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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    If you go back to that site:
    protege5.ugly.net/
    then look under: TRANSMISSION/ TRANSAXLE 05
    ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC, click on 05-02.
    Look under DTC PO734, and it tells you to go to
    page 30. When you go to page 30, there are 11 possible
    causes for that condition, including ATX fluid low,
    solenoids may be stuck, etc.
    I guess you'll have to go thru the diagnostic procedure.
    I don't want to confuse things any further, but the air hose being cracked suggests TP or Speed sensor.
    I noticed when I got my scans done, some shops are
    better than others. Some places won't pick up all codes.
  • rosenfield6rosenfield6 Member Posts: 1
    single female with dog moving across country. my o/d light was flashing on, a different feeling to the gas pedal so decided to pull over. my non-stickshift '99 protege LX w/100k miles was not shifting correctly, stopped at a gas station/service center at the last exit on the east side of albuquerque, nm; when i came back out after speaking with the tech. there was a "pissing stream" of tran. fluid coming from a cylinder about 8 inches long a few inches diameter with a band around it near my driver side tire. i'm pretty sure all my tran. fluid is out of my car. SO...what to do? no shop is open until monday and again, i'm moving across the country with no connections in new mexico. basically, any advise to who i should take it to and how not to be taken advantage of - like do i need a new transmission or could it possibly be something else by the above discription? i'd appreciate any help! -stuck in a hotel indefinately.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    The air hose is easy to remove- there's only 2 screws on those circular clamps, and just ease off the wires and things near the top. You can use duct tape as a temporary measure to seal the cracks. A brand new air hose is about $ 40. I asked my mechanic and he said the air leaking out could screw up the TPS or the PCM.
  • phillygrlphillygrl Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone can help me here...
    my protege is having technical difficulties to put it lightly. the car would turn off while driving, I had to jump it 2 times to get it home. I bought a new battery for it, changed the spark plugs, oil...it ran for 3 days and then it wouldn't turn on and the battery was dead.
    I was told to check the alternator which I did...3 hours later it had been removed and checked at pep boys, after 2 tests it had passed. today I bought another new battery, new battery cable wires, fuses hoping this might be the solution...if anyone lives in the Philadelphia, Pa area..I make a mean [non-permissible content removed] london broil an baked potatoe and chicken parmesean! *hint hint hint*
  • pattywpattyw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 masda Protege and all of a sudden I can't even turn the key. Any ideas. The steering wheel is not locked.
  • adisaradisar Member Posts: 4
    Hi sambo4

    Used duct tape to temporarily fix the air-hose. Seems to make quite a difference. Idling smoothly, feel lesser vibrations....need to change the hose soon though. Still need to get the transmission checked.
    Thanks for the tip...
  • katek8katek8 Member Posts: 2
    please help. I have a 97' mazda protege. the a/c works for about 20 minutes and then gets not cool. then continues on the pattern of cooloing and then not so cool. had the ac compresser replaced 2.5 yrs. ago, and had a fan replaced 2 months as well as freon, and an ac check. please help! Thanx K8
  • ayipayip Member Posts: 1
    I just changed my protege 92' brake pads now my brakes goes all the way down it is like I have no brakes at all, I dont understand what happend, I checked brake fluid level and it is fine, and there is no bleeding since fluid level is fine please help..
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
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  • pblair7pblair7 Member Posts: 1
    I recently unplugged the negative battery cable on mazda protege 200 to get the check engine light to go off. I was able to get the light to go off but the car runs like total crap now. I must have wiped out its running memory or something. Does anyone know how to fix this?? Thanks, Paul
  • vittuvittu Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 protege lx 2.0 with only 30kmiles my idle was recently
    Rough & low with check engine light on I had my egr cleaned out & smoothed out the idle but its still low only at about 500rpm b4 i was at least at 750 or so any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Some possibilities: vacuum leak, malfunctioning airflow meter, crack in rubber air intake snorkel. Check for any TSB's on the subject at Alldatadiy.com ($15 for a year).

    Also, if you take off the air intake snorkel, it is a good idea to clean off the throttle plate with an old toothbrush, rag, and solvent as it gets covered with black carbon over time.
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    Can someone throw light on this please?
    The second fan doesnt come on, making A/C not so cold. I live in florida, so on a really hot day, the engine overheats with the A/C on.

