Check your transmission oil. If you do mostly city driving with mostly short trips and a lot of stop and go, you probably need to change your transmission and differential oil every 15K miles. But, talk to a Subaru dealer to verify.
Suresh: I agree with Joe. You can ask your dealer to flush the ATF at your 15k or 30k service (for automatics).
If you have a manual, they drain and refill the transmission with 75w90 gear oil.
Also make sure there isn't any oil spilled or leaking, and check the oil level each time you fill up the gas tank.
Paul: what you want is the 2005 SUW Subaru is designing. It's supposed to be longer than the Outback and have a 3rd row seat. I'm actually pretty interested to see it myself.
I am planning on replacing the four door mounted factory speakers in my 01 Outback. Does anyone have experience of removing the speaker grills. It looks like prying them off is the only way. Alternatively do I have to remove the door panels to get at the speakers?
This is a much better vehicle thatn my old 97 Pathfinder but the sound system is not as good.
We just picked up our 1998 Outback last night. I am impressed with the car. The ride is excellent for a vehicle that you would come to expect a rough ride. The radio is lacking a bit. Does anyone know a good website that we can purchase accessories from?
Sarah, forget the premium stereo you will get a much better deal in the aftermarket. Clark, same goes for you forget factory systems, an excellent site for car audio, great support, installation guide for your particular vehicle as well as great prices, the site is,www.crutchfield.com give them a shot. Cheers Pat.
Do the right thing, get rid of the stock speakers, I blew one out within 2 months. You have to remove the whole door panel to access the speakers. The grills are not separate.
I agree that you can get a better aftermarket stereo than Subaru's premium, but the in-dash CD changer and subwoofer work fine, look good and are unobtrusive.
I just got a 01 OB limited and am impressed with the car. I know I could probably get a better deal but, there is no other dealer nearby. And I never bought one online so I don't kknow if that is reliable. I am impressed with the system. I know the ltd comes with the upgraded speakers. But it sounds really nice. I like the cd player and the cassette. What I don't like is that the sunroof above me does not open. It tilts. It is the people in the back that get the full open sunroof. I am curious if it is worth getting the extendeed warranty 7 years 100,000 mile warranty? I almost regret not getting the LL bean for 2K more. It has H6 and doesn't need timming belts. I plan to do my own maintenance. I still have not found the oil filter. And it is auto. So I don't think the tranny filter needs to be replaced. Any ideas as to what to treat the leather interior with? Any maintenance tips would be great. By the way Ateixeira---sounds portuguese???
I have another question. What is depreciation on the Obis I see 3 year old cutbacks for sale for about 16K That scares me since I paid 26K for my B. Does that mean that in 2004 my car will only be worth 16K???
You may have to remove the bottom cover to access the oil filter and drain plug - I do on my Forester. On the Forester there are 4 bolts and two push pins that hold it in place (use a flat screw driver to remove the pins). It's easier than it sounds, though ramps do wonders to ease the process.
Careful - the tranny drain plug is just a bit further back and grease monkey rookies have removed it by mistake. Look for the oil pan.
Your first change should be done at 3k miles.
As for the extended warranty, you can wait and decide later. The powertrain is already covered for 5 years.
Anibal, lexol is a good leather conditioner, pour about a teaspoon on the seat cushion work it in well with your bare hands do the same for the seat backs,do not use rags to apply it this just wastes the conditioner,let it sit for about 15 minutes after you have rubbed it in then wipe off with clean cloth, do this about 3 times a year and your leather should last as long as the car, the leather will crack if it is not conditioned on a regular basis, incidently a bonus to rubbing in with your hands it is actually great on your hands as well. Cheers Pat.
What is a brazilian doing driving a Subie AWD??? You are definitely not in Brazil--he he he. Sou Portugues!!! I don't use ramps as they take too much time to set up. I just use Hydraulic Jack. However, the OB is pretty high and I wonder if I will need anything at all. I will certainly try not to mistake the oil pan with the tranny plug. I may do the 30K at dealer as they recommend changing brake fluid and radiator fluid... To me that is strange. I have 90 Honda Accord and never changed brake fluid. Anyone ever change their own timming belts??? I am sure that is a pricey thing to do. I have to check with deaeler to find out how much for oil change. I like working on cars but takes lots of time. And I have power tools too. Oh yeah. On the Accord I changed my own cv boots. Are they hard to do on the Subies? On the Honda they just popped off with an impact of a strong hammer! Fairly easy to do. Thanks for the Lexor idea. I will look for a leather conditioner soon! I want to enjoy the new car smell a little longer.
Apparently under the hood there is a place to put a fuse named FWD that makes the Subie act as a Front wheel drive vehicle. I don't think it is recommended. But what is it for? Also the gas mileage is horrible and I use 92 octane. I only got good gas mileage on the way from Lake tahoe to Bay area and that is because it was downhill most of the way. As for the breaking in of the engine, I did rev it up sometimes as I went to lake tahoe and wanted to see the performance. I am sure that it did not harm the engine. Any thoughts on these topics! After a trip to Tahoe I installed the acrylic hood deflector. That is after I had to touch up two chips on the hood!
