Volvo V70 Wagon Experience

kprasad20 · March 2001

Hi,
I posted this on Edmunds a week ago and got no responses. I know the discussion here is about new (2001) Volvos, but I've browsed this site a lot, and hope that you can give me the benefit of your experiences with both cars...

We own a 1988 740 GLE wagon that has close to 175000 miles on it. It's running fine, but we're looking to get a used (probably off-lease) wagon with more power (and an automatic transmission, as it's for my wife and she has an hour-long commute in traffic). I've test-driven the 1996-98 960/V90, the 1994-1998 850/V70 (light and heavy pressure turbos), the V70 AWD, the XC, the '97 Audi A6 Quattro and the '98 Subaru Outback Wagon.
The Subaru's noisy, doesn't seem to have many amenities, and the steering wheel's difficult to turn.
The 850/v70 non-turbos are nice cars, but difficult to get going. I've driven both the stick and auto versions, and while the stick is okay -though still slow -the automatic is a snail. My worry with the turbocharged 850/V70s is... the turbo. These cost a lot of $$ to repair, and I've heard scattered reports of turbo casing leaks and suchlike on these high-pressure turbos, so that purchase might lead to a slightly scary situation.
The Audi's way too much money for the engine and size (it actually looks like it has less room in the back than the Subie). Plus, for less dough, the Volvo has the same front-to-back and side-to-side AWD system.

This brings me to the V90 vs the XC/V70 AWD.
The light-pressure turbo in the XC/V70 AWD seems to carry less of a load (boosts the hp by 22 from 168 to 190), and the added security of Traction Control and AWD seems great, but the horror stories on various websites about the problems with these cars have intensified - if anything - for the 1998 and newer models.
The post 1996 960/V90 (which carries side airbags, like the 850/V70s, from that model year on) looks like a hassle-free car so far - dated looks, true, but not too many recorded problems - and has a lot of standard goodies, like the XC. The handling is great, turning radius is awesome, and the engine's smooth as silk - one can hardly hear it.
The problem here is RWD. We've managed so far for 3 years (stuck in snowbanks twice, always carry a shovel, used to the smell of burning rubber, very frustrating but no calls to triple-A for a snow-tow yet), and I don't know how useful the V90's rear limited-slip differential is going to be in slippery weather (we live in CT).

I've heard conflicting reports so far - one side is of the opinion that 4 snow tires and 200 pounds of kitty litter and salt in the back should help you go anywhere, and the other scoffs at RWD and propounds AWD as the only way to get anywhere safely in winter.
The weight and power of both wagons are very close. Power-to-weight and torque-to-weight ratios are almost identical. The V90 gets the edge in ride quality, the XC in highway merges.
So now it's down to (a) higher repair costs and more problems, but newer technology with the safety of AWD or (b) smoother, more comfy ride, older but tried-and-true innards, and debatable safety in bad weather. Kids in the (not very) near future also in the equation.
It'd be lovely to get both

, they're great cars, but reality intrudes.
I'd welcome your suggestions on some of the issues I've raised.

bulkleycorp · March 2001

Hi,

Live in CT too. Have a 1991 740 w/125K - a solid car that I pan to keep for a few more years.

I too was looking at a car for my wife, looked at the new V70's - (older ones seem to have problems and they seemed smaller than my 740.) I ended up buying a Saab 9-5 wagon - slightly bigger, faster, better driver ergonomics, and more fun to drive.

Re RWD v. FWD v. AWD. I was born/raised in Buffalo, NY - snow around here is nothing compared to Buffalo. However, 4 snows with sand in back doesn't buy much - I had 300 pounds of sand in back this winter w/ 4 snows and driving it was a joke. Fortunately I can work from home so it wasn't an issue.

Your issue comes down to how often car is going to be used and when. My other car is a 4WD Ford Expedition so when weather was bad, I just drove the SUV. If your other car is FWD than I would get the RWD Volvo. You may also want to look at the Saab - price was very competitive at Saab of Westport.

