Just to confirm what you are saying. Does summer constitute extreme temps? My trips are short, frequent driving in the city, because of this type of driving is synthetic better than "dino" oil?
Synthetic oil have more favorable properties than conventional oil as mentioned. The most notable property is it's longer drain intervals. However, the effect on your engine's well-being is not as evident. Probably, the most relevant factor to keeping your engine running well is sticking to a reasonable oil change interval.
If you read the owner's manual, "Severe" usage, such as short trips as yours constitutes a shorter drain interval than shown in the maintenance book. If you are draining your oil at intervals less than 5000 miles, the cost-benefit of a synthetic will be much less than going the standard 7500 or greater intervals.
Wondering if anyone has any new information on whether the headgaskets problem has been eliminated in 2.5 L non-turbo engines in the 2005 Subarus?
Not known. According to the database of failures that was being kept, most of them croaked at 55K+. There are probably a miniscule # of 05's that have turned that.
For years I have been storing some stuff that I bought to upgrade my car, never finding the time to dig into them. Among them are: Security System Audio subwoofer Cabin air filter Admittedly, the thought of so much dash dismantling, with the cursing that inevitably comes along with broken fasteners, gouged plastic, etc., held me back. Finally, the good weather and the ability to at least start the work in the parking lot during lunch moved me to action.
Cabin air filter - Thanks to previous posts about doing things in a slightly different order from the SOA sheet, plus the warning about hidden screws, helped to make this easier. Still, do it when the plastic is warm, as it requires a lot of pulling and bending that would probably result in cracks were it cold outside. But frankly, it might have been a waste. The resistor network (presumably for the fan speeds) protrudes into the same space. This creates such a large bypass region, that I question how effective the whole setup will really be at trapping airborne contaminates.
Subwoofer - This carries a whole different sheet of instructions, requiring the removal of the shift & center console, radio & heater assembly, etc. I had a thought, and it worked out great. Why not combine this with the air filter change? With the glove box and kick panel removed, you have a good view into the center stack. I unscrewed one relay mount (single nut) to give myself some extra space, and carefully slid my hand into the void. Out came the original connector on the radio, and in went the new wiring harness! Snaked the line under the ash tray and around the shifter and out under the seat without removing another single item. Once I figured out how to approach it, the worst part of the job became a 5 minute supplemental operation.
Now I have to see read the security system sheet and see if I can use this same approach to the relay mount....
Thanks for the reply. I did buy the Triple Treds. So far we only have 500 miles or so on them. Strangely I found them to be a little noisey until they were broke in with 200-300 miles. They have definitely quieted down now.
The old orig eqpt. Potenza's had about 27000 and were down to 5/32 or a little less. In snow and wet they were squirrelly. I'll probably never get to collect on a tread wear warranty as I replace long before the 2/32 wear out indicators. It isn't worth it to me to run the tires down to the point where the car doesn't handle safely in rain or snow.
Another Sam's Club ended up installing them but that's another long story. Apparently that speed rating requirement was only one Sam's store's policy.
Well, last night I tried using the same 'side door' approach to the security system, but am stymied by insufficient cable length on the big 18 pin connector. The harness is extremely stiff and unyielding. Frankly, I just don't see how it could ever reach up to the OEM mounting spot on the bracket you mount to the side of the radio. Did anybody who did this according to the proper instructions struggle with this?
I can probably still get it connected to the control module from the side panel, but if it is not well secured, the shock sensor portion of the system will probably not respond well. Still, I guess 75% of a loaf is better than none....
Last night (after the crew chat and some office work), I moved a lighting control relay about 3" (two predrilled holes on a support brace) up to make room for the security option main module. I made a custom bracket to rigidly mount it, and secured enough slack in the harness to make it all fit. Tonight it gets installed and tested....
On the Subwoofer - I'm still tinkering with my stereo Bass control and the subwoofer controls and I think that I've come across a good balance. The Bass setting has been backed down to 3 (from 5 which is the max), and I have the High Cut set at 2 o'clock and Gain at 11-12 o'clock. This allows for nice fill-in Bass at normal volumes with better low response at higher volumes.
Originally, I had the Gain up too high which tended to drown out the sound from the regular speakers.
Hahahaha.... too true. But it is because of knowledgable folks like Steve, Colin, Craig, yourself, etc., that keep us coming back, so my comment was only partly facetious.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Hey, no apology required! I had a good laugh from your comments as well. I feel like I am re-engineering the backside of my dashboard, and I am taking you guys along for the ride. Move this, make room for that, add something new. Fun, but somewhat scary at the same time.
