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Volvo V70 Wagon Experience

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Comments

  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Finally had the opportunity to take our new V70 on a long vacation trip. To my surprise, we got 32 mpg on the highway! I was very impressed. I think it was rated at 26 or something like that?

    Anyway, very nice ride, we did have some stop and go traffic and a backup at one point, but all said and done, 5 hours of driving mostly interstate, and the info message claimed we were at 32 mpg. I'll take that.
  • gmwaltersgmwalters Member Posts: 20
    They will do that on the interstate if it isn't too hilly and if you drive at the posted speed limit. Over 2800 miles I have not reset the avg mpg register and mine shows 30.6.Probably 80/20 mix between rolling interstate/city. I use mostly premium fuel. Do you use premium fuel or just regular?
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Shell Premium.
  • volvoprospectvolvoprospect Member Posts: 5
    Am going to check this car out from a private party.

    It's about a 90 min drive. Can anyone out there help w/a VIN check?

    yv1sw59v642349171

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Go to Carfax.com and enter the number. You'll pay a few bucks for the service; well worth doing to get an objective response.

    Some folks have said the Carfax reports are not always completely up to date. While not perfect, it's probably the best source a consumer can use to check out used cars.
  • volvoprospectvolvoprospect Member Posts: 5
    Ok all, volvoprospect is now volvo owner.

    Thank you to biancar for replying to my 7-10 post. As it turns out the seller of this car had carfax access and we looked up the history together. Original owner had all dealer service into the high 60k range.

    The car is for my college-age daughter, and she'll take delivery in a week or so...

    Here are a couple of rookie questions:

    1. It comes with only one key (switchblade style remote.) I'd like to get an additional one just in case off loss. Is the dealer my only option? I posted a similar question in the maintenance forum and someone was nice enough to say a locksmith MIGHT be able to help me.

    2. The front tires are much more worn that the rear and I'll need to replace them soon. Anyone have history in this area? successes/failures?

    I've read nearly every post in this forum from message 1000 to last and am very appreciative of all I've seen so far.

    Curious if fedlawman still has his '04 V70

    (oddly enuf lawman, the seller of my V70 also has a Lotus in his stable.)

    Thanks to all for your posts thus far.
  • ronsteveronsteve Member Posts: 1,190
    Welcome to the Volvo family! I've got a '06 2.5T that I've had for 3 years and 55K of its 66K miles. As to your rookie questions:

    1. I don't know of any good way to avoid the dealer when you're talking about the switchblade keys, because I'm pretty sure they're chipped.

    2. Front tires being more worn than the rear on a car that age can be a sign that the previous owner stopped rotating them and replaced in pairs. But if the wear is uneven from side to side or across a single tire, definitely make sure you get the alignment checked.

    Were you thinking about replacing all four or two at a time? And were you looking for advice on brands/types of replacement tires? Not entirely sure what your question is here.
    2015 Acura RDX AWD / 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE
  • ronsteveronsteve Member Posts: 1,190
    Apologies for the double, but I did find some useful info about the keys while looking something else up on the Volvo website...

    Volvo Smart Key Technology Update for Volvo Model Year Vehicles 2002-2010

    You can also obtain additional or duplicate remote control keys from certain independent repair facilities and locksmiths that are qualified to make remote control keys. Each key must be programmed to work with your vehicle. A list of independent repair facilities and/or locksmiths known to Volvo that can cut and code replacement keys can be found on the Volvo website at www.volvocars.com/us/keys or can be obtained by calling the Volvo Customer Care at 1-800-458-1552.
    2015 Acura RDX AWD / 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE
  • redwingwagonredwingwagon Member Posts: 3
    I found out the hard way my upper tail markers are all out thanks to a diode bridge. Tried finding this part online. Apparently a dealer only thing. Searching for a junkyard. $210 from the dealer.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Congratulations!

    Yes, we are still enjoying our V70.Getting my list together for the 120,000 mile service.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    edited August 2010
    Never heard of a diode bridge. Let me do a little checking...

    EDIT: I found a diode bridge for the S80 (which is the same "platform" as the V70. It is part #30655381 and costs $67 from swedishautoparts.com.

    http://www.swedishautoparts.com/shop/search.php?MaxCount=10&gogo=2&extra=diode+b- ridge&myCat1=V70&a1=Start+Search

    I would call them and ask them to do a parts search for you. Maybe you'll get lucky. 800-774-4496.
  • volvoprospectvolvoprospect Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply ronsteve...

