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Comments
I've had my new car for about a month now. These last two weekends, I was gonna Z, but weather didn't permit. So I took a "work-at-home" day today, and Z'ed my silver Chrysler Sebring LXi convertible. (I told my wife I "treated" my car, cause if I told her I "Z'ed" it, she'd think I was a lunatic or in some sort of cult!)
I did a Dawn wash (45 min.), clay (1 hr.), Z7 wash (45 min.), Z1 (30 min.), and Z5 (30 min.). I did it all in the shade, but have now moved the car into the sun, and it will hopefully dry in 1 hour. There's still time left in the day for a Z2 and another Z5.
Steve
On returning to the car an hour later, there was little or no haze. In only a very few spots could I see some dry, trusted Z5.
I wiped it all up but I think tomorrow's Z2/Z5 application is going to have to be a little bit heavier.
Steve
I am interested in the post by "theweissman" because I am going to be starting with a Silver Jetta than a Silver Audi A8 and then a Silver Lexus SC430. Doing them in the order of inportance, yes we seem to like Silver cars in the family, but they are all very different silvers. I am considering buying a black car just to get the max results that I keep hearing about on this board.
So I am anxious to hear what you think of the results you got on the Sebring. I am also very wary of using too much product....Seems to be a great board here...
also, dont forget to go in the right directions- side panels, you go vertical on the application, and flat panels (trunk, roof , hood) you go front to back.
thia may help you see more product on the application when it hazes. DONT get anxious and put too much on - you will be unhappy. It should go on so thin that you almost can't see it.
Congrads! homer2000ssei has some very good pointers. You want thin but not none. The only thing I can add is that I use overlapping strokes. I make a mental note of where I started the last stroke so that even if my next stroke is a little off, it will still be within range. And I'll bet Sal built in that 24 hour "cure" time to keep spouse complaints down.
lex430:
On 'next years' setup, you don't have to use Dawn again. That was only to remove any residual wax prior to you first coat of Z1.
Also, how hard do I push on the clay when I am rubbing it on the surface? Do I have to dry each area after I clay it or can I just get the whole car wet, clay the whole car while keeping wet, and then wash again (with dawn)? I really, really hate drying my car so I would like to only do it once in this process if possible!
One more thing, I wish I had gotten zome of the z-7 carwash in my first order. If anyone in the Johnson County, KS area (pjyoung?) is going to be placing an order soon let me know and perhaps I can tack on an extra bottle of z-7 to it?
The new Zaino product will be an accelerative additive that can be mixed
with Z-2, Z-3 or Z-5....
Below are just a few of the improvements....
1. When mixed as per directions, you will not need to apply Z-1...
2. It will reduce the drying time, thus making the polish more user friendly in damp environments...
3. It will increase the gloss factor and extend the durability level..
4. It will have an instant cure time, so you can immediately apply multiple coats.. No more waiting between coats...
5. And more........
Sounds good to me! Increased gloss factor and multiple coats in one day! No release date yet, but soon I think.
fastdriver
As for doing the whole car - and then washing - thats what I did. I was indoors though - so that might have made it easier - but do avoid direct sunlight. I figured since it was a water/was mix - there was no harm in leaving on car as i did the whole thing.
I did take a clean Royal velvet towel and lightly wipe off excess when I was done a panel though.
as far as how hard to push the clay - hard is NOT the word we wanna talk about here. using two fingers, apply enough pressure to not let it fall to the ground when doing a door. you will get the feel as soon as you run into something the clay has just removed - the "snag" will pop off and you continue rubbing. its almost a case of "just the weight of your fingers laying on the clay" as far as pressure - just a tad more.
good luck
As you move the clay back and forth over an area you will hear a slight wisking sound. Also you will get a little bit of feeling feedback light you are moving something very slippery of a surface that has a few abrasions on it. As you move it back and forth the abrasive feeling and sound will start to fade. When you don't hear wisking or feel any more feedback you know your done with that area and are ready to move onto the next. It can be a tedious proccess as it can take a minute or two to clean one strip. Especially on the hood (I recommend you start there for a feeling of what the grit is like). You will discover on other parts of your car there is almost no grit and after a few passes you can move on. Before attacking the car with the clay try to get as much off as you can with the car wash and elbow grease.
One of the keys to the use of the bar is the right amount of lube. Too much lube and your just slipping around, two little and it drags and streaks. You will develop a feel for the right amount to get the gritty wisking noise.
Another skill is holding on to that bar. It can get to be a slippery sucker! Putting a piece of very clean plastic down beneath the area you are working on is not a bad idea (just make sure you don't get it dirty by stepping on it with dirty shoes or whatnot). I know most people think "I'll never drop the clay" but after you have been stroking your car for 45 minutes the task tends to get tedious and mind numbing. Your focus will wander and the bar will get very slippery. Imagine you have an $9 egg with special cleaning properties. You drop it and its broken (plus you have to get another one).
