Attn: tuvtest.... We are picking up our ordered 2001 quad cab this afternoon. I have seem numerous posts about the new rebate that went into effect 10/3/00, but can't find it anywhere in the dodge site or here on Edmunds. I went to the web address you posted about the $2000 rebate and there is no such address. would you confirm it for me? I used: www.us.media.daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm. I was able to get to daimlerchryler but there is no rebate info. Thanks much! I am so excited it is finally here. Ordered it 9/6/00.
PARFOUR -- If you're getting in all gears, sounds like you may be right about a major trans problem or programming problem... A pain in the butt to jot down all the info (rpm ranges where it occurs, gears, etc.), but that's probably what it'll take to get the dealership on it RIGHT... If you don't get any satisfaction, ask them for the name and number of the District Service Rep.
ASTA -- Because yours is a 1>2 shift problem under light acceleration, it sounds like a problem with the dual-range second gear in that tranny... As though the tranny can't "decide" which range it should shift to.
My understanding is that under light acceleration, it should shift from first into a higher (lower numerical) second gear range. Under heavy acceleration, it should shift from first to a lower (higher numerical) second gear range. That MAY be the problem.
HOWEVER... I'm far from qualified to venture an accurate guess, since I have the 5.9 mated to a different (old-style) tranny in my '00 QC. The vast majority of contributors here have the 4.7 with the same auto as you... Perhaps they'll give you a sense for how that 1>2 shift SHOULD be working under different engine loads.
Zonk is correct, DO NOT USE www or you won't get through, which is why I didn't include it in the address. When you get to the site, scroll down a few lines and look on the right hand side under "New Vehicle Sales Incentives" and you will find all the rebates and special financing (no special financing on QC's). I hope you see this in time. Good luck and good Quadding.
first I did'nt mean to sound snippy about the link, just a bad day at work. Second I missread the page, for MY2000 the rebate is $2000. For MY2001 its only $1000 on the Dakotas my humble apologies.
Lets keep in mind that the 2nd' (prime) gear in the multispeed tranny is ONLY for downshifts from high gear (3rd -to- 2nd')
With this in mind, one must also consider WHICH second gear is having a problem.
This not REALLY a 4-speed xmission in the sense of going thru 4 gears to get to high (3rd). Instead, there are 2 second gears which are used under differeing conditions. (UPSHIFT or DOWNSHIFT)
Just got back from celebration dinner. Picked up our new 2001 dakota quad cab today. It had to be the most painless truck/car purchase we've ever made. We knew what we wanted when we ordered it 9/6/00 with all the options. Red (flagship) 4X4 V8 4.7 with taupe leather and all the goodies. Paid dealer invoice plus 250.00 less two rebates. One for the $1000.00 and the 300.00 business rebate. Did purchase the extended warranty for 6 yrs. 72,000 miles for $765.00. Sure glad it showed up a few days late for the double rebate. It drives like a dream. So happy with the purchase. No problems with alignment.
I'm interested in how the dual-range tranny works simply out of curiousity... Am I correct in assuming from your post that the tranny may shift through BOTH second gear ranges under acceleration?
The one time I drove the 4.7, I really wasn't taking note of HOW the tranny shifted... Though I will say that it seemed to shift more smoothly than my 3-sp /w/ overdrive.
Went scouting for deer today. I live in the Sonoran Desert of Arizona and I drove over miles of rocky / sandy cactus strwen roads searching for the elusive western mule deer. The QC did awesome. had to use 4 low once climbing a large rock out cropping leadinf to a water hole I knew about. Crawled right up. I was most impressed on the way down. The gearing held it back nicely. never touchd the brakes and I have an automatic. Of course it was filthy when I got home. My wife had a coronary, All washed up now though. It is a '01 QC, 4.7, auto, 3.55, bright white, on 31 x 10.5-15 pirelli scorpians. ( a truly awesome tire for the desert south west ) I off road quite a bit while hunting and will keep you updated on my Quad adventures!!
IOWA -- I'll second your notion! Things have clearly changed since 6 months ago, when most of us were trying to figure out HOW to get one and WHEN we might get it, much less WHAT we'd pay for it... After much research and working 2 dealers against one another, I managed $250 under dealer invoice (no rebate/incentive) on my QC, and was extatic! These days, that's no big deal!
Still, I'm not sorry. It's unquestionably the best of the last three 4-by's I've had.