It's been quite some time since I've been on the forum here. I've been reading to catch up, and noticed that noone has responded to shoobsube's questions yet (Message #499). Thought I might be able to shed some light on a few of them.
I've had my Outback for a couple years now. Standard model, with the Nordic package. Navy blue. I took it as I got it, since it kind of dropped on me out of the blue (won the sucker in a giveaway, if you can believe that). It's great for the snows up here in Maine and those long trips to the coast to pick up fresh lobster. But I've noticed a few of the same problems shoobsube has had, and found a couple solutions to them.
1) The brake squeal. I notice that after the first few weeks with the car. Thought it might have been a rotor problem till I took a look under there. Turned out a family of mice had made their home above the wheel-well, and every now and again one of them would get their tails stuck in the brakes! Cleaned 'em out of there with rodent spray, and picked up a tomcat down at the ASPCA. Mice haven't come back since.
2) The steering wheel squeak. Never had this happen to me. My best guess is you've got a problem with your car's heating system. Could be the starter, but I'm betting it's the heating system.
3) The plasticky clicking sound that comes when you shift into second gear is actually the product of a weird engineering flaw in the car. The gearbox happens to be connected to the mileage counter, and it's connected closest at 2nd gear. If you check the counter when you shift into 2nd, you'll notice that the mileage counter clicks over rapidly. There's your problem. Shouldn't affect the car, 'ceptin for your resale value.
I just answered my own question. I went to www.subaru.com which says that the FWD fuse is for when you use the spare. It says to put in a fuse and it will make the car FWD and thus eliminating the risk of damamge to the AWD system because of different size wheels. So I presume that if you install the fuse you can tow the car. Anyone agree? It says that the FWD light will go on and when wheel is fixed to remove fuse. There is a big thing about rotating tires and checking pressure. How do you rotate tires? The front with the rear on the same side or do you criss cross them???? Let me know! Thanks
I just got a call from a car salesman associated with Autobytel. For the base wagon with destination charges, all weather package, rough road package and teeter kit, he quoted $21,824. That sounds pretty good to me. I have to drive an hour and a half to another state to get it. Is it worth getting the tweeter kit? I plan on going the aftermarket route for the stereo.
Thanks Halfback! I appreciate your response about my brake noises...I hope I don't have mice! I just dropped my Outback off at the dealer and the rep there seemed familiar with the brake noises. He said they were "normal" for the Outback and that they would clean and lube the brakes as a complimentary gesture the first time, but after that I would be charged since this is supposed to be "normal". Sounds a bit iffy to me. We'll see what they say about the 2nd gear click and the steering wheel noise.
On a different topic, I live in the San Francisco Bay Area but head up to Tahoe (snow country) now and then. Occasionally, during big storms, chains are required on all vehicles except those with 4wd/awd AND snow tires. (I believe this is the rule, but I may be wrong.) So if I don't have snow tires, can I even put chains on the Outback? And this would be twice the trouble since I would have to put chains on all 4 tires! What do Bay Area people do about this if they don't want to drive around with snow tires on all the time, or if I don't even have snow tires since I'm not in snow very often?
Anibal: I'd at least do the oil. That's the only frequent service required. If you do the oil and feel up to it, I'd work up to the harder jobs. Leave the timing belt and brake bleeding to the pros, until at least you have more experience.
Ramps take no time at all to set up. Lay them down, drive up.
I rotate the tires front to back only, no criss cross.
If you need chains, get the low clearance type (Z chains?), since regular chains won't fit. If you drive in a lot of snow, a set of snow tires is probably better.
Two things every buyer should know about new Soobs: first, the new car smell can be truly awful, but goes away. Second, mileage improves with age, and noticeably.
Halfback: great cat story! Is he in a union? ;-)
CF: sounds good. The tweeters are pretty effective, so you may want them even if you replace the rest of the stereo.
I will most likely do the oil changes for sure. It takes me less than 1/2 hour and I like to use Castro oil. Is there a better brand. The manual says 5-30. Does anyone actually use that? Usually people use 10-30 or 10-40. I think it protects more. Is it worth using the synthetic stuff 5-50? Let me know. The car only calls for the timing belts at 105,000 miles. Great. I think the 2.5 litre engine is NON-INTERFERENCE. YES! Ateixeira are you sure the gas mileage increases? I thought it would get worse with wear and tear.
Hi, I'd like to rust proof my new Legacy L 2001. I'd like to use local Ziebard shop. My concern is that they drill holes in the body (doors) to apply the protective compaund. Does this void manufacturer's waranty? If so, what shop can you recommend in Minneapolis, MN area? Do you think that it is worth it to get a rust proofing from the dealer. How overpriced are they usually?
I have never heard of such a thing! Why would you do it? Cars these days are well prepared and as long as you wash it and put wax on it every now and then you should be ok. I have a 90 Accord and it looks great. It went throufh lots of snow and sand and salt. Key is to wash it. However I am curious if people do that to Subies and how much it costs. I would imagine that the best thing to do would be to powder coat it!
