Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have an easy solution - hand wash your Subies!

    C'mon, they deserve it, and it's good exercise. OCD Club members find it soothing. ;-)

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    on the car washes I've been through.

    -mike
  • senturisenturi Member Posts: 27
    This is a real concern if you must wash your Outback at a car wash. The car wash that I use has a track which moves the car along a short distance through the wash. They always inform you to put the vehicle in neutral before going through.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    At least for any of the several subaru AWD vehicles in my family, they all get washed at least 2x a month @ an automatic car wash.

    -mike
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    The majority of car washes out here (Phoenix, AZ) have you drive in, where you sit (or park) while the spray or brushes move around. When done you drive out. The vehicle isn't pulled through.

    I think the car wash chains may have the system that pulls you through but I'm too cheap to use those! I had wash our Subie and run the POS Saturn through the car wash.

    Steve
  • breckcobreckco Member Posts: 62
    I'm about to install a hitch on our 03 OB and I'm deciding between the draw-tite and the hidden hitch. I'm glad both are available in classII ratings as I need to use a Yakima 1 1/4" 4 bike hitch rack.

    Has anyone installed either hitch? How was install and appearance?

    Chris
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    I installed the Hidden Hitch myself - not too difficult at all. There was no need to cut the rear valance (bumper cover) at all, which is a plus. The receiver sits very close under the valance panel and is not very noticeable. I did not do a comparo against the Draw-Tight

    You'll need a wiring adaptor too, it includes some sort of relay. It plugs right in to the OEM wiring harness (located behind the passenger-side interior trim panel in the rear compartment).
  • jim255jim255 Member Posts: 4
    I am going to install snow tires on my 02 Outback wagon, but the factory tires are speed rated H (130 mph), and the tires I can afford are rated Q (99 mph). Has anyone had experience doing this, and will it significantly change the handling characteristics of the vehicle? I am considering Bridgestone Blizzaks, and Dunlop Graspics. Also, Subaru recommends using P215 tires instead of P225's to eliminate rubbing on sharp turns. Will this screw up anything other than making the odometer and speedometer accuracy even worse than it is now?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    FWIW, I've seen both Hidden Hitch and Draw Tite hitches on Subies, and both looked fine, with happy owners.

    Q rated should be fine for snow tires. The Q is a speed rating, really a rating of resistance to heat build up at high speeds. But you drive with snow tires in cold weather, so tire temps are much lower. Q is fine.

    But I would stick with 225s, because 215s will lose you some critical-in-winter ground clearance. When snow accumulates, you'll be happy not to bottom out or scrape ice and slush.

    -juice
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    ..since I've visited Edmunds. It sure has changed.

    Anyway, any new on up and coming Outbacks? Mine is a 00, nearing 3 years old, and I will be looking for a new vehicle in latter part of 2003.

    Luck 11.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    MY2004 will have a couple of very intersting new choices - the WRX STi and the Forester turbo.

    The STi will be hard to find, but hyper-powerful and fun.

    The Forester is rumored to get a 2.5l turbo. Lots of speculation about this motor, actually. At first I thought it would get the 2.0l 217hp version from the JDM. But reports insist it'll be 2.5l.

    So then will it be a turbo version of the EJ25? Some rumors on i-club say no - it would be hard to manage cooling with the large bore of those cylinders. That led to another conspiracy theory - a de-bored version of the EZ30 H6 engine, displacing maybe 2.5l, with a turbo.

    Can you imagine, a turbo H6?

    -juice
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    the other thing to consider is that its usually better to have a narrower tire to go through snow, sounds counterintuitive but higher pressure on your tires contact patch means more traction and also narrower means less "plowing" through the snow.Tirerack always recommends a narrower tire for cars with fat tires.Unfortunately there aren't many 16in snowtires less than 205 section width!
    I have run Q rated blizzaks and arctic alpins on my legacies for just over 10 years now, no problems at all unless you want to drive like a madman in winter!
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Subaru recommends the narrower tire for winter due to the reasons CPTPLT mentions - better traction on snow, slush, standing water and all three together. The rubbing must be some dealer service manager's theory?