    I'll probably go to dealer for a spare key and or remote unless I find a reasonable and reliable alternative. (right now, it looks like the dealer, but one never knows.)

    On the tires: the fronts are worn pirelli tires, the rear are michelin and in pretty good shape.

    My thought was to run the fronts as is until autumn (front end does no pull either left or right and the ride is smooth) and replace them with m+s or snow tires for the winter. (after winter I'd replace all 4 tires and have a viable set of winter tires for the front end next year.)

    That's the plan in my head. Question is this: can anyone out there who has driven a V70 fwd on snow/ice tell me if they think I'll NEED snow tires? It's a very heavy car compared to what I'm used to driving and I worry about the wintertime handling.

    or--is a set of new tires (which I'll do one way or the other) sufficient? (we're talking Indpls winter here, which isn't severe by any means...but we do get some tricky winter driving nonetheless.)

    Thanks again

    Steve
  • volvoprospectvolvoprospect Member Posts: 5
    Thank you. Hopefully I'll be able to post future happiness here.

    I'm grateful that this forum exists as a resource.
  • volvoprospectvolvoprospect Member Posts: 5
    Thank you on the double-post ronsteve, I'll check it out!
  • ronsteveronsteve Member Posts: 1,190
    New tires should easily do the trick. I spent most of the 1990s in downstate Illinois and Indiana (Indy, West Lafayette, Champaign/Urbana) and got by with all-season tires on a variety of cars, all of them much lesser vehicles than the V70 with its traction control. If you can't get through in your Volvo without snow tires, it's bad enough that not many people in Indy will be getting anywhere.
    2015 Acura RDX AWD / 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    CONSIDERING THIS PURCHASE: I'm having a local certified Volvo specialist (much trusted by friends) check this car out tomorrow. I could hardly believe how tight and smooth it felt even after driving a couple of 1994 era 850's that were smooth as silk but looking tired. Surprised that the interior is spotless and leather is not cracked. Exterior shines. Serviced locally so I can request those records. Timing belt replaced at 180K.

    Needs: I bop around town, carry a bike, a country stretch or mountain ski a couple of times in winter...around 10K a year. Enjoy good handling and uumph, but not a speedo.

    With 213,000 miles (2 local owners) am I crazy or what? $2500 asking price. Needs tires. Waiting for the mehcanic's verdict. Any pointers welcome!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Any car this age is going to require regular maintenance. If you are going to rely on paying a mechanic to do the work, costs are going to mount quickly.

    If you are handy and willing/able to shop online for parts and do your own routine maintenance (fluids, filters, brakes, plugs, bulbs, etc.), then it sounds like a great car.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    I'm off to see the local Volvo cerified independent my friends trust. Able to handle the basics myself and keep the tools in the car. So perhaps this will work! Thanks for your feedback. I've babied Citroens and Peugeots for many years...how hard can a Volvo be? Looks much easier to work on.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    If you have kept French cars on the road, the Volvo will be no problem. It's actually built just like a German car under the skin - lot's of Bosch, Ate, Mahle OE parts. There's a lot of aftermarket support online, and everything is easy to reach and easy to work on.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    Fedlawman, I appreciate your encouragement! The Volvo guy prounounced it a worthy car ready for a timing belt in 4K and a few minor issues.

    Their mechanic verififed regular oil changes every 3K and a few repairs we questioned --so this looks promising. I've made an offer which will be presented to the boss (the wife) and hope this is the car for me.

    My priority is tires. in the Pacific NW where we have all seasons (wet winters and skiing occassionally) I'd go for Pirelli, but I hear other V70 XC's prefer Micheliens for their slightly longer mileage. Thoughts? The Continental Federals on it are toast.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Depends...

    I'm in Seattle and chose touring tires on our V70 because they ride smooth and quiet. They are fine in the rain, but not so good on ice/snow.

    I think the XC leans more towards SUV (crossover) tires, so I'm not sure I'm the one to recommend tires to you. However, 2 great all-season "sport sedan" tires I can recommend are the Pirelli PZero Nero and the Michelin Pilot A/S.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    fedlawman, I'm just north of you!