I agree with anibalb. With today's cars with galvanized steel, rustproofing is not necessary. You are better off running it through a carwash with an underbody wash after snow and salt and then make sure to get a good coat of wax on the finish twice a year. Years ago (20+), I had a vehicle "Ziebarted" where they drilled the holes. Although I never had a problem with rust, there was a mess on the trunk lid and the wheel wells in the trunk where their rustproofing leaked out. I live in the Chgo area and have not "rustproofed" the last 4 vehicles we have owned and have not had any rust problems. Ron
Hi there! Although I don't live in the Bay Area, I did work there (here, to be totally accurate, seeing as I am back visiting for a week) and had my Legacy GT with me. I studied the regulations surrounding the tire restrictions very carefully, and this is the result of that study.
1. Carry chains. Even if you never use them you may be required to show that you have them.
2. The "snow tire" regulation is "mud and snow tire", otherwise labeled M&S. Virtually every all-season tire in existence carries this label. Check your tires. (That being said, true winter tires will be far, far better in snow than any all-season tire.)
3. A Subie shod at least with all-season tires and also carrying chains in the trunk will be allowed through any road that has not been closed completely.
I would definitely check with Subaru if the warranty will be voided by having the car rustproofed, some manufacturers expressly tell you rustproofing will void the factory warranty covering rustout Honda being one such manufacturer, they claim that the stuff that is sprayed in blocks vital drain holes and actually causes premature rust. Cheers Pat.
I have searched for repair manuals such as the Hayes. I cannot find anything at all for the legacy/Outback 2000 or 2001. The most recent I found is up to 99. However that does not include the 2.5 litre engine. Anyone have a repair manual??? Thanks!
Shoobsube - sounds like francophile got it right when it comes to the snow tires issue. Truth of the matter is, the tires that came with my Outback are perfectly adequate for the snows up here in Maine. The car runs like clappers in the snow - never once had a problem. If the Mounties up in the Tahoe area (is that near Mt. Shasta?) give you any trouble, just offer them a test drive. They'll let you off.
More importantly, what is your dealer doing charging you for brake lubes on a "normal" condition? Sounds like a rip-off to me. I hadn't noticed any built-in money sinks like that in my car, but it sounds like you've got one. Next thing you know, they'll start telling you to bring the car in for regular vent cleaning or some cockamammey thing like that. Don't buy it! Just get yourself a cat and watch this problem disappear...
I have been reading some of the earlier posts. It seems everyone is putting down the performance of the H4 with auto and furthermore saying it does not do well in high altitudes. I must have the exceptional OB ltd. I took it to Tahoe and it did fine on pulling me uphill all the way there. The Tranny did great too. I tested the sensor on the pedal and sure enough if you accelerate fast it will downshift instantaneously! As for squeeking brakes, no prob yet. The Subie performed better at 7,000 feet than a cessna at 5,000. As for getting good prices, my ltd had sticker price of 27,590. Got it for 26,000. I don't think it was best deal but, certainly was not worst. This was 1st new car I ever got. Both wife and I love it. And I really think the H4 with auto is peppy enough.. If only both sunroofs could open...... Does anyone think 26 was bad deal in Bay Area. I would be curious to know. No buyers remorse, just look at it as learning experience..... Overall I must say the posts are very positive. Go Subaru! I think we should all buy Subaru stock!!
Subaru specifically recommends against rust proofing. They actually apply an undercoating at the factory on all Foresters, which is what causes that awful new-car smell.
In my case, and most that I've heard of, you can expect mileage to improve with age. And I'm talking 15k miles, not 3k miles.
Don't sweat price. Enjoy driving your Soob. Hope it gives you great memories.
I picked up my car from the dealer today, (Stevens Creek Subaru in San Jose, CA,) and the first thing they said was that the guy who did my last oil change failed to put a gasket on the drain plug and failed to remove the gravel shield when he changed the oil so that oil was leaking onto the gravel shield and was producing a burning smell. Needless to say, I was not pleased. I had gone to Sunnyvale Foreign Auto for the oil change on the recommendation of a shop I trusted, and now I don't know who to go to for basic oil changes unless I take it to the dealer every time. (A pain.) They also said that it makes a big difference whether you use a Sube factory oil filter because it has a pressure valve and that no after market oil filters have this feature -- is this correct?
They said the brake squeak was "normal" and that they would lube and clean the pads this time for free, but I would be charged to do it in the future. He tried to tell me this noise was normal for all cars, which I know is bogus since this is my 4th car and I've never once heard a brake squeak in my life!
The clicking sound when shifting into 2nd gear was supposedly caused by dry shifter rods, which they lubed, but I'm still getting the same clicking noise!
My allignment was off, (pulled to the left), so they adjusted the tire pressure and rotated the tires (criss crossed), and it has definitely improved.
They said only cables would fit on the Outback, and that I shouldn't need them, but should carry them with me when heading into snow country. My factory tires, Wilderness Firestone, do not say M&S on them anywhere.
They couldn't reproduce the steering wheel noise, so I'll have to bring it back in when it's making the noise.
I have a 2001 4 cyl Outback Wagon. So far (6,500 miles, 5 months) it has been fantastic. However, I just returned from a trip to Vermont and the car struggled to start in the AM in very cold weather (5 degrees). I added some dry gas to the fuel tank and it did not seem to help.
Is anyone familiar with this problem and/or know possible solutions?