(towcrazy2) I can only reference the DC service manual which has a description of operation... My interpretation is that only 1st 2nd and 3rd are used during normal acceleration. After that, A kickdown will use 2' (2nd prime) and 3rd forevermore. (slowing down enough to fall back into 1st will 'reset' the xmission to again use 2nd on the upshift.)
The 'smoothness' you refer to is perhaps due to the advanced design of this xmission that dynamically refines the shift points and engagement time based on immediate conditions.
In reference to the engine braking performance of the Dakota... I recall a magazine article that was testing trucks under REAL 4X4 conditions and the downhill 'slowness' test was taken by the Dakota. In fact the Dakota was FAR better than any of the others test vehicles...ie Ranger, S10/15, Toy, Nissan...etc.
As I recall, the Dakota xfer case was attributed to this ability of the Dakota.... Do you have the FLOOR-MOUNTED or the new pushbutton Xfer case?
Well, I test drove the '01 QC (4.7 AWD 4spd auto) and ST back-to-back this weekend in rainy weather. My hands down preference is the QC. In terms of looks, it seemed more mature and multidimensional than the ST -- at least for my age (mid 30's). The ST might have suited me better in my college days, but I wouldn't feel as comfortable using it for play AND work. The QC's interior was classier and roomier than the ST's IMHO. And while the ST's power was certainly adequate, I found the QC's 4.7 engine to be smoother and, of course, much more powerful. Also, I found that the QC has a better turning radius than the ST's. That power backwindow and the bed on the ST are pretty cool, though.
On the subject of AWD, I liked the way it functioned in the rain. I purposely floored the QC around the corners etc. to see how well it would grip (on empty roads and moderate speeds, of course) and I never could get it going sideways. This system is similar to my '94 Montero SR in AWD mode -- it splits the torque front and back at a set rate (50/50 on the Montero) and prevents the front wheels from binding while making turns on dry surfaces (like the parking garage). I always use the AWD mode on my Montero in the rain b/c I find it has far superior grip off the line and around corners than while in 2WD mode. I've only had to use 4WD Hi-Lock in the mountains in heavy snow, and I've never had the pleasure of using 4WD Low-Lock with the rear differentials locked (the Montero has a rear differential airlock). Still, I'm not 100% convinced AWD is worth the wear and tear on the vehicle. At least my Montero has a 2WD option also, which I admittedly use 90% of the time. (Actually, the Montero's 4WD system is one of the best I've seen: 2WD-AWD-4WDHiLock-4WDLowLock-4WDLowLock with Rear diff lock. Plus, varying ABS brake programing for each mode -- of course you pay about $10k more for the Montero and never really use all of this capability unless you live in the Outback or something).
The only thing I didn't like about the QC vs. ST was the noticable tendency of the QC to bounce more over rough terrain than the ST. I'm wondering if any one knows if this can be solved using different shocks -- like the stiffer ones found on the R/T Dakota or Durango. I prefer a rougher ride with less bounce to the stock set up on the QC.
Lastly, the dealer mentioned something about a Mopar "cold air induction system" that he claims can add more HP and increase gas mileage. Has anyone heard about this and/or have any 1st hand experience with this system? Is it similar to a K&N filter type device?
My thanks again to everyone who's given his/her input on this subject and my apologies for the long post.
re misaligned bed and /or rear axle. u both posted have problems like my self with this situation just wondering what your option is and what course of action if any are u taking? on my 01 q/c the right rear wheel sticks out approx one inch farther then left. not sure yet if this be caused by misaligned bed or rear axle be offset to one side more then the other...
For those interested, 2001 Dodge Dakota Brochures are now available through www.4adodge.com
Too bad I didn't have one before I bought a QC, but I'll have one now! Something to keep with my window sticker...just for kicks. Hey, if I'm going to drool, I'd rather do it a brochure instead of when I'm driving it! That wouldn't look cool. ;-)
Not sure where you measured, but here's what I did.
With all the messages about people's rearends being off center (on their TRUCKS!), I checked the offset on my rear axle.
To check rearend centering, I measured from the frame to one of the outer most grooves on the tire. My rearend is offset a 1/4" to the driver's side. I'm unsure how accurate that measurement would be, but one would think if all tire molds were made the same, that should work. In any case, it's not something I'm going to worry about.
To check the bed, I measured from the front edge of the bed to the rear door seam, right at the door handle. My box is within 1/8" there. One could also measure from the frame (same place you measured for the rearend) to the edge of the wheelwell. That should give you an idea of what's off where.
