Zaino Car Care Experiences

chytraeus · April 2001

I was convinced by the various reviews I have read to buy the Zaino system for my brand new SUV. I have had the SUV only four weeks. I wanted Zaino to be the first product I put on it. I have some questions and I would REALLY appreciate your advice.

First, what to use when washing the vehicle? Lamb's wool? Sponge? Rag? I am spooked about scratching or putting swirls in it.

Second, claying . . . I've never used clay before or done it and frankly am scared to death. Sal told me I should clay right away, even on a brand new finish. Any advice/tips? I really would like to know how EXACTLY to clay my vehicle.

Beyond that, I might have some more questions, but for now, that's it.

Thanks!

joebob6 · April 2001

"First, what to use when washing the vehicle?" I use 100% cotton hand size towels(not wash cloth size), other alternatives are cotton chenille wash mit or cotton chenille covered sponge.

"Second, claying . . . I've never used clay before or done it and frankly am scared to death. Sal told me I should clay right away, even on a brand new finish. Any advice/tips?"
Read the Zaino website directions, faq, tips, etc..
Use back and forth motions, keep areas being clayed well lubricated(use 1-2 capfuls of Z7 mixed with water in a large spray bottle). Throw out clay if it is dropped on ground, knead the clay a few times while using it to expose clean surface. Clay does take some work but is worth doing.

daverose · April 2001

Use distilled water with the Zaino soap as your clay lubricant. Keep the surface wet so adhereing of the clay does not pull it out of your hand

mbdriver · April 2001

Why distilled water with Z-7 as a clay lubricant? Is this to avoid water spots? Seems like an overkill to me but, then again, so does claying. (I don't think you'll ever succeed in convincing me!)

joebob6 · April 2001

Using distilled water is probably unnecessary...unless you have hard mineral water. Its not like distilled water is expensive anyway.

As far as clay being overkill it really depends on the surface. Before using it I would take a good hard look at the finish looking for rail dust and industrial fallout. You may need to use a magnifying glass as some colors hide the filings better than others. If your surface is as smooth as you like and there is nothing for the clay to remove, then by all means skip the claying step.

mbdriver · April 2001

I'm probably not as fussy as many about the finish on my car (my wife would disagree), so if I ever clay, I'll likely use tap water -- our water here isn't all that hard. But I'm still curious about the reason daverose uses distilled water (and Z-7) as a clay lubricant. He's extremely knowledgeable about Zaino, and I respect his judgment.

As for claying, I took delivery of my brilliant silver MB last April after the dealer did an excellent job of detailing it. The finish was gorgeous and super-smooth. I did not clay, but I immediately did the blue Dawn wash, Z-1 and Z-2 and have added numerous additional coats of Z-2, plus one more Z-1/Z-2 a month or two ago. I also frequently use Z-6. The car is garaged and washed regularly, and the paint is still super-smooth!

And if I ever used a magnifying glass to check for contaminants on the finish, I'm sure my wife would have me committed! Bottom line: I'm happy as a clam with the shine and the durability of Zaino. I'm regularly asked what I use on the car to keep the deep "wet look" reflectiveness of the metallic paint.

BTW, if ever I acquire a car with a dark colored finish, I'd almost certainly clay to prepare the surface for Zaino. I'm not real anti-clay -- just a bit lazy!

tonychrys · April 2001

I have a black 2001 Lexus and I emailed Sal about whether to use Z3 or Z2. I did his test with spme Mcquire's Cleaner Wax (very lightly abrasive) I ad around the house and could not detect any color coming off. Do I need to use something a little more abrasive to truly test for clearcoat?

Thanks.

tonychrys · April 2001

After washing my car today and using cleaner wax to spot remove watermarks, bug debris, etc., I'm pretty much convinced that you can get the same effect of smoothing the surface with lightly abrasive wax as well as clay. After all, clay is just "knocking down" microscopic structures above the overall paint surface, it has to be abrasive to do it. I'm an electrical engineer and use a penicl eraser to clean/polish metal contacts because of it's soft abrasivity (a word?).

