Thanks, bird19. Boy, the 2003 doesn't look much different from the 2002, does it? I'll be interested to see the new SE model.
Anyone hear anything about new exterior colors? I loved the bright red that Subaru had a couple of years ago when the new model just came out. Don't know why they got rid of it...
The '03 Legacy wasn't supposed to get a new look - just a refreshening. It's the '04 that will reportedly get a newer look (and a turbo would be nice )
I'm also a bit interested to see what the special edition brings to the L lineup.
Oh, the new 2.5GT wagon sounds nice. Sportshift, VTD and cold-weather package standard? I'll have to go look at one, even if it still uses the 165hp EJ25. This car is crying for 200+hp!
My 2002 Outback Legacy 5-sp has a decent amount of clutch chatter or shuddering for the first 5-6 starts from stop. I started noticing it at about 3k miles, took it to the dealer, they verified the concern and said that the factory knew about the problem but did not have a fix worked out yet. The car has 11k miles on it now, and still chatters when cold. On a recent return visit, the dealer now says this is a normal characteristic of the clutch and no fix will be approved.
I have seen a smattering of clutch related posts on this and other message boards. I was wondering if anyone knows more detail about this problem and potential Subaru remedies.
The problem itself is mostly an annoyance, especially on such a new and otherwise great car. I have not ever experienced such a problem on other manual transmission vehicles I have used. My biggest concern is that this problem will affect the clutch life span. Any advice or further information would be greatly appreciated.
My 01 GT wagon has had a mild amount of clutch chatter forever. 20k miles now and no change. Like you say it can be annoying. Funny how it is so erratic. Some days none, some just once and some days it is the first 4 or so engagements. But that is the way it has been for maybe 17k miles. bit
Bill, My 01 Outback has been the subject of many, many posts here because of it's persistent clutch problem. The car was purchased new in 1/01 and now has 32000 miles on it and the clutch has given me fits since it was new. The shuddering used to only show up when it was cold outside, but now does it all the time, regardless of temperature. It's 106 degrees today, and it shuddered horribly on the way to get lunch, then settled down for the trip back to the office. The problem is amazingly erratic -- after all this time, I still cannot anticipate the problem or reproduce it at the dealer. It's an unfortunate problem for an otherwise fine car, but I will never own another manual transmission car from Subaru because of this. I've been told that Subaru uses an unusually hard clutch disk material which, combined with the 5 driveshafts of the awd, tend to magnify the vibration in the clutch at times. Others have had the problem for over 100K miles and just lived with it. I get the feeling I'll be living with this clutch for quite some time. The only temporary remedy that anyone has been able to suggest is to slip/burn the clutch a bit on takeoff when the shuddering is persistent. After a few high rpm shifts, too, the clutch will usually behave for the rest of the day. I normally upshift the car around 3K or so, and when I'm mad at the clutch I'll wind it up close to redline in 1st and 2nd -- seems to work for me anyway. It's disappointing, though, that a new car has such a prevalent defect that the manufacturer doesn't seem to care about. Email me if you want more details...
I don't get why some cars show absolutely no symptoms. My wife's clutch is smooth as butter. Mine shows minor signs, but it's not nearly as bad as you're describing, even after 4 years of abuse (including some light off roading and towing).
Hmm, looks like the 2003 L gets a single CD, which the wife would have liked. Still, I'm glad I got the 6CD changer, and we'd prefer that anyway.
Lit vanity mirrors, finally. Good move. Our 2002 doesn't have one at all on the passenger side.
Gets keyless, too, which we got, I guess as an option. We disabled the honking horn when you lock and unlock, so that chirp would be better.
The SE looks nice, with the 16" rims and moonroofs, plus the Momo wheel. I guess it kind of bridges the gap, not quite the GT from 2002, but a step up from the L. I guess they want the 2.5 GT to be more distinctive. Those will be sweet.
Those wheels are gonna be hard to clean, but I prefer the look. The grills is nicer too, with less chrome. It actually looks more like the grills on our 2002 L model.
The dealer had this to say about the problem: "Normal operation when cold due to the surface on the flywheel"
If this is normal operation, then why does this behavior not manifest itself on all Subarus with this drivetrain? If I had experienced this "normal" behavior during my test drive, I would not have bought the car.
