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Comments
There's only about 4 months left on my lease and I'd hate to have to invest that much in the car at this point (in addition to the 4 new tires the car needs). Given the number of other problems the car has had (headlights, front end, rear seat belts, etc., but mostly covered by warranty), I'm not too interested in buying the lease out either.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Alex
George
If you can hold out, give it a shot and leave the tires on. There is a very good chance they will not charge you anything if re-up for a new lease car. Also, they may let out you early on your present lease, if you re-up.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Station Wagons.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Hope this is helpful
Eric
Thanks
Since I am still shopping I am dropping in and out of all the wagon boards and links and club sites to "keep abreast". Like I've said before...I'd just as soon keep on test driving....having fun doing that...!! Drove another T5 wagon on Friday and a SAAB Aero wagon the same day...the dealers are across the street from each other...more on this later if I get inspired.
The brake rotor/pad wear issue relates directly to your driving style and pad material. Let me relate the experience I had with my last Volvo wagon. IMHO I am a very smooth driver (my Police Officer son often says that I really don' t do too badly for an old fart). Smooth driving gets you a lot less wear on all of your components in addition to better mileage (and you don't have to drive slow to drive smoothly....I had a complete IPD suspension kit on the car along with a Weber two throat, header and straight through exhaust and of course performance tires) In 307K miles on that wagon I never had a problem with my rotors (never had the head off the engine either....oooooh, pat me on the back....;-)...) The rear pads would always wear a little more quickly than the fronts because they do work harder than the fronts. As I recall I would typically get around 60 to 90K on the fronts. I don't know for sure but the rotors on the older cars might have been thicker...that might also be a factor.
For longer brake pad life you can go to a harder pad material. You can find info on the pros and cons on changes to your system components from the guys at IPDUSA.COM. They were (and likely will continue to be) my favorite Volvo parts, toys, and accessories store.
Jesse
I experienced the same thing about 2 weeks ago and my dealership had it resolved in about 30 minutes.
There is a Technical Service Bulletin that came out about May relating to the S80 platform, but it also applies to the V70.
Essentially, the noise comes from the bottom piece of the steering column (the column is made up of 3 pieces). Basically, the bottom part just isn't shifting correctly with the other two parts.
The TSB calls for the part to be removed, and a special lubricant that the dealership has to order needs to be applied. Also, the part is reinstalled using a different set of bolts. The total job takes under 1 hour.
Hope this helps,
Chris
get about 30 in pure highway mode.
As for gas mileage I am getting 22 to 23.5 in mixed driving.
I really felt it, but I did also hear it. It sounds like we're describing the same thing. I've been told that a number of '01 V70 owners have had this issue. The fix is quick, it just means finding a dealer who keeps up to date on the TSB's!
Good Luck,
Dan
Thanks
Regarding earlier post on V70 in the snow. Ours is a '01 V70 T5 with the 17" wheels. Last winter we put on 4 Michelin Artic Pilots on 16" steel wheels, I do not recall the actually tire size. We live in the Boston area and we made it through last winter no problem, we drove in all types of conditions. The traction control was nice to have but it rarely kicked in - fwd is fine for a New England winter, add 4 good snow tires and you are that much better off.
Also, I'm noticing a lot of negative comments about Volvo reliability. That's a concern for me, as I've owned Toyotas for the past 13 years and don't even have a mechanic because I haven't needed one in so long. Anyone want to tell the other side of the story??
I have a 1998 V70 Wagon (the base model) with 55 K miles. I brought the car because it was making a noise when turning. On Friday, I got the bad news that the boots on the steering rack were cracked which allowed dirt in them and I have to replace the Steering rack at over $1000.
I'm wondering if this is common? Some web research I've done indicates that it is important to maintain the steering rack by inspecting it and flushing the system. However, I have found no references to this on any of the boards here and nothing on the NTSB site for this year and model (although there was something about 1997 850's).
I'm just wondering if this is common, if this will continue to happen and if there anything I can do to prevent it in the future.
Thanks for your help.
Dorothy
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
The V70 2.4 no turbo in my opinion is underpowered
you better off with turbo
Regarding reliability - so far, so good
Good luck with your choice
My power steering rack was replaced at 25,000 miles. It was covered under warranty. Volvo dealer had no explanation as to what went wrong.
