The seat rail mod is holding up great, no problems after 3 years and 33,000 miles. I weigh about 270, so if holds up for me, it should be safe for most others.
I wouldn't think a dealer would do it, but if you could find anyone that is handy with a wrench and a drill, its an easy mod.
- MY01 Subaru Outback Ltd (purchased August 00). Not the LL Bean model. Manual transmission
- 88K miles
- any and all engine work done at the place I purchased: Fitzgerald Subaru in Rockville, MD
- Never any front end impacts
Here's the bottom line up front: can the A/C compressor be damaged or lock up due to incomplete or shoddy work done on the engine the previous day? The engine work done was a complete clutch replacement and head gasket replacement.
More background: I took my car to the service shop to get an oil change only. However, I asked them to check why I was getting "flaring" (press on gas, engine revs, but car doesn't accelerate correspondingly) and I noticed that there was a sweet burning smell.
They diagnose it as a worn clutch and completely replace it ($1700, but my GEICO mech breakdown insurance covered it). They diagnose the smell as a head gasket leak, and replace it (free under SOA warranty).
I pick up the car, and notice that when I tried to defog the front window with the air conditioner, it fails. I also notice that the air blowing isn't cold. However, it was working perfectly before I dropped it off!
There was also a clicking sound coming from the engine, and a different type of burning smell.
I drop it back off the next day, and they call me after diagnosing it. They tell me that the A/C compressor has locked up, and it needs to be replaced (~$700).
Of course I inquired if they could have damaged it, have it damage itself (because they hooked something up incorrectly) or otherwise banged it which led to its demise. They assure me that it isn't possible.
I also call my GEICO mechanical breakdown rep, and they can not see how it could be damaged due to their previous day's repairs because they say the clutch/head gaskets are in a different part of the engine bay from the A/C compressor.
However, I spoke to my brother who is well versed in Hondas & Miatas (who has even done engine replacements on Civics & Miatas) and he said that because of the previously working condition of the A/C, he finds it hard to believe they didn't do the damage.
I call up GEICO again and express my concerns to a different technician. This person supports the previous GEICO tech's opinion.
This conflicting information has me confused. Please let me know what you think.
I also tried doing a search on technical service bulletins for my car, and I didn't find anything pertaining to A/C compressors. Do you know a central archive for Subaru TSBs? Thanks for any help and opinions.
They might have sprung a leak or expelled the gas and forgot to refill during the HG repair. Hence,no cold air and lock up since there's an absence of lubricant in the compressor.
Thanks for the info Dave and Craig. Now how do I express this intelligibly to them? They already know I can't speak or understand car talk, so after saying any of these things, I'm not even sure how I could prove it's their fault.
Wouldn't they need to remove the compressor from the engine to access the head gasket? I would think that they'd need to pull everything off the front of the engine to dig that deeply into it. When I pulled the engine out of my '96, I obviously had to take it off, but I left the hoses connected and just moved it out of the way along with the power steering pump, intake manifold, etc. The only parts (other than the engine) that were completely removed were the hood, altenator, and (engine coolant) radiator.
Every mechanic's tactics vary, but for me, the simplest method is always the best.
If the A/C compressor worked immediately prior but not immediately after the repair, 95% chance that the damage is related to the repair.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
A tough one... The AC compressor is on the drivers side, and I believe that there is enough free play to allow the compressor and lines to remain intact while the head is serviced.
When left undisturbed, mechanical things often chug on forever. The act of moving it might have caused something internal to stick, or something loose to break free. An overtighted belt might have toasted a bearing or front seal. The problem is going to be proving it. Without getting an honest post-mortem, you are probably going to be left with the bill...
What is the ground clearance for the 05 Legacy 2.5i wagon?
The salespeople know it for the Outback but not Legacy. One says one inch, another says the driving position on the OBW is 3" higher for a more commanding view of the road."
The Legacy has 150mm of ground clearance, which is about 5.9".
The Outback has 8.3", 8.7" for the XT.
Don't buy an Outback because of the higher sitting position, buy it because you need the ground clearance (like I do), or because you like the ruggedness or the looks.
The higher sitting position is not different enough to make a difference, especially when more than half the cars on the road are pickups, SUVs, and minivans.
