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BTW, there is only ONE Shift 'E' solenoid on our ATXs! But you will have ONE of three Shift 'E' DTCs: P0771, P0772 or P0773. Without going into great detail, P0771 and P0772 lead to control valve assembly problems -- a moderate repair operation. P0773 is an "easy" one -- bad electrical on the Shift 'E' solenoid. More than likely its a dead solenoid (that's what happened in my case). Easy to pull and replace during a routine ATX service where the pan is dropped. OEM part is about $75 discounted (f/Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte, NC -- simply awesome parts service and advice via website arm). Recommend doing a complete ATX service at same time.
Check ATX fluid level and condition first! If fluid is dirty, it may have contributed to problem. Above all, many Mazda dealerships don't do ATX repairs anymore. They simply change out the ATX. Get the code and we'll go from there. The approx. repair costs are about $150 for OEM parts/fluid and about 2 hours of mechanical labor (say $85/hour = $170). I did my repair myself... but had loads of time and an extra vehicle to use while the car was on stands in the garage all week.
ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
Applicable Models
2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
Symptoms
020 ENGINE HARD START
030 ROUGH IDLE
050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
Symptoms and Conditions
Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.
This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.
Repair Procedure
When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved part.
EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A
-- FYI: the EGR valve can also be cleaned thoroughly with carbon cleaner and reinstalled. If vehicle is under warranty, get dealership to perform this check and necessary replacement. Could also be dirty/sticking IAC solenoid assembly. I had both cleaned on my 2001 2.0 ES and solved a rough idling/near stall condition. Give me more details.
Chances are more than anything that it may be a bad seal between the EGR assembly and intake manifold. Probably a bad metal gasket or mechanic failed to adequately tighten unit/re-install gasket. This is critical to get a proper seal. These are the first things to check as per workshop manual. Was the EGR spring valve fully inspected for proper mechanical operation and lubed? Was EGR solenoid electrical resistance checked? Don't replace any parts until deemed failed or impractical to repair!
I'm a non-mechanic, but am handy. About how long should it take me worst case.
Thanks,
I suppose you could carefully clean the old one out and put it back in if the replacement part is really expensive.
You are also supposed to clean out any ports when doing an EGR job. This is actually hard to do given the location of the EGR valve behind the intake manifold. I did the best I could with a small rag, an old toothbrush, and some solvent.
You can also get some auto shops to clean out the EGR valve and the port with a chemical cleaner. Ideally, this should be done every 30K-50K miles before the carbon buildup is heavy and tough to remove.
194K miles and still running great!
followed by the transmission shifting abruptly into 2nd gear. This would happen every 5 minutes or so, especially with a cold engine, strangely enough. When warm, it would do it every 15 min. or so. I let this go on for 2 weeks before taking it into a transmission shop. The manager said he would do a scan, and within 15 min. told me I needed a new tranny. I took it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion, and this time requested a printout with the scan ( it was free either way, so.) Anyways, turned out to be a Throttle-Position Sensor, which caused about $ 200.00 including labour to fix. No problems since.
By the way, I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Wow! Is this the original tranny? If so, I would contact Mazda and let them know you've got one heck of a specimen, they may feature you in a news bulletin and give you something in appreciation. And let the rest of us know how you got nearly half a million kilometres out of your car; we're all ears!
How do I know this? Because I removed the heat shield after replacing a cracked exhaust manifold and shortly thereafter the secondary radiator fan started to fail. So I replaced the secondary fan with a new one and then put the heat shield back on.
Live and Learn!
I took the plastic grille beneath the window off and put the hoze in the gutter there, water was still coming in.
No secret- just do my own regular maintenance: oil/filter once a month, tranny oil every 4 months, or 30K, spark plugs, air filter, and front pads twice a year, and coolant every year.
Actually, my previous vehicle, '93 B2200 ( the last REAL Mazda pickup) I sold at 685,000 km. Dealer offered $500, but I sold it privately for $ 1500. On that vehicle I changed the clutch once, at 450K, and the timing belt once, at 505K ( engine was the "non-destructive" type, i.e.,won't harm anything if belt breaks while engine on).
Does anyone know if the Protege's engine is also the "non-destructive" type?