It also needed the tie-rod ends replaced and air pump from the emission control system replaced at the same time. Also covered under warranty.
My wife has an incredible emotional attachment to this car and really babies it. So I know these failures are not from abuse. I like the car too but I am tiring from all the repairs.
Good Luck !
I wish someone from Volvo USA subscribed to this board! The dealers are SO unhelpful!
It is hidden under right rear seat. The simple kind of
plastic slid (provided) need to be attached in order to install child
seat.
The think is that you need child seat to fit to
this system. I have impression, this child seat is
available in Europe only
Wondering if anyone can tell me if I can add front fog lights to my car. Would this be an after market type of thing? If, so any idea how much this would cost?
Any incentives going on.
I heard a lot of people getting good deals like 36K for a fully loaded. Please help, I need to buy one within the next 2 weeks
Thanks
James
Ok. Thanks for the input. I thought the figures indicated a car that should retail for about $32 or so. But then they came down easily to $29K. I still don't want to spend more than $25K but think they'll laugh in my face. Is it your opinion that I could get them to $25K? Should I be able to do that and then get them to give me a few K for my Trade? Or am I only gonna be able to get them to $25K with the trade. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY should I be spending this much money on a used car? Volvo or no Volvo. Thanks in advance for any response. Chris
Good luck. Dont be intimidated, and dont get fixated on a dealer car. THere are lots of private party cars out there, and at that mileage, you can still buy an extended warranty if you are really concerned about reliability. I cant address that part of your question, but I do follow Volvo fairly closely and havent seen much evidence that there are any serious XC specific problems.
Good luck
Mike
Any advice? Any horror stories? Whatever 11th hour input I can get would be appreciated.
Is the 2.4T underpowered ??? Is the ride any different ???
Thanks...
Glad to hear it's all resolved. It's a great car, hopefully these little annoyances won't happen too often.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
As far as awd Im an avid sierra skier, and snows and Spikes spider chains (on in 2 min off in 3)drive at the posted speed (30 mph max) and there should be no problem. If you drive a safe car and drive safely why do you need awd.My last 3 cars were a 95 subaru, a 88 740 which I thought was a better snow car with the spiders and now the 940 with dual airbags and abs. I can afford anything I want, but dont always choose new and better/best, although I do have a sweet 2k saab convertible.
I would recommend to drive both, making sure to experience both of them at full throttle under a variety of conditions and make your decision based on that. Personally, I did not feel safe merging in the 2.4T. I live in the SF bay area and people drive crazy fast on the freeways sometimes. Its my experience that fast lane speeds are, on average, in excess of 80 mph. With the huge velocity differentials between that and the slow lanes, its important to get up to speed quick.
So, as you can see, there are several practical reasons to pick a car with more power, and this is just one of the most obvious. Another might be to compensate for a heavy load (as you might experience with all your soccer kids in the car) or just to adapt to local driving conditions (lots of hills where more power helps you out, or a very urban commute with lots of freeway merging to do)....
I drive a 196hp Mitsubishi V6 and the performance in my 3100 lb car is great. I don't know how much heavier the V70 is than the S60 but I can't imagine that the 2.4T wouldn't be fine.
I'm considering the S60 for my next car (Nov.2002) but money is tight and the base with premium package (moonroof, leather, pwr. seat, CD) stickers around 31000. The 2.4T with very little additional equipment is over 34000. I can't justify the extra money. But I think the base performance in that car will be fine. I just won't be taking out people at stoplights like I do now.
I have some similar thoughts about the V40 vs. V70. The V40 with premium package approaches $30,000. The V70 base is almost $35,000. One big difference is that the V40 is smaller (2800 lbs vs 3700 lbs for the V70). The safety equipment is about the same, but the weight difference has safety implications too. Also, Consumer Reports suggests that there are greater reliability problems with the V70 than with the V40. Because of all of this, it
is difficult to decide which one to buy, although I'm leaning toward the V40.
You could try stopping into a local Volvo dealer and talking to the service manager or a tech. When you tell them you arent buying a car at their dealership and just want advice, they will probably be more than happy to share their candid experience. The tech at my dealer told me that the old V70's were horrible, from a warranty work standpoint, but that they havent seen many problems with the new ones.