    What do you consider a 'touring tire'. I know locals go for Continentals. A specialist told me he liked Pirellis for 'all weather grip' but many choose Michelins for their longevity (brand). Wondering how the AWD turbo eats tires with that beefy steering. The car I offered to buy (still hanging out for an response) had really worn fronts (contientals). I had a more sedate wagon that did OK with Toyos' but it was not a performance vehicle.

    Thank you again for the exchange...I am learning a lot here!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Well, the tire manufacturers each manufacture dozens of different tires. For example, Continental makes the ContiSportContact, ContiExtremeContact, ContiPremiumContact, ContiProContact, ContiTouringContact...well, you get the idea.

    You should decide what characteristics are important to you.

    For example, rank from top to bottom the importance or dry grip, wet grip, responsiveness (sharp reflexes), quiet ride, smooth ride, snow/ice traction. Let me know and I'll help you decide.

    BTW, my Volvo has Goodyear Assurance ComforTred passenger tires. My BMW has Pirelli PZero Nero ultra-high performance all-season tires.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I hope I'm in the right area to ask about a 1999 Volvo V70XC AWD wagon I have an opportunity to buy. The owner(who, by the way, owns an auto repair shop) says the car runs great. I haven't driven it yet or heard it run at this time, and I'm not sure of the mileage on it. I do know that the back drive shaft is out of the car right now as there were issues with it according to what I'm being told, so right now the vehicle is FWD only. It will cost between 3 to 4 hundred dollars to have this resolved and make it AWD once again. Now the car LOOKS good, but while I've heard Volvos are generally very reliable and last a long time, maintenance and repairs can cost big $$$ which I don't have. The owner is asking $3000.00 for the car. Have any of you ever had this model or know of someone who does/did? What are some of the major complaints with this model? Any help you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    Great cars. My Volvo friends swear by theirs. I'm also in the market. What is your mileage on this vehicle? I was offered a well maintained '98 with 212K for $2,500 but it needed a timing belt, tires (NOW), brakes (all within 3500K) which added $1500 to the price. The timing belt is $800 but they last 70K
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Thanks for responding, Virtu. At this point, I'm not sure what we're going to do about this Volvo V70 XC. I may try to get the owner to come down in price, perhaps. Since he owns an auto repair shop that I use and recommend to others, I don't want to place myself in a position that if I were to buy the car from him and there'd be a lot of problems with it, we could hurt our friendship, because the bottom line is that we need a reliable car that we can depend on. But the thing is just sitting there on his lot doing nothing, so I'm tempted to make a stab at it. I'm not sure of the mileage on this car, but Joe did say that when he bought it a few years ago, it ran well and everything worked until there was a problem with the rear drive shaft. He claims this is a 3 to 4 hundred dollar repair. My problem is I don't even have the 3 grand asking price at the moment and I certainly wouldn't have a reserve for potential problems either. Bottom line is that I may just have to pass on the car. Thanks anyway for your input and have a great day.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    If the person is a mechanic who is sellling and has the ability to fix the rear drive shaft then why not ask for that repair to be included in the cost? I know several mechanics who resells their own cars (they refurbish) and some offer a guarantee. Worth asking since they know what's likely to be needed.
  • jawselljawsell Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 v70R with 139K and I am experiencing the exact same problem. Dealer said all looks good with awd, recently put close to 1500 miles on roadtrip and no problems but that noise is making me nervous. Also I hear a clicking noise when turning tight at slow speed. The car runs incredibly on the highway as if there is no problem and I'm getting sick of worrying and constantly listening for that or any new sounds. Did you ever find out what the noise was? I am just finding this listing over a year after your post and would appreciate any answers or suggestions.
  • virtuvirtu Member Posts: 8
    I have driven several 1995-2000 Volvo wagons and like the AWD Cross Country but most have deferred maintenance issues which run up the acquisition cost. Seeking AWD, good clean interior and paint under 200K one owner, good tires and up to date timing belts, etc. Basic sport package with AC and all working electrics. My limit is $3000. Like sandstone and gray colors to match our Pacific NW dirt. If you have this vehicle consider selling it privately rather than a wholesale trade to someone who will appreciate and baby it! I'll send a temporary email if you respond to this message and we can email or skype. Thanks!
  • sonofadockersonofadocker Member Posts: 12
    I just purchased a 1998 v70 xc - 177,000 miles.
    I knew it needed a Heater Blower Resistor per owner and one tire.
    My test drive I knew the right front tire had a bad belt/buldge. I ignored the tire sound when the car steered straight or right. Turning just a bit left the silence was nice.
    I paid $2100.00 for the car.Asking price was $2800.00.
    Went right to the tire store - Insisted I buy four tires due to AWD. $420.00.
    Up on the lift they said it needed one tie rod end and one ball joint.
    I left there with my new mounted tires and went to Auto Parts Store.
    $300.00 worth of parts ( control arms w/ball joints and tie rod ends) I did that myself in my driveway in 1.5 hours with hand tools and pry bar.
    I made an appt for a wheel alignment next week.
    The car steers straight as an arrow but I still have the horrible sound. I assume it might be the left front wheel bearing ?
    Regardless the body is like new - leather interior is like new- it was a Florida car all its life until now ( in NJ) - I think I did alright - see what the shop says during the alignment appointment.
    19.7 mpg I think the only option I dont have is multi disc player.
  • vovo74vovo74 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    We've had Volvo's in our family for the last 15 years - starting with an old 244, then an 850 and now we drive a 2001 V70 (135,000 miles on it and going strong) and my wife has a 2008 XC90.

