There are plenty of winter tires with the proper speed rating. In fact, I know of 5-6 with the "V" rating recommended for my 05 Outback.
You're welcome to disagree with me, but when it comes to safety and tire ratings, you're on your own if you start recommending tires that are spec'd below the original equipment tires. Many tire shops won't even let people buy tires with a lower speed rating than OEM.
Finally, note that I have not commented on the TripleTred tires at all. I am sure they are fine tires.
I dunno guys, where I'm from people put snow tires on, and then you get a little sticker on your dash that tells you "120 km/h" in that international speed limit sign way... and then you don't drive over 120 km/h in your 200 km/h Audi A4. And no, we don't have no speed limit there.
Somehow I fail to see this as a problem, no matter what the OEM or summer tires are rated for.
I went on Tire Rack's website and they are recommending Bridgestone Blizzaks WS50's for my '05 OBXT Limited. The tires are 225-60-16's mounted on nice alloy wheels rather than the 225-55-17's on the car now.
I'm quite tempted by the price of $788 plus $45 for shipping but wonder about the downsizing to 16 inch wheels. What's your view?
I think 16" wheels/tires are fine on the Outback, in fact they will probably be better for winter driving (more sidewall height). That tire/wheel size is actually standard on the base 2.5i Outbacks, and it's the same size I had on my 02 Outback. Go for it!
I was cruising the web pricing Subarus Added Security plans for my 04 OB wagon when I came across this. It seems to list the Dealer Cost and Suggested List Price for all the Added Security plans. In a nutshell, it shows dealer cost at 50% of list price. This would be a valuable negotiating tool if it is accurate, but I'm always a little skeptical. Does anyone know if this is legit? Thanks.
That's a great summary sheet of warranty prices! It appears to be legit, as those prices seem close to what my dealer offered me on 7/100/0 plans for my 01 OB and 04 WRX. The 100% markup sounds normal, too, for policies of this sort. There's a TON (!) of room to negotiate on these plans.
You are probably right about the chip as it was a salesman talking. He said they could add the "chip" and redo the exhaust with third-party equipment and it would be under warranty. When I get serious about buying the car, after I sell my 97 4-runner 4X4, I will ask for details in writting.
I agree. The list prices do seem correct. That was the main reason I found it so intriguing when I stumbled across it. Can't imagine the dealers would be thrilled about this on the web. Still, it's their product to sell and they can always say no, but I hope this helps with negotiating.
Just purchased today, from Capital in Pawtucket, RI Outback 2.5i. Hope I have done the right thing. Net cost was 26,000 plus purchased (they have a special on extended warranties) 100,000 mile 0 deductible for $900. Didn't have much time to do much research first, it was kind of a spur of the thing decision. Any comments out there on experiences with this vehicle, gas mileage, etc? I put on a ton of miles (around 35,000 per year) so you will be hearing from me starting next week. All comments welcome! Occking in Seekonk, MA.
I strongly suspect the "under warranty" pertains to the dealer's warranty and has nothing to do with Subaru's factory warranty. If anything, you would most likely void your factory warranty with such an upgrade.
If you are considering a chip upgrade and are willing to take the risks, it might pay to wait a bit longer. Tuners are just starting to offer products for the 05+ models.
I had driven a left over 04 Outback 2.5i was was not very pleased with the pickup. Figured that the 05, with only three more hp would not be much better. That was partially true, the 05 was somewhat better, but nothing like what I have with my 04 Malibu MAXX. Even though only 200 HP that car really moved off the line. The Outback somewhat less. If the turbo, or 6 cylinder didn't require a much more expensive model, and require premium fuel, might have considered one of those. Good thing I didn't drive one of those because if I had I probably would have fallen in love with the acceleration on either & not even considered the 2.5 and may have ended up getting another suv entirely with much better pickup (almost bought a Isuzu Ascender 04 that I would have gotten a great deal on--around 25k for one fully loaded.
As the most knowledgeable individual on this bulletin board I respect your opinion. One question though. You thought I would be safe going with Tirerack's recommended package of Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50's on my OBXT Ltd wagon which currently has V-rated all seasons. Since the WS-50's are Q-rated for speed will I be okay cruising within their 99mph limit?
Are any of you familiar with the Outbacks or Foresters that are sold in Europe? Do they have the same specs as the ones sold in the US and are parts the same for European and US models? Have any of you shipped an OB or Forester overseas?