On the sound balance, I have both pots on the sub at 12 o'clock, and the bass control on the head unit down to 0 from 2 before. But I agree, it works great for some CD's, then sounds too boomy on some. But I have to admit, the smile is still there 3 days later...
I refined my bracket for the security module mount earlier this evening, and put some of the hardware together with a drop of locktite. It will sit 90' from the intended direction, but hopefully the shock transducer is omnidirectional and will not care, as long as it is well coupled to the body structure and can 'hear' glass break, or a tow hook attach.
I'm interested in the security install I had to wiggle and pull the pin conn up also . I finally was able to get enough room to plug it in . I was wondering if you got it installed and if it works according to the directions . My works fine except my parking lights do not flash when arming and disarming .Does your lights flash on your upgrade.
I got it running last night. I found that the module connector routes into the wiring harness which runs out the drivers side. There is a connector on that side that hooks into a retainer, which takes up much of the slack. Once I freed that, I was able to get enough slack to move the big connector to where I needed it.
Everything seems to work (parking lights flash, etc., alarm goes off if a door is opened), but the shock sensor isn't (yet). Even after slamming the hood, no response. I just must not be coupled to the support rigidly enough. But with my setup, I can get to the adjusting pot, so will try tweeking it over the next few days to see if I can get it to work.
Something else interesting. The starter relay connection would make a great place for a grafted in switch to make a secret immobilizer!
Ken I only have to look at my oil pressure gauge at start up, particularly in winter to see an immediate advantage to synthetic over dino. I have instant oil pressure with synthetic as opposed to dino taking some time before pressure shows on the gauge.
Given that most engine wear occurs at start up this one advantage alone swings the pendulum in favour of synthetic for me.
After about a half hour of fiddling, I got the sensitivity setting just right. The pickup is a touch deaf in the new location, but by upping the gain on the 'hearing aid', it will now honk a warning if I slap the windshield, etc. So I am happy with the total outcome of my experiment. Figure that I will drive it for a day or two to make sure, then put the glove box back into place.
You can all go back to your regularly scheduled programming now.....
If I had ANY fear whatsoever that someone would be motivated enough (or unmotivated?) to break into or steal my car..... well, it would be a sad, sad world. :surprise:
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I've used Amsoil's top oil, "2000", 0-30wt. in my last 2 Sub's (and cheap syn in my lawn tractor). Here is the short and long of it. For one thing, it does cost quite a bit more, but if you go with the 36,000 mile intervals (changing filters as suggested) it is actually cheaper, and better for the environment for that matter, because it doesn't evaporate out and get burned, like dino, so I go through about 1/5th the oil (or less). My Sub's always used about 1 qt. per 2,000 miles with dino and I use less than 1 qt. per 10,000 miles with syn oil, even with all the filter changes at about 1/2 qt. per change right there (3,000-12,500, depending on whose filter I use). So that makes up for the cost right there, even at $8 per quart, and a lot less time under the car!! My lawn tractor had to be topped off before each use with dino and now that I use syn I don't have to top it off at all. Since syn doesn't evaporate much at all, or have impurities like para fines etc., it doesn't clog up your breather hoses and PVC, which is a real problem with dino. The engine doesn't generate nearly as much heat, so I believe that increases gasket life, with no gasket leaks after 138000 miles on my GT. Another thing is that engines lubed with syn show virtually no wear when torn down for inspection. We don't have to buy it from the arabs and it's made in the USA. I could go on and on, but that is the short version. I'm a believer, in case you couldn't tell and I'll be using it on my '05 2.5i as soon as I get some miles on it, probably 10,000. Give a new motor plenty of time to wear in and my experience (this is Subaru #6 for us) that Sub's take a while to break in really well, probably well past 10000, but to me the other bennies outweigh waiting till 100,000 miles, when I would consider one well worn in.
I don't know of any disadvantages to syn oil. At least the way I do it, it's cheaper, I use less oil, better for the vehicle, locally grown, great for seals, low, low maintenance because it doesn't break down like dino, or get thick and sluggy and you can buy it from you neighbor, just check amsoil.com for you nearest dealer. No, I'm not one, but I do buy from one. And they do make an oil for those that like to change often (7500) and then their middle grade is a 24,000 mile interval oil, which I believe is their original formula. Another thing about buying for Amsoil, we have them to thank for syn oil. If we had to wait for Mobil or whoever to come out with it, we would still be waiting. They would have introduced it about the time we burned the last drop of dino oil.
