Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I'll make sure that if my windows in our OB ever need adjusting that I'll call you first!

    -Brian
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    wonderful photo documentation. If only professional manual producers did their jobs this well.

    Ross
  • popgunpopgun Member Posts: 25
    It's post like that one that make this board truly great. You do your fellow Subie owners a good favor by shareing your knowledge. Thank you for your fine efforts, mechanical,photographic and writeing skills.

    Doug
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Please do NOT import headlight assemblies from the UK. Remember, they are RHD which means over here, your lights would be shining right into oncoming traffic!

    Thx.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I need to have my hood buffed to get out those scratches my daughter inflicted when she walked on the hood. I can get the tow hook cover painted at that time. Come to think of it, doesn't the Legacy (wagon, sedan, GT) all use the same cover? In that case, it can be of many different colors.

    Craig - outstanding "pictorial". Your a brave person to do that work to your new car. But, I guess the OCD in me would force me to do it too if the window was off that much.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    nowak: you are right, the original Outback was a hit. I brought Subaru sales from 100k per year to 160k per year, with a little help from the Forester.

    I don't think that Subaru wants to stay at this sales level, though. It's pretty hard to survive without spreading the costs more. They'll end up hawking GM clones if they don't achieve sales success on their own, that's my concern.

    Brian: go take another look at Camry and Accord. Material quality has taken a nose-dive in the last 5 years or so. You do not get lit vanity mirrors until you step up to the top models. The headliners are cardboard covered with lint, and the carpets are thinner than they used to be. Goose neck hinges crush cargo in the trunk, and the hoods have cheap prop-rods. I compared them back-to-back, and then a 2nd time, since my wife is cross shopping all of them, and neither Camry or Accord is any better than the Legacy, maybe a little worse. The LL Bean Outback is closer to the ES300 than it is to the Camry.

    The real surprise was the Koreans. The 2002 Sonata and Optima have articulating hinges for the trunk, struts to hold up the hood, padded headliners with cloth, and vanity mirrors. They put Camry and Accord to shame. I mean it. If you haven't seen a Korean car in the past 2 years, you'll have no idea what I'm talking about.

    Build quality, OK, you may have a point.

    Craig: I am proud of you, man! Those are great photos, and instructions too. You even added the little arrows. Subaru ought to hire you, their installation instructions are awful.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    CR now puts the VW Passat at a higher level in terms of quality materials and fit and finish than both the Accord and Camry. I still believe Subaru needs to improve in this area. However, as I said before, Subaru seems to place more resources in the mechanics of their cars than the interior materials. Since the H4/H6 and AWD costs more to manufacture than the drivetrain of the Accords and Camry's, Subaru needs to compromise in other areas to stay competitive. That's fine with me.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The Passat really is nice. Take a close look. It also has the articulating hinges for the trunk, the struts to hold up the hood, much thicker carpets and a nicer headliner too. Even the Jetta has nicer carpeting than the Accord or Camry.

    VWs do well in short-term surveys (JD Power IQ is just 90 days), but still cannot match Subaru (or Honda and Toyota) in long-term reliability. That would be my concern. It's love/hate, people love the nice materials but hate the problems that tend to creep up. So it's risky.

    I like tried-and-true, so I'm with you on that one Greg. It would be nice to have both, though, but you really have to step up to Lexus price levels to get that.

    -juice
  • nowakj66nowakj66 Member Posts: 709
    Jon - I envy you the Subaru Legacy Sedan. I have seen no more than 4 in the past 12 months. I always do a double take when I see them because they are quite unique.

    The H6 Sedan is particularly sweet. AWD 6 cylinder sedan for the price of a 4 banger Audi AWD A4.

    I think the Outback does better as a wagon because the logical Japanese competitors - Honda, Toyota and Mazda have abandoned the midsize wagon market.

    Even without AWD, I think an Accord wagon or Camry Wagon (straight -- not dressed as Sport Utes like Highlander) would cut into the same market as the Legacy and OB Wagons.

    Now that Mazda may come out with its midsize Mazda 6 as a wagon, it will be interesting to see how it effects Subaru wagon sales.