I doubt I'm the most knowledgeable, but thanks for the kind words! I guess I am not sure about downgrading that many levels of speed rating -- I would defer to the TireRack on this one. As I said before, if you drive fast, have heavy loads, or are not totally meticulous about tire pressure, you are already taking away some of the speed rating of the tire. To me, it would seem like the Q rating gives you even less margin. So I would probably buy some of the V-rated tires. But definitely check with the real experts.
I wish. Occ stands for "old corrugated containers" (cardboard, to those uninformed) That's the business I am in, scrap paper. Picking up the vehicle tomorrow, hope I did the right thing dumping the MAXX.
I think pretty much all Studless Ice & Snow (read ice compound) tires are QR rated. Those tires have very soft compounds and are not meant to be driven at high-speeds, so the understanding is that they are OK for sedate driving in winter conditions.
You can get VR ratings only in Performance snow tires, which do not have ice compounds.
I have owned the Blizzaks before and while they are awesome on ice and snow, they feel very spongy, are noisy, and wear fast. I'm trying out the Michelin X-Ice this year and they seem to offer better handling and noise comfort and about 90% of the Blizzak's ice traction. The jury is still out on wear but they look like they will last longer.
You are too modest. We all know you are the man. Thanks for the advice.
Since Tirerack is recommending the Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50s with the Q-speed rating I'm inclined to go with them.
When you look in the dictionary under "sedate" you see my picture. I'm not going anywhere near 80mph in the winter. Sly concurs with what I'm hearing also. And we all know that Sly don't lie!
So why are you dumping the MAXX?? I had a regular Malibu as a rental a few months back, it it was a pretty lousy car compared to the Subarus and Hondas I am accustomed to. What was your perspective as an owner?
I think the Subaru will definitely be an upgrade for you!
I have been riding a few miles (~1000 miles I guess) with Bridgestone's Turanza's LS-H. On the 23rd of December I drove up to the Philadelphia area in a heavy rain storm. I felt very secure with them, perhaps it was their excellent wet traction. They were purchased from TireRack.com and I had my dealer install them. Still have not had the wheels aligned, I am still talking with Subaru on that. I think they ride smoother then the Firestone Wilderness tires that came with my 01 Outback LTD wagon, the co-pilot (wife) does not notice any difference. The other tire in the my short buy list was the Potenza RE950, they were not readily available at TireRack. I hope to in the next couple of days, to see if the new tires have affected my gas mileage. All in all they seem great!
After looking around for winter snow tires, I found few instock. I was set for a long trip to Mt. Tremblant for skiing so i ended up with a set of Nokian WR tires. My stock Bridgestones had worn out at 48000km, and rather than get two sets of tires, $$$, I got the Nokians which have the severe winter rating. They are quiet, have a tenacious grip in snow, slush and wet driving and I really noticed a difference in their braking power. They did really well, and I can use them year round.
However, on Dec. 26th, as we were coming home, a young driver ran a red light, broadsided a Honda SUV, and both of them skidded across 5 lanes and hit us broadside. I craked my head on the plastic strap housing over the door, and otherwise we all survived but abit shaken up.
we were struck just at the windshield pillar, along both doors on the driver's side. I am very concerned about frame damage and whether the car can be safely repaired. The insurance has already said they'd rather repair since the car just turned 2 years old, but I'm concerned a) about the safety of fixing such an impact, and b0 what the lease company will say when I got to turn in a vehicle that's been in an accident. The young driver was charged, and I was not in any way at fault.
If they total the car, I have a clause to get full value for the car, but that won't cover a new Legacy...
is there a forum for helping out with advice for crashes? with Subarus?
I'm really sorry to hear about your accident and am glad that you are okay.
Several years ago, my wife was in a bad car accident with our leased vehicle. She was fine, but the car (a Toyota Camry) clearly had frame and suspension damage. The insurance company decided to repair instead of totaling the vehicle. The body shop that took on the repairs mentioned to me in hindsight that the car probably should have been totalled given the extent of the damage.
There was no problem at all when I returned the car, however. I simply called the leasing company and arranged a drop off. No questions asked. However, we had very low milage and the car was well within the annual milage agreement.
I'm not sure if mine was a typical case so you might want to check the terms and conditions around the lease. Also, I don't know how you might be able to influence the adjuster's opinion on whether the vehicle is to be totalled or not.