There have been others that have been worse and I'm sure some better. Please let us know what you find out and how you resolve your situation.
i measured from the inner fender wheel against bed,to outer most tread groove edge left was 10 1/2inch and right 11 1/2 inch. i also measured from frame side rails just in front of both l and r tires and found as u did about a 1/4 diff nothing to worry about (i think). what confuses me is all seams where bed meets cab looks lined up same spacing. so i wonder how bed could be misaligned if seams match same spacing unless rear most portion of bed is able to be adjusted with out disturbing the bed to cab seams and dementions?
So you think your box may be more of a rhomboid than a rectangle?
Maybe try cross-measuring the box, corner to corner, at the top of the rails. With the right combination of measurements being "within manufacturing tolerance", something could end up way out of wack. (Whatever "wack" is.) :-)
I follow where you're measuring but an inch seems like a lot. Maybe I'll check mine closer. Visually, it looks ok.
Any rear end or box offset measurements should be make relative to the FRAME rails. In fact if you crawl under the rig you will see symmetrical holes and bed marks which in my case are centered about the frame. ie the left side is the same as the right side which corresponds to the edge of the fender distance from the frame being equal on both sides. In my case the box is perfectly centered on the frame.(within +-1/16 inch). But thats not true of the wheels about the frame. See my post 956. Keep after it. I know how to fix it but havn't time yet. Got to run.
ust got back form dropping off truck. looked a tservice managers demo 2000 and right rear tire sticks out more then left also several on lot all 2000 with t&h pkg so i think its a axle off set thing all q/c have maybe some more then others. i don't want any one moving my rear end (: ha) due to the possible rear end wine ( red or blush)any i think i just live with it off set since i've seen several others this way unless a tsb or recall comes about or tire wear probs etc.. also noticed right rear door not sitting flush along upper side near back of cab.(dealer says no problem minor latch adjustment needed), also noticed front grill not seated properly against rubber seal along right side of fender,needs frnt end alignment drifts right,also paint along front edge across front of fender and hood seems to have a rough look but not to the tough also doesnot seem as clear(paint tech will look and adv).. should be ready this evening i'll post out come..
Holy Cow! Trying to re-program factory default settings certainly deosn't seem to work according to the owner's manual.
I can successfully re-program the one button push to unlock all doors or the driver's side door but I can't seem to get the horn honk to stop or re-activate my auto door locks when I reach 15 MPH. My truck actually did this Auto door lock)when I got it but somehow when trying to set the one button push, it stopped working.
Has anybody else figured out any other ways to do this? By the way, The manual says you'll here a chime when programming is complete..sometimes I hear a small "beep" and other times I don't hear anything. I have a 2001.
Do you folks turn the key all the way to off or do you just back it down one notch from the "on" position. From what I can tell there is an "off" then there is a section that just activates the one set of small lights (I think it's either odometer or PRNDSL) then the very next notch is "on" with the chimes and everything. I guess the question is, what is Off and what is On?
One last thing, sorry this is so long. I noticed when you cycle from on to off three times my odometer reading will change from the mileage to "P COMPLETE" has anyone else seen this? What does it mean, "Programming Complete"? Funny thing is it happens on the third cycle not the fourth. Any insights would be helpful.
To all QC 4.4L engine owners. When I first got my truck, I checked the engine oil and found it to read about 1 quart over full or the top of the safe mark, from the factory. Overfilling a crankcase has always made me nervous, so I drained off about a quart. At 2000 miles dealer did the first complimentary oil change. Once again, way over top line of safe mark. Manual calls for 6 qts. Asked dealer mechanic and he said overfilling Dodge engines is not a problem for Dodge engines, as unlike GM & Ford the pan is not pressurized. Now at 5400 miles I just did my own oil change as I normally do, and 5 quarts fills this engine right to the top of the safe mark. So I wonder if the pan in the 4.7 jeep was different than the Dodge which might explain the error in the manual. Also started on synth oil at this change. Sorry for the long post. Mine is a 2000 for reference, any 01 owners find the same thing? Just curious. Nick
(stnick) I have asked this VERY question in the past. I have the same delema... in my case, my dealer has ALWAYS put 5 quarts in it. When I pointed out that both the owners manual and the shop manual call for 6quarts, I was told that the dipstick is the gauge they go by... NOT ANY BOOKS! (3 changes allready)
Your theory about a different oilpan on the DAK than was on the JGC is a new twist I had not considerd.
