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Comments
I am a Ford man. Granted, I'm only 23, but my family has never owned anything but Fords. We currently have my '86 Bronco II, an '89 Ford Ranger (my backup for when the Bronco breaks, which its done a bit lately (126k miles)) a '98 Expedition, a '98 F-150, a '95 F-150, and a '98 Mystique. The Expedition has only 16k miles on it, and it has already had the auto trans replaced once. Not to mention this is the SECOND Expediton. Ford bought the first one back because it was such a piece of crap. My dad's '98 F-150 needed some new idle modulator last month, but otherwise hasn't been too bad. My brother's '98 Mystique is a nightmare. It has had so much wrong with it it's not funny. Probably why Ford stopped making them. The other trucks have had the usual maintenance done to them over the years. But it's the problems with the newer vehicles that have given me a bad sense with Ford lately. Plus everything I read on BlueOvalNews.com is downright scary.
I too was in your boat. My first impression when I decided I needed a new vehicle was to get something like the Bronco II again, probably an explorer. I test drove a Sport Trac, and thought it was pretty neat. But a few things bugged me.
1. Interior. Ford is screwed up on this one, I don't get it. They market this thing as an outdoor baja buggy and yet the only way to get a hard center console (not the stupid soft bag) is to buy the LEATHER. Now who in their right mind puts Leather in a vehicle with a rubber floor and completely bare doors??
2. The mileage is about the same as the QC, mainly becuase if you want the "sport" package (foglights, running boards, bigger rims) you have to take the 4.10 rear. WHY IS THIS?? How does a purly cosmetic package imply the need for a higher rear end??
3. The sunroofs had major leaking problems, dunno if they fixed it yet or not.
4. The paint under all the doors was missing on a load of them. I read this in the Sport Trac Edmund's group.
5. Problems with the power steering 'pulsing' dunno if this is fixed or not.
6. That short bed. Realistically, it's too short for anything.
7. The thing is wayyyy overpriced. I have to bow to ford for their great choice of nameplates. By giving the truck the "Explorer" name, they automatically can get 4k more than a similarly equipped Ranger pickup, which is what the Sport Trac is, since it's built on the Ranger frame.
8. Great plastic everywhere. This kind of goes along with the leather interior. This truck is pseudo-luxory. It's priced expensive, but when you look at it, it's got a bare interior. I like the interior on the Dakota much better.
I guess that's it for the thing's I didn't like. now to compare:
I like the QC because for less money, you get:
1. Bigger bed. Much more useful. I can actually fit my mountain bike in it. Can't do that on the ST.
2. V8 power.
3. 5-speed. ST didn't offer it when I was looking, and the word is that it is going to, but the talk on Blue Oval news says that it is a piece of crap, which I can believe. Even though the ST is going to offer a 5 speed now, all the good options (sunroof, leather, sport package) are not available with it. Go figure.
I think that's it. I've gone on long enough. To sum it all up, the QC is a better value, and is (to me) a classier vehicle with a better interior, and in my opinon, an awesome exterior. I like the two-tone as well, which I'm going to get. On the ST every truck gets that cheesy grey plastic all over it, whether the color looks good with it or not.
I'm probably going to order my QC in a week or two. I wanted to wait for the 4th quarter rebates to come out to see if I'll get lucky.
Sorry for the long post, but I figure this should help you make the right decision.
Chris
Fog Lights: I found out talking to some friends who work at the Darango plant in Delaware that all the wiring and relays are in the 2001 (not sure about the 2000). The only thing missing is the pull out light switch and of course the fog lights. But I also found out when they changed the front fascia you now can't add them later.
By the way, I would think twice about getting full-time 4WD (more precisely, I didn't even think once about getting it). This has surfaced periodically in the Dakota topics (last time about a week ago).
I'm looking for some advice! I just changed the tires on my 00'Quad. I went from the stock 255
65's to a 275 60 size. Now, my question is>>>>>>
Should I unplug the battery an let the computer reset...or bring it in to the dealership an have the computer flashed????? Any suggestions would be helpful!!!