I have read a few articles concerning the 2003 model year mentioning a new "flexible flywheel". I wonder if this is how Subaru is addressing the clutch chattering. If so, perhaps the newer flywheel could be retrofitted on older models. Just a thought.
Many of you have probably seen this already but there's a well written article about shifting at:
www.spdusa.com go to Other information / Driving tips / Shifting tips.
When you think about it, the clutch really does have to overcome the mass of all 4 wheels and linkages to move a Subie, not just two like most other cars.
Bill, I agree -- if this is "normal" for the car, I would never have raked out $25K for it. I wouldn't expect a Kia or Hyundai to behave this badly. If it's normal, why don't all 'roos do it? Ugh.
Regarding the 03 clutch, I'll look into it...I know Subaru has updated their clutch design a few times over the past few years trying to remedy the problem, but so far they have not figured it out. I don't usually like automatics, but this experience has started to change my mind...
I have a 1998 Legacy Outback with 158,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but what I am having now is the worst. The vehicle gets "stuck" in 1st gear. It will eventually come out by itself but not until it red lines the tack (7,000 rpm). It will also shift into 1st by itself sometimes when I'm driving, (I'm going 30 mph, in 3rd gear, then all of a sudden it decides that it wants to be in 1st gear.... at 30 MPH...). When this happens, I'm not putting any stress on the engine, it can happen on a perfectly straight road (not a hill) and I am just cruising at 30-40 MPH. It happens mostly from a standstill, when it's already in 1st. It doesn't happen all the time, but I can expect it to happen (from a dead stop) at least 30 percent of the time. If I manually shift it from 3rd (Drive) to 2nd when it's "stuck", it will ALWAYS shift out of the stuck 1st gear to 2nd. But I have to wait until the RPM is up to 3,500/4,000 before I shift into 3rd or it will go back into 1st again. I also have the check engine light that comes on sparatically (sp), but the light being on or off does not correspond to the 1st gear problem. I have had the light checked 3 times now and the dealer keeps turning it off and replacing an ECR module that they say was the culprit. Does anyone have any experience with the trans. problem? Any help would be appreciated.
Shame the dealer can't fix that for you. Have you tried an independent transmission shop? They may have the transmission experience to correctly diagnose the problem.
Thanks for your reply ffsteve. I haven't tried an independant Transmission shop yet. I'm hoping that someone here will know exactly what's going on. I'm thinking that the problem is not really the transmission but rather a "switch" or something that "signals" the transmission when to drop down into 1st gear. That maybe this "switch" is bad and all I have to do is to replace it. Wishful thinking I guess.
Non-electronic transmissions depend on a complex network of transission fluid passages and valves that hydraulically signal shift points based on fluid volume or pressure. I'm not positive, but believe that even electronic transmissions (like Subaru) depend on inputs from similar passages as part of the decision-making process. You are right to look for a "switch" determining the shift, but it's more likely to be a result from number of switches or sensors inside the unit.
A single smoking gun would be nice, but I'm thinking that's not likely. Especially after repeated trips to the dealer failed to correct it.
But I've been wrong before... and I've never had the guts (or reason) to open up an automatic transmission. I'd be interested in hearing your results regardless.
What you describe is very similar to problems I had on my '92 Saturn with auto trans. There was a power control module in the transmission that needed replacement. It required tearing down the entire trans in order to repair. It was a costly repair but it did solve the problem. Ron
You could try an ECU reset, to see if that makes a difference. Just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes on a cold engine. Reconnect, start her up and let it idle until warm.
But at 158k you've doubled the average life span of most auto trannies.
I've always wondered about the need to do the reset on a cold engine. Is that for the convenience (and safety) of the operator, or is it necesary to properly restart/reset the ECU?
I just had my '01 LL Bean in for routine oil change & brake inspection. The dealer called me & said the injection system needed cleaning. My car has 18,800 miles to date. I never had injectors cleaned on previous cars other than putting in cleaner into the gas tank from time to time. Was this service really needed or was my wallet also cleaned? Thanks, Bob
Steve: I'm not sure, I heard that was the way to do it. Maybe it's more important for it to be cool when you start it up after the ECU reset.