Perhaps some of the other readers will share their experiences with oil changes on the 4.7L V8 hemi
Well just to be awkward - I usually put in 5 1/2 - and I don't spill THAT much.
You are right in that 6 puts it over the top, but that said I don't think that it is that big a deal. When the vehicles come from the factory they have 6 quarts, and as anyone can testify the oil pressure guage is still in the white - near the high side of the white (a good thing), but still in the white. With less than 6 quarts the pressure drops slightly under load, and somewhat more significantly at idle - but still stays in the white.
Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about putting 6 quarts in, I wouldn't worry about 5, but I would be going nearer 6 as the engine gets older and less 'tight'.
As another curve ball, some owners have reported putting 5 quarts in, running it for a few minutes and then topping off - I am assuming that this is different from just starting and shutting down the engine during the change to get the oil moving around the system (including the filter).
The mechanic that told you the Dodge system is different than Ford or GM is blowing smoke you know where. There are two type of sump systems, wet and dry. All manufacturers use a wet sump(oil pan) which catches the oil and then pumps it into the upper parts of the engine where it flows back down to the sump. The only pressure in the sump is blowby from the pistons. This pressure is relieved by the EGR valve. The problem with overfilling an engine with oil is that the crankshaft is above the oil level. If the oil level is high enough to reach the crank shaft, it will cause foaming and the foaming can destroy an engine.
steve234 - So, which do you think is the correct level - by dipstick or by the book. Could either the book have a misprint or could the dipstick not be marked correctly? We were always told in the Army never to overfill your fluids (checked by dipstick level)and always got dinged big time when such were found on maintenance inspections. This habit has carried over into private life, too, on all my motor equipment that have dipsticks. Seems to me that the book and the dipstick should agree and I would be very nervous about engine damage due to either underfilling or overfilling. Especially, if warranty questions are ever raised.
[hope this isn't duplicated, was some funny java when I tried to post] *******************************************
My last 3 vehicles (Audi 5000, Mazda 929, Chev PU) all had electric door locks/windows. Actually, the Audi had a vacuum system! Anyway, they have ALL caused problems eventually. My new 01 QC was ordered with MANUAL door locks and I'm happy as a lark. Seems SOMETIMES, going back to the simple is just that, simple. I didn't get the heated/electric side mirrors either nor the split rear window (will NEVER have another one of those). The $ I saved on those things allowed me to get a better music system and LSD and 16in wheels for the 4x4 so I'm pleased. Have almost 1K on the sweetie now and havn't found a single thing that needs a visit to the dealer to repair. My big '92 Chev 2500 4x4 was same-same, never went back for that usual foot-long list of problems new cars seem to always have.
I'm embaressed to ask this but somebody please explain to me how to just get outside air in my 2000 QC my '89 dak has a nice little vent handle. But it seems to me no matter what I do in the 2000 I still have AC. What am I missing?
Too many stories of burnt out electric window motors (excessively high replacement price), door locks which open and close at will, security systems which go crazy.
Would you list how your truck is equipped? engine size, which transmission, sport or slt, rear axle ratio, locking axle, etc.
I will probably order in the near future and appreciate any and all experiences and advice.
So far I'm thinking about the following: 2001 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7L engine slt 2 tone paint medium bronze / bright silver t&h package hd service group cloth high back bucket seats skid plates anti-spin differential axle trailer tow group body side moulding fog lamps engine block heater raz radio am/fm/cd/cassette steering wheel mounted audio controls leather wrapped steering wheel
3.55 axle or 3.92 axle???? not sure yet
5 speed tranny or automatic?? not sure yet
sliding rear window?? not sure yet, maybe a power after market one?
I will most likely get a cap for the bed.
What do you other quad owners have? cap or tonneau cover?
The Shop manual calls for 6 quarts for the 4.7l engine. I change my own oil and my level after changing oil, starting the engine, (to top off the oil filter) and allowing a suitable amount of time for the oil to drain back into the crankcase is right at the full mark. If the manual calls for 6 quarts I would be much more concerned about being one quart low right from the gitgo than making the level match the dipstick. Based on the reports of transmission dip sticks poping out of the tube on 4.7l and another report a of dipstick rubbing on the hood of a 3.9l makes DC dipstick science suspect in my eyes. I'm too particular about my Quad to allow someone else to change my oil especially after some of the horror stories I've seen posted about Jiffy Lube and the like. I even fill the oil filter 3/4 full of oil before I install it to prevent the momentary lack of lubrication while a dry filter fills with oil. (I tried filling the filter all the way full but it runs down your arm ). Rick
(steve234) You Are correct about the WET SUMP but the EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recurculation ) has NOTHING to do with the oil!
