Just apply the sealant to the painted parts. On the cladding, you can use a water based dressing, a product like Stoner Trim Shine (avail at most parts stores) or nothing at all. This goes for the side rub strips and the roof rails too.
...but now about windows. I'm planning on using RainX, which has been wonderful in the past. I also use the washer fluid additive. How does Zaino handle that? It's not like I would spray the whole car with it (hopefully), but I'm sure a little will get on the Zaino finish.
Also, has anyone heard about using Club Soda to clean windows? I heard through a friend that firestations use it all the time.
I wouldn't use Rain-X. Used it once (not the washer additive) many years ago, and, when it got thin, the windows really streaked - until I'd put another coat on.
Do this... really clean your windows well (I use Sprayway glass cleaner, but you can also use vinegar in distilled water, and newspaper to rub/apply it. Really works well). Put some Z-2 on and then Z-6. You will get the "Rain-X effect" of the water streaking up your windshield, no wipers necessary.
I, too, have used RainX with none of the problems others have experienced, but haven't tried the washer additive. Zaino is tuff stuff so I don't think a little RainX would present a problem. I agree with Hammen2 concerning the Sprayway glass cleaner. It is fantastic stuff if you can find it. I've also heard using Z2 and Z6 gives good results, but haven't tried it. It may work as well as RainX, but don't think it would be as durable and way more expensive.
The clay is not that bad,not as bad as you think it might be. I did a 2 year old Suburban with it and its not as much work as it sounds,just keep it wet.The clay is 2 bars about 1/2 thick and 2 x 3 inches.The 2 bars that came with it were enough to do the Suburban and 2 smaller cars.It does take some work but my truck had some white overspray(black truck) and it took it off and the paint is as smooth as it could be.That truck has 4 coats af z on it now and just a wash makes it shine like crazy.After the clay the rest is a breeze,put the z on thin thin thin and it wipes off with no effort.Is the car your putting it on dark?If so you will be very pleased!Good luck.
...so I guess I'll have to keep asking questions. Does washing with Dawn take Zaino off? Also, I have read/heard/imagined that I should re-apply the Zaino every six months or so. Does that mean that I do the Dawn, clay, etc. all over again, or do I just wash and apply the three Z coats?
I promise that after I get done, all I'll have to say is that my car looks spectacular. Thanks for all your patience and help. You guys are swell.
Oh, for the person who uses Pledge - how do you think it will work on my spare tire cover?
A wash with Dawn will not remove Zaino but perhaps mulitple washings will. A 50-50 mix of alcohol and water will remove Z as will body shop prep solvents like PrepSol.
Like any protectant, time and exposure will degrade the Zaino system. There is no formula for this as far too many variables come into play. But it's safe to say that if your car is a daily driver, it will need to be re-detailed at some point. 6 months is about the practical time limit for a sealant like Zaino. A twice-a-year full detail is a good idea to maintain a high level of protection and looks.
When you detail your car again it will need to be washed first. Use Dawn if you want but any good car shampoo, like Z7, is fine. If you feel your car needs claying, go ahead with that step. If the paint needs polishing to remove swirls or other defects, do that. Follow up with a few coats of Z2 or Z5 (or both) and you'll be set for another few months.
This is a suggested application, but has anyone done it? My only reservation is the "mild abrasive" part but perhaps that's a positive. Any other recs on chrome polishes?
Z-12 is a mild glass polish. There are no aggressive solvents or abrasives in it. It's more than safe for chrome plating. Just make sure the "chrome" you want to polish is really chrome plated metal and not that plastic chrome. The plastic crome should be cleaned with a mild soapy mixture or glass cleaner.
1. I prefer microfiber towels. I have relegated all my cotton terry towels to "dirty duty"; wheels, doorjambs, underhood, etc.
2. For washing I prefer 100% cotton chenille wash mitts. I like the mitts made by Viking Car Care. Most parts stores sell mitts made of cotton and polyester. The only parts store I know of that sells 100% cotton mitts are O'Reillys and NAPA. Of course you can find them easily online.
For drying and polishing, there are many high quality microfiber vendors on the internet. I've been buying from Waynestowels.com as of late, but other excellent sources are properautocare.com, pakshak.com and autofiber.com.