Last four cars I have had from new have definitely improved fuel economy over time. VW's are well known for it as also for performance improving after about 15000 miles.
My Outback took about 25000km or about 16000 miles for fuel economy to stabilize down with overall improvement of about 10%.
We really need a mechanical engineer posting on this site to explain why this happens.
Graham, I can take a stab at why fuel economy improves with age, but feel free to correct me.
Any new mechanical device has a certain amount of interference between components. For a car, there is interference between the gears, bearings, oil seals, valves, etc. The most friction comes in the engine from the cylinder liners and piston rings. As the car gets broken-in, the parts wear slightly and mesh smoother, resulting in less gas robbing friction. Unfortunately, after more time excessive wear occurs and mileage may drop while oil consumption increases.
Just put in 4 new 6.5in 2-way speakers in my 01 Ltd. It was quite easy though I had to pop off the door panels. It made a huge difference to audio quality highlighting how cheap the factory speakers are. The factories are quite sensitive so they give the impression of being better than they actually are. Once you push up the bass though they distort quite readily. Anyway, for all of you thinking of what to do, replacing the factory speakers is an easy and relatively cheap way to go. There is a specific order to taking off the door panels.
1. Pry off the switch cover from the top with a covered screw driver- disconnect the wires and remove the cover. Remove the hidden screw.
2. Pop off the small cover on the arm rest and remove the screw.
3. Remove cover from inside the door handle fitting and remove screw.
4. Pry off the door handle surround (this can be a bit stiff but if you push the bottom section down it will come off.
5. Grab the panel under the weather stripping and gently pry it off. Then the panel should simply lift up and away.
6. The Tweeters on the front doors need to be popped off prior to the above.
Thanks for sharing that, I'm sure it will help many folks.
ShoobSube: the OE Subaru oil filter unit is made by Purolator, so presumably those would be identical. However, given you can get OE filters with drain plug gaskets for $4 from Darlene, I don't see why not just go OE.
oregonman I am in Knappa, Or (about 15 miles east of Astoria and I also started out looking for a late model station wagon to replace my '91 Honda Accord w/142k. Couldn't really find anything so started looking at Suabaru OB. I've pretty much decided to get a new LL BEAN but specifically addressing your concern that you did'nt get any call on your soob I think this is what is happening. The price of new cars has been steadily dropping for the last few months so naturally the price of used cars is following suit. If I had to pay MSRP for a new OB I would be willing to pay a couple of grand more for a used one. As it is Thomason Subaru has LLBEANS with MSRP of $30,920 offered for $27,388 and that does incldude transportation. Considering the fact that the LL's at Fitzgeralds have zero options Thomason is about a grand less. In Longview, Wa I was quoted $28,045 for the same car and when I told them about Thomasons offer the said they would match it. I will probably go with Bud Clary in Longview, Wa since they are only 35 miles from me. ( and no sales tax to oregon residents as I'm sure you know). Anyway my observation was that any used LL"s (which are very rare) were going for almost the same as a new one and new is always better than used. I will probably buy before the 3.9% offer runs out even tho I had intended to pay cash. Might as well keep my money in a MM @ 6.5%. Any thoughts?
The price you indicate you can buy an LL Bean, delivery included, ($27,388) is probably just below dealer invoice, assuming the MSRP figure of $30,920 includes a few "options." If you feel the dealer is "good" and the service will be what you'd expect, I'd say you have more than a fair price! And, you are correct to consider 3.9% financing when you can earn above 5% in a money market.
I have an LL Bean wagon and enjoy it very much. Compared to the '96 Outback I traded in, the '01 is better in many, many ways. And, I had NO problems with the '96 or my '92 SVX before that!
I have to admit I haven't actually been to Thomason Subaru but I did call them about this price in the paper. They told me they had four LL's on hand and if I wrote a check for $27,388 + 45 or so for lic and reg it would be mine. I have bought a few toyotas from Thomason over the years and I was impressed that what they adverstised they had and no run around or added fees. Of course they always try to sell you extended warranties and financing but that's just water off a ducks back so far as I'm concerned. (I'm 61 and have bought about 50 cars and trucks)
What I was trying to do was use Thomason as a low ball price and try to get Bud Clary to match it. In any case my wife likes the salesman at Bud Clary so it would be nice to buy there. And also that is where I would take it for service (even tho that wouldn't matter regarding the warranty.
I guess the only thing I have been holding off for was the remote possibility of a factory rebate. Don't really hold out much hope for that tho since the economy is not going in the tank at the rate I predicted (that's a good thing, right?) Well the old Honda still runs like a top so we don't have to be in a rush.
I would like to express my appreciation for all the great posts and especially for the civility on this board. It's like a breath of fresh air after visiting the stock boards.
For those of you that say you can get an LL for 27,400.....WOW seems like a deal to me. I paid 26,000 for my ltd. Did I get robbed? The sticker price was 27,590. In any case, I knew I could get same car as mine on the web for about 500 less. But I wanted to establish relationship with dealer for good service in future. Also, it seems that in the Bay Area and being the only dealer nearby, there was not much comparison I could do. In any case, my limited pulled to the left. I brought it in immediately and they did an alignment. After I got it back it pulled to right. The guy was great. He told me to bring it back. He had the alignment re-checked. No prob. So he balanced wheels and rotated them. He was great about it. I also upgraded the security system. 500 dollars to me is not much. I rather the great service and discount on parts. But for 27,400 I would buy the LL in a heart beat. definitely finance at these rates folks. Take advantage of it. Although the stock mkt is not doing well so be careful what you invest in. Cheers!