Good luck.

alwaysed · March 2001

I recently turned in a '98 V70 AWD R (at 43000 miles) for a 2001 V70 T5. The car performed very well and there were certain attributes that were superior to the 2001. Also, I had a '96 850 with the big turbo--also very reliable.

I used snow tires (Blizzaks)on the '98 in the Chicago area and they worked quite well.

Several of my friends have had '96-'01 Volvos and have not mentioned any problems mentioned in your post.

kprasad20 · March 2001

Thanks - our other car is a '97 Passat GLX with FWD, doesn't handle great in the snow, but it's much better than the 740. Does your '91 740 have the rear limited-slip differential? If so, does that help at all?
I might just buy the V90 (go with tried-and-true) and use the Passat in bad weather - of which we got a lot more this winter than I expected! For now, it's wait-and-see.

bulkleycorp · March 2001

My 740 doesn't have the limited slip - in my opinion RWD is RWD - FWD is better in snow.. Does your passat have 4 snows? If not, it may handle better as someone else mentioned in the thread.

Good luck.

dmyk1 · March 2001

Just curious to know what kind of deal Red Bank Volvo offered you and who the salesperson was that you dealt with? I'm interested in the XC model -- is this what you dealt on? Also, if you already made the trip there, did you find what they told you over the phone to be different once you got there (how much hassle)? Thanks for your help.

garyct · April 2001

I just orderd a 01 V70T5 (manual,nautic blue/sand due in June) without roof rails and would like to able to put up to three bikes on the back of the car somehow. I would prefer to not put our bikes on top of the car if possible (via roof rack).

I'm not to sure about a hitch-type option and not sure if this would take away from the look of the car (not to mention the potential clearence issues with an already lower riding 17" wheel).

Has anybody ordered one of the strap on types bike racks that keeps the bikes far enough way from the back hatch that it will not bang into it? I would most likely put a heavy blanket to over the back hatch area regardless, just to protect my baby.

Any recommendations out there?

all the best,

Gary

dunka · April 2001

After 7 months and 8,000 miles we can say we would by this car all over again. It has not been perfect but nothing is. Observations to date after mixed driving in mixed conditions.

The Good Side - Car is a rocket, either I have gotten use to the turbot lag or it has lessened. The dangerous thing about merging onto a crowded highway is running up on the car that just flew by you afew seconds earlier when you were at crawl. Brakes take getting use to but they bring the vehicle to smooth and quick stops. Vehicle is still one of the best looking on the road. Extremely comfortable, just came in off 4+ hours on the road and still have the energy to post this message, at 6' 7" being comfortable in anything but an SUV is amazing. Car handles well enough - remember its a wagon. Handles the winter slop we have had in Boston over the past 5 weeks wonderfully, note that I took the 17" Pirelli's off for the winter and put on 16" Michelin Pilot Alpin, those combined with the traction control and we had no problems in all types of conditions. Cargo space is good with the rear seats up, put the seats down and all I can think of is my college buddy's El Camino (that's a compliment). Very functional interior, except the radio controls, they finally figured out cup holders! 22 miles per gallon and it looks like the prices will be rising for the summer driving season - glad I did not go the big SUV route.

The Not so Good Side (have a tough time calling these issues bad...yet) - See the above comment on radio controls, not sure what they were thinking but I don't think I've turned a radio dial since 1975 - also am getting questionable radio reception but that could be the area I travel. The simulated wood door inserts on both front doors has chipped where the handle hits, annoying, but is being taken care of, Volvo has redesigned door inserts. When vehilce is at dealer for door insert work I am going to have them check the steering column, I get a feel of a thump when turning from a stop - sorry for the vague description but it is something you feel rather than hear. Believe it has been mentioned on these boards before, I am confident my dealer will take care of it - Stutz in Salem is great. Watch out for the blind spots, A pilars are too thick and B pilars make some merging situations an adventure.

