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Comments
ASTA -- Because yours is a 1>2 shift problem under light acceleration, it sounds like a problem with the dual-range second gear in that tranny... As though the tranny can't "decide" which range it should shift to.
My understanding is that under light acceleration, it should shift from first into a higher (lower numerical) second gear range. Under heavy acceleration, it should shift from first to a lower (higher numerical) second gear range. That MAY be the problem.
HOWEVER... I'm far from qualified to venture an accurate guess, since I have the 5.9 mated to a different (old-style) tranny in my '00 QC. The vast majority of contributors here have the 4.7 with the same auto as you... Perhaps they'll give you a sense for how that 1>2 shift SHOULD be working under different engine loads.
Now I see that it has gone up to $2000.Any thing I can do about it now? Any ideas?
Leigh
With this in mind, one must also consider WHICH second gear is having a problem.
This not REALLY a 4-speed xmission in the sense of going thru 4 gears to get to high (3rd). Instead, there are 2 second gears which are used under differeing conditions. (UPSHIFT or DOWNSHIFT)
The one time I drove the 4.7, I really wasn't taking note of HOW the tranny shifted... Though I will say that it seemed to shift more smoothly than my 3-sp /w/ overdrive.
a QC (like I did) TWO days before the increase when they were still at $750!
Still, I'm not sorry. It's unquestionably the best of the last three 4-by's I've had.
The 'smoothness' you refer to is perhaps due to the advanced design of this xmission that dynamically refines the shift points and engagement time based on immediate conditions.
In reference to the engine braking performance of the Dakota... I recall a magazine article that was testing trucks under REAL 4X4 conditions and the downhill 'slowness' test was taken by the Dakota. In fact the Dakota was FAR better than any of the others test vehicles...ie Ranger, S10/15, Toy, Nissan...etc.
As I recall, the Dakota xfer case was attributed to this ability of the Dakota.... Do you have the FLOOR-MOUNTED or the new pushbutton Xfer case?
On the subject of AWD, I liked the way it functioned in the rain. I purposely floored the QC around the corners etc. to see how well it would grip (on empty roads and moderate speeds, of course) and I never could get it going sideways. This system is similar to my '94 Montero SR in AWD mode -- it splits the torque front and back at a set rate (50/50 on the Montero) and prevents the front wheels from binding while making turns on dry surfaces (like the parking garage). I always use the AWD mode on my Montero in the rain b/c I find it has far superior grip off the line and around corners than while in 2WD mode. I've only had to use 4WD Hi-Lock in the mountains in heavy snow, and I've never had the pleasure of using 4WD Low-Lock with the rear differentials locked (the Montero has a rear differential airlock). Still, I'm not 100% convinced AWD is worth the wear and tear on the vehicle. At least my Montero has a 2WD option also, which I admittedly use 90% of the time. (Actually, the Montero's 4WD system is one of the best I've seen: 2WD-AWD-4WDHiLock-4WDLowLock-4WDLowLock with Rear diff lock. Plus, varying ABS brake programing for each mode -- of course you pay about $10k more for the Montero and never really use all of this capability unless you live in the Outback or something).
The only thing I didn't like about the QC vs. ST was the noticable tendency of the QC to bounce more over rough terrain than the ST. I'm wondering if any one knows if this can be solved using different shocks -- like the stiffer ones found on the R/T Dakota or Durango. I prefer a rougher ride with less bounce to the stock set up on the QC.
Lastly, the dealer mentioned something about a Mopar "cold air induction system" that he claims can add more HP and increase gas mileage. Has anyone heard about this and/or have any 1st hand experience with this system? Is it similar to a K&N filter type device?
My thanks again to everyone who's given his/her input on this subject and my apologies for the long post.
Too bad I didn't have one before I bought a QC, but I'll have one now! Something to keep with my window sticker...just for kicks. Hey, if I'm going to drool, I'd rather do it a brochure instead of when I'm driving it! That wouldn't look cool. ;-)
fat_fenders
Not sure where you measured, but here's what I did.