Instead, it is the PCV valve ( Positive Crankcase Ventilation ) that maintains a VACUUM within the crankcase. The PCV valve was introduced to reduce emissions by sucking in and burning the noxious gasses that form in the crankcase. A secondary benefit from the PCV valve is that oil leaks are reduced. Any small holes in the oil gaskets would not leak because the system sucks. (NOT NASTY LANGUAGE!) This is one emissions - control device that was a WIN WIN.... (no bad side-effects and reduced oil-leaks too!)
BTW... the EGR valve actually routes exhaust gases back into the intake under mid-throttle conditions. It is another emissions control device but this one can make an engine run like crap.
This was discussed almost 8 months ago but, if my memmory hasn't failed me--there is only one setting that truely disables the AC. It is the Vent position (4th from the OFF position). All other positions either: 1) activate the AC full time(such as Position 1-MaxAC, 2 or Defrost), or; 2)Activate the AC if the conditions are correct (I assume temperature).
Recheck the Owners manual. I believe this information to be documented there.
Does anybody know if the rear-window defroster option comes as a tinted rear window?? I want a tinted rear window, and a defroster, and I DON'T want a slider (can't reach the darned things anyway). The regular window isn't tinted, so I was wondering if the defroster option was a win-win situation...
I was just parked next to a F150QC tonight and alothough I haven't gotten my QC yet I know the dimensions of most of the vehicle especially the rear cargo area. I pulled out my tape measure and much to my surprise the cargo beds seem to be exactly the same size. Both measure 5'3". I peeked into the rear window and was surprised to see the seat back folded down. There was almost no storage space. The QC has much more room in the back. It was a bit wider than the QC but I believe it isn't nearly as comfortable. The cost of the F150QC to the QC has got to be several thousand more and for what. The QC is also much quieter inside also.
what is an F150QC? is that the new F150 Supercrew with four doors? Or just an extended cab F150? Either way, you're right - the Dak is a nicer vehicle. But, it does not have more rear storage space in the cab than the Supercrew. Misses by a inch or so.
Sorry to revisit this topic yet another time but I'm having trouble deciding on my bedliner needs. I saw QC the other day with the Line-X applied over the rails - wasn't "crazy" about the appearance and when I asked the guy if he liked it he said it's pretty good but that he could've waited until he was ready to sell the truck to apply the Line-x and saved himself a few hundred dollars upfront. I'm not crazy about the permanence aspect of the Line-X and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on the Mopar bed mat or if they make a bed tray for the QC. Are the Mopar mats really easy to clean and reposition once taken out. Also, do rubber bed mats suffer from potential rust like plastic bedliners? Need some guidance here guys!
OK guys, I have changed my own oil all my driving years, and I refuse to accept this oil fill discrepancy as anything that should have to be tolerated in this day and age. Either the manual is misprinted or the 4.7 has the wrong dip stick, or DC put a pan on the Dodge that is "Different" than whatever. The point is that this is important. The stick, and manual, and all advise over the years has been to never overfill your crankcase. I checked my level tonight when I got home, after setting for 45 minutes and the level was slightly above the top line of the safe box. And that was with just 5 Qts and a Purolator pure one filter. I just feel that something this simple and basic shouldn't be an issue, and someone at DC should get us a straight answer. So far my dealer hasn't heard from DC.
I believe there are two positions that compressor doesn't run. Vent, arrow to head position, and heat, arrow to feet pos. Also if ambient temps below approx 45 deg, compressor won't engage in any position. Nite All..
This may have been covered in another topic board, but what are the group's reccomendations for a paint sealer to protect a brand new Quad? I have the bright silver and I've already noticed more than a few nicks down to the primer indicating D/C's paint quality may not be the best. I want to protect the truck from more nicks and paint cuts - how best to proceed?
Yes, the rear window defroster option is a tinted window. We just got our 2001 quad cab last friday and ordered the rear defroster, as we too don't care to have the slider. It is tinted.
I got a Mopar Mat put into my QC because I figured if I ever got a Line-X I could throw the mat over it to soften things up and keep things from slideing around. Anyway, I have found it easy to clean and reposition if you take it out. I usually just hold up one end and hose it, then hold up the other to get the stuff the rest of the way out. Very happy with it.