Bottomline I would buy this vehicle again and am recommending it to friends. I'll let you know what the verdict is on the steering column. And will post an occasional update.

acasu · April 2001

I dealt with Jane Malone. She was great. We arrived at the dealership at 4:30 pm (it closed at 5:00 pm). She had all of the paper work ready, all of the numbers were the same and the car had everything we wanted (we half expected to get there and have different numbers, etc.). We signed the necessary papers and she delivered the car and we were on our way. It was the easiest car buying experience I've had EVER and I was very happy with the price. Again, she reinforced the fact that we got such a good deal because they are a high volume dealer. Sticker price on the car was 37,025 and we paid 33,352. We bought the V70 with VP w/3rd seat pkg, CWP w/STC, Sunroof, Auto trans, touring package and metallic paint. I don't know what her price on the XC would be, but the lease prices were significantly less that I saw in CT. I would call her. My husband wants to get a Volvo S80 now. Good luck.

alwaysed · April 2001

I have had my T5 for 3 months and 4m miles, and agree with everything Dunka mentioned in his post-especially the radio controls and the rear visability. But, I would add one additional negative, that of how the rear hatch and window collect the road grime in the wet weather. However, that is the result of airflow over a very appealing design-a design that could be compromised with a spoiler.

I should mention that I haven't felt any bump problem in the steering (yet).

paddingtonbear · April 2001

Well, I posted (on another thread) this question and got almost no response from the heavy XC-lover ladden board. What I'm wondering is: Is the engine really sufficient enough to get the XC moving? 197hp is not much, and on my test drive I felt that I had to apply too much pressure to the gas pedal to get up to speed. Anyone else feel this way? I'm not a speed demon (too much), but I don't want to regret my purchase if I end up feeling like I'm forcing a heavy truck to get going.

In spite of the above concern over the hp and the dissappointingly useless third row, I'm actually still contemplating buying this car (like the looks, safety, comfort). Then I get the April 9 issue of AutoWeek. It slams the XC. Identified my issue with power ("you have to keep your foot down"), says it's noisy, has tipsy handling, vague steering and modest brakes, and calls it SUV-ish. I actually thought the breaks on the XC were sweet. Now I'm confused and concerned. What's your opinion out there?

paddingtonbear · April 2001

Is there some way to have the (of some) subwoofer and the third row seat (though almost useless)? Any third-party installations of a subwoofer with an XC w/third row?

alwaysed · April 2001

I, also, read that brief update review in Autoweek. I would disregard it completely. Although I have a 2001 V70 T5, I did drive an XC for several days while my car was being prepped; I experienced none of the conditions mentioned. In fact, the brakes were almost too good. I was concerned that following cars could not stop near as fast as I could. Their review was, by far, the exception, not the rule, for the car mag reviews

paddingtonbear · April 2001

Thanks so much for your response. It's comforting. Most people do seem quite happy with the 2001 year AC, and I haven't read another really awful review like that one. I do feel it's slightly under powered at lower speeds, but it's an OK trade-off to me. Not being able to get the sub-woofer with the third-row is really annoying, though. Maybe some out here has a work-around.

Thanks, again.

sbussell · April 2001

Hi, My wife and I are starting to shop for a V70 2.4T. We are in So. NH. Any dealers we should stay away from? Thanks.

ryskit · April 2001

My wife and I purchased a Volvo S70 last year. Although we like the car, it has a funny exhaust type smell in the interior, which ends up seeping into our clothes. We have taken it to the Volvo dealership more than once and they have run in-depth diagnostics to verify that exhaust fumes are NOT leaking into the cabin. Could it be the leather or the plastic materials used ? Any of you out there experienced the same problem ? Is there another site that you can direct me to for
more detailed answers ? Thanks for your help

pocahontas · April 2001

You may want to check with the nhtsa or alldata websites to see if there are any similar (fuel emissions/exhaust) technical service bulletins or complaints listed on your Volvo S70. For future reference, you'll find links to the nhtsa via Edmunds.com's safety information in their Ownership area.

Also, more information about technical service bulletins, here's an interesting article from Edmunds.com's Ownership area: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). Good luck, and please keep us posted.

