of their QC??? I've been researching them... VERY impressed with the engineering simplicity, and encouraged that these supplemental units have what it takes to eliminate minor rear-end squat while towing without resorting to the cost and hassle of a load-equalizing hitch.
The price is right, and the install looks relatively simple... Just wondering whether anyone has installed a set.
Bookitty
Bookitty
Allen-
PS I'am not very good at "cutting" and "pasting" how about you? LOL..