You might want to service the throttle body and fuel injection at 60k miles. It's not necessary if the car is running well and seems to be making its peak power.
Our Mazda 626 became sluggish, and a throttle body service fixed the problem. The difference was dramatic.
the neatest thing I came across was a Ford dealer in MN who used the oil for their heating! Not sure what they did with it in summer though, I hope they stored it for winter time use! It was also open 24 hr for service! The state highway patrol seemed to be there all the time getting their cars fixed at night. Most convenient and safest dealership in the world??
It's my two cents but I have had some miserable experiences with auto trannies. My 1991 Ford Taurus wagon went through 4 transmissions fortunately under warranty till I finally traded it in for the OB. But when I had it last it had a similar problem of getting stuck in first gear or downshifting to first gear. This last tranny only had 40K miles on it. There was a grawning sound coming from the transmission when the car would idle that I thought was the torque converter. Do you have any funny noises? It could be the modules that control shifting but since it is only 4 years old I am less inclined to think that an electronic part has failed. I am more inclined that with 158K miles on the tranny that it is mechanical in nature, that gears are failing. Is there any trouble shifting from 2nd to 3rd?
I would recommend a private shop to check for mechanical failure by checking the fluid and inspecting it. By the way, when was the last time the fluid was checked and changed? Low fluid will cuase erratic shifting. If you need a new tranny (probably about $2500) the car is only 4 years old and should still look nice. Good luck.
No, there is no unusual sounds coming from the trans. No problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The problem is not always there. When it works, which is most of the time, it shifts very smoothly. It started about a year and a half ago, at about at 115,000 miles. It was giving me trouble for about 6 months then it was fine for about 4 or 5 months, now it has started again. I have had the fluid changed and the system flushed about 2 months ago, but that didn't help. Other than this problem, the vehicle runs great and looks great. I have always adhered to the maintenance schedules put forth by Subaru. I sure hate the thought of sinking $2,500 bucks into it though. I have an appointment with the Subaru dealer in Frederick, MD this Thursday. I have always taken it in the past to the dealer in Hagerstown, MD but have had trouble with their service dept. several times. In my opinion, they are incompetent. I'll see what this service center has to say. I'll keep you all informed.
Also have noticed sometimes in the past that you have to squeeze the handle quite hard for the gate to pop open, other times just a light sqeeze will do. Sunday I was in Drumheller and temperature was 41C or 100+F and could not get the rear gate open all afternoon. Tried locking and unlocking with the keyless and with the key several times and no luck. Once temp cooled a bit it finally opened and closed ok. Anyone else exp this? I'll get the dealer to look at it I guess, but thats a pain since next service is far off. Otherwise the car has been very good and I'm really happy. Have about 8000km/5000mi on it now.
Old news, right? I just had this recall installed, and I have a simple question. Is it possible for the dealership to perform the installation WITHOUT removing the wheels? I had wheel studs damaged recently, and I think it was from this procedure, as they were fine (lug nuts and studs that is) a few months back and this has been the only service performed since then that should involve wheel removal.
I got my hands on a copy of the Repair Procedures WWE-88: Step #1 Raise vehicle on a lift. Step #2 Remove the left and right front wheels. Seems pretty clear to me, but the dealership says they don't have to remove the wheel to perform the install. Who's right? Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
The wheel stud was stripped so that you can't thread a lug nut onto it, it won't hold. It's pretty tough to do this with a tire iron (you'd feel it), it happens when you use an impact wrench on the nut. It needs to be replaced. An inexpensive repair, to be sure, but my issue is with the integrity and customer service of this dealer. If you screw up, fix it, don't try to hide it. I'm still not sure if they are telling the truth about the procedure. I smell a rat.
Since it is an easy and cheap fix, I'd personally fix it myself, and then not return to that dealer and not reccomend them to anyone.
What do you hope to accomplish by bringing it to their attention? I mean if they already ran BS lines past you do you think they really don't know they are harming cars by not using a torque stick?
I heard on the radio on my way home that the Auto Zone store will do a free diagnostic on your check engine light.... so, I stopped by an Auto Zone store and they found that I had a PO Code 720 Bad Speed Sensor. That makes sense why the transmission is getting "stuck" in 1st gear. I am on the phone RIGHT NOW with the Subaru Service Dept. attempting to get an estimate on replacing the sensor.......... waiting.... waiting.... waiting..... $216.00 + tax. I've got an appointment for Thursday (it's now Tuesday). I'll let you know if that takes care of the problem.