I have a white car and have alot of tar around the lower sides of my car. I have tried white polishing compound, mineral spirits, different kinds of bug and tar removers but nothing is getting it off. The compound takes alittle off but it would take hours just on one small area to get the job done. Also the finish on the lower sides of my car is alittle different than the rest, its more of a plastic feel. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Its not a new car, 2000 Contour, but it is very clean, runs great and I want to keep it looking nice!
I agree that it might not be tar. Lots of stuff looks like it - paint, road sealant, could have been something that spilled off a truck.
Tar should come off with a petroleum-based solvent or cleaner. Mineral spirits, gas, tar remover, etc are all basically the same thing. If that stuff doesn't work, keep trying other cleaners. I have on hand: Acetone, mineral spirits, MEK, Simple Green, Goo Gone, PrepSol (wax and silicone remover), and brake cleaner. For me, DEFCON ONE is brake cleaner. If that doesn't work, I'm usually stumped. I guess an acid-based decontamination wash would work.
Hard to say but for now I'd stick with the household products and remedies and see how they go.
I have a couple of questions after Zing my CR-V. First of all, I could only put two coats of Z2, etc., on at first. I want to put two more on (only two weeks have gone by), but do I add the ZFX again, or just plain Z2?
Secondly, I have been reading this forum a little at a time and am a little confused about what to put on the windows. I cleaned with Sprayway, then put (plain) Z2 on followed by Z6. I did not put Z6 on my wipers, but will in the future. This car is new, so the glass is OK. However, the windshield on my old car looked like it had sugar sprinkled over it when the sun shown in. I am not exactly sure what caused this, and don't think that I would be able to avoid it happening to my new car, but is there something that "fills in" those little dings? I'm not familiar with any "polishes" (like wax for glass??), and like I said, I only used Z2 on it so far. Any ideas?
Oh, one more thing. I have Z2 that is almost six years old. It is still liquidy, and mixes with itself well. I know that the website says that it is only good for two years. Has anyone else used such old stuff? I thought that I might use that as the Z2 for my windshield...
For your two more coats of Z2, you have two options after washing the car. !) Apply Z2 without the ZFX, wait 12 or 24 hours, depending who you talk with, and then the second coat, or 2) Use ZFX with the Z2 and apply the first coat, remove the haze, and apply the second coat. Actually there is a third option, Z2/ZFX for the first coat and plain Z2 for the second coat.
I'm no help on the glass. Have never tried Z2 and/or Z6 on the windows. I just use Sprayway and sometimes RainX.
Not a lot you can do about pitted glass. Auto glass has been getting thinner and softer in recent years, so pitting is more of an issue now than ever. A light glass polish like Zaino Z12 might help but it's best used to remove embedded road grime from glass, not pits and scratches.
Z2 will help repel water, making it act like Rain-X. But it won't help reduce road rash and abrasions. Honestly, the best thing to do is regularly clean the glass in and out. Use a good quality glass cleaner and a dedicated microfiber towel and you'll be good to go.
As Kderobertis said, road tar should not be hard to remove. I own a white, 2003 4Runner, and to remove road tar I first used a bug/tar remover cream (I forget the name brand, but it's been on the market for decades). I use this compound to remove the bulk of the tar, and any that's left is usually quickly removed by Zaino's claybar.
A bit of organic (carbon-based) chemistry: Any organic molecuIe (eg, acetone), as well as any organic "mixture" (eg, tar) has a characteristic "solubility", and solubility is fundamentally based on the electrochemical property of "polarity". In general, highly nonpolar ("greasy") molecules and compounds will not be dissolved by highly polar solvents such as water. Likewise, highly polar molecules or compounds (eg, salt) will not be dissolved by nonpolar substances such as cooking oil. This electrochemical concept of "like dissolves like" explains why, for example, fingernail polish is easily removed with acetone, but not by water (which is very polar).
Conventional "soaps" are typically mixtures of organic molecules with polar "head groups" attached to long, "greasy" carbon "tails". Because soaps combine the electrochemical features of both polar and nonpolar compounds, they are often effective in dissolving many substances through the process of "saponification".
If you think of complex organic molecules as consisting of beads of carbon atoms arranged in a wide array of lengths and shapes, then you can imagine how road tar is a highly complex mixture of various long-chain, branched-chain, and cyclic (ring shaped) organic molecules, most of which are rather "greasy" or nonpolar. Gasoline will indeed attack and dissolve the tar on your vehicle because of its properties as a nonpolar organic solvent, but it is also highly flammable, and it may attack your vehicle's finish. (And, by itself, rubbing alcohol is a bit too polar to easily remove road tar, and it may dull the clearcoat, not to mention being flammable as well.)