The 2005 OB 2.5i has a posted MPG range of 22/28. I'm wondering how this translates into real life. What kinds of averages are people getting for combined city/interstate driving? I'm wondering if my #s are relatively-normal or not.
What are the procedures for driving with donut spare tire on automatic transmission Outback? i.e. how far, how fast and how long can you drive? Do you need to disable the AWD system, etc?
You might also look at the Dunlop MS-3 snows. I have them on my 05 OBXT. They're real highly rated in tire racks customer surveys,but pretty pricey ($135 through tire rack and $160 locally including mounted).
I haven't tried them in heavy snow yet, but like them so far on dry and light snow/ice conditions.
Take a look at your Owners Manual - the procedure is spelled out there.
Basically, you put a fuse in that forces the system into FWD mode. It is very important to activate this mode when the donut is on - you'll damage the differential if you don't. And you probably shouldn't exceed 50mph with the donut on. I wouldn't plan on doing much driving with it - it's designed for temporary use really. Get the tire repaired/replaced so you can remove the donut ASAP.
I'm not sure if the VTD version of the AT has a different procedure. The above is certainly applicable for the 'active' AT's.
I'll add one other thing to Brian's reply: If you don't mind doing the extra jacking, it is best to put the doughnut spare on the front rather than the back. The front differential is 'open', so the circumference difference in the tires does not matter. The rear has a limited slip diff which will be fighting the tire size difference the entire time. Granted, you shouldn't be driving very far on the spare, but you will save substantial wear on the clutch pack if you are willing to work on the roadside a little bit more.
Just to answer Brian's question -- my 05 OB XT with VTD and 5EAT does not have the FWD fuse. However, 2.5i model Outbacks with the 4EAT and active AWD do have the fuse.
I am thinking of using 16" Forester steel rim to replace my donut spare tire on my Outback. Unfortunately the full size spare tire will not fit the spare tire compartment. I will put it in the rear cargo area. It will not be a pretty site to see. I don't want to fiddle with fuse to disable the awd when I am using the donut tire. My question is: will the 16" Forester steel wheel fit on the Outback?, and do you still need to disable the AWD with the full size spare tire since the circumference might not be the same? Thanks for your reply in advance.
How often do you plan to have flat tires? I've had one in 28 years, so it's really not something I worry about. I just keep my tires in good shape.
If the cirumference is signifcantly different you still need to pull the fuse, but I don't know what the exact tolerance is, something like 1/4" diameter. Should be in your owner's manual.
I am picking up my silver 2.51 outback in 4 days. It has the auto dimming mirror, the upgraded amp and the upgraded security system. Any suggestions on accessories that you would add?
Regarding accessories, I also purchased the compass on the rear view mirrow and the subwoofer to enhance the sound system. Oh and I got the arm rest extender which comes in handy on long trips.
Good luck with your new acquisition.
Bob
And I got the rear cargo net. It helps when you buy take out food and don't want it shifting around in your trunk.
Thanks everybody for the suggestions. Have one more request. Has anyone had any experience with an aftermarket MOONROOF. I love the one on the LTD but not for an extra $3000. I can get a 43 x 43 one installed for about $1300. Don't know the size of the Subaru one.
I am looking at buying a 05 Outback Turbo with a 5-speed. Does anyone know about the optional short-throw shifter kit? Is it a good option? The dealer also mentioned a company approved chip that boosts horsepower by 30 or so hp. Any comments about this chip?
Many people have had good luck with aftermarket moonroofs. The only downside I can think of is that they can't really match the structural bracing and rigity of a factory moonroof.
The short shift kit does a nice job, but it will increase shift effort a smidge. If you are happy with the stick shifter, would stay with that. However, if you want a faster, tighter shift feel, get the short throw kit. In both cases, keep in mind that shift speed/action will still be limited by the synchros.
Cobb tuning makes something called the "AccessPort" that will allow you to load more agressive maps into the ECU, giving anywhere from 30HP on up depending on the map used, octane of gas, exhaust tuning, etc. However, these are not approved by Subaru and will certainly void the warranty if detected. The AccessPort allows you to restore the ECU to the factory map if you need to bring it in for service and you are worried about warranty issues.