    My V70 is getting on a bit, although I will probably keep it until something major happens to it, and I like the look of new V60 wagon. However I really want to move over to a diesel for the mileage and unfortunately/fortunately the only thing really on the market in a wagon is a VW Jetta TDI (or something much more expensive).

    Why doesn't Volvo bring the diesels they already use elsewhere in the world? The D5 is popular in Europe so it must be a good engine......
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Hi, Sonofadocker, it has been a few months since I originally posted my question on this Volvo model. I will not pursue the one I first spoke of- the 99' V70 XC Cross country. I went down to the lot back in early November and asked to see it up close, and it is pretty rough. They must have had a dog inside and it is full of dog hair, the front leather seats would have to be redone if you wanted it to look good, and I couldn't even start it or find out how many miles were on it because of a dead battery. The more I went along the car, the worse I felt about it. I raised the hood to pull the engine dipstick out and the plastic ring just broke in my hand. The car would need 4 new tires, and the front rotors look as though someone jackhammered on them so you know you'd need a brake job off the bat. So THIS one ain't gonna happen.

    Since then, I found another V70 AWD that LOOKS by the pictures to be in pristine shape. It's a 2001 with 133K on it for $5500. It's about 50 miles from me but just because it LOOKS nice, and it does, I would have no way to know how the car was taken care of. I would ask this dealer if there was a Carfax, or if there was any paperwork detailing just how the car was maintained. According to my local Volvo dealer who I called for some advice, he claims Volvo recommends the timing belt be changed at 105K, and this car has 133K on it. Was the belt changed? And if the guy says yes but has no documentation for it, how could I really be sure. The Volvo dealer says that if I couldn't be 100% sure about it, he'd want to replace the belt because if I didn't and it broke, I'd be looking at a major expense since the motor is an interference fit.

    And to fuel more interest in these cars, there is a shop right here in my home town called Integrated Auto Service that has specialized in these cars for over 30 years. I completely forgot about this business that always has this and other model Volvos for sale. They COMPLETELY recondition them and when they leave this lot, they are absolutely great and he backs everything he sells with a warranty. He has a 2002 V70 AWD in stock now but he wants top dollar for it, like 8 grand! But he took the time to go over a lot of issues with these cars and says that while it's nothing for them to reach 200Kand more, you must maintain them properly and that can cost a nice dollar if you don't work on cars yourself. I do consider myself fairly handy at auto repair, but never worked on a Volvo. Are they that much more complicated than other vehicles? This guy's response to me when I told him I had an OBD2 code scanner was that Volvo has proprietary codes and that is what is more likely to be set than a generic code that my scannerr would be capable of reading. He also said that he charges $800 bucks for a timing belt replacement because he not only changes the belt, but the gears, tensioner, and water pump as well, because should I have an issue with the water pump, he has to tear everything apart to get to it.

    I agree proper maintenance is key to any car's longevity. The problem is that I don't have a lot of money to make everything right like this man says is imperative. He charges $400 bucks per axle for brakes! I think that's insanity, I mean, are these parts really expensive, or what? I could see it if you had to replace the rotors and you wanted good ones, but you should NOT have to replace rotors everytime you need pads, do you agree with that? Certainly they could be machined at LEAST once unless you're really hard on brakes. And to boot, he says this model need a steady diet of at least 89 or preferably 93 octane fuel, and needless to say, you know that can be expensive. He says you CAN use 87, but you will not get the performance or mileage out of the car if you do.