Very nice woody. That does make good sense. I had a similar problem although not sticking in gear when the speed sensors on my trooper went for the AWD system. Once replaced never had a problem again.
Mike- Very good point, and I agree, mostly . It will get fixed, probably not by this dealer. However, I still have several thousand miles left on my service contract with them, and must deal with them until that is used up, if anything more expensive goes wrong, which has happened twice in the past several months.
My initial question was whether it's true or not that the wheels must be removed to perform this recall procedure. I'm questioning the integrity of this shop, but not writing them off completely (yet) since the question still hasn't been answered, and I cannot prove they damaged the car, or whether it is in fact a required step in the process.
Anyone with knowledge about this procedure, thank you for any input you might have. Mike, thank you for your input as well. I'll be looking for other dealers to work with in the future.
Having converted my XT6 from the air suspension to the coilover that are stock on the legacy/2.5RS My guess is that it would take a lot of doing to perform that fix w/o taking the wheels off. I'll look at my dad's '97 tonight and see if I can figure out how they'd do it w/o taking a wheel off.
If yes, then, I had mine done and don't believe they had removed the wheels. It's a 2 piece funnel like contraption (sp) that is put together around the springs and then clamped and screwed/bolted.
"Sunday I was in Drumheller and temperature was 41C..."
Don't do it again! Been there, done that (39C when I was there) and the 00 OB was fine, although I was in hell. I'd expect that as long as your tailgate's electric lock was operating at all (did you hear/feel the actual tailgate or was it the sound of all the other locks?) some part of the lock is borderline maladjusted and the high temp expanded it just enough to foul it up. Wait for another 41C (or better!) day, drive back to Drumheller (the Earth's magnetic field may be affecting it too), pull off the tailgate trim (carefully with the proper tool) and spray a can of electronic component freezer onto the lock mechanism to see if it fixes it. Or on a cooler day try blowing a hair dryer onto it to see if you can reproduce the problem.
Goosegog Yeah, I could hear and feel the electric lock activating using my remote. I also tried the key and key turned ok and I noticed sometimes I could even squeeze the handle, but the dang thing still would not open. Good idea with the hair dryer. You are right I think. Must need slight adjustment. Maybe I might pull the panel and look at it and if I fix it I'll post the info. Thanks for your reply.
It's usually better to admit you don't know than to give the wrong answer. The person who told me they don't remove the wheels to do this recall was wrong. He is also the svc. mgr. ( I didn't know that the first time I talked to him ). When I called to tell the svc. mgr. that someone in their shop needs some straightening out, he admitted that he had given me bogus info when I talked to him the day before. The dealership is now fixing the wheel stud that they damaged.
1) Pleased that he admitted the mistake. Second chances are sometimes a good thing, people can, but don't always do, learn from mistakes.
2) Still disappointed about the quality of work and information at this shop. Then again, adding "manager" to one's name doesn't instantly make one any more competent or knowledgeable.
Thanks to all who took the time to read / respond.
I would like to get a Subaru when the lease on my Infiniti QX4 is up in December. I saw the link posted for the 2003 Outback and have a question. What is the difference between the Outback Sedan, Outback Wagon, and Outback LLBean models? Is the wagon longer than the sedan? If so, then why do the specs list both cargo capacity at 68.6 CF... I am 90 miles ( one way) from the nearest dealer, so I just cant pop in for a chat........ I also saw a Forrester on TV........ and wonder which vehicle would be right for me. I live in Mid Michigan, so we do get some heavy snow in winter. The area is flat and I do not do any off road traveling. I do have 4 German Shorthaired Pointer dogs ( each is about 70 pounds) which I transport to the Vet's, but No "Human" kids. I drive, on average, around 8,000 miles a year on secondary paved roads or highways.... No "in city" driving. Would a Forrester be a better choice for me or should I stick with the Outback, and If the outback, which one......the 6 cyl. wagon, sedan or LLBean. We will purchase this one, and plan to keep it for a good long time. I want all the "bells & whistles"......so if YOU were picking one out, WHAT WOULD YOU GET, the '02 or '03 model year and what OPTIONS. Please be specific so I can be ready when I go to the dealer. THANK YOU SO MUCH. LEE
Lee, you should take a peek at the specifications provided on the Subaru.com website.
