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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    ... we're all grown up here and take care of our cars. But I will say this in response to you: If you do dump the clutch, ride it, or use it to hold the car stopped facing uphill, then I'll revise that longevity estimate by about 90 percent.

    Zoomster's in the shop as we speak! And of course, as luck would have it, we're just ending a week of cold, wet weather (which is the ONLY time, of course, that the clutch "problem" shows itself), so I'll have to wait through at least a week of this yucky, sunny, 75-degree weather for some nice cold, rainy weather to see just how much of an improvement this new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing are!


    P.S. "Burnouts" and "speed shifts" in a ... '97 SENTRA??? LOL!!!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Just got a call from Mike at Whitten Mazda. My 73,000-mile-old clutch and flywheel looked ...



    I hope there's a LOT of improvement with this new one!!!

  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Car's ready; was finished at 2:15 p.m. Total cost for new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and bearing, labor only:


    I'll have a report on the important part -- how the car drives -- tomorrow morning.

    Parts cost, from what I understand, was around $400. So figure $700 for a new clutch from Mazda, guys. (If you ever need one, that is -- read my previous post.) I'll have the receipt and some exact information tomorrow.

  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    If you would get an aftermarket clutch. I was thinking about that if my clutch continues to chatter and gets to the point I can't take it anymore, I would look to upgrade the clutch maybe. Not that I really know what I'm talking about.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    The labor would be about the same, and you might pay $100 to $150 less for the parts ... maybe?

    All ya gotta do is make a phone call or two.

    But think about it. The clutch assembly is a fundamental part of your transmission. And you wouldn't put an aftermarket transmission in your baby, would you? When things get this complex, I'd rather pay 10 or 20 percent more for the OEM product -- for the very least reason that Mazda will stand behind it if it "slips" up! I mean, I don't want to lose my warranty because I MODDED the car!!! (LOL)

    But make a few calls and find out. I may be way off in either direction ... who knows, there may not be an aftermarket clutch for the car and Felix's Tire & Tranny might have to buy it from Mazda anyway!

    Hey Raymond, if you can work out the kind of deal I did, the Mazda parts will cost you nothing! Have your service manager call 804-378-0747 and ask for Bobby Snead (Whitten's service manager).

  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    I'm not going to mess with the clutch, but I might in the future.

    But as to aftermarket or OEM, well, I don't mean I'm thinking about buying from Bob's Clutches and Things. I'm talking about a quality clutch. They have to be out there. Mazda balances performance and price and puts in what works. But I would bet someone makes one that might be even better. Necessary, maybe not, but better, sure.

    So all I'm really saying is, if it's $700 for Mazda to do, and $700 for what may be an upgrade in the aftermarket, then I'd think about going the aftermarket route.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    You don't want to be stamped with the offensive label of being a "modder."

    Of course, since even the new Mazda clutch has a different part number than the OEM, I guess we're damned no matter what we do.

  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    OK friends, here's what was replaced on Zoomster yesterday. Got my receipt right here in front of me:

    FP01-16-410-9U, "Clutch cvr"
    FP49-11-500A, "Wheel, Fly"
    B633-16-460A-9U, "Clutch Dis"
    FP01-16-510, "Collar, Clu"

    All of the above items were charged to "Warranty."

    Here's what the service writer wrote on my order:

    "Customer states chatter when letting clutch out, install S/O/P. Remove transmission and replace clutch assembly and fly wheel H0101XDX.

    "Mazda goodwill to pay for parts. Customer to pay labor at $55.00 per hour at 5.5 labor hours."

    And that's just what I did. 5.5 x $55.00 = $302.50. (By the way, my dealership's normal labor rate is $72.95 an hour.)

    Now, the important part.

    Of course, it was sunny and 70 when I picked the car up, and on the way home the car responded pretty much like it always did. If anything I noticed that engagements were a little smoother -- hard to describe. The car just felt smoother to drive.

    The real difference came this morning. The day dawned sunny but cold -- 34 degrees at my house -- and dew was all over everything. It was damp! Yay, perfect clutch-chatter conditions!

    I was a little nervous as I backed out of the driveway, wondering if the damned car was going to chatter anyway and I would have wasted 300 bucks. Well, I backed out into the street, put the car in first, let out the clutch, and ...


    Smooooooooooooooth baby!!! No chatter at all. Every subsequent engagement was spot-on, textbook quality.

    And this morning I had a little more time (and distance) to make some observations. Call me nuts, but I would swear the car runs more smoothly now. Maybe the clutch wasn't being held properly against the flywheel before? Maybe the tension wasn't enough on the old one when engaged and that's what caused the chatter? And therefore, with the new clutch plate held more tightly against the flywheel now, there isn't a possible slight amount of slippage or wandering on the flywheel that there may have been before? Whatever the case, it's buttah now, baby. I'm happy. The car's never felt like this before.