Who is this Darlene you keep mentioning? It seems you go to her for parts??? Who is she , where does she work? And is this where you get your parts? As for the oil filter, there is plenty of aftermarket filters that have the same features of the originals. I worked in an autoparts store for a very long time. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff that sometimes is better than originals!! I would say you would have to know your brands for different products. Like never use champion spark plugs on a Japanese car. It may seem stupid but you would be amazed how many do that. Also, aftermarket products sometimes carry better warranty! Bendix brakes have lifetime warranty and so do monroe shocks! If you do it yourself and plan to keep car long it may be worth it!
Does anyone know who makes the stereo used in the Outback and Outback Limited? It sounds like its better to go the aftermarket route for a sound system. Is the receiver OK but the speakers not so good? How about the upgraded speakers?
C F. the stereo in the outback is made by Panasonic as far as the speakers even the upgraded speakers are very poor quality. check out www.crutchfield.com the size of speaker is six and a half inchs,you can almost always get better quality in the aftermarket for less money. Cheers Pat.
If you look at your Firestone Tires close to the wheel rim just after the tire size, the M & S appears in small letters (I had to use my glasses and a flashlight). The tire is also rated as traction A. I have never had to use chains on either one of my Outbacks (I liked the tires on my 97 better!) but still carry them. Purchase cable chains which fit SAE Class "S" cars. Only the "S" rated cable chains are approved for the Outback. If you ever need them and I doubt if you will, mount them on the front wheels for better steering and braking. Tom
The same dealer who is trying to sell me an LL for $27,400 is offering a LTD for $25,800 so that just appears to be the spread. My reasoning went like this: first I decided I definitely wanted a LTD, then I figured if I'm going to jump 5k for a LTD then I can dang well go 1600 more for the H6 + the other minor goodies.
It took me a while to come around but I finally got a fairly lengthy test drive in the H6. Driving on I-5 did the trick. I have a '91 honda accord wagon and I felt it could outrun the H4 (might have been my imagination) The traffic flows about 75 to 80 on I-5 and at that speed the H6 is so quite its disconcerting. I told my wife if I don't use cruise control I'm going to find myself explaining a 90MPH ticket. It just silently creeps up on you if you don't pay attention. My wife wants a white one and one is coming so I will probably buy when it arrives.
I was dissapointed to find out the 30k checkup isn't covered under the LLB freebie. however the service department told me there is very little to do at 30k anyway so it doesn't about to the 400+ that I have been hearing.
Anyway we have a trip down the Oregon coast next month so hope we will have the new ride to try out.
The M+S rating does not mean much. They only LOOK at the tread to give it that. No tests are done.
There is a new "*" (snow flake) that will start appearing on tires, and that will actually mean something. The Firestones are not that good in snow, from what I've heard.
Darlene is a wholesale supplier who works for Quality Subaru in TN. I shopped around a lot and always ended up buying from her because her prices were the best. I ended up helping her put up a web site to expand her marketing beyond just the TN area.
She sells oil filters for $4 and ships them to your door for free. That includes the washer. That's what cheap Fram filters cost, and those are said to be constructed cheaply. There are good ones, but if the price is not higher, why not go OE?
She's got touch-up paint for $4. Her cargo net is actually less than the cheap imitation I got at Wal Mart! DOH!~
So yeah, she's become my exclusive supplier, and I am happy with her service.
I loved the coupe. It was a black model and looked wonderful, especially when clean. As it was one of the first in the area, I got more than my share of stares, especially when people looked at the windows. I did get used to that design although it was a pain when going through the toll booths! Life can be full of compromises!
The car cruised effortlessly in the upper ranges. Adults could actually sit in the back seats for short distances. The technical innovations were great and I did like the rain sensitive windshield wipers. Gas mileage was also great and on one highway run I did manage well over 30 mpg. Not too bad for a car that weighed in at 3600 lbs plus!
Other than having to replace the driver's window switch (which had an automatic UP and Down) at 37,000 miles--done as a warranty courtesy--I had absolutely no trouble. I never experienced tranny trouble but then, I traded the car with 55,000 miles for an Outback in September of '95 (a 2.5 wagon). My reason for getting rid of the SVX was I wanted a car that could be fitted with a secure bicycle rack which does mean a roof rack. Due to the window design, this was impossible on the SVX. I do a lot of bicycling and I have a good sum tied up in my road bike. When traveling on the expressway with the bike fastened to a "bumper-trunk-lid rack" I noticed the bike and the rack swaying at 70 mph. That was enough!
Am I sorry I sold the SVX? If I had the space and unlimited funds, I'd still own it. But then, I'd still own my '74 Alfa Romeo GTV coupe.
Comments
If you have a manual, they drain and refill the transmission with 75w90 gear oil.
Also make sure there isn't any oil spilled or leaking, and check the oil level each time you fill up the gas tank.