Been a long time since I've visited. Now I've got a couple of questions that bring be back.
My OEM tires have 57K mi on them (01 VDC), and have noticed that handling in the snow we've had so far is obviously worse this year.
So I looked back over several discussions about tires to get an idea of what was recommended. I had several in mind, then went to Tirerack to check them out. I had pretty much settled on Goodyear Assurance triple tread based on the tirerack survey results, then noticed they don't come in H ratings for the size I was looking for (225/60-16). I only saw that tire mentioned once or twice on the subaru discussions also.
The Turanzas were mentioned several times here, but according to the tirerack survey they didn't have as good snow traction.
Who do I believe? I lean towards all of you, of course... Is having an H rating that important?
BTW, I want the best of everything! Good snow traction, good handling on dry & wet pavement, etc. I don't need to go off-road, tho. I want all season, don't want to have to get dedicated snow tires. (but maybe will consider that if you all have enough convincing arguments!)
Our family has expanded to include 2 large dogs (70# greyhound and 100# borzoi), and 1 cat. (no 2-legged offspring though).
I have a 2001 VDC wagon. We can fit the borzoi in the very back, and the cat & greyhound in the backseat. I need options for hauling luggage on trips (i.e. 6-7 hours). We have access to a hard-shell car-top carrier, or could get a soft carrier. We also discussed adding a hitch, and either using one of those platform-type cargo carriers, or a small (enclosed?) trailer.
The TireRack surveys are not always that useful in my opinion; sometimes I see polar opposite reviews of the same tire on the same car! They might be more aptly described as a survey of the drivers!
What is more important to you -- ride/comfort or handling?
Craig
BTW, the speed rating is very important, and I would not drop down unless you carry light payloads and travel at lower speeds. If you are ever on the highway with a full load of passengers, it makes sense to stick with the proper speed rating.
Re: your second post, I would pursue roof-top options before resorting to a trailer. With a trailer comes a lot of extra responsibility, and a reduction in the responsiveness and utility of your car as it tows.
I think I'd have to put handling above ride & comfort. We get plenty of snow, and our road doesn't tend to get cleared after a storm. And I generally have to go out no matter what.
I tend to drive faster than 75-80% of the other people on the freeway, btw. I prefer a sportier ride, and drive that way.
Regarding the chip. If you purchase the OB XT with its 250hp I can't imagine you will be yearning for any more power. It's a rocket. Estimates of 0-60mph in 5.9 seconds have appearing in car mags.
If as you say, you want the best of everything, and you live in the snow belt, then I suggest you go for the dedicated winter tires on their own wheels (Bridgestone Blizzaks).
Then get a nice set of Michelin Pilots for the rest of the year. You obviously keep your tires for a good long time (57,000 miles) so by getting two sets of wheels you can extend the life of the eight tires for quite awhile. By having the winter tires on their own wheels the changeover can be done easily. Load them in the trunk, go to the local gas station and for about $25 they will put them on quickly for you.
I have driven the standard 05 OBXT 5-speed and the throws seemed a little long, but quite enjoyable to drive. There was not a car equipped with a shift kit to try. I just wondered if it makes a significant difference. The extra cost is not a problem if it is a marked improvement.
The performance chip option was offered by the dealer. I specifically asked if it voided the warranty, and they said no. It is a $700 option. The dealer said a lot of the cost is for a licensing fee they have to pay to use the chip. I seem to recall they said the maker was an English company, but I could be mistaken.
I do not agree with Craig's position on tire speed rating. The speed rating is for "continuous speed". My 2.5l 5spd manual Outback maxes out at 5600rpm (in 5th) or 113 mph. That is the "continuous speed" rating of the Assurance Triple Tred "T" rated tire. My advise would be (as others have advised) to buy Blizzak dedicated "studless" ice tires and run them on separate dedicated wheels. For other options, I have resorted to the triple tred and my experience follows. However, unless you live in Europe, I wouldn't worry about the speed rating of tires over 100 mph. You might want to check out the TireRack.com thread on Tires for the Outback. Lotsa people don't like the RE92, and there have been a bunch of new postings (look under "Reviews") of the Goodyear "Assurance Triple Tred". General consensus seems to be they really like it. I have just bought a set even though I had only 4500 miles on my RE92s (Brand new 2.5 Outback wagon bought August 27th). The new tires seem better in every way, including cost, wet, dry and snow or ice handling. I recently drove to Mt. Bachelor, OR for a ski trip, and although there was NOT snow covered roads, there was ice and snow covered parking lots sufficient to give me confidence that the new tires (1500 miles) have much better traction than the Bridgestones. A note, they do better on acceleration and braking traction when done in a straight line, and not as good when turning (in snow), so try to get all of your speed alterations done in a straight line, and then begin your turns from a safe speed. They are an 80,000 mile tire, and on most types of surface, are quieter that the original tires.