    Zoomster and I are now looking toward that big 100K in the sky ... and we shall go on farther, my friends, in search of roads uncharted and out-of-the-way twisties!

  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    what's so offensive about modding???? Meade you need to stop mixing poseurs with real car people that work/maintain/improve their cars the right way.

    raymond, there are plenty of aftermarket manufacturers that sell performance clutches for the Protege. do a search at you-know-where.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Stop being so serious.

  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    "Surely you can't be serious."

    "I am serious, and don't call me Shirley."
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    ACT makes a performance clutch for the Protege.

    question is, have you MODDED your engine lately, such that the stock clutch can no longer hold the power???

    if not, stick with OE is the easiest solution...
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583

    obviously install fees depends on labor rate and what kind of deal you're getting from the shop.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    Centerforce makes upgrade clutches for Proteges as well

    both of these are well-known clutch manufacturers that make clutch kits for many cars
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    Just that it could be better. A few times, under hard acceleration, I've felt the clutch slip, or whatever. Nothing too serious, and only a few times. But it got me thinking that maybe it was a little light for hard driving. Which in turn got me thinking about aftermarket, since getting a dealer to reproduce my chatter is pretty hard considering it needs certain conditions.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    if you are adventurous, try to source a Mazdaspeed Protege clutch from teh dealer (probably gonna be costly though)
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    The small hairline crack in my Protege's air intake hose recently turned into a small hole. So I ordered the part online and replaced it. Easy fix.

    When doing a search for new Mazda Parts online, I didn't find that many competing dealers offering their wares at a discount. I chose one dealer in Birmingham who has an internet site advertising the sale of new Mazda parts. Anyone else know of other sites offering discounted new parts?

    The part was $56 with shipping, somewhat steep considering the value of my old car. Thankfully, new parts are not needed very often.

    1995 Protege LX 5 spd.- still going strong at 172K miles.
  • I just bought this for my daughter and changed all the plugs, dist cap and rotor, and runs and starts fine except when it sits overnight and the temp drops in the 30's. It cranks over fine but when it does fire its like a desiel engine then after that start it idles and starts normal. Any help here will be very much appreciated. I have been leaning towards the coolant thermo sensor but anted to here what some of the pro's had to say about this. Oh it has the z5 1.5 with the automatic tranny.
  • lonestarlonestar Posts: 15
    Been noticing a "clicking" sound when releasing the brake pedal in my this something that's "normal"? I had a Toyota that did the same thing years ago.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    My '95 Protege has the same engine as yours and it also starts a little loud in the morning when it is cold out. Not as loud as say a diesel truck engine, but louder than a Camry. I attribute this to the iron block/aluminum head combo and the lack of sound isolation in the engine bay. So if we are talking about the same thing, it is normal and not a problem.

    If anyone is looking for a cheap driving thrill, then attend the Mazda revitup competition at a city near you. I was at the St. Louis event a couple of weekends ago and had a good time. $40 gets you 10 timed runs in new Mazda 3s and 6s. Eight runs are practice and two are a competition where the fastest time at each weekend event wins an all expense paid trip to the national event at Leguna Seca. I finished 115 out of 906 drivers, not bad for my first try at racing real cars. Oh, and the new Mazda 3 is definitely more fun to drive than my '95 Protege.
  • I should have added a little more, there is a problem when it takes 3-4 min. for it to fire off. It cranks over fine but it is not getting ignition or fuel at first and has happened every time outside air temp drops into the 30's. I was hoping this has been a common problem and some else has had this too. I am not getting a check engine light so it makes it even harder to trouble shoot. I pulled Thermo sensor out and ohmed it out and got 192 k ohms cold at room temp.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,966
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  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Change the plug wires.

  • kato8kato8 Posts: 12
    1999 Protege ES with automatic transmission (42,000 miles). Recently had alignment. Car rides straight with no vibration at highway speed. However, if you hit passing gear (down shift), there is a vibration that only goes away when the transmission upshifts again. There is no vibration as long as you don't downshift.
    Any suggestions?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    A dirty one can cause the engine controller to make the engine run roughly.

    Other things to try: clean injectors, clean valves (you might try an extended highway trip to burn-off some carbon deposits's easier).
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    That other stuff is more expensive, and the plug wire problem has been documented extensively.

  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    I bought my 03 Pro ES manual in November. I run the AC everyday. I've got probably 11k miles on the car. Recently we've been hit with a scorching heat wave. This car's AC can only be termed anemic...running full blast, recirc, the darn car takes 20 minutes to cool down to a comfortable level - sub 70 degrees. The AC is blowing cool air in the center of the stream, with warm fringing the edges.

    Are all pro AC units this weak?
  • lawman1967lawman1967 Posts: 314
    isn't quite that bad, but its nowhere near as powerful as the 02 Galant, my last car, about which I also complained of weak AC.

    It doesn't take 20 minutes to cool my car, but it has to run on full-blast to overcome the recent heat.
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