    I think Subaru will be all right -- Honda and Toyota tried a few model years back to sell straight wagons and Subaru served them their heads -- the Subaru wagon just had too much of a head start and Honda and Toyota priced their wagons too high for the content.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I remember that. Also, the Camry wagon was just scary ugly. The Accord wagon was small, and both were indeed pricey.

    The Mazda 6 looks attractive, though, so it could be more of a threat. People are already cross-shopping the Outback Sport vs. the Protoge5.

    The H6 sedan is actually priced the same as an A4 quattro 1.8T auto. But once you add heated seats, metallic paint, and a moonroof to the Audi it's $2 grand more.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Interesting notes about interior quality Juice, I think you nailed it. The quality of Honda interior materials has gone markedly downhill in recent years, and I have a feeling it's because they are trying to stay competetive with everyone else in pricing. But it's a disappointment to me, since the Hondas I owned (up to a 1997 model) always had great interiors.

    I don't know if it's universally true, but the American made Hondas (Accord, Civic) seem to be the worst. It's got nothing do do where they are manufactured, it just seems like those models are getting the most attention with cost cutting. I owned a 93 Civic EX coupe, and it was the last generation of Civic to have cast aluminum suspension parts all around (with double wishbone up front) and the "true" Honda interior quality. Once Honda started trying to compete with the Neon and Focus, they had to cut corners -- stamped steel suspension bits with a very lame design. The interiors are terrible now -- looks like they were designed by Fisher-Price. Even with good quality construction and assembly, the cars look and feel cheap. It's too bad.

    VW definitely has some of the nicest interiors out there, but they are way too overpriced. No matter what VW I have looked at, I always come away in amazement. They want $25K for a GTI hatchback? I don't think so. You would have to want a VW real bad to pay that when you could slide into a WRX or RSX for the same or less money. And what they charge for the Passat wagon is outrageous. I don't get it.

    I think Subaru is in a good position with its quality and pricing. I really think the current Outback interior is on par with the Honda of old. Most of the switches/controls are super silky and tight, and the materials are very good. Not Passat/Audi grade, but still very good. That you can get that level of quality -plus- AWD on a wagon that starts around $23K speaks volumes to Subaru's success. They are doing something right!

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mazda is guilty, too. The current 626 was decontented from its predecessor. Folks are criticizing the Altima's interior, too (nice engine, though). The Galant was actually a step up from those, but it's under too much Chrysler influence if you ask me. Reliability used to be tops, now it's the pits.

    Don't forget the front wish bones on the Civic, RSX, and CR-V.

    Subaru has been slowly adding content without increasing the price, and I like that. The Forester has added power mirrors, intermittent wipers, outside temp gauge, 2nd odometer, and cruise standard since I bought mine. The price is $300 higher 5 model years later, or less than inflation, never mind the extra content.

    VW has had success offering more feature for more money. It's actually worked for them. But Piech hasn't been watching costs, so I bet they're in for a nice hangover in a year or two. Look at all the engines they have, many of them overlapping in power output. And $38k for a Passat (W8 or no, that's a lot of green). The Phaeton will hit the $60s.

    -juice
  • aps5aps5 Member Posts: 43
    It appears that these 2 models are only $1800 difference at the dealer, when dealing near invoice prices. As far a resale value goes, it is smarter to go with the 6 cylinder model? The difference in power did not seem that significant.
    thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The H6 comes in auto only, are you comparing an H4 Ltd automatic?

    The H6 is more relaxed in the way it gets the job done, and you probably will recover a good portion of the extra cost at resale.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    No doubt, the H6 will be better for resale -- it's one of those options that "counts" when you go to estimate the value of a vehicle years later. Otherwise, loaded Ltd and Bean models are similarly equipped.

    If you add the dimming mirror, cabin air filter, and security system upgrade to the Ltd wagon, its invoice is $1866 less than the Bean. However, the Bean comes with free maintenance for the first 3 years 36000 miles, which has some value to it. There are also minor details like the two-tone leather and wood steering wheel that probably add a few bucks. And all those LL Bean Logos are probably worth $3 to $4 a piece too, right? :-)

    To me, the real difference between the cars comes down to the engine -- it's what defines the Bean and makes it distinctive from the Ltd.