    Anyhow, regarding tires and the speedo. What matters is the overall tire diameter, not the width (205, 215, etc). If you're moving from a 215/60 for instance, you can get a 205/70 that's the same size (I'm guessing, but you can go to TireRack's website and look under your current tire's specs, then go to the tire you want in a 205 and see what aspect ratio (65, 70, 75) you'll need to preserve the same diameter. The diameters are all there in the spec section. You can also do the math yourself, but this is easier.

    So, simply get the proper taller sidewalls and narrower tread to preserve the speedo accuracy. You can expect a bit less precision in handling due to the taller sidewalls and the softer winter compound, but today's winter tires are worlds better than the snow tires of old for handling.

    IdahoDoug
  • ironsides1ironsides1 Member Posts: 30
    The recommendation of the 215 vs 225 was a notice from Subaru to dealers. It referred specifically to the Blizzak WS-50 due to the height of the aggressive snow tread. Height of the 215 with this tread will be the same height as the all season 225. The Blizzak WS-50 225 has caused rubbing problems. The Blizzak LM-18 in 225 is H rated and will fit without any problems due to the lower tread design. I successfully used this tire last year on our '00 OB. It is a higher priced tire, however it runs very well on dry pavement while still providing excellent traction on ice and snow.

    Jon
  • hashmanhashman Member Posts: 33
    Just purchased 00' OB with winter options, 36K miles, winter pkg, excellent condition (probably a lease return). Going through maintenece check. Brakes feel a little mushy (4 wheel disc). Have any or you (Subie owners)find to replace pads a lot? Thank goodness there disc....hate working on drums. You think extended warranty is advisable? I think it needs alignment, pulls to the right under acceleration and left when braking and straight not doing anything. Interesting good discussions. Thanks.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    and congrats on your 2000 Outback purchase!

    You may also want to check out our ongoing Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair and Legacy/Outback Wagons - Problems & Solutions discussions. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your ownership experience. ;-)


    Revka

    Host

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If you really want a more narrow tire, I would go with a taller profile so as not to lose ground clearance. 205/65R16 has about the same diameter as stock. Or 215/65R16, which adds 0.2" extra clearance.


    I'm not sure if they make those sizes, though.


    Use this tire size calculator if you're trying to decide what size to get:


    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html


    Congrats, hashman. Time to update your profile, which says you still drive a Buick.


    The brakes have a dual stage booster that take some getting used to. It's soft at first, for smooth stops, then the 2nd one kicks in for max braking power. The stopping distances are very good, though.


    Do get the alignment, but have them inspect your brake rotors too. They could be warped if it pulls to one side while braking.


    -juice

  • hashmanhashman Member Posts: 33
    Update profile...I thought warped rotors would pulsate when applying brakes? or even vibrate when turning. How about if one of four brake pulls? Any way will check it out and get an alignment. Thanks.
  • ray_cray_c Member Posts: 36
    Hi,

    Does anyone know where I can't order some plastic cladding for the back door? Don’t laugh but my wife backs our 2001 Outback into my truck and knock off the plastic on the bottom of the back door. I was thinking of just put the old one back on but there are too many creaks in it.

    Thanks,

    Ray
  • wired1wired1 Member Posts: 45
    It's been a while since I've posted. Frankly I've been out enjoying my '02 Wintergreen Outback. Here's proof:
    Purchased: May 31, 2002
    Just had: My 7500 mi. dealer service
    Gotta go!
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I ran to Denver and back in the '97 Legacy and thought you'd enjoy some observations. I have only taken one other road trip since buying it with 23k miles on it, and that was with the original owner's conventional oils and OEM tires. I got 23.7 MPG on that other trip at 83mph. I switched the diffs and engine to synthetic, put on top quality Michelins and got the exact same mileage running to Denver and back. I'm kinda bummed - was hoping for a couple more MPG. I guess at a steady 83 the wind resistance is such a huge factor that a slight friction reduction is just back ground noise. I drive nonstop and averaged 81MPH including gas stops with the clock running.

    I was there for 30 hours before returning. Spent under $200 for gas and eats vs a flight that would have been $550 and required a rental car and airport parking for a total over $650.