Oh, one more thing.... The new tires are
Firestone Firehawks ss20's..>>>> It's true, It's true... so stop laughing
I have this one, and am wondering if there is another one....anyone????
SPORT TRAK -- A final, basic note on the Ford ST vs. QC... My last truck was a '95 Ram 4X4 short box, about 7-9 inches shorter overall than my QC (not sure on the WB spec). Being shorter (like ST) and taller (like ST), the Ram looked cool! But when it comes to ride quality, the QC leaves the Ram back there in the ditch somewhere.
By comparison, the Ram ride was choppy, tracking characteristics were miserable (constantly correcting) and driver fatigue on highway trips (due to the above) was far greater than with the QC.
I've never driven a Sport Trak, so consider this purely speculative. But because the ST "proportions" are so similar to that Ram, I would suspect that it shares at least some of those negative handling attributes (common to short wheelbase vehicles in general).
I'll shut up now.
Firestones?...now?...and your admitting it why?
The rear doors are different on a Quad and a Durango. The Durango are larger but mostly higher up on the door and not down low where the molding is. Both models use the same door molding and both models have the molding ending 2-3 inches short on the rear door.
The color matched molding on the Durango does not go all the way through. The front molding is cut square and you can see the black under layer.
Black and loaded with almost everyting except leather and upgraded radio (I will be replacing that). I put on the molded mud flaps yesterday and will be working towards a liner of some kind and a Tonneau cover.
No problems so far: No hesitant or bumpy upshifts, no spooky door locks that control themselves, weather stripping looks solid (so far) doors, bed and fender measurements are all even and square and the engine sounds and runs smoooooth. I couldn't be happier.
Thanks to all those out there who provided me with so much good information. This club is awesome.
So far I only have 250 miles on the truck. I plan on putting more on, as you might imagine, this weekend. I'm even excited about our first snow. Driving this around in the winter time will be a lot easier than the 78 Trans Am I've been using.
Gotta go.
Grab the wife (or whoever happens to be available)... Head out to the interstate and the mile-markers... Clock the vehicle over a 3-mile stretch at 60 mph... Record the numbers... Repeat the process at 70mph and 80 mph.
Come home, crack a beer, grab a calculator, convert the miles to feet and the MPH to FPS... Do the calculations... Convert back to MPH... Grab a roll of plastic tape, cut small slivers, and schlepp them on the speedo cover to indicate honest mph at whatever speed increments you choose to clock.
Tacky? Yep! But that last speeding ticket I had was in 1976... And I still have some tape left!
On the Dakota that uses the differental ring-gear sensor for the speedo ALSO CONTROLS THE ABS SYSTEM.
BOTTOM LINE:
If you change the overall tire diamater, the computer MUST be made aware of the change. The speedo calibration is secondary.
A MALFUNCTINOING ABS SYSTEM CAN KILL YOU!!
First, for my purposes, I've never made "radical" changes to tire diameters, and do not have (nor believe in) 4-W ABS in a pickup for my personal applications.
But for discussion purposes, let's assume you have 4-W ABS... You swap out to much larger (diameter) tires...
IF the 4-W system relied solely on rear-wheel rotational values, I can understand that it might over-compensate to the rear. However, since 4-W systems relay on RELATIVE front-rear rotational values, and presuming the tires are all the same size, HOW could that cause a malfunction?
If I'm missing something, I'd sure like to know! I've spent a good deal of time with the factory R&D techs at Ford and Toyota (regrettably not Dodge of late)... And I've never run across any cautions regarding tire up-sizing relative to antilock malfunctions in either research or their documentation (service or consumer).
This IS, however, an INTERESTING POINT! So much so, that it's now on my list of "stuff to cover" during my next round of service research!
I'm going to check the docs on my truck and others... If what you're saying should be a concern, and IF there are no cautions in the owner's documentation, then it would seem that we're looking at a potentially serious (and expensive) "hole" in addressing safety issues with customers!