    I had a 2000 H4 Outback and recently moved up to a Bean. The difference between the two cars is night and day. If you do a more detailed comparison, I think you will find the H6 to be much quieter and smoother than the H4, and it definitely has a lot more power. You do have to be firm with the throttle, however, or Subaru's econ-minded auto transmission will make both engines seem like wimps (after a while, the transmission logic adjusts to your habits).

    My H4 was a 5-spd, and of course the H6 is auto. Even with the handicap of the auto transmission, the H6 has a lot more pull all the way around. In fact, it has too much pull sometimes, and I am still getting used to it.

    The H6 is definitely worth the extra clams if you ask me.

    Craig
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    The H6 engine makes the Outback a totally different car.

    It took a while to finally push the engine (I like to baby my cars the first few months). Now I love flying down an on ramp and effortlessly merging into the pack. But, like someone mentioned, you need to respect the power and weight (3700lbs.+) of the car or it can over power you...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll admit, $1866 does seem like a lot for an engine. While it does a lot for the car, I wish it were offered as a stand-alone option instead, for maybe $1000.

    Some times an engine upgrade is as little as a $400 upgrade, but that's usually domestics.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I think when you factor everything else in (including all maintenance up to 36000 miles), it's more like $1400 for the engine. And there's a lot more to it than just the engine. H6 models get a bigger cooling system, and I recall reading that the brakes, engine mounts, bracing, and suspension are upgraded too (in order to deal with the extra weight/power). Then there's the exhaust -- the muffler alone is probably worth a few hundred extra bucks, with it's multi-chamber design and electronic control (similar aftermarket mufflers for Corvettes sell for $500 each). So while the H6 itself might not cost a lot over the H4, the "installed" H6 certainly gets more complicated. I can see how that would all drive up costs.

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The maintenance is a nice bonus. Only the luxury makes offer a similar deal, and even then not all of them. I think it's actually worth more than the $400 you estimated. Maybe $600 or so. So the H6 "system" costs maybe $1200. That's still reasonable.

    But I'd still like to see the H6 offered at more accessible prices. $28,520 is the starting MSRP for an H6 sedan. And while that has a moonroof and leather, I bet a lot of folks would prefer to get just the engine without all the frills.

    What about a base Outback wagon $23,420, add only the AWP ($500) and the H6 ($1200), for $25,120? Sounds like a deal, and that's MSRP. By the time you deal on it, you'll pay $23 grand. Now that's a bargain.

    -juice
  • twoplaytwoplay Member Posts: 3
    I need to have my 99 OB automatic transmission overhauled. Can anyone recommend trany parts that I can upgrade (performance parts) during the overhaul?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If you took my old base Outback and added the AWP, H6, and dual moon roofs, keeping the cloth seats and 5-spd transmission, you would have my ideal wagon at $23-25K. I could have done without the leather and other frills on the Bean for sure.

    Craig
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    So your saying that the engine knock was due to ignition problems ,and when they reset the computer it helped .You also mentioned that a heat sheild was making a noise too .Was it like an engine knock noise or just a metal rattling sound . Sorry for so many questions but when I go to my dealer I want to have all the bases covered.I'm still fighting with them on my other noise I get from the front end when I accelerate from a stop . Ohh well I'll just have to keep on them about it . Can't wait I'm going on my 1st long trip in my baby .I'm going to the mountains for a week to go skiing and boarding hope theres alot of snow .
    Thank you in advance
    mike k
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I agree, Craig, and I bet Legacy sales would have increased last year, instead of the small decrease.

    -juice
  • dzndzn Member Posts: 11
    I've been shopping and researching the used market and have two questions.
    1. Edmunds says that from 2000 to 2001 the front rotors and calipers differs. Does anyone feel this change is substantial enough to lean towards the 2001.
    2. Edmunds evaluation of the 2000 vs 2001 says the 2000 is not up to par in terms of quality control (interior rattles). Any comments?

    By the way this board is extremely helpful!!!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The front rotor grew in size by 0.7". Your call.