Then last week, i noticed that the car began to "stutter" whenever i accelerate from 1st gear to 2nd gear to 3rd gear. I tried reading some articles/posts regarding such problem and most of them indicates that there is a problem with the fuel system (like filter/injector clogged, regulator problem, oxygen sensor problem or the worst case is fuel pump is already worn out).
At the moment, I'm assuming its just a clogging filter/injector. If so, there are two possible solutions:
a. use a fuel system cleaner (like Techron or STP)
b. have the fuel system flushed and replace fuel filter
My questions are:
1. is it effective to use a fuel system cleaner like Techron/STP? will it not damage the car's engine or fuel system?
2. which cleaner brand is the most effective?
3. if i decide to have it flushed instead, can you recommend car shops (around the san bernardino, CA county) who can provide a good/honest service without overpricing?
thanks in advance!
In Autotalk, a local tv show here in Canada devoted to automobile care, this very question came up and the answer offered by the three auto experts was: it will not do any harm but neither will it do much good (apart from giving you a sense of relief that you have done something); the reason: these "bottled" cleaners have a very low level of detergent. The experts noted that many gasolines come with a detergent already that does the job to a certain degree; but if you need to get it done right you need to bring it into the shop to get it done professionally.
p.s. the cleaning service I hear recommended more often is for the throttle body (also called a motorvac). This gets gummed up over the years and requires a solvent to clean a flap that may not be opening and closing properly.
A few months ago, I bought my 99 LX (1.6L) from the original owner who mentioned that when the weather gets hot, the car won't start after being driven for more than 15 minutes.
Since it has been a relatively cool winter, I din't experience it until the other day...... 80+ degrees outside and I took it on an 80 mile trip. When I got to my destination, I shut off the ignition for about 30 minutes or so. When it was time to leave, it would crank over but not fire up. I had to pump on the gas a few times before it finally did.
On the way home, I hit traffic. After about 20 minutes of stop and go, I noticed the temp gauge go up to about 3/4 and my engine started stumbling. I finally pulled in to a parking lot where I attempted to fire it up to no avail. So I let it cool down for another 20 minutes or so and it finally did. I then just sprinted it home and while moving, the temp gauge never went past the normal <1/2.
I suspect that I have a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor; but I am stumped as to why the temperature would creep up like that. Maybe it thinks it is running hotter than it really is....thus leaing out the mixture = heating up the engine.
The fans seem to be working though.
Can someone help me on this?
If it's only during stop and go traffic, I'd say it's your fans. You can check the driver-side fan by lifting the hood, turn on the A/C, and that fan will go on automatically. The other fan is secondary, and will go on at certain temperatures. If neither go on you could check the fuses in the engine compartment. And finally, you could check each fan by removing them and test them (with wires attached to the battery- maybe someone else could explain better). You should be able to find used ones 10 times cheaper than new ones.Very easy to install.
You say you're not sure if it's a sensor- does the coolant seem hot, and does it over-fill into the reservoir? If so, then the car is overheating.
My best guess is that your rad is reaching the end of the line, and one of your fans is starting to burn out.
I've got a 2000 Protege 1.6 ltr. On the highway driving at 100 km/hr, it would suddenly shift into 3rd gear, and the "O/D Off" light would start flashing. Pressing the O/D button would not change anything. I would have to bring the vehicle to almost a full stop in order to stop "O/D Off" light from blinking. Then within 15 minutes it would repeat itself.
I spoke with a few mechanics that informed me that the PCM is simply going into "Safe Mode" when it does that, similiar to a home computer.
I then went to get a scan- some transmission shops are offering a free reading, but the first one I went to tried to rip me off, by telling me there was something wrong with 2nd and 3rd gears, and that I would need to spend about $ 2,000.00 in repairs. I got suspicious when he said he'd do it cheaper if I paid cash.
I then got a second opinion and it turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor. It cost me $100 for the sensor and $ 60 for labour. Although after watching the mechanic, I could have easily have done the job myself, I was just happy to save thousands.
I've had no problems since.
If possible, when you get the scan done, try to get a print out.
I checked the paperwork and the coolant was changed but over a year ago.
The temperature seems to be just fine when I drive it on the freeway. It just started to creep up on stop and go.
