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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
97 protoge', 48+K miles. I've had it for two
months and have recently noticed a groaning,
scraping sound while braking slightly or during
slow turns while not applying the brake. Sound is
not consistent. Manual mentions brake pad
indicators making a screeching sound when the pads
are worn...has anyone experienced this groaning,
scraping sound? It sounds just like something is
dragging from underneath and scraping the road. I
am taking it in this week to be evaluated. Can
someone give me an idea of what a brake pad
replacement will run? Do the dealership service
centers indeed charge at least 10% more? Is it
worth it for a Mazda authorized service center to
do the work or does it really matter with a job
like replacing brake pads? Thank you.
months and have recently noticed a groaning,
scraping sound while braking slightly or during
slow turns while not applying the brake. Sound is
not consistent. Manual mentions brake pad
indicators making a screeching sound when the pads
are worn...has anyone experienced this groaning,
scraping sound? It sounds just like something is
dragging from underneath and scraping the road. I
am taking it in this week to be evaluated. Can
someone give me an idea of what a brake pad
replacement will run? Do the dealership service
centers indeed charge at least 10% more? Is it
worth it for a Mazda authorized service center to
do the work or does it really matter with a job
like replacing brake pads? Thank you.
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Comments
I purchased a new Borg Warner valve (Part # EGR1122) at either Auto Zone or O'Reilly for around $75. I have the '95 1.5, so the part you get may have a different number.
Replacement was fairly easy. I just needed an articulated or swiveling ratchet extension to get down to the bolts. Upon inspection, the valve did have significant carbon build up inside. I was just too lazy or impatient to clean out the old one.
Also, be sure to check the rubber air intake snorkle. Mine developed hailine cracks around 7 or 8 years old.
Does anyone have any suggestions for wyldebill?#0 of 0: (wyldebill) Tue 13 Jun '00 (08:22 AM)
this car has a hole the size of the grandcanyon at
low speed, around 1500rpm? it literally pitches
forward before shifting up. the shifts themselves
feel fine, actually pretty tight. it's the damn
pause before the first shift thats annoying me as
well as the timing of it. it's not uncommon for
this car to shift midway around a corner (90
degree). also the car doesn't seem to accellerate
until the rpms are above 2500-3000rpm. i mean u
put the accellerator to the floor and it's this
constant speed until about 2500rpm, then it starts
to pick up. is that right? i've had honda civics
and chev cavaliers that accelerated harder.
bringing it back to dealer (my salesman has since
disappeared..figure that one out) since it is a
pre-certified mazda. curious if anyone has anything similar to offer.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
That might be a lot of technical jargon (or even bull crap), but I do know this: I never had a problem with the transmission.
My .02, FYI.
MD
MD
Thanks for the update.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
when braking, right before coming to a full stop, i can hear some "rubbing" noise, seems the pad is runnbing against sth. more annoyingly, after coming to a full stop (e.g. in front of redlight), the some vibrating noise is heard from the hood, seems coming from engine.
I took the car to a Mazda dealership, they checked , saying my braking pads are fine, it is engine that is running rough because carbon built-up in engine as a result of not completing burning gas (i have only 22k on it, they suggested that is because i didn't drive much.) Believing what they said, i went ahead to have them do the cleaning for a whopping $200. Got the car back yesterday, found out the 2 problems are the same:
1. brake still makes that noise;
2. the engine vibrating noise is even louder and more evident.
I will bring back the car to the shop to argue with them. Can some one give me more suggestions on this case?
FYI: it is a 97' protege, 1.5 liter engine, for the first 2 years i only drove it a few miles everyday (to the metro station) on weekdays, thus only 22k miles on it. Regularly maintained/oil change, etc.
Carbon deposits reach a steady state at about 10-20k miles. The trick is for that steady state to be below the ping threshold.
Causes of excessive carbon deposit buildup are putting supreme gas into a regular engine, driving a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't have a chance to warm up, and an engine that burns oil can have excessive carbon deposit buildup too.
Running rough at idle which is what you are describing can be a binding automatic clutch, or maybe just the idle speed is set too low. You could also have air intake adjustment problems, the air intake is computer controlled and something in there could be binding up too. Ultimately though, all of these add up to an idle speed that is too low, although the cause is different.
