Zaino Car Care Experiences

tmart · June 2005

Asac1, using Blue Dawn is basicly a one time deal to remove wax already on the car before applying the Z. Dawn is definitely NOT to be used as your normal wash.

tmart · June 2005

Jsamson, the process is not as complicated as it sounds. Claying is optional. So, all that' s really needed is a Blue Dawn wash to remove the Meguiar's, dry, then apply the ZFX/Z2. At this point you're done for six months, except for washing, then all that's needed is another coat of ZFX/Z2. The Z6 spray is really optional too. With my gold color, I truly can't see any difference whether I spray or not. The problem with Zaino is applying and removing the haze is SO EASY, you'll want to apply multiple coats! You can then stop when you no longer see any improvement. With my gold, it toped off around 4 coats.

bretfraz · June 2005

I notice a diff in the gloss after I use Z8 but the real advantage of Z8 is in its durability. Z6 is pretty much gone after a rainstorm or a week or so. Z8 lasts 2-3 weeks for me and will hold up if caught out in the rain.

Z6 is like your typical QD - best used to lightly clean the car, removing fingerprints, light dust, bird doo, etc. It leaves a nice shine but doesn't last.

Z8 is not as good a cleaner as Z6 but leaves a glossier shine and will last longer on the paint.

Two similar products that are designed to do different things. I use Z8 after every wash and now only use Z6 for light cleaning and wipe downs.

koury · June 2005

Just ordered the new Z-PC Fusion Paint Cleaner - according to Zaino, it's a water-based product that competes with products like 3M Swirl Remover. It was suggested to use an orbital polisher, maybe Porter Cable? Can anyone suggest a good one, and where to buy?

Thanks in advance!

tmart · June 2005

Koury, just read about the new Z-PC on the Zaino site. Did NOT see where it was suggested to use an orbital polisher. To quote: "And best of all, it works equally well when used by hand or machine, making it as versatile as it is effective!"

koury · June 2005

tmart - I spoke to Sal, he recommended it, but also said applying by hand works well. I'm looking for the easy way out - I have two Lincolns, an LS and a Navigator, so lots of work if done by hand. But he did say to use an orbital.

kheintz1 · June 2005

I spritz some Z-6 on the applicator pad each time I add more ZXF-activated Z-5 or Z-2 polish to the pad. Obviously, this method allows Z-6 to blend with the polishes and become incorporated into the finish during the application of the polishes, rather than the far more labor-intensive method of applying a coat of Z-6 between each successive coat of polish. Mixing Z-6 with the polishes also makes the polishes go further and go on/come off more easily.

Regarding Dawn Blue, I feel it's wise to use Dawn as the first wash when the vehicle is clayed and polished every 6 months. Follow up with a 2nd wash using Zaino's car wash soap, then proceed to the applying the polishes.

If you're not interested in claying the vehicle, using Dawn for the first wash will do the "heavy lifting" of surface contaminants. After washing with Dawn, no need to dry the vehicle-- just wash it a 2nd time with Zaino's car wash soap, then dry the vehicle and proceed with applying the polishes.

For those who may be leary of using the claybars, I would urge you to give them a try, because the results are simply amazing. However, make no mistake-- if you have a light colored vehicle in which brake dust and other hard-to-remove contaminants are visible and embedded in the clearcoat, the claybar is the best and maybe the only way to remove this stuff, but it will require plenty of elbow grease. I own a white SUV, and I find claying to be hard work. Look at it as being not only a good aerobic workout, but also one of the best things you can do for your vehicle's finish.

bretfraz · June 2005

I've used it by hand and machine and it works great with either. It's a rather mild abrasive so serious paint issues will need a polish with more bite to get good results. Z-PC is a good follow up to more aggressive polishes but works fine on its own.

As for PC's, Lowes sells the 7336 for $109 but you need a backing plate and pads to go with it. Autogeek is selling a nice PC kit with all the basic accessories. Detailers Paradise also sells a nice kit. Both kits are in the $170-200 range.

koury · June 2005

bretfraz - I've seen your past posts about the Porter Cable 7424, and it looks like that's still available from several websites. Do you still recommend it? Also, what kind of pad is recommended - the ones that come with it, or do I buy a specific pad for polishing?

bretfraz · June 2005

For most car nuts, the 7424 and its variants is the machine to have. Only the 7424 comes with a pad (and it ain't that great of a pad). All other models do not include a pad.

At the very least you want a polishing pad and a finishing pad. The polishing pad is more aggressive and will help remove swirls, scratches, etc. The finishing pad is good for mild cleaners and polishes, even Z2 or Z5 use.

