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Comments
Nice thing about the Forester is it has soft springs and a lot of suspension travel, and the suspension articulates nicely to maintain traction. With no tires ever off the ground, I don't get power leaking out.
In snow, I guess it starts by distributing power 50/50 to each axle, and further 25% to each wheel. So it doesn't seem to break traction very often, and when it does it's only temporary. Never once did I feel like I was going to get stuck.
-juice
thanks
jc
When I test drove the car I asked if Subaru had a third, rear-facing seat--the salesman didn't know what I was talking about--and obviously did not grow up with Caprice Classic wagons (or look at Volvos/Audis that have that feature). As the back is quite high off the ground, I imagine that is why Subaru doesn't offer such a seat--or should I have just bought a mini-van ):
O. .
Live Happy,
Chris
I would use 29/29 on the snows. You don't necessarily want high pressure on a snow tire.
-juice
Take a look at my message #1392 where I went into some detail on different carriers for the OB.
I did speak directly w/ Thule and they do NOT certify their box w/ the standard OB racks while Yakima does. The price you where quoted for the Sub Carrier is a good price as all my dealers wanted the full $495 list. The Sub cargo box is made by Swagman in BC and you can check their website for more info on that box.
I have used my Yakima SpaceCadet several times now and am very happy. At 75mph there is very little noise and my gas mileage is only marginally lower.
After being rear ended on the interstate here recently I can say that even if a third row seat was offered, or if I had a mini van with one, I would NEVER put a child back there, just way too close to the tailgate.
Suggestions on what to replace it with? Only got $15k miles on 'em.
Thanks!
If you're intending to replace only the blown tire, then the Dealer's answer is yes. You won't want to ride around with 3 Wilderness and 1 something else (same thread pattern preferred too). Whereas, if you're changing all 4, then your local Sears is right.
Greg
Greg
Actually, cars being a l'il expense is an understatement. I posted a site earlier which listed the WRX for (don't quote me on it, I a l'il senile) ~S$75,000.00 (abt US$50,000). I might be able to afford it if I'm still there, but I probably have to push it all the way home (no money for gas).
Greg
A BMW Series 5 or 7 would be a House with a large yard and a pool...:-)
Thanks in advance.
-andy.
Steve
The (so-call) quote I gave for the WRX I believe includes the registration and (sales)tax. I do not believe the price includes the cost for the permit to purchase a car. I'm understanding that the permit is obtained via biddings which I think will start anywhere from S$10,000 - S$20,000 and offered to the highest bidder, so that could go pretty high. Add that to the price, and if you're not already broke yet, you've got to contend with the cost for Road Tax (I think they still charge by the cc), Parking, Tolls, Gas, Insurance...
I'm glad that I'm here (USA) - I think my Outback in Singapore would be RWD, has two wheels and powered by two cylinders...
I could swear it is coming from inside the door, but the door doesn't rattle at all when I open and close it. I thought it might be the gas door, but if I leave that open, I still hear the rattling noise. I checked everything underneath the car, I couldn't find anything loose. I jacked up all four corners of the car, all the wheels spin quietly and the suspension feels tight. I oiled all the moving parts I could find on the rear gate. Dragging the brakes doesn't make the sound go away either.
The fact that it goes away when I hit the gas or let off the gas scares me. This seems to indicate to me that it is somehow related to the drivetrain. But then, it doesn't sound like a bad bearing or anything, it is a rattling sound, and it is affected by bumps. If I drive on a very smooth road, there is no rattling. But even on a very bumpy road, the sound goes away when I accelerate.
I thought it was maybe the strut, but there's no clunking noise when I go over large bumps. Is it maybe something in the AWD? CV joint or u-joint?
If anyone has any ideas, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Joel
Greg
Valve tapping: I had a rather severe case of valve noise on our 626, and it turned out thinner oil quieted things down nicely. Check the oil level and make sure the oil is clean, and try 10w30 or even 5w20.
-juice
Why do you say the struts are to blame? Were they replaced, and now the new tires are also showing the wear on the inside edges?
Was the rear alignment checked? I'm not savvy on the Outback rear suspension, but if the rear wheels are pointed outwards (toe-ed out?), then they will try to steer away from the center of the car, pulling down the rear suspension, which might cause the camber to go positive. I experienced this on another vehicle, with the steel belts showing just as you describe.
Steve
Thanks.
Patti
33k for tires isn't bad, really. My Desert Duelers only lasted 28k miles. They wore a bit more towards the outside (aggressive cornering?), but I got new rims so now the suspension geometry is entirely different.
-juice
How does the Outback do in "real world" towing situations? I know what it is rated for, but I would like some anecdotes. I would love to be able to use this vehicle as a commuter and a light-duty work vehicle. Has anyone hitched a flat-bed trailer to an outback to haul building supplies, plant material, a small tractor, etc.? How did it work out? Oh yes, if I do go with the Outback, it will be a 4cyl. --- 6 is too pricey for me. Thanks.
I was wondering if anyone knows if subaru has any plans to allow the rear seat backs to recline. I often take friends or family on long trips and this feature would really make a big difference in comfort. I believe the Lexus RX300 has this feature, don't know of others except for minivans.
I borrowed Bob's 700 lb trailer and took 2 trips with 3 yards of wood chips each. I'd estimate it was about 1500 lbs or so (dry wood chips are lighter than mulch):
It's a 5'x8' utility trailer with no brakes, so I was pushing it a little, and my Forester did fine (2.5l phase I, 5 speed manual). Outbacks are heavier, but that would make them more stable, and the Phase II engine has more low end torque. That plus if you have an automatic it's better suited for towing. Braking was fine despite my rear drums. A Forester S or Outback has rear discs that offer better cooling, plus they have bigger rear view mirrors, which I missed.