Checked the fans and they seem to be working. Both with the AC on and when the engine reaches temp.
I plan to have the radiator checked soon. Maybe have it pressure checked or something. We'll see.
I do wonder why the no-start condition though. I don't see the coolant reservoir overfill at all.
But if your rad wasn't any good, even on the highway it would over-heat, because the engine is working hard. So the rad is still not totally gone yet.
The part about the coolant overfilling: Next time the gauge goes higher than 3/4, try pulling over and shutting the car off. When you lift the hood, if it is overheating, you'd see the coolant transfering into the reservoir.
Also, if the fans are turning, are they going fast enough?
Or are they just barely turning?
And, is the problem worse with the A/C on? When you notice the car starting to overheat, turning off the A/C should help.
I'm not sure about the no-start. I believe the over-heating is contributing to the problem.
However, when I turned on the ignition (not starting the engine), I noticed that the fans did not turn on. Aren't the fans supposed to go on when I turn on the ignition?
If so, are the coolant fan switches wired for 2 speeds? Maybe it turns on for the lower temp setting (thus slower fan setting), but does not switch to the high fan speed setting when it should.
I'll do a complete cooling system revamp......change the fan switch and the engine/fuel injection's coolant temperature sensor, and flush the radiator this week.
Let's see if that fixes it.
I have a mazda protege 1993 SE. I have a similar problem... When I start the car (in cold temp), it runs perfectly. When it almost reaches its optimal temp, and I drive in city (lights/traffic), and shift 1/2/3 or just step on the gas while stopped, the engine stumbles too. This can last for 10 minutes and disapears. But if I do highway (from cold engine to full temp) I feel nothing. Again, the difference in my case is that I can always start the car when its fully heated. The problem seems to be gone in summer (I'm from Quebec), but the stumbling came back when I drove through a big puddle of water even with a hot engine. Can the car be sensitive to humidity? I found out it might be the coolant sensor, just like you guys mention, but in my case, the temp gage doesn't show abnormal temps. Engine light doesn't go on either.
Any advice??
Thanks!
Where I live, the auto-wreckers sell PCM's for
Protege for about $100. They come with a 30 - 90 day
guarantee. I have replaced used electronics and they
have worked now for years.
I'm not familiar with the part, and don't know if you
can change it yourself or not.
Just call up every wrecker you can until you find one.
Recently, it has started blinking the O/D light once in a while, which goes away if i turn off the engine and turn back on. Shifts are somewhat rough. I can also hear some sort of a noise when shifting in lower gears. Hasnt given any problems on the highway yet - works absolutely fine when running at speeds.
Having read all messages rgding auto-trannies on proteges, can someone give me a couple of options to diagnose issues for the autotransmission?
Thanks
I was thinking about adding "SeaFoam", but I would prefer only to apply it to the gas tank and engine oil.
1)Is the check engine light on at all?
2)Have you scanned the engine for a code?
3)When the "O/D Off" light is blinking, can you
get into overdrive, or does it stay in 3rd or 2nd gear?
4)Is the air hose in good shape- no cracks, or air leaking out?
Okay, just to give you more info, go to this site:
protege5.ugly.net/
Then go into page 15, that's DTC TABLE[FS]...01-02B-15
If you look across the headings, DTC NO.,Condition,MIL,
then "O/D off indicator light", follow that down to
P0122 TP circuit low input, and P0123 TP circuit high
input, you notice that those both show Flashing, right?
I was informed by a mechanic that the computer does this
blinking thing just as a safety mode, possibly to prevent
bigger damage, and it makes the driver stop the car.
Your car may possibly be in the early stages.
By the way, I can't take any credit for that other site I
mentioned, since someone else mentioned it here first.
Look for ENGINE, then ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC [ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM (FS)], click on 01-02B,
then go to page 15, DTC TABLE, etc.
Can anyone tell me what it means? The mechanic said it will be an electrical problem with a solenoid.
What are my options in this case? I have an extended warranty on this car.
1) No check engine light on
2) P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio code returned
3) I will have to check if it goes into 2nd or 3rd if OD light is blinking. Till now it has always happened on local roads, so I have immediately pulled over.
4) The air hose DOES seem to have some cracks in it, and air IS leaking out.