How are the Blizzaks on dry pavement? Sure, we get snow, but most of the time during the winter I'll be driving on dry (or wet), not snow-covered pavement. Are they going to wear very quickly in those kind of conditions?
My VDC handled really good in snow with the OE Firestones until this year. So I'm thinking an all season tire would be fine.
I was leaning towards the Michelin Pilot A/S, even with it's steep price. (and not getting winter tires). Going back into early 2004 on the posts I saw that some had this tire and really liked it. What I didn't see was how many miles they lasted. Ralph/otis123 was hoping for 30K, but I don't think I found any posts to see how far he actually got. Ralph - are you still out there? Any more feedback?
I have tried the Legacy GT with both the standard shifter and the STi short throw kit and imagine it's identical in the OBXT. The short throw kit does reduce the throw length by about 1/3 but with it comes added shift effort. I personally didn't like the feel of the short throw because of the increased effort. Also, the short throw lever has less vibration dampening insulation.
The factory short throw kit is a bit pricey too. It's because Subaru replaces not just the shift lever, but the linkage and bushings as well.
Another option is to buy a shift lever replacement from aftermarket tuners like Cobb or Kartboy. Replacement is relatively easy and costs less than $100. I believe the Cobb unit is also has an adjustable shifter height as well. If you want to go one step further, I'm sure these companies will also offer harder shifter bushings to firm up the feel.
If you've been doing fine with all-seasons on your VDC, I would say continue to stick with all-seasons.
Dedicated winter tires are far superior to all-seasons on snow and ice, but the extra performance comes at a price. Not only do you need to maintain an extra set of tires, but the softer tread compound on winter tires do wear out faster on dry pavement and in warmer weather. Also, you do lose out on handling and cornering capaibilities with dedicated winter tires on dry pavement. The shoulder blocks and sipes that are designed to spread out and stick to snow and ice squirm on dry pavement.
As for speed ratings, I would definetly stay with at least the H-rating of the OE tires. Speed ratings measure the sidewall stiffness of the tire. People often incorrectly state that they can go with a lower rated tire simply because they don't drive at a specific speed. What they do not take into account is that the vehicle manufacturer is relying on a certain sidewall stiffness to maintain the level of handling designed for the vehicle.
The Blizzaks are awesome on ice but they do feel mushy on dry pavement.
The ice compound does wear fast on dry, you should get about two seasons out of them. After that, they will be down to the normal snow compound, no longer providing you with outstanding ice traction.
I do not agree with Craig's position on tire speed rating. The speed rating is for "continuous speed". My 2.5l 5spd manual Outback maxes out at 5600rpm (in 5th) or 113 mph. That is the "continuous speed" rating of the Assurance Triple Tred "T" rated tire.
This is a very common misconception about speed ratings. As Ken correctly noted, it's more about sidewall stiffness and construction. So you really should not downgrade the speed rating, especially if you push the vehicle with high speeds or heavy payloads.
From TireRack:
"Speed ratings are based on laboratory tests where the tire is pressed against a large diameter metal drum to reflect its appropriate load, and run at ever increasing speeds (in 6.2 mph steps in 10 minute increments) until the tire's required speed has been met.
It is important to note that speed ratings only apply to tires that have not been damaged, altered, under-inflated or overloaded."
The important thing to realize is that that raw speed ratings apply only when the tire is used under conditions consistent with the lab testing -- a tire pressed against a rotating drum at it's specified load rating, with the proper pressure. I don't know about anyone else, but the real-world driving conditions I encounter put a heck of a lot more stress on my tires than that. Between lousy roads, uneven passengers/loads, seasonal pressure variations, and the kinds of maneuvers I use to keep from getting run over, I know I subject my tires to a more rigorous routine that just simply rolling around. Personally, I will stick with the rating that the car manufacturer determined to be appropriate for the vehicle.