I had an accident where I was sideswiped in my wife's leased Honda Accord a few years ago. We were able to turn it in at the end of the lease with no problems.
FWIW, my leased 2004 Subie had frame damage from an accident that after all was said and done probably should have resulted in totalling the car. The amount paid for the repair was 80% of the initial cost of the car. I had the same concern as you, and inquired of the leasing company. They told me that as long as the repair was done by a reputable shop, with documentation of the work involved, that it would not be an issue at lease turn-in. Actually, this is one of the somewhat hidden benefits of leasing. The assumed depreciation for the damage is the problem of the leasing company, not the owner. Imagine trying to sell or trade a vehicle that has had that much work done to it, regardless of who did the repair work. Car dealers would have a GREAT excuse to offer little on trade, and most private buyers would look elsewhere. When I return the car, that's no longer my concern.
As far as safety, I've driven the car for just over a year from the accident, and it drives just as well as the day it was bought. I used a highly reputable body collision shop, who I'd used for my wifes car also, and am quite confident in the quality of the repair. They had the latest equipment for frame work, and worked specifically to Subaru specs and requirements. It took quite a while to do the work (6 weeks or so, counting the holidays), but I still love the car.
Glad you were just shaken up and not seriously injured. That Subaru reputation for safety was clearly put to the test again.
Thanks for your kind words. We were all very lucky. The guy in the Honda was the one who got the worst of it:hit on both sides and punched in the face and chest by the airbag. HIs car is definitely totalled.
I spoke to the body shop manager today (he is the Subaru repair center for the region) and he said it didn't damage the unibody and he thinks the suspension is ok. He says it can be repaired with no worry about alignment and such, and says it will look like new. I'll hear what the adjuster says in a day or so. That's a relief.
Your points about the lease car going back and not having to worry about my trying to sell it are very well taken. I guess I'll be turning it in. I've got two years to go yet, so I hope it is like new.
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm very glad that the car was able to take a side impact like that. It does say a lot about the quality of the car. Though a side airbag might have kept me from getting bonked on the head...but then again, I might have gotten hit in the face by the airbag, too. I hope I don't have to find out again.
In my opinion, it doesn't make sense to go with a tire (like the Blizzak) that is clearly designed for snow/ice use if you are in an area that sees very little of this type of weather. Yes, you will see marked traction improvements when/if such conditions occur, but unless you have them mounted on dedicated rims and only mount them on the vehicle when these conditions occur, you will likely wear off their ice benefits on dry pavement long before there is ever ice. If you lived in interior or southcentral Alaska or another area that has snow/ice on the road at least (if not far more than) 50% of the time between October 15 and April 15, a dedicated snow tire makes sense. If not, don't waste your money wearing out a tire that isn't providing you any benefit other than a misplaced notion of peace of mind.
Subarus handle with tenacity in any conditions with nothing more than all-seasons. Drive with common sense and within the capability of you and your Subaru, and you'll not have problems while saving some hard-earned $$$. I have yet to buy winter tires for my '96, and even this morning after a night of rain on our constantly icy roads followed by 4 inches of heavy wet snow early this morning, I held 50-60 all the way in to work (that's on 55 mph roads, no luxury highways up here!) with my old Goodyear Allegras without problems and I honestly don't think I was pushing the capabilities of me or the car. In the worst of conditions, I'll sometimes have to slow down to about 40 on these same roads, but that's in conditions that preclude some driver/vehicle combos from even being able to navigate the roads.
Do what you think is the best decision for you, but don't take advice as scripture; consider the real benefit as well. I think you'll find a good ice-rated all-season will be a better bang for your buck.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
My wife and I took one long trip (2500 miles / 48 hours each way) with our two dogs (each 60#) and we set the car up like this: 7 cu ft soft roof carrier (Yakima, ~$100), rear door-mounted bike rack for two bikes (~$35), and folded down the rear seats for the dogs. We put a full-size cooler behind the driver seat (on top of the rear seat back) with beverages and other chilled food items, and put all of our dry/non chilled food items directly behind the driver's seat on the floor for easy access by the passenger while driving. We also came up with a rather ingenious (and cheap!) way of dividing the pets from the front seat area: We took 6 sections of a wire cube rack (you know those ones you can buy that are about 14" square and connect with the plastic 8-way pieces?), and zipper-tied them together into a 2(tall)x3(wide) sheet. Then, we took small bungie ties and connected this wire sheet to the overhead passenger handles above the back windows and to the plastic seatings on top of the rear seat backs on the bottom. Viola! It was a flawless way to keep the pups at bay and was easily removable.