But in a netshell, the Outback (and Legacy) models are all pretty similar. Same wheelbase, same length, etc even comparing the wagon to the sedan. I can't comment on the volume spec you mentioned, I would think the wagon would have quite a bit more volume than the sedan. But more to the point, all the wagons are the same size, with minor variations on interior headroom depending on provision of the sunroofs.
The Outback is a raised version of the Legacy wagon with bigger wheels and tires on a raised suspension, various other options and appearance add-ons.
I think any of the Subaru wagons would be suitable for your needs (secondary paved roads or highways).
The LL Bean is a "bells and whistles" model of the Outback, giving leather uphostery, a couple of additional neato gadgets, and of course the 6 cylinder engine. The VDC model gets the 6 cylinder with a superb stereo system and active traction control.
I have a Bean, and the standard list of features in the Bean is more than enough for my needs (basically just wanted the bigger engine) and I am very, very pleased with it after a year. The standard model Outback is pretty well equipped to start off, and others will say that the base engine is also plenty for all applications short of climbing mountain passes with a full load.
The Forrester has the same base engine of the Legacy/Outback, and all of the base features, but in a shorter wheelbase vehicle. Many say it is more fun to drive than a Legacy/Outback. The height is greater, so the useful volume may actually be greater depending on what you want to carry. I'm not sure which your dogs might prefer. Do you carry the dogs all at one time? In doggy crates? You might want to cart the whole lot down to the dealer and ensure that everyone fits. Would you really contemplate the sedan for carrying the dogs?
Comments
Patti
http://www.carlist.com/newcars/2003/subarulegacy.html
This next url shows a photo of the 03 Outback.
http://www.carlist.com/newcars/2003/subaruoutback.html
Enjoy!
-juice
Anyone hear anything about new exterior colors? I loved the bright red that Subaru had a couple of years ago when the new model just came out. Don't know why they got rid of it...
Bob
Bob
I'm also a bit interested to see what the special edition brings to the L lineup.
-Brian
Ed
Bob
I think I may even take a look at the new 2.5GT, just for giggles. If only the Blitzen motor was in it...
-Brian
I have seen a smattering of clutch related posts on this and other message boards. I was wondering if anyone knows more detail about this problem and potential Subaru remedies.
The problem itself is mostly an annoyance, especially on such a new and otherwise great car. I have not ever experienced such a problem on other manual transmission vehicles I have used. My biggest concern is that this problem will affect the clutch life span. Any advice or further information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
bit
My 01 Outback has been the subject of many, many posts here because of it's persistent clutch problem. The car was purchased new in 1/01 and now has 32000 miles on it and the clutch has given me fits since it was new. The shuddering used to only show up when it was cold outside, but now does it all the time, regardless of temperature. It's 106 degrees today, and it shuddered horribly on the way to get lunch, then settled down for the trip back to the office. The problem is amazingly erratic -- after all this time, I still cannot anticipate the problem or reproduce it at the dealer. It's an unfortunate problem for an otherwise fine car, but I will never own another manual transmission car from Subaru because of this. I've been told that Subaru uses an unusually hard clutch disk material which, combined with the 5 driveshafts of the awd, tend to magnify the vibration in the clutch at times. Others have had the problem for over 100K miles and just lived with it. I get the feeling I'll be living with this clutch for quite some time. The only temporary remedy that anyone has been able to suggest is to slip/burn the clutch a bit on takeoff when the shuddering is persistent. After a few high rpm shifts, too, the clutch will usually behave for the rest of the day. I normally upshift the car around 3K or so, and when I'm mad at the clutch I'll wind it up close to redline in 1st and 2nd -- seems to work for me anyway. It's disappointing, though, that a new car has such a prevalent defect that the manufacturer doesn't seem to care about. Email me if you want more details...
Brian
Hmm, looks like the 2003 L gets a single CD, which the wife would have liked. Still, I'm glad I got the 6CD changer, and we'd prefer that anyway.
