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Anyway, very nice ride, we did have some stop and go traffic and a backup at one point, but all said and done, 5 hours of driving mostly interstate, and the info message claimed we were at 32 mpg. I'll take that.
It's about a 90 min drive. Can anyone out there help w/a VIN check?
yv1sw59v642349171
Any help would be much appreciated.
Some folks have said the Carfax reports are not always completely up to date. While not perfect, it's probably the best source a consumer can use to check out used cars.
Thank you to biancar for replying to my 7-10 post. As it turns out the seller of this car had carfax access and we looked up the history together. Original owner had all dealer service into the high 60k range.
The car is for my college-age daughter, and she'll take delivery in a week or so...
Here are a couple of rookie questions:
1. It comes with only one key (switchblade style remote.) I'd like to get an additional one just in case off loss. Is the dealer my only option? I posted a similar question in the maintenance forum and someone was nice enough to say a locksmith MIGHT be able to help me.
2. The front tires are much more worn that the rear and I'll need to replace them soon. Anyone have history in this area? successes/failures?
I've read nearly every post in this forum from message 1000 to last and am very appreciative of all I've seen so far.
Curious if fedlawman still has his '04 V70
(oddly enuf lawman, the seller of my V70 also has a Lotus in his stable.)
Thanks to all for your posts thus far.
1. I don't know of any good way to avoid the dealer when you're talking about the switchblade keys, because I'm pretty sure they're chipped.
2. Front tires being more worn than the rear on a car that age can be a sign that the previous owner stopped rotating them and replaced in pairs. But if the wear is uneven from side to side or across a single tire, definitely make sure you get the alignment checked.
Were you thinking about replacing all four or two at a time? And were you looking for advice on brands/types of replacement tires? Not entirely sure what your question is here.
Volvo Smart Key Technology Update for Volvo Model Year Vehicles 2002-2010
You can also obtain additional or duplicate remote control keys from certain independent repair facilities and locksmiths that are qualified to make remote control keys. Each key must be programmed to work with your vehicle. A list of independent repair facilities and/or locksmiths known to Volvo that can cut and code replacement keys can be found on the Volvo website at www.volvocars.com/us/keys or can be obtained by calling the Volvo Customer Care at 1-800-458-1552.
Yes, we are still enjoying our V70.Getting my list together for the 120,000 mile service.
EDIT: I found a diode bridge for the S80 (which is the same "platform" as the V70. It is part #30655381 and costs $67 from swedishautoparts.com.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/shop/search.php?MaxCount=10&gogo=2&extra=diode+b- ridge&myCat1=V70&a1=Start+Search
I would call them and ask them to do a parts search for you. Maybe you'll get lucky. 800-774-4496.
I'll probably go to dealer for a spare key and or remote unless I find a reasonable and reliable alternative. (right now, it looks like the dealer, but one never knows.)
On the tires: the fronts are worn pirelli tires, the rear are michelin and in pretty good shape.
My thought was to run the fronts as is until autumn (front end does no pull either left or right and the ride is smooth) and replace them with m+s or snow tires for the winter. (after winter I'd replace all 4 tires and have a viable set of winter tires for the front end next year.)
That's the plan in my head. Question is this: can anyone out there who has driven a V70 fwd on snow/ice tell me if they think I'll NEED snow tires? It's a very heavy car compared to what I'm used to driving and I worry about the wintertime handling.
or--is a set of new tires (which I'll do one way or the other) sufficient? (we're talking Indpls winter here, which isn't severe by any means...but we do get some tricky winter driving nonetheless.)
Thanks again
Steve
I'm grateful that this forum exists as a resource.
Needs: I bop around town, carry a bike, a country stretch or mountain ski a couple of times in winter...around 10K a year. Enjoy good handling and uumph, but not a speedo.
With 213,000 miles (2 local owners) am I crazy or what? $2500 asking price. Needs tires. Waiting for the mehcanic's verdict. Any pointers welcome!
If you are handy and willing/able to shop online for parts and do your own routine maintenance (fluids, filters, brakes, plugs, bulbs, etc.), then it sounds like a great car.
Their mechanic verififed regular oil changes every 3K and a few repairs we questioned --so this looks promising. I've made an offer which will be presented to the boss (the wife) and hope this is the car for me.