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rollie · April 2001

Regarding post #217:

ryskit, I had a similar problem once a few years back (I don't remember if it was with my old 850 turbo or S70 T5). Oddly, it turned out that it was in part due to a leather / vinyl treatment I was using (I'm pretty sure it was Armor All). For some reason under humid conditions if I had this stuff applied in the car it made a petrol-like smell. It also leaves a film on your windows (most noticeable at night or when your windows get foggy). Once I moved to Lexol I never had the problem again. I don't know if this might be your cause but I do recall having a similar problem and finding it was essentially a chemical reaction between the car and the protectants (I use the term loosely because I'm not a fan of Armor All) I was using.

Hope this helps.

Good luck.

-rdo
rdollie@home.com

susan59 · April 2001

I have a 98 XC wagon with 33,000 miles. Recently, I noticed the steering wheel shaking at lower speeds, so I brought it to the dealer. On the phone (before looking at it) they suggested that the tires might need to be replaced. This mileage seems low, and the treads look fine...I was also told by a tire dealer that 33,000 miles is pretty good for an AWD car. The dealership rotated and balanced the tires...they thought the problem was solved, but it's not. Ater talking to the dealer again, they are pretty certain the tires need to be replaced. Has anyone had a similar experience? The dealer has yet to explain what's wrong with tires. Thanks.

alwaysed · April 2001

Susan59: See my Post162;
It may apply to the XC, push the issue with the parts dept. and service.

ammec · April 2001

Does anyone know why Volvo does not offer xenon headlamps on any of their cars? Will they be offered in the future? Seems like alot of the other luxury car makers are offering them on theirs. Any comments appreciated. Thanks

bobs18 · April 2001

I live in Northern Atlanta area. I'm interested in the next few months in purchasing a Volvo Wagon. Does anyone have experience with the following dealers: Chris, Dye and Dye, and North Point or others not far away? Any idea where the best deal can be achieved and information about their service Departments? Thanks in advance.

bthomassen · April 2001

Sbussell

I live in So NH too and work in MA. Stay away from 128 Volvo, by any means. Merrimack Street in Manch. is great & Lovering in Concord is great. I've purchased from Merrimack st. & their service is great. Lovering in Nashua is alright, but i have not purchased from them yet. I have owned 4 Volvos. Call Cliff @ Merrimac Street. He's great.

sdoyon · April 2001

I have a similar question as Gary's - that is, has anyone put a rear-mounted bike rack on a V70. I, too, dislike the top mounted bike racks. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

paddingtonbear · April 2001

Anyone figure out how to get both the third row & subwoofer? I know there are volvo parts places that sell the third row kit. What about installing a subwoofer after purchasing the XC with the third row?

rpfundst · April 2001

My wife and I are looking for a new wagon with safety and durability key attributes. We've gotten it down to the Volvo V70 2.4t and the VW Passat GLX. On paper they look comparable except in the $ dept. where the VW comes out ahead. Test drove a 2001 V70 2.4t w/ cold weather group and leather group. Great car! The one I drove was used -- only 8 months old w/ 23K miles. Seems the dealer sells these to a company that drives execs around DC. To and from airport up to capital hill and the like and then turns them (the cars) in when they accumulate around 20k miles. The dealer says his bottom line is $29,000 for this car. Since I plan on keeping whatever car I buy for the long term I don't mind someone else taking the hit on initial dep. and this price levels the field w/ the VW. My question is does this sounds like a good price and might there be some more wiggle room?

alwaysed · April 2001

Several months ago, when I was looking for my car, I was offered a 2001 V70 T5, 7500 miles, 8 mos old at 11% below MSRP. I passed on that offer because of the age, not the price. At that time (Dec. 00), posts on this board indicated a high frequency of reliability issues with early delivery units (before Aug.00). It does not sound like your car falls into that time frame.
However, ask them for the service record and see if any fixes match the earlier reliability posts on this board.

garyct · April 2001

I've decided the best set up for me is to have an after market tow hitch from "draw-tite" installed. They just came out with a model that does installs using existing holes, 1 1/4" for 01 V70's!

http://www.draw-tite.com/findhtch/results3.asp?make=Volvo&year=2001&class=CLASS+I&model=V70&style=&Go=Go

I'll then put a thule or yakima hitch bike rack on the back and away we go!!!!!!!!!