Lit vanity mirrors, finally. Good move. Our 2002 doesn't have one at all on the passenger side.
Gets keyless, too, which we got, I guess as an option. We disabled the honking horn when you lock and unlock, so that chirp would be better.
The SE looks nice, with the 16" rims and moonroofs, plus the Momo wheel. I guess it kind of bridges the gap, not quite the GT from 2002, but a step up from the L. I guess they want the 2.5 GT to be more distinctive. Those will be sweet.
Those wheels are gonna be hard to clean, but I prefer the look. The grills is nicer too, with less chrome. It actually looks more like the grills on our 2002 L model.
-juice
The dealer had this to say about the problem:
"Normal operation when cold due to the surface on the flywheel"
If this is normal operation, then why does this behavior not manifest itself on all Subarus with this drivetrain? If I had experienced this "normal" behavior during my test drive, I would not have bought the car.
I have read a few articles concerning the 2003 model year mentioning a new "flexible flywheel". I wonder if this is how Subaru is addressing the clutch chattering. If so, perhaps the newer flywheel could be retrofitted on older models. Just a thought.
Bill
www.spdusa.com go to Other information / Driving tips / Shifting tips.
When you think about it, the clutch really does have to overcome the mass of all 4 wheels and linkages to move a Subie, not just two like most other cars.
Regarding the 03 clutch, I'll look into it...I know Subaru has updated their clutch design a few times over the past few years trying to remedy the problem, but so far they have not figured it out. I don't usually like automatics, but this experience has started to change my mind...
Shame the dealer can't fix that for you. Have you tried an independent transmission shop? They may have the transmission experience to correctly diagnose the problem.
Steve
A single smoking gun would be nice, but I'm thinking that's not likely. Especially after repeated trips to the dealer failed to correct it.
But I've been wrong before... and I've never had the guts (or reason) to open up an automatic transmission. I'd be interested in hearing your results regardless.
Good luck,
Steve
It was a costly repair but it did solve the problem.
Ron
But at 158k you've doubled the average life span of most auto trannies.
-juice
I've always wondered about the need to do the reset on a cold engine. Is that for the convenience (and safety) of the operator, or is it necesary to properly restart/reset the ECU?
Just curious,
Steve
I never had injectors cleaned on previous cars other than putting in cleaner into the gas tank from time to time. Was this service really needed or was my wallet also cleaned?
Thanks,
Bob
Many dealers are promoting double & triple the required oil & lube changes. Their social conscience seems a bit lacking.
You might want to service the throttle body and fuel injection at 60k miles. It's not necessary if the car is running well and seems to be making its peak power.
Our Mazda 626 became sluggish, and a throttle body service fixed the problem. The difference was dramatic.
-juice
-mike
I would recommend a private shop to check for mechanical failure by checking the fluid and inspecting it. By the way, when was the last time the fluid was checked and changed? Low fluid will cuase erratic shifting. If you need a new tranny (probably about $2500) the car is only 4 years old and should still look nice. Good luck.
No problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
The problem is not always there. When it works, which is most of the time, it shifts very smoothly. It started about a year and a half ago, at about at 115,000 miles. It was giving me trouble for about 6 months then it was fine for about 4 or 5 months, now it has started again.
I have had the fluid changed and the system flushed about 2 months ago, but that didn't help.
Other than this problem, the vehicle runs great and looks great. I have always adhered to the maintenance schedules put forth by Subaru. I sure hate the thought of sinking $2,500 bucks into it though. I have an appointment with the Subaru dealer in Frederick, MD this Thursday. I have always taken it in the past to the dealer in Hagerstown, MD but have had trouble with their service dept. several times. In my opinion, they are incompetent. I'll see what this service center has to say. I'll keep you all informed.
I got my hands on a copy of the Repair Procedures WWE-88: Step #1 Raise vehicle on a lift. Step #2 Remove the left and right front wheels. Seems pretty clear to me, but the dealership says they don't have to remove the wheel to perform the install. Who's right? Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
How are they damaged?
-mike
What do you hope to accomplish by bringing it to their attention? I mean if they already ran BS lines past you do you think they really don't know they are harming cars by not using a torque stick?