    Great trip, clear weather and little wind the entire trip. The only "event" was a startling bird hit on the roof's front edge at 3am on the way home that scared the crap out of me. I flinched at seeing it, then the impact right above my head sounded like it dented the metal. No damage.

    IdahoDoug
  • self_mechanicself_mechanic Member Posts: 95
    I am averaging 21.4 miles per gallon for my 02 Bean. My commute is some stop and go during commute hour. Overall I put in 106.4 gallons for driving 2283 mile. I kept all my gas receipt. I basically use Costco brand super unleaded. Seems to be the best price around town, currently $1.49 per gallon.

    Alland
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    Hi all,

    The topic has been beaten to death, but hasn't gone away. As it gets colder up here in Wisconsin, the cold clutch shudder on my '02 base is getting worse - to the point I no longer look forward to driving it. The dealer, zone, and 1-800 Subaru customer service all acknowledge a problem; I even have a case number.

    But no one can tell me when they expect a fix for this. I also have a Miata. Mazda has a TSB for this - they replace all the clutch components with updated part #'s. So far the Miata is fine. If Mazda can do it, why can't Subaru???

    Any strategies for prodding SOA into action? Or just live with it, and be patient? BTW, just turned 6k miles, and love the car otherwise, but this clutch thing is spoiling my experience.

    David
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    David, you're in for a long battle that you probably won't win. I've been dealing with a shuddering that is incredibly violent for almost 2 years with my 01 Outback. The dealer says it's normal for the car due to the "Kevlar clutch" material...whatever...it's disgraceful that a company would put such a tempermental clutch in their cars and call it normal. Some subies have perfect drivetrains, others have mild shuddering, and then there is mine -- the one that shakes so bad at times that it seems as if the windows are going to shatter.

    I called the 1-800 number last year and started a case file, but there has not yet been a resolution. I need to call again and see if they will send someone out to look at it...my dealer is totally apathetic to the situation. I was in yesterday and brought it up again and the service tech told me there was nothing they would do now that the car has almost 40K on it...even though the problem was documented since the car was new, and in spite of the 60K powertrain warranty and the 100K extended warranty I have. I just shook my head and left.

    Good luck, and start saving your pennies to go buy an aftermarket clutch. I'm to the point of shelling out about $600 to have a non-subaru clutch put in to see if it helps the situation.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ray: I found the best prices for my accessories at parts@libertysubaru.com, try them.

    Doug: now that's a road trip. I just went to the beach and back, about 150 miles each way.

    Alland: not bad at all for a 6 cylinder AWD. In fact that's about 50% better than the average SUV.

    Dave: I didn't realize Miatas had this problem, my '93 is fine (original). I guess some do, some don't?

    If yours is an '02, it may have all the latest part numbers. I wish I could help more.

    FYI: Ludespeed's clutch is $460 for parts, but that is designed to withstand even turbo applications.

    -juice
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    bkaiser -

    My dealer and the 1-800 folks have acknowledged there is a problem, and they say they're working on a fix. Before settling for an aftermarket clutch, call the 800 number and have them update your case. With a documented 'in warranty' complaint, they should fix it (as soon as they have a fix). The zone can force your dealer to take care of it for you.

    ateixeira -

    My Miata is an '02. The TSB is for '01's and '02's within a specific VIN range. Mine is in it, but (so far) the clutch is fine. I wish SOA would be as proactive in satisfying their 5-speed customers.

    David
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if it's the same clutch, just with more weight and more torque to deal with. The Miata has gained both gradually. My lighter, less powerful '93 is smooth as buttah.

