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My trips are short, frequent driving in the city, because of this type of driving is synthetic better than "dino" oil?
Thank you
-mike
If you read the owner's manual, "Severe" usage, such as short trips as yours constitutes a shorter drain interval than shown in the maintenance book. If you are draining your oil at intervals less than 5000 miles, the cost-benefit of a synthetic will be much less than going the standard 7500 or greater intervals.
Ken
DaveM
-juice
Not known. According to the database of failures that was being kept, most of them croaked at 55K+. There are probably a miniscule # of 05's that have turned that.
Security System
Audio subwoofer
Cabin air filter
Admittedly, the thought of so much dash dismantling, with the cursing that inevitably comes along with broken fasteners, gouged plastic, etc., held me back. Finally, the good weather and the ability to at least start the work in the parking lot during lunch moved me to action.
Cabin air filter - Thanks to previous posts about doing things in a slightly different order from the SOA sheet, plus the warning about hidden screws, helped to make this easier. Still, do it when the plastic is warm, as it requires a lot of pulling and bending that would probably result in cracks were it cold outside. But frankly, it might have been a waste. The resistor network (presumably for the fan speeds) protrudes into the same space. This creates such a large bypass region, that I question how effective the whole setup will really be at trapping airborne contaminates.
Subwoofer - This carries a whole different sheet of instructions, requiring the removal of the shift & center console, radio & heater assembly, etc. I had a thought, and it worked out great. Why not combine this with the air filter change? With the glove box and kick panel removed, you have a good view into the center stack. I unscrewed one relay mount (single nut) to give myself some extra space, and carefully slid my hand into the void. Out came the original connector on the radio, and in went the new wiring harness! Snaked the line under the ash tray and around the shifter and out under the seat without removing another single item. Once I figured out how to approach it, the worst part of the job became a 5 minute supplemental operation.
Now I have to see read the security system sheet and see if I can use this same approach to the relay mount....
Steve
The old orig eqpt. Potenza's had about 27000 and were down to 5/32 or a little less. In snow and wet they were squirrelly. I'll probably never get to collect on a tread wear warranty as I replace long before the 2/32 wear out indicators. It isn't worth it to me to run the tires down to the point where the car doesn't handle safely in rain or snow.
Another Sam's Club ended up installing them but that's another long story. Apparently that speed rating requirement was only one Sam's store's policy.
I can probably still get it connected to the control module from the side panel, but if it is not well secured, the shock sensor portion of the system will probably not respond well. Still, I guess 75% of a loaf is better than none....
Steve
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Steve
-juice
On the Subwoofer - I'm still tinkering with my stereo Bass control and the subwoofer controls and I think that I've come across a good balance. The Bass setting has been backed down to 3 (from 5 which is the max), and I have the High Cut set at 2 o'clock and Gain at 11-12 o'clock. This allows for nice fill-in Bass at normal volumes with better low response at higher volumes.
Originally, I had the Gain up too high which tended to drown out the sound from the regular speakers.
Anyway, tell us what you think of the sound now.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
On the sound balance, I have both pots on the sub at 12 o'clock, and the bass control on the head unit down to 0 from 2 before. But I agree, it works great for some CD's, then sounds too boomy on some. But I have to admit, the smile is still there 3 days later...
I refined my bracket for the security module mount earlier this evening, and put some of the hardware together with a drop of locktite. It will sit 90' from the intended direction, but hopefully the shock transducer is omnidirectional and will not care, as long as it is well coupled to the body structure and can 'hear' glass break, or a tow hook attach.
Steve
Mike k
I got it running last night. I found that the module connector routes into the wiring harness which runs out the drivers side. There is a connector on that side that hooks into a retainer, which takes up much of the slack. Once I freed that, I was able to get enough slack to move the big connector to where I needed it.
Everything seems to work (parking lights flash, etc., alarm goes off if a door is opened), but the shock sensor isn't (yet). Even after slamming the hood, no response. I just must not be coupled to the support rigidly enough. But with my setup, I can get to the adjusting pot, so will try tweeking it over the next few days to see if I can get it to work.
Something else interesting. The starter relay connection would make a great place for a grafted in switch to make a secret immobilizer!
Steve
Given that most engine wear occurs at start up this one advantage alone swings the pendulum in favour of synthetic for me.
Cheers Pat.
You can all go back to your regularly scheduled programming now.....
Steve
Congratulations on getting it to work!