Buying a PC kit is a good value for beginners. A couple nice kits are, link title

And this one: link title

All you need from here are a couple of polishes and you'll be ready to work.

Hope all this helps!

koury · June 2005

Great info, thanks bretfraz. Excuse the novice questions about orbitals, but I've seen several pads on different sites - yellow, orange, white, grey, etc. - all with varying degrees of bite for polishing. Are the colors considered "standard" depending on what you're trying to accomplish? I need to remove some heavy swirl marks and don't know what pad to use.

bretfraz · June 2005

Each mfr uses their own colors to denote pad "bite". There is some commonality between mfrs but no standards or anything like that.

Knowing what pad to use is part of the "art" of polishing paint. You have several variables at work; pad aggressiveness, polish aggressiveness, polisher speed, polisher pressure, and the amount of time you work the paint. Throw in paint condition and hardness/softness, and its a challenge to know exactly what combo is best for a particular situation.

My advice for beginners is to buy a few polishes and pads and learn how to use the machine properly, then expand your pad and polish inventory if you want. The kits I linked are great for starters because they include the basics.

If you just want a couple of pads to start with, check out your local auto body supply stores for Meguiar's pads. I use them a lot and get great results. Meguiar's offers only 3 pad types so it's real simple - maroon color for cutting (most aggressive), yellow for polishing (sort of an all purpose pad), and white for finishing (use with light polishes and liquid waxes). A couple yellow pads and one or two whites will be fine for starters. Meguiar's pads usually run $10-15 each.

Coastal Tool offers a nice basic PC kit, if you don't want all the pads the other kits offer. Coastal Tool PC Bonus Kit

I bought my PC from Coastal; their service is excellent. So, $120 for the Coastal kit plus maybe $30-40 for new pads and $20-30 for some polishes.....$200 should get you started polishing with no probs.

Let me know if you have more questions.

koury · June 2005

This is really good stuff, thanks much bretfraz. I was actually on properautocare's site today, and one other step that they talk about is compounding to remove swirls rather than hide them. I planned on using the new Z-PC to remove swirls - I assume this acts as a polish - but do you think the extra step of compounding is necessary? I have a 5 year old, black Lincoln LS, so the swirls are prominent, as well as other scratches.

I'll be ordering the PC today based on your recommendation.

bretfraz · June 2005

Try it first and see how it works for you. Play with the machine and the polish on a small section of the car that's easy to reach, like the trunk. Experiment with speeds and pressure and buffing time. Divide the trunk (or whereever) into small sections and focus on them to get a feel for the machine.

The LS will prolly need some pretty aggressive polishing in order to remove all the swirls and bring out the shine. What polishes do you have or are you buying beside Z-PC?

koury · June 2005

I really hadn't thought about buying anything other than the Z-PC - I was hoping that would do the trick. Your suggestion is good - I could experiment on the trunk - so maybe I try one side with the Z-PC, the other with a different polish combined with the Z-PC? What do you think?

bretfraz · June 2005

Sounds like a good plan to start with. If you are looking for a nice store-bought polish, check out the new Mothers Power Polish. It's a bit more aggressive than Z-PC and is designed for machine use. Pep Boys sells it as do other retailers.

Have fun with the PC!

koury · June 2005

I ordered the kit from autogeek as well as Maguire's Medallion Paint Cleaner, figured I'll do half the trunk with just ZPC, the other with the Maguire's/ZPC combo and see the difference.

Thanks for all the help!

another_person · June 2005

could someone try to explain to me why you don't need to wax your car if you use zanio's. I mean the products are car polishes, and aren't you suppose to put on a wax after you polish your car to seal/protech the finish? My friend put zanio on my car for the first time, and he tried to explain it to me, but I'm a little more confused now then before.

another_person · June 2005

I ment to say "why no wax", not "way no wax"

robr2 · June 2005

Zaino is a polish and a polymer protectant. Wax is a natural protectant.

The difference is that wax typically breaks down faster than a polymer and needs more reapplication.

kheintz1 · June 2005

Automotive "wax"usually means carnauba wax, which is a natural product dervied from a Brazilian palm. Carnauba wax has a number of major disadvantages when applied to automotive finishes.