My priority is tires. in the Pacific NW where we have all seasons (wet winters and skiing occassionally) I'd go for Pirelli, but I hear other V70 XC's prefer Micheliens for their slightly longer mileage. Thoughts? The Continental Federals on it are toast.
I'm in Seattle and chose touring tires on our V70 because they ride smooth and quiet. They are fine in the rain, but not so good on ice/snow.
I think the XC leans more towards SUV (crossover) tires, so I'm not sure I'm the one to recommend tires to you. However, 2 great all-season "sport sedan" tires I can recommend are the Pirelli PZero Nero and the Michelin Pilot A/S.
What do you consider a 'touring tire'. I know locals go for Continentals. A specialist told me he liked Pirellis for 'all weather grip' but many choose Michelins for their longevity (brand). Wondering how the AWD turbo eats tires with that beefy steering. The car I offered to buy (still hanging out for an response) had really worn fronts (contientals). I had a more sedate wagon that did OK with Toyos' but it was not a performance vehicle.
Thank you again for the exchange...I am learning a lot here!
You should decide what characteristics are important to you.
For example, rank from top to bottom the importance or dry grip, wet grip, responsiveness (sharp reflexes), quiet ride, smooth ride, snow/ice traction. Let me know and I'll help you decide.
BTW, my Volvo has Goodyear Assurance ComforTred passenger tires. My BMW has Pirelli PZero Nero ultra-high performance all-season tires.
I knew it needed a Heater Blower Resistor per owner and one tire.
My test drive I knew the right front tire had a bad belt/buldge. I ignored the tire sound when the car steered straight or right. Turning just a bit left the silence was nice.
I paid $2100.00 for the car.Asking price was $2800.00.
Went right to the tire store - Insisted I buy four tires due to AWD. $420.00.
Up on the lift they said it needed one tie rod end and one ball joint.
I left there with my new mounted tires and went to Auto Parts Store.
$300.00 worth of parts ( control arms w/ball joints and tie rod ends) I did that myself in my driveway in 1.5 hours with hand tools and pry bar.
I made an appt for a wheel alignment next week.
The car steers straight as an arrow but I still have the horrible sound. I assume it might be the left front wheel bearing ?
Regardless the body is like new - leather interior is like new- it was a Florida car all its life until now ( in NJ) - I think I did alright - see what the shop says during the alignment appointment.
19.7 mpg I think the only option I dont have is multi disc player.
My V70 is getting on a bit, although I will probably keep it until something major happens to it, and I like the look of new V60 wagon. However I really want to move over to a diesel for the mileage and unfortunately/fortunately the only thing really on the market in a wagon is a VW Jetta TDI (or something much more expensive).
Why doesn't Volvo bring the diesels they already use elsewhere in the world? The D5 is popular in Europe so it must be a good engine......
Since then, I found another V70 AWD that LOOKS by the pictures to be in pristine shape. It's a 2001 with 133K on it for $5500. It's about 50 miles from me but just because it LOOKS nice, and it does, I would have no way to know how the car was taken care of. I would ask this dealer if there was a Carfax, or if there was any paperwork detailing just how the car was maintained. According to my local Volvo dealer who I called for some advice, he claims Volvo recommends the timing belt be changed at 105K, and this car has 133K on it. Was the belt changed? And if the guy says yes but has no documentation for it, how could I really be sure. The Volvo dealer says that if I couldn't be 100% sure about it, he'd want to replace the belt because if I didn't and it broke, I'd be looking at a major expense since the motor is an interference fit.
And to fuel more interest in these cars, there is a shop right here in my home town called Integrated Auto Service that has specialized in these cars for over 30 years. I completely forgot about this business that always has this and other model Volvos for sale. They COMPLETELY recondition them and when they leave this lot, they are absolutely great and he backs everything he sells with a warranty. He has a 2002 V70 AWD in stock now but he wants top dollar for it, like 8 grand! But he took the time to go over a lot of issues with these cars and says that while it's nothing for them to reach 200Kand more, you must maintain them properly and that can cost a nice dollar if you don't work on cars yourself. I do consider myself fairly handy at auto repair, but never worked on a Volvo. Are they that much more complicated than other vehicles? This guy's response to me when I told him I had an OBD2 code scanner was that Volvo has proprietary codes and that is what is more likely to be set than a generic code that my scannerr would be capable of reading. He also said that he charges $800 bucks for a timing belt replacement because he not only changes the belt, but the gears, tensioner, and water pump as well, because should I have an issue with the water pump, he has to tear everything apart to get to it.