    I know this is long winded, folks, and I do apologize. But I just needed to make an informed decision on this model and to those of you who have them and love them, I wish you a good day.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    That 2001 V70 AWD is STILL available at this time. I did pay a visit yesterday to the business here in my hometown and speak with the owner and I could sense how much pride he has in his business. He has 2 salespeople there who do NOT work on commission. He took me out on the lot and showed me what he has to offer. He has about 5 V70's, ranging from the 2002 I saw and sat in yesterday up to a 2008 that he wants top buck for. I started and ran, but didn't drive this 2002 and it purred like a kitten and was very clean. Those leather seats are just about the most comfortable automobile seats I've ever sat on. He's asking 9K for this one with 92K on it. He assures me that there are no defects in this vehicle and even explained a transmission complaint that some of these(not all, apparently)have had and what Volvo did to solve it. It seems that sometimes when downshifting, the tranny "hunts" so to speak, for the right gear. Part of the solution was to install a shift kit, as per factory instructions. He also says it may be a software problems as well, but that this transmission was solid and told me that if I bought this or any Volvo on his lot, he'd stand by the transmission(in writing as well) for at least 2 years!

    Half of me wants either the 2001 50 miles away or this 2002, and the other half is wondering if I can(or should) take on the expense of owning a Volvo. I asked him if I buy this 2001, can I bring it to you for a complete, unbiased and honest evaluation? He said of course. He said that if I bought his 2002, he would only be seeing me for oil changes(if I took it back to him), because ALL the other work is done: New brakes all around, anything found wrong was fixed, etc. He'd probably make more money off me if I bought something elsewhere and if it wasn't right, well, I guess I'd better have a big wallet. And his '02 has 40K LESS miles than the 2001, but the 2001 is 4000 bucks less. I'll tell ya, folks, decisions, DECISIONS!!!!! Thanks for putting up with my whining!!!!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    edited January 2011
    2001 was the first model year of the new body style and new Aisin 5-speed transmission. I believe most of the transmission problems you've read about are the result of either a lack of service (fluid flush) or improper flush (incorrect fluid used). This transmission required a new fluid (Mobil 3309) that is not compatible with the old Dextron III used by 90% of cars on the road. If the transmission was ever serviced with Dextron III (and I bet more than a few were), failure is inevitable.

    Some reasons why I'm keeping my 2004 V70 is because it's such a nice car, I've maintained it religiously and never had a problem, and it has depreciated so much that it's all but worthless!

    Yes $9000 is a lot for a 2002 V70, but based on your comments, your not going to find a nicer one with so much assurance of it's maintenance condition/history and a warranty. I would pass if you're not looking to keep it for a while, but if you want it for the long haul, then it might be worth it.

    By the way, when you do test drive, check the rebound dampening. My original shocks were all but dead at around 70,000 miles (and we milked them over 90,000). You're probably going to need new ones (and tower mounts too) with either of these cars so factor in another $500 - $1000.

    I can't think of anything else. These cars are basically German under the skin, so if you're used to working on BMW's (Ate, Mahle, Bosch parts), you'll be right at home.

    Happy hunting!
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Thanks, Fedlawman, I do appreciate your advice. Thanks for the tip on the correct trans fluid. This shop in my hometown uses a full synthetic fluid, I wonder if that is the Mobil 3309 you speak of? My biggest issue is trying to convince my wife, who would be driving this car since it'd be for her anyway, that it may be good to look at something noted for it's longevity. And she/I would NOT be putting a lot of miles on this or any other vehicle per year. To give you an example, we turned in our 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee in just before Thanksgiving last year as the lease was up and we couldn't buy it out. The Jeep had only 16,600 miles on it in 3 1/2 years! From what I've heard about these Volvos, if we DO buy one, it'd be likely to ROT rather than have any mechanical issues. If we bought the one at this man's shop with 92K on it and used it just like we used the Jeep, the thing wouldn't have 110K on it in 3 years!

    But I'm not sure I can convince her that the Volvo is the way to go, so I may have to change plans. But I do believe that they are really good, reliable vehicles, and I thank those of you who have responded to me. Take care and God Bless!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    If it's synthetic, it's not 3309. But there are a few synthetics that are compatible. If you do decide on the V70, be very careful about that or you could be buying a ticking time bomb.