For example, because carnauba is a natural product, it is very prone to oxidation and yellowing. And, like most any natural wax, carnauba will readily become either soft or brittle (eventually cracking) under the thermal stresses of seasonal weather conditions. Furthermore, natural wax forms only a very weak electrostatic attraction to an automotive finish, and it is therefore rather easily attacked and removed by everything from road-borne oils to automated car wash detergents. Also, natural wax is easily attacked by such common things as acid rain, bird droppings, tree sap, and gasoline dribbles at the fuel tank spout.

Because carnauba wax oxidizes, yellows, and softens over time, the old wax should be stripped off of the finish before a vehicle is rewaxed with a fresh application of carnauba. And, because automotive carnauba wax is a natural product, its shelf-life is rather limited, and old bottles or cans of this stuff sitting around in a garage, are prone to eventual chemical separation, oxidation, chemical breakdown, rancidity, etc.

On the other hand, excellent synthetic polymer, automotive polishes such as those made by Zaino, are superior to wax in every respect, although they do cost more than the archaic carnauba wax products. When used correctly, Zaino products (1) form an amazingly strong and highly protective bond with the underlying finish; (2) they greatly resist most environmental stresses with ease; (3) they do not require stripping between successive applications of Zaino polishes; (4) they have more extended shelf-lives.

mdx2006 · June 2005

Why is applying Zaino over wax a "No No"?

Can't I think of Zaino as another lay of protectant? What are the "issues/harm/disadvantage" of applying Zaino on top of wax?

robr2 · June 2005

Because wax oxidizes and breaks down and no longer sticks to the paint finish. The Zaino is designed to bond directly to paint - over wax it bonds to the wax and comes off as the wax breaks down.

If you are going to Z, take the time to strip the wax off by washing with Dawn dishwashing liquid and then apply the Z to the paint directly.

mdx2006 · June 2005

Thanks that makes excellent sense.

On a tangent, I have a paint sealant called "Touch of Class" from a company called
Cal-Tex Protective Coatings, Inc.. Anyone have any thoughts on apply Zaino on top of that sealant. I don't know all the details of that products (ie whether dawn will take that off).

ruking1 · June 2005

NO! The whole concept here is to bond the Zaino products with the paint. If you are concerned with multiple coats, Zaino fills the bill like no other in that multiple coats can be applied and do build up unlike wax products.

kheintz1 · June 2005

Cal-Tex's web site currently contains no useful information about their "Touch of Class" product line. (How much did you pay for this paint sealant?) At any rate (and unfortunately), the promotion of various "paint sealant" products by many automotive dealers continues to be yet another lucrative source of dealers' profits, often at the expense of unwary or misguided consumers. In my humble opinion, these various "paint sealant" enticements are best avoided, particularly if they require any type of mechanical buffing, etc.

These paint sealant products often include a variety of enticing claims, and they also often include a bottle of some type of rejuvinator or other such product claimed to restore and rejuvinate the sealant when applied every so often. When you run out of the rejuvinator, your dealer will surely be happy to sell you more.

My suggestion would be to figure out how to safely and completely remove the sealant if possible, then proceed with "Zaino'ing" the vehicle at your earliest convenience. If in doubt, contact Sal Zaino for advice before proceeding. Sal is very good about returning phone calls and emails, so don't hesitate to give him a shout if you have lingering questions and concerns.

grantlu · June 2005

After coming out of the rain, is it best to 1. let it dry and then QD? or 2. dry it immediately with a MF? or 3. spritz with a QD on wet car and wipe dry with MF? (assuming the car is clean).

koury · June 2005

So I took the plunge and bought the PC 7424 with a pad kit that included (2) white and (1) orange pad. I started with Meguire's Medallion Paint Cleaner (a compound, I think), then followed with Z-PC and two coats of Z2. Remember I have a 5 1/2 year old black LS, so the paint was in rough shape. Needless to say, I'm somewhat disappointed. I mean the shine is great, but still many swirl marks and spots that appear to be oxidation.

Here's what I did:

1) PC with the ORANGE pad and the Meguire's
2) PC with the WHITE pad and the Z-PC.

Should I have used a more aggressive pad with the paint cleaner? At one point I had it up to around 5 on the dial, but I think that may be too high. Any thoughts?

bretfraz · June 2005

That process should have made a nice dent in the paint flaws. Meg's Medallion paint polish is mostly a chemical cleaner with light abrasives. Sounds like you need a polish with more bite.

It's kinda hard to say which combination will deliver the results you want. You've got to test various products and pads to see what works best. Send me an email at "bretfraz@excite.com" and I'll mail you a couple samples of more aggressive polishes. Maybe one of them might be just what you need.