I don't see why other car washes wouldn't work with clay. When I first started I used Mothers clay bar and their Showtime gold for lube (came as a kit). I actually prefer the idea of using car wash as a lube and the Zaino bars are cheaper than the mothers. You get two bars in a pack. I figure each bar is good for two uses.
I have been having a detail shop work on my car a few times in recent weeks to try to buff out some key scratches that some idiot decorated my drivers side with. In doing so, he always washed and then applied a wax and used a power buffer on the panels. I have gotten to the point where I don't think he will be able to get any more of them out and I want to start Zing again. I also want to clay my car this time around.
I realize I have to get his wax off the car first, but my question is should I Dawn, Clay, Z7, Z1, Z5, Z2 or will the clay remove the wax without having to use Dawn? Also will the clay or the Dawn remove the Zaino that is underneath his wax and on the other sections of my car?
Thanks for your help!
Don't get me wrong, and I was just kidding! I love my car, and I Zed it for the first time this past weekend, it's easier than traditional wax to apply and take off, but the number of repetitions needed for multiple coats are quite a task for someone that used to wash their car once per month, and each takes about 2 hours max.
I like the results, I think it does have an additional layer of shine to it, but I will consider paying someone to do it next time, provided they know what they're doing, so any volunteers?
But I gotta say, the sparkle in the car's silver metallic paint has never shined (shone?) righter (more brightly?)! It WAS worth the effort.
Steve
Escape-Central.com
http://www.escape-central.com
I was in and at the All Fords at Carlisle PA this past weekend and searched for a Zaino dealer!! I didn't find one!! There was one at the Corvette Show last year and thought for sure there'd be one at the Ford Show. I was asked many times what I used on my Laser Red Mustang GT and I would show them my Zaino and try and explain the steps!! Maybe I should ask Sal if he'd like another dealer??
I have made a web page with a couple of pictures. I'm not sure how to post a link, but I'll try:
http://members.home.net/steveweiss/sebring.htm <Jr clear=left>
A couple hours each? THIS I can't understand, even on a full size car such as yours. It takes me only 20 minutes or less to completely cover our Accord or Solara with Z2, and 10 minutes to buff off after it dries. If it takes you 2 hours, something is wrong.
theweissman -
NICE job on a great looking car!
Photo folks - Notice the pic was taken at dusk, there are no hard shadows, and the car's detials are clear.
Well done, and absolutely great pictures too. The size and angle of those pics really shows the shine. I only wish my car was new and I'd also started out with Zaino.
automophile,
Hey, come on. 2 hours is just fine for a first time. A labor of love. I take about 45 minutes due to my need to frequently step back and look at my "art". In fact, if you take your time, it actually seems like fun. The only part that gives me a pain is the bottom of the rocker panels. You really have to get down, and still you can't see what you're doing too well. And I also do the inside door well, under the hood (ie: engine / wheel coverings), and painted surfaces in the rear trunk lips. And besides, getting up and down a lot at my age can be a bit of an effort. I do it, but I take my time.
Reason being is that the first wash will get all the big stuff, grease, dirt and dust. The clay is to rub off the wax and bonded surface contaminants. I would guess it would also zap the existing layer of Zaino (if there is any left after all the detailing you had done.) I have also heard that alchohal and simple green will remove Zaino.
The second wash is to remove any clay steaks and lubricant residue. Then start with Z1 and move up.
http://www.bimmer.org/3series/messages/
Me thinks this be the better board. By far.
Hand Wash - 10 minutes
Rinse - 2-3 minutes
Complete dry - 20-30 minutes
Apply Z5 or 2 - 10-15 minutes
wait - temp.dependant - average 30-60 minutes
removal 30-45 minutes (it could be faster but why rush a labour of love) I too keep standing back to admire.
Spray Z6 - 10 minutes
Tires - polish rims and apply tire gloss - 10-15 minutes
can you find a better way for me to spend my time ?
YES- the lower rocker panels are a bear, BUT - my neighbor (bless him) gave me this little wheeled mechanic's stool. You just sit on it and scoot around the car doing the bottom half. No more back aches or other problems, and the built-in tray holds your supplies!
BTW, I've been using Z6 on my windows. On the way to work today, I noticed that there appears to be a slight film on the right side of my windshield. Sal had warned me against doing this, but the 'rain-x' effect was too tempting. Anyway, I think the film is due to my later Windex washing of the window when there was a lot of pollen deposited on it. Any thoughts?
Z-ealous fan!