Gary

hbb · April 2001

In looking at the invoice and MSRP prices in Edmunds and KBB, I see that base car prices are now 30456 invoice and 32400 MSRP. Several days ago on Edmunds they were 32148 Invoice and 34200 MSRP. Anybody know if these prices have actually dropped about $1800? I'd like to know cause I'm close to buying and I'll wait if the price has dropped.
Thanks

larryrod · April 2001

FYI:

Here's a list of problems we've encountered with our 2001 V70 T5. It's been a disappointing vehicle to own given all the problems. Fun to drive, but not fun to drag into the shop for repairs all of the time. The wheel hub blowing out was pretty scary. BTW, the car has not been driven hard, so the problems aren't related to unusal usage.

1. Steering rack was off center, front wheel was hitting the inner wheel well. Both front steering stops had to be retightened and adjusted.

2. Defect in upper part of steering column discovered. Steering shaft/countershaft was replaced.

3. Sharp clunking noise was detected coming from left front quadrant of the car. The subframe O ring was defective and replaced.

4. The front wheel hub failed while driving at 30 mph, the bearings were completely shot. The wheel hub had to be replaced.

5. Just happened this weekend..., the rear tailgate wiper is not working, the fuel gauge does not register any fuel even with a full tank, and the rear passenger and tailgate door locks do not function. These problems emerged simultaneously. Fuses are intact, so must be something else. Car will be in the shop, again, tomorrow.

And there have been some less serious defects:

- Squeaking glove box-spring needed lube.
- loose material in rear passenger door, caused buzzing noise with bass sound from stereo, needing fixing twice.
- cup holders in rear fold-up table warped and needed to be replaced.

We've discovered enough problems with the car by now, so what does Volvo send to us in the mail this weekend, a new lug wrench with instructions to immediately discard the old lug wrench, so obviously the existing lug wrench was defective as well. I took one look at the lug portion of the original wrench and immediately saw the design problem. One would think something simple like a lug wrench would be designed properly the first time. It validates my overall disappointing experience with the quality of our particular vehicle. Hopefully other owners have had a better experience with their 2001 V70 T5.

Lastly, in fairness to the people in the service department at our Volvo dealer, they have been very helpful and courteous and the mechanics seem to do quality work.

hbb · April 2001

Hi folks;
Just bought a 2001 2.4T. Should pick it up tomorrow. Anybody have any opinions about Volvo pitched VIP extended warranties. I'm guessing that you can buy other warranties for less money, but these aren't always problem free because they weren't Volvo Factory extended warranties. Volvo VIP plan prices range from $1440 for a 75k mile 5 year (really 25k 1 year) to $3025 for 6 year 125k miles. Since I don't do alot of miles, looks like their best buy for me is a 7 year 85k at $2110. Just wonder if anybody thinks they're worth it.
Thanks.

dardson1 · April 2001

had a 94 850 non turbo wagon.....nothing terribly wrong but fairly consistently in the shop for one minor problem or the other...traded for a 98 V70 GLT....nothing terribly wrong but fairly consistently in the shop for one minor problem or the other....love Volvos, love how they drive, love how they look, love the whole darn idea, but just didn't have time to keep the thing up....bought a Toyota....sorry Volvo guys....and those new wagons are absolutely beautiful...if I was retired with nothing to do but tend to the car, I might even consider one.

bulkleycorp · April 2001

That's precisely why I didn't buy a new V70 2.4T.
These boards, though not a statistically valid sample gives one the impression that there are
nitty problems with the newer volvos.