-mike
-mike
Very good point, and I agree, mostly
My initial question was whether it's true or not that the wheels must be removed to perform this recall procedure. I'm questioning the integrity of this shop, but not writing them off completely (yet) since the question still hasn't been answered, and I cannot prove they damaged the car, or whether it is in fact a required step in the process.
Anyone with knowledge about this procedure, thank you for any input you might have. Mike, thank you for your input as well. I'll be looking for other dealers to work with in the future.
-mike
-Dave
Don't do it again! Been there, done that (39C when I was there) and the 00 OB was fine, although I was in hell. I'd expect that as long as your tailgate's electric lock was operating at all (did you hear/feel the actual tailgate or was it the sound of all the other locks?) some part of the lock is borderline maladjusted and the high temp expanded it just enough to foul it up. Wait for another 41C (or better!) day, drive back to Drumheller (the Earth's magnetic field may be affecting it too), pull off the tailgate trim (carefully with the proper tool) and spray a can of electronic component freezer onto the lock mechanism to see if it fixes it. Or on a cooler day try blowing a hair dryer onto it to see if you can reproduce the problem.
Yeah, I could hear and feel the electric lock activating using my remote. I also tried the key and key turned ok and I noticed sometimes I could even squeeze the handle, but the dang thing still would not open. Good idea with the hair dryer. You are right I think. Must need slight adjustment. Maybe I might pull the panel and look at it and if I fix it I'll post the info.
Thanks for your reply.
SJ: fix that stud. What if you get a flat?
Woody: $216? Try buying the part from a wholesaler. I bet parts@libertysubaru.com has the same thing in the $160-$180 price range.
-juice
1) Pleased that he admitted the mistake. Second chances are sometimes a good thing, people can, but don't always do, learn from mistakes.
2) Still disappointed about the quality of work and information at this shop. Then again, adding "manager" to one's name doesn't instantly make one any more competent or knowledgeable.
Thanks to all who took the time to read / respond.
I also saw a Forrester on TV........ and wonder which vehicle would be right for me. I live in Mid Michigan, so we do get some heavy snow in winter. The area is flat and I do not do any off road traveling. I do have 4 German Shorthaired Pointer dogs ( each is about 70 pounds) which I transport to the Vet's, but No "Human" kids. I drive, on average, around 8,000 miles a year on secondary paved roads or highways.... No "in city" driving. Would a Forrester be a better choice for me or should I stick with the Outback, and If the outback, which one......the 6 cyl. wagon, sedan or LLBean. We will purchase this one, and plan to keep it for a good long time. I want all the
"bells & whistles"......so if YOU were picking one out, WHAT WOULD YOU GET, the '02 or '03 model year and what OPTIONS. Please be specific so I can be ready when I go to the dealer.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
LEE
But in a netshell, the Outback (and Legacy) models are all pretty similar. Same wheelbase, same length, etc even comparing the wagon to the sedan. I can't comment on the volume spec you mentioned, I would think the wagon would have quite a bit more volume than the sedan. But more to the point, all the wagons are the same size, with minor variations on interior headroom depending on provision of the sunroofs.
The Outback is a raised version of the Legacy wagon with bigger wheels and tires on a raised suspension, various other options and appearance add-ons.
I think any of the Subaru wagons would be suitable for your needs (secondary paved roads or highways).
The LL Bean is a "bells and whistles" model of the Outback, giving leather uphostery, a couple of additional neato gadgets, and of course the 6 cylinder engine. The VDC model gets the 6 cylinder with a superb stereo system and active traction control.
I have a Bean, and the standard list of features in the Bean is more than enough for my needs (basically just wanted the bigger engine) and I am very, very pleased with it after a year. The standard model Outback is pretty well equipped to start off, and others will say that the base engine is also plenty for all applications short of climbing mountain passes with a full load.
The Forrester has the same base engine of the Legacy/Outback, and all of the base features, but in a shorter wheelbase vehicle. Many say it is more fun to drive than a Legacy/Outback. The height is greater, so the useful volume may actually be greater depending on what you want to carry. I'm not sure which your dogs might prefer. Do you carry the dogs all at one time? In doggy crates? You might want to cart the whole lot down to the dealer and ensure that everyone fits. Would you really contemplate the sedan for carrying the dogs?