I would start with the idle adjust. If you have a manual then the problem is not in an automatic clutch because you don't have one. The problem is more likely idle speed too low, clogged fuel injectors, or something messed up in the air intake path.
If you have a tach you can easily test and verify the idle speed, I don't know what the recommended spec is but mine reads about 650 RPM. If you have a manual then this is an easy test try gently pressing on the gas and get the idle up to 700 RPM, if the shuddering noise goes away then the problem is identified. If you have an automatic then try shifting into neutral and back. If the idle isn't up to near 700 RPM in both cases then an adjustment may be needed, if the problem goes away in neutral and the idle speed goes up, that confirms a low idle also.
If shifting into drive causes a huge decrease in idle speed and idle adjust does not fix it (meaning the idle speed is hard to raise up but in neutral it goes way up easily) then you have an automatic clutch problem (these are rare so not too likely here).
hope this helps,
kmh3
Anyway, felt much better now. Agree with quad143, this is a nice car. Loved it.
Thanks again!
jt
Could these two problems be related to having a bad clip or dashboard unit? Any suggestions? Is the dashboard light hard to replace? Will this be covered under Mazda's warranty?
Thanks for any input.
MD
Today I took it to the dealer. They said - "no problems found". Damn! Tech roadtested the vehicle for 2 miles - felt ok according to the tech. "checked computer for codes. no codes found" - I do not even know what that means.
I have no idea what to do...
A person from the TownHall suggested check/change the air filter. (I'll do it tomorrow, but the car has less than 4000 miles on it) Is it possible the air filter to affect the power that much?
By the way - the gas pedal itself feels sort of "lighter" - seems like now it is easier to press it...
Any ideas/suggestions?
Matt
might well be something stuck to the radiator fan for all you know!
But recently, I have noticed a soft "clunk" when I shift gears, and a very brief loss of power immediately afterwards. Does anyone know what this might be?
Since I am female, I'd like some technical terms, because I want the guys at the dealer's service shop to take me seriously.
I'm calling the dealership Monday, I'll let you know what I find out. I'm ususally in the MAZDA PROTEGE 4 topic thread, but thought I'd check this one out, too. I'd check that thread too. Let me know if you find out anything!
PS Its a brand new ES, only 460 miles, so I'm concerned, too.
I posted before about power loss (mine ES is auto though).
It is gone now (hopefully forever).
The only think I did was to put (again) regular gas in the trunk. Don't know if that has to do something. I read before that this engine is tuned for regular (that would mean the engine is very caprice ...).
Try it. It is cheaper also after all )
Good luck.
It works for a minute or two than it blows a fuse marked "AD FAN". When the fuse is blown the compressor doesn't work. Can anyone diagnose this problem?? It is muggy where I live. Thank you very much. Your quick help is very appreciated.
Last Friday "Engine" indicator has appeared on my dashboard and has remained on since then. Like to know what could be possible problem associated with it. Have already setup appointment w/ the dealer.
MD
Any way I was able to drop the car at dealer's shop. They spend whole day trying to isolate the problem. Finally at end of the day the supervisor called me and informed me that they think one of sensor for fuel injectors is going heywired. Do not know which one. They reset the engine indicator lamp though and fired the engine again. The light did not show up.
He plans to keep the car overnight and check again tomorrow morning. Will let me know then. If any body has a clue would certainly help.
If your car has less than 12K miles on it, the repair should be covered under warranty.
I still love my Protege!
MD
The dealter insists that the car was flooded but there are no indications of this type of damage elsewhere in the car and there was no flooding in the area where the car was parked.
Can anybody help??
MD
dept. in Southern California -- specifically Orange County?
HB
It's just that on Front-Wheel-Drive cars it's buried inside the "transaxle" rather than being hung out between the rear wheels where you can see it, in it's own separate housing.
Bruce
you cannot run any 4 or more wheels vehicle without a differential. That's basic mechanical engineering..unless you have engines attached to each wheel seperately and control the RPM on each of them individually!!!