Any way, I liked the Saab 9.5 waqon and bought it 3 weeks ago!

kscheu · April 2001

Has any other owner of a 2001 V70XC had problems with the alarm going off by itself? This problem started in February (we got the car new in December 2000) and after finally convincing the service department at our dealer it really was happening, they got it to do it in the service bay by itself after 2 days. Needless to say, the dealer was CLUELESS as to what the problem was and kept the car for a week to try and figure it out. Finally, they claimed they fixed it and now, tonight it is happening again. We are fed up with this problem and of course the service department is closed on the weekends. Also, probably related, the moon roof took several tries to close while the alarm kept going off both in February and this occasion as well. I'd love to hear back from the author of message #169 to see if they had any luck, etc. Any other 2001 V70 XC problems out there?

losthat1 · April 2001

Yes, I too am in love with the drive and ride of Volvo. I have owned four -- now am down to one. Reason -- in the shop over and over again for little and big problems especially with anything that involves electronics. Lights, windows, alarm, etc.etc.etc......must tell anyone planning to buy a Volvo to plan on spending lots of time and money getting work done and then redone. Look back over earlier posts and you will see I am not alone. How depressing that a wonderful car can be so unreliable, especially considering the price. I just don't have the energy or time to deal with all this.

My first Volvo was a 240 wagon bought in 1980s---reliable to the core.....the newer the Volvo the worse the problems get! Sad, sad, sad....and even sadder that there seems to be no end in sight!

thaviland · May 2001

I'm going to purchase a Draw-Tite trailer hitch made to fit my Volvo wagon.

However, I've been getting conflicting stories on whether I need to wire from the battery using Draw-Tite's modulelite kit or if it's OK to use just a convertor and tap into the existing taillight wiring.

Draw-Tite apparently feels that many of the new cars today have very sophisticated electrical systems that can be overloaded and damaged if an additional load (such as the draw from a trailer's lights) is placed on the existing electrical system and therefore Draw-Tite believes that by running a completely separate wire to the battery solely to power the trailer avoids the risk of damaging the Volvo's electric components and computer. Is the additional work to run a wire from the battery to the back of the car really necessary or is there plenty of power and proper gauge wiring to just use a convertor and tap the Volvo's taillight wiring? Also, are you aware of any software update that would be needed to update my car's computer when I add the trailer wiring?

As additional information, I will be towing a lightweight kayak trailer that only has rear lights on the trailer.

Thanks for any and all information that you can provide on this subject.

Tom

psevalia · May 2001

My wife and I are looking to buy a V70 Wagon. I have the following questions:

1) We're in the Bay area. What prices have folks paid (over invoice) for
either the V70 or the V70 2.4T? Either $ or percentage will work.

2) Is the base model power sufficient in automatic mode? I thought it
was relatively sufficient when I test drove it, but want to hear from
folks who have been driving this car for a while.

3) Has anyone had success in negotiating the Advertising charges that all
dealers seem to charge?

4) I'm getting conflicting reports of reliability on this forum. Some say they
love it, most say there are minor issues. If you are dissatisfied with the
Volvo V70, can you please post here with your reasons as to why you
are dissatisfied? Alternatively, drop me an email...

5) The V70 2.4T comes ONLY with leather and sunroof. Many dealers have
checked inventory all over california and that's the only way they ship them.
One can't even order a 2.4T without a sunroof any more. Also the brochure
specifies that these are options. Seems like Volvo's trying to maximize
profits. Is there any law against this and if so, where can one file a complaint?

Thank you very much for your help

PS

garyct · May 2001

I ordered my T5 the end of March and is due June 1st, I ended up special ordering from the factory to get all the options and color I wanted. My favorite dealer that is less than 2 miles away sold me the car for $900 over invoice plus $400 advertising fee. I was satisfied overall with the deal. It was important for me that my salesman feel good about the sale and doesn't feel like I "beat him up" too much. I did "cave" more than I usually do because I like the dealership. So for me I think I walked this line pretty well. I also got him to throw in the Stonegurd Lite package for my lights (worth about $100). They also have 5.9% finacing for 3 years that I'll take advantage of.

I'm curious what others have paid for the car, I bet my deal was "average or slightly better than average" but not the absolute best deal.

What prices have you been quoted?

good luck,

Gary

chef228 · May 2001

Our 2001 XC, also picked up in December, just started doing the same thing. I saw another post with the same problem. He said dealer fixed the problem. We are seeing ours on Wednesday. I'll let you know if we have further problems.

vigorous1 · May 2001

Volvo promises action after German breakdown survey

Volvo's reputation for producing reliable cars has been hit by a survey of a 1.6 million breakdowns.