Pros: The dogs had plenty of room, the cargo was easily accessible, and the food was well within reach.
Cons: Cargo door couldn't open, passenger seat could only recline about 25%, and beverages were only accessible when stopped.
My recommendation:
Get the soft cargo bag if most of your cargo will fit, fold the seats down to give your pets maximum space unless the Borzoi must be separated from the Greyhound, and use a cargo net to secure any additional cargo that won't fit on top or that you prefer to keep inside the car. Secure the cargo toward the front of the space, keeping the space near the rear door open. DO NOT do anything that will preclude you from easily opening the cargo door. We had to let our dogs in an out through the rear passenger side door, and it worked, but made a mess out of the passenger seat (due to mud, etc, but we were on the Alcan) and made it difficult for us to access the area. Weight over the rear of the vehicle also makes the ride worse, the steering slushier, and cuts down on mileage.
Good luck, and take your time! ;-D
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Whew.... -41 today at my house. Take your pick: Fahrenheit or Celsius! Bitter cold, but I am very thankful that there is no wind because at least you can stay warm with still air. However, the car feels -41 ambient.... felt like a horse and buggy this morning. The tires freeze with one side "squatted" and so the ride is a bit bumpy for the first 1/4 mile or so. I hope I broke 12 mpg on the way to work today, but I won't hold my breath! With 154 miles on the trip meter and the gauge showing about 1/8 of a tank, I've probably used nearly 10 gallons since the last fill up.
Here's to hoping the rest of you stay warm (and safe)!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I remember times close to that when I went to school in Potsdam, NY during the '70's. We would get a two week blast of -35' F in mid January. Many of the carbureted cars of the day would be stone cold dead in the dorm lot during that period. And the nylon belted tires thumped something awful for miles.
Gotta tell you - I don't miss those days very much!
If you are still interested in tire suggestions, consider the Dunlop Wintersport M2. They are H rated, and placed very high on the Consumer Reports winter tire test a few years ago. I have them on both my '02 OBW and '02 Honda Ody in size 225/60-HR16. My friend put them on his Forester, but had to go up one size as they were not available in 215 (?) at the time.
As Craig stated, speed rating is very much about tire construction and how it stands up to load and temps, as much as about raw speed. An article in Consumers and something I saw in a tire trade publication talked about proposed US Govt standards concerning cord body resistance to delamination at high temperatures. Underinflated or overloaded tires heat up fast, and higher speed rated tires shed that heat and hold together better. Both articles suggested that if these standards are adopted, many of the grades below H would cease to exist, as Q/T/S tires simply break down too easily when driven hard.
Something to think about when replacing tires. While the ride might not be as cushy, it is far better to go up a grade than down....
The ride is not so much fun as it is.... well, to be quite frank, COLD! Even with the heater cranking full out, it probably doesn't break about 30, maybe 40 degrees in the cab. One thing is for sure though, it hasn't been as cold, nor for as long, these past 4 years as it once did not too long ago.
I drove my '69 Chevy exclusively through one (and ONLY ONE!) winter up here during 99/00, and we had a two week stint of sub -50 weather over New Year's. I tell you, THAT WAS COLD!! The truck would start down to -52, but then it was having none of it. That was with an oil pan heater, circulating block heater, and battery pad. The next summer we bought the Subaru. ;-D
The heated seats were great the first couple of winters, but now the upholstery is wearing out enough that you get your [non-permissible content removed] burnt in the driver's seat if you turn the heater on.
No squeaks or rattles. The car feels like a coffin at these temps because nothing makes noise and the air itself feels somehow heavy.
Craziest part of the drive this morning: I saw a jogger. I thought this lady was a diehard when she was out during our -20+ temps, but now I think she must be a little crazy.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
As you are freezing, we've been sweltering with 38C/ 100F here in Melbourne yesterday and still 95 at 10:00pm. One of those nights where we ended up in the pool at midnight as the night was too hot to sleep.
I'm trying to organize replacement of my 99 Outback and looking at another one or possibly a Forester. However, to get a Forester with a Sunroof, you have to either take an XS (mid range) in silver or go to the XT. Not sure I need that much power.