I agree proper maintenance is key to any car's longevity. The problem is that I don't have a lot of money to make everything right like this man says is imperative. He charges $400 bucks per axle for brakes! I think that's insanity, I mean, are these parts really expensive, or what? I could see it if you had to replace the rotors and you wanted good ones, but you should NOT have to replace rotors everytime you need pads, do you agree with that? Certainly they could be machined at LEAST once unless you're really hard on brakes. And to boot, he says this model need a steady diet of at least 89 or preferably 93 octane fuel, and needless to say, you know that can be expensive. He says you CAN use 87, but you will not get the performance or mileage out of the car if you do.
I know this is long winded, folks, and I do apologize. But I just needed to make an informed decision on this model and to those of you who have them and love them, I wish you a good day.
Half of me wants either the 2001 50 miles away or this 2002, and the other half is wondering if I can(or should) take on the expense of owning a Volvo. I asked him if I buy this 2001, can I bring it to you for a complete, unbiased and honest evaluation? He said of course. He said that if I bought his 2002, he would only be seeing me for oil changes(if I took it back to him), because ALL the other work is done: New brakes all around, anything found wrong was fixed, etc. He'd probably make more money off me if I bought something elsewhere and if it wasn't right, well, I guess I'd better have a big wallet. And his '02 has 40K LESS miles than the 2001, but the 2001 is 4000 bucks less. I'll tell ya, folks, decisions, DECISIONS!!!!! Thanks for putting up with my whining!!!!
Some reasons why I'm keeping my 2004 V70 is because it's such a nice car, I've maintained it religiously and never had a problem, and it has depreciated so much that it's all but worthless!
Yes $9000 is a lot for a 2002 V70, but based on your comments, your not going to find a nicer one with so much assurance of it's maintenance condition/history and a warranty. I would pass if you're not looking to keep it for a while, but if you want it for the long haul, then it might be worth it.
By the way, when you do test drive, check the rebound dampening. My original shocks were all but dead at around 70,000 miles (and we milked them over 90,000). You're probably going to need new ones (and tower mounts too) with either of these cars so factor in another $500 - $1000.
I can't think of anything else. These cars are basically German under the skin, so if you're used to working on BMW's (Ate, Mahle, Bosch parts), you'll be right at home.
Happy hunting!
But I'm not sure I can convince her that the Volvo is the way to go, so I may have to change plans. But I do believe that they are really good, reliable vehicles, and I thank those of you who have responded to me. Take care and God Bless!
There's plenty of info on the web about it.
As for the air problem, I don't think Volvo's are any different than any other car. Change the cabin filter and use "recirculate" when you're in traffic.
June 08 - $716 - replaced fuel pump assy and o rings - gas odor so bad afraid to park it in garage . Volvo Factory man said Tough - but about two years later there was a recall and I got most of that back. Then June 09 $1232 right front power door lock , radiator replaced -leaking at plastic seam , at that point they also said I needed upper strut mounts $473 and all lower control arm bushings $650. Aug 09 34717 miles Check engine light came on - ECM upgraded - said need transmission pan reseal $900 and if did transmission flush at same time another $300 - also said CV boots , half shafts , control arms , shocks/rear struts "may require attention".
Had independent Volvo/Saab garage look at it and got almost same responses . His comment was I should have kept the 960 but even then should figure on $1500 a year repairs/maintenance. Both 960's did have steering rack failures and both had vacuum A/C controls fail and replaced - The wagon also had a radiator and power seat control go bad . So his $1500 a year not too far off.
This V70 car was never off city streets - never hot rodded - so faced with $2323 repairs "needed" and already $2489 since June of 08 - I started looking .
When I traded it at end of 09 - the struts were absolutely shot and almost scary to drive - especially bad when cold - not as noisy when hot !
I could go on about the stumbling on right turns ,hesitation , and drive line "clunk" -(which dealer said was normal ) torque steer etc etc - My wife is/was a Volvo lover for the safety and even she at about 3500 miles said she wished we had just kept one of the 960's.