Asta- in a word, Don't. This was covered in detail on the accessories board #293-298. the best is wait a couple months and use a good wax. Bitterooter- well Boo beat me to it, boy he's got fast fingers. Here is a link to a detailed description of checking status. "http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html"
I ordered/received the following: 4x4 5 speed lsd standard rear end 16in wheels tilt/cruise, leather wheel middle stereo (cd without changer) skid plates bronze
(MANUAL door locks/side mirrors; no alarm thing [no one pays the slightest attention to them anyway]; manual windows)
This truck is for my wife (I have my Chev 2500 4x4) so didn't need the tow or heavy duty stuff. She loves a 5sp and we drive over 5 miles of gravel road daily. This is also our long distance vehicle (tilt/cruise). I've had too much trouble with the sliding rear window in past trucks to ever want another besides the ease of breaking into them by thieves.
Good luck and ordering is a blast! Then comes the frustration of waiting for build and delivery but you get the truck YOU want, not something off the lot.
ONLY negative thing about the QC so far is the ridiculously difficult task of releasing the wench cable retainer from the spare tire; have to lower tire to the ground then RAISE up one side and reach UNDER to turn retainer sideways and slip through wheel hub hole. My chev's retainer is rectangular (not round) and with tire laying on ground I can easily reach in from the TOP and remove the cable. This was a real ergonomics/human factors design mistake by DC.
Comments
ASTA -- Because yours is a 1>2 shift problem under light acceleration, it sounds like a problem with the dual-range second gear in that tranny... As though the tranny can't "decide" which range it should shift to.
My understanding is that under light acceleration, it should shift from first into a higher (lower numerical) second gear range. Under heavy acceleration, it should shift from first to a lower (higher numerical) second gear range. That MAY be the problem.
HOWEVER... I'm far from qualified to venture an accurate guess, since I have the 5.9 mated to a different (old-style) tranny in my '00 QC. The vast majority of contributors here have the 4.7 with the same auto as you... Perhaps they'll give you a sense for how that 1>2 shift SHOULD be working under different engine loads.
Now I see that it has gone up to $2000.Any thing I can do about it now? Any ideas?
Leigh
With this in mind, one must also consider WHICH second gear is having a problem.
This not REALLY a 4-speed xmission in the sense of going thru 4 gears to get to high (3rd). Instead, there are 2 second gears which are used under differeing conditions. (UPSHIFT or DOWNSHIFT)
The one time I drove the 4.7, I really wasn't taking note of HOW the tranny shifted... Though I will say that it seemed to shift more smoothly than my 3-sp /w/ overdrive.
a QC (like I did) TWO days before the increase when they were still at $750!
Still, I'm not sorry. It's unquestionably the best of the last three 4-by's I've had.
The 'smoothness' you refer to is perhaps due to the advanced design of this xmission that dynamically refines the shift points and engagement time based on immediate conditions.
In reference to the engine braking performance of the Dakota... I recall a magazine article that was testing trucks under REAL 4X4 conditions and the downhill 'slowness' test was taken by the Dakota. In fact the Dakota was FAR better than any of the others test vehicles...ie Ranger, S10/15, Toy, Nissan...etc.
As I recall, the Dakota xfer case was attributed to this ability of the Dakota.... Do you have the FLOOR-MOUNTED or the new pushbutton Xfer case?
On the subject of AWD, I liked the way it functioned in the rain. I purposely floored the QC around the corners etc. to see how well it would grip (on empty roads and moderate speeds, of course) and I never could get it going sideways. This system is similar to my '94 Montero SR in AWD mode -- it splits the torque front and back at a set rate (50/50 on the Montero) and prevents the front wheels from binding while making turns on dry surfaces (like the parking garage). I always use the AWD mode on my Montero in the rain b/c I find it has far superior grip off the line and around corners than while in 2WD mode. I've only had to use 4WD Hi-Lock in the mountains in heavy snow, and I've never had the pleasure of using 4WD Low-Lock with the rear differentials locked (the Montero has a rear differential airlock). Still, I'm not 100% convinced AWD is worth the wear and tear on the vehicle. At least my Montero has a 2WD option also, which I admittedly use 90% of the time. (Actually, the Montero's 4WD system is one of the best I've seen: 2WD-AWD-4WDHiLock-4WDLowLock-4WDLowLock with Rear diff lock. Plus, varying ABS brake programing for each mode -- of course you pay about $10k more for the Montero and never really use all of this capability unless you live in the Outback or something).