Paul: what you want is the 2005 SUW Subaru is designing. It's supposed to be longer than the Outback and have a 3rd row seat. I'm actually pretty interested to see it myself.
-juice
This is a much better vehicle thatn my old 97 Pathfinder but the sound system is not as good.
Thanks
A good aftermarket set should give you noticeable improvements in sound quality.
-juice
I'd appreciate any feedback on this, as I've appreciated this forum in general as well as the answers I've received to specific questions.
Congrats on the new ride. My cousin has a '99, and the ride is very good. My dad's 2001 rides even smoother.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
I agree that you can get a better aftermarket stereo than Subaru's premium, but the in-dash CD changer and subwoofer work fine, look good and are unobtrusive.
I just got a 01 OB limited and am impressed with the car. I know I could probably get a better deal but, there is no other dealer nearby. And I never bought one online so I don't kknow if that is reliable. I am impressed with the system. I know the ltd comes with the upgraded speakers. But it sounds really nice. I like the cd player and the cassette. What I don't like is that the sunroof above me does not open. It tilts. It is the people in the back that get the full open sunroof. I am curious if it is worth getting the extendeed warranty 7 years 100,000 mile warranty? I almost regret not getting the LL bean for 2K more. It has H6 and doesn't need timming belts. I plan to do my own maintenance. I still have not found the oil filter. And it is auto. So I don't think the tranny filter needs to be replaced. Any ideas as to what to treat the leather interior with? Any maintenance tips would be great. By the way Ateixeira---sounds portuguese???
I have another question. What is depreciation on the Obis I see 3 year old cutbacks for sale for about 16K That scares me since I paid 26K for my B. Does that mean that in 2004 my car will only be worth 16K???
You may have to remove the bottom cover to access the oil filter and drain plug - I do on my Forester. On the Forester there are 4 bolts and two push pins that hold it in place (use a flat screw driver to remove the pins). It's easier than it sounds, though ramps do wonders to ease the process.
Careful - the tranny drain plug is just a bit further back and grease monkey rookies have removed it by mistake. Look for the oil pan.
Your first change should be done at 3k miles.
As for the extended warranty, you can wait and decide later. The powertrain is already covered for 5 years.
Seja bem-vindo.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
Apparently under the hood there is a place to put a fuse named FWD that makes the Subie act as a Front wheel drive vehicle. I don't think it is recommended. But what is it for? Also the gas mileage is horrible and I use 92 octane. I only got good gas mileage on the way from Lake tahoe to Bay area and that is because it was downhill most of the way. As for the breaking in of the engine, I did rev it up sometimes as I went to lake tahoe and wanted to see the performance. I am sure that it did not harm the engine. Any thoughts on these topics! After a trip to Tahoe I installed the acrylic hood deflector. That is after I had to touch up two chips on the hood!
It's been quite some time since I've been on the forum here. I've been reading to catch up, and noticed that noone has responded to shoobsube's questions yet (Message #499). Thought I might be able to shed some light on a few of them.
I've had my Outback for a couple years now. Standard model, with the Nordic package. Navy blue. I took it as I got it, since it kind of dropped on me out of the blue (won the sucker in a giveaway, if you can believe that). It's great for the snows up here in Maine and those long trips to the coast to pick up fresh lobster. But I've noticed a few of the same problems shoobsube has had, and found a couple solutions to them.
1) The brake squeal. I notice that after the first few weeks with the car. Thought it might have been a rotor problem till I took a look under there. Turned out a family of mice had made their home above the wheel-well, and every now and again one of them would get their tails stuck in the brakes! Cleaned 'em out of there with rodent spray, and picked up a tomcat down at the ASPCA. Mice haven't come back since.
2) The steering wheel squeak. Never had this happen to me. My best guess is you've got a problem with your car's heating system. Could be the starter, but I'm betting it's the heating system.
3) The plasticky clicking sound that comes when you shift into second gear is actually the product of a weird engineering flaw in the car. The gearbox happens to be connected to the mileage counter, and it's connected closest at 2nd gear. If you check the counter when you shift into 2nd, you'll notice that the mileage counter clicks over rapidly. There's your problem. Shouldn't affect the car, 'ceptin for your resale value.
I hope this has been helpful. Juice, you the man.
Halfback
I just answered my own question. I went to www.subaru.com which says that the FWD fuse is for when you use the spare. It says to put in a fuse and it will make the car FWD and thus eliminating the risk of damamge to the AWD system because of different size wheels. So I presume that if you install the fuse you can tow the car. Anyone agree? It says that the FWD light will go on and when wheel is fixed to remove fuse. There is a big thing about rotating tires and checking pressure. How do you rotate tires? The front with the rear on the same side or do you criss cross them???? Let me know! Thanks
On a different topic, I live in the San Francisco Bay Area but head up to Tahoe (snow country) now and then. Occasionally, during big storms, chains are required on all vehicles except those with 4wd/awd AND snow tires. (I believe this is the rule, but I may be wrong.) So if I don't have snow tires, can I even put chains on the Outback? And this would be twice the trouble since I would have to put chains on all 4 tires! What do Bay Area people do about this if they don't want to drive around with snow tires on all the time, or if I don't even have snow tires since I'm not in snow very often?