If you've never put Z on yet, you have to take the wax off first, whether it's the underlying coat of wax or this "instant detailer" you have been using. Taking wax off is easy: just wash with Dawn (kitchen dish soap) instead of car wash soap.
This and all other needed directions are on the zainobros.com pages, as well as in messages above.
You have to take off the wax first because it will yellow and grow hazy under the Z, and eventually the true color of the paint will not show through. Z will never yellow, so you don't want to put a clear finish over a yellow one.
Take your time, follow the directions; it's not hard work at all, and it's well worth it.
Use the "Blue" Dawn! I know how you feel, but you really have to strip all that wax off. Please review post 1934 by squidd99 above. In addition, the Z1 Lok must be able to bond with the actual clear coat or your later Z2 layers will not have anything to hold them to the surface. I'm sure there are lot of other products that will eliminate the wax but Blue Dawn is about the best for this specific task. Its strong enough to strip wax without damaging your clear coat. And with lots of water, it will drain off completely.
kthomp100:
This has nothing to do with Zaino, but if you are concerned about that initial orange peel, you should have it documented and acknowledged by your dealer.
Use the blue Dawn, as mentioned above, and don't worry about taking off the wax. You are going to a better place.
Although I had similar reservations at first, I eventually had enough confidence with Z to follow these directions with my new black Lexus SC430, and the results are spectacular.
And remember, once the initial applications are made, which means washing with Dawn, Z1 and Z2, Z6, and then a few more coats of Z5 and/or Z2 (always ending with Z2) which took me about a week or so, because you should let the coats of Z2 or Z5 "cure" for 24 hours, it will stay on the car and shine like the noonday sun for 6 months or more -- up to a year for a garaged car. And even then a renewal is nothing more than Z1 & Z2, which is fast and easy. So in the long run, it's a lot easier AND MUCH MORE BETTER than wax.
You will be pleased.
This is too good. Maybe I'll do that second coat after all, and the car will grow some kind of force field!
Steve
The more coats the better. The shine keeps getting wetter and wetter looking. Click on my name above and you can see some Z pics in my profile.
fastdriver
just curious, do you know if your black SC430 has clearcoat on it? I noticed you used Z2 on your car, but according to my research, lexus black cars do not have clearcoats, so I am using Z3 instead of Z2.
just a thought, btw, I have a black GS430.
I use it for bird droppings and such before I use my Z6. A little water will do the trick on most dirt, pollen, and droppings. But using Z6 on an undusted car tends to seal in some of the existing dirt. I now only use Z6 on a clean surface. You could dust and then use Z6.
lex: Are you sure that the GS430 doesn't have a clear coat? That sounds strange, why would a manufacturer do that?
I too have a black Lexus and would love a definitive answer on this. I think I'll call Lexus corporate.
And not for nothing, but the Z site/Sal aren't very lucid in their answers. I bought both Z2 (clearcoat) and Z3 (non-clearcoat) in anticipation that I would need both for my different vehicles. I have yet to get a reasonable explanation of what the difference is between Z2 and Z3, and why you need two different products. Anyone?
tonychrys:
My understanding is that Z3 has some additional ingredients that helps with protection and keeping the paint's life, (I know, very vague). bottom line, if you use Z3 on clear-coated car, or vice verse, it should not be a problem
Thanks.
I wish we also had a solution for people who park by feel. Someone (just today) gently touched my rear bumper while parking. Thank god they were at least gentle. But my Honda's rear bumper now has some very small while pock marks. They're almost too small for touch up paint application. Any thoughts?
I get really upset when I see people don't give a damn about others, and open their car doors onto the car next to them SEVERAL times so that they can get into their own cars easier!
Wondering if I can try pound by feel of my new sledge hammer on their hood...,
I talked to Sal before I bought it and he said get the Z2, so I did.
I think the diff is that Z3 has a different chemical makeup that helps it bond to paint as oppossed to clear coat.
I just assumed that Lexus would put a clearcoat on all cars, and Sal seemed to agree, but I never did the test described on the Z web site, and it's too late now.
I think the "thin clearcoat" answer above makes a lot of sense, which is a good reason to Z a new black Lexus as soon as you get it, so that the Z can bond to the clearcoat and enhance it.
Now there is a 1/8" long scratch, and a couple of inches away from it, a little dot, in (not on) the paint on my hood. Only three days after Z'ing my brand new car.
New Jersey is just too darn crowded.
Shall I tip a tiny, tiny bit of paint in there with a wooden toothpick, maybe? It'll never be the same.
Steve
It happened to me in the first week or two.
Use the toothpick technique a few times, and pretty soon it will be pretty hard to see and you'll forget about it.
. . . .until you wash it again.