With all the messages about people's rearends being off center (on their TRUCKS!), I checked the offset on my rear axle.
To check rearend centering, I measured from the frame to one of the outer most grooves on the tire. My rearend is offset a 1/4" to the driver's side. I'm unsure how accurate that measurement would be, but one would think if all tire molds were made the same, that should work. In any case, it's not something I'm going to worry about.
To check the bed, I measured from the front edge of the bed to the rear door seam, right at the door handle. My box is within 1/8" there. One could also measure from the frame (same place you measured for the rearend) to the edge of the wheelwell. That should give you an idea of what's off where.
There have been others that have been worse and I'm sure some better. Please let us know what you find out and how you resolve your situation.
fat_fenders
Maybe try cross-measuring the box, corner to corner, at the top of the rails. With the right combination of measurements being "within manufacturing tolerance", something could end up way out of wack. (Whatever "wack" is.) :-)
I follow where you're measuring but an inch seems like a lot. Maybe I'll check mine closer. Visually, it looks ok.
fat_fenders
I can successfully re-program the one button push to unlock all doors or the driver's side door but I can't seem to get the horn honk to stop or re-activate my auto door locks when I reach 15 MPH. My truck actually did this Auto door lock)when I got it but somehow when trying to set the one button push, it stopped working.
Has anybody else figured out any other ways to do this? By the way, The manual says you'll here a chime when programming is complete..sometimes I hear a small "beep" and other times I don't hear anything. I have a 2001.
Do you folks turn the key all the way to off or do you just back it down one notch from the "on" position. From what I can tell there is an "off" then there is a section that just activates the one set of small lights (I think it's either odometer or PRNDSL) then the very next notch is "on" with the chimes and everything. I guess the question is, what is Off and what is On?
One last thing, sorry this is so long. I noticed when you cycle from on to off three times my odometer reading will change from the mileage to "P COMPLETE" has anyone else seen this? What does it mean, "Programming Complete"? Funny thing is it happens on the third cycle not the fourth. Any insights would be helpful.
Steve
Your theory about a different oilpan on the DAK than was on the JGC is a new twist I had not considerd.
Perhaps some of the other readers will share their experiences with oil changes on the 4.7L V8 hemi
You are right in that 6 puts it over the top, but that said I don't think that it is that big a deal. When the vehicles come from the factory they have 6 quarts, and as anyone can testify the oil pressure guage is still in the white - near the high side of the white (a good thing), but still in the white. With less than 6 quarts the pressure drops slightly under load, and somewhat more significantly at idle - but still stays in the white.
Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about putting 6 quarts in, I wouldn't worry about 5, but I would be going nearer 6 as the engine gets older and less 'tight'.
As another curve ball, some owners have reported putting 5 quarts in, running it for a few minutes and then topping off - I am assuming that this is different from just starting and shutting down the engine during the change to get the oil moving around the system (including the filter).
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My last 3 vehicles (Audi 5000, Mazda 929, Chev PU) all had electric door locks/windows. Actually, the Audi had a vacuum system! Anyway, they have ALL caused problems eventually. My new 01 QC was ordered with MANUAL door locks and I'm happy as a lark. Seems SOMETIMES, going back to the simple is just that, simple. I didn't get the heated/electric side mirrors either nor the split rear window (will NEVER have another one of those). The $ I saved on those things allowed me to get a better music system and LSD and 16in wheels for the 4x4 so I'm pleased. Have almost 1K on the sweetie now and havn't found a single thing that needs a visit to the dealer to repair. My big '92 Chev 2500 4x4 was same-same, never went back for that usual foot-long list of problems new cars seem to always have.
Happy QC-ing
Thanks
Larry
Too many stories of burnt out electric window motors (excessively high replacement price), door locks which open and close at will, security systems which go crazy.