I actually got it done over the weekend and the Mohters clay bar got the job done. The only disadvantage is- Pep Boys sell the Mothers clay bar as a package so I ended up paying $14.00 for one clay bar with some other product that I dont need.
My wife's Accord is like a mirror-she has the Grey Pearl and that color really brings out the ulimate Zaino shine.
I've read through the search on this subject, but haven't found my answer. Does the Z product for tires keep them from turning brown? Every tire dressing I've tried so far turns my tires brown (or tan) after a few weeks. It doesn't effect my next dressing, but sure doesn't look very good after a week or so. Any suggestions, other than a new application each week?? :sick: Thanks.
Soft Scrub on a damp rag works better than an other product I've ever tried on tar or tough bug removal, may take the wax or polish off, but, doesn't seem to harm the clear coat. Try a small inconspicuous spot and see for yourself.
I just bought an '05 black Infiniti G35 sedan and I'd really like to keep it looking its best. What would be a good basic regimen after an initial wash with Dawn? I don't need the clay bar at this point. Is Z5 only to be used in place of Z2 until the swirls are gone? Also, if you were to use the Z5 and then apply a coat of Z2 (recommended on the website), would you use ZFX with both? And finally, what do you recommend to use for regular washing, Z7? I gather the application of Z2/Z5 w/ZFX is a twice a year deal, correct?
Are you sure you don't need to clay bar it? I've clayed new cars and experienced huge differences.
Z5 is used to remove swirls. I would ony use ZFX with the first coat whether that is Z5 or Z2 is up to you. When I wash I use Z7.
As far as the frequency of application, it depends on many factors. The best advice I can give is to reapply when necessary. If you park in a garage, it will be less often than when you park outside. Also, it depends on how many coats you apply.
I would do the "baggie test" to determine if you need to clay. Put your hand into a baggie, and slide it across a freshly-washed surface. If you feel any kind of bumps/it's not easy to slide the baggie across the paint, you need to clay.
Use Z-5 to minimize the impact of the swirls (it doesn't really hide or fill them - you need Z-PC or to wetsand the car, but I wouldn't think you'd have bad swirls where you'd need that on a new car - if you did, I'd make the dealer fix it :-). I'd use the Z-5 until you were satisfied, then switch over to Z-2 for its great gloss and shine properties.
I happen to use/mix ZFX with everything, but when I get to apply Zaino is hit-and-miss (may do a marathon weekend, then nothing but washes for 3 months). I try to get a layer of between 6 and 12 coats on a car in spring/in fall. Might add one or two during the year if I can. Don't forget to use the Z-6 gloss enhancer - it really does help bring up and out the shine (and you can use it on glass to help get the "Rain-X effect"). It's also useful to spray a little Z-6 onto your applicator to keep the Z-2/ZFX or Z-5/ZFX from soaking into it.
Yes, by all means, always use the Z-7. I just washed a friend's new IS350 with Z-7 wash only (no time to get it clayed, so I didn't do the Dawn Wash) and it's amazing how much it brought up the shine. Did the same on the wife's Envoy this past weekend (no Zaino applied since we got it last fall, *sigh*, maybe this weekend).
ZFX should be used with both Z5 and Z2. ZFX allows both products to crosslink immediately so layering is possible without having to wait 12 or 24 or however many hours before applying another coat. You can layer 3 coats per one ZFX session.
Z5 has slight swirl filling ability (Z2 does not) so if your car has swirls, either remove them first (best idea) or use several coats of Z5 to fill them. Then use Z2 as a final protective coat.
Z7 has some of the same polymers as Z2 and Z5 so its a perfect compliment to the Zaino system. Same with Z6. You can use other shampoos and detail sprays, but only Zaino's products have the reinforcing polymers that enhance what is already applied to the car.
According to Sal's website, Z5 does a great job of concealing swirls and light scratches. Is it just hype? Without ever using his products, I'm totally content with my gloss and depth by using over-the-counter products. However, if I can conceal light swirls & scratches, then I want this stuff. I have an 8 month old black car and that is this biggest pain. You can never get rid of them, but concealing them would be great. I have to get about 12 inches from the car to slightly detect them. It will only get worse over time...