Anybody got any info to explain why clay is better than wax for smoothing the surface?

joe166 · April 2001

the reason is that it is not supposed to be abrasive, but works by clinging to contaminants and pulling them out. That would seem to be kinder to the finish and that is why it won't fix some stains that are not contaminants, but are flaws in the paint. Some things are better dealt with by using a mild abrasive, and I am sure that a mild abrasive, properly used, will make the finish as clean as, or perhaps even more clean. I have not found the clay that I used to be the slightest bit abrasive, but I know there are some that combine some abrasive materials with clay for a more heavy duty clean up. Zaino, Mothers and Meguiars SAY they have no abrasive in them (I have used Mothers and Meguiars, but don't have the patience to wait for Zaino's since I usually decide to clay a day or so before I actually do it) but work on the premise that they pick up contaminants and that is why you have to keep kneading the clay to keep exposing a new surface and push contaminants to the inside.

dovey1 · April 2001

I finally got to use my Zaino-waited months for the rain to stop. Two weeks ago, I used Dawn, Clay, z-7 wash, Z1 and Z5 followed by Z6. Today I washed again, did Z5 and Z6. The first problem is one area of the paint looked a little "orange peel" like and after all the treatments, I can now see it actually has little bumps. Well, the tops of all the little bumps now have no paint and look like a bunch of little white spots! There are about 50 of them in a one square foot area right in the front top side. It is very noticeable to me. Did the Zaino take off the paint? My van is new and until I did Zaino, I never noticed this(and would have for sure)-HELP! If it is safe to keep using, what do I do about the spots? Next question is: I don't really understand how people use z6 "in between" washes-doesn't it just grind the new dirt into the finish? Do you do it before or after putting each z polish on? Honestly, my car does not look all that different-it was just as shiny before-and no stripped off paint white spots. I only drive about 1 hour a day and the rest of the time it is garaged. What am I missing?-how many more coats do you think I'll need before it looks as good as everyone here says? I still can see some minor little scratches so I figured I'd use about 3 more coats of z5 and then switch to z2. Also, it is bright red and now it has these little dark splotches in places-what is this and how do I get it off? To be fair, it is a lot easier than old stuff. I also washed and did "NuFinish" on 2 other cars today-didn't want to share my Z(LOL)-they look just as shiny but it was so much harder and so much more work-I really want this Z to work for me so any hints, advice, and answers are most welcome-Thanks in advance!

theworm · April 2001

I have an 00 Black GS. No clear on the 00 black onyx (sorry, dunno on the 01). I used toothpaste on the door jam. Make sure it's clean, first, else you might just get dirt. It was abrasive enough

pjyoung · April 2001

I don't think that the Z5 caused the "Bumps". I think they may have been there all along. I know that the first time I put it on my car, I thought the paint was pretty flawless. As I covered the car with Z1 and Z2, I noticed many more flaws in the paint job than I ever saw before - only because I was focusing on each panel for an extended period of time...they were there all along.

I only use Z6 after washing the car. There's enough construction going on around here that there isn't any other way to get all the dust off before putting Z6 on.

Z2 is the really glossy product - Z5 has some, but it is designed more as a "swirl remover". It still shines nicely, but you should see the dramatic results after a coat or two of Z2.

pblevine · April 2001

Re: washing cloth: I use a small hand towel (100% white cotton made in USA), but a real sponge or cloth which will not scratch is OK. If in doubt, use the questionable cloth on only one section and then examine for swirls.

re: Small Bumps: On a new car? That has to be a manufacturing defect worthy of Dealer fixup or intervention of some kind. The give away here is that there are raised areas below the paint. The sheet metal surface was defective prior to painting at the factory. Or at least that is what your posting seems to indicate. Let us know what the dealer says.

bluebeast · April 2001

One piece of advice that may have been lost a few hundred posts ago is: after dawning and claying, this would be the best time to do any paint chip touch ups !!!!!

bdev · April 2001

... for washing a car? I've been using one for years, very soft bristles. I feel that it is gentler on the surface since it seems to just glide over the top and lift the dirt. Plus, I can cover large surfaces in little time.I've had it so long, I don't know where it came from, but it is especially for automobiles.
I think Grott's sells a similar one.

Also, use the California water blade for drying and touch-up with the famous white 100% cotton USA towel. Again, super fast and seems to leave the surface perfect!

98monte_ls · April 2001

Do you guys Zaino the alloy wheels too? or just use old fashioned wax there? it sure is tough to get around all the spokes and crevices!

I have painted alloy wheels that looks like a silver metallic paint('01 Camaro) and wonder what the best protection is against brake dust.

sddlw · April 2001

Yup, wheels too. It really helps to keep the brake dust from bonding to the alloy.

pblevine · April 2001

In fact, you should use an additional layer of Z2 just for those wheels. They get much more exposure to brake dust.

pjyoung · April 2001

Z looks great on chrome wheels, too!

joe166 · April 2001

I am not being critical or flaming, but please explain how a polymer works on a metal surface with no paint. I put Z on the little chrome I have on my car because it is easier to do so than not, but I thought polymers "bonded" to the paint on the car to give it that deep shine. If that is so, how does it work on chrome or alloy surfaces? I could be all wet as to how polymers work since all I really know is that they DO work and that they are not hard to put on, but help me out here.

tonychrys · April 2001

I don't know about how it works on chrome, but most alloy wheels are in fact clearcoated. They are on both of my new cars.

pjyoung · April 2001

Don't know how it bonds, but I do know that they shine really nice, and they survived the salt/snow/grime/ and weeks of no washing over this past winter.

luck11 · April 2001

Sorry for responding so late. I'm referencing some comments about 30 posts back re dry-time.

