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Craig
Brian
Thx - Mike
-juice
While we're talking about things that aren't quite right, the remote entry feature on my '02 OB H4/5-speed, seems to only work when IT wants to. Many times I have to literally walk around the car pressing the 'unlock' button. What fun when loaded down with stuff!
Anyway, has anyone else experienced this with their OB? My other cars with remote entry don't have this problem in the exact same location. I know sometimes electrical towers can interfere with the reception, but this happens in my garage, with the reflective properties of the concrete walls.
Anyone else?
David
My 98 had a mind of its own and alarm would go off at a drop of a hat, took three visits before they got the sensitivity set right!
Strange, but I guess I got used to it and know how to get it work by second nature.
-juice
Replacing the battery did not do anything, turned out there was a crack in the printed circuit board in the remote.
Cheers Pat.
David, try the other remote if you haven't already, and/or try a new battery in the remotes. Those are the easiest things to investigate. It would not be unheard of to get a bad battery.
Craig
2nd Q:often I have to push unlock numerous times or press lock and then press unlock again. I feel it is more likely a case of security codes than range. IIRC the system uses a series of codes for added security (200k of them), which keeps someone from just copying the frequency. (What's the frequency, Keneth?-REM)
-Steve-v
Something under the car whiffs quite a bit when the car is new and the exhaust is hot, but mine disappeared after about 8,000 km. The longevity of that smell might depend on whether you do mostly short or long journeys in the early stages of ownership.
1. That damm brake squeal when backing up after the car has rested. It's louder then ever!
2. Wheel balancing: after a tire rotation, the steering wheel shimmy has appeared again, most noticeable on highway cruising.
I checked out a foreign subaru parts site (UK, I believe) and they had a nice looking chrome front grill. Has anyone brought this grill and if so, is it better then the plastic piece currently on the OBs? Thanks.
Keyless remote range: Believe it or not (and it sounds kind of wacky), try keying the remote button while holding it at your chin with your mouth open. No, this isn't some sort of sick premature April Fool's trick... I read it somewhere & thought it a bit crazy myself until I tried it (in the dark so neighbors wouldn't worry), and it really does extend the range! My wife, ever the skeptic, even concedes the difference, although she insists its a fluke.
Cheers!
Paul
I would like to know who first discovered that the mouth open chin thing worked and how many other things they've tried before finding that is combo worked. Jack
Remote - remote seems to work fine, and yes the range does appear to vary. Interestingly, my Sienna will automatically lock all the doors if you do not open the door within a certain time after unlocking it with the remote. Security reasons, I am sure.
Welcome back Rich.
Steve, Lyn and myself held the first unofficial, East Fishkill Subaru Meet (actually lunch) today. Had a great time as we pondered the cult status of Subarus. I won't admit this in "public", but I think Steve's OB was cleaner than mine. Of course mine is missing a tooth too. We need to track down the other owners in the parking lot - one of which is a new, white RS!
Greg
-juice
I guess I'll mention it to the dealer next time I bring it in. I just don't want them to make some adjustment that will adversly affect the system.
David
Cheers!
Paul
Also I've noticed that the automatic tranny definitely has 80 or 90% front wheel most of the time. Going into corners in the snow will produce the typical front wheel push until the rear end decides to get going. If you don't pay attention and give it a bit too much gas, get ready for the back end to come around....
Of course this was not during normal driving. Just my normal "subaru in the snow driving" with empty roads.
Cheers Pat.
Ross
You are right about the front/rear behavior when it's slippery out. My old manual transmission Outback (50/50 nominal split) did not have the FWD-like understeer tendency that the auto models have, but the tail would get reall happy if I hammered the throttle. My new auto trans Outback is much more docile, but will also get a little tail happy if you push it.
Craig
By the way, I immediately took of the made in Indiana sticker and both back glass AWD stickers, and I think the car looks much better.
I also agree with Juice about undercoating on exhaust making a smell but this smells like a "hot belt". Do Forester owners get the strange smells as well? Maybe the weight difference between Forester and Outback makes a difference in heating up the AWD system? Any thoughts?
I first heard of using your chin to extend the range of car alarm remote back in 1993. The alarm installer gave me the tip after I asked if he knew how to extend the range.