You can apply as many coats of either or in combo as you want...but it's also a case of deminishing returns. In my case, with a light colored car, gold, I see no improvement after 3=4 coats of Z2. I'm told dark colors can take more if desired. My suggestion is apply your coats until you don't see any difference, then stop and enjoy the shine and protection for 6+ months.
I've used several generations of Z5 and it does work as advertised as long as the swirl marks are very light. If the paint is neglected or has never been polished, Z5 won't make much of a dent in the more serious swirls. So, yes, Z5 works but it's best on paint in near perfect condition.
If you are currently using glazes and waxes, or products that fill very well, and are happy with the results, I say keep using them. With black paint, it's almost impossible to get it looking perfect and keeping it there. I've owned several black cars so I feel that pain. For many years I was a "glaze and wax" guy because that combo did the best job on black and other dark colors. Now I'm more interested in gloss and durability so I've stopped using waxes and moved into sealants like Zaino.
Thanks. My car is only 8 months old, but I can detect very light scratches & swirls. However, if I can slow the process, I'll try anything. I believe most of these light scratches come from driving. Driving 80 mph down the road would be similiar to getting sand blasted by tiny dust particles in the air.
After applying many coats Z5 and Z2, does the swirling process stop since you are covering the clear coat with the Zaino protectant? Seems to me that would be the case since you are building layers of protection....
No product can prevent swirls because they are created by mechanical action abrading the paint. As I mentioned previously, you can either hide swirls with a glaze or remove them with a paint polish. Mutliple coats of Z2 on top of swirls will just result in shiny swirls. There is nothing in Z2 to fill the swirls.
Z5 can only do so much but the more serious swirls will have to be removed by a polish if you want them gone. The goal should be to polish your paint to a very high level, then use a product to protect your hard work. Zaino excels at this.
Thanks. But for argument's sake, if one had a completely swirl free new finish and Zaino was applied in multiple coats, how could the clear coat finish on the vehicle ever be damaged since it is protected with layers of Zaino? I read where one guy had so many coats of Zaino that he could not feel the racing stripes anymore. This leads me to believe that a new clear coat finish is being added to the vehicle. Am I missing something? If new swirls appear on the Zaino applied vehicle, then they are being created on the Zaino clear coat and not the vehicle's original clear coat.
The amount of sealant that is being applied to the paint is so microscopically thin, it can't build up. It can't be measured. The story about the guy with so much Zaino on his paint that he can't feel the stripes is probably internet bravado more than anything. I've discussed this with Sal before and even he says it is impossible to apply that much product onto paint. Paint can only take so much sealant or wax. Once you've applied enough product to the paint, additional applications are wasted.
Zaino is not stronger or more durable than an automotive clearcoat. Zaino can easily be removed with an abrasive paint polish or solvent like naptha or similar product. It is not like a suit of armor. Think of Zaino as more like a chain link fence, pulled very tightly across the paint. The chain link is chemically bonded to the paint but it's also flexible so it expands and contracts as the paint heats and cools. By comparison, a wax seals off the paint but is not flexible. Think of dipping your hand in hot wax and letting it dry. If you move your hand, what happens to the wax? This effect does not happen with Zaino.
I've seen the condition where very light swirls were in the Zaino coat and not the paint. This is very hard to see but it's happened to me. Using clean soft applicators and towels is the key to minimizing light marring in the sealant coat.
About the most Zaino you can apply to paint is 3-4 coats. After that the law of diminishing returns applies.
Hope all this helps. It's a good discussion to have.
Am I the only one who thinks Zaino is a crock? I have tried several times to apply it and it won't dry. I called Zaino and the guy said, "yeah, that tends to happen. Put a fan on it overnight." And blow debris back into my paint???? Please. Zaino now sits in my garage gathering dust, along side the tub of Oxi-clean and the omlette maker my wife ordered.
Sir, It is known that you are the resident "detail guru" and I would like your input on my situation.
Profile: Age 50 Anal Detail person 2004 Toyota 4Runner - Titanium (SP)Metallic.
I have been using the Zaino system: ie, wash, clay, wash Z2,Z6,Z2,Z6 for 2 years with this car. Always by hand and with microfiber towels.