The performance chip option was offered by the dealer. I specifically asked if it voided the warranty, and they said no. It is a $700 option. The dealer said a lot of the cost is for a licensing fee they have to pay to use the chip. I seem to recall they said the maker was an English company, but I could be mistaken.
You should ask them for more specific details. I have been paying attention to ALL of the engine upgrades coming out for the 05 models, and have not heard of anything like this at all. None of it sounds believable to me!
A small trailer will certainly give you the most extra capacity, but then you have to deal with registrations, inspections, keeping the lights working, extra cost at tolls. How often will you really need/use it?
If you can get by with less extra capacity, a rooftop carrier is a good alternative. The soft types are remarkably good and reasonably priced -- I have one I got 4 - 5 years ago for about $30 (it's a well-known, common brand - more like $40 -50 these days). The great thing is that it rolls up into about the size of a football for storage, which also makes it easy to throw into the car to take along when we think we might need extra capacity for the trip home. The hard shell types are good, too, but much more expensive, and a pain to store.
My recommendation is to start with a soft top carrier. If it works for you, then your problem is solved. If you need something more, then you are only out a few bucks (and you may end up going back to the soft carrier after you've plunked down bigger bucks for the other options.
My wife owns an '00 OBW 4 cyl and has the head gasket problem. I'm considering buying an '05 OBW but want to know if the HG problem was confined to just the 4-cyl engines and during what years? Has it been corrected by now? What about in the turbo 4-cyl? Do the HG problems also appear in the 6 cyl? thanks.
Interesting observation Craig, I wouldn't attempt to convence anyone that one tire was better for their needs than another tire. However, because of your stated speed rating beliefs, you obviously can't recommend Blizzak WS-50 (or any other snow tire) for Cristine, because their speed rating is a "Q", and only good for 99 mph. The TripleTred is a very good all season tire, with better than average snow and ice traction (but it's NOT magic), and it has extremely stiff sidewalls, possibly as stiff as run flats (EMT). By the way, you were a little harsh on "Arnold" earlier on his probable ABS problem. Even if that is in fact his problem, maybe you should drink decaf before going on line to respond.
Comments
I wouldn't think a dealer would do it, but if you could find anyone that is handy with a wrench and a drill, its an easy mod.
Eric
- MY01 Subaru Outback Ltd (purchased August 00). Not the LL Bean model. Manual transmission
- 88K miles
- any and all engine work done at the place I purchased: Fitzgerald Subaru in Rockville, MD
- Never any front end impacts
Here's the bottom line up front: can the A/C compressor be damaged or lock up due to incomplete or shoddy work done on the engine the previous day? The engine work done was a complete clutch replacement and head gasket replacement.
More background: I took my car to the service shop to get an oil change only. However, I asked them to check why I was getting "flaring" (press on gas, engine revs, but car doesn't accelerate correspondingly) and I noticed that there was a sweet burning smell.
They diagnose it as a worn clutch and completely replace it ($1700, but my GEICO mech breakdown insurance covered it). They diagnose the smell as a head gasket leak, and replace it (free under SOA warranty).
I pick up the car, and notice that when I tried to defog the front window with the air conditioner, it fails. I also notice that the air blowing isn't cold. However, it was working perfectly before I dropped it off!
There was also a clicking sound coming from the engine, and a different type of burning smell.
I drop it back off the next day, and they call me after diagnosing it. They tell me that the A/C compressor has locked up, and it needs to be replaced (~$700).
Of course I inquired if they could have damaged it, have it damage itself (because they hooked something up incorrectly) or otherwise banged it which led to its demise. They assure me that it isn't possible.
I also call my GEICO mechanical breakdown rep, and they can not see how it could be damaged due to their previous day's repairs because they say the clutch/head gaskets are in a different part of the engine bay from the A/C compressor.
However, I spoke to my brother who is well versed in Hondas & Miatas (who has even done engine replacements on Civics & Miatas) and he said that because of the previously working condition of the A/C, he finds it hard to believe they didn't do the damage.