If I had ANY fear whatsoever that someone would be motivated enough (or unmotivated?) to break into or steal my car..... well, it would be a sad, sad world. :surprise:
I don't know of any disadvantages to syn oil. At least the way I do it, it's cheaper, I use less oil, better for the vehicle, locally grown, great for seals, low, low maintenance because it doesn't break down like dino, or get thick and sluggy and you can buy it from you neighbor, just check amsoil.com for you nearest dealer. No, I'm not one, but I do buy from one. And they do make an oil for those that like to change often (7500) and then their middle grade is a 24,000 mile interval oil, which I believe is their original formula. Another thing about buying for Amsoil, we have them to thank for syn oil. If we had to wait for Mobil or whoever to come out with it, we would still be waiting. They would have introduced it about the time we burned the last drop of dino oil.
It's the only way to go, IMHO. Dave
Hmm, I was with ya til that one. Arguing about Amsoil is like arguing about religion except religious groups have crew-served weapons.
My Dino-lubricated OBW showed no signs of wear on the cylinder bores when it was torn down at 140K miles for pre-emptive head gaskets (based on bubbling and combustion byproducts in the overflow tank). So count your blessings, when they go there is little or no warning. Summer is coming.....
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Synthetics do perform better, but only a UOA will show if it will benefit your engine over your ownership period. Unless you race or have very severe duty applications, regular change intervals using conventional or any kind of synthetic should bear good results.
In my case, I use Mobil 1. It's widely available and it gives me peace of mind for my turbo application.
Ken
Craig
Steve
Yes, it was quite an adventure, but in the end it worked out great. Frankly, I think my method beats the heck out of the SoA procedure. Far less intrusive, reduced chance of breakage, and probably a lot faster to boot.
Steve
However, info on the 2006 is still sketchy. Rumors of a 6MT have come up and disappeared.
There are also no rumors of power increases. The Legacy and OB just were introduced last year so I would be surprised if there were any major changes in 2006. Also, remember Subaru will be focused on pushing sales of their new Tribeca and facelifted Forester as well as updated WRX.
Ken
That sounds pretty loose, but we need more information. With the engine off, are we talking about 1-2" of 'one finger' free movement of the wheel (zero resistance)? If so, I would be looking at the universal coupling on the column located somewhere down near the floor board, or the connection point where the column meets up with the steering rack, or even the pinion gear to rack connection itself. If you are talking inches of wheel travel with resistance before the wheels move, it is probably further down, like steering arm and idler arm ball joints.
Steve
-juice
As far as major changes I can agree but I have seen car companies come out with minor tweaks too engines that increase horsepower here and there, however don't know much about how Subaru works? on the other hand legacy doesn't really need a power increase.. Power increase could equal MPG decrease.
Maybe I did get a hold of a good dealer, still blows me away they have actually tried to talk me out of an 05. Especially when I have heard of no real problems with the 05s??
But, for 2006, the Forester will get 173hp and the early reports for the Saab 9-2x say 175hp. That likely means the whole N/A 2.5l lineup gets a bump. Hope so.
-juice
One last thought - someone on this board had a problem with the steering rack's attachment to the firewall. Rubber isolation bushings that failed, and allowed the rack to move an inch or two with the wheel, IIRC.
Steve
The N.A. 2.5's will receive a "slight" power bump. My money is on 173hp but no one is saying for sure and the option codes don't call out a spec yet.
The 6 speed? Well unless the 500 unit "special" model is a 6 speed, then we are out of luck because none of the current build codes indicate a 6 speed.
A navigation system is a definite option code for 2006 Leg/OBK.
I am looking everyday for more information to trickle out about this 500 unit model, so I will post more when something else comes my way.
well the "Special" car sounds like they are gearing up for a nice summer car!! can't have that so I guess that is counted out..especially if only 500 are going to be made.. that means your going to be paying way more then MSRP and I can't bring myself to do that..!!
anyway thanks for all the info people!
-juice
Subarus don't do great on initial quality , but by 2-3 years they hold up very well to the other brands who slip and start to have major mechanical problems as opposed to little cosmetic things on the initial quality surveys.
JDP is not measuring reliability, if you think about it. The Hummer consumes gasoline EXTREMELY RELIABLY, in fact it does so TOO well, that's why owners complain. LOL
And explain this to me - Hummer improved a lot, though it's not consuming any less fuel? :confuse:
Their measure of Initial Quality includes perhaps too many insignificant items. IMO their Durability study is much more meaningful, and Subaru does better in that one.
-juice
I know I'm probably late to get info, but this forum seemed active...
Have people been happy with this car.
Is paying invoice a good deal (plus the $500 cash back incentive if they give it to me)
I'm on the fence between this new and an used Audi Allroad with low, low miles.
I'm favoring the subie right now based on lower maintenance costs, better milage, great sunroof, practicallity.
Road noise and less sporty and less leg room are the negative for the subaru.
Any other thoughts or assistance you can add would be greatly appreciated...
Cheers,
Wade