I am not sure about the operation of the 4wheel ABS... Good question! Perhaps the 4wheel ABS system has a FRONT sensor too?
Clearly the wheel deceleration speed is calculated from the differential sensor and the algorithm HAS to know the wheel diameter for the calculations to be correct.
Traction control is another story. In this condition a spinning wheel is either slowed by brake force or the engine power is reduced until the wheel speed stabilizes. But we don't have to worry about that one.
With respect to your comment on the full time 4wd problems, can you briefly elaborate? I've tried to do a search on the 800+ messages posted on this site but had no luck finding any topics discussing problems with this option.
BTW, I test drove a 4.7 QC with auto trans and part time 4wd last night and it was awesome. Acceleration was powerful and smooth as silk. Also took the QC through a dirt field with potholes etc. per the salesman's suggestion -- and the suspension really ate those bumps and potholes up. This is a great truck and I'm really leaning in this direction. I plan to test drive both vehicles one-after-the-other this weekend, then my mind should be made up.
Regarding the standard rear-wheel antilock, we're looking at far less sophisticated operation. I believe it's still (as it was in my '95 Ram) essentially a "go/no-go" system - simply a sensor/electromagnetic pickup that determines whether a locked condition exists, then uses a simple front/rear proportioning valve to HELP correct the condition... Hence, you won't feel that "pulsating" pedal as you do with a 4-wheel system.
AHH well... Still has me wondering! When daylight breaks, I'll run out and grab the owner's docs to see what's said about swapping tires.
Thanks for the help.
Chuck- Charlotte, NC
I'm bringing it back to the dealer's Monday, but fear the problem won't show itself when they test drive it.......Has anyone else heard of this problem.....? any suggestions ?
Dave.
Will do.......my problem occurs at higher speed too........but it's weird, cuz some trips I make it seems fine.....I also get a "ticking" noise when i first put the truck into gear....this too is intermittent.......
peter
Keep us posted if you check into it farther.
To some people (contractors and other TRUE truck users) Being able to carry full sheets of plywood
with the tailgate closed is a litmus test for the capacity of the bed.
UNFORTUNATELY ... the quad cab does not pass this test very well ... the tailgate has to be left open and a bed-extender should be used.
Also, is the 1000 rebate in effect?? I can't find it anywhere, just the above post!!
Just wondering whether the shifting problems are occurring on the 1>2 or 2>3 shifts... And if so, whether it may have anything to do with that trick second gear.
us.media.daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm
This is a great site for all kinds of detailed info from Dodge, includding vehicle specs, photos, concept cars,and more. it shows a QC rebate set at $2000 through Jan 8,2001. I wish now I had waited a month on ordering mine.
All you fellow QC'rs out there....when or which position does your steering wheel lock in?
Also, my truck came from the factory with one button push to unlock all doors. How do you get it to just unlock the drivers side. The manual tells you how to set the four door lock, so I just tried that process but it didn't work. Anyone else out there have any luck with that? It says to turn the key back and forth 4 times from the "off" to the "on" position. What is the "on" position. Is that the position just before all your instrument lights come and chimes come on?
I haven't tried deactivcating the horn honk yet. I know we haven't had much luck with that on these boards. By the way, I have a 2001, V8, 4.7, 4WD, LSD.
Steve
Sorry for the late response, here is my write up on upgrading your headunit. http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/DakStereo.html
For any of you guys with upgraded OEM sound systems, please let me know the details of your speaker sizes and locations. This will be helpful in deciding how to upgrade my speakers. I ordered the basic 4 speaker system which has 6.5 speakers up front and in back. I've been thinking of putting 6.5 components up front and maybe some 8" woofers in back.
towcrazy: my shimmy or stutter seems to occur between 1-2. It feels like the first upshift off the line and travelling at approximately 10-15 mph. As I said, if I punch it off the line, it's a smooth shift and it rolls right into 2, then 3. I can't tell if it's "hunting" to find 2nd gear, or if it's something else. Course I only have 81 miles on the dang thing so it's best to wait a bit longer. welcome all thoughts and/or theories.
dave.