The report, which documents cars which broke down on German motorways last year, places Volvo in fourth position for having the most breakdowns.

The only cars to place worse than Volvo models were Renault's Espace, Fiat's Bravo, Brava and Marea, and Opel's Omega. The company has promised action.

The 850, S70, V70 and C70 series were the most likely of the Volvos to experience some kind of problem.

The survey was carried out by the respected German automobile organisation Adac, and only included cars between the ages of four and six years old.

Volvo spokesman, Olle Axelsson, told the Sydsvenska Dagbladet newspaper: "The truth is that we have not concentrated on quality the past few years, but we will now analyse and correct the problems."

Last updated: 09:59 Sunday 13th May 2001

http://www.ananova.co.uk/news/story/sm_291074.html?menu=news.surveys

jpm9 · May 2001

Looking at a 1 year old 2000 V70 SE (20,000 miles) with cold weather pkg and Moonroof. The Carfaxx report states it was reg. as a Rental. The Volvo Dealer is asking $26,480. He will also add a 2yr/24,000mile warranty on top of the 4yr/50,000 for an additional $500. The car drove fine and is in great shape.
Is this a fair price?
Should he include the warranty since it was a rental?

Also we asked that he include a security cover for the back and the removable roof racks. Does anyone know what these cost? And has anyone had problems with road noise when using the removable roof racks?

alwaysed · May 2001

First, my security cover was about $280 in '98; my dealer told me roof racks could be $400-$800. But, earlier posts have indicated some lower prices for on dealer installed racks.

The supplemental warranty could be worth it if you will keep the car for 70m miles and if the coverage applies to any Volvo dealer. The price may be a bit high, but include the warranty in the $26480 and a commitment by the dealer to fix any rattles-these cars had a few in the instrument panel. Also, I would insist on a service history.

pickybuyer1 · May 2001

I've had my '01 XC since February, and have almost 5000 miles on it. No alarm problems at all. I did have remote entry problems and they had to replace the control module. Just wondering if the control module at the heart of your alarm problems.

except for the remote control problems, the car is/has been fantastic. I'd buy it again.

pocahontas · May 2001

Please note: in the Additional Resources box on the left side of the page, you'll now find a link to Edmunds.com's Volvo V70 video clip.

Keep a look out for other related V70 articles, features, and discussions in that area. Happy Motoring!

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illv70 · June 2001

I have a 1999 V70. 2 problems still occuring since purchase: 1). occasionally, depressing the brake causes a clicking' on the pedal, and sometimes a strong 'thumping'. I can actually feel' the pulsations under the pedal. The service team can't seem to understand it and refer to it as a normal' feature that would occur during strong braking or braking over bumps. However, the problem occurs at low speeds also and on smooth roads.
2). Speakers: occasionally the right front speakers seem to fade out. Can't tell if it's the dash or door. Have had both speakers replaced and radio replaced. Still occuring.
Any help would be appreciated.

rdeschene · June 2001

With regards to your brakes. It could just be your ABS activating, which it will - especially if you're braking on a loose (e.g. gravel) or slippery surface. I can feel this on my car (93 Corsica) too.

If it's a lot more pronounced than usual, I experienced that too this past winter. Something was frozen or stuck, and running through a car wash with underspray took car of it. There could be something frozen, not do to ice, but just due to a poorly lubed service. You could try jacking up the car, taking each wheel off and spraying the articulating parts of the brakes with a penetrating lube like WD-40. I'd try the wash first.

alwaysed · June 2001

I remember having the brake pedal pulsations on my '98 V70, occassionally, when I didn't think ABS should be engaged. It definitely felt like the ABS system was activated, but it happened so infrequently I disregarded it.

psevalia · June 2001

For those who need pricing references:

Bought a Volvo V70 2.4T at $300 above invoice, with the advertising charge of $400 waived. Doesn't matter what the dealers say, the advertising charge is completely negotiable.

I live in the San Francisco Bay area.