--ShoobSube
Ramps take no time at all to set up. Lay them down, drive up.
I rotate the tires front to back only, no criss cross.
If you need chains, get the low clearance type (Z chains?), since regular chains won't fit. If you drive in a lot of snow, a set of snow tires is probably better.
Two things every buyer should know about new Soobs: first, the new car smell can be truly awful, but goes away. Second, mileage improves with age, and noticeably.
Halfback: great cat story! Is he in a union? ;-)
CF: sounds good. The tweeters are pretty effective, so you may want them even if you replace the rest of the stereo.
-juice
I will most likely do the oil changes for sure. It takes me less than 1/2 hour and I like to use Castro oil. Is there a better brand. The manual says 5-30. Does anyone actually use that? Usually people use 10-30 or 10-40. I think it protects more. Is it worth using the synthetic stuff 5-50? Let me know. The car only calls for the timing belts at 105,000 miles. Great. I think the 2.5 litre engine is NON-INTERFERENCE. YES! Ateixeira are you sure the gas mileage increases? I thought it would get worse with wear and tear.
I'd like to rust proof my new Legacy L 2001. I'd like to use local Ziebard shop.
My concern is that they drill holes in the body (doors) to apply the protective compaund. Does this void manufacturer's waranty? If so, what shop can you recommend in Minneapolis, MN area?
Do you think that it is worth it to get a rust proofing from the dealer. How overpriced are they usually?
Thanks.
Years ago (20+), I had a vehicle "Ziebarted" where they drilled the holes. Although I never had a problem with rust, there was a mess on the trunk lid and the wheel wells in the trunk where their rustproofing leaked out.
I live in the Chgo area and have not "rustproofed" the last 4 vehicles we have owned and have not had any rust problems.
Ron
1. Carry chains. Even if you never use them you may be required to show that you have them.
2. The "snow tire" regulation is "mud and snow tire", otherwise labeled M&S. Virtually every all-season tire in existence carries this label. Check your tires. (That being said, true winter tires will be far, far better in snow than any all-season tire.)
3. A Subie shod at least with all-season tires and also carrying chains in the trunk will be allowed through any road that has not been closed completely.
Cheers,
-wdb
Cheers Pat.
I have searched for repair manuals such as the Hayes. I cannot find anything at all for the legacy/Outback 2000 or 2001. The most recent I found is up to 99. However that does not include the 2.5 litre engine. Anyone have a repair manual??? Thanks!
More importantly, what is your dealer doing charging you for brake lubes on a "normal" condition? Sounds like a rip-off to me. I hadn't noticed any built-in money sinks like that in my car, but it sounds like you've got one. Next thing you know, they'll start telling you to bring the car in for regular vent cleaning or some cockamammey thing like that. Don't buy it! Just get yourself a cat and watch this problem disappear...
Halfback
In my case, and most that I've heard of, you can expect mileage to improve with age. And I'm talking 15k miles, not 3k miles.
Don't sweat price. Enjoy driving your Soob. Hope it gives you great memories.
-juice
They said the brake squeak was "normal" and that they would lube and clean the pads this time for free, but I would be charged to do it in the future. He tried to tell me this noise was normal for all cars, which I know is bogus since this is my 4th car and I've never once heard a brake squeak in my life!
The clicking sound when shifting into 2nd gear was supposedly caused by dry shifter rods, which they lubed, but I'm still getting the same clicking noise!
My allignment was off, (pulled to the left), so they adjusted the tire pressure and rotated the tires (criss crossed), and it has definitely improved.
They said only cables would fit on the Outback, and that I shouldn't need them, but should carry them with me when heading into snow country. My factory tires, Wilderness Firestone, do not say M&S on them anywhere.
They couldn't reproduce the steering wheel noise, so I'll have to bring it back in when it's making the noise.
--ShoobSube
Is anyone familiar with this problem and/or know possible solutions?
Last four cars I have had from new have definitely improved fuel economy over time. VW's are well known for it as also for performance improving after about 15000 miles.
My Outback took about 25000km or about 16000 miles for fuel economy to stabilize down with overall improvement of about 10%.
We really need a mechanical engineer posting on this site to explain why this happens.
Cheers
Graham
Any new mechanical device has a certain amount of interference between components. For a car, there is interference between the gears, bearings, oil seals, valves, etc. The most friction comes in the engine from the cylinder liners and piston rings. As the car gets broken-in, the parts wear slightly and mesh smoother, resulting in less gas robbing friction. Unfortunately, after more time excessive wear occurs and mileage may drop while oil consumption increases.
My two cents.
MikeF
1. Pry off the switch cover from the top with a covered screw driver- disconnect the wires and remove the cover. Remove the hidden screw.
2. Pop off the small cover on the arm rest and remove the screw.
3. Remove cover from inside the door handle fitting and remove screw.
4. Pry off the door handle surround (this can be a bit stiff but if you push the bottom section down it will come off.
5. Grab the panel under the weather stripping and gently pry it off. Then the panel should simply lift up and away.
6. The Tweeters on the front doors need to be popped off prior to the above.
Have fun
ShoobSube: the OE Subaru oil filter unit is made by Purolator, so presumably those would be identical. However, given you can get OE filters with drain plug gaskets for $4 from Darlene, I don't see why not just go OE.