I call up GEICO again and express my concerns to a different technician. This person supports the previous GEICO tech's opinion.
This conflicting information has me confused. Please let me know what you think.
I also tried doing a search on technical service bulletins for my car, and I didn't find anything pertaining to A/C compressors. Do you know a central archive for Subaru TSBs? Thanks for any help and opinions.
-Dave
Craig
Now I have to decide whether it is worth doing the mod or liquidating the car for one that fits better.
Its my wife's car now though I do drive it on occaision. When I do, there are people in the backseat so it may defeat the purpose.
Every mechanic's tactics vary, but for me, the simplest method is always the best.
If the A/C compressor worked immediately prior but not immediately after the repair, 95% chance that the damage is related to the repair.
When left undisturbed, mechanical things often chug on forever. The act of moving it might have caused something internal to stick, or something loose to break free. An overtighted belt might have toasted a bearing or front seal. The problem is going to be proving it. Without getting an honest post-mortem, you are probably going to be left with the bill...
Steve
The salespeople know it for the Outback but not Legacy. One says one inch, another says the driving position on the OBW is 3" higher for a more commanding view of the road."
The 7.3 on my 97 OBW is more than adequate.
The Outback has 8.3", 8.7" for the XT.
Don't buy an Outback because of the higher sitting position, buy it because you need the ground clearance (like I do), or because you like the ruggedness or the looks.
The higher sitting position is not different enough to make a difference, especially when more than half the cars on the road are pickups, SUVs, and minivans.
Sly,
OBXT Ltd, going "off-road" every day!
The 2005 OB 2.5i has a posted MPG range of 22/28. I'm wondering how this translates into real life. What kinds of averages are people getting for combined city/interstate driving? I'm wondering if my #s are relatively-normal or not.
Thanks,
sb
Alland
I haven't tried them in heavy snow yet, but like them so far on dry and light snow/ice conditions.
Basically, you put a fuse in that forces the system into FWD mode. It is very important to activate this mode when the donut is on - you'll damage the differential if you don't. And you probably shouldn't exceed 50mph with the donut on. I wouldn't plan on doing much driving with it - it's designed for temporary use really. Get the tire repaired/replaced so you can remove the donut ASAP.
I'm not sure if the VTD version of the AT has a different procedure. The above is certainly applicable for the 'active' AT's.
-Brian
Steve
Craig
Ken
Alland
If the cirumference is signifcantly different you still need to pull the fuse, but I don't know what the exact tolerance is, something like 1/4" diameter. Should be in your owner's manual.
Sly
Craig
I also like the side cargo nets; they are good for putting small items behind so they don't roll around in the back.
Tim.
happy xmas
Good luck with your new acquisition.
Bob
And I got the rear cargo net. It helps when you buy take out food and don't want it shifting around in your trunk.
Thanks. Larry
WBR
Craig
Cobb tuning makes something called the "AccessPort" that will allow you to load more agressive maps into the ECU, giving anywhere from 30HP on up depending on the map used, octane of gas, exhaust tuning, etc. However, these are not approved by Subaru and will certainly void the warranty if detected. The AccessPort allows you to restore the ECU to the factory map if you need to bring it in for service and you are worried about warranty issues.
CRaig
Been a long time since I've visited. Now I've got a couple of questions that bring be back.
My OEM tires have 57K mi on them (01 VDC), and have noticed that handling in the snow we've had so far is obviously worse this year.
So I looked back over several discussions about tires to get an idea of what was recommended. I had several in mind, then went to Tirerack to check them out. I had pretty much settled on Goodyear Assurance triple tread based on the tirerack survey results, then noticed they don't come in H ratings for the size I was looking for (225/60-16). I only saw that tire mentioned once or twice on the subaru discussions also.
The Turanzas were mentioned several times here, but according to the tirerack survey they didn't have as good snow traction.
Who do I believe? I lean towards all of you, of course... Is having an H rating that important?
BTW, I want the best of everything! Good snow traction, good handling on dry & wet pavement, etc. I don't need to go off-road, tho. I want all season, don't want to have to get dedicated snow tires. (but maybe will consider that if you all have enough convincing arguments!)
thanks,
Chistina
Our family has expanded to include 2 large dogs (70# greyhound and 100# borzoi), and 1 cat. (no 2-legged offspring though).