I talked to a few more dealers and all were ready to deal. Seems like mid-30K cost cars are not moving quickly, and all want to deal. The last day of June is coming up, it will be the end-of-the-month and end-of-the-quarter, so I am sure that deals will be very good then.

I also used an information service to get details on incentives, rebates, negotiation tactics, etc.
If you want the name, please email me. I am not posting the name here because I don't
want to blatantly advertise their services on a public forum.

PS

cad2002 · June 2001

I am in the market and will probably purchase a new XC within the next week or so. I have been given a quote of one percent above invoice from the dealer that services my current Volvo. (It is my fifth new Volvo in 33 years). I am aware of and entitled to the loyalty bonus. I also know that the dealer receives a one percent dealer holdback which I will consider not an item for negotiation.
I am curious if there are any other special "end of model year" incentives that might be available and should be considered in any negotiation. I live on the east coast and it appears that there are a lot of new 2001 XC's available. Summer is probably not the best time to move them.
How do I contact you if you have some other suggestions that might make me a better informed consumer?
Thanking you in advance.

psevalia · June 2001

Hi

I guess I thought people could click on my UID and could send me email. Not true, unfortunately. I wanted to avoid plugging other websites or companies, but since it is not easy to email someone through Town Hall, here is my experience.

I obtained information from Fighting Chance, www.fightingchance.com; It's worth the $30 that you pay to get information on one car, totally. They will give you very up to date information on recent sales, inventory situations, current incentives, as well as what prices people got on Volvos in your area. In addition, there is other information such as how to negotiate, etc. Worth every penny.

Another website which has useful reading is
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/carintro.html

The 1% of MSRP that is dealer holdback should be considered for negotiation as should be Customer Service Index bonuses, etc. Yes, dealers are in business to make a profit, and so you can give them a fair profit. The profit that you give them should include the above $$.

I did not find any end of the model year incentives. I called Volvo and they said they were still building 2001 cars. Not much information is available in various car mags about 2002 models, so I suspect that we are a few months away from 2002 model introduction. If you can wait till October, then you could probably get an end of the year deal. But, the 2001 will already have depreciated by then and so it may not be a wise idea to get that deal.

My other tips:

1) Negotiate on the last day of the month or quarter. If it is both, even better. Bottom line, dealers need to make sales quotas and they will definitely give you a good deal then. Closing the deal at around 7-8 pm will get you the best deal. I bought three cars in this manner and I have got better deals than everybody that I know.

2) Negotiate the advertising charges. It's just cost of doing business so why should they pass it on to you ?

3) Negotiate other freebies such as Free Scheduled maintenance, free options, etc. Everything is negotiable. See what they will give you, because maintenance is expensive (as you know) on these European cars.

4) Get buy-in from a salesperson. If he/she has invested time with you, then they will definitely be willing to negotiate. That means call them for clarifications, talk to them, go out on a test drive with them, etc. And be up front with them about what you are thinking. I knew that I would buy from a particular dealership if they were within $200 of the lowest price. Because I got the salesperson invested in the process, I got the best price from this dealership. Also, let them know that you will be servicing the car at that dealership and so they can make money off you in the service.

5) Be prepared to walk. You can always buy it next month. Or they may close their books a day late and call you with a "deal" the next day. If you are in a hurry to buy a car and you show it, they will not be willing to negotiate as hard.

6) Get the no-hassle price from the web. It's a useful reference point. And you can always use it if you don't want to negotiate. But, if dealers are willing to offer a car for $500 over invoice (without negotiations) via some Internet referral (Autovantage, Autoweb, etc.), and if the Internet is in 60% of US households, I am sure I can do better than $500 over invoice, because I like to negotiate. (If most people can get it for $500 over, I am sure I can do better.) This is what I was thinking when I didn't use this service.

7) Sound intelligent. You don't have to spout info, but let them know that you are informed. The above websites will allow you to be that.

Hope this helps:

A disclaimer: I have just condensed all my reading and experience into the above points. I am sure you will see the same information elsewhere. I am not plagiarizing, but I don't know where I picked up what information so I am not specifying the source of it.

Regards

PS

Volvo V70 Wagon Experience

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