    Edmunds' sample is so small it can't be considered significant. However, 2000 was the first year model, and the 2001 did get a few improvements.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    It seems like the LSD was optional in 2000 as part of the cold weather package, versus standard equipment on all outbacks in 2001. Bigger brakes are always better, but it wouldn't be enough of a factor to keep from choosing a nice 2000 model. The interior of my boss' 2000 Outback seems to be no better/worse than my 2001, and she's got 60K on her's.

    One thing my service advisor mentioned during my last service (regarding the horrific chattering clutch problem) was that Subaru redesigned the clutch pack in the 01 models to be less prone to chattering in the cold. I can't imagine the 00's being any worse than my 01 in this respect, but his contention is that with the "redesigned" clutch, I should not be expereincing the problems with the clutch that I am. Just something to consider if you are looking at a 5 speed model...
  • nematodenematode Member Posts: 448
    The exact source of the engine knock was never identified. Doing a reset on the ECU seemd to correct the problem. Along the way I also had the injectors cleaned but did not help immediately. I cannot rule out that cleaning the injectors also helped rid the engine knock.

    The knock and metal rattling sound were distinct. As plain as I can put it: one was a classic engine knock sound and the other metal-on-metal rattling. The rattle was being masked by the knocking so I did not hear it unil the knocking stopped. The source of the metal rattling was identified as a loose heat sheild. It was tightened and the problem is gone.
  • heatherbeanheatherbean Member Posts: 82
    I carefully looked at the specs of the GT and the Outback. The only differences are GT has the lower profile tires and the "sport tuned" suspension- which is just stiffer springs (I asked Subaru and that is what they said). The Outback has slightly higher profile tires and one inch blocks to raise it up. Other then that the cars are identical- According to the specs that is. I do not see how they could handle differently. I would drive a GT to find out, but they are rare here and the closest one with a stick is 300 miles away!! I need a direct comparision of 2000 and up model
    Outback to GT.

    I think new tires would help make the Outback handle better. Are the Bridgestone RE950's the best choice for performance plus all weather traction?
    Do I need to move up to 17 inch wheels with a lower profile tire to get the better handling? Or just get the 16" tires for my current wheels?

    I am trying to find that "fun-factor" again since my husband traded-in my OBS for a 2002 L.L. Bean in automatic. Autos are no darn fun, so I drive his 2001 Outback with a stick. Not quite the fun of my Impreza!!!!!!!! But no more Impreza's until my baby is in High School, since it is too tight a squeeze for her and her stroller, etc. So no WRX for me.

    Anyway, if you drove a 2000 and up GT and the 2000 and up Outback I would like to know the difference in feel and fun factor and handling PLEASE, since I can not drive a GT.
    I have the choice of trading in my husband's 2001 Outback for a GT, but not until I know for sure it is a huge difference in sports car fun compared with his car. If so I will order one TODAY.
    Thanks again!
    Heather
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I had a 2000 Outback, and it didn't really have any big rattles. The interior quality was pretty good if you ask me, and on par with the 2002 Outback I have now.

    As I recall, the clutch was redesigned during the 2000 MY to increase force on the pressure plate. I think they made the change for models manufactured during Jan 2000 and later. Not sure if this is the same re-design you are talking about Brian.

    Here's what I remember for changes going from the 2000 to 2001 MY for the base wagons:
    - rear LSD became standard
    - slightly bigger front rotors
    - rear wiper became intermittant
    - roof radio antenna replaced by in-glass antenna
    - lighted vanity mirrors became standard

    That's all I can think of. Some of these changes applied to all Outback wagons, some only to the base model. I never had any problems with the smaller rotors, so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

    Craig
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    That could be true, Craig. I really have no idea -- service techs are known to make up some wild stories to get people out of their face, so who knows what my dealer was talking about. I just nodded my head while he was explaining how my car couldn't possibly be doing the things I said it was doing because it "was a problem for 2000, not 2001." Whatever...my clutch sucks. After 20K miles and no fixes, I'll just keep on motoring and hope the clutch holds on for 4 more years. :)
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    The radio antenna is still on the roof on the base outback as well as the base Legacy.

    Only the limited outback and the GT wagon get the antenna in the glass.

    Oh the Bean and the VDC. also have it in the glass.