This past Thanksgiving, I had the time to do the above treatment with great results. My problem is that doing it by hand has taken a toll over the years on shoulders and elbows.
You have recommended the PC 7224 or 7336 buffers. I am considering a purchase of this buffer. However; I'm not sure on the type of pads or bonnets while using "Z" products.
I have used sanders/buffers (all they had at the time) from CIRCA 1972 with burned paint on my Corvette.
Could you give me a direciton in the type of PC I should use with pads, or should I keep doing it by hand.
A PC is a great detailing tool and something an "anal detail person" should definitely have in his arsenal. Not only will it help with Zaino application but it will really work well in removing swirl marks and other paint defects that detract from the overall appearance of your truck. Really, the strength of the machine is in its paint polishing ability moreso than its ability to simply apply a product. The PC will definitely take your detailing to the next level.
When using a PC to apply Zaino, its best to use the softest foam pads available, just as if you were applying a liquid wax. Most suppliers sell a "finishing pad" or "glazing pad" designed to be used when no polishing action is desired. Here is a nice chart outlining pad types: http://www.properautocare.com/dufopadcoch.html
What I'd recommend for starters is a kit that includes the machine, a velcro backing plate and a selection of pads. One nice kit can be seen here: http://www.properautocare.com/74uldemawico.html
There is lots to read about the PC and the various pads and products you can use it with. If you are still researching, have a look at the info at this link: http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
This is the best PC "primer" I've ever read. It will probably answer all your questions about the machine and its use. The article is 3 years old so some of the pad and product recommendations are a bit dated, but the core information is spot on: http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1
I hope all this info helps. Feel free to hit us with any questions you have.
I have tried other waxes. This looks like another wax. I'm not interested in a wax that has to be reapplied regularly. I much prefer a polymer like Zaino.
Comments
Also, has anyone heard about using Club Soda to clean windows? I heard through a friend that firestations use it all the time.
Do this... really clean your windows well (I use Sprayway glass cleaner, but you can also use vinegar in distilled water, and newspaper to rub/apply it. Really works well). Put some Z-2 on and then Z-6. You will get the "Rain-X effect" of the water streaking up your windshield, no wipers necessary.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
I promise that after I get done, all I'll have to say is that my car looks spectacular. Thanks for all your patience and help. You guys are swell.
Oh, for the person who uses Pledge - how do you think it will work on my spare tire cover?
Like any protectant, time and exposure will degrade the Zaino system. There is no formula for this as far too many variables come into play. But it's safe to say that if your car is a daily driver, it will need to be re-detailed at some point. 6 months is about the practical time limit for a sealant like Zaino. A twice-a-year full detail is a good idea to maintain a high level of protection and looks.
When you detail your car again it will need to be washed first. Use Dawn if you want but any good car shampoo, like Z7, is fine. If you feel your car needs claying, go ahead with that step. If the paint needs polishing to remove swirls or other defects, do that. Follow up with a few coats of Z2 or Z5 (or both) and you'll be set for another few months.
White cotten Towels, Micro Fiber ??
Could You guys recommend A Good quality Wash mit & Micro Fiber Cloth that WONT Cause Scratches & Swirls.
Thanks.
1. I prefer microfiber towels. I have relegated all my cotton terry towels to "dirty duty"; wheels, doorjambs, underhood, etc.
2. For washing I prefer 100% cotton chenille wash mitts. I like the mitts made by Viking Car Care. Most parts stores sell mitts made of cotton and polyester. The only parts store I know of that sells 100% cotton mitts are O'Reillys and NAPA. Of course you can find them easily online.
For drying and polishing, there are many high quality microfiber vendors on the internet. I've been buying from Waynestowels.com as of late, but other excellent sources are properautocare.com, pakshak.com and autofiber.com.
Tks.
Try a dap of gasoline on a towel and dab at it, this will remove it, if its tar, then apply a fresh coat of wax over the entire area.
Tar should come off with a petroleum-based solvent or cleaner. Mineral spirits, gas, tar remover, etc are all basically the same thing. If that stuff doesn't work, keep trying other cleaners. I have on hand: Acetone, mineral spirits, MEK, Simple Green, Goo Gone, PrepSol (wax and silicone remover), and brake cleaner. For me, DEFCON ONE is brake cleaner. If that doesn't work, I'm usually stumped. I guess an acid-based decontamination wash would work.
