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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair



  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome.
  • jwallyjwally Posts: 71
    I took a mechanic on a test drive while snap on computer code finder was attached. I was trying to reproduce tranny shutter but couldn't. The mechanic did find a problem with the firing of 1 and 4 plugs. No other codes came up. So he changed one of the coil packs which controls 1 and 4 plugs. my car has 3 individual coil packs. It still did not fix tranny shutter. Every time i get shutter i maintain gas pedal pressure and then tap break pedal, the shutter goes away and RPM's go up. If this seems to help when I tap break it leaves me to believe its the transmission?As alcan said"When the brake pedal is depressed, the torque converter clutch releases. There is no longer a mechanical connection between the engine and transaxle, and an ignition misfire is less noticeable." so am I correct?thank you alcan for your previous assistance,do you think it's the transmission?
  • tamikatamika Posts: 2
    I have a 95 bonni sse I am having a problem with the car dying on me when I come to a stop after a long drive. I took the car to a mechanic to get it diagnosed the computer read a problem with my tcc solenoid and my egr pintle position.

    Im am looking fix why it is cutting off first.
    by reading I am assuming the it is the tcc solenoid, but I am not sure. to fix the tcc solenoid the mechanic told me $504 and to fix the egr pintle $265 does this sound about right
    if anyone has any knowledge about this please give me some advise.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    This was in my email. I've copied it here for the benefit of anyone who might have the same symptoms:

    "My problem is that my Bonnie has the "shudders and shakes" sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop. I mean it doesn't happen when I gradually pull off from a light or stop, just when I gun it. It will shake and shudder real hard for a few seconds then I let up off the gas and it runs fine. Well today I was on the highway cruising about 70 and I felt a what can be best be describes as a grab, like the transmission just skipped a beat or something.
    My Bonneville is a 1994 model automatic transmission,457 miles with the 3.8 engine. All services have been done regularly."

    If the shudder is also evident when the torque converter locks up around 35-40 mph, I'd start by looking at plug wires,plugs, and coils. If it's only there on hard accel from a stop, try pulling away in Drive instead of OD. In OD, a mechanical sprag clutch transfers torque into the transaxle's gearset. They've been known to start slipping and will cause a bad shudder as they grab/release/grab/release. In Drive, a multi disc clutch is also applied. It takes up some of the torque load and prevents the shudder.
    If this works, it's time for the transaxle to come out.
  • madmousemadmouse Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply to my message. I mistakenly posted the wrong mileage. It is 147,456 miles. If what you say is correct(the transxale has to come out, what price range can I expect the shops to charge me.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hi, I thought 457 miles was kinda low. LOL If it does have to come out, you're probably looking at a rebuild since the forward sprag is way inside there. Providing there are no other hard parts requiring replacement (gears, pump, etc) most shops in this area would charge in the $1,600 - $1,800 Cdn range for a soft part rebuild (clutches, seals, gaskets).

    Try what I suggested, hard accel in Drive instead of OD and see if the symptoms disappear. That'd help diagnose it.
  • dt1026dt1026 Posts: 1
    93 Bonneville - carpet in the back seat foot wells has been wet on several occasions. Thought it was temporary....not drying out though. Pulled up the carpet and found the insulation under carpet is soaked and moldy! Pulled up the rear bench part of seat and it is damp underneath, but not soaked. One of the seat belts has rust on it as you pull it out; suspecting mechanism is rusted inside. Two of three seatbelts have had a white crystal like substance that grows on them. I've cleaned it off, but it comes back. Anyone with similar problem - solution? Where is the water coming in? message 1185 had similar?
  • lash92sseilash92ssei Posts: 35
    Take a look at the weather stripping around your doors. That is where most water leaks come from.
  • madmousemadmouse Posts: 3
    Took it to a shop today and you were right. A lot of parts are worn and the clutch plates need to be replaced. He did say something about the forward sprag not looking to well. He showed it to me and I saw that it was kinda smooth and worn in some places. He gave me a price of $1697 US dollars. I think I'm going to take that money and just trade it in on a new Bonnie. I love that car but I don't think it's worth putting that kind of money in it,plus it needs a paint job. Hopefully the next Bonnie will give me another 150,000 miles before the tranny up and dies on me. Hey what about a used tranny?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Well, with used it can be buyer beware. Here, if the recycling yard installs it and it's no good, they eat the labor for the replacement. With a 3rd party install you might not be that lucky. Won't hurt to ask around though.
  • rickd50rickd50 Posts: 1
    Today I am replacing the intake manifold on my 97 Bonneville w/90,000. Service manager indicated this is a common problem. Looking at other discussions about engine failures following the replacement I'm wondering how common this is.
  • tamikatamika Posts: 2
    I wrote last week about my car stalling and cutting off the dealer said it was a tcc solenoid problem and a possible egr pintle problem. I asked him to diagnose the problem before fixing he assured me that it was the solenoid problem that cost me $504 the car stayed at the shop for 4 days.
     when I got the car back I made to my house which was less than a mile away when I went to leave again the car wouldnt start I finally got it started than it cutt off again and stayed off for 30 mins. of course the repair shop was close I took it back the following day they looked at it made some minor adjustments and told me it would work again. the next couple of days the car would cut off several times after it heated up than finally would run.