The only thing I didn't like about the QC vs. ST was the noticable tendency of the QC to bounce more over rough terrain than the ST. I'm wondering if any one knows if this can be solved using different shocks -- like the stiffer ones found on the R/T Dakota or Durango. I prefer a rougher ride with less bounce to the stock set up on the QC.
Lastly, the dealer mentioned something about a Mopar "cold air induction system" that he claims can add more HP and increase gas mileage. Has anyone heard about this and/or have any 1st hand experience with this system? Is it similar to a K&N filter type device?
My thanks again to everyone who's given his/her input on this subject and my apologies for the long post.
Too bad I didn't have one before I bought a QC, but I'll have one now! Something to keep with my window sticker...just for kicks. Hey, if I'm going to drool, I'd rather do it a brochure instead of when I'm driving it! That wouldn't look cool. ;-)
fat_fenders
Not sure where you measured, but here's what I did.
With all the messages about people's rearends being off center (on their TRUCKS!), I checked the offset on my rear axle.
To check rearend centering, I measured from the frame to one of the outer most grooves on the tire. My rearend is offset a 1/4" to the driver's side. I'm unsure how accurate that measurement would be, but one would think if all tire molds were made the same, that should work. In any case, it's not something I'm going to worry about.
To check the bed, I measured from the front edge of the bed to the rear door seam, right at the door handle. My box is within 1/8" there. One could also measure from the frame (same place you measured for the rearend) to the edge of the wheelwell. That should give you an idea of what's off where.
There have been others that have been worse and I'm sure some better. Please let us know what you find out and how you resolve your situation.
fat_fenders
Maybe try cross-measuring the box, corner to corner, at the top of the rails. With the right combination of measurements being "within manufacturing tolerance", something could end up way out of wack. (Whatever "wack" is.) :-)
I follow where you're measuring but an inch seems like a lot. Maybe I'll check mine closer. Visually, it looks ok.
fat_fenders
I can successfully re-program the one button push to unlock all doors or the driver's side door but I can't seem to get the horn honk to stop or re-activate my auto door locks when I reach 15 MPH. My truck actually did this Auto door lock)when I got it but somehow when trying to set the one button push, it stopped working.
Has anybody else figured out any other ways to do this? By the way, The manual says you'll here a chime when programming is complete..sometimes I hear a small "beep" and other times I don't hear anything. I have a 2001.
Do you folks turn the key all the way to off or do you just back it down one notch from the "on" position. From what I can tell there is an "off" then there is a section that just activates the one set of small lights (I think it's either odometer or PRNDSL) then the very next notch is "on" with the chimes and everything. I guess the question is, what is Off and what is On?
One last thing, sorry this is so long. I noticed when you cycle from on to off three times my odometer reading will change from the mileage to "P COMPLETE" has anyone else seen this? What does it mean, "Programming Complete"? Funny thing is it happens on the third cycle not the fourth. Any insights would be helpful.
Steve
Your theory about a different oilpan on the DAK than was on the JGC is a new twist I had not considerd.
Perhaps some of the other readers will share their experiences with oil changes on the 4.7L V8 hemi
You are right in that 6 puts it over the top, but that said I don't think that it is that big a deal. When the vehicles come from the factory they have 6 quarts, and as anyone can testify the oil pressure guage is still in the white - near the high side of the white (a good thing), but still in the white. With less than 6 quarts the pressure drops slightly under load, and somewhat more significantly at idle - but still stays in the white.
Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about putting 6 quarts in, I wouldn't worry about 5, but I would be going nearer 6 as the engine gets older and less 'tight'.
As another curve ball, some owners have reported putting 5 quarts in, running it for a few minutes and then topping off - I am assuming that this is different from just starting and shutting down the engine during the change to get the oil moving around the system (including the filter).
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My last 3 vehicles (Audi 5000, Mazda 929, Chev PU) all had electric door locks/windows. Actually, the Audi had a vacuum system! Anyway, they have ALL caused problems eventually. My new 01 QC was ordered with MANUAL door locks and I'm happy as a lark. Seems SOMETIMES, going back to the simple is just that, simple. I didn't get the heated/electric side mirrors either nor the split rear window (will NEVER have another one of those). The $ I saved on those things allowed me to get a better music system and LSD and 16in wheels for the 4x4 so I'm pleased. Have almost 1K on the sweetie now and havn't found a single thing that needs a visit to the dealer to repair. My big '92 Chev 2500 4x4 was same-same, never went back for that usual foot-long list of problems new cars seem to always have.