The PC takes some practice to master and every polish and pad combo has its own sweet spot, if you will. Personally I polish at 6 or close to it but use the machine where you're most comfortable.

koury · June 2005

Just e-mailed you...thanks

ljwalters1 · July 2005

Is Zaino's clay bar really better than othe brands? :confuse: I've heard that manmade clay bars are better than natural clay b/c they're easier to fold and work with, but once you get past that, are they all the same?

Also, can I use plain water as a lubricant? Water with a little car wash mixed in?

laurasdada · July 2005

Hi, LJ:

I'm actually responding to your post in the Non-Zaino forum as since you're not supposed to discuss Zaino over there...

I recognize you from the TL forums. I have an '05 Abyss Blue TL and just recently became a convert to Zaino. It really is great. I can't answer your clay bar question, but depending on the depth of your swirlies, Zaino Z5/ZFX might do the trick. I put two coats of Z5 on my TL followed by two coats of Z2. I appear to have no swirlies and some minor scratches, while not completely gone, have been reduced nicely by the Z5. Maybe a couple more coats of Z5 will take care of 'em.

Anyway, ordering from zainostore.com is easy and they email you the progress of your order. If you haven't, you should check out the website.

It's a bit of time to do multiple coats, but my car looks GOOD!!!

ljwalters1 · July 2005

Thanks. I have been on the Zaino site, and if I go that route, your suggestion is how I'll proceed. Do you use Z-6 inbetween coats? My only hesitations with Zaino is that the first time I try a product, I like to go to the store and physically see it and read the labels. Just a comfort thing I guess...

Thanks for your insights.

bretfraz · July 2005

Virtually all clay bars on the market are the same or very similar. There is no "natural" vs. "man made". The differences are plastic vs. elastic clay technology, although I think elastic clay is disappearing from the marketplace due to patent infringment. So pretty much all the clay products available are similar, with differences in color and cleaning/abrasiveness.

My suggestion is to buy clay based on price or favored vendor. Zaino clay works very well (as do many others) so if you prefer buying from Zaino, go for it.

At retail the two major brands are Clay Magic and Mothers. Both are excellent products and are good choices if you don't want to mail order clay.

robr2 · July 2005

My only hesitations with Zaino is that the first time I try a product, I like to go to the store and physically see it and read the labels. Just a comfort thing I guess...

The labels aren't exactly chock full of data and details. I don't have my Z with me, but IIRC there's nothing on the label that's not on the website.

tmart · July 2005

bottles. Read the website for product details, application, and the tips. Web ordering couldn't be easier, and delivery is really FAST. The old system was mail a check to NJ and wait a week or so. By online ordering, I HAVE received the product before my check would even get to NJ.

ljwalters1 · July 2005

Thank you.

laurasdada · July 2005

Yup, the website is much more informative than the labels, all you need to know is there and you can always call and talk to Sal!

Yes, it is recommended to use Z6 before you apply Z2 or Z5 to "lock in" enhanced gloss (and aid in ease of application, I believe). For my first order, I bought ZFX, Z2, Z5 and Z6. You can also use Z6 after washing to ehnance the gloss. I think it works, especially for darker colors like ours.

As yours is an '04, you may want to clay but it's not mandatory. And start with Z5 to deal with the swirlies. Use Dawn dishwash to wash/strip all old waxes and go to Zaino town!

If you decide to go this route, let us know what you think after you Zaino.

ljwalters1 · July 2005

I imagine it's much easier and faster to use an electric polisher (called a porter cable, right?), but I want to ask the forum for its opinion. Since I'm starting with "nothing," I have to go shopping - it's just a matter of whether I'll buy polishing pads to use by hand or with an electric polisher.

tmart · July 2005

To me, Zaino is so easy to apply and remove by hand, I don't really see how the PC could do it that much faster. Plus, I think you'd have to use a lot move Z. That said, I admit I've never used a PC so I could be wrong. Kinda like using a blower to dry the car. Works real good, but by the time I got the cord and blower out and ready to go, I could have almost half the car dried by hand, then everything has to be put back up. Just my 2 cents worth.

bretfraz · July 2005

I've done it a few times and it helps when working on a large vehicle. But on most cars, hand application is about as fast. Unless you already have the PC out and plugged in, ready to use.