    Technician said pressure sensor is bad and not easily available. Can someone point to aftermarket pressure sensor and/or another solutions

    thanks!!!
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I have the same problem with the secondary fan, which is the passenger-side one. It's only to come on after a certain temperature is reached.
    I removed the fan and tested it, and it does work.
    Just connect one wire to each of the battery terminals,
    and then the end of those wires into the fan connection.
    I didn't know which was plus or minus on the fan, but it's only two choices.
    My fuses are okay too.
    My next step is to test the wiring harness that goes into the fan.
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    the fan itself is good. technician did directly give it power and it blew decent amount of air. although i did notice most of the harness/connector are rusted, but he didnt think much of it.

    btw is it pressure switch or temperature switch or both?
    i see two sensors near the bubble window on the A/C line,
    on left front fender. dont know which one of these to jumper.
    can this be replaced at home or does the freon have to come out first?

    thanks
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I was reading trouble-shooting possibilities:

    "condenser fan relay is stuck"

    "short to GND between condenser fan relay and
    PCM terminal 45"

    "circuit between condenser fan relay and fan motor short to battery supply line"
  • mazcarmazcar Member Posts: 7
    Hi there,
    I have a slightly different problem on my 96 LX. The engine temp goes all the way up to 'H' when the ac is working. I have to shut it down then the temp comes down a bit, but hovers around 3/4 way to the H mark. Coolant is at the right mark. Also, can we check the gas level at home. The AC though seems to be cooling alright. Problem is worst in city traffic. Do u guys think there is a prob with the radiator? There is no leak in it.
    Please advise what can be done :sick:
    Thanks in advance!
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    its the same problem with mine. A/C works but engine overheats (ie goes to H) on a real hot day...try putting A/C on max, open hood and see if second fan comes on after a while...if it does come on, then the problem is different...

    when car is around 50 mph its not a problem bcoz the air hitting the condensor from outside will be enuf to cool it, mostly...
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    btw, my car is 92 mazda protege LX, 1.8L DOHC w/ automatic xmission...
    thanks for the trouble-shooting tips...i'll try them out...
  • adam317adam317 Member Posts: 2
    I'm a relatively new '03 Protege5 owner. The A/C intermittently flickers on and off when the fan speed is on 2 -- it works fine on 1, 3, and 4. The problem appears to be more frequent on hot days. (Of course, the day I take it to the mechanic is the coolest this summer, and they couldn't duplicate the problem.) Any ideas as to what is going on? Car has 42k.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Try this site concerning relays:

    http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodules/relays/101.html

    I'm still working on my car.

    I don't think the pressure switch is involved, because that switch monitors head pressure and shuts down the compressor if it exceeds a preset limit.

    You can also try unplugging the clip from the thermoswitch
    located on the thermostat housing. If the fan goes on, then you found your problem. If not, then I still think it's your relay, or a connection problem.

    You could switch the condensor fan relay with a similiar relay, (maybe the horn relay ? ) just to test it.

    Also, check for corroded relay under the fuse box and support wiring/harness.
  • katek8katek8 Member Posts: 2
    i had a similiar problem. although mine would stop working on the highway, driving 75 mph, 17 mile trip to work. At first it would work intermittently for a while, and the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. It ended up being the thermastat, check to see if it is higher than normal. the car finally one day almost over-heated and the problem was solved w/ the a/c.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Forgot to mention:

    I'm not too familiar with '92s, so you may have to
    ground the thermoswitch connector, either to chassis or
    negative battery terminal.

    good luck
  • pvank1pvank1 Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem on fan speed 2 when it is hot. Makes no sense to me. It is not overheating.
  • mrkris8912mrkris8912 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I have a 1997 Mazda Protege LX 1.5L

    When I first bought the car the seat belt warning light and tone would operate properly when you turned the ignition. Now a few months later the light no longer comes on along with the tone, I saw the connection from the seat belt fastener to the floor of the car under the drivers seat and that is properly inserted, does anyone know what else I could try to look at? I also checked the fuses, they're ok. Another problem is my low fuel light to my knowledge has never worked correctly, is there anyway to check if it's just a bulb out or if the problem is more significant? Thanks!