Hard to say but for now I'd stick with the household products and remedies and see how they go.
Secondly, I have been reading this forum a little at a time and am a little confused about what to put on the windows. I cleaned with Sprayway, then put (plain) Z2 on followed by Z6. I did not put Z6 on my wipers, but will in the future. This car is new, so the glass is OK. However, the windshield on my old car looked like it had sugar sprinkled over it when the sun shown in. I am not exactly sure what caused this, and don't think that I would be able to avoid it happening to my new car, but is there something that "fills in" those little dings? I'm not familiar with any "polishes" (like wax for glass??), and like I said, I only used Z2 on it so far. Any ideas?
Oh, one more thing. I have Z2 that is almost six years old. It is still liquidy, and mixes with itself well. I know that the website says that it is only good for two years. Has anyone else used such old stuff? I thought that I might use that as the Z2 for my windshield...
I'm no help on the glass. Have never tried Z2 and/or Z6 on the windows. I just use Sprayway and sometimes RainX.
Z2 will help repel water, making it act like Rain-X. But it won't help reduce road rash and abrasions. Honestly, the best thing to do is regularly clean the glass in and out. Use a good quality glass cleaner and a dedicated microfiber towel and you'll be good to go.
A bit of organic (carbon-based) chemistry: Any organic molecuIe (eg, acetone), as well as any organic "mixture" (eg, tar) has a characteristic "solubility", and solubility is fundamentally based on the electrochemical property of "polarity". In general, highly nonpolar ("greasy") molecules and compounds will not be dissolved by highly polar solvents such as water. Likewise, highly polar molecules or compounds (eg, salt) will not be dissolved by nonpolar substances such as cooking oil. This electrochemical concept of "like dissolves like" explains why, for example, fingernail polish is easily removed with acetone, but not by water (which is very polar).
Conventional "soaps" are typically mixtures of organic molecules with polar "head groups" attached to long, "greasy" carbon "tails". Because soaps combine the electrochemical features of both polar and nonpolar compounds, they are often effective in dissolving many substances through the process of "saponification".
If you think of complex organic molecules as consisting of beads of carbon atoms arranged in a wide array of lengths and shapes, then you can imagine how road tar is a highly complex mixture of various long-chain, branched-chain, and cyclic (ring shaped) organic molecules, most of which are rather "greasy" or nonpolar. Gasoline will indeed attack and dissolve the tar on your vehicle because of its properties as a nonpolar organic solvent, but it is also highly flammable, and it may attack your vehicle's finish. (And, by itself, rubbing alcohol is a bit too polar to easily remove road tar, and it may dull the clearcoat, not to mention being flammable as well.)
Would this be a problem?
I would guess no.
The only disadvantage is- Pep Boys sell the Mothers clay bar as a package so I ended up paying $14.00 for one clay bar with some other product that I dont need.
My wife's Accord is like a mirror-she has the Grey Pearl and that color really brings out the ulimate Zaino shine.
Does the Z product for tires keep them from turning brown?
Every tire dressing I've tried so far turns my tires brown (or tan) after a few weeks.
It doesn't effect my next dressing, but sure doesn't look very good after a week or so.
Any suggestions, other than a new application each week?? :sick:
Thanks.
Thanks for your help.
Z5 is used to remove swirls. I would ony use ZFX with the first coat whether that is Z5 or Z2 is up to you. When I wash I use Z7.
As far as the frequency of application, it depends on many factors. The best advice I can give is to reapply when necessary. If you park in a garage, it will be less often than when you park outside. Also, it depends on how many coats you apply.
Hope this helps.
Use Z-5 to minimize the impact of the swirls (it doesn't really hide or fill them - you need Z-PC or to wetsand the car, but I wouldn't think you'd have bad swirls where you'd need that on a new car - if you did, I'd make the dealer fix it :-). I'd use the Z-5 until you were satisfied, then switch over to Z-2 for its great gloss and shine properties.
I happen to use/mix ZFX with everything, but when I get to apply Zaino is hit-and-miss (may do a marathon weekend, then nothing but washes for 3 months). I try to get a layer of between 6 and 12 coats on a car in spring/in fall. Might add one or two during the year if I can. Don't forget to use the Z-6 gloss enhancer - it really does help bring up and out the shine (and you can use it on glass to help get the "Rain-X effect"). It's also useful to spray a little Z-6 onto your applicator to keep the Z-2/ZFX or Z-5/ZFX from soaking into it.