In my case, I had the Easter long-weekend + one day off to apply. I generally waited approximately 12 hours between coats. In some Zaino tips which I printed out last year, it indicates that if you apply the Zaino the night before, and leave it on over night, you can wipe off in the morning and immediately re-apply. This is what I did with every coat. I applied early am (ie. 8 or 9 am), left the Z on all day, then wiped-off after my son went to bed (ie around 9 pm) and re-applied another coat and left it on 'till next morning. Note that my garage is extremely clean, about 22 feet wide by 27 feet long allowing plenty of space to work, and is heated. Humidity was relatively low. Needless to say, my Outback sat in my garage for a few days.

Results: FANTASTIC!!! Wet look is amazing...many people have commented. Time will tell if I applied too quickly...ie by how long the shine/wet look lasts. If so....I'll just apply another coat. With the claying out the way....another coat is a breeze.

PS. Just picked up a California water blade to save drying time. I know some of you take it for a spin around the block, but that would leave spots with the dust from new home construction around my house.

Luck11.

mbdriver · April 2001

luck11 -- from your post on dry time, you probably are okay with the multiple coats of Z at 12 hour intervals, i.e., your garage is heated, probably bone dry with low relative humidity, and the fact that your car never left the garage. I'd be interested to learn if Sal Zaino agrees.

joe166 · April 2001

OK, I buy the clear coat on some alloy wheels, but the fact that chrome wheels shine and that they "survived the salt/snow/grime" is not all that scientific, is it? For all we know, vegetable oil or Crisco applied to the wheels might have done better. I don't have a problem with doing it because it takes such a short time, but I was just wondering how it could possibly bond to bare metal.

pjyoung · April 2001

But then again, what sells you on Zaino, the science or the shine?

pblevine · April 2001

To expand upon pjyoung's post: it works WELL. For a more technical explaination of WELL, email Sal Zaino (refer to their website at www.zainobros.com).

daverose · April 2001

Vegetable oil and Crisco are likely to have attracted salt and dirt.

Sal's email address is sal@zainobros.com

tonychrys · April 2001

..lettuce and croutons, and you have a tasty salad.

fastdriver · April 2001

WOW! So many doubting Thomas's! Try it, you'll like it! ;-))

fastdriver

http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/fastdriver2_99

deuce56 · April 2001

I have a Black Extang tonneau cover and I'm wondering if I should use Zaino on it. If yes, should I use Z-9, -10, -14, or -16? I just mailed my first order and I ordered Z-10 and Z-16 along with the other stuff. Also, can anyone tell me what the "turn-around time" is on an order?

daverose · April 2001

Your turnaround should not be more than 10 days.

pblevine · April 2001

In the past, I've been able to remove tar and tree sap from my Z2 treated car using Z7 Car Wash. I then used motor oil to loosen any remaining tar/sap deposits and washed again with Z7. But this year, the small road tar spots on my lower side panels (rocker panels) have "evolved" into a tougher breed. I think they married some residual road salt residue. Any suggestions?

jjccrv · April 2001

Use wd-40 to remove the tar and sap or a clay bar. I would re-dawn the areas i used the wd-40 as it is probably oil based and then rezaino the affected areas.

robr2 · April 2001

If clay doesn't work (didn't for me on pine pitch), use rubbing alcohol on a towel. This will also remove the Z hence you need to Z1 that area.

Robert

daverose · April 2001

You could also soak it with Avon Skin-So-Soft.

koury · April 2001

Do the above suggestions - rubbing alchohol, wd-40, Avon - also apply to tar spots, as well as brown discoloration, on alloy wheels? Any feedback would be appreciated.

robr2 · April 2001

Is there anything that stuff can't do??? Never thought of using it on the car. I laugh when I see it for sale in hunting/fishing shops as a bug repellant. Camo, guns, and Avon - what a combination!!

koury - give it a try. I may try the alcohol and SSS on my alloys. They have brown tar and brake dust marks I can't clay because my rims are textured. I don't think either could hurt the alloys/clear coat - after all you use the stuff on your body.