    -juice
  • web3web3 Member Posts: 10
    I have an 02 OB with the shuddering clutch. I bought the 5spd for the 50-50 split of the awd, over the wife's objections, she wanted an auto. Other than the poor clutch the car is great. It's sad and embarrassing to have to tell people riding with you that this is normal. The problem isn't isolated to the Legacy either. If you go to the i-club site there are plenty of posts about the same problems with the Impreza. So far no help from Subaru. The dealer has acknowledged the problem but Subaru told him it was normal. I started a file with SOA. Most states have Lemon Laws so keep complaining take notes and keep all the documentation you can.
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    This past weekend I rented an '02 Outback wagon and was quite impressed with it. This was my first experience with a Subaru in at least eight or ten years. I own a Tahoe (for the utility) and a Bonneville (for the sport) and thought that if I had to combine the two into a single vehicle the Outback might be something to consider. I especially like the AWD (I guess GM's closest competitor is the Vibe?). Even for a rental with 11K miles it ran true and vibration/rattle-free, had just enough power, was comfortable if a bit on the small side, and seemed to have all the right features. The steering was tight, the ride was sprung just right, the cabin was quiet at all speeds, and all our luggage fit snugly in the rear. Biggest complaint was the operation of the factory radio (something easily upgraded). I do have a concern with the long-term integrity of the window seal with the frameless doors, and a couple of times when getting in and out of the car it seemed like the door was sagging just a bit (noticable when closing). This car had no sunroof and I would want one so I'd be interested in how that is. I'll say this: in upstate New York, it seems like every third car is a Subaru wagon of some sort!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    VT is the biggest Subaru state. They have 6% market share, vs. just 0.4% in the Sun Belt. Those in the snow, know.

    The NE is generally a pretty good market for them.

    The frameless doors are fine. The M3 and 911 use them, too. Look closely and you'll find they are double sealed, so even if water gets by the first seal, there is a channel to let the water drain out. My 1300psi pressure washer has never caused a leak.

    Not many people have complained about sagging doors, maybe it's just an abused rental?

    Any Subaru radio will fit, and you'll find plenty of 6CD changers on E-bay for $250 or less. I bought two, so both our Subies have a cassette AND a 6CD in-dash, hard to beat.

    Both our Forester and our Legacy average 25 mpg overall, and neither one broke the $20k price barrier.

    -juice
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    Having lived in Massachusetts most of my life (now in steamy Florida) I recall how Vermont was the Subaru capital. In fact, the rental even had Vermont plates!

    I forgot to mention that I got about 24 mpg over several hundred miles, which is of course better than the 16 I get in the Tahoe (that's in 2WD mode) and the 20 or so I get in the supercharged Bonnie (it should be a few points higher, but for some reason it isn't).

    As far as the window seals, I think about GM products like the Eldorado that have traditionally had problems, but if the Subaru can withstand 1300 psi I guess that's pretty good. But what about when it's zero degrees out and the seals are rock solid?
  • sharonjosharonjo Member Posts: 1
    My'00 outback lt edition has a leak? After sitting in rain and then driven- water pours out of roof openings in back of car( one where seat belt comes out of)- anyone know what this is??
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    on my 4th subaru since 92, living in MN and now IL, the frameless window seals are not a problem for water leaks or low temp problems. One car did have wind noise which required you to put the window down and back up again after the door had been opened and closed, that was after 75K miles and the original windshield had been replaced after getting a hit from a rather large rock and they had taken the seals off the front window during the replacement (and obviously not got it back exactly right after!).
  • bravadajonbravadajon Member Posts: 60
    Hello fellow Subie fans,

    I just traded off a problematic 2002 Olds Bravada(hence my login name) for a 2003 LLBean Outback Wagon. I know I can trust Subura for AWD. I have owned a Forrester and GL Wagon in the past. The GL had that pull up lever in the center console that would lock in the 4WD...it would pull like a tractor...a small tractor that is in 4WDlo. That Olds SmartTrac system sucks. I gave the the group a going over about AWD before I signed off..some of the folks joined in and agreed with me that Subaru is the king of AWD.

    The triplet town hall site (Trailblazer, Bravada, Envoy) is filled with horror stories about these vehicles.

    'Getting used to the smaller surrounds in the Outback but almost all the goodies as the Olds...and they work.
    I like the dual moon roofs. The rear spoiler does create some wind noise...or is it the roof rack rails. The use of 91 octane gas caught me by surprise.

    The 3.0L engine is great....much more pep up to 40mph, but not a race car in passing on the interstate.

    That's my story...I need to change my login name to make it more Subaru related.