Yes, by all means, always use the Z-7. I just washed a friend's new IS350 with Z-7 wash only (no time to get it clayed, so I didn't do the Dawn Wash) and it's amazing how much it brought up the shine. Did the same on the wife's Envoy this past weekend (no Zaino applied since we got it last fall, *sigh*, maybe this weekend).
--Robert
Z5 has slight swirl filling ability (Z2 does not) so if your car has swirls, either remove them first (best idea) or use several coats of Z5 to fill them. Then use Z2 as a final protective coat.
Z7 has some of the same polymers as Z2 and Z5 so its a perfect compliment to the Zaino system. Same with Z6. You can use other shampoos and detail sprays, but only Zaino's products have the reinforcing polymers that enhance what is already applied to the car.
If you are currently using glazes and waxes, or products that fill very well, and are happy with the results, I say keep using them. With black paint, it's almost impossible to get it looking perfect and keeping it there. I've owned several black cars so I feel that pain. For many years I was a "glaze and wax" guy because that combo did the best job on black and other dark colors. Now I'm more interested in gloss and durability so I've stopped using waxes and moved into sealants like Zaino.
After applying many coats Z5 and Z2, does the swirling process stop since you are covering the clear coat with the Zaino protectant? Seems to me that would be the case since you are building layers of protection....
Z5 can only do so much but the more serious swirls will have to be removed by a polish if you want them gone. The goal should be to polish your paint to a very high level, then use a product to protect your hard work. Zaino excels at this.
Zaino is not stronger or more durable than an automotive clearcoat. Zaino can easily be removed with an abrasive paint polish or solvent like naptha or similar product. It is not like a suit of armor. Think of Zaino as more like a chain link fence, pulled very tightly across the paint. The chain link is chemically bonded to the paint but it's also flexible so it expands and contracts as the paint heats and cools. By comparison, a wax seals off the paint but is not flexible. Think of dipping your hand in hot wax and letting it dry. If you move your hand, what happens to the wax? This effect does not happen with Zaino.
I've seen the condition where very light swirls were in the Zaino coat and not the paint. This is very hard to see but it's happened to me. Using clean soft applicators and towels is the key to minimizing light marring in the sealant coat.
About the most Zaino you can apply to paint is 3-4 coats. After that the law of diminishing returns applies.
Hope all this helps. It's a good discussion to have.
It is known that you are the resident "detail guru" and I would like your input on my situation.
Profile:
Age 50
Anal Detail person
2004 Toyota 4Runner - Titanium (SP)Metallic.
I have been using the Zaino system: ie, wash, clay, wash
Z2,Z6,Z2,Z6 for 2 years with this car. Always by hand and with microfiber towels.
This past Thanksgiving, I had the time to do the above treatment with great results. My problem is that doing it by hand has taken a toll over the years on shoulders and elbows.
You have recommended the PC 7224 or 7336 buffers. I am considering a purchase of this buffer. However; I'm not sure on the type of pads or bonnets while using "Z" products.
I have used sanders/buffers (all they had at the time) from CIRCA 1972 with burned paint on my Corvette.
Could you give me a direciton in the type of PC I should use with pads, or should I keep doing it by hand.
Thanks for your input.
Mike
When using a PC to apply Zaino, its best to use the softest foam pads available, just as if you were applying a liquid wax. Most suppliers sell a "finishing pad" or "glazing pad" designed to be used when no polishing action is desired. Here is a nice chart outlining pad types: http://www.properautocare.com/dufopadcoch.html
What I'd recommend for starters is a kit that includes the machine, a velcro backing plate and a selection of pads. One nice kit can be seen here: http://www.properautocare.com/74uldemawico.html
There is lots to read about the PC and the various pads and products you can use it with. If you are still researching, have a look at the info at this link: http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
This is the best PC "primer" I've ever read. It will probably answer all your questions about the machine and its use. The article is 3 years old so some of the pad and product recommendations are a bit dated, but the core information is spot on: http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1
I hope all this info helps. Feel free to hit us with any questions you have.
Thanks for your reply. Lots of good info to consider.
It sounds like this is what I need to take some of the effort out.
Mike
I zaino my vehicles about once a month in the temperate months and skip winter. So about 6-7 times per year.