The PC really excels at thin applications of product but the same can be done by hand, too. I guess the PC's advantage is in saving your arms and wrists, just like while polishing.

another_person · July 2005

I found that the PC is a lot more consistent then if you did it by hand and I also use a lot less when I use the PC (I can put about 5 coats of Z on to a land cruiser with a little less then half of a mixing bottle). I guess it's all up to personal preference, but I prefer the PC to just doing it by hand. autopia.org has a nice kit (~$180) if you're starting with "nothing". It comes with the polisher and a set of pads. it's a nice set of pads too, it comes with a velcro backing plate that makes swapping pads really easy and the pads are much better then the one the porter cable gives you with the polisher.

marko7 · July 2005

I have recently tried Zaino for the first time on a '98 Volvo and a '06 Infiniti M with good results. I tried claying only the Volvo and found this step overrated: a lot of work with little difference (there was hardly any residue retained by the bar because the car was well maintained with Meguiar's over the years). There is less resulting shine compared to Meguiar's Gold Class wax, although my main goal was finish protection, not the looks. Also, I found Z2 much more difficult to apply and remove than the Z5, which tends to be very slick (for example, compare how both products stick to the walls of the plastic mixing container).

Anyway, there is ample salt use on the icy roads in winter here. I am considering running the cars through an automatic touchless car wash of good quality, esp. to get rid of the salt/sand build-up in the undercarriage. On the 2006 Infiniti M35/45 discussion thread, there was a post about such a car wash having ruined a BMW finish protected by a Liquid Glass product.

Has anybody had a similar experience with a Zaino'ed car? Will it be safe to run my cars through a touchless car wash several times in winter, and re-apply fresh Z2 coats in the spring (of course, after the mandatory Z7 hand wash)?

brian_k · July 2005

I am intrigued by this discussion, but am wondering if others have seen much improvement on lighter colored cars? I specifically have a silver Audi A6. I am in downtown Chicago so it's not very convenient for me to wash and wax the car. Been bringing it to detail shops instead. Thanks.

laurasdada · July 2005

Zaino (or any good polish/wax) results are probably more dramatic on a darker color. Go to the Zaino website, they have pix of assorted cars/colors to at least give you an idea.

It does take some time to properly "Zaino" your car so you may have to find a friend in the 'burbs who has a hose and a driveway you can use for a bit...

bretfraz · July 2005

Especially metallics. Colors like silver are not very reflective, by nature. The metallics refract light more than reflect it so that kills any depth or richness. And shades of gray, while sophisticated and classy, are not deep, rich kind of colors. So any product that will improve reflectivity and gloss on silver is a benefit, IMO.

Most high quality waxes or sealants look good on black and red. But its colors like silver and beige that are a true test. I don't know of a more reflective product than Zaino Z2 Pro. It'll not only make the metallic flakes pop but it will bring out the best possible gloss in silver.

When I lived in downtown Chicago (111 E. Chestnut & 441 E. Erie), I used to drive out to Arlington Hts/Buffalo Grove to hand wash my car once a week at a real nice coin-op place. I'd either drive it back to my parking garage to polish & wax or do the work at the car wash. I was always able to find a power plug in the garage for my buffer and shop vac. But I like the "friend in the suburbs" idea even better. A full on detail only needs to be done a couple times per year; you can do regular maintenance at your place the rest of the time. Big City car care is a challenge but its not impossible. I did it for about 5 years.

aaargh · August 2005

This may not be in the right forum, but ...

I park my '04 Acura TL in a garage that leaks rusty water (picked up from the re-bar I would guess). This has left spots on my car that do not come out when washed in a car wash or even by hand. :mad:

I mentioned this to my apartment manager (I wanted him to pay for a detailing) and he told me Fantastik brand cleaner would do the trick. Will this damage my clear coat?

He also told me NOT to use Fantastik on German cars as their clear coat and paint are softer. :surprise:

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

kheintz1 · August 2005

I would email, or call, Sal Zaino, and ask his opinion regarding the safest way to remove the rust stains. That said, there is a product called CLR ( for calcium, lime, rust) that is effective for removing mineral stains from many household surfaces, but I have no idea if it might be safe for automotive finishes.

kcreature · August 2005

I have just purchased the Zaino products (ZFX, clay, Z2, Z6,and Z7) to apply to my new CR-V. My question is whether to put all this stuff, and effort, on the unpainted lower half (is that called cladding?). Also, do I have all I need? What is Z5 used for? It was my understanding that Z2 and Z5 were about the same.

Thanks for any input.

tmart · August 2005

Is the cladding smooth or rough? If smooth, I'd apply Z2 with ZFX. If rough, no. Don't think claying would be needed on the cladding regardless. Z5 is used to hide light swirling, spider-webbing, etc. Z2 doesn't have the "hiding" properties of Z5. When the swirls are gone, top off with Z2.

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