If we had to wait for Mobil or whoever to come out with it, we would still be waiting.
Hmm, I was with ya til that one. Arguing about Amsoil is like arguing about religion except religious groups have crew-served weapons.
My Dino-lubricated OBW showed no signs of wear on the cylinder bores when it was torn down at 140K miles for pre-emptive head gaskets (based on bubbling and combustion byproducts in the overflow tank). So count your blessings, when they go there is little or no warning. Summer is coming.....
Based on the used oil analyses that are reported at bobistheoilguy.com, the general consensus is that Subaru engines are well engineered (well, maybe except for that HG issue) and wear very well regardless of the type of oil.
Synthetics do perform better, but only a UOA will show if it will benefit your engine over your ownership period. Unless you race or have very severe duty applications, regular change intervals using conventional or any kind of synthetic should bear good results.
In my case, I use Mobil 1. It's widely available and it gives me peace of mind for my turbo application.
Enjoyed reading your saga. Reminded me about the time I installed an alarm in my car during college. For some reason, the "chirp" of the alarm when I locked the doors was enough to set off the motion sensor, which then triggered another chirp, and so on..... endless cycle of chirps and flashes. Took me a while to realize what was going on (my troubleshooting skills were poor back then in the innocence of youth). No manner of adjusting the sensitivity on the motion sensor made a difference -- I have a feeling the chirp frequency must have excited a characteristic mode of the sensor. I eventually had to mount the chirp-siren on a stack of o-rings to isolate it from the car body!
I am sure that these spoilers have some effect, but the questions is how much at normal highway speeds. Lets say that at 60mph, it adds 50lbs of downforce to the tail. Will that have any significance on how well the rear wheels remain planted? Honestly, I doubt very much.... So consider it to be mostly looks, and a small aid to functionality.
Yes, it was quite an adventure, but in the end it worked out great. Frankly, I think my method beats the heck out of the SoA procedure. Far less intrusive, reduced chance of breakage, and probably a lot faster to boot.
So I heard from a dealer that the 06 Legacys are going to have a 6 speed manual.. now from the start the dealer has told me to wait till 2006, although that is what I have planned to do from the onset I didn't tell him that..?? Now every other dealer I have ever dealt with has always tried to get me to buy right away!? is there something for 2006 that is really going to make him money or have I run into a good one? AND what about that 6 speed manual?? also heard power increase from the dealer?? is this something anybody else has heard?
How much play (movement ) should there be in the steering wheel of my '96 OBW when the engine is turned off. It is approx.between 1"-2" now and I am wondering if this is too much;is the steering wheel too loose. If so what could be causing this, and how serious a situation is it? Thanks
It could be that you've run into an honest dealer that knows a happy customer is a good customer.
However, info on the 2006 is still sketchy. Rumors of a 6MT have come up and disappeared.
There are also no rumors of power increases. The Legacy and OB just were introduced last year so I would be surprised if there were any major changes in 2006. Also, remember Subaru will be focused on pushing sales of their new Tribeca and facelifted Forester as well as updated WRX.
That sounds pretty loose, but we need more information. With the engine off, are we talking about 1-2" of 'one finger' free movement of the wheel (zero resistance)? If so, I would be looking at the universal coupling on the column located somewhere down near the floor board, or the connection point where the column meets up with the steering rack, or even the pinion gear to rack connection itself. If you are talking inches of wheel travel with resistance before the wheels move, it is probably further down, like steering arm and idler arm ball joints.
Your guess is as good as any. Early on we saw what seemed to be pretty reliable rumors for one, but it's been quiet since then. Now we're hearing about a special Legacy of some sort, but even then we can't determine if it's the Spec B or the Blitzen.
Well my guess is terrible!! .. I have also heard from that same dealer that a Spec B or some special Legacy will be coming (in September), and I am guessing if a 6speed is present it will be in that model. which I am guessing will be some kind of WRX STi for the legacy therefore a bit to impractical and/or out of my price range.
As far as major changes I can agree but I have seen car companies come out with minor tweaks too engines that increase horsepower here and there, however don't know much about how Subaru works? on the other hand legacy doesn't really need a power increase.. Power increase could equal MPG decrease.
Maybe I did get a hold of a good dealer, still blows me away they have actually tried to talk me out of an 05. Especially when I have heard of no real problems with the 05s??
Well, the 2.5l made 165hp from 1997 all the way up to 2004, and it was only bumped to 168hp, a rounding error.
