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Comments
Plus, think of what it would have cost him to rent an Outback for 4 months. $1200 maybe? So he made out, big time.
-juice
The dealer offered to sell the 6 year / 75K warranty with $50 deductible for $100 over his cost as I sat there doing the paperwork at time of delivery.
I suspect most dealer's F&I guys have the same "post card" price list I was shown. Ask for it; make them show you.
By the way, the 6yr/75K/$50 ded cost is just under $600 ( fact) vs. retail in the $1,200 to $1,400 range ( recollection ).
I would not normally buy or recommend one of these products but if you can negotiate it to +/- $700 it is a fair deal,in my opinion, to double the warranty.
Thank you
I have Bridgestone Duellers on my '97 Rodeo, they went 50K miles w/o a problem.
Replaced them with the same, went another 70K w/o a problem
I have Duellers on my 2000Trooper, 26K no problems.
I have Firestone Firehawk GTAs on my XT6, auto-xed it about 1/2 a dozen times on them, and they are still in excellent shape, they are now my winter all-weather tire.
I personally feel it was the Explorers and the underinflation that was the problem.
-mike
But the Wilderness tires on the OB are H-rated street tires, much more performance oriented and heat resistant than the ones on the Explorer. They carry a UTGQ rating of "B" for heat, while the Explorer tires had a "C".
So, no big concern, really.
-juice
Plus they carry an "A" UTGQ rating for heat resistance, and a higher load rating. Remember, the Explorers had problems because people pushed the payload envelope.
They're great in dry conditions, very good in rain, but poor in the snow. So for folks south of the Mason-Dixon line, I'd recommend them.
-juice
I'm near a decision to replace the OE tires on three different cars, my new Bean, with only 1,500 miles,is one of them.
All any OB model needs is a very good H rated all season tire - whether it be the H4 or H6 engine - to show a big improvement in handling.
I've spent some time talking with Tirerack (www. tirerack.com) folks and am convinced that the Dunlop Sport A2 model will soon show up on their website as an outstanding tire choice for the OB. I know they just completed their own full test. It should only be a few more days before all the data is up on the website.
When the data is there, compare it to Dunlop SP Sport 5000 Symmetricals and Yokohama AVS db models. That's what I plan to do.
You can make side by side comparisons, read reviews and owner comments, etc. Then call them and talk to a rep - very knowlegable.
Always depends on what you want in a tire but, for me, the Firestones ( or Bridgestones) gotta go. It is less a safety issue than a performance issue - check out the mileage warranty on the Dunlop A2s as well.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
I decided to get rid of the tires. I replaced them with BF Goodrich Touring T/A H4's. The difference was unreal. It felt like a different car. No more steering wheel shake, and the car tracked straight.
...at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html
I have just put on my temporary tire on the right rear wheel, and need to disable the AWD with the right fuse. However, the owners manual on my 2k Outback Ltd does not specify which type of spare fuse to put in. (note to Patti: the manual is quite confusing on fuses with too many sections and odd stuff like looking under the fuse box covered either not there or not clear)
Will any fuse work or which Amp should I use?
Also, will the spare make it 3 miles to the shop tomorrow?
Thank you, Dan
And yes it will make that 3 miles, just make sure the temp is properly inflated.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/world/africa/newsid_232000/232777.stm
To avoid the pause, I can either:
- rev the engine higher and release the clutch super slowly
- accelerate very very slowly
... not the best options.
Has anyone experienced this?
Will this go away once the car is broken in more?
Any advice will be welcomed!
Thanks.
Good luck and welcome to the club.
Greg
I've been looking at the GT/Outback and have a question: I found the manual to be notchy and imprecise feeling. Has anyone noticed this with their new car and found it to go away in time? I am coming from a 94 Integra which is one of the best shifting front drivers in my opinion and didn't like the feel of the Subes shifter in either trim.
And are there any changes for '02?
Kevin
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
1. Does the bean come in stick?
2. Did anybody experience with child seats and how easy can you get them in and out, does the bean handle a couple child seats and luggage for a camping trip or do you have to use the luggage rack?
3. Can you tint the windows without any problems?
4. Can you put the luggage rack rails like the standard Outback has on the LL bean so you don't scratch the roof's paint?
Thanks
2) No clue, has ISO-FIX attachment points and a whole chapter in the owners manual
3) Yes, but before you take it to the tint place clean your windows like your going to use them for surgery. Don't forget the sunroof/moonroof.
4) No. One of the problems is the Sunroof. Sucks up half the roof space. A good alternative would be one of those roof cargo baskets or some type of roof carrier (but then you loose your sunroof).
Another alterative would be to order the bumper gaurds and then slap them on the roof. The bumper gaurd kit consists of 4 slabs of rubber, each about 1 ft long with adhesive on the bottom. Or you just find some other rubber stirps and good adhesive. Personally I'd go for the cargo basket.
1. No the H6 models are not available in stick.
2. The Outback models have the new child seat attachment system, too bad there are only 2 seats available (Fischer Price and Cosco). The attachment system only works in the outboard positions, to use the center you will be using the vehicle belt. The roof mounted tether positions allow you to attach the tether strap while being able to use the cargo area and cover. Overall it is fairly easy to move the seats around.