I have a 2001 VDC wagon. We can fit the borzoi in the very back, and the cat & greyhound in the backseat. I need options for hauling luggage on trips (i.e. 6-7 hours). We have access to a hard-shell car-top carrier, or could get a soft carrier. We also discussed adding a hitch, and either using one of those platform-type cargo carriers, or a small (enclosed?) trailer.
What would recommendations/thoughts do you have?
Thanks,
Christina
What is more important to you -- ride/comfort or handling?
Craig
BTW, the speed rating is very important, and I would not drop down unless you carry light payloads and travel at lower speeds. If you are ever on the highway with a full load of passengers, it makes sense to stick with the proper speed rating.
CRaig
I think I'd have to put handling above ride & comfort. We get plenty of snow, and our road doesn't tend to get cleared after a storm. And I generally have to go out no matter what.
I tend to drive faster than 75-80% of the other people on the freeway, btw. I prefer a sportier ride, and drive that way.
Christina
Yokohama Avid V4S
Bridgestone Potenza RE950
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S
Check the TireRack site for more details.
Craig
Bob
If as you say, you want the best of everything, and you live in the snow belt, then I suggest you go for the dedicated winter tires on their own wheels (Bridgestone Blizzaks).
Then get a nice set of Michelin Pilots for the rest of the year. You obviously keep your tires for a good long time (57,000 miles) so by getting two sets of wheels you can extend the life of the eight tires for quite awhile. By having the winter tires on their own wheels the changeover can be done easily. Load them in the trunk, go to the local gas station and for about $25 they will put them on quickly for you.
I agree with you. I've only had two flats in 35 years.
Bob
I have driven the standard 05 OBXT 5-speed and the throws seemed a little long, but quite enjoyable to drive. There was not a car equipped with a shift kit to try. I just wondered if it makes a significant difference. The extra cost is not a problem if it is a marked improvement.
The performance chip option was offered by the dealer. I specifically asked if it voided the warranty, and they said no. It is a $700 option. The dealer said a lot of the cost is for a licensing fee they have to pay to use the chip. I seem to recall they said the maker was an English company, but I could be mistaken.
Thanks for your help.
WBR
I do not agree with Craig's position on tire speed rating. The speed rating is for "continuous speed". My 2.5l 5spd manual Outback maxes out at 5600rpm (in 5th) or 113 mph. That is the "continuous speed" rating of the Assurance Triple Tred "T" rated tire. My advise would be (as others have advised) to buy Blizzak dedicated "studless" ice tires and run them on separate dedicated wheels. For other options, I have resorted to the triple tred and my experience follows. However, unless you live in Europe, I wouldn't worry about the speed rating of tires over 100 mph. You might want to check out the TireRack.com thread on Tires for the Outback. Lotsa people don't like the RE92, and there have been a bunch of new postings (look under "Reviews") of the Goodyear "Assurance Triple Tred". General consensus seems to be they really like it. I have just bought a set even though I had only 4500 miles on my RE92s (Brand new 2.5 Outback wagon bought August 27th). The new tires seem better in every way, including cost, wet, dry and snow or ice handling. I recently drove to Mt. Bachelor, OR for a ski trip, and although there was NOT snow covered roads, there was ice and snow covered parking lots sufficient to give me confidence that the new tires (1500 miles) have much better traction than the Bridgestones. A note, they do better on acceleration and braking traction when done in a straight line, and not as good when turning (in snow), so try to get all of your speed alterations done in a straight line, and then begin your turns from a safe speed. They are an 80,000 mile tire, and on most types of surface, are quieter that the original tires.
so just when I think I have my mind made up...
How are the Blizzaks on dry pavement? Sure, we get snow, but most of the time during the winter I'll be driving on dry (or wet), not snow-covered pavement. Are they going to wear very quickly in those kind of conditions?
My VDC handled really good in snow with the OE Firestones until this year. So I'm thinking an all season tire would be fine.
I was leaning towards the Michelin Pilot A/S, even with it's steep price. (and not getting winter tires). Going back into early 2004 on the posts I saw that some had this tire and really liked it. What I didn't see was how many miles they lasted. Ralph/otis123 was hoping for 30K, but I don't think I found any posts to see how far he actually got. Ralph - are you still out there? Any more feedback?
Thanks for all the info, still working on it!
Christina
I have tried the Legacy GT with both the standard shifter and the STi short throw kit and imagine it's identical in the OBXT. The short throw kit does reduce the throw length by about 1/3 but with it comes added shift effort. I personally didn't like the feel of the short throw because of the increased effort. Also, the short throw lever has less vibration dampening insulation.
The factory short throw kit is a bit pricey too. It's because Subaru replaces not just the shift lever, but the linkage and bushings as well.
Another option is to buy a shift lever replacement from aftermarket tuners like Cobb or Kartboy. Replacement is relatively easy and costs less than $100. I believe the Cobb unit is also has an adjustable shifter height as well. If you want to go one step further, I'm sure these companies will also offer harder shifter bushings to firm up the feel.
Ken
If you've been doing fine with all-seasons on your VDC, I would say continue to stick with all-seasons.
Dedicated winter tires are far superior to all-seasons on snow and ice, but the extra performance comes at a price. Not only do you need to maintain an extra set of tires, but the softer tread compound on winter tires do wear out faster on dry pavement and in warmer weather. Also, you do lose out on handling and cornering capaibilities with dedicated winter tires on dry pavement. The shoulder blocks and sipes that are designed to spread out and stick to snow and ice squirm on dry pavement.
As for speed ratings, I would definetly stay with at least the H-rating of the OE tires. Speed ratings measure the sidewall stiffness of the tire. People often incorrectly state that they can go with a lower rated tire simply because they don't drive at a specific speed. What they do not take into account is that the vehicle manufacturer is relying on a certain sidewall stiffness to maintain the level of handling designed for the vehicle.
Ken
The ice compound does wear fast on dry, you should get about two seasons out of them. After that, they will be down to the normal snow compound, no longer providing you with outstanding ice traction.
Sly
I will probably opt for the Cobb unit with stiffer bushings, that way I can adjust the height and remove it if I don't like it.
WBR
This is a very common misconception about speed ratings. As Ken correctly noted, it's more about sidewall stiffness and construction. So you really should not downgrade the speed rating, especially if you push the vehicle with high speeds or heavy payloads.
From TireRack:
"Speed ratings are based on laboratory tests where the tire is pressed against a large diameter metal drum to reflect its appropriate load, and run at ever increasing speeds (in 6.2 mph steps in 10 minute increments) until the tire's required speed has been met.
It is important to note that speed ratings only apply to tires that have not been damaged, altered, under-inflated or overloaded."
The important thing to realize is that that raw speed ratings apply only when the tire is used under conditions consistent with the lab testing -- a tire pressed against a rotating drum at it's specified load rating, with the proper pressure. I don't know about anyone else, but the real-world driving conditions I encounter put a heck of a lot more stress on my tires than that. Between lousy roads, uneven passengers/loads, seasonal pressure variations, and the kinds of maneuvers I use to keep from getting run over, I know I subject my tires to a more rigorous routine that just simply rolling around. Personally, I will stick with the rating that the car manufacturer determined to be appropriate for the vehicle.
CRaig
You should ask them for more specific details. I have been paying attention to ALL of the engine upgrades coming out for the 05 models, and have not heard of anything like this at all. None of it sounds believable to me!
Craig
If you can get by with less extra capacity, a rooftop carrier is a good alternative. The soft types are remarkably good and reasonably priced -- I have one I got 4 - 5 years ago for about $30 (it's a well-known, common brand - more like $40 -50 these days). The great thing is that it rolls up into about the size of a football for storage, which also makes it easy to throw into the car to take along when we think we might need extra capacity for the trip home. The hard shell types are good, too, but much more expensive, and a pain to store.
My recommendation is to start with a soft top carrier. If it works for you, then your problem is solved. If you need something more, then you are only out a few bucks (and you may end up going back to the soft carrier after you've plunked down bigger bucks for the other options.
Good luck!
--K9Leader
2000 OBW Ltd.
1998 Toyota Sienna
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII
1993 Volvo 940