But, for 2006, the Forester will get 173hp and the early reports for the Saab 9-2x say 175hp. That likely means the whole N/A 2.5l lineup gets a bump. Hope so.
Unfortunately, not a clue. Curing loose steering on my old Ford truck was as simple as tightening the retainer bolt that held the splined shaft of the column to the steering box. But a bad rack could be major $$$. Someone has to watch the components while you move the wheel to see where the free play is.
One last thought - someone on this board had a problem with the steering rack's attachment to the firewall. Rubber isolation bushings that failed, and allowed the rack to move an inch or two with the wheel, IIRC.
Yes there is going to be some limited run (500 units) model produced in August. These "special" units will only be available with a two-tone black and red leather trim package. That is the only firm information I still have heard. They haven't even confirmed whether it is sedan only or not.
The N.A. 2.5's will receive a "slight" power bump. My money is on 173hp but no one is saying for sure and the option codes don't call out a spec yet.
The 6 speed? Well unless the 500 unit "special" model is a 6 speed, then we are out of luck because none of the current build codes indicate a 6 speed.
A navigation system is a definite option code for 2006 Leg/OBK.
I am looking everyday for more information to trickle out about this 500 unit model, so I will post more when something else comes my way.
I would like to see some kind of linkage change on that car!! if I had to complain about something it would be the transmission (or the linkage).. I think if they have that short throw shifter available why not make it standard (AT LEAST) or put a 6speed in the car.. I wouldn't complain about that either!
well the "Special" car sounds like they are gearing up for a nice summer car!! can't have that so I guess that is counted out..especially if only 500 are going to be made.. that means your going to be paying way more then MSRP and I can't bring myself to do that..!!
We should see about that much, the Forester will make 173hp and the Saab 9-2x will make 175hp. We've seen those numbers in print so they are pretty reliable.
Has anyone noticed a small, half second ... lag in the accelleration of the '05 LL Bean Outback from standing start? This is not just easing the pedal down, but giving it a good push -- I'm getting a little hesitation before it goes. But then it goes fine, running strong through all other speeds.
I looked at the new ratings from JD Powers available on their website. The Outback does not seem to stack up that well. This seems to run counter to the other ratings I have seen on the Outback regarding quality and fit and finish. Why such a difference?
All these questions will be ironed out soon won't they? Dealerships can start ordering them around mid June right? So I am guessing we will all see what is in the car so we can order the car.. if so desired?
JDPowers has people who ding their car for ridiculous things, eg Hummers owners pan their cars for getting "bad mileage". Subarus don't do great on initial quality , but by 2-3 years they hold up very well to the other brands who slip and start to have major mechanical problems as opposed to little cosmetic things on the initial quality surveys.
And Mini Cooper scored poorly because of a cup holder design, though one that wasn't breaking or anything like that.
JDP is not measuring reliability, if you think about it. The Hummer consumes gasoline EXTREMELY RELIABLY, in fact it does so TOO well, that's why owners complain. LOL
And explain this to me - Hummer improved a lot, though it's not consuming any less fuel? :confuse:
Their measure of Initial Quality includes perhaps too many insignificant items. IMO their Durability study is much more meaningful, and Subaru does better in that one.
Hummers consume gas!!! Were do they get that with a car shaped like a refrigerator box on wheels!! Most people that can afford a hummer better not complain about gas!
Hi, I'm new to this board and thinking about buying new vdc limited wagon today. I know I'm probably late to get info, but this forum seemed active... Have people been happy with this car. Is paying invoice a good deal (plus the $500 cash back incentive if they give it to me) I'm on the fence between this new and an used Audi Allroad with low, low miles.
I'm favoring the subie right now based on lower maintenance costs, better milage, great sunroof, practicallity. Road noise and less sporty and less leg room are the negative for the subaru. Any other thoughts or assistance you can add would be greatly appreciated... Cheers, Wade
Comments
My trips are short, frequent driving in the city, because of this type of driving is synthetic better than "dino" oil?
Thank you
-mike
If you read the owner's manual, "Severe" usage, such as short trips as yours constitutes a shorter drain interval than shown in the maintenance book. If you are draining your oil at intervals less than 5000 miles, the cost-benefit of a synthetic will be much less than going the standard 7500 or greater intervals.
Ken
DaveM
-juice
Not known. According to the database of failures that was being kept, most of them croaked at 55K+. There are probably a miniscule # of 05's that have turned that.