I'd take these temperatures over +100F any day. My Subaru would probably take exception to that statement, but then again it is the one having to do most of the work on the road. :-D
Maybe you should just consider with what you are most willing to live: silver or extra power (+ extra expense!). Of course, a little extra power does come in handy once in a while.... I'm not sure why you'd want the sunroof though; sounds to me like you are getting plenty of sun without it!
-Wes-
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I also have the Dunlop Wintersport M2's on my '02 Bean and they are great! They are not the ultimate ice tire, but they are a very competent and comfortable winter performer. They also do well on dry pavement - being in Massachusetts, we only have about 10-20 days of true "winter" driving on most roads. These tires stay on the car four months (Dec-March) and are only slightly noisier and worse on gas consumption (about 1-2 mpg less).
I'm 'lurcking' from the Subaru Crew: 2005 Legacy/Outback board, and was wondering if you might be able to point me to the warranty PDF file you reference here. I've been putting off getting an extended factory warranty on account of the price (just got married and bought a house--yikes), and the fact my dealer (with whom I've been very satisfied with overall) seems very rigid on the prices he's quoted me.
Any 'ammunition' I can go back with would be most helpful.
Have the Wintersport M3 on my '05 VDC wagon. So far, great. They actually seem quieter and more stable than the original Potenzas. Some sloppy weather lately and they were great.
I think I downloaded it from the Forester Forum here on Edmunds (scroll back a few pages for the link)... or maybe it was here in the 05 Legacy forum, I can't remember. If you don't see it, drop one of us a line and we can email it.
Comments
Krzys
You're welcome to disagree with me, but when it comes to safety and tire ratings, you're on your own if you start recommending tires that are spec'd below the original equipment tires. Many tire shops won't even let people buy tires with a lower speed rating than OEM.
Finally, note that I have not commented on the TripleTred tires at all. I am sure they are fine tires.
Craig
Somehow I fail to see this as a problem, no matter what the OEM or summer tires are rated for.
It's not a religion...
-Mathias
I went on Tire Rack's website and they are recommending Bridgestone Blizzaks WS50's for my '05 OBXT Limited. The tires are 225-60-16's mounted on nice alloy wheels rather than the 225-55-17's on the car now.
I'm quite tempted by the price of $788 plus $45 for shipping but wonder about the downsizing to 16 inch wheels. What's your view?
Bob
Long Island
Craig
http://content.subarunet.com/snet/business/Subaru_Added_Security/- sas_pricing_list.htm
Brian
You are probably right about the chip as it was a salesman talking. He said they could add the "chip" and redo the exhaust with third-party equipment and it would be under warranty. When I get serious about buying the car, after I sell my 97 4-runner 4X4, I will ask for details in writting.
WBR
I agree. The list prices do seem correct. That was the main reason I found it so intriguing when I stumbled across it. Can't imagine the dealers would be thrilled about this on the web. Still, it's their product to sell and they can always say no, but I hope this helps with negotiating.
Joe
Bob
If you are considering a chip upgrade and are willing to take the risks, it might pay to wait a bit longer. Tuners are just starting to offer products for the 05+ models.
Ken
Mark
That price of $900 for an extended warranty sounds great to me. My gas mileage with an OBXT has been 15mpg in town and 25-26mpg on the road.
Does OCC in your name indicate National Bank Examiner (Office of Comptroller of the Currency)?
Bob
Long Island
As the most knowledgeable individual on this bulletin board I respect your opinion. One question though. You thought I would be safe going with Tirerack's recommended package of Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50's on my OBXT Ltd wagon which currently has V-rated all seasons. Since the WS-50's are Q-rated for speed will I be okay cruising within their 99mph limit?
Thanks,
Bob
Craig
You can get VR ratings only in Performance snow tires, which do not have ice compounds.
I have owned the Blizzaks before and while they are awesome on ice and snow, they feel very spongy, are noisy, and wear fast. I'm trying out the Michelin X-Ice this year and they seem to offer better handling and noise comfort and about 90% of the Blizzak's ice traction. The jury is still out on wear but they look like they will last longer.
Sly
You are too modest. We all know you are the man. Thanks for the advice.
Since Tirerack is recommending the Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50s with the Q-speed rating I'm inclined to go with them.
When you look in the dictionary under "sedate" you see my picture. I'm not going anywhere near 80mph in the winter. Sly concurs with what I'm hearing also. And we all know that Sly don't lie!