    Cheers Pat.
  • mtnshoppermtnshopper Member Posts: 58
    It's been a long time since I've posted to this group. Been very busy. Patti, I don't know if you remember me. I'm Becky in Colorado and I have the 2001 LL Bean from Heuberger Motors that had an intermittent starting problem. It was in the shop all last week. The Service Manager drove it a lot. I think he took it home every night so he could start it in the morning. He said he did not have any problem starting the car all week, but they went ahead and upgraded my ECU for the cold start problem. He instructed me to always depress the gas peddle a third of the way down while turning the key, due to our altitude. I've been following his instructions and the car has been starting ok...until this evening. It sat for 10.5 hours at my office today. It was 18 degrees when I tried to start it. I depressed the gas peddle as instructed, while turning the key, and it wouldn't start, although the ignitions turned over many times. I finally turned the key off for a few moments and tried again. Again, depressing the gas peddle partially, while turning the key. It was still difficult, but finally started....tentatively. It felt and sounded like it was about to stall. I reved (revved?) the engine a couple of times and it started idling normally.

    I left a message for the Service Manager, explaining what happened. We had fairly warm temperatures during the week it was in the shop. 30s to 50s. Now, at 18 degrees, and after the ECU has been upgraded, I'm having trouble again. I was also told that the 6 cylinder models are a little harder to start than the 4 cylinders. (I have a co-worker with an Outback Limited who has never, ever had trouble starting her wagon, no matter the temperature, no matter how long it has been sitting.)

    I really don't think the car is quite right. Do you have any suggestions? And can you confirm that the ECU really was upgraded? Could it be something other than the ECU?

    Thanks, Becky
  • cryan2cryan2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Outback wagon. The mud flaps have always seemed very close to the tires, and the car attracts so much in the way of snow "tumors" that they even impinge on the tire. I'm forever kicking them off. I think the mud flaps have a lot to do with this problem. Does anyone know how to remove them. Neither I nor my dealer could figure out a good way. Thanks.
  • aps5aps5 Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for all the advice. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and I'm hoping for a price around invoice. Does this sound about right? (for LL Bean or the H4 ltd). I also know people who have negotiated for Michelin Tire replacements from the stock tires, for no charge. Anyone know of any stock tire problems?

    Thanks
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Try this: before starting, put the key in and turn the ignition on (so that all the dash lights come on, but don't crank the engine) and listen for the sound of the fuel pump priming. It will be a hum/whir noise from the rear of the car. As soon as the noise stops (maybe 3-5 secs), turn the key to start and crank the engine. It should start right up.

    I have noticed a cold start problem with my Bean, but waiting for the fuel pump to prime always does the trick. The car starts right up.

    I don't know if I agree with what the service manager told you about depressing the gas pedal -- this is likely to cause problems of its own. Try the priming trick, and let us know how it works.

    Craig
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    the advice about depressing the accelerator during cold starts to be rather odd. Craig's suggestion seems right on the money.

    Ross
  • ccampbell4ccampbell4 Member Posts: 60
    Recently I've been noticing a little creaking noise coming from the gear box or front middle of the car when I'm starting off quickly in first gear. It's like if I need to jump into traffic or I just accelerate briskly from a stop it creaks. I have the manual transmission. Has anyone else experienced this?

    By the way, I have the radio antenna in the glass in my base 02 Outback.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Could be a trans mount or bushing? I think I have the same problem on my XT6, although mine is only in the AM/first gear engagement of the day.

    -mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I was always instructed that when starting a fuel injected car that depressing the gas pedal was a no no as this was a sure fire way to flood the engine.

    Ryan there should be no mystery in removing the mudflaps on your outback.

    They are only held on with acouple of screws and plastic clips.

    2 or 3 screws along the edge of the fender one plstic clip further into the wheelwell and one clip underneath up into the underside of the rocker panel.

    Cheers Pat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Becky: you may want to consider a stronger battery. My stock battery only had 260 CCAs, and I replaced it with one that has 535 CCAs. Starting wasn't a problem before, but it does crank up much quicker now. I paid $30, so it may be worth a try.

    Chris: what about a heat gun, to bend them back a little farther from the tire?