Would you list how your truck is equipped?
engine size, which transmission, sport or slt, rear axle ratio, locking axle, etc.
I will probably order in the near future and appreciate any and all experiences and advice.
So far I'm thinking about the following:
2001 Dakota Quad Cab
4.7L engine
slt
2 tone paint
medium bronze / bright silver
t&h package
hd service group
cloth high back bucket seats
skid plates
anti-spin differential axle
trailer tow group
body side moulding
fog lamps
engine block heater
raz radio am/fm/cd/cassette
steering wheel mounted audio controls
leather wrapped steering wheel
3.55 axle or 3.92 axle???? not sure yet
5 speed tranny or automatic?? not sure yet
sliding rear window?? not sure yet, maybe a power after market one?
I will most likely get a cap for the bed.
What do you other quad owners have? cap or tonneau cover?
happy trucking
I'm too particular about my Quad to allow someone else to change my oil especially after some of the horror stories I've seen posted about Jiffy Lube and the like. I even fill the oil filter 3/4 full of oil before I install it to prevent the momentary lack of lubrication while a dry filter fills with oil. (I tried filling the filter all the way full but it runs down your arm ). Rick
Instead, it is the PCV valve ( Positive Crankcase Ventilation ) that maintains a VACUUM within the crankcase. The PCV valve was introduced to reduce emissions by sucking in and burning the noxious gasses that form in the crankcase. A secondary benefit from the PCV valve is that oil leaks are reduced. Any small holes in the oil gaskets would not leak because the system sucks. (NOT NASTY LANGUAGE!) This is one emissions - control device that was a WIN WIN.... (no bad side-effects and reduced oil-leaks too!)
BTW... the EGR valve actually routes exhaust gases back into the intake under mid-throttle conditions. It is another emissions control device but this one can make an engine run like crap.
1) activate the AC full time(such as Position 1-MaxAC, 2 or Defrost), or;
2)Activate the AC if the conditions are correct (I assume temperature).
Recheck the Owners manual. I believe this information to be documented there.
Sorry to revisit this topic yet another time but I'm having trouble deciding on my bedliner needs. I saw QC the other day with the Line-X applied over the rails - wasn't "crazy" about the appearance and when I asked the guy if he liked it he said it's pretty good but that he could've waited until he was ready to sell the truck to apply the Line-x and saved himself a few hundred dollars upfront. I'm not crazy about the permanence aspect of the Line-X and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on the Mopar bed mat or if they make a bed tray for the QC. Are the Mopar mats really easy to clean and reposition once taken out. Also, do rubber bed mats suffer from potential rust like plastic bedliners?
Need some guidance here guys!
Dave.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to check the status of my Dakota I have ordered here on the net? Thank you for all your help.
Bookitty
Bitterooter- well Boo beat me to it, boy he's got fast fingers. Here is a link to a detailed description of checking status.
"http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html"
4x4
5 speed
lsd
standard rear end
16in wheels
tilt/cruise, leather wheel
middle stereo (cd without changer)
skid plates
bronze
(MANUAL door locks/side mirrors; no alarm thing [no one pays the slightest attention to them anyway]; manual windows)
This truck is for my wife (I have my Chev 2500 4x4) so didn't need the tow or heavy duty stuff. She loves a 5sp and we drive over 5 miles of gravel road daily. This is also our long distance vehicle (tilt/cruise). I've had too much trouble with the sliding rear window in past trucks to ever want another besides the ease of breaking into them by thieves.
Good luck and ordering is a blast! Then comes the frustration of waiting for build and delivery but you get the truck YOU want, not something off the lot.
ONLY negative thing about the QC so far is the ridiculously difficult task of releasing the wench cable retainer from the spare tire; have to lower tire to the ground then RAISE up one side and reach UNDER to turn retainer sideways and slip through wheel hub hole. My chev's retainer is rectangular (not round) and with tire laying on ground I can easily reach in from the TOP and remove the cable. This was a real ergonomics/human factors design mistake by DC.