Happy QC-ing
Thanks
Larry
Too many stories of burnt out electric window motors (excessively high replacement price), door locks which open and close at will, security systems which go crazy.
Would you list how your truck is equipped?
engine size, which transmission, sport or slt, rear axle ratio, locking axle, etc.
I will probably order in the near future and appreciate any and all experiences and advice.
So far I'm thinking about the following:
2001 Dakota Quad Cab
4.7L engine
slt
2 tone paint
medium bronze / bright silver
t&h package
hd service group
cloth high back bucket seats
skid plates
anti-spin differential axle
trailer tow group
body side moulding
fog lamps
engine block heater
raz radio am/fm/cd/cassette
steering wheel mounted audio controls
leather wrapped steering wheel
3.55 axle or 3.92 axle???? not sure yet
5 speed tranny or automatic?? not sure yet
sliding rear window?? not sure yet, maybe a power after market one?
I will most likely get a cap for the bed.
What do you other quad owners have? cap or tonneau cover?
happy trucking
I'm too particular about my Quad to allow someone else to change my oil especially after some of the horror stories I've seen posted about Jiffy Lube and the like. I even fill the oil filter 3/4 full of oil before I install it to prevent the momentary lack of lubrication while a dry filter fills with oil. (I tried filling the filter all the way full but it runs down your arm ). Rick
Instead, it is the PCV valve ( Positive Crankcase Ventilation ) that maintains a VACUUM within the crankcase. The PCV valve was introduced to reduce emissions by sucking in and burning the noxious gasses that form in the crankcase. A secondary benefit from the PCV valve is that oil leaks are reduced. Any small holes in the oil gaskets would not leak because the system sucks. (NOT NASTY LANGUAGE!) This is one emissions - control device that was a WIN WIN.... (no bad side-effects and reduced oil-leaks too!)
BTW... the EGR valve actually routes exhaust gases back into the intake under mid-throttle conditions. It is another emissions control device but this one can make an engine run like crap.
1) activate the AC full time(such as Position 1-MaxAC, 2 or Defrost), or;
2)Activate the AC if the conditions are correct (I assume temperature).
Recheck the Owners manual. I believe this information to be documented there.
Sorry to revisit this topic yet another time but I'm having trouble deciding on my bedliner needs. I saw QC the other day with the Line-X applied over the rails - wasn't "crazy" about the appearance and when I asked the guy if he liked it he said it's pretty good but that he could've waited until he was ready to sell the truck to apply the Line-x and saved himself a few hundred dollars upfront. I'm not crazy about the permanence aspect of the Line-X and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on the Mopar bed mat or if they make a bed tray for the QC. Are the Mopar mats really easy to clean and reposition once taken out. Also, do rubber bed mats suffer from potential rust like plastic bedliners?
Need some guidance here guys!
Dave.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to check the status of my Dakota I have ordered here on the net? Thank you for all your help.
Bookitty
Bitterooter- well Boo beat me to it, boy he's got fast fingers. Here is a link to a detailed description of checking status.
"http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html"
4x4
5 speed
lsd
standard rear end
16in wheels
tilt/cruise, leather wheel
middle stereo (cd without changer)
skid plates
bronze
(MANUAL door locks/side mirrors; no alarm thing [no one pays the slightest attention to them anyway]; manual windows)
This truck is for my wife (I have my Chev 2500 4x4) so didn't need the tow or heavy duty stuff. She loves a 5sp and we drive over 5 miles of gravel road daily. This is also our long distance vehicle (tilt/cruise). I've had too much trouble with the sliding rear window in past trucks to ever want another besides the ease of breaking into them by thieves.
Good luck and ordering is a blast! Then comes the frustration of waiting for build and delivery but you get the truck YOU want, not something off the lot.
ONLY negative thing about the QC so far is the ridiculously difficult task of releasing the wench cable retainer from the spare tire; have to lower tire to the ground then RAISE up one side and reach UNDER to turn retainer sideways and slip through wheel hub hole. My chev's retainer is rectangular (not round) and with tire laying on ground I can easily reach in from the TOP and remove the cable. This was a real ergonomics/human factors design mistake by DC.