    There's plenty of info on the web about it.
  • ronica54ronica54 Member Posts: 1
    There is a noise/buzzing coming from the back door. Does anybody know what this is and how to make it stop? Also is it common to have cabin air problems with volvos? This is the second volvo I have owned and I keep having the same problem with contaminate air coming in, ie exhaust from stinky trucks. Any solutions to this?
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Interior rattles can be challenging, but check all the interior panels around the tailgate by tapping on them and listening for noise. Also check the two "doors" on the side are secure. Sometimes stuffing an old rag behind a panel can solve these noises.

    As for the air problem, I don't think Volvo's are any different than any other car. Change the cabin filter and use "recirculate" when you're in traffic.
  • bhanni71bhanni71 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at purchasing a 98 V70, and I would love some insight on the car. Is this a "good" car? How long do they usually last? I'm familiar with the older Volvos, and think they are GREAT. I can't tell you how many of them I have seen with 300k miles plus. Is this Volvo part of that group? How are the turbos on these cars? any insight would be much appreciated!
  • k7hpk7hp Member Posts: 29
    I cannot speak for 98 V70 - I owned a 2003 V70 wagon with turbo (2.4T) - we traded a 95 960 sedan and a 95 960 wagon - big mistake. By June of 08 at 28974 miles - its started failing apart faster than I could get it fixed.
    June 08 - $716 - replaced fuel pump assy and o rings - gas odor so bad afraid to park it in garage . Volvo Factory man said Tough - but about two years later there was a recall and I got most of that back. Then June 09 $1232 right front power door lock , radiator replaced -leaking at plastic seam , at that point they also said I needed upper strut mounts $473 and all lower control arm bushings $650. Aug 09 34717 miles Check engine light came on - ECM upgraded - said need transmission pan reseal $900 and if did transmission flush at same time another $300 - also said CV boots , half shafts , control arms , shocks/rear struts "may require attention".

    Had independent Volvo/Saab garage look at it and got almost same responses . His comment was I should have kept the 960 but even then should figure on $1500 a year repairs/maintenance. Both 960's did have steering rack failures and both had vacuum A/C controls fail and replaced - The wagon also had a radiator and power seat control go bad . So his $1500 a year not too far off.

    This V70 car was never off city streets - never hot rodded - so faced with $2323 repairs "needed" and already $2489 since June of 08 - I started looking .

    When I traded it at end of 09 - the struts were absolutely shot and almost scary to drive - especially bad when cold - not as noisy when hot !

    I could go on about the stumbling on right turns ,hesitation , and drive line "clunk" -(which dealer said was normal ) torque steer etc etc - My wife is/was a Volvo lover for the safety and even she at about 3500 miles said she wished we had just kept one of the 960's.

    Thats my experience with a 2003 V70 2.4T

    Maybe I just got a lemon , maybe its because I live in the hell heat of Phoenix -- but we are retired and the car is always garaged and not sitting in sun all day everyday.

    Yep I have a friend with a 240 sedan and it runs forever !!!!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Why is it that almost everyone who posts here with a horror story either bought their car second-hand or doesn't know / won't reveal the preventative maintenance history of their V70?

    I bought my 2004 V70 new in July 2004. I have changed the engine oil every 5000 - 7500 miles, flushed the transmission fluid, brake fluid, and coolant every 50,000 miles, changed the spark plugs at 60,000, replaced the timing belt (and tensioner, idler pulley, etc.) at 100,000 and installed new shocks at 110,000 (way overdue).

    Except for some small nits early on (a rattle in the cargo area, trip odometer resetting at random, broken rear seat cupholder (kids), and a separated fuel filler neck) that were fixed under warranty, we have enjoyed 120,000 trouble free miles.

    My V70 has proven to be more comfortable and reliable than any of the 4 Honda's I've owned over the years. I plan on keeping it for many years to come.
  • jhrunnergirl74jhrunnergirl74 Member Posts: 1
    Well, I'm sitting here reading the reviews and starting to panic a little. To start off, I began this week all set to buy a 2001 Volvo V40. 104,000 miles. $5100. The owner could not produce documentation that the timing belt has been replaced and the struts needed to be replaced on the front after having a mechanic do a full car inspection. So, I walked. I went to another dealership and he had (4) 2001 V70s. One of them was black with the T5. I fell in love with the power and comfort of this car. I fear my emotions got the best of me since I put down a $500 down payment and I'm taking a hardship loan from my 401K to pay the balance on Friday. It's a 2001, 87,000 miles. Out the door price is $7800.
    My husband and I separated and since both cars were in his name, until we settle, I need a car immediately. I have always driven either a Honda or Toyota, but I wanted something different.
    Now, I'm a little (OK, maybe REALLY) scared. I'm on a very limited income and have 4 children that I'm sharing custody with. I cannot afford to buy a car that will have constant repair issues. Should I walk away and just eat the $500 deposit. PLEASE HELP! ????
  • k7hpk7hp Member Posts: 29
    Fedlawman - these are my records with my 2003 V70 2.4T

