Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Comments
Krzys
You're welcome to disagree with me, but when it comes to safety and tire ratings, you're on your own if you start recommending tires that are spec'd below the original equipment tires. Many tire shops won't even let people buy tires with a lower speed rating than OEM.
Finally, note that I have not commented on the TripleTred tires at all. I am sure they are fine tires.
Craig
Somehow I fail to see this as a problem, no matter what the OEM or summer tires are rated for.
It's not a religion...
-Mathias
I went on Tire Rack's website and they are recommending Bridgestone Blizzaks WS50's for my '05 OBXT Limited. The tires are 225-60-16's mounted on nice alloy wheels rather than the 225-55-17's on the car now.
I'm quite tempted by the price of $788 plus $45 for shipping but wonder about the downsizing to 16 inch wheels. What's your view?
Bob
Long Island
Craig
http://content.subarunet.com/snet/business/Subaru_Added_Security/- sas_pricing_list.htm
Brian
You are probably right about the chip as it was a salesman talking. He said they could add the "chip" and redo the exhaust with third-party equipment and it would be under warranty. When I get serious about buying the car, after I sell my 97 4-runner 4X4, I will ask for details in writting.
WBR
I agree. The list prices do seem correct. That was the main reason I found it so intriguing when I stumbled across it. Can't imagine the dealers would be thrilled about this on the web. Still, it's their product to sell and they can always say no, but I hope this helps with negotiating.
Joe
Bob
If you are considering a chip upgrade and are willing to take the risks, it might pay to wait a bit longer. Tuners are just starting to offer products for the 05+ models.
Ken
Mark
That price of $900 for an extended warranty sounds great to me. My gas mileage with an OBXT has been 15mpg in town and 25-26mpg on the road.
Does OCC in your name indicate National Bank Examiner (Office of Comptroller of the Currency)?
Bob
Long Island
As the most knowledgeable individual on this bulletin board I respect your opinion. One question though. You thought I would be safe going with Tirerack's recommended package of Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50's on my OBXT Ltd wagon which currently has V-rated all seasons. Since the WS-50's are Q-rated for speed will I be okay cruising within their 99mph limit?
Thanks,
Bob
Craig
You can get VR ratings only in Performance snow tires, which do not have ice compounds.
I have owned the Blizzaks before and while they are awesome on ice and snow, they feel very spongy, are noisy, and wear fast. I'm trying out the Michelin X-Ice this year and they seem to offer better handling and noise comfort and about 90% of the Blizzak's ice traction. The jury is still out on wear but they look like they will last longer.
Sly
You are too modest. We all know you are the man. Thanks for the advice.
Since Tirerack is recommending the Bridgestone Blizzaks WS-50s with the Q-speed rating I'm inclined to go with them.
When you look in the dictionary under "sedate" you see my picture. I'm not going anywhere near 80mph in the winter. Sly concurs with what I'm hearing also. And we all know that Sly don't lie!
Thanks gentlemen,
Bob
Sly
I think the Subaru will definitely be an upgrade for you!
CRaig
Now if it'd just snow a bit...
-Brian
Bob
-juice
After looking around for winter snow tires, I found few instock. I was set for a long trip to Mt. Tremblant for skiing so i ended up with a set of Nokian WR tires. My stock Bridgestones had worn out at 48000km, and rather than get two sets of tires, $$$, I got the Nokians which have the severe winter rating. They are quiet, have a tenacious grip in snow, slush and wet driving and I really noticed a difference in their braking power. They did really well, and I can use them year round.
However, on Dec. 26th, as we were coming home, a young driver ran a red light, broadsided a Honda SUV, and both of them skidded across 5 lanes and hit us broadside. I craked my head on the plastic strap housing over the door, and otherwise we all survived but abit shaken up.
we were struck just at the windshield pillar, along both doors on the driver's side. I am very concerned about frame damage and whether the car can be safely repaired. The insurance has already said they'd rather repair since the car just turned 2 years old, but I'm concerned a) about the safety of fixing such an impact, and b0 what the lease company will say when I got to turn in a vehicle that's been in an accident. The young driver was charged, and I was not in any way at fault.
If they total the car, I have a clause to get full value for the car, but that won't cover a new Legacy...
is there a forum for helping out with advice for crashes? with Subarus?
regards,
and Happy New Year everyone.
cdndriver
Craig
Several years ago, my wife was in a bad car accident with our leased vehicle. She was fine, but the car (a Toyota Camry) clearly had frame and suspension damage. The insurance company decided to repair instead of totaling the vehicle. The body shop that took on the repairs mentioned to me in hindsight that the car probably should have been totalled given the extent of the damage.
There was no problem at all when I returned the car, however. I simply called the leasing company and arranged a drop off. No questions asked. However, we had very low milage and the car was well within the annual milage agreement.
I'm not sure if mine was a typical case so you might want to check the terms and conditions around the lease. Also, I don't know how you might be able to influence the adjuster's opinion on whether the vehicle is to be totalled or not.
Ken
Mark
FWIW, my leased 2004 Subie had frame damage from an accident that after all was said and done probably should have resulted in totalling the car. The amount paid for the repair was 80% of the initial cost of the car. I had the same concern as you, and inquired of the leasing company. They told me that as long as the repair was done by a reputable shop, with documentation of the work involved, that it would not be an issue at lease turn-in. Actually, this is one of the somewhat hidden benefits of leasing. The assumed depreciation for the damage is the problem of the leasing company, not the owner. Imagine trying to sell or trade a vehicle that has had that much work done to it, regardless of who did the repair work. Car dealers would have a GREAT excuse to offer little on trade, and most private buyers would look elsewhere. When I return the car, that's no longer my concern.