    I know GM owns ~20% of Fuji Heavy Industries. I hope their influence does not compromise the Subaru quality. This Olds Bravada experience has left me negative on GM products. I should of known better....my first car at age 16 was a Chevy Vega.

    SubieJon...I'll try that
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Keep your screen name; most of us have screen names that are remotely related to Subies. :D

    So tell us more 'bout your new pride and joy.
    Colour? Any nice goodies?...

    -Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Never had a leak in either of my XT6s which were coupes with big doors and were 10-13 years old with 100K-130K miles. I wouldn't worry about the door seals, at least not til you hit 10+ years old on the subaru.

    -mike
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    not sure if this belongs here but I was getting my brakes checked at my local independent Sube garage when the mechanic said some guy wanted him to take the standard auto tranny out of a SVX and drop a manual in. He was still pricing things out, but thought about 4K would do the job!Anyone heard of anything else like this?
    Also talked a little about the infamous Sube clutch shudder some people have had, he said he had seen some flywheels which needed replacing which fixed the problem.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yes there is a kit out now for $2900 that will convert it over to a 5MT. So figure another $1000 for labor and you've got yourself a 5MT SVX that will probably kick the butt off of the WRX :) The kit is complete with everything you need (pedals, cross member, hydrolic cylinder, etc) When my tranny blows that will be on the list.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    20 mpg? Maybe you're enjoying that supercharger in the Bonnie a bit too much? ;-)

    Sharon: do you have a moonroof? Maybe the drains are clogged.

    Subiejon: welcome back to the Subaru fold. Nice to hear Subaru's AWD is superior even to systems in much costlier trucks.

    I've sampled a Rendezvous, and wonder if that's the same SmartTrak system. Thing is - it feels like FWD, and works like FWD 99% of the time. I want power to both axles all the time, true full-time AWD.

    You can use 87 octane with the H6, it'll just make 208hp instead of 212hp. The knock sensor retards timing automatically, if necessary.

    You and me both (about GM not having too much influence on Subaru). I hope GM provides the capital and maybe, just maybe, the purchasing network.

    paisan: your tranny probably won't blow now that you've installed a tranny cooler. Though as quick as you drive, all bets are off!

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We'll see how it works @ lime rock in 3 weeks :)

    Hopefully I'll be giving the WRXs a run for their $ :)

    -mike
  • williamsjwwilliamsjw Member Posts: 4
    I recently purchased a used '01 VDC Wagon (my first subaru). The vehicle was very clean but did have high miles (57K). I have put about 5K on the car so far and have been very impressed with almost every aspect of the Outback. The ride is very quiet and smooth, the H6 delivers ample power to pull the grades up to Tahoe, the fuel ecomomy has lived up to expectation (26.5 mpg highway) and the McIntosh stereo is awesome, albeit a bit retro. Also, I've been following the discussion about the coolant loss in some of the H6 engines and at this point have not seen any coolant loss in mine, however, I'll keep monitoring it. Unfortunately, I have found a problem with the paint. My Outback has the wintergreen/titanium pearl paint combination and I recently noticed significant crazing in the wintergreen paint alont the leading edges of the hood and the left and right quarterpanals (right along the headlights). The crazing is difficult to see unless I look closely (I missed it when I was inspecting the car at the dealer). I thought this might be a problem with just my vehicle, but I have looked at a few other wintergreen subarus and seen the exact same thing. I was wondering if any owners of wintergreen subarus have noticed problems with their paint? I reported this finding to SOA and they said they are unaware of any problems with the wintergreen color.

    Jeff
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If after 62k your coolant hasn't been an issue, I doubt it ever will.

    Congrats. Those must've been highway miles, unless the previous owner used it as a taxi! ;-)

    Jeff: we have a Wintergreen Legacy L, in fact it's not two-tone so we have about twice as much of that color paint as you. I haven't notice anything (we bought it in May), nor have I heard anything from others (I asked how others liked the color before I purchased it).

    I actually like the color a lot, it's easy to clean, and never looks dirty. I wash my Acadia Green Forester and the Legacy on the same day, and a week later the Forester looks filthy, while the wife's car still looks clean. No regrets.

    You think the previous owners might have buffed the finish a little too hard? Or gone through too many car washes with brushes?