Security System
Audio subwoofer
Cabin air filter
Admittedly, the thought of so much dash dismantling, with the cursing that inevitably comes along with broken fasteners, gouged plastic, etc., held me back. Finally, the good weather and the ability to at least start the work in the parking lot during lunch moved me to action.
Cabin air filter - Thanks to previous posts about doing things in a slightly different order from the SOA sheet, plus the warning about hidden screws, helped to make this easier. Still, do it when the plastic is warm, as it requires a lot of pulling and bending that would probably result in cracks were it cold outside. But frankly, it might have been a waste. The resistor network (presumably for the fan speeds) protrudes into the same space. This creates such a large bypass region, that I question how effective the whole setup will really be at trapping airborne contaminates.
Subwoofer - This carries a whole different sheet of instructions, requiring the removal of the shift & center console, radio & heater assembly, etc. I had a thought, and it worked out great. Why not combine this with the air filter change? With the glove box and kick panel removed, you have a good view into the center stack. I unscrewed one relay mount (single nut) to give myself some extra space, and carefully slid my hand into the void. Out came the original connector on the radio, and in went the new wiring harness! Snaked the line under the ash tray and around the shifter and out under the seat without removing another single item. Once I figured out how to approach it, the worst part of the job became a 5 minute supplemental operation.
Now I have to see read the security system sheet and see if I can use this same approach to the relay mount....
Steve
The old orig eqpt. Potenza's had about 27000 and were down to 5/32 or a little less. In snow and wet they were squirrelly. I'll probably never get to collect on a tread wear warranty as I replace long before the 2/32 wear out indicators. It isn't worth it to me to run the tires down to the point where the car doesn't handle safely in rain or snow.
Another Sam's Club ended up installing them but that's another long story. Apparently that speed rating requirement was only one Sam's store's policy.
I can probably still get it connected to the control module from the side panel, but if it is not well secured, the shock sensor portion of the system will probably not respond well. Still, I guess 75% of a loaf is better than none....
Steve
PF Flyer
Host
News & Views, Wagons, & Hybrid Vehicles
The Subaru Crew Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Steve
-juice
On the Subwoofer - I'm still tinkering with my stereo Bass control and the subwoofer controls and I think that I've come across a good balance. The Bass setting has been backed down to 3 (from 5 which is the max), and I have the High Cut set at 2 o'clock and Gain at 11-12 o'clock. This allows for nice fill-in Bass at normal volumes with better low response at higher volumes.
Originally, I had the Gain up too high which tended to drown out the sound from the regular speakers.
Anyway, tell us what you think of the sound now.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
On the sound balance, I have both pots on the sub at 12 o'clock, and the bass control on the head unit down to 0 from 2 before. But I agree, it works great for some CD's, then sounds too boomy on some. But I have to admit, the smile is still there 3 days later...
I refined my bracket for the security module mount earlier this evening, and put some of the hardware together with a drop of locktite. It will sit 90' from the intended direction, but hopefully the shock transducer is omnidirectional and will not care, as long as it is well coupled to the body structure and can 'hear' glass break, or a tow hook attach.
Steve
Mike k
I got it running last night. I found that the module connector routes into the wiring harness which runs out the drivers side. There is a connector on that side that hooks into a retainer, which takes up much of the slack. Once I freed that, I was able to get enough slack to move the big connector to where I needed it.
Everything seems to work (parking lights flash, etc., alarm goes off if a door is opened), but the shock sensor isn't (yet). Even after slamming the hood, no response. I just must not be coupled to the support rigidly enough. But with my setup, I can get to the adjusting pot, so will try tweeking it over the next few days to see if I can get it to work.
Something else interesting. The starter relay connection would make a great place for a grafted in switch to make a secret immobilizer!
Steve
Given that most engine wear occurs at start up this one advantage alone swings the pendulum in favour of synthetic for me.
Cheers Pat.
You can all go back to your regularly scheduled programming now.....
Steve
Congratulations on getting it to work!
If I had ANY fear whatsoever that someone would be motivated enough (or unmotivated?) to break into or steal my car..... well, it would be a sad, sad world. :surprise:
I don't know of any disadvantages to syn oil. At least the way I do it, it's cheaper, I use less oil, better for the vehicle, locally grown, great for seals, low, low maintenance because it doesn't break down like dino, or get thick and sluggy and you can buy it from you neighbor, just check amsoil.com for you nearest dealer. No, I'm not one, but I do buy from one. And they do make an oil for those that like to change often (7500) and then their middle grade is a 24,000 mile interval oil, which I believe is their original formula. Another thing about buying for Amsoil, we have them to thank for syn oil. If we had to wait for Mobil or whoever to come out with it, we would still be waiting. They would have introduced it about the time we burned the last drop of dino oil.