As far as safety, I've driven the car for just over a year from the accident, and it drives just as well as the day it was bought. I used a highly reputable body collision shop, who I'd used for my wifes car also, and am quite confident in the quality of the repair. They had the latest equipment for frame work, and worked specifically to Subaru specs and requirements. It took quite a while to do the work (6 weeks or so, counting the holidays), but I still love the car.
Glad you were just shaken up and not seriously injured. That Subaru reputation for safety was clearly put to the test again.
Good luck.
-Dan-
Thanks for your kind words. We were all very lucky. The guy in the Honda was the one who got the worst of it:hit on both sides and punched in the face and chest by the airbag. HIs car is definitely totalled.
I spoke to the body shop manager today (he is the Subaru repair center for the region) and he said it didn't damage the unibody and he thinks the suspension is ok. He says it can be repaired with no worry about alignment and such, and says it will look like new. I'll hear what the adjuster says in a day or so. That's a relief.
Your points about the lease car going back and not having to worry about my trying to sell it are very well taken. I guess I'll be turning it in. I've got two years to go yet, so I hope it is like new.
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm very glad that the car was able to take a side impact like that. It does say a lot about the quality of the car. Though a side airbag might have kept me from getting bonked on the head...but then again, I might have gotten hit in the face by the airbag, too. I hope I don't have to find out again.
regards,
cdndriver
Subarus handle with tenacity in any conditions with nothing more than all-seasons. Drive with common sense and within the capability of you and your Subaru, and you'll not have problems while saving some hard-earned $$$. I have yet to buy winter tires for my '96, and even this morning after a night of rain on our constantly icy roads followed by 4 inches of heavy wet snow early this morning, I held 50-60 all the way in to work (that's on 55 mph roads, no luxury highways up here!) with my old Goodyear Allegras without problems and I honestly don't think I was pushing the capabilities of me or the car. In the worst of conditions, I'll sometimes have to slow down to about 40 on these same roads, but that's in conditions that preclude some driver/vehicle combos from even being able to navigate the roads.
Do what you think is the best decision for you, but don't take advice as scripture; consider the real benefit as well. I think you'll find a good ice-rated all-season will be a better bang for your buck.
Pros: The dogs had plenty of room, the cargo was easily accessible, and the food was well within reach.
Cons: Cargo door couldn't open, passenger seat could only recline about 25%, and beverages were only accessible when stopped.
My recommendation:
Get the soft cargo bag if most of your cargo will fit, fold the seats down to give your pets maximum space unless the Borzoi must be separated from the Greyhound, and use a cargo net to secure any additional cargo that won't fit on top or that you prefer to keep inside the car. Secure the cargo toward the front of the space, keeping the space near the rear door open. DO NOT do anything that will preclude you from easily opening the cargo door. We had to let our dogs in an out through the rear passenger side door, and it worked, but made a mess out of the passenger seat (due to mud, etc, but we were on the Alcan) and made it difficult for us to access the area. Weight over the rear of the vehicle also makes the ride worse, the steering slushier, and cuts down on mileage.
Good luck, and take your time! ;-D
Here's to hoping the rest of you stay warm (and safe)!
Craig
Gotta tell you - I don't miss those days very much!
Steve
As Craig stated, speed rating is very much about tire construction and how it stands up to load and temps, as much as about raw speed. An article in Consumers and something I saw in a tire trade publication talked about proposed US Govt standards concerning cord body resistance to delamination at high temperatures. Underinflated or overloaded tires heat up fast, and higher speed rated tires shed that heat and hold together better. Both articles suggested that if these standards are adopted, many of the grades below H would cease to exist, as Q/T/S tires simply break down too easily when driven hard.
Something to think about when replacing tires. While the ride might not be as cushy, it is far better to go up a grade than down....
Steve
I drove my '69 Chevy exclusively through one (and ONLY ONE!) winter up here during 99/00, and we had a two week stint of sub -50 weather over New Year's. I tell you, THAT WAS COLD!! The truck would start down to -52, but then it was having none of it. That was with an oil pan heater, circulating block heater, and battery pad. The next summer we bought the Subaru. ;-D
The heated seats were great the first couple of winters, but now the upholstery is wearing out enough that you get your [non-permissible content removed] burnt in the driver's seat if you turn the heater on.
No squeaks or rattles. The car feels like a coffin at these temps because nothing makes noise and the air itself feels somehow heavy.
Craziest part of the drive this morning: I saw a jogger. I thought this lady was a diehard when she was out during our -20+ temps, but now I think she must be a little crazy.
As you are freezing, we've been sweltering with 38C/ 100F here in Melbourne yesterday and still 95 at 10:00pm. One of those nights where we ended up in the pool at midnight as the night was too hot to sleep.
I'm trying to organize replacement of my 99 Outback and looking at another one or possibly a Forester. However, to get a Forester with a Sunroof, you have to either take an XS (mid range) in silver or go to the XT. Not sure I need that much power.
Cheers
Graham
I'd take these temperatures over +100F any day. My Subaru would probably take exception to that statement, but then again it is the one having to do most of the work on the road. :-D
Maybe you should just consider with what you are most willing to live: silver or extra power (+ extra expense!). Of course, a little extra power does come in handy once in a while.... I'm not sure why you'd want the sunroof though; sounds to me like you are getting plenty of sun without it!
-Wes-
Matt
I'm 'lurcking' from the Subaru Crew: 2005 Legacy/Outback board, and was wondering if you might be able to point me to the warranty PDF file you reference here. I've been putting off getting an extended factory warranty on account of the price (just got married and bought a house--yikes), and the fact my dealer (with whom I've been very satisfied with overall) seems very rigid on the prices he's quoted me.
Any 'ammunition' I can go back with would be most helpful.
Thanks much!
Tim G.
'05 OBXTL-5MT
7300 miles and counting
Peace.
Brian