    Andrew: invoice is about right in the DC area, at least. The new ones use Bridgestone tires, even though the Firestones never had an actual problem (they were different than the ones on the Explorer), they changed it to avoid any bad press.

    -juice
  • mtnshoppermtnshopper Member Posts: 58
    Thanks, I will try priming the fuel pump tonight. It will sit in my office parking lot for about 10 hours again today and it should be pretty cold tonight. It's only 16 degrees outside now. It was 22 degrees in my garage this morning and it started fine. The service manager has already returned my call this morning and is awaiting instructions from Subaru. He would like to get my car back in while we are having these cold temperatures.

    Becky
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    Hi all,

    In my first dumb move of 2002, yesterday, after our first significant snow of the season, I was enjoying the prowess of my '02 base OB and got a little overconfident. The rear end swung out and clipped a curb. The wheel is scratched, but I'm more worried I could have bent something or thrown it out of alignment. Does anyone know how sensitive the rear alignment is? Should I get it checked?

    Thanks,
    David
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Have you noticed it pulling to either side? Check the gas mileage to see if there might be any extra drag on that wheel, plus tire wear (though it may not show up for a few K miles).

    You may want to touch-up paint the wheel, maybe just with a clearcoat, to keep it from corroding.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I agree with others here that depressing the gas pedal can flood the engine. This could have been your recent starting scenario. Although I don't have the H6, it sounds like the priming trick is worth a shot. It does sound like your service advisor is doing his best so hang in there. Keep us informed and good luck.

    16 degrees - wish we had that here (NY) with some real snow. In my mind winter still hasn't arrived. :-(

    Greg
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    Thanks for the tip on touching up the wheel. I do have some clear coat at home. I was trying to notice this morning if it was pulling, but it so hard to tell on the crater filled roads we have here, plus almost every one is crowned in some way. I'll keep my eye on it. At worst, I'll spring for an alignment. That'll teach me. Too bad, it doesn't even have 2k yet.

    David
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I bought a new 1990 Toyota Camry LE V6 wagon, and it was one of the best cars I ever owned (aside from a tranny issue, but we won't talk about that here). We went back and forth between it and the '90 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon. At the time the Camry was still trim and decent looking, (second generation body: '87-'91) and was simply more car for only slightly more money (opinion....). You could get the Camry wagon sparten or all dolled up, and Toyota sold a ton of them. Obviously lacking was AWD....

    The next generation ('92-96) Camry was a hog, and SW's were only available loaded. Prices soared, buyer ran the other direction. The wagon was discontinued two years later.

    My base '02 OB wagon reminds me, at least in spirit, of the '90 Camry. All the right equipment, but nothing extra (no leather, sunroof, etc.). Acceptable power, good comfort & safety equipment (and AWD) for a decent price (in terms of today's automotive marketplace).

    I hope that Subaru does not lose its way when they redesign the product for '03/'04.

    Steve
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Don't we all overdrive our Subbies at least once. Mine ended up on a 3 foot snowbank. Really embarassing to have to get pulled out.

    Seriously though, if it just scraped don't worry about it, but if you bounced off of the curb I would get it aligned. Better than replacing 4 wheels.
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    It was more of a bounce, and less of a clip, so I'll try for an alignment ASAP. That'll teach me to save that stuff for autocross.

    David
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Steve: Subaru still sells the Legacy L, and with a manual you can find one around here for $19k. That's even after dropping the Brighton model. I doubt the next one will start for a street price of any more than $20 grand.

    -juice
  • mtnshoppermtnshopper Member Posts: 58
    Several months ago, the road on my way to work was covered in mud. It was early in the morning and still dark. The road had actually been closed, but somebody had pushed the barricade off to the side earlier. I hit the mud at 35/40 mph and wasplastered bumper to bumber with the stuff. One of my neighbors even stared at me when I pulled into my driveway. Mud was dropping off the car for months, despite mutiple undercarriage washes. During an oil change, the mechanics chipped big chunks out. But when I hit that mud way too fast, the Bean cruised right on through. Then I ended up taking our secretary to the emergency room, because she did the same thing in her front wheel drive Chevy and lost control of her car, slammed into the curb and hurt herself when her shoulder slammed into the driver's door. Glad I was in the Subaru!
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