It's the only way to go, IMHO. Dave
Hmm, I was with ya til that one. Arguing about Amsoil is like arguing about religion except religious groups have crew-served weapons.
My Dino-lubricated OBW showed no signs of wear on the cylinder bores when it was torn down at 140K miles for pre-emptive head gaskets (based on bubbling and combustion byproducts in the overflow tank). So count your blessings, when they go there is little or no warning. Summer is coming.....
PF Flyer
Host
News & Views, Wagons, & Hybrid Vehicles
The Subaru Crew Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Synthetics do perform better, but only a UOA will show if it will benefit your engine over your ownership period. Unless you race or have very severe duty applications, regular change intervals using conventional or any kind of synthetic should bear good results.
In my case, I use Mobil 1. It's widely available and it gives me peace of mind for my turbo application.
Ken
Craig
Steve
Yes, it was quite an adventure, but in the end it worked out great. Frankly, I think my method beats the heck out of the SoA procedure. Far less intrusive, reduced chance of breakage, and probably a lot faster to boot.
Steve
However, info on the 2006 is still sketchy. Rumors of a 6MT have come up and disappeared.
There are also no rumors of power increases. The Legacy and OB just were introduced last year so I would be surprised if there were any major changes in 2006. Also, remember Subaru will be focused on pushing sales of their new Tribeca and facelifted Forester as well as updated WRX.
Ken
That sounds pretty loose, but we need more information. With the engine off, are we talking about 1-2" of 'one finger' free movement of the wheel (zero resistance)? If so, I would be looking at the universal coupling on the column located somewhere down near the floor board, or the connection point where the column meets up with the steering rack, or even the pinion gear to rack connection itself. If you are talking inches of wheel travel with resistance before the wheels move, it is probably further down, like steering arm and idler arm ball joints.
Steve
-juice
As far as major changes I can agree but I have seen car companies come out with minor tweaks too engines that increase horsepower here and there, however don't know much about how Subaru works? on the other hand legacy doesn't really need a power increase.. Power increase could equal MPG decrease.
Maybe I did get a hold of a good dealer, still blows me away they have actually tried to talk me out of an 05. Especially when I have heard of no real problems with the 05s??
But, for 2006, the Forester will get 173hp and the early reports for the Saab 9-2x say 175hp. That likely means the whole N/A 2.5l lineup gets a bump. Hope so.
-juice
One last thought - someone on this board had a problem with the steering rack's attachment to the firewall. Rubber isolation bushings that failed, and allowed the rack to move an inch or two with the wheel, IIRC.
Steve
The N.A. 2.5's will receive a "slight" power bump. My money is on 173hp but no one is saying for sure and the option codes don't call out a spec yet.
The 6 speed? Well unless the 500 unit "special" model is a 6 speed, then we are out of luck because none of the current build codes indicate a 6 speed.
A navigation system is a definite option code for 2006 Leg/OBK.
I am looking everyday for more information to trickle out about this 500 unit model, so I will post more when something else comes my way.
well the "Special" car sounds like they are gearing up for a nice summer car!! can't have that so I guess that is counted out..especially if only 500 are going to be made.. that means your going to be paying way more then MSRP and I can't bring myself to do that..!!
anyway thanks for all the info people!
-juice
Subarus don't do great on initial quality , but by 2-3 years they hold up very well to the other brands who slip and start to have major mechanical problems as opposed to little cosmetic things on the initial quality surveys.
JDP is not measuring reliability, if you think about it. The Hummer consumes gasoline EXTREMELY RELIABLY, in fact it does so TOO well, that's why owners complain. LOL
And explain this to me - Hummer improved a lot, though it's not consuming any less fuel? :confuse:
Their measure of Initial Quality includes perhaps too many insignificant items. IMO their Durability study is much more meaningful, and Subaru does better in that one.
-juice
I know I'm probably late to get info, but this forum seemed active...
Have people been happy with this car.
Is paying invoice a good deal (plus the $500 cash back incentive if they give it to me)
I'm on the fence between this new and an used Audi Allroad with low, low miles.
I'm favoring the subie right now based on lower maintenance costs, better milage, great sunroof, practicallity.
Road noise and less sporty and less leg room are the negative for the subaru.
Any other thoughts or assistance you can add would be greatly appreciated...
Cheers,
Wade