So from my experience, light-to-medium duty towing is fine, just don't count on towing a 19' boat.
-juice
Bob
The one in the middle is purely cosmetic - it's not weight bearing.
-juice
bit
Ross
Since that is my trailer, and we do have two cats... All I'd have to do is to go to the dump (pun intended) once a year. Sure beats changing the kitty litter weekly. Not sure how the neighbors would feel, however.
Bob
Hadji is a Pomeranian/Dachsund/something else mix, but certaily a dog. He barks, I swear it! :-)
Bob - 3 yards of sand are just $60. Bet you spend a bunch more on kitty litter!
-juice
The dealership said they were aware of the noise and it is not a problem or harming the brakes or the car. Has anyone else experienced the same noises? Or does anybody have any info.
Thanks
The new pads Subaru is using have a higher metallic content so they last longer, but they also develop rust on the surface when parked for long periods (including overnight).
The first time you apply the brakes it basically cleans off this very thin layer of rust, and after that the brakes should operate just fine (and stop squeeking).
My dad's 2001 Outback is the same way, but once they're clean rest assured the braking system is very effective (4 wheel discs, vented in front and bigger for 2001, 4 sensor, 4 channel ABS).
-juice
...at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Now, all these brake noises should not be confused with the wear indicator which makes an anoying scratching sound (like when someone runs thier finger nails down a chalkboard). Those indicators will contact the rotor and make that noise only when the pads are worn. If the car is brand new, that should not be the case.
Hope this helps.
The other possibility on the brake noise is the characteristic clunk or squeal when you go backwards. This is just the pads shifting in the calipers. They are secured with a loosish spring but can move about quarter of an inch meaning that you do hear a noise whn you apply the brakes going backward. You also hear similar noise when you next apply the brakes whn moving forward but you are usually moving faster and pressing harder this time. Try a three point turn first thing in the morning to see what I mean
Cheers
Graham
They never responded to my e-mail requesting information. Apparently, you have to call them to get a response.
The guy I spoke with (Mitch) seemed knowledgable enough (but, of course, my knowledge of tires is simply how to spell 'tire'). He pointed me away from the tires that the web site was seemingly recommending (the Yokohamas I asked about earlier). I ended up ordering some Continentals in the Grand Touring class of tire. He even steered me away from some other tires that the web site listed in that class as they were "really more of a sport performance tire". He did not push me to buy a more expensive tire.
Also, if you are having the tires drop shipped to a shop near you, call the shop first and make sure they still accept tires from tirerack. The first shop that was mentioned to me no longer accepts tires from them (it turns out they only service 911's and do not want anything to do with other cars). However, they are still listed on the web site as accepting tires from tirerack.
Bottom line: Use the web site to get a general idea and to learn about tires. Then, call tirerack and speak with one of their reps. I would do it again.
Anyone recall the 1960/1970 vintage Volvos and the awful squeal their brakes made - you could hear them stopping from a block away?
And take a look at the front wheels of any 1980/1990 Mercedes or BMW with the ornate wheels - talk about brake dust crud!
I had a 1968 Fiat 124 (4-wheel discs, amazingly) that had a rear drum-type assembly as the parking brake. That sucker would invariably freeze in place during the winter - and I'd have to go get a couple buckets of hot water to throw on them to break them loose - then drive the car immediately to dry them out before they re-froze.
And when I lived in Norway in the early 1970s, the parking brake on my 1971 Audi 100LS would invariably freeze/rust hard when I'd leave the thing at the airport for a several-day trip out of town. Then a couple buddies and I would get to rock the thing back and forth until it broke free when I returned.
BTW - never have heard even a peep from my 2000 OB wagon's brakes. It lives outside in Seattle, but is driven regularly, so perhaps corrosion doesn't get much of a chance to form.
Cheers from the PNW, and a happy 4th to all (especially the US folks)!
Ken M.
Hey, Juice - mid 70s and no humidity out here. I have to find an excuse to run the AC.
cptplt: I've heard of redlining the engine but the rear seat? And what the !@#$%&* is a ryoon? (Looks like the dreaded Edmunds spell check struck again).
One of these days I'll make a worthwhile contribution to this list rather than just picking holes in everything.
Goosegog
bit
dab
No power, no lights... hmmm
Check the power cable for breaks, if you could get to the inside, check for breaks there too. When you said fuse, did you meant a fuse in the Player? If not, I think there might be a fuse in the Player.
If everything checks out, then, the Player is probably burnt out. Had a CD Player burnt out on me once and it happened within a week of purchase. Of course its a home system. I know, apple and oranges. But electronically, they're the same. Even CD Players aren't inmune to 'Lemons', but I hope for you it isn't the later.
Every car company sells part product, part service. We all know that Subaru makes a good quality product, but what about Subaru of America's service?
I just discovered that their service is as good if not better than their great quality product. To make a long story short, I have been having clutch problems with my 1998 Legacy GT. It first occurred under warranty, but the repair didn't completely fix the problem, because it came back. Now the car is out of warranty (77K). The district rep looked over the problem and the repair record and we agreed we needed to take off the tranny to see if there was an underlying problem. There was, and Subaru is taking care of most of the cost. No arguments, no hassles, no headaches. WHAT A GREAT COMPANY!! Subaru really does stand behind their product. I am soon to be in need of a second vehicle, believe me, it is going to be a Subaru!!
-- Bill
Patti - can you also confirm the fix and timeframe?
-Zak
Does the cooler draw power or run while the car is turned off and how long might I safely use the cooler before the car battery runs down? What is the experience with the 120 volt AC adapter?
Thanks!