    This car was bought new from Volvo Feb 2003 and was maintained at or better than Volvo recommendations .

    4 year 50,000 mile warranty - goes to Feb 2007 2003 V70 2.4 T

    Date Mileage Cost Notes

    27-Mar-03 1164 59.53 Mobil 1 synthetic $5.95 a qt for 6 qts ($4.99 at Checker)


    11-Jun-03 2312 0.00 Rear hatch seal loose - misaligned - Done under warranty ..

    18-Nov-03 4366 19.35 Oil change with my own Mobil 1 Oil .. also fixed power steering leak from bottom of reservoir NC. Note: A few weeks later , fluid was so low it would not touch dipstick, took it in and they said it was full. That was patent BS ... I checked it before I left for dealer. Anyhow they filled it and it has been OK since ... probably an air bubble from when they did the original repair but don't lie to me!.

    12-May-04 7271 136.38 They did not check spare tire , it was at 48 lbs instead of 60 lbs.Left one of the battery cover bolts loose.
    Bill was with using my own Mobil 1 oil for oil change
    9-Dec-04 10569 21.89 Oil change with my own Mobile 1

    4-May-05 12923 973.34 4 Michelin 235/45-17 Pilot XGT H4 at Discount

    5-Oct-05 15089 340.52 15000 mile service using oil and filter with ( my Mobil 1 ??? )they did not check battery - had to take it back - also they tried to charge me for oil. Big discussion of what oil they really used !!!! Service adviser brought out empty Mobil 1 containers ???? 4 wheel alignment


    3-Oct-06 20515 59.69 Oil change with my own Mobile 1- Replaced front wiper blades Also tweaked front end for pull - 22500 mile service

    26-Sep-07 25000 324.00 new set of Yokohama 235/45-R17 - Michelins shot - Discount credited $89 a tire for poor mileage against the 40K warranty

    26-Sep-07 25026 49.99 Front end aligned - rear wheel alignment was "perfect". Network Alignment

    2-Oct-07 25129 16.24 Oil and Filter - my own Mobil 1 - Swedish Auto Works -

    27-Jun-08 28974 540.33 OIl and Filter - my Mobile One - Front brake Pucks , engine torque mount bushing , diagnose gas leak from fuel pump.

    30-Jun-08 29046 715.83 Replace fuel pump assembly- two new o ring seals also

    19-Mar-09 32692 39.90 Oil and Filter - my own Mobil 1 - Swedish Auto Works -front brake squeal - deglaze and graphite

    20-Mar-09 32721 276.57 Changed coolant , cabin air filter, engine air filter , all rest 30K Re-did front brakes for squeal

    12-Jun-09 33874 1232.04 Replaced right front power door lock , replaced radiator leaking at right lower seam put in all new coolant
    say need upper strut mounts $473 say need all lower control arm bushings $650

    10-Aug-09 34717 225.68 Check Engine light - ECM upgraded - ECM0431D fault code - say if comes back will need to do leak pump. say now Transmission pan re-seal - beginning to leak - $900
    if do transmission flush at same time about another $300. also highlight CV boots ,half shafts,control arms as "may require atten" ????? and highlighted Shocks/Rear Struts as "may require atten" ?????

    total of $2323 repairs "need" to be done as of 10 August 09
    have done $2489 since 27 June 08

    Like I say , maybe I got a lemon --- maybe lousy dealer service - (I went through three different organizations , each dealer went out of business and became something else . I even looked at a new 2009 V70 at the last dealer , Sanderson Volvo - but it got sold while we were thinking - that was the end of V70 at Sanderson - and the Ford/Volvo change was scary .