3. I have a VDC model, and have tinted the windows. Use a good tint guy, ask them if they cut inside or outside - if they cut inside find someone else. Make sure they notice the defroster like wires in the side window or you will lose your radio antenna. IU would not recommend metallic tints over the radio antenna.
4. The racks should be the same as the Outbacks, never use a cargo bag on the Outbacks ou you may crack the rear sunroof.
I prefered the technology in the VDC control system over the Bean. But you will love either car, good luck.
Keith
-mike
If I lived up north I wouldn't have bothered.
The biggest drawback is reduced night visibility in the back seat due to extra reflectivity. Course I'm always up front...
Speaking of sunroofs this is the first car that I have ever had that has one. Really not sure what to do with it or if it really is very useful. I have tried it under a variety of condtions so far and it mainly stays shut. The moonroof up front is not big enough to get serious flow going and is too far back to look out.
You can open the sunroof in the back but then you at high speed the noise is too much (even partially open). At lo speed the amount of circulation you get does not exceed that aditional heat that comes in (closed w A/C is cooler). During the day the extra light means extra heat. Perhaps at night, roof closed looking up at the stars, but then its too far forward for those sitting in the back seat.
Ideas?
-mike
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Also, this is not really a problem but just to let people know that you should never lock yourself out of a Subaru that is a 2000 model and higher. It took a locksmith almost an hour to get into my car. He tried picking it and using various gadget to pop the lock. He said the internal structure in the door was changed after the 1999 models and makes it very hard to get into the car legally. Also the double weather stripping made it impossible for him to go around the windows. Just to let you know. Keep that spare handy!!
To get a new perspective for how the Soobie stick stacks up, take a test drive in a Saab 9-3....EEK!..:)
bit
Too bad, 11 years later, there are certain build quality of this little car that can not be found on the new OB. I'm speaking about quality of the components, as well as fit and finish. The OB doesn't give me the impression that it going to duplicate the experience I had with the Honda.
-mike
New to the Family. I just installed a Viper 300 alarm. The factory remote still works; So, I have to tote around two remotes. Can the OEM remote be disabled? Has anyone done so? Who did you use that I might contact? Tx. Chucklin
also i have had the car for 4 months love it but the paint in NOT impressive... already have chips along the bottom edge where shoes hit (getting in and out) and its with tennis shoes not hard sole shoes...thanks for any input re tinting
Just to clear up one misconception... not all metalized tint looks reflective. Mine is Madico Onyx and looks like any SUV privacy tint but is a metalized tint. Metalized tint is supposed to hold up better against fading or color shift and often carries a lifetime warranty.
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
I've never driven a Legacy or Outback but was wondering, are their interiors as cheap as the Impreza-based Soobies? Was wondering if the more upscale end of the lineup was any better in that aspect.
The Bean unit seems to be too stupid to do this palying many cuts over and over before getting through the entire CD. This is just ridiculous in my opinion.
Has anyone noticed this and think the same??? Do I have some unique problem - with the CD player that is ??
Taxman, Ridgefield
1. two 1996 OBs-- no rattles
2. 1999 OB -- creaking in dashboard at right corner now and then, especially in cold weather.
3. pair of 2000 OBs -- one did not rattle; the other, mine, had a rattle where the left rear seat latched onto the u-shaped metal piece on the fender well. Several layers of duct tape about the metal piece ended the rattle.
4. wife's VDC -- creaking noise in area of rear sunroof -- plan to have them fix it during next oil change.
Other than that -- all's been tight.
-mike
It was my third Subaru in a row, a 1996 Outback (the first year of the REAL Outback). For the first year I babied it, then the next year I drove up into the High Sierra mountains; while stationary at 7500' it boiled over (because the overflow tank is attached to the engine IN side it was cold water coming out!) I waited for the car to cool down and then I topped it up and continued. As long as the car was moving it performed just fine, as soon as I stopped, the needle would climb.
I took it to the dealer and they proclaimed it a thermostat problem, my thoughts were that the cooling system could not cope with the 2.5L 4 cylinder design (kind of a lot of liters for 4 cylinders).
Over the next 5 years this car chronically overheated whenever I took it high, to such an extent that I had to leave it at home and go in my friends' Camry Sedans, and Acura RS'; most embarrasing.
The dealer never gave me any joy, I even had a factory tech. look at it "drive the crap out of it, it's fine" was his verdict. In March of this year my independent Subaru mechanic (whom I trust) declared the engine wrecked at 75,000 miles.
I traded the car in shortly afterwards, I was so disenchanted with my experience that I purchased another manufacturer's SUV.
1-Do the OB and Legacy handle pretty similarly?
2-On the security system (reg. or opt.) can the honk of the horn be disabled or avoided? (Hate to wake the neighbors!)
3-What type of gas can be used in reg and H6 engine?
4-Can a full sized spare be put in well?
5-Are there map lights in front in the Limited and Bean?
6-What is the button marked "P" on the top of the steering column for?
7-Does the tow bar option come with a wiring harness?
Thank you for your patience and help.
Andy
bit
-Brian