    Kris
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    check the key carefully....you might have broken off some 'teeth' in it...(HINT: compare with the same size spare)
  • essennessenn Member Posts: 7
    look at the engine light when it stumbles see if it flickers. get the code out of computer (thru diagnostic connector behind battery on my 92 protege)....problem with engine light is its on only while there is malfunction, but it stores the code in computer anyway, so you'll get the code

    mine did similar thing for a month, also started stalling...can get very dangerous bcoz steering locks up on turns...i got the coolant sensor changed, problem gone.
  • kjohnson7kjohnson7 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 mazda protege with the 1.5 DOHC. i am replacing the engine because of high mileage and i was wondering if any one knows of another engine that fits that car. kinda like the civic and the integra swap every one does. or maybe of just some engine mods you can think of. i mainly deal with hotrods and domestic v8's so this is my first import. any input would help greatly. thanks
    kris
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    1.8L from the Protege of the same year for more horsepower and torque. I believe it is the same as the MX-3 1.8 liter. Lots of modifications are available for this engine.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Make that the MX-5 Miata with the 1.8L. The MX-3 had 1.6 and 1.9 liter engines.
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    Some info of interest here:

    http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MX5Engine.html
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    I had the exact problem and the dealer replaced the falty AC Control Unit (under warranty) with an updated unit. This is a know problem.

    The control unit is in the dash and controls the fan and AC position switches and/or cables. Part # BL8F-190D.

    This was on a 2002 LX.
  • cdh1313cdh1313 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Protege 196K miles. About 8 months ago I had the head gasket replaced. Monday I noticed the overflow "boiling" and the smell of antifreeze. Temp guage seems to be working and normal, no oil in water or water in oil. Replaced cap, no help. Drained radiator, clean and green. Refilled, got to operating temp. and test drove as soon as I got home I opened hood and opened cap, NO PRESSURE? I cannot find any OBVIOUS leaks. Head Gasket? Cracked head? Radiator cracked? Don't know where to go next, HELP! :cry:
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Here is a thread from a Honda Civic discussion pertaining to the same issue.

    http://www.auto-more.com/detail-347331.html

    You may need to pressure test the radiator to see if it is leaking. If not, the replacement radiator cap could be bad. If not, you could have a cracked or warped head. I would think that whoever replaced the head gasket would have checked this before doing the work.
  • gabby72gabby72 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am having the same problem with my Mazda Protoge...were you able to fix the problem? I have not had my idle adjusted because I don't know where it is. If you know how I can do this please let me know.
  • lon5lon5 Member Posts: 3
    Hi..I have a 00 protege LX auto i'm hearing a rattling, clunking sound whenever i go over rough roads..did changed the struts it wasn't it..i just changed the rotors today..and i still hear the rattling noise..its getting me frustrated :mad: ..i read some of the post here could it be the sway bar?..stabilizer link?..control arm?..bushig?...Pls help. :)

    Thnx
  • sh8dybrady120sh8dybrady120 Member Posts: 1
    yea so, its been the longest time since my brakes didnt work too well. i drive it cus i really dont have much of a choice but when i press on the brakes at first, it's really loose. then the more i start to press down it gets tighter and starts to creak. i have no idea as to why it's like this. i hit a curb a few months back maybe thats why, but im not sure. im over a year due for an oil change maybe thats why also.

    please help me out here. :cry:
  • wojoohwojooh Member Posts: 2
    My son-in-law has exactly the same experience. 1999 Protege with 85,000 miles. What do I need to do to fix it?
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    I've had those sounds in the last few years.
    In my experience it was the strut-mounts that were the
    noisest. But I've had to change the stabilizer links as well. The protege's suspension seems to be built more
    for handling rather than soft/luxury ride, so you're
    always going to have a hard bumpy ride with some noise.
    Can you tell if the noise is front or back?
  • lon5lon5 Member Posts: 3
    To sambo4...the noise is coming on the front passenger side..sorta like something is loose..the strut is new, and rotors..and i'm planning to change the stabilizer link but i want to make sure this time..did the noise disappeared when u changed your stabilizer link?