    -juice
  • williamsjwwilliamsjw Member Posts: 4
    Juice - Thanks for your comments. The previous owner did have a pretty serious commute... all highway miles fortunately. Anyhow, I feel the same way about the color - easy on the eyes and looks clean for a long time. Really nice! I'm not sure about the previous owner's method or frequency of cleaning but I think you have an excellent point about over-buffing or washing. Still, I am concerned that I've seen this on other wintergreen subarus and in the exact same place: right along the leading edge of the hood. It really is subtle so I seriously doubt it would be noticed unless you were looking for it.
    Any suggestions on how to minimize any further crazing?

    Cheers,
    Jeff
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You might want to get a wind deflector or those clear stick-on covers (XPel or something?).

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Is that similar to a swirl mark? I guess I'm not familiar with that term. My dark blue 01 OB has something weird going on with the paint on the hood and driver's side panels. It's hard to describe...it sort of looks like the paint is cracking, but in uniform 1/4 inch "cracks." I would guess there are about 7-10 per square inch over the hood and side.

    I can feel them with my fingernail, but they are not visible from afar. Each time I wax the car, which is about every 2 months, it seems like the cancer is spreading. I don't know if it's the clearcoat or if the flaws go all the way down, but I'm starting to get concerned.

    Also, has anyone's plasti-chrome grilles started flaking off? Mine started bubbling last year and is getting worse...I think this winter will do it in and the "chrome" will flake off the grill. It, too, is spreading...it started in one little bubble on the grill and has spread to most of the lower horizontal part of the grill. Just bubbles now, but will likely get worse.

    I think I'd like the Legacy L grill on mine if I replace it...the black looks better to me than chrome anyway! If the extended warranty covers this, I'll be surprised...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, was either of your cars ever in an accident? Resprays tend to crack and peel.

    You can paint the chrome grille, one of the Crew members did that and I actually kind of liked it in the flat black he used.

    -juice
  • williamsjwwilliamsjw Member Posts: 4
    I should have defined "crazing". It is exactly as you have decribed - small uniform cracks in the paint. It is desirable in some types of finishes (pottery, antiques and such) but not on your car! Are you still under the 36K/3yr warranty? Might want to have your local dealer have a look.
    Juice: No accidents listed on the title search and no evidence of repainting. Far as I can tell the car is clean.

    Jeff
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll admit I didn't know exactly what you meant, either.

    I had some "crazing" on my repainted Escort, a couple of years after an accident. The clear coat eventually peeled.

    The car was totalled before I went back to the body shop, which may or may not have done anything about it.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    That's interesting that your paint is doing the same thing...it's very noticable to me, but no one else has seen it until I point it out. FWIW, it's the original paint (no accidents) and I first noticed it cropping up in the first year of owning the car...I really should have let the dealer know, but I kept forgetting about it when it went in for service. Now the car's 22 months old, and out of the 3/36 warranty, so I'm sure it's not going to get fixed. Perhaps under the 100K warranty that I have, but I doubt it.

    My dealer has been totally apathetic about every problem this car has had (faulty clutch, 2 new window regulators, etc) that I have no faith that they would even care about the paint. "They're all like that" is what I can expect to hear!

    I thought about letting an independent paint shop look at it to diagnose the situation -- I can live with crazing (or whatever this is) as long as the paint doesn't start coming off or rusting. Now that I see I'm not alone with this, I may take it in to get looked at and I'll keep you posted.

    Brian
  • williamsjwwilliamsjw Member Posts: 4
    Hi Brian - Seems to me the paint should be pretty much flawless at just 22 months. I too can live with the minor cosmetic problem... I just hope it doesn't progress. I recently showed the car to the service manager at the dealership where I purchased the car and he said it would likely be taken care of by the warranty were the car still under the 3/36. I will say that the service from my local dealer has been exemplary. They have replaced a control module, seat belt, seat heater switch, and rear sunshade at no cost to me. Sorry to hear about your dealer woes. You might want to report your paint problem to SOA directly.

    I'm also planning to go to a local body shop to see if they have any suggestions. If I find out anything I'll post it here.

    Jeff
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