Her number is 800-287-1281.
-juice
Any thoughts?
FWIW, Fitzgerald's prices include freight.
If you have the discipline not to spend the money, keep it in the higher yield account. Make sure to account for taxes on interest earned, though.
-juice
The price you indicate you can buy an LL Bean, delivery included, ($27,388) is probably just below dealer invoice, assuming the MSRP figure of $30,920 includes a few "options." If you feel the dealer is "good" and the service will be what you'd expect, I'd say you have more than a fair price! And, you are correct to consider 3.9% financing when you can earn above 5% in a money market.
I have an LL Bean wagon and enjoy it very much. Compared to the '96 Outback I traded in, the '01 is better in many, many ways. And, I had NO problems with the '96 or my '92 SVX before that!
Good luck with your endeavor.
Don
What I was trying to do was use Thomason as a low ball price and try to get Bud Clary to match it. In any case my wife likes the salesman at Bud Clary so it would be nice to buy there. And also that is where I would take it for service (even tho that wouldn't matter regarding the warranty.
I guess the only thing I have been holding off for was the remote possibility of a factory rebate. Don't really hold out much hope for that tho since the economy is not going in the tank at the rate I predicted (that's a good thing, right?) Well the old Honda still runs like a top so we don't have to be in a rush.
I would like to express my appreciation for all the great posts and especially for the civility on this board. It's like a breath of fresh air after visiting the stock boards.
Guy
Bob
Who is this Darlene you keep mentioning? It seems you go to her for parts??? Who is she , where does she work? And is this where you get your parts? As for the oil filter, there is plenty of aftermarket filters that have the same features of the originals. I worked in an autoparts store for a very long time. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff that sometimes is better than originals!! I would say you would have to know your brands for different products. Like never use champion spark plugs on a Japanese car. It may seem stupid but you would be amazed how many do that. Also, aftermarket products sometimes carry better warranty! Bendix brakes have lifetime warranty and so do monroe shocks! If you do it yourself and plan to keep car long it may be worth it!
check out www.crutchfield.com the size of speaker is six and a half inchs,you can almost always get better quality in the aftermarket for less money.
Cheers Pat.
Tom
It took me a while to come around but I finally got a fairly lengthy test drive in the H6. Driving on I-5 did the trick. I have a '91 honda accord wagon and I felt it could outrun the H4 (might have been my imagination) The traffic flows about 75 to 80 on I-5 and at that speed the H6 is so quite its disconcerting. I told my wife if I don't use cruise control I'm going to find myself explaining a 90MPH ticket. It just silently creeps up on you if you don't pay attention. My wife wants a white one and one is coming so I will probably buy when it arrives.
I was dissapointed to find out the 30k checkup isn't covered under the LLB freebie. however the service department told me there is very little to do at 30k anyway so it doesn't about to the 400+ that I have been hearing.
Anyway we have a trip down the Oregon coast next month so hope we will have the new ride to try out.
Guy
There is a new "*" (snow flake) that will start appearing on tires, and that will actually mean something. The Firestones are not that good in snow, from what I've heard.
Darlene is a wholesale supplier who works for Quality Subaru in TN. I shopped around a lot and always ended up buying from her because her prices were the best. I ended up helping her put up a web site to expand her marketing beyond just the TN area.
She sells oil filters for $4 and ships them to your door for free. That includes the washer. That's what cheap Fram filters cost, and those are said to be constructed cheaply. There are good ones, but if the price is not higher, why not go OE?
She's got touch-up paint for $4. Her cargo net is actually less than the cheap imitation I got at Wal Mart! DOH!~
So yeah, she's become my exclusive supplier, and I am happy with her service.
My 2 cents.
-juice
I loved the coupe. It was a black model and looked wonderful, especially when clean. As it was one of the first in the area, I got more than my share of stares, especially when people looked at the windows. I did get used to that design although it was a pain when going through the toll booths! Life can be full of compromises!
The car cruised effortlessly in the upper ranges. Adults could actually sit in the back seats for short distances. The technical innovations were great and I did like the rain sensitive windshield wipers. Gas mileage was also great and on one highway run I did manage well over 30 mpg. Not too bad for a car that weighed in at 3600 lbs plus!
Other than having to replace the driver's window switch (which had an automatic UP and Down) at 37,000 miles--done as a warranty courtesy--I had absolutely no trouble. I never experienced tranny trouble but then, I traded the car with 55,000 miles for an Outback in September of '95 (a 2.5 wagon). My reason for getting rid of the SVX was I wanted a car that could be fitted with a secure bicycle rack which does mean a roof rack. Due to the window design, this was impossible on the SVX. I do a lot of bicycling and I have a good sum tied up in my road bike. When traveling on the expressway with the bike fastened to a "bumper-trunk-lid rack" I noticed the bike and the rack swaying at 70 mph. That was enough!
Am I sorry I sold the SVX? If I had the space and unlimited funds, I'd still own it. But then, I'd still own my '74 Alfa Romeo GTV coupe.
Thanks for asking.
Don