    thnx :):)
  • sambo4sambo4 Member Posts: 22
    You can check your link by raising the car, remove the wheel, and try moving the stabilizer link. It may be loose, or may be broken off one end, like in my case, and it would keep hitting, metal to metal, when I drove over
    a bump.
    When you changed the struts, I hope they checked the strut-mounts, because they can rust out.
  • lon5lon5 Member Posts: 3
    thx for the help sambo4..i'll try to do it over the weekend.i'll let you know thx
  • kjam143kjam143 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Protege DX model and I'm having some serious issues. If anyone can help it would be sooooo greatly appreciated. My car won't pass emissions since 3/06. I've had it checked out by many mechanics, state testing facilities and no one can assist me in getting this corrected. I've had the Catalytic converter and exhaust manifold replaced, had the system reset and drove it 1000 miles to reset everything and everytime I go back to the emissions facility, it fails. The same three monitors are never ready: Catalyst, Oxygen Sensor, and the EGR System. I don't know what to do so any advice would help a lot. Also, when she sits for a day or so, she smokes heavily upon starting her up. But she runs like a dream... and that's the tripped out part about it. :confuse: :sick: :cry:
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Okay....finally solved the no-start problem. Turns out to be a bad cam sensor.

    As far as the heating is concerned......it still runs hot after running it for a while during 100+deg weather...like right now. When I turn on the heater, the temperature goes down to normal levels. I notice this while going uphill or when sitting in traffic for a while....all during 100+degree weather.

    Radiator maybe? Clogged cat? Anyone?
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr Member Posts: 112
    (01' LX 2.0-sedan) Hi, I have posted this question before but I need help again! :confuse:
    My first question is when i'm driving and sometimes want/need to quickly accelerate, my car almost feels to get stuck and extremely (let my emphasize "extremely"!) slowly, increases speed and believe it or not, i'll have the gas petal to the floor!! I even tried to release and press the gas again but same thing. It gets really fustrating! My car used to pick up & go very quickly and I have been maintaning it (@ dealership) all this time too... I have had the major tune-up @ 30 & 60k, etc, had fuel injection flushed, and when I have explained the problem prior, they did not find anything wrong.
    Second question is sometimes when I am driving on regular roads (yes, smooth roads too), I hear a knocking sound coming from under the car. This doesn't happen when braking or when on the freeway. Any idea what it could be?
    Please help! Thank you in advance!!
  • adam317adam317 Member Posts: 2
    I found the solution to my A/C problem, and want to share it for others with the same issue! There is a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem; it is number 0700503. I took it in to my Mazda dealer, and they replaced the Heater Control module free of charge (it is still under factory warranty). Problem solved!
  • lifeisrich1lifeisrich1 Member Posts: 9
    My 91 Protege DOHC had an annoying random miss at idle. Under 2000 rpm in second or higher gears it would buck and miss at times, making driving annoying. These "fixes" solved the problem for me.
    1. Even though plugs looked good, bought new KGB plugs and gave them proper gap.
    2. The spark plug wires each run down a three or four inch plastic sleeve. Sometimes the wire can ride up in the sleeve and not make contact with the plug. I adjusted all of these to make sure that when the sleeve snapped into place that the wire was firmly on the plug.
    3. Changed the distributor cap.
    4. Scraped and cleaned the rotor lightly.
    5. Checked rubber intake hose from air cleaner to intake manifold for cracks and leaks. There were none. Found four bolts missing on air cleaner cover and replaced them.
    6. Added a five ounce bottle of Lucas injector cleaner.
    7. Spark plug wires looked new so they were not replaced.

    The car now is totally smooth and without a miss at idle and no bucking at all even when pulling at 1,000 rpm in second or higher gear. It is a delight to drive and like a different car. Sometimes at idle it is so smooth that you don't know the engine is running. Good luck!

    RichieRich
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Hehehe......

    Hopefully you meant NGK plugs. :D
  • urbanekurbanek Member Posts: 8
    My 2002 at 60,345 mi with only plugs changed at 32,000 mi. Problem showed within the last week, rainy. Going in for attention and TLC tomorrow. My guess is 1)plugs early 2)ignition wire harness 3)pollution sensor at end of life. Hopefully the error code will tell the story get it fixed and back happy on the road again, zoom, zoom.

    Any feedback as to failure would be appreciated. I will log what was found. Thanks all. Now back to my Bike, Yamaha Silverado 1600cc. Another fun toy!
  • harbihoharbiho Member Posts: 8
    Okay.....so finally fixed this!!!

    No-start was a result of a bad cam sensor.

    Heating was because of a bad thermostat.
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