    And one crowning thing was how I was treated by local Volvo Factory rep and my letter to Volvo Customer service was replied to with a basic tough . (But as I said they did refund about $1000 a year or so later through a recall letter they sent saying that if you had already had the work done send in receipts) .
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    edited February 2011
    That's really useful (and enlightening) information, thanks for posting it k7.

    Not to play devil's advocate, but...

    I don't think you got a lemon. It looks like many of your problems are plastic and rubber failure (bushings, hoses, seals, CV boots, etc.). I suspect that a lot of this is caused by your cars duty cycle exacerbated by the desert climate.

    5000 miles/year means that your car either sits unused for long periods and/or makes many short trips. Both cycles wreak havok on your car. It could certainly explain your fluid leaks, brake squeal, and check engine light (intake/ignition/exhaust/emissions?).

    Today, your car is 8 years old and it appears you have never changed the transmission or brake fluid. You kept the original coolant for 6 years. If your CV boots are shot (which after 8 years they may very well be), then you will most likely need new driveshafts too. Other things that could be at the end of their useful life (in my humble opinion) are the catalytic converter, O2 sensors and muffler.

    My opinion: You may have had some questionable dealer service too, I don't know. But if you did, who knows what they did or didn't do to your car? Finally, I used to use Mobil 1 in my cars too, but I recently switched back to high quality dino oil because I've been told (by very knowledgeable sources) that real oil is thicker (I'm paraphrasing) and lubricates seals better than synthetic oil, thus it is less likely to leak/seep.

    Finally, I'll just add that I don't claim to be an expert. I'm not a mechanic. I'm just a car enthusiast and shade-tree wrench turner who works on my own cars. I wish you the best of luck with your car!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    edited September 2011
    We just had our first unscheduled maintenance with our V70 so I thought I would post an update. My wife got a CEL illumination a few weeks ago and also had the car stall. It started right up again and ran fine, but I brought it to my usual independent shop to have it looked at.

    OBC reader said fault code ECM-261A Fuel pressure system, which indicated either the fuel pump or fuel pressure sensor was faulty. Since our problem was intermittent and the car ran fine, we replaced the sensor. It was also only $200 and an easy fix so worth trying first.

    Well I'm happy to report that all seems fine again. No CEL illuminations and no stalls.

    I also replaced all 4 tires as the old Goodyears were getting low on tread and winter is approaching (here in Seattle, that means more rain than snow). I chose Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds to replace the ComfortTreds we had because I liked the ride but wanted to improve wet traction. We haven't had any rain yet, but so far the TripleTreds have a very nice smooth and quiet ride - easily a match for the ComfortTreds that I really liked.

    With the new tires and struts, our 123,000 V70 rides as good as the day we bought it. I have test driven a few cars lately (Land Rover LR4, Mercedes E350 wagon, Jeep Grand Cherokee) thinking about getting a new car and giving the V70 to our daughter when she starts driving next year. None of these cars offer a significant improvement over the comfort, ride, or safety of our V70. I do like the more modern telematics they offer (Bluetooth, iPod connectivity, nav, etc.) so we'll see...
  • rmo3rmo3 Member Posts: 2
    Isn't it a shame they didn't bring the v60 to the states. I really like that car. I have 2005 V70, you probably went on line and saw those green diesels getting over 50 mpg. I think there is some gentleman's agreement to give Europe all the diesels. Maybe to keep price of diesel low but who knows? but seems odd that technology continues to be kept from the US. Not helpful as information just my 2 cents, does 2 make it a petition drive? For a v60 diesel!
  • jared3227jared3227 Member Posts: 1
    hi wanted to see if you ever figured out how to put the upholder back in and attach the spring thing.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Since I last posted here.

    Car's running strong with 135,000 on the odometer. No issues - it's still a pleasure to own and drive.

    We did get another car to join the V70 in the stable. A lovely old BMW 3 series convertible. Yes, my daughter will be driving the Volvo... :)
  • anlyrosanlyros Member Posts: 1

    2002 V70 T5 advice needed on purchase
    Not having such good luck with my 98 T5, I would like an opinion on the 2002 model. The car I am looking at is priced at top retail with a dealer and the carfax report shows regular maintenance has been performed. I love the turbo engine and have been looking for a replacement for awhile now. It is a 2 owner Florida car that looks (from the photos) great inside and out. Opinions...please. I had hoped to find a later model car but the market is slim and all I am finding on the T5 is older cars.
    What might be some of the repairs I might expect on a 12 year old car with 100K?
    Thanks!

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