Thanks gentlemen,
Bob
Sly
I think the Subaru will definitely be an upgrade for you!
CRaig
Now if it'd just snow a bit...
-Brian
Bob
-juice
After looking around for winter snow tires, I found few instock. I was set for a long trip to Mt. Tremblant for skiing so i ended up with a set of Nokian WR tires. My stock Bridgestones had worn out at 48000km, and rather than get two sets of tires, $$$, I got the Nokians which have the severe winter rating. They are quiet, have a tenacious grip in snow, slush and wet driving and I really noticed a difference in their braking power. They did really well, and I can use them year round.
However, on Dec. 26th, as we were coming home, a young driver ran a red light, broadsided a Honda SUV, and both of them skidded across 5 lanes and hit us broadside. I craked my head on the plastic strap housing over the door, and otherwise we all survived but abit shaken up.
we were struck just at the windshield pillar, along both doors on the driver's side. I am very concerned about frame damage and whether the car can be safely repaired. The insurance has already said they'd rather repair since the car just turned 2 years old, but I'm concerned a) about the safety of fixing such an impact, and b0 what the lease company will say when I got to turn in a vehicle that's been in an accident. The young driver was charged, and I was not in any way at fault.
If they total the car, I have a clause to get full value for the car, but that won't cover a new Legacy...
is there a forum for helping out with advice for crashes? with Subarus?
regards,
and Happy New Year everyone.
cdndriver
Craig
Several years ago, my wife was in a bad car accident with our leased vehicle. She was fine, but the car (a Toyota Camry) clearly had frame and suspension damage. The insurance company decided to repair instead of totaling the vehicle. The body shop that took on the repairs mentioned to me in hindsight that the car probably should have been totalled given the extent of the damage.
There was no problem at all when I returned the car, however. I simply called the leasing company and arranged a drop off. No questions asked. However, we had very low milage and the car was well within the annual milage agreement.
I'm not sure if mine was a typical case so you might want to check the terms and conditions around the lease. Also, I don't know how you might be able to influence the adjuster's opinion on whether the vehicle is to be totalled or not.
Ken
Mark
FWIW, my leased 2004 Subie had frame damage from an accident that after all was said and done probably should have resulted in totalling the car. The amount paid for the repair was 80% of the initial cost of the car. I had the same concern as you, and inquired of the leasing company. They told me that as long as the repair was done by a reputable shop, with documentation of the work involved, that it would not be an issue at lease turn-in. Actually, this is one of the somewhat hidden benefits of leasing. The assumed depreciation for the damage is the problem of the leasing company, not the owner. Imagine trying to sell or trade a vehicle that has had that much work done to it, regardless of who did the repair work. Car dealers would have a GREAT excuse to offer little on trade, and most private buyers would look elsewhere. When I return the car, that's no longer my concern.
As far as safety, I've driven the car for just over a year from the accident, and it drives just as well as the day it was bought. I used a highly reputable body collision shop, who I'd used for my wifes car also, and am quite confident in the quality of the repair. They had the latest equipment for frame work, and worked specifically to Subaru specs and requirements. It took quite a while to do the work (6 weeks or so, counting the holidays), but I still love the car.
Glad you were just shaken up and not seriously injured. That Subaru reputation for safety was clearly put to the test again.
Good luck.
-Dan-
Thanks for your kind words. We were all very lucky. The guy in the Honda was the one who got the worst of it:hit on both sides and punched in the face and chest by the airbag. HIs car is definitely totalled.
I spoke to the body shop manager today (he is the Subaru repair center for the region) and he said it didn't damage the unibody and he thinks the suspension is ok. He says it can be repaired with no worry about alignment and such, and says it will look like new. I'll hear what the adjuster says in a day or so. That's a relief.
Your points about the lease car going back and not having to worry about my trying to sell it are very well taken. I guess I'll be turning it in. I've got two years to go yet, so I hope it is like new.