Thats my experience with a 2003 V70 2.4T
Maybe I just got a lemon , maybe its because I live in the hell heat of Phoenix -- but we are retired and the car is always garaged and not sitting in sun all day everyday.
Yep I have a friend with a 240 sedan and it runs forever !!!!
I bought my 2004 V70 new in July 2004. I have changed the engine oil every 5000 - 7500 miles, flushed the transmission fluid, brake fluid, and coolant every 50,000 miles, changed the spark plugs at 60,000, replaced the timing belt (and tensioner, idler pulley, etc.) at 100,000 and installed new shocks at 110,000 (way overdue).
Except for some small nits early on (a rattle in the cargo area, trip odometer resetting at random, broken rear seat cupholder (kids), and a separated fuel filler neck) that were fixed under warranty, we have enjoyed 120,000 trouble free miles.
My V70 has proven to be more comfortable and reliable than any of the 4 Honda's I've owned over the years. I plan on keeping it for many years to come.
My husband and I separated and since both cars were in his name, until we settle, I need a car immediately. I have always driven either a Honda or Toyota, but I wanted something different.
Now, I'm a little (OK, maybe REALLY) scared. I'm on a very limited income and have 4 children that I'm sharing custody with. I cannot afford to buy a car that will have constant repair issues. Should I walk away and just eat the $500 deposit. PLEASE HELP! ????
This car was bought new from Volvo Feb 2003 and was maintained at or better than Volvo recommendations .
4 year 50,000 mile warranty - goes to Feb 2007 2003 V70 2.4 T
Date Mileage Cost Notes
27-Mar-03 1164 59.53 Mobil 1 synthetic $5.95 a qt for 6 qts ($4.99 at Checker)
11-Jun-03 2312 0.00 Rear hatch seal loose - misaligned - Done under warranty ..
18-Nov-03 4366 19.35 Oil change with my own Mobil 1 Oil .. also fixed power steering leak from bottom of reservoir NC. Note: A few weeks later , fluid was so low it would not touch dipstick, took it in and they said it was full. That was patent BS ... I checked it before I left for dealer. Anyhow they filled it and it has been OK since ... probably an air bubble from when they did the original repair but don't lie to me!.
12-May-04 7271 136.38 They did not check spare tire , it was at 48 lbs instead of 60 lbs.Left one of the battery cover bolts loose.
Bill was with using my own Mobil 1 oil for oil change
9-Dec-04 10569 21.89 Oil change with my own Mobile 1
4-May-05 12923 973.34 4 Michelin 235/45-17 Pilot XGT H4 at Discount
5-Oct-05 15089 340.52 15000 mile service using oil and filter with ( my Mobil 1 ??? )they did not check battery - had to take it back - also they tried to charge me for oil. Big discussion of what oil they really used !!!! Service adviser brought out empty Mobil 1 containers ???? 4 wheel alignment
3-Oct-06 20515 59.69 Oil change with my own Mobile 1- Replaced front wiper blades Also tweaked front end for pull - 22500 mile service
26-Sep-07 25000 324.00 new set of Yokohama 235/45-R17 - Michelins shot - Discount credited $89 a tire for poor mileage against the 40K warranty
26-Sep-07 25026 49.99 Front end aligned - rear wheel alignment was "perfect". Network Alignment
2-Oct-07 25129 16.24 Oil and Filter - my own Mobil 1 - Swedish Auto Works -
27-Jun-08 28974 540.33 OIl and Filter - my Mobile One - Front brake Pucks , engine torque mount bushing , diagnose gas leak from fuel pump.