Good Luck

pblevine · April 2001

Thanks all! I'll try the WD40 this weekend. At first I kinda thought the Avon reference was a put on. But now I've just got to ask: What's in it? And where can I get some? After all, if it doesn't work, I can always give it to my wife.

daverose · April 2001

Avon Skin-So-Soft, in its original form, is a bath oil, but folks have found, as Robr2 alludes, many other uses for it. The most famous is probably the mosquito (and other insect?) repellant, then there's clothing spot treatment, gum removal, tar and bird dropping cleaning. My wife's been an Avon rep for years; she has a single-spaced, smallish size type, full sheet listing all its uses, and while that seems like a whole lot, some of them are only small variations of the others. The only "official" Avon recognition of those other uses is the insect repellant, which they now have as a specifically labelled product in a spray bottle. You could probably find Avon listed in the telephone book or yellow pages; I know that Avon is increasing their on-line presence, so see if you get a hit with 'avon.com" or do a search.

lmc18 · April 2001

I am going to Z my car for the first time since mid-November (BMW it is still beading and it is outside 24/7). I will be adding a coat of Z1 as it has been a while (last Z1 in August) but wasn't sure if I needed to Dawn before applying the Z1 & Z2.

I am also considering claying...the steps are Dawn, Clay, Z7, Z1, Z2 right?

Tax

lmc18 · April 2001

I neglected to mention that someone had keyed my car recently and a detail shop attempted to buff out the scratches - (without success unfortunately) - but used a wax called Ardex on the driver side of my car. I'm assuming this will be a problem if I Z over it right?

Does anyone know anything about Ardex - the detailer claims its "the best" and only professionals use it (cannot be bought by individuals in a store or otherwise).

Thx

bretfraz · April 2001

Here's a link about Ardex:

http://www.autoaccents.qpg.com/

They're kinda like Pro and other suppliers who sell mostly to car washes and detail shops. It's not consumer stuff.

daverose · April 2001

You only need to use Dawn on the keyed/buffed/waxed area to remove the wax. But I wouldn't bother to Dawn just that area; either just do your entire car with it, or you might start extending to areas you might not have Zainoed before, such as door, hood, and trunk openings and the edges of the doors, hood, and trunk lid, the wheels (and tires), the underside of your hood and trunk lids, the walls of your engine compartment, and painted metal parts in the engine. Thoroughly rinse and "wipe rinse" those areas you cannot hose, then, if you did not Dawn wash the "usual" exterior sufaces, use Z7 to wash the rest of the car, and then clay, etc., as you planned.

deuce56 · April 2001

I haven't seen a response to my previous ? so I'll re-post: I have a Black Extang tonneau cover and I'm wondering if I should use Zaino on it. If yes, should I use Z-9, -10, -14, or -16? I just mailed my first order and I ordered Z-10 and Z-16 along with the other stuff.
Thanks for any help you offer.

joe166 · April 2001

Well, I don't know why others didn't answer, but I didn't because I don't have any idea what a "Black Extang" tonneau cover is. I know what a tonneau cover is, and I know what "black" is, but if this is some sort of vinyl or synthetic cover I don't think (just my opinion) that anyone is ducking your question, but if you look at the description of the products it pretty much answers your questions. The z-14 and z-16 say they are not for vinyl interiors or vinyl tops. Can you use them? Sure. Should you use them? Why? As to z-9 and z-10, they are excellent products, but as they are designed for leather I do not use them on my vinyl pieces as I use cheaper products designed for vinyl. It seems to me that the materials designed to feed leather are wasted on vinyl which has such different qualities. On the other hand, of course you can use them, it might be kind of over kill. If Extang is something else, you are on your own.

fshxprt · April 2001

I have an E320 and am considering a Colgan Bra for freeway use on trips to minimize paint chips from flying stones, etc. Anyone have any experience with this product? My paint has Z1 and Z2 and is better than off the show room floor.

joe166 · April 2001

for lots of reasons, but the main one as it refers to automobiles is that every time I have had one, regardless of the top quality that I bought, it would do more damage to the paint than the danger I was trying to avoid. Even with a good one, with a soft cloth backing caused problems with staying wet and rubbed off some paint in an area that fortunately was not particularly visible. It just seems to me that this is like putting protective covers on your living room sofa--you are covering up what you bought because you thought it was pretty. If your intention is only to put it on for specific trips, I hope it is a LOT easier to put on and take off than the one I used was. I put it on with that intention which went the way of lots of good intentions.

kenyee · April 2001

joe166:
The newer invisible bras are much better than the old black/cloth ones IMHO; e.g., in the Northeast, you have to take norman bras off in the winter when they sand the roads like crazy..just when you need it the most :-P
The only negative I know of is that they are too expensive because they're very labor intensive...

tonychrys · April 2001

One distributor: http://www.xpel.com/

In the end, they all use the same 3M developed material.

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