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm very glad that the car was able to take a side impact like that. It does say a lot about the quality of the car. Though a side airbag might have kept me from getting bonked on the head...but then again, I might have gotten hit in the face by the airbag, too. I hope I don't have to find out again.
regards,
cdndriver
Subarus handle with tenacity in any conditions with nothing more than all-seasons. Drive with common sense and within the capability of you and your Subaru, and you'll not have problems while saving some hard-earned $$$. I have yet to buy winter tires for my '96, and even this morning after a night of rain on our constantly icy roads followed by 4 inches of heavy wet snow early this morning, I held 50-60 all the way in to work (that's on 55 mph roads, no luxury highways up here!) with my old Goodyear Allegras without problems and I honestly don't think I was pushing the capabilities of me or the car. In the worst of conditions, I'll sometimes have to slow down to about 40 on these same roads, but that's in conditions that preclude some driver/vehicle combos from even being able to navigate the roads.
Do what you think is the best decision for you, but don't take advice as scripture; consider the real benefit as well. I think you'll find a good ice-rated all-season will be a better bang for your buck.
Pros: The dogs had plenty of room, the cargo was easily accessible, and the food was well within reach.
Cons: Cargo door couldn't open, passenger seat could only recline about 25%, and beverages were only accessible when stopped.
My recommendation:
Get the soft cargo bag if most of your cargo will fit, fold the seats down to give your pets maximum space unless the Borzoi must be separated from the Greyhound, and use a cargo net to secure any additional cargo that won't fit on top or that you prefer to keep inside the car. Secure the cargo toward the front of the space, keeping the space near the rear door open. DO NOT do anything that will preclude you from easily opening the cargo door. We had to let our dogs in an out through the rear passenger side door, and it worked, but made a mess out of the passenger seat (due to mud, etc, but we were on the Alcan) and made it difficult for us to access the area. Weight over the rear of the vehicle also makes the ride worse, the steering slushier, and cuts down on mileage.
Good luck, and take your time! ;-D
Here's to hoping the rest of you stay warm (and safe)!
Craig
Gotta tell you - I don't miss those days very much!
Steve
As Craig stated, speed rating is very much about tire construction and how it stands up to load and temps, as much as about raw speed. An article in Consumers and something I saw in a tire trade publication talked about proposed US Govt standards concerning cord body resistance to delamination at high temperatures. Underinflated or overloaded tires heat up fast, and higher speed rated tires shed that heat and hold together better. Both articles suggested that if these standards are adopted, many of the grades below H would cease to exist, as Q/T/S tires simply break down too easily when driven hard.
Something to think about when replacing tires. While the ride might not be as cushy, it is far better to go up a grade than down....
Steve
I drove my '69 Chevy exclusively through one (and ONLY ONE!) winter up here during 99/00, and we had a two week stint of sub -50 weather over New Year's. I tell you, THAT WAS COLD!! The truck would start down to -52, but then it was having none of it. That was with an oil pan heater, circulating block heater, and battery pad. The next summer we bought the Subaru. ;-D
The heated seats were great the first couple of winters, but now the upholstery is wearing out enough that you get your [non-permissible content removed] burnt in the driver's seat if you turn the heater on.
No squeaks or rattles. The car feels like a coffin at these temps because nothing makes noise and the air itself feels somehow heavy.
Craziest part of the drive this morning: I saw a jogger. I thought this lady was a diehard when she was out during our -20+ temps, but now I think she must be a little crazy.
As you are freezing, we've been sweltering with 38C/ 100F here in Melbourne yesterday and still 95 at 10:00pm. One of those nights where we ended up in the pool at midnight as the night was too hot to sleep.
I'm trying to organize replacement of my 99 Outback and looking at another one or possibly a Forester. However, to get a Forester with a Sunroof, you have to either take an XS (mid range) in silver or go to the XT. Not sure I need that much power.
Cheers
Graham
I'd take these temperatures over +100F any day. My Subaru would probably take exception to that statement, but then again it is the one having to do most of the work on the road. :-D
Maybe you should just consider with what you are most willing to live: silver or extra power (+ extra expense!). Of course, a little extra power does come in handy once in a while.... I'm not sure why you'd want the sunroof though; sounds to me like you are getting plenty of sun without it!
-Wes-
Matt
I'm 'lurcking' from the Subaru Crew: 2005 Legacy/Outback board, and was wondering if you might be able to point me to the warranty PDF file you reference here. I've been putting off getting an extended factory warranty on account of the price (just got married and bought a house--yikes), and the fact my dealer (with whom I've been very satisfied with overall) seems very rigid on the prices he's quoted me.
Any 'ammunition' I can go back with would be most helpful.
Thanks much!
Tim G.
'05 OBXTL-5MT
7300 miles and counting
Peace.
Brian