30-Jun-08 29046 715.83 Replace fuel pump assembly- two new o ring seals also
19-Mar-09 32692 39.90 Oil and Filter - my own Mobil 1 - Swedish Auto Works -front brake squeal - deglaze and graphite
20-Mar-09 32721 276.57 Changed coolant , cabin air filter, engine air filter , all rest 30K Re-did front brakes for squeal
12-Jun-09 33874 1232.04 Replaced right front power door lock , replaced radiator leaking at right lower seam put in all new coolant
say need upper strut mounts $473 say need all lower control arm bushings $650
10-Aug-09 34717 225.68 Check Engine light - ECM upgraded - ECM0431D fault code - say if comes back will need to do leak pump. say now Transmission pan re-seal - beginning to leak - $900
if do transmission flush at same time about another $300. also highlight CV boots ,half shafts,control arms as "may require atten" ????? and highlighted Shocks/Rear Struts as "may require atten" ?????
total of $2323 repairs "need" to be done as of 10 August 09
have done $2489 since 27 June 08
Like I say , maybe I got a lemon --- maybe lousy dealer service - (I went through three different organizations , each dealer went out of business and became something else . I even looked at a new 2009 V70 at the last dealer , Sanderson Volvo - but it got sold while we were thinking - that was the end of V70 at Sanderson - and the Ford/Volvo change was scary .
And one crowning thing was how I was treated by local Volvo Factory rep and my letter to Volvo Customer service was replied to with a basic tough . (But as I said they did refund about $1000 a year or so later through a recall letter they sent saying that if you had already had the work done send in receipts) .
Not to play devil's advocate, but...
I don't think you got a lemon. It looks like many of your problems are plastic and rubber failure (bushings, hoses, seals, CV boots, etc.). I suspect that a lot of this is caused by your cars duty cycle exacerbated by the desert climate.
5000 miles/year means that your car either sits unused for long periods and/or makes many short trips. Both cycles wreak havok on your car. It could certainly explain your fluid leaks, brake squeal, and check engine light (intake/ignition/exhaust/emissions?).
Today, your car is 8 years old and it appears you have never changed the transmission or brake fluid. You kept the original coolant for 6 years. If your CV boots are shot (which after 8 years they may very well be), then you will most likely need new driveshafts too. Other things that could be at the end of their useful life (in my humble opinion) are the catalytic converter, O2 sensors and muffler.
My opinion: You may have had some questionable dealer service too, I don't know. But if you did, who knows what they did or didn't do to your car? Finally, I used to use Mobil 1 in my cars too, but I recently switched back to high quality dino oil because I've been told (by very knowledgeable sources) that real oil is thicker (I'm paraphrasing) and lubricates seals better than synthetic oil, thus it is less likely to leak/seep.
Finally, I'll just add that I don't claim to be an expert. I'm not a mechanic. I'm just a car enthusiast and shade-tree wrench turner who works on my own cars. I wish you the best of luck with your car!
OBC reader said fault code ECM-261A Fuel pressure system, which indicated either the fuel pump or fuel pressure sensor was faulty. Since our problem was intermittent and the car ran fine, we replaced the sensor. It was also only $200 and an easy fix so worth trying first.
Well I'm happy to report that all seems fine again. No CEL illuminations and no stalls.
I also replaced all 4 tires as the old Goodyears were getting low on tread and winter is approaching (here in Seattle, that means more rain than snow). I chose Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds to replace the ComfortTreds we had because I liked the ride but wanted to improve wet traction. We haven't had any rain yet, but so far the TripleTreds have a very nice smooth and quiet ride - easily a match for the ComfortTreds that I really liked.
With the new tires and struts, our 123,000 V70 rides as good as the day we bought it. I have test driven a few cars lately (Land Rover LR4, Mercedes E350 wagon, Jeep Grand Cherokee) thinking about getting a new car and giving the V70 to our daughter when she starts driving next year. None of these cars offer a significant improvement over the comfort, ride, or safety of our V70. I do like the more modern telematics they offer (Bluetooth, iPod connectivity, nav, etc.) so we'll see...
Car's running strong with 135,000 on the odometer. No issues - it's still a pleasure to own and drive.
We did get another car to join the V70 in the stable. A lovely old BMW 3 series convertible. Yes, my daughter will be driving the Volvo...
2002 V70 T5 advice needed on purchase
Not having such good luck with my 98 T5, I would like an opinion on the 2002 model. The car I am looking at is priced at top retail with a dealer and the carfax report shows regular maintenance has been performed. I love the turbo engine and have been looking for a replacement for awhile now. It is a 2 owner Florida car that looks (from the photos) great inside and out. Opinions...please. I had hoped to find a later model car but the market is slim and all I am finding on the T5 is older cars.
What might be some of the repairs I might expect on a 12 year old car with 100K?
Thanks!