    After being so sick and tired of cutting off in the middle of the road in front of people I took it back and demanded that they fix the damn problem or give me my money back. I also sat and watch them work on it. It was never the solenoid the problem was the crank sensor and some valves needed clean and experienced mechanic would have picked this up immediately
  • madmousemadmouse Posts: 3
    Hey Alcan, I got my Bonnie back and it's running a lot better. No more hard stuttering from a dead stop.The guy at the transmission shop went ahead and fixed the tranny for 875.00. I had told him I couldn't afford 1600 bucks and to just put it back together. Well he had already bought the parts. He asked what I could afford and I told him 800 bucks, he said would 875 work and I said you got a deal. I still think I need to do a tune up but that is minor getting a little hesitation out of it at around 65mph.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Now THAT'S the deal of the month, as long as all the required parts were replaced. All you need now is a fresh set of ACDelco plugs and wires, air & fuel filters, PCV valve, clean the throttle body with air intake cleaner and an old toothbrush (careful removing the mesh screen in the throttle body), check the condition of the serpentine belt and hoses, and you're good to go.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,507
    I ended up need two large paper clips rebent to form a hook at the end that I could reach through the grid and pull from behind. One clip pulling on one side was tearing the soft metal mesh. Takes two, one at each side, and some gentle teasing to work it out.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Don't forget to remove the front snap ring first. It's pretty thin so often gets overlooked. The screen tends to come out in chunks then.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,507
    Also My toothbrush bristles started to loosen from the plastic after a minute. Maybe it was the type of cleaner I'd gotten from PepBoys, but the bristles were just about ready to start coming loose inside the intake manifold. So be quick and check your bristles. A wooden brush with bristles probably would be best -- from a paint store.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
    it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new(986bucks)at my local A/C shop, Whats next!

    Why does my car stall while turning or after letting off the accelerator?
  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    My car also stalls what valves needed to be cleaned
  • dbwilsondbwilson Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2000 SE and I have noticed that the engine idle during warm, or cold starting is possibly higher than it should be.

    When warm: upon starting the engine, the rpm is at 900 rpm for a few seconds, but then goes to 1100 rpm for a few seconds and then gradually goes to about 1200 rpm after about 30 seconds if I don't place the transmission in gear. Once in gear the engines idles at 675 rpm. This always occurs when the car is completely warmed up and the outside temp is in the 70 or 80s. Is this normal behavior?

    When cold: when starting the engine, the engine initially idles at 1100 briefly, then jumps to 1300 rpm and then gradually rises to 1500 rpm. After that it takes a few minutes for the idle to lower itself to 1100 rpm where it would stay for a very long time. But at this point I place the car in gear. Once the engine is warm the car will idle at 675 rpm.

    I bought the car used with 53,000 miles and have since replaced the plugs and wires and the usual "tune-up" parts. To help solve the idle issue, I also replaced the idle control valve and removed and cleaned the throttle-body. This didn't help the idle issue, but it sure did increase the engine's performance.

    Any suggestions or comments to my problem would be greatly appreciated.
  • mshmsh Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Bonneville, 3.8 series II, with 86,000 miles on it. The transmission seems to shift hard from first to second, and second to third, even into overdrive there is a hard shift. It is not smooth like is should be. There is always a jerk into the next gear. Any help would be appreciated, on what it could be. Thanks.
  • mshmsh Posts: 3
    I also have a problem with my 2001 Bonneville's gas gauge. It always reads full. It seems to stay on full all the time. No matter how much gas it has in it. Stays on full. Would this be a bad sending unit? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    This TSB from GM might apply. It addresses problems with the pressure control solenoid in the transaxle:

    Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly) #00-07-30-002B - (Jul 19, 2002)

    1997-1999 Buick Riviera
    1997-2002 Buick Park Avenue
    1998-2002 Buick LeSabre
    1999-2002 Buick Regal
    2000-2002 Buick Century
    2002 Buick Rendezvous
    1997-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
    1997-2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
    1999-2002 Chevrolet Venture
    2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala
    1997- 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
    1997-2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette
    1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
    2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora (3.5L)
    1997-2002 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Prix
    1999-2002 Pontiac Transport/Montana
    2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek
    with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)

    This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-002A (Section --Automatic Transmission).

    Some owners of the above vehicles with a Hydra-Matic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.

    The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:

    Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind.
    Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick.
    Incorrect transaxle oil level.


    Any of the above conditions may be intermittent, therefore, this test should be performed at least three times.

    Refer to the Line Pressure Check Procedure in SI, along with the Line Pressure Specification Table below, to determine if actual versus desired pressures are within the values specified. The Scan Tool is only able to control the PC solenoid valve in PARK and NEUTRAL with the vehicle stopped. This protects the clutches from extremely high or low pressures in DRIVE or REVERSE ranges.

    Yadda, yadda, yadda........
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Probably the sending unit but could also be a wiring or instrument panel cluster problem. Step #1 in the factory manual diagnostic routine is to verify operation of the instrument cluster. A Tech2 scan tool (GM dealer) is required to diagnose it properly.
  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
    it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!
  • mshmsh Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. Do you know where the Pressure Control Solenoid is located? Is it inside the transmission?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's one of the six solenoids attached to the valve body, under the end cover of the transaxle.
  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    I have a 96 Bonnie with 108,000 miles on it and im having a cooling problem. The A/C does not blow hard or cold it starts to work better when Im on the freeway. so city driving it it not very cool the thermostat is on 60 and the fan is on high but its barley blowing any air. Its electroinc controled. I hear something like a vacumm leak from the pass sid footwell. Ive spent quite a bit of money on the A/C
    it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!
    I took it to my local AC shop they are telling me the compressor, accumlator and the expansion valve need to be replaced. Does this sound correct the quote for the work 900-1100 bucks.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the compressor has failed, then the quote is about right. Reman compressors usually come with the warning that the compressor is not covered by warranty unless the accumulator/dryer is also changed. Also, debris from the compressor gets into the system and requires a system flush and expansion valve replacement.
  • bcorsobcorso Posts: 3
    To me it sounds like a blockage of your vents in some way. If the fan is on high, and little to no airflow, that sends a big red flag something is blocking the airflow from your fan. I would pursue that LONG before dumping a ton of money into something that probably wont fix the problem.
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