When the car is driven around town, no smell. It occurs after highway speeds of 100 to 120 kph for a period of three hours. A climb up our ski hill at the end of the trip really brings on the smell. It is also much more apparent if the road has been wet, go figure. Anyway, it is still present when driven on a dry road.
My worry is that there is something wrong with a major component of the vehicle which will cause me some problem in the future. There is no obvious oil leak and the new car underspray problem is long gone.
Passengers on my last trip up to the ski hill asked if they should call 911 on their cell phone after I stopped for a red light. It is a hot steamy burning oil smell.
Tom
Greg/Lyn Lunch: See my post in "Meet the Members". Nice time - thanks! You think my car is clean? And I was almost too embarrassed to park it where you could see it. Thought you might tell the others of my neglect!
Burning Smell: Most definitely worse since getting the brake pad 'morning squeal' shims put in. They have a soft adhesive backing that is burning off. Had them installed two weeks ago today. I would say that they cut the sound considerably, but it can still be heard some mornings.
Steve
John
Is it like burnt rubber?
I too and dealer haven't pinpoint what it is - my '98 OB checked out fine, no leak(s) or anything out of order.
City driving is fine, but after some highway or "spirited" driving it is noticeable. In my case, very prominent at the front wheel wells. Nothing at the rear wheels.
-Dave
Cheers Pat.
or do you just make sue it is in N when you park. (and if you left it in first - how far does it lurch down the street before you catch it?)
steve-v
Cheers Pat.
I would like to fix it without removing the bar, but if I have to I will remove it. It is quite loud, mainly since the car is otherwise so quiet.
Any other possible sources for the howl?
Thanks.
Andy
Hope this helps....
You can also 'disturb' the air flow (and reduce the howling) by wrapping something around the bars. I think someone once mentioned that you could wrap it with a bungee or rope in the the pattern much like that on a candy cane.
-Brian
Andy, how can you tell the noise is coming from the rear?
Craig
-juice
Steve
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Minor problems so far....
1. Wind noise (very annoying!)above 40 mph..I hope it's only a window adjustment
2. Car drifts very slightly to the left
3. Slight hesitation at shift points (A/T) especially from standing
(an earlier posting mentioned that sparkplugs from factory should be replaced. If I do this myself, does it affect warranty?
4. Are daytime running lights automatic or can they be turned off?
I am taking the car to the dealer this week
Any comments are appreciated
Alignment is tricky, so I'd leave that up to the dealership.
You will not void the warranty by changing the spark plugs yourself. Just follow the right procedures and keep your receipts.
You can't turn off the DRLs legally because they are considered a safety feature. A simple way around them is to leave your headlights on all the time. They turn off when you remove the key anyway, and will operate on low beams when you drive (with a lit dash, too).
-juice
-juice
My car came without crossbars. Probably scavenged by dealer for a little extra profit.
That hopefully leaves the window adjustment as the answer
I am not sure what you are suggesting for the DRLs
Is this hesitation common or would you suggest a change in plugs...if so what brand?
I would use Bosch platinum plugs, the regular ones. Make sure you have a torque wrench and do not overtighten the plugs. Use an anti-sieze grease so you have an easier time getting them out next time, too. Check the gap on the plugs before you install them, too.
-juice
thanks, Dave in Logan, Utah
-juice
-mike
This is from a computational fluid dynamics simulation (using a computer as a wind tunnel, basically). The black circle would be equivalent to the cross-section of an antenna, wire, rack cross-bar, etc. The colors show levels of velocity, with blue being the slowest and magenta being the fastest.
For those with a fast connection, there is a 3MB Quicktime animation here
Craig
I said again for the 3rd time you only hear when you drive it .So we get in and guess what for once things go my way .He goes wow now I hear it .
He then says it will go away in a couple of seconds because its normal . Well it made the noise the whole time we were out [ about 4 mins].When we got back to the dealer they took my car in for the O&F change . When it was ready they told me that he was going to contact the Dist Rep from SOA about the noise. I told him about the posts I've found about the timing belt tensioner and he said that he had to wait to hear from the dist rep from SOA b/4 he did anything to the car . Patti does this sound right.Also do you know who the rep is for